Friday, January 30, 2009

Keep Your Yard Ornamental With Sago Palm Care

Author: Adam Peters

Article: Proper Sago Palm care is essential for a beautiful looking plant. The Sago Palm tree, scientifically known as the Cycas revoluta, is one of the most primitive living seed plants. They are unusual ornamental plants that are very hardy. In the United States, they are typically found in warm moist climates like the Houston area. They are related to conifer trees. They are characterized by a rough trunk with light feathery leaves.

Sago Palms are one of the simplest plants to grow, whether indoors or out, no matter your level of gardening expertise. They live for an extremely long period of time, and are tolerant of many different temperatures, levels of sunlight, and types of care. There are several things to remember with Sago Palm care. Do not bother the plant as it new leaves emerge. Moreover, do not allow the plant to dry out during this time. While Sago Palms are quite tolerant, temperatures too high or too low can damage the plant. The growth rate for a Sago Palm is very slow. Most only increase in size one inch per year.

+ While not difficult, sago palm care is essential for the maintenance and reproduction of your Cycas revoluta.

A part of Sago Palm care includes reproduction. Sago Palms are dioecious, which means there are both male and female plants. If you wish to propagate these plants, it is best to do it through hand pollination techniques. May is pollination season. The female seed is ready to be removed in January or February. Once removed, you should place the seed in water for a number of days. Take off the red covering, but do not remove the hard white coat. You can then plant the seed or hold it until spring. The seed must be planted sideways. Do not expose more than the top edge in moist soil. If the soil gets soggy, you might have problems growing your Sago Palm. The seed will usually begin to sprout in three months, but it will require several years to reach more than one inch in height. An excellent way to propagate Sago Palms without hand pollination is to remove an offset of a healthy Sago Palm by popping it off gently with a small shovel. It should be allowed to dry for at least a week. It should then be planted and well watered.

+ A beautiful looking plant can only be achieved through proper Sago Palm Care.

Sago Palms make lovely plants. It is important to remember, though, that proper Sago Palm care, while not difficult, is essential to the life of the plant.

About the author: Adam Peters writes regularly for http://www.home-decorating-reviews.com. Peters contributes adding reviews very often on decorating and design topics. You can also reach interesting articles on the latest trends in gardening and plant care for interior and outdoors decorations at http://www.home-decorating-reviews.com/sago-palm-care.html

Thursday, January 29, 2009

Planting Instructions for Small Nursery Stock

Author: Bill Hirst

Article: Planting Instructions for Small Nursery Stock

Many people with great soils and perfect weather conditions will still have problems planting nursery stock. There can be 100 reasons why the plants fail. There is only one reason why they survive. That is they know what they are doing. Hopefully you will be able to improve your planting abilities after reading this article.

Planting a tree or shrub is not as easy as, ""Green side up...brown side down"". Care must be taken from selection, transporting,locating a spot, checking for utilities, plant tolerances for shade,zone rating of the plant for your area,instillation, and care after planting. Each area has special requirements that influence the outcome of your work.

All people handling seedlings and small trees need to help with the life support of your plants. Seedlings are like fish out of water and need care which is often overlooked between the time the seedlings are lifted and transplanted. Improper care means higher mortality. Do not try and reinvent the wheel. You must protect seedling from moisture and temperature extremes, as well as physical damage. Trees and plants are living and should be handled carefully just as you would a baby.. For a higher survival rate, treat trees carefully and plant them immediately. I like to have a backup plan for planting if the weather turns bad. I will sometimes switch from lining out the seedlings to potting them up if I realize that the soil conditions will not be right for an extended lenght of time. If planting must be delayed a few days, keep the plants in a cold, protected place with air circulation between the trees. Keep the trees out of the rain and wind. To check if the trees need water, feel the media at the roots.. If it isn't damp, water the trees and allow the excess water to drain. In cool, damp weather, the biggest threat to these trees is from mold. Try to keep out of soil seedlings moist by either restricting water loss with a water vapor barrier or by wetting the roots at regular intervals. While handling or planting try to reduce temperature and air movement around the seedlings. Windy days can dry out seedlings so consider waiting for calmer weather. Once your soil conditions are correct OUR FREE USE PLANTERS will make planting a snap so its will be worth waiting for good planting conditions.

HOW TO PLANT

Ideal planting days are cool and cloudy with little or no wind. If possible, avoid planting on warm, windy days. The soil should be moist not wet. Care in planting is more important than speed. Make sure the roots are never allowed to become dry. Bare root seedlings should be carried in a waterproof bag or bucket with plenty of moist material packed around the roots to keep them damp. Ideally, bare root boxes should be kept refrigerated or packed in ice or snow. Don't freeze the trees. Competition from weeds, grass, brush or other trees is very detrimental to survival and growth of seedlings. Choose areas free from this competition or clear at least a three-foot square bare spot before planting. Seedlings should not be planted under the crown of existing trees, or closer than 6 feet to existing brush. Avoid areas near walnut trees. Brush aside loose organic material such as leaves, grass, etc., from the planting spot to expose mineral soil. If organic matter gets into the planting hole, it can decompose and leave air spaces. Roots will dry out when they grow into these spaces. Open up the hole, making sure the hole is deep enough for the roots to be fully extended. If roots are curled or bunched up, the tree will not be able to take up water correctly, will often weaken and die, or may blow down later due to poor root structure. Take a tree out of your planting bag or bucket only after a hole is ready. When exposed, the fine roots can dry out in as little as 30 seconds. Seedling shoots and roots lose water to air, roots require more protecting.Unlike leaves ,they do not have stomata (closeable openings on the surface of the leaves) or any waxy coatings to help reduce water loss. If the roots apear dry they are probably dead. Now I know you are thinking,""I will place them in a buckect of water and store them there until planting"". This will not work. Submerge plants for no longer that a couple of minutes. Placing them in water cuts them off from oxygen. Remember to remove the container before planting a containerized tree. A helpful hint to all those new gardeners just starting is to remember to always plant green side up. Hold the seedling in place in the hole, making sure the roots are straight, fully extended and that the tree is neither too shallow or too deep in the hole. Fill hole, allowing soil to fall in around the roots. Tamp with hands or with your heel. Don't crush the roots by jumping up and down around the seedling like there is a snake curled up around the seedling. It is delicate. Fill with more soil, if necessary, and tamp. Tamping is important. If soil is not firmly packed around the roots, there will be air pockets that can dry out the roots, and the seedlings may be weakly anchored. It is far easier to plant the tree strait up then have the tree leaning and have to staiten the tree later. (Addition of fertilizer and plant vitamins at the time of planting is not generally necessary.) Take your time in planting. Proper spacing will help you grow a more valuable crop. I have tried to get more production from a limited area by over planting and then thinning, but I always have had trouble in harvesting .... digging is slower and poor quality usually results for a portion of the crop. Avoid these tree planting errors:

Tangled roots Planting to shallow Planting to deep Air pockets Turned up roots (this is called J rooting) Planting trees that are not tolerant of wet soils in poorly drained areas Planting over rocks, septic tanks and leach fields, on sand mounds

CARE OF TREES FOLLOWING PLANTING Check periodically to be sure that brush, grass and other vegetation is kept under control by mowing, mulching, spraying or a combination of these treatments. Always obtain advice from a licensed pest control advisor before using chemicals. You ag extension agency may offer courses in application of chemicals. Monitoring the appearance of your trees will help you to detect signs of insects, diseases or other problems. Apperances also help sell your product. Look for foliage turning yellow, new foliage drooping or other signs of poor health. It is easier to take successful corrective action if the problem is detected early.

Over watering is a common problem in irrigated plantations. You probably won't need to water more frequently than every 7-10 days. Give your trees a thorough, deep soak and then let the soil dry out before the next watering. This encourages the roots to grow down in search of water. Frequent, shallow watering encourages root growth near the surface and the trees are more dependent on irrigation and are less windfirm. Animals can be a major cause of damage to young trees. Porcupines, gophers, mice, rabbits, deer and cattle are the most frequent source of damage. In many states you may have to call your game commission and get their recomendations on legal methods to protect your crop. In our state, you can get help from the Pa. Game Commission to kill deer that are a threat to your seedlings or obtain a free fence to keep deer away from your seedlings. Over the years we have lost more trees to mice than any other animal. Put rat baits out on a regular basis.

About the author: Bill has been growing trees and plants for 45 years. He gives simple tips and methods for correctly planting ornamentals. His home farm is in Doylestown Pa. which is 25 north of Philadelphia in Bucks County. His web sites include http://www.seedlingsrus.com http://www.zone5trees.com and http://www.highlandhillfarm.com His phone number is 215 651 8329

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

tips on how to plant herbs in your garden

Author: Yuan

Article: Herbs have been around since time immemorial and served different kinds of purposes. They have been used to treat illness and flavour cooking; they were even believed to have magical powers. Do you want to have your own herb garden? Here are a few ideas on how to establish an herb garden.Plan your garden.Consider the herbs you want to plant. Think about their types. Would you like annuals, biennials or perennials? How much space will they occupy in your garden? If you want, you can purchase a book that can give you the right information on what specific plants you are planning to grow. List or draw your garden on paper first. Separate the annuals from the perennials so when the time comes that you have to pull out the annuals, you won't be disturbing the perennials. Perennials can be planted on the edge of your garden so when it is time to till your garden they won't be in danger of getting dug up. Another thing to remember is that you have to plant the tall ones at the back and the shorter ones in front. Also, provide your plants with enough space to grow. Proper position shall help you in this area. If you would rather keep herbs out of your garden (and some are quite invasive) you could have herb pots. These are large containers with three or more outlets for the herbs. Fill the pot up to the first outlet and plant it before continuing on with the filling and planting process. Usually, the herb that requires the most water is planted in the bottom hole, while the variety that requires the least, goes in the highest hole. Some Design IdeasYou can consider having a square herb bed. You can have your square bed divided into four by two paths crossing at mid point measuring 3 feet. You can border it with stone or brick. A wooden ladder may also do the trick. You can lay it down on your garden and plant your herbs between its rungs. You can also choose to have a wagon wheel bed. Planting here is like planting with the wooden ladders. Plant your herbs in between the wagon wheel's wedges. Get Your Plants GrowingOf course, different plants have different needs, but many of them require alkaline soil. This is the reason why you have to determine the herbs you want to plant in the planning stage. This can more or less help you find out how you should care for your plants. If you germinate your herbs from seeds, remember to follow the directions on the packet for soil, watering and temperature. Herbs are some of the easiest plants to grow. You just have to provide them with an effective drainage, sunlight, enough humidity or moisture and fertile soil. Even with just minimally meeting these requirements they will be bound produce a good harvest. for similar / related articles, please visit <a href

About the author: Yuan is an onArticle.com author. onArticle.com consist of several people who dedicated to write in demand articles.