King Gardener

Keep Your Yard Ornamental With Sago Palm Care

2009-01-30T03:01:00.000-08:00

Author: Adam Peters

Article: Proper Sago Palm care is essential for a beautiful looking plant. The Sago Palm tree, scientifically known as the Cycas revoluta, is one of the most primitive living seed plants. They are unusual ornamental plants that are very hardy. In the United States, they are typically found in warm moist climates like the Houston area. They are related to conifer trees. They are characterized by a rough trunk with light feathery leaves.

Sago Palms are one of the simplest plants to grow, whether indoors or out, no matter your level of gardening expertise. They live for an extremely long period of time, and are tolerant of many different temperatures, levels of sunlight, and types of care. There are several things to remember with Sago Palm care. Do not bother the plant as it new leaves emerge. Moreover, do not allow the plant to dry out during this time. While Sago Palms are quite tolerant, temperatures too high or too low can damage the plant. The growth rate for a Sago Palm is very slow. Most only increase in size one inch per year.

+ While not difficult, sago palm care is essential for the maintenance and reproduction of your Cycas revoluta.

A part of Sago Palm care includes reproduction. Sago Palms are dioecious, which means there are both male and female plants. If you wish to propagate these plants, it is best to do it through hand pollination techniques. May is pollination season. The female seed is ready to be removed in January or February. Once removed, you should place the seed in water for a number of days. Take off the red covering, but do not remove the hard white coat. You can then plant the seed or hold it until spring. The seed must be planted sideways. Do not expose more than the top edge in moist soil. If the soil gets soggy, you might have problems growing your Sago Palm. The seed will usually begin to sprout in three months, but it will require several years to reach more than one inch in height. An excellent way to propagate Sago Palms without hand pollination is to remove an offset of a healthy Sago Palm by popping it off gently with a small shovel. It should be allowed to dry for at least a week. It should then be planted and well watered.

+ A beautiful looking plant can only be achieved through proper Sago Palm Care.

Sago Palms make lovely plants. It is important to remember, though, that proper Sago Palm care, while not difficult, is essential to the life of the plant.

About the author: Adam Peters writes regularly for http://www.home-decorating-reviews.com. Peters contributes adding reviews very often on decorating and design topics. You can also reach interesting articles on the latest trends in gardening and plant care for interior and outdoors decorations at http://www.home-decorating-reviews.com/sago-palm-care.html

Planting Instructions for Small Nursery Stock

2009-01-29T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: Bill Hirst

Article: Planting Instructions for Small Nursery Stock

Many people with great soils and perfect weather conditions will still have problems planting nursery stock. There can be 100 reasons why the plants fail. There is only one reason why they survive. That is they know what they are doing. Hopefully you will be able to improve your planting abilities after reading this article.

Planting a tree or shrub is not as easy as, ""Green side up...brown side down"". Care must be taken from selection, transporting,locating a spot, checking for utilities, plant tolerances for shade,zone rating of the plant for your area,instillation, and care after planting. Each area has special requirements that influence the outcome of your work.

All people handling seedlings and small trees need to help with the life support of your plants. Seedlings are like fish out of water and need care which is often overlooked between the time the seedlings are lifted and transplanted. Improper care means higher mortality. Do not try and reinvent the wheel. You must protect seedling from moisture and temperature extremes, as well as physical damage. Trees and plants are living and should be handled carefully just as you would a baby.. For a higher survival rate, treat trees carefully and plant them immediately. I like to have a backup plan for planting if the weather turns bad. I will sometimes switch from lining out the seedlings to potting them up if I realize that the soil conditions will not be right for an extended lenght of time. If planting must be delayed a few days, keep the plants in a cold, protected place with air circulation between the trees. Keep the trees out of the rain and wind. To check if the trees need water, feel the media at the roots.. If it isn't damp, water the trees and allow the excess water to drain. In cool, damp weather, the biggest threat to these trees is from mold. Try to keep out of soil seedlings moist by either restricting water loss with a water vapor barrier or by wetting the roots at regular intervals. While handling or planting try to reduce temperature and air movement around the seedlings. Windy days can dry out seedlings so consider waiting for calmer weather. Once your soil conditions are correct OUR FREE USE PLANTERS will make planting a snap so its will be worth waiting for good planting conditions.

HOW TO PLANT

Ideal planting days are cool and cloudy with little or no wind. If possible, avoid planting on warm, windy days. The soil should be moist not wet. Care in planting is more important than speed. Make sure the roots are never allowed to become dry. Bare root seedlings should be carried in a waterproof bag or bucket with plenty of moist material packed around the roots to keep them damp. Ideally, bare root boxes should be kept refrigerated or packed in ice or snow. Don't freeze the trees. Competition from weeds, grass, brush or other trees is very detrimental to survival and growth of seedlings. Choose areas free from this competition or clear at least a three-foot square bare spot before planting. Seedlings should not be planted under the crown of existing trees, or closer than 6 feet to existing brush. Avoid areas near walnut trees. Brush aside loose organic material such as leaves, grass, etc., from the planting spot to expose mineral soil. If organic matter gets into the planting hole, it can decompose and leave air spaces. Roots will dry out when they grow into these spaces. Open up the hole, making sure the hole is deep enough for the roots to be fully extended. If roots are curled or bunched up, the tree will not be able to take up water correctly, will often weaken and die, or may blow down later due to poor root structure. Take a tree out of your planting bag or bucket only after a hole is ready. When exposed, the fine roots can dry out in as little as 30 seconds. Seedling shoots and roots lose water to air, roots require more protecting.Unlike leaves ,they do not have stomata (closeable openings on the surface of the leaves) or any waxy coatings to help reduce water loss. If the roots apear dry they are probably dead. Now I know you are thinking,""I will place them in a buckect of water and store them there until planting"". This will not work. Submerge plants for no longer that a couple of minutes. Placing them in water cuts them off from oxygen. Remember to remove the container before planting a containerized tree. A helpful hint to all those new gardeners just starting is to remember to always plant green side up. Hold the seedling in place in the hole, making sure the roots are straight, fully extended and that the tree is neither too shallow or too deep in the hole. Fill hole, allowing soil to fall in around the roots. Tamp with hands or with your heel. Don't crush the roots by jumping up and down around the seedling like there is a snake curled up around the seedling. It is delicate. Fill with more soil, if necessary, and tamp. Tamping is important. If soil is not firmly packed around the roots, there will be air pockets that can dry out the roots, and the seedlings may be weakly anchored. It is far easier to plant the tree strait up then have the tree leaning and have to staiten the tree later. (Addition of fertilizer and plant vitamins at the time of planting is not generally necessary.) Take your time in planting. Proper spacing will help you grow a more valuable crop. I have tried to get more production from a limited area by over planting and then thinning, but I always have had trouble in harvesting .... digging is slower and poor quality usually results for a portion of the crop. Avoid these tree planting errors:

Tangled roots Planting to shallow Planting to deep Air pockets Turned up roots (this is called J rooting) Planting trees that are not tolerant of wet soils in poorly drained areas Planting over rocks, septic tanks and leach fields, on sand mounds

CARE OF TREES FOLLOWING PLANTING Check periodically to be sure that brush, grass and other vegetation is kept under control by mowing, mulching, spraying or a combination of these treatments. Always obtain advice from a licensed pest control advisor before using chemicals. You ag extension agency may offer courses in application of chemicals. Monitoring the appearance of your trees will help you to detect signs of insects, diseases or other problems. Apperances also help sell your product. Look for foliage turning yellow, new foliage drooping or other signs of poor health. It is easier to take successful corrective action if the problem is detected early.

Over watering is a common problem in irrigated plantations. You probably won't need to water more frequently than every 7-10 days. Give your trees a thorough, deep soak and then let the soil dry out before the next watering. This encourages the roots to grow down in search of water. Frequent, shallow watering encourages root growth near the surface and the trees are more dependent on irrigation and are less windfirm. Animals can be a major cause of damage to young trees. Porcupines, gophers, mice, rabbits, deer and cattle are the most frequent source of damage. In many states you may have to call your game commission and get their recomendations on legal methods to protect your crop. In our state, you can get help from the Pa. Game Commission to kill deer that are a threat to your seedlings or obtain a free fence to keep deer away from your seedlings. Over the years we have lost more trees to mice than any other animal. Put rat baits out on a regular basis.

About the author: Bill has been growing trees and plants for 45 years. He gives simple tips and methods for correctly planting ornamentals. His home farm is in Doylestown Pa. which is 25 north of Philadelphia in Bucks County. His web sites include http://www.seedlingsrus.com http://www.zone5trees.com and http://www.highlandhillfarm.com His phone number is 215 651 8329

tips on how to plant herbs in your garden

2009-01-28T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: Yuan

Article: Herbs have been around since time immemorial and served different kinds of purposes. They have been used to treat illness and flavour cooking; they were even believed to have magical powers. Do you want to have your own herb garden? Here are a few ideas on how to establish an herb garden.Plan your garden.Consider the herbs you want to plant. Think about their types. Would you like annuals, biennials or perennials? How much space will they occupy in your garden? If you want, you can purchase a book that can give you the right information on what specific plants you are planning to grow. List or draw your garden on paper first. Separate the annuals from the perennials so when the time comes that you have to pull out the annuals, you won't be disturbing the perennials. Perennials can be planted on the edge of your garden so when it is time to till your garden they won't be in danger of getting dug up. Another thing to remember is that you have to plant the tall ones at the back and the shorter ones in front. Also, provide your plants with enough space to grow. Proper position shall help you in this area. If you would rather keep herbs out of your garden (and some are quite invasive) you could have herb pots. These are large containers with three or more outlets for the herbs. Fill the pot up to the first outlet and plant it before continuing on with the filling and planting process. Usually, the herb that requires the most water is planted in the bottom hole, while the variety that requires the least, goes in the highest hole. Some Design IdeasYou can consider having a square herb bed. You can have your square bed divided into four by two paths crossing at mid point measuring 3 feet. You can border it with stone or brick. A wooden ladder may also do the trick. You can lay it down on your garden and plant your herbs between its rungs. You can also choose to have a wagon wheel bed. Planting here is like planting with the wooden ladders. Plant your herbs in between the wagon wheel's wedges. Get Your Plants GrowingOf course, different plants have different needs, but many of them require alkaline soil. This is the reason why you have to determine the herbs you want to plant in the planning stage. This can more or less help you find out how you should care for your plants. If you germinate your herbs from seeds, remember to follow the directions on the packet for soil, watering and temperature. Herbs are some of the easiest plants to grow. You just have to provide them with an effective drainage, sunlight, enough humidity or moisture and fertile soil. Even with just minimally meeting these requirements they will be bound produce a good harvest. for similar / related articles, please visit <a href

About the author: Yuan is an onArticle.com author. onArticle.com consist of several people who dedicated to write in demand articles.

Container Gardening: Urban Alternative for Plant Lovers

2009-01-27T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: Isabelle Boulay

Article: Gardening fanatics, with no space for a garden, like apartment dwellers and those in shared housing, can be assured gardening is not inevitably gone from their lives. You can always build a container garden on a balcony, patio, deck, or sunny window. Not only the joy of flowers but vegetables and some fruits can be grown. You can raise perennials, annuals, and even shrubs and small trees all in a container.

Container gardening can present it's own set of challenges. It requires proper planning just like any other kind of gardening. You'll need to find your USDA zone (to identify plants suitable for your zone), see how much daylight you get in your apartment or balcony, and from there you can select the best plant variety.

When buying plants be prudent and choose ones with a healthy appearance and good natural shape. Trunks should be straight. Stay away from plants with twisted, slanted or deformed stems, which can affect the healthy growth of a plant. Try to buy your plants from the local nursery unless you have the right conditions to raise seedlings indoors.

For your container, glazed ceramic pots with drainage holes are a good choice. Terracotta pots are nice looking, true, but dry out quickly and leave your plants without moisture. Wooden containers are good, but can be susceptible to rot. Cedar and redwood are fairly rot resistant and make nice containers but make sure the wood is not treated with creosote or other toxic materials that can damage the plants.

Although you in general don't want to keep your container garden plants outside when the temperature dips below 45° F, there are plants that are frost resistant for colder climates. Eulalia grasses, Mexican feather grass, Cornflowers, Lavender cottons, Jasmine, Million bells, and Stonecrops, stand up to the frost well.

If you follow these few suggestions you will be off to a good start with your new minature garden creation.

About the author: Isabelle Boulay writes for www.OnlineTips.org, where you can find information on <a href=""http://onlinetips.org/installing-fiberglass-insulation"">ins talling fiberglass insulation</a> and <a href=""http://onlinetips.org/replace-door"">How to Replace an Entry Door</a>

Planting White Pine Seedlings

2009-01-26T03:01:00.000-08:00

Author: B Hirst

Article: Planting White Pine Trees White pines. Whenever I think of white pines, I remember hunting when I was a kid and standing near trees that were giants. Now every pine tree I plant, I can invision those days in the deep woods and those grand trees and hope someone else will have that same enjoyment. These trees will help you too in establish a desired vision to your landscape.

Beyond their size, white pines also fill important ecological niches. They grow across broad ranges of forest and urban conditions, finding much of North America to their liking.

White Pine trees need protection from deer, disease, insects, and competing weeds and shrubs. The better your weed control the better your trees will grow. When seedlings are planted, it best to plant them with large spacings to allow more light to the plant. If these trees are planted in shade, they tend to be more open. White pines are used around new construction because they perform in a wide range of soil conditions. If you have compacted soil from new construction, we suggest smaller trees of 3-5' height.

All people handling seedlings and small trees need to help with the life support of your plants. Seedlings are like fish out of water and need care which is often overlooked between the time the seedlings are lifted and transplanted. Improper care means higher mortality. Do not try and reinvent the wheel. You must protect seedling from moisture and temperature extremes, as well as physical damage. Seedlings are living and should be handled carefully. For a higher survival rate, treat trees carefully and plant them immediately. I like to have a backup plan for planting if the weather turns bad. I will sometimes switch from lining out the seedlings to potting them up if I realize that the soil conditions will not be right for an extended lenght of time. If planting must be delayed a few days, keep the plants in a cold, protected place with air circulation between the trees. Keep the trees out of the rain and wind. To check if the trees need water, feel the media at the roots.. If it isn't damp, water the trees and allow the excess water to drain. In cool, damp weather, the biggest threat to these trees is from mold. Try to keep out of soil seedlings moist by either restricting water loss with a water vapor barrier or by wetting the roots at regular intervals. While handling or planting try to reduce temperature and air movement around the seedlings. Windy days can dry out seedlings so consider waiting for calmer weather. Once your soil conditions are correct OUR FREE USE PLANTERS will make planting a snap so its will be worth waiting for good planting conditions.

HOW TO PLANT

Ideal planting days are cool and cloudy with little or no wind. If possible, avoid planting on warm, windy days. The soil should be moist not wet. Care in planting is more important than speed. Make sure the roots are never allowed to become dry. Bare root seedlings should be carried in a waterproof bag or bucket with plenty of moist material packed around the roots to keep them damp. Ideally, bare root boxes should be kept refrigerated or packed in ice or snow. Don't freeze the trees. Competition from weeds, grass, brush or other trees is very detrimental to survival and growth of seedlings. Choose areas free from this competition or clear at least a three-foot square bare spot before planting. Seedlings should not be planted under the crown of existing trees, or closer than 6 feet to existing brush. Avoid areas near walnut trees. Brush aside loose organic material such as leaves, grass, etc., from the planting spot to expose mineral soil. If organic matter gets into the planting hole, it can decompose and leave air spaces. Roots will dry out when they grow into these spaces. Open up the hole, making sure the hole is deep enough for the roots to be fully extended. If roots are curled or bunched up, the tree will not be able to take up water correctly, will often weaken and die, or may blow down later due to poor root structure. Take a tree out of your planting bag or bucket only after a hole is ready. When exposed, the fine roots can dry out in as little as 30 seconds. Seedling shoots and roots lose water to air, roots require more protecting.Unlike leaves ,they do not have stomata (closeable openings on the surface of the leaves) or any waxy coatings to help reduce water loss. If the roots apear dry they are probably dead. Now I know you are thinking,""I will place them in a buckect of water and store them there until planting"". This will not work. Submerge plants for no longer that a couple of minutes. Placing them in water cuts them off from oxygen. Remember to remove the container before planting a containerized tree. A helpful hint to all those new gardeners just starting is to remember to always plant green side up. Hold the seedling in place in the hole, making sure the roots are straight, fully extended and that the tree is neither too shallow or too deep in the hole. Fill hole, allowing soil to fall in around the roots. Tamp with hands or with your heel. Don't crush the roots by jumping up and down around the seedling like there is a snake curled up around the seedling. It is delicate. Fill with more soil, if necessary, and tamp. Tamping is important. If soil is not firmly packed around the roots, there will be air pockets that can dry out the roots, and the seedlings may be weakly anchored. It is far easier to plant the tree strait up then have the tree leaning and have to adjust the tree later. (Addition of fertilizer and plant vitamins at the time of planting is not generally necessary.) Take your time in planting. Proper spacing will help you grow a more valuable crop. I have tried to get more production from a limited area by over planting and then thinning, but I always have had trouble in harvesting .... digging is slower and poor quality usually results for a portion of the crop. Avoid these tree planting errors:

Tangled roots Planting too shallow Planting too deep Air pockets Turned up roots (this is called J rooting) Planting trees that are not tolerant of wet soils in poorly drained areas Planting over rocks, septic tanks and leach fields, on sand mounds

http://seedlingsrus.com/Arborvitae.html

http://seedlingsrus.com/FreeFencing.html

http://seedlingsrus.com/Winter

http://zone5trees.com/Hedges

http://zone5trees.com/PlantingInstructions.html

http://zone5trees.com/ProfitsGrowingTrees.html

About the author: After planting over 50,000 white pines from 3"" to 14'over the past 30 years I think I know afew tips on how to plant a white pine.

How To Care Garden Tractor Tires

2009-01-25T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: A.Caxton

Article: Garden Tractor Tires Require Good Care

The following article describes the garden tractor tires, constructional features, maintenance, and care instructions specifically for garden tractor tires. It also discusses the storage of garden tractor during winter months when the tractors are not being used.

Garden Tractor Tire Design

You would have noted that the garden tractor have different diameters on the front and rear tires. The front tires are smaller and the rear ones are large. The tractors are front wheel driven and this is the reason for the smaller front tires. The ribs on front tires are generally straight and rear tires are cross-ribbed. The tractor tires do not have to pump water as the truck tires. In fact, they are required to work in waterlogged area effectively.

Weight Distribution In Tractor Tires

The load distribution in tractor tires is generally 40 % on front tires and 60 % on rear tires. In order to avoid the compaction of earth below the rear tires, the tires are made large so that the additional load that they carry compared to the front tires do not compact the earth below it. The tires have large ribs so that they cut through the earth instead of compacting it.

Garden Tractor Tires Come As Original Equipment

Your garden tractor tire would have come to you as original equipment along with you tractor. When you change the tires, make sure that the same or equivalent tires are used. This will ensure that the performance from your garden tractor remains as original.

Since lawn tractor tires are almost the most used part of these gardening machines, you should be aware of a proper care and maintenance. One of the most important things to have in mind when using tractors is keeping the accurate inflation as well as the terrain where they work must be slippery an uneven. Apart from these basic tips, there are so many that all gardeners should know before start working with this powerful machine, that could last a lifetime, when it's maintained properly.

About the author: Andrew Caxton contributes adding reviews and special articles regularly to http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com. A gardening website that carries interesting readings on lawn equipment and lawn mower parts, including how to care tractor and mower tires http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com/garden-tractor-tir es.html

Planting Spruce Seedlings

2009-01-24T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: Bill Hirst

Article: Did you know that Black Hills Spruce trees have dark, dark brown bark and dark, dark green needles which are their leaves. From afar, it takes surprisingly few of any evergreen tree to appear black. It takes even fewer of the Black Hills Spruce trees together to make an apparently black forest. Yes, the Black Forest of Bavaria in Germany is named for it's evergreen trees. One-third of the Black Forest today is Spruce, and Pine trees are close behind at 30%. Evergreen trees are (for)ever green, but none is more deeply, darkly green than mountain area Spruce trees like the Black Hills Spruce. There are no species of European Spruce trees named for the Black Forest, but the Rocky Mountains' Spruce trees which have remained for millions of years in the Black Hills were named well.

So, guess what percent of the trees covering the Black Hills are Black Hills Spruce trees? The Ponderosa Pine tree, also known as the Western Yellow Pine tree makes up over three quarters of the area's trees, 76%! Would you believe just 4% of the trees in the Black Hills are Black Hills Spruce Trees? Yeesh.

Spruce trees are not just valuable as evergreen trees suitable for rich, year 'round, dark green color from their dense needle-leaves, and of course, for Christmastime.

One of our customers worked at the Homestake Gold Mine after graduating from college. Left over from the 1876 Gold Rush to the Black Hills of South Dakota, where George Custer was supposed to chase away the prospectors bothering the Sioux Indians, but instead tried the opposite and got himself killed, the Homestake Gold mine is still operating today. The mine is a great tourist attraction, ranking right up there with Mount Rushmore, Crazy Horse Mountain, the indoor hot springs pool in the town of, well, Hot Springs. The Homestake Mine has produced more gold than any other mine in the entire western hemisphere, including the huge open-pit surface mines of Nevada.

Guess what species of tree from the forest of the Black hills has been favored for the timber supports and structures down in the mine all these 120-odd years ? It was the aptly named Black Hills Spruce, because the Spruce wood is better able to stand up to being constantly bumped and being constantly wet (you wouldn't believe just how wet underground mines are our customer tells us) than the far more locally common Ponderosa Pine wood.

How about that? If you want to mine your property with an underground operation, you'll be able to cut down your mature Spruce trees in just 30 years after you plant the seedlings you bought from SeedlingsRus, or maybe just half that time, 15 years, if you get 6-foot saplings. Planting seedlings

All people handling seedlings need to help with the life support of your plants. Seedlings are like fish out of water and need care which is often overlooked between the time the seedlings are lifted and transplanted. Improper care means higher mortality. Do not try and reinvent the wheel. You must protect seedling from moisture and temperature extremes, as well as physical damage. Seedlings are living and should be handled carefully. For a higher survival rate, treat trees carefully and plant them immediately. I like to have a backup plan for planting if the weather turns bad. I will sometimes switch from lining out the seedlings to potting them up if I realize that the soil conditions will not be right for an extended lenght of time. If planting must be delayed a few days, keep the plants in a cold, protected place with air circulation between the trees. Keep the trees out of the rain and wind. To check if the trees need water, feel the media at the roots.. If it isn't damp, water the trees and allow the excess water to drain. In cool, damp weather, the biggest threat to these trees is from mold. Try to keep out of soil seedlings moist by either restricting water loss with a water vapor barrier or by wetting the roots at regular intervals. While handling or planting try to reduce temperature and air movement around the seedlings. Windy days can dry out seedlings so consider waiting for calmer weather. Once your soil conditions are correct OUR FREE USE PLANTERS will make planting a snap so its will be worth waiting for good planting conditions.

HOW TO PLANT

Animals can be a major cause of damage to young trees. Porcupines, gophers, mice, rabbits, deer and cattle are the most frequent source of damage. In many states you may have to call your game commission and get their recomendations on legal methods to protect your crop. In our state, you can get help from the Pa. Game Commission to kill deer that are a threat to your seedlings or obtain a free fence to keep deer away from your seedlings. Over the years we have lost more trees to mice than any other animal. Put rat baits out on a regular basis. Other articles that you will find of interest:

http://seedlingsrus.com/DeerDamageControl http://seedlingsrus.com/NewConstruction http://seedlingsrus.com/Soils http://seedlingsrus.com/PlantingTips.html http://www.zone5trees.com/GrowingGrasses.html

About the author: Bill has been raising and planting spruce seedling for 30 years at his Doylestown Pa. farm.

The Walking Leaf

2009-01-23T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: Vanina Mangano

Article: Imagine - you are sitting in your garden, working on your latest gardening project, when, suddenly, a leaf walks leisurely by. At this point, you may wonder whether you've spent too many consecutive hours in your garden...but relax, you have not gone bananas. Well, the scenario may not happen in quite this way, but we've all likely seen the mysterious 'walking leaf' bug at one time or another.

The walking leaf insect, also known as Phasmida, from the Phylliidae family, can sometimes be found in our very own gardens. It would actually be a rare instance to see these insects in motion, since they are experts at camouflaging themselves, and they only feed at night. The natural question, at this point, is whether or not you as a gardener should fear these little creatures. Unlike other plant eaters, the leaf bug is rarely considered to be a plague, even by farmers. Occasionally, they can be considered pests to the eucalyptus trees, where they can reproduce in great numbers and cause a major problem - a female can lay thousands of eggs within her lifetime, which is only up to 18 months long. Otherwise, Phasmidas are considered to be very passive and are strictly vegetarians. Unlike other plant-eating insects, the leaf bugs will eat an entire leaf, rather than taking random bites of many leaves. This makes their trail difficult to find, allowing them to go unnoticed for a period of time.

The walking leaves range from 20-330 millimeters long, and are green or brown in color. Because of their shape and color, they may be difficult to find, especially when they are on the defense, at which time they may play dead by falling to the floor, or sway slightly as a leaf would in the wind. Otherwise, they choose to remain extremely still.

What makes the walking leaf very interesting is that they have the ability to reproduce through thenogenesis - without mating. When this occurs, however, all eggs will result in female off-springs, whereas mating would result in both male and female reproduction. Within the 50 different leaf bug species, some males are said to be extinct.

This may be difficult to believe for some, but the walking leaf bug has become a popular pet. Caring of the leaf bug is very easy and does not require high maintenance, so is great for both kids and adults. Because of their unique shapes, framed leaf bugs have also become a popular decoration and sell for over $200.

So the next time you notice a suspicious, moving leaf, or one that looks right back at you, you can rest easy knowing it is just the Phasmida!

About the author: Vanina Mangano is co-founder of MYeFlora, an online gardening community. Vanina is a business professional and a passionate gardener who enjoys writing about and participating in nature. Visit her site at http://www.myeflora.com.

Landscaping: 3 Ways to Use Concrete in your Yard

2009-01-22T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: Carlo Morelli

Article: The mental images that the word concrete invokes may not be of something you'd want in your yard but in fact, the landscaping industry has begun to incorporate concrete materials in their designs the past few years with surprising results. Now concrete's use is growing with the introduction of stained concrete finishes to include patios and driveways as well. You can make use of concrete for various parts of your yard.

1) The most common use is concrete block designs for walkways and paths through a garden. This is usually seen in larger yards but even if your yard is small it can accommodate concrete landscaping. It could be a small patio built from concrete blocks for you and your family to sit in the sun on. It could be a simple concrete planter or two for a small container garden. Or simply a concrete sundial in a flower bed.

2) Stone walls are another form of concrete landscaping that has really caught on. Walls frame the whole home like a frame to a prized painting. There are many reasons to have concrete walls. These walls work well for keeping small pets in the yard, and good for keeping intruders out. The harder your home is to get into the less likely burglars will be to bother trying.

3) You can also use concrete landscaping to keep your soil in place. If there is a part of your yard that on an incline then you can build a retaining wall expressly for this purpose. Concrete blocks come in many shapes and textures and you are sure to find a style you like.

Another thing about concrete that makes it so suited to landscaping is that while it can be quite functional and rugged it also can give the appearance of being purely decorative. There is so much that you can do with concrete in landscaping because it is so easy to work with. You can use concrete landscaping bricks, blocks or whole solid slabs. You can even get custom made concrete landscaping stones that are unique in shape and pattern. Take some time to visit your local nursery or landscaping supply stores and have a look at the concrete landscaping materials, you will definitely get some ideas for your next backyard project.

About the author: Carlo Morelli writes for www.OnlineTips.org, where you can find tips on <a href=""http://onlinetips.org/installing-fiberglass-insulation"">ins talling fiberglass insulation</a>, <a href=""http://onlinetips.org/replace-door"">how to replace an entry door</a> and many other home and garden projects.

Gardening: Tips for Autumn Vegetable Growing

2009-01-21T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: Carlo Morelli

Article: Due to their fears of early winter frosts, a lot of gardeners do not think about fall gardening. If you're one of them maybe a few tips can make you change your mind. You should, because fall gardening produces some first-rate vegetables long after spring planted plants are finished. Autumn garden vegetables are can be sweeter and milder than those grown in summer and present a different taste to the same old veggies. What are the best plants to grow during the fall, of course, depends on space available, your climate zone, and what you like to eat, just like spring planting. Even heat-loving crops, like tomatoes, sweet potatoes and peppers, will produce until frosts hit, which can be fairly late in the year in southern zones.

Then there are other plants that will give up as early as the end of summer, such as cucumbers, snap-beans and summer squash. Still, they can be harvested up until the first frosts also if planted mid-summer. Hardy vegetables - potatoes, carrots and other root and tubers will keep growing until the temperature is as low as 20 degrees, but those that aren't as strong can only grow through light frosts.

When planning for fall gardening, look on seed packages for the words ""early season"", or seeds sporting the least days to maturity. Choosing the vegetables with the shortest growing season helps ensure they can be fully grown and harvested prior to the appearance of frost. You may want to shopping for fall gardening seeds in spring or early summer when the stores are still completely stocked. Seeds stored in a cool and dry location will keep until time to plant.

Speaking of time to plant, you need to know when the first hard frost will usually hit your area in order to know exactly when the best time to plant for fall gardening is. I recommend looking this up in a Farmer's Almanac. They are rarely wrong and will give you specific dates. You also need to know just how long your plants are going to take to mature. Then you will be able to match up the plants with the right growing times to your area.

Prepping your soil for fall gardening starts with getting rid of any leftover spring-summer crops and debris. These leftovers may spread bacteria and disease to your new plants if left in your garden. Increase the nutrients in the soil by spreading a couple inches of compost or mulch over the garden area. If summer plants were fertilized heavily it may not need much, however, if any. Turn over the soil's top layer, moisten it, and let set for 12-24 hours. Congratulations, you're ready to start planting. Many gardeners shun fall gardening in order not to deal with frosts, but if robust, hardy vegetables are planted properly they can survive a few frosts and provide some wonderful tasting fresh food.

Gardening By The Yard Tips

2009-01-20T03:01:00.000-08:00

Author: George Hapgood

Article: You have always been envious of your neighbors' spruced up garden by the yard. Flowers and lush shrubs abound in their tiny nook of paradise. You ask yourself why you never get to have that kind of garden. And, you usually dismiss such wondering with lines like ""I don't have a green thumb!"" or ""I can't afford a gardener or a professional landscaper,"" which are both lame alibis.

If you want your yard to look regal with a simple but well-maintained garden, you only need two things - determination and the know-how of such an endeavor. Psyche yourself to muster such will that would consequently urge you to look for sources of information on how to go about it.

For your own gardening happiness, here's a rundown of tips on how to make your gardening by the yard endeavor a very rewarding one.

1. Deadheading

One good rule of the green thumb is to keep your border free from wilted flowers and dried leaves. Deadheading or removing dead flowers' heads will promote the blooming of your plants. Some perennials such as phlox, daylily, and Lady's Mantle get their growth jumpstarted by deadheading.

2. Prune selectively

It is a must to shorten the size of your annuals through selective pruning. This will help the plants to grow more.

3. Pinch out tops.

Certain plants respond when their tops get pinched out. Such plants include Coleus (a foliage plant) and herbs.

4. Fertilize lightly.

A minimal amount of fertilizer will further boost the growth of your vegetation. If you water your yard frequently, you have to fertilize it more regularly because of nutrient depletion.

5. Weed out.

This is one of the best ways to preserve the beauty of your garden by the yard. Moreover, removing weeds also provide better absorption of the soil's nutrients. If you can't help but use herbicide, do this safely and make sure that other plants don't get affected.

6. Water them well

One good tip when it comes to watering your garden by the yard is to do it for shorter periods of time, more often. It will do well if you increase your frequency of watering a bit come summer time. But doubling the time you water your plants will do more harm than good, e.g. erosion.

7. Say no to chemicals

Chemical is just as bad to plants as it is with humans. So better avoid using it as a pesticide. Physical pest controls or other alternatives are better options.

With these simple tips, soon enough you won't have to go green with envy with your neighbor's spectacular garden by the yard.

About the author: You Too can have a green thumb. Visit Georges Blog here http://www.push-button-online-income.com/gardening

Edible Trees and Plants

2009-01-19T03:01:00.000-08:00

Author: B Hirst

Article: Highland Hill Farm just doesn't sell and install ""landscaping beauty."" We're providing you with food and raw materials! Of course you already know that you can use the wood from your trees instead of going to a lumber yard or home supplies center. You've learned about the historical use of the Viburnum's straight branches for making arrow shafts. Then, the hardwood trees you have planted can provide fruits or nuts.

But did you know you can rub the powder found on the bark of a Quaking Aspen tree on your skin and it works as mosquito repellent. You see, mosquito repellent actually works not because the mosquitoes are driven away by the offensive smell, but because there are chemical compounds whose odor blocks the mosquito's sensory receptors effectively hiding us. So, you can be invisible to mosquitoes by buying mosquito repellent with ""DEET,"" an organic hydrocarbon molecule, or use the powder from the bark of your Quaking Aspen tree, an organic molecule from a whole 'nuther source.

Edible Wild plants. Yes you can safely eat the following:

The leaves of the Quaking Aspen also make a tasty tea which will cure minor headaches. The Quaking aspen leaves contain salicylic acid, the active ingredient of (acetylsalicylic) aspirin. Silver Birch trees' bark makes a tea which has long been considered as medicinal as chicken soup.

Arborvitae , the ""lifegiving tree,"" obviously has made a superbly beneficial tea for centuries. The leaves and bark both are boiled in water to yield Vitamin C along with the tannins, etc. and prevent or cure scurvy. Maybe you don't like orange juice, or more likely, have been given a dietary restriction for citrus fruit. Just have some tea from a Thuja Occidentalis, the Eastern Cedar, or Eastern White Cedar, also called Northern White Cedar, boy oh boy, the Arborvitae sure has alot of names! Anyway, you can check on the value of Arborvitae Tea; Just get a time machine, go back to 1536 near Quebec, and ask the explorer Jacques Cartier and his men. Burdock is edible. (But it tastes very bitter)

From the popular dogwood tree, you can eat the berries. NOT the plant, bark, or leaves, but the Dogwood's fruit, the berries, are edible (sad note, you will likely find the berries taste almost as bitter as burdock plant). The inside bark of a cottonwood tree tastes pretty fair. The white inside part of a cattail tastes very good. It's like a mild cucumber. Watercress is sold as a delicacy in restaurants. It has a strong flavor, tasting rather spicy like radishes) Poplar bark is tolerable. Anise is truly delicious if you like black licorice. Dandelion leaves make a great salad, the roots can be roasted and then ground to make a kind of coffee or tea drink with boiled water, or you can even make dandelion wine. Any kind of mint can be grown alongside your shrubs and flowers. Be sure you harvest it often or some species of mint will become ""an invasive"" and take over your whole yard.

Wild rose hips can be rather expensive to buy, but are high in Vitamin C, an ingredient in many teas. Just don't eat the flowers or plant stems. Thistle is more like a weed, a real weed, but if you'll scrape the thorns off (duh!) you can eat the leaf or the inside of the blossom as salad greens. Berries. whether strawberries, raspberries, chokecherries (can seem like too much pit to be worth it), currants (Tart tasting), serviceberries, gooseberries (green, ""stripy"" and very TART!), purple elderberries (red ones are poisonous), cranberries, and best of all, blueberries are just about the best example of what we can eat that grows wild. Don't eat sumac berries, they are poisonous!

Prickly Pear Cactus is indeed a succulent. Scrape off the skin, boil the inside, and you'll see why it is botanically classified as ""succulent."" Clover can be eaten as a salad green. You can even eat the four-leafed ones for extra folic acid to go with your good luck. Did you know it has been claimed an apple can be more helpful for waking up in the morning than a cup of coffee, or the more caffeine-rich orange-colored teas? A morning or two, try an apple fresh-picked from your own apple tree and see if you feel the lift.

Our use plant links

http://seedlingsrus.com/Arborvitae.html

http://seedlingsrus.com/FreeFencing.html

http://seedlingsrus.com/Winter http://zone5trees.com/Hedges

http://zone5trees.com/PlantingInstructions.html http://zone5trees.com/ProfitsGrowingTrees.html

http://seedlingsrus.com/GrowingRhodies.html

About the author: Bill has been raising trees and plants for over 45 years in Doylestown Pa. on his 220 acre farm.

Kick Start Your Landscape With Winter Gardening Tips

2009-01-18T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: B Hirst

Article: Winter Gardening Tips

Winter can be a bleak hard time of the year for the grower of nursery stock. The days are short and the nights are long. Yet growing plants is a year round activity that does require the grower to be performings tasks.

Watering plants can be be on your list. The ground may not be frozen and plants still use water. If the ground is not frozen you can still water if the ground will accept the water. Most plants are dormant so the amount of watering is not as high as in the hotter seasons. Evergreens lose water through their needles in the winter. So if one keeps watering as long as possible into the winter, seedlings and plants will suffer less stress. Winter drying of evergreens is a major stress factor in growing seedlings and potted stock.

Snow and ice on your seedlings and liners can be problematic. Starting with a more developed plant is the best solution to this problem. Tall thin seedlings that have not been root pruned and transplanted are not as sturdy a plant. They tend to bend under snow loads and may require staking later to train them strait. If your seedlings have a light amount of snow covering them you may ease the snow burden by lightly sweeping the snow with a broom. Don't shake them, they are like babies ... they get shaken baby syndrome. If snow or ice is frozen to the branches, allow it to melt rather than attempting to correct. If any branches are broken, you probably don't need to do anything unless there is a split in the trunk. If the breakage of the plant is sever, the seedling or liner shoud be discarded. The labor to correct is not worth the value of the plant. Also a poor quality seedling will probably be a poor quality mature plant. There is a market for such plants however, we have had many customers who want, "" Charly Brown Trees"" or stunted trees for unusual customer needs.

Warm spells in the winter occur. Suddenly, there can be days of warmer temperatures. This should not be a problem. If you have covering on or over the plants, you may need to ventilate. We normally open the doors to our greenhoses and this is usually all that is necessary. Cold frame temps may rise so ventilation will be helpful. Close up as nightfall arrives as the temperature will fall. Note that when sunlight intensity is high, plant tissues become active. Water loss at this time can't be replaced if the root balls are frozen. This is called plant desiccation. Also if there many freeze-thaw cycles, the crown of the plant will be heaved up exposing the roots. Root systems have a lower tolerance to temperature extremes and can killed by freezing low temperatures.A common way to prevent desiccation is to screen plants in exposed areas with Burlap .

Ordering seedlings early in the winter is your best way to assure a supply. We can ship many of our seedlings durring the winter but we recommend that you have them shipped after the winter weather is over. This will vary according to your location. If you get the seedlings and you can't plant them upon arrival, keep them in a cool place in your house or barn. Your basement may be an ideal place. Keep the roots from freezing. It will be hard to get your order filled in April because growers do sell out. What we dont sell, we line out for our nursery, Highland Hill Farm. We sell all sizes of plants from seedlings to large caliper trees. We also have our free use planters for you to use when you buy seedlings and liners from us. You can see more articles by Bill Hirst at http://www.seedlingsrus.com

http://seedlingsrus.com/Arborvitae.html http://seedlingsrus.com/FreeFencing.html http://seedlingsrus.com/Winter http://zone5trees.com/Hedges http://zone5trees.com/PlantingInstructions.html http://zone5trees.com/ProfitsGrowingTrees.html http://seedlingsrus.com/GrowingRhodies.html

About the author: Bill has been growing trees and Plants on his Doylestown farm for 25 years.

Landscaping Ideas: Using Landscaping Rock for Maximum Effect

2009-01-17T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: Carlo Morelli

Article: Looking to give you yard some something special to set it apart from those in the rest of your neighborhood? Want to add some depth and texture to your landscaping design? Landscaping rock comes in many different forms, is inexpensive, and used sparingly, give a garden a warm, natural look.

Not only is there a good selection of colors, landscaping rock comes in different kinds of stone to choose among, from limestone to slate to granite. Different landscaping designs call for different types of landscaping rock, obviously, but given all the choices it is easy to get just the right rock.

If you are landscaping a new property, when you first clear the ground and rototill the soil for your yard, you'll no doubt find a few choice rocks you wish you hadn't. Don't have them hauled way; these can be set aside and used in your landscaping. It could save you time and expense later on. The trick to using rock in landscaping effectively, as with any form of hardscaping, is to completely incorporate them into your yard's design. Locate them in places that will add to the yard, not where it looks like you are trying to cover something up or take attention away from another part of the yard. Plan just where each landscaping rock should be placed for maximum effect and balance.

Take the time to bury your rock and it will improve it's look, making them appear planted. They will integrate better into the overall design and look as if this is where they belong.

How far you bury your rock in the ground will depend upon the landscaping rock that you select. If you have a very large piece of rock then it should be buried deeper than a smaller landscaping rock. Four to six inches is a good depth for a medium size rock. Dig a shallow hole about the size of your landscaping rock and place the rock into it. Use common sense here and get help lifting it. If it is a larger piece, you may need to rent lifting equipment or hire a contractor for this part. Finally tuck back the dirt into the gap around the rock.

Next time that you are out walking or hiking in the woods, keep an eye out for larger rocks and boulders. Look at how they naturally sit in the ground and you'll see what kind of a look the landscaping rock in your yard should have. This is the kind of detail that will set your yard off from the rest of your neighbors.

Things You Should Consider When Buying Your First Garden Leaf Blower

2009-01-16T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Leonard Mutch

Article: Want to save yourself some time?

Collecting leaves with the aid of a garden leaf blower is considerably less time-consuming and less back breaking work when compared to using a garden rake or other such tools. The general idea of a leaf blower is pretty straightforward. A high-speed fan is surrounded by a cover. Tubes are then connected to the side of the fan to focus the air current (up to around 200 miles per hour in some units) in the direction you want to move the leaves.

What do I need to consider?

First of all consider the size of your garden and your exposure to fallen leaves. Do you have a large yard? If you have only a small garden and no trees or bushes then you will not need a garden leaf blower, but if you have a large garden and wish to have it looking clean at all times then a garden leaf blower would be a wise investment and a great time saver for you.You will want to bear these factors in mind when you consider the features of the different models.

Garden leaf blowers come in all shapes and sizes depending on their use.

Leaf blowers include both small one-hand models and powerful, professional types which can be carried in a harness on your back.Consider one with a harness particularly if you suffer from back or neck problems, as the harness will take a good deal of the load off your shoulders and arms.

Consider too, the blowing speed and air volume the different models put out, as a high blowing speed would cut down the time needed for the blowing operation. Most garden leaf blowers will have a rating of 350 to 600 cubic feet of air per minute (CFM).

A low vibration level would also be preferable with ergonomic handles and harnesses to help you to work more efficiently with less strain on the hands, arms and shoulders.

Handheld garden leaf blowers can be generally divided into two groups: those that can collect leaves and those that can't. With a garden leaf blower you can do much more than just move leaves. It can also be used to collect rubbish, grass clippings, hedge clippings, and empty tin cans.

Your choice of garden leaf blower should have an efficient system to minimise vibrations in the parts of the machine that you or the user comes in contact with.

Make a note of the weight of each type of garden leaf blower too, as some blowers can weigh as much as 25lb or 12kg. You'd have to be doing an awful lot of blowing to be needing the 25lb model!

Consider too, a model with the ability to vacuum all you leaves into a bag rather than blowing them all away. Another great time saver when it comes to disposing of the leaves. An extra mulching feature is available on some leaf blower/vacuums. Mulched lawn debris can be used in compost piles or bagged for disposal. Most of these convert easily from blowing to vacuuming mode.

Making your choice between an electric or gas-powered unit isn't always easy! Gas blowers are more powerful, but electric ones are quieter.The engine should be powerful and easy to start if you choose a gasoline model. Do you live in a busy neighborhood where a quieter operation would be appreciated? Or is your yard massive with lots of trees, making a powerful unit the only real option?

Choose a model within your price range with the best selection of features. You can expect to pay anywhere between $100 and $500 for a decent garden leaf blower, depending upon the specifications you choose.

About the author: About the author Leonard Mutch is a keen gardener and author. You can read more of his tips and articles at <a href=""http://www.gardenleafblower.com/Garden-Leaf-Blower-Maintena nce.html "" target=""_blank"">Blow Leaf</a>

What's in Store for National Home Gardening Club Members?

2009-01-15T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Nicky Pilkington

Article: The National Home Gardening Club offer many benefits to its members.

It is said to be the largest home gardening organization with paid membership. For a nominal fee, various benefits are available.

If you choose to become a member the National Home Gardening club, you will be entitled to the following perks. 1. Members can enter competitions to win free gardening products such as gardening accessories, tools, and other gardening supplies.

2. A coupon will be given to members to claim a free gardening shears.

3. Members can also access a free trial subscription of the Gardening How-To Magazine.

4. They may be eligible to test and keep gardening tools such as pruning shears. These are some of the products tested by members in the past two issues of the Gardening How-To magazine:

- Honda Harmony Lawn Mower - Miracle-Gro Garden Weed Preventer - Sunflower Garden - Cobra Head Precision Weeder and Cultivator - Preen 'n Green

5. Members can enjoy a free directory of public gardens, which contains information about lush gardens, arboretums, and conservatories throughout the US.

6. They can interact and talk about tips, ideas and methods with other members.

7. Members can obtain gardening and landscaping tips and plans for the completion of various gardening projects.

8. They have access to the members-only gardening website.

9. Members can also preview gardening books, gardening videos, etc.

Indeed, the for-members-only benefits are that grandiose. They are all for the gardening enthusiasts to grab.

After the 30-day trial, you can continue your membership for only $1 per month.

Many garden-lovers think this is a small price to pay for all these privileges.

About the author: Find more about <a href=http://aboutgardening.org>gardening</a> and some <a href=http://aboutgardening.org>useful gardening tips</a> at <a href=http://aboutgardening.org>About Gardening</a>

Online Gardening Catalogues At Your Disposal

2009-01-14T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Nicky Pilkington

Article: Are you searching for gardening catalogues? What kind of gardening and plants do you prefer to read about? There is a wide selection available online. Here are a few websites that offer gardening catalogues. Check out the URL to see if they are free or not.

1. www.jacksonsnurseries.co.uk

Along with nursery facilities, Jackson Nurseries offer landscape designing, ground designing and wholesale plants at wholesale prices.

2. www.mzbulb.com

If you are looking for flower bulbs, McClure and Zimmerman have each and every variety. They have a no fuss website navigation that allows interested clients to easily order gardening catalogs.

3. www.gardennursery.com

In business for over 50 years, Nichols Garden Nursery has an online catalogue unit offering seeds and plants. Their 76 page free gardening catalogue can be ordered by filling out their catalogue request form online.

4. www.gurneys.com

Gurneys offer great deals like buy one, get one free. They also have a no-risk guarantee and a scheduled shipping of orders according to categories of plants, i.e., roses, herbs, shrubs, and trees, tender annuals, and all other plants and bulbs.

5. www.homeharvest.com

Home Harvest Garden Supply offers alternative gardening products, i.e., organic fertilizers, hydroponics, natural insect controls, container, hobby greenhouse, propagation and irrigation supplies, indoor plant grow lights and other rare gardening supplies. They offer an online catalogue for every gardening enthusiast.

6. www.jacksonandperkins.com

Jackson and Perkins are known to be one of the best American gardening experts. They are reaching out to other gardening aficionados through their website, offering gardening products through their catalogue. They sell a wide range of plants - from new award-winning roses and easy to grow perennials, to special outdoor decor. Flowering gifts may also be sent directly to your friends by ordering from their site. 7. www.thegardenwindow.com

This site offers an online catalogue that specializes in imported Chinese tree peonies (from Mainland, China).

While free online catalogues may be good source of gardening supply information, you may also be deluged with a flood of promotion about other products.

Attracting Hummingbirds

2009-01-13T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Vanina Mangano

Article: Attracting hummingbirds to your backyard and garden is much easier than it sounds. These small birds have a special knack for finding their favorite flowers, and a powerful memory for returning to their favorite spots - even after years of visiting! A common mistake is to think that hummingbirds find their feeding ground through a flower's scent, but this is untrue - they have nearly no sense of smell. Instead, they seek out tubular shaped flowers, heavy with nectar, and specific colors, such as red, pink, and orange. This is why hummingbird feeders work so well: they typically are lined with the color red, or other strong colors. A major plus is that hummingbirds are always on the look out for new places to feed. This does not mean that once they find a new feeding ground they will abandon yours - these birds must feed at least every 10 minutes, so the more the better!

To start, try some or all of the following:

- Plant a hummingbird garden. A great part of a hummingbird's diet consists of sugar, which they get from nectar and tree sap. Here are some of the many plants that make a great hummingbird paradise:

--Flowers: Canna, Foxglove, Lupine, Yucca, Coral Bells, Agapanthus, Petunia, Impatiens, Fuschias, Begonia, Honeysuckle

--Trees/Shrubs: Azalea, Red Buckeye, Lantana, Butterfly Bush

--Vines: Honeysuckle, Morning Glory, Trumpet Creeper, Cypress Vine

- Hang a hummingbird feeder. These are very easy to find and affordable. You can buy a special feeder mix, or make your own by boiling 1 part sugar to 4 parts water 2 cups water for two hours. A word of caution: do not use food coloring or any type of dye, honey, or artificial flavors - these will harm the hummingbirds.

- Hummingbirds are very territorial. If possible, we recommend hanging at least two feeders.

- Red is a very attractive color to them. Tying a red ribbon near your feeder will make them curious enough to explore, as well as making the feeder more visible.

- Clean your feeder at least one time per month. Not only will you continue to provide hummingbirds with a great feeding source, but you will keep them coming (they will not feed on spoiled syrup).

- Hummingbirds spend 80% of their time perching. By including possible perching plants or other perching-potential items in your garden, hummingbirds will be more likely to linger and return.

- Bathing in running water is a pleasing hummingbird pastime - they love dripping water. They enjoy misted leaves to bathe in, so adding water misters near plants with wide leaves is a definite attraction.

- Eucalyptus trees are desirable to hummingbirds not only because they provide good perching ground, but also because they use them for nesting material.

- Hummingbirds don't just feed from nectar. Part of their diet is made up of protein that they get from little insects that they eat, particularly fruit flies. Because of this, it is best not to use pesticide in your hummingbird garden, since the birds may feed on infected insects and become ill themselves.

By following some or all of the above suggestions, you should see some hummers very soon. Although, keep in mind that many hummingbirds do migrate, depending on your region, so do not become discouraged if they do not show immediately - there are many online resources outlining migratory and species information, such as www.hummingbirds.net.

Some fun hummingbird facts:

- They take nectar at 13 licks per second

- They can consume up to 2/3 of their body weight daily

- They can flap their wings 60-200 times per second

- Their Heart beats up to 1260 times per second

- They can fly up, down, forward, backward, and sideways

- Some migration routes consist of up to 600 miles in length

- There are 16 different species

- Feet are only used for perching

- They can fly up to 60 miles per hour

Vegetable Gardening Tips

2009-01-12T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: Nicky Pilkington

Article: With the costs of living rising all the time, it may be possible to save money and increase your family's health at the same time by growing vegetables in your backyard.

It's a good idea to choose your favourite vegetables to grow and plan beds for early, middle of the season and late varieties.

Most vegetables require at least 6 hours of sunlight per day, some need 8. Some quick growers like lettuce and radish can be grown between the rows of plants that take longer to mature, like beet or corn, thus making full use of the area available.

Throughout dry periods, vegetable gardens need extra watering. Most vegetables benefit from an inch or more of water each week, especially when they are fruiting.

During the growing season watch for insect pests. If you discover a bug problem early it will be much easier, but be careful to not use pesticides once the vegetable are close to being picked unless it becomes an absolute necessity. Organic gardening is one healthy and environment-friendly option. Once you have reaped your crop, put the vegetable waste into your compost pile so that it can be recycled for next spring.

It is important to protect your vegetable garden from wild animals looking for a tasty treat. Make sure your garden is surrounded by a fence that will keep out dogs, rabbits, and other animals. The harm done by wandering animals during one season can equal the cost of a fence. A fence also can serve as a frame for peas, beans, tomatoes, and other crops that need support.

Protection is needed in order for your vegetable garden to yield a bountiful harvest. Hard work will pay dividends if necessary precautions have been made.

Landscaping Ideas: Discover Desert Landscaping Plants

2009-01-11T03:01:00.001-08:00

Author: Carlo Morelli

Article: Life in an arid and dry climate has its benefits and challenges. I've found desert landscaping to be one of the more interesting challenges since moving to the Southwest. You're going to want to spend a little more planning time on your yard than it would normally for most other areas. You and your landscaper will need to work with a plan that includes only plants and trees that can survive with much less water. Nobody is going to plant something if it cannot sustain itself.

Even if you have a state of the art irrigation system to supply water around the clock, there will be times of drought and water rationing. Not to mention the initial cost and maintenance costs. It is much simpler for your desert landscape to simply use plants that will thrive even in the hot sun all day. So take some time with your landscaping plan to ensure that you have everything appropriate to the climate. Another benefit to using desert landscaping friendly plants is, that not only will these plants do well even in the hot sun; they will also be able to flourish in the low quality soil common to these climate zones. You will not need to add fertilizers and soil conditioners, which further will cut down on your maintenance time and expense. To start you off, here are two plants that are useful in desert landscaping: Longwood Blue Bluebeard

This is a deciduous shrub; it will grow back every spring. It will always return to its healthy and contented state each year, which makes it ideal for desert landscaping. Longwood Blue Bluebeard is a medium-sized shrub, growing to anywhere between 3 and 4 feet high with a width of around 2 feet. This is a handsome plant for use in desert landscaping' not only is it attractive, with its striking blue flower clusters and silver foliage, it is also quite fragrant. Autumn Joy

Autumn Joy is a perennial that you can employ well in desert landscaping. With this plant you will get abundant leaves in ornate whorls. These leaves can be many different colors, so Autumn Joy can be bought to go with your landscaping design. This plant is ideal for desert landscaping since it grows easily in rock gardens. This lovely desert plant also has unique attention-grabbing flowers distinct from any I have ever seen. The small flowers grow in clusters and can be different colors and shades, but most commonly are yellow, orange and red and pink. Also, be aware that if you plant these in your garden you will have butterflies around as they are attracted to the flowers, so be prepared to have your visitors ignore your lovely landscape and ooh and ahh over the butterflies!

There are many other unique plants to complement your desert landscaped backyard just like these, so have fun discovering them and enjoying your new garden.

Planting Pine and Spruce Trees

2009-01-10T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: B Hirst

Article: Spruce and pine trees are fairly easy to plant because they are fairly rugged and durable. Yet to plant or transplant them you do need to follow some basic guidelines.

All people handling seedlings and small trees need to help with the life support of your plants. Seedlings are like fish out of water and need care which is often overlooked between the time the seedlings are lifted and transplanted. Improper care means higher mortality. Do not try and reinvent the wheel. You must protect seedling from moisture and temperature extremes, as well as physical damage. Seedlings are living and should be handled carefully. For a higher survival rate, treat trees carefully and plant them immediately. I like to have a backup plan for planting if the weather turns bad. I will sometimes switch from lining out the seedlings to potting them up if I realize that the soil conditions will not be right for an extended lenght of time. If planting must be delayed a few days, keep the plants in a cold, protected place with air circulation between the trees. Keep the trees out of the rain and wind. To check if the trees need water, feel the media at the roots.. If it isn't damp, water the trees and allow the excess water to drain. In cool, damp weather, the biggest threat to these trees is from mold. Try to keep out of soil seedlings moist by either restricting water loss with a water vapor barrier or by wetting the roots at regular intervals. While handling or planting try to reduce temperature and air movement around the seedlings. Windy days can dry out seedlings so consider waiting for calmer weather. Once your soil conditions are correct OUR FREE USE PLANTERS will make planting a snap so its will be worth waiting for good planting conditions.

HOW TO PLANT

Ideal planting days are cool and cloudy with little or no wind. If possible, avoid planting on warm, windy days. The soil should be moist not wet. Care in planting is more important than speed. Make sure the roots are never allowed to become dry. Bare root seedlings should be carried in a waterproof bag or bucket with plenty of moist material packed around the roots to keep them damp. Ideally, bare root boxes should be kept refrigerated or packed in ice or snow. Don't freeze the trees. Competition from weeds, grass, brush or other trees is very detrimental to survival and growth of seedlings. Choose areas free from this competition or clear at least a three-foot square bare spot before planting. Seedlings should not be planted under the crown of existing trees, or closer than 6 feet to existing brush. Avoid areas near walnut trees. Brush aside loose organic material such as leaves, grass, etc., from the planting spot to expose mineral soil. If organic matter gets into the planting hole, it can decompose and leave air spaces. Roots will dry out when they grow into these spaces. Open up the hole, making sure the hole is deep enough for the roots to be fully extended. If roots are curled or bunched up, the tree will not be able to take up water correctly, will often weaken and die, or may blow down later due to poor root structure. Take a tree out of your planting bag or bucket only after a hole is ready. When exposed, the fine roots can dry out in as little as 30 seconds. Seedling shoots and roots lose water to air, roots require more protecting.Unlike leaves ,they do not have stomata (closeable openings on the surface of the leaves) or any waxy coatings to help reduce water loss. If the roots apear dry they are probably dead. Now I know you are thinking,""I will place them in a buckect of water and store them there until planting"". This will not work. Submerge plants for no longer that a couple of minutes. Placing them in water cuts them off from oxygen. Remember to remove the container before planting a containerized tree. A helpful hint to all those new gardeners just starting is to remember to always plant green side up. Hold the seedling in place in the hole, making sure the roots are straight, fully extended and that the tree is neither too shallow or too deep in the hole. Fill hole, allowing soil to fall in around the roots. Tamp with hands or with your heel. Don't crush the roots by jumping up and down around the seedling like there is a snake curled up around the seedling. It is delicate. Fill with more soil, if necessary, and tamp. Tamping is important. If soil is not firmly packed around the roots, there will be air pockets that can dry out the roots, and the seedlings may be weakly anchored. It is far easier to plant the tree strait up then have the tree leaning and have to adjust the tree later. (Addition of fertilizer and plant vitamins at the time of planting is not generally necessary.) Take your time in planting. Proper spacing will help you grow a more valuable crop. I have tried to get more production from a limited area by over planting and then thinning, but I always have had trouble in harvesting .... digging is slower and poor quality usually results for a portion of the crop. Avoid these tree planting errors:

About the author: Bill has benn raising and selling spruces and pine trees on his Doylestown farm for over 25 years.

6 Easy Tips On How To Care For Your Plants

2009-01-09T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: George Hapgood

Article: Many people worry a lot when it comes to caring for their plants. When talking about house plants, there is no need to worry. There are just a few things you need to consider.

1. Watering A watering can is a must-have in every garden. It is recommended that you purchase the one with a narrow spout to ensure adequate watering. But that does not always apply, so the finger test may come in handy. Insert your index finger up to the first joint into the soil. If you feel that the soil is damp, don't water it. Otherwise, do.

2. Feeding With foliage plants, they always need to be high in nitrogen. For flowering plants, on the other hand, K2O is needed. Fertilizers such as the slow release ones can be mixed with the compost. However, some plants like cacti and orchids need special feeds. Feed plants on the height of their active growth.

3. Lighting Plants like Sanseveria and Aspidistra require no shade. They can be placed away from a window. Spider plants need semi-shade. You can put plants like these near a window that does or does not get sunlight. Others need sun or no sun at all like cheeseplants.

4. Temperature With houseplants, they can survive in temperatures a little bit higher than 15 - 250 C or 55 - 750 F. But drastic fluctuations of temperature may not be good for them.

5. Humidity Some houseplants require a humid environment. One tip to maximize humidity is to put the pot inside a larger pot and fill in the gaps with stones or compost to keep in the moisture. The compost will not dry out. Plants are capable of creating their own climate if grouped together. This tip can also be used for keeping the soil moist. If you want, you can spray them with water once or twice a day depending on the day's temperature.

6. Repotting Other plants require repotting for optimum growth but some plants may not be suitable for this idea. They would not want their roots to be disturbed or other plants' root system is small. One way to check if your plant needs repotting is to turn it upside down. Tap the pot to release the plant and check its roots. If roots are all you see, then repot.

You just need to have a little care for your plants and in turn, you'll reap its benefits. You don't only have a garden that can add to your house's beauty you can also learn how to respect and nurture life in its varied forms.

About the author: You Too can have a green thumb. Visit Georges Blog here http://www.push-button-online-income.com/gardening

More About Butterly Gardening

2009-01-08T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Nicky Pilkington

Article: When creating a butterfly garden, the possibilities of what to include in your butterfly garden design are endless. Below are some suggestions to help get you started. They are designed to spark the creative process of your mind and get you started on your way to creating a lovely butterfly garden.

Before you even begin your butterfly garden, find out which species of butterflies are in your area. Consider taking an exploratory hike around your location with a butterfly identification book. This may take a little extra time and effort, but the results will be worth it. After you have compiled your list of local butterfly species, be sure to write down in your butterfly garden plan what these particular species of butterflies use for nectar and food plants.

Be sure that your garden is in a location that provides at least six hours of sunlight per day. Butterflies are cold-blooded creatures and therefore do better where they are warm and sheltered.

Wind can be a butterfly's worst enemy so be sure to have plenty of wind protection in your design. You can plant tall shrubs and other plants in order to create a wind break, but a location that avoids heavy winds is even better.

The best of all would be a butterfly garden placed on the sunny side of your home with windbreaks on both the west and east sides, or wherever the prevailing wonds come from in your area. Try and locate your garden close to a window so you can view the butterflies from indoors. Provide seating outside too.

If possible, you could excavate an area and build a stone wall around it. This would create the ideal windbreak for your butterflies. Mmake gravel pathways around your garden to save walking in mud.

There are many creative ways for constructing a butterfly garden. Take your time to design a garden that you will enjoy and be proud of.

Choosing the Best Plants for Your Garden

2009-01-07T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Nicky Pilkington

Article: Many times we buy plants on impulse then find there is nowhere in the garden that really suits them. Before buying plants carefully examine your garden to see how much sun and shade it gets, whether the soil is well drained or waterlogged and whether your aspect is sheltered or windswept. You'll then be equipped to go and buy the best plants for your situation; shade-loving plants for the sheltered areas, sun-lovers for the warm spots, drought-resistant plants for the parched areas which may be either sunny or shaded, and swamp plants for the poorly-drained parts.

But wait! Test your soil first, to determine the pH level of your soil and what kind of nutrients you need to add, if any. Is the soil acid or alkaline? Most plants prefer soil that is slightly acidic, but there are some that must have alkaline soil to grow. You can alter the soil's pH level, but it's much easier to simply plant for the soil you have.

Now you are ready to plant. Well - almost. Will you plant in groups or singly? If you buy 'one of everything' your garden may seem rather spotty. Group plantings are organised, harmonious and you can vary the color for interest.

Before planting out, place your chosen plants around the garden bed in their pots to see how they will look. Re-arrange them until you are satisfied. Grouping plants in sets of threes or fives usually looks better than planting in groups of even numbers. Be sure that you have an interesting combination of colors and textures of plants. Tall plants should go to the back, or the centre if your garden will be viewed equally from all sides. Try to keep your plants away from trees. The roots of trees are fiercely competitive and will steal all the nutrients and moisture meant for your flowers.

The right color scheme is one way to maintain the harmony in your garden. Imagine the color of the flowers when they are in bloom. Some colors may clash with others, but can still be planted side-by-side if they have a different blooming season. Foliage color is also important. Many flower plants have silver, grey or purplish foliage that is just as attractive as the flower. This means that they are still attractive well past the blooming season and so have added value.

Gardening Tips: Avoiding Summertime Fungus

2009-01-06T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Carlo Morelli

Article: Summertime is a time of great joy for the gardening enthusiast. He gets to gaze on his garden in it's full glory and show off the fruits of her efforts. Unfortunately, it is no time to rest on your laurels, as it were, because this is one of the times of year that funguses can take hold and destroy your plants. These type of plant diseases thrive on moisture and humidity, so they can quickly get out of hand.

Avoid Evening Watering

During summer, many climate zones are subjected to high humidity, which might result in lots of problems in your garden. To get your plants nice and dry, tuck them in for night nice and dry. In other words, watering in the evening should be avoided to prevent damage to the plants.

Plan for Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew is a common fungus mostly affecting ornamental plants. This fungal growth creates a white film on the leaves of the plants in your garden. It can be partially removed by rubbing the leaves, but unless you only have a few plants this isn't a very effective remedy. You should begin by applying a fungicide product containing Bacillus subtilis, jojoba oil, sulfur or lime sulfur when the initial white patches are observed. This fungus also favors closely spaced plants, densely growing plants, and shady areas. So take this into account when planning your garden layout if your summer climate has high humidity.

Prevention of Pythium Blight

If you're in the north, and have perennial Rye grass, then you need to be careful not to leave your grass wet at night. A fungus called Pythium Blight may take hold, because this fungus love to grow in high humid conditions, especially at night. If uncontrolled, this disease can cause large areas of turf to wilt, turn brown and die. Pythium blight can be readily seen in the early morning on the top of the lawn as a white cotton candy-like growth. Pythium blight can easily be controlled by watering in the day at the earliest possible time. Other preventative measures include removing thatch periodically, avoiding overly thick growth by moderating use of fertilizers and improving soil drainage through aeration.

Fire Blight

Fire Blight, yet another culprit that likes to grow during summer months. This fungus attacks Pear, crabapple and Apple trees. Fire Blight can be seen as a blossom blight a week or two after the blooming, which turns black on pear and brown on apple trees, causing the whole blossom cluster to wilt and die. Antibiotic sprays are quite successful in countering the blossom blight phase of Fire Blight.

Fire Blight can also be controlled by overwinter pruning of affected branches from the main plant. Cuts should be made at least four inches below the affected areas, which can be detected by dead bark. Don't forget the Fire Blight is contagious, so any prunings should be burnt, and pruning shears should be washed or dipped in alcohol.

Garden design planning

2009-01-05T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Rita Hutner

Article: Good garden design starts with thinking before digging.

Garden design takes time

It's too late to plan your garden when you are standing in the nursery eyeing every new plant that tempts you. Spend some time looking at your garden site, either during the off season, when you can really view it objectively or during the growing season, when your successes and failures make themselves known.

Once you have an idea of how you are going to use your garden, come back to reality and take an objective look at the site before you come up with your garden design. This is of utmost importance in determining which plants and trees you use to achieve the desired effect. Monitor it during different times of the day and year. How many hours of sun does the site receive? What times of day is it sunny? Does sun exposure change with the seasons? Do trees allow sun in the spring and shade during summer? How is the soil, as far as pH and texture? Link to amendments Are there structures or large trees that will affect plant growth and selection? Are there structures nearby that you would like to camouflage? What plants are already growing there?

You know what you want to use your garden for, what you are working with and what resources you can devote to it. Now, what do you want it to look like?

Formal or informal? Wild? Should it complement your house? Do you want it to flow with the natural landscape? Do you favor soft pastels or bold tropicals?

All these things might seem overwhelming, but you'll be saving yourself a lot of time and a considerable amount of money if you take this advice and you'll find that each step gets easier and more fun. Plant selection should be one of the last things you consider, or you may be overwhelmed trying to create a garden design to accommodate the dozens (or hundreds or even thousands) of plants you crave.

Before you buy that first plant, you have to know what your planting zone is. Without that knowledge, you can end up ordering all sorts of wonderful looking plants and shrubs only to find that they are not suitable for your planting zone and they will die. You will have spent time and money needlessly. If you're buying by catalog or online, every plant and seed catalog or online merchant should show a planting zone map and each plant depicted should have an indication of the zones in which that particular plant (or tree, etc.) will thrive. You can also contact your local garden clubs or your county's Agriculture Extension Bureau with your questions regarding the suitability and care of plants for your particular area. This knowledge is of critical importance, particularly if you have moved from one zone to another. Not only will you save money, but you will avoid countless hours of frustrating work in your garden.

Keep in mind what your garden will be used for and when. This is important in your plant consideration. If you plan to entertain a lot and don't want to spend all summer on chores, look for lower maintenance plants that don't require constant deadheading and staking to look good and, if you are planting for small children, choose plants that will bloom at their eye level, with interesting textures and scents and non-poisonous flowers and seeds.

Make a list of the plants you like and group them by color, texture and form - the garden design triumvirate. Also chart them by season of bloom and/or interest. Consider both flowers and foliage. There are more and more plants being bred with colorful foliage that will provide interest in the garden all season.

Be sure to include some large anchor plants that will look good all year. These are usually shrubs and often evergreens. Most gardens can only accommodate 1 or 2 trees or shrubs, but they are important for providing the good bones of the garden and you want to choose wisely at the beginning. Trees and shrubs can be very difficult and heavy to move around.

Planting bulbs for added beauty

A wonderful way to use bulbs effectively is to naturalize daffodils in a wooded area or group them for colorful accent around evergreen shrubs. High quality Dutch flower bulbs can be ordered online from reputable catalogers and merchants who will advise you as to what's appropriate for your zone.

Plan ahead when planting bulbs; i.e., for spring flowering you plant in the Fall. Follow directions accompanying your bulbs regarding depth (usually six inches) and fertilizer (there are special bulb fertilizers that should be put in the planting holes). An important reminder - again: Know your planting zone before ordering any bulbs. They all look so beautiful in the catalogs,but what grows well in the midwest, in most instances, will not grow in South Florida! Special tools for planting bulbs are also available online. They make digging holdes so much easier than using a simple trowel. Check them out.

Happy planting!

About the author: Rita Hutner is a copywriter for Catalogs.com. Catalogs.com is the Internet's leading source for print and online catalog shopping - and a growing hub of original content and ""how to"" information at <a href=http://www.catalogs.com>www.catalogs.com</a>

Planting the Sunset Red Maple Tree

2009-01-04T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: B Hirst

Article: Sunset Red Maple trees are fairly easy to plant because they are fairly rugged and durable. Yet to plant or transplant them you do need to follow some basic guidelines. These trees are similar in planting to Autum Flame and October Glory maple. Red Maples are sometimes known as Swamp Maples. This name gives away its habitat being located naturally in moist areas of open woodlands and commonly along creeks and bottomlands. These soils are constantly moist to wet. Red Maples are found throughout the North Eastern States.These trees when grown in the open reach 70 feet tall by 40 feet wide. This tree is sturdier than the Silver Maple and is a delight to own in back yard as a shade tree.

On of our finest selections is the Sunset Red Maple. The Sunset Red Maple tree is a fast growing hybrid red maple tree. This Acer rubrum cultivar was developed by J. Frank Schmidt and Son Nursery. A Red Sunset red maple is one of the finest trees you can plant at your home. Red Sunset foliage is a lustrous green in the summer, which changes to brilliant shades of red and orange-red in the fall. We have a large selection of liners and some 2"" caliper stock ready for your selection.

All people handling seedlings and small trees need to help with the life support of your plants. Seedlings are like fish out of water and need care which is often overlooked between the time the seedlings are lifted and transplanted. Improper care means higher mortality. Do not try and reinvent the wheel. You must protect seedling from moisture and temperature extremes, as well as physical damage. Seedlings are living and should be handled carefully. For a higher survival rate, treat trees carefully and plant them immediately. I like to have a backup plan for planting if the weather turns bad. I will sometimes switch from lining out the seedlings to potting them up if I realize that the soil conditions will not be right for an extended lenght of time. If planting must be delayed a few days, keep the plants in a cold, protected place with air circulation between the trees. Keep the trees out of the rain and wind. To check if the trees need water, feel the media at the roots.. If it isn't damp, water the trees and allow the excess water to drain. In cool, damp weather, the biggest threat to these trees is from mold. Try to keep out of soil seedlings moist by either restricting water loss with a water vapor barrier or by wetting the roots at regular intervals. While handling or planting try to reduce temperature and air movement around the seedlings. Windy days can dry out seedlings so consider waiting for calmer weather. Once your soil conditions are correct OUR FREE USE PLANTERS will make planting a snap so its will be worth waiting for good planting conditions.

HOW TO PLANT

Ideal planting days are cool and cloudy with little or no wind. If possible, avoid planting on warm, windy days. The soil should be moist not wet. Care in planting is more important than speed. Make sure the roots are never allowed to become dry. Bare root seedlings should be carried in a waterproof bag or bucket with plenty of moist material packed around the roots to keep them damp. Ideally, bare root boxes should be kept refrigerated or packed in ice or snow. Don't freeze the trees. Competition from weeds, grass, brush or other trees is very detrimental to survival and growth of seedlings. Choose areas free from this competition or clear at least a three-foot square bare spot before planting. Seedlings should not be planted under the crown of existing trees, or closer than 6 feet to existing brush. Avoid areas near walnut trees. Brush aside loose organic material such as leaves, grass, etc., from the planting spot to expose mineral soil. If organic matter gets into the planting hole, it can decompose and leave air spaces. Roots will dry out when they grow into these spaces. Open up the hole, making sure the hole is deep enough for the roots to be fully extended. If roots are curled or bunched up, the tree will not be able to take up water correctly, will often weaken and die, or may blow down later due to poor root structure. Take a tree out of your planting bag or bucket only after a hole is ready. When exposed, the fine roots can dry out in as little as 30 seconds. Seedling shoots and roots lose water to air, roots require more protecting.Unlike leaves ,they do not have stomata (closeable openings on the surface of the leaves) or any waxy coatings to help reduce water loss. If the roots apear dry they are probably dead. Now I know you are thinking,""I will place them in a buckect of water and store them there until planting"". This will not work. Submerge plants for no longer that a couple of minutes. Placing them in water cuts them off from oxygen. Remember to remove the container before planting a containerized tree. A helpful hint to all those new gardeners just starting is to remember to always plant green side up. Hold the seedling in place in the hole, making sure the roots are straight, fully extended and that the tree is neither too shallow or too deep in the hole. Fill hole, allowing soil to fall in around the roots. Tamp with hands or with your heel. Don't crush the roots by jumping up and down around the seedling like there is a snake curled up around the seedling. It is delicate. Fill with more soil, if necessary, and tamp. Tamping is important. If soil is not firmly packed around the roots, there will be air pockets that can dry out the roots, and the seedlings may be weakly anchored. It is far easier to plant the tree strait up then have the tree leaning and have to adjust the tree later. (Addition of fertilizer and plant vitamins at the time of planting is not generally necessary.) Take your time in planting. Proper spacing will help you grow a more valuable crop. I have tried to get more production from a limited area by over planting and then thinning, but I always have had trouble in harvesting .... digging is slower and poor quality usually results for a portion of the crop. Avoid these tree planting errors:

About the author: Bill has been raising and selling trees on his tree farm in Doylestown Pa. for over 25 years.

January Gardening Thoughts

2009-01-03T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: Bill Hirst

Article: I look forward each day durring the winter. To some, lamenting the past days of fall with its bright foliage in the landscape, and feeling down that the dull days of winter are here. For me I have grown to appreciate each day and look forward to interests in landscapes that are there knowing that many dazzeling displays can be found by careful observation. The days are short and the nights are long. Yet growing plants and enjoying plants are year round activities that bring many quality hours of enjoyment.

Watering plants can be be on your list of things to do. Make it a point to get out and check on your plants. The ground may not be frozen and plants still use water. If the ground is not frozen you can still water if the ground will accept the water. Most plants are dormant so the amount of watering is not as high as in the hotter seasons. Evergreens lose water through their needles in the winter. So if one keeps watering as long as possible into the winter, seedlings and plants will suffer less stress. Winter drying of evergreens is a major stress factor in overwintering.

Snow and ice on your plants can be problematic. Tall thin plants are not as sturdy a plant. They tend to bend under snow loads and may require staking later to train them strait. If your small plants have a light amount of snow covering them you may ease the snow burden by lightly sweeping the snow with a broom. Don't shake them, they are like babies ... they get shaken baby syndrome. If snow or ice is frozen to the branches, allow it to melt rather than attempting to correct. If any branches are broken, you probably don't need to do anything unless there is a split in the trunk. If the breakage of the plant is sever, the seedling or liner shoud be discarded. The labor to correct is not worth the value of the plant. Also a poor quality seedling will probably be a poor quality mature plant. There is a market for such plants however, we have had many customers who want, "" Charly Brown Trees"" or stunted trees for unusual customer needs.

Warm spells in the winter occur. Suddenly, there can be days of warmer temperatures. This should not be a problem. When a warm spell occurs, get out and use some shoe leather and wear out those leather gloves. Its a great to have a break in mid winter and you can prepare for spring. If you have covering on or over the plants, you may need to ventilate. We normally open the doors to our greenhoses and this is usually all that is necessary. Cold frame temps may rise so ventilation will be helpful. Close up as nightfall arrives as the temperature will fall. Note that when sunlight intensity is high, plant tissues become active. Water loss at this time can't be replaced if the root are frozen. This is called plant desiccation. Also if there many freeze-thaw cycles, the crown of the plant will be heaved up exposing the roots. Root systems have a lower tolerance to temperature extremes and can killed by freezing low temperatures.A common way to prevent desiccation is to screen plants in exposed areas with Burlap .

Varmit control is important in the winter. Mice and rabbits feed constantly . Their teeth grow constantly and they love to chew on tender plants. We spread rat and mice bait about every two to threes weeks as long as we see it being consumed. Try and place the baits in a place where its easy to moniter, dry, and accessable only to the varmits. When the snow gets deep mice will feed up higher on the plants. They don't like to dig in the snow for food. They take the easy to reach food first. Thus tracks in the snow are an important sign to watch for. Mouse damage is usually not correctable. You may not see root feeding damage to stock till spring, so over baiting is the best solution. Care should be taken that the baits are only available to the target varmit. Viburnums are the most attractive, versatile, adaptable shrubs for any landscape. They can be used as hedges or screens and in mixed perennial/shrub borders. They can also stand alone as specimen plants. They usually take the form of shrubs, but some species can become small ornamental trees. They range in size from the Dwarf American Cranberrybush at 2 feet tall by 2 feet wide, to the Siebold at over 15 feet tall.

We feel that Viburnums are plants that have great winter interest. All Viburnums have white to pink flowers in the spring. The foliage is large, attractive and often textured leaves. Some viburnums have fragrant flowers that are produced in snowball shaped clusters in April. Their flower clusters can consist of pink buds, which develop into white flowers. Some fruits are red and turn black with age usually bitter tasting. Leaves can be glossy, dark green and turn a burgundy color in the fall. Midsummer berries are an important food source for birds. Viburnums have colorful red to purple leaves. Some viburnums can become medium-size trees, especially if they are pruned. Viburnums excel as specimen plants or as anchors in mixed borders. You won't find a more versatile group of shrubs for hedges or for massing in groups, since viburnums hold their own in every season. Some viburnums, such as Prague viburnum 'Pragense', are evergreen. Others, such as leatherleaf viburnum, are semi-evergreen in colder climates, losing their leaves when temperatures dip below 10 degrees.

The great feature of Viburnums is that they are adaptabe. While they would like full sun and moderately watered, well-drained rich soils, they will grow very well in part shade, and in clay soils. Diseases and pests rarely attack them and they don't tend to have to be spayed. My kids have run over them with brush hogs and they survived. Their fibrous root system makes them transplant easily.

In your search for a good, hardy shrub with winter interest consider the Viburnum family.

Viburnums have long been popular garden plants, known for their white, sometimes fragrant spring flowers, and their fall color. But it's the Asian viburnums that have so far been most noteworthy. Perhaps the most liked viburnums are the Burkwood viburnum (Viburnum x burkwoodii), and the Korean spice viburnum (V. carlesii), both of which fill your landscape with pleasant odors in the spring. Also popular is the doublefile viburnum (V. plicatum f. tomentosum), valued for its layered habit, fall foliage, and clusters of red fruits. Viburnum acerifolium (Maple-leafed viburnum) Although I wouldn't plant a landscape without viburnums, I have a special fondness for several of our native viburnums. They may not provide the great flower fragrance of their Asian counterparts, but I love them not only for their rich fall colors ,but for that fact they help attract and feed so many of our wild birds that liven up our landscape durring the long winter. In addition, several are great for urban conditions. They require only corrective pruning, and seldom commonly suffer from pests or diseases. I would be hard pressed to say which viburnum I would choose if I could only have one.

Viburnums are moist woodland plants. In nature they are found along steam banks from Long Island to Florida. When you come to our 5275 West Swamp Rd. location ask us to show some in their native habitat that we found along our stream bank. These plants perform well under normal landscape conditions. I especially like the floral display in the spring and these viburnums that bear fruit in the fall. Winterthur has great red leaves and abundant fruit in the fall. This cultivar needs a cross pollinator such as viburnum nudum. If you want things to do in the winter this is when I cut back our viburnums. Pressing issues of the other seasons always leaves my viburnums to stand alone untouched. It is mid winter and I always enjoy trimming back these plants then. I see all the nests that the birds haver built and can work without disturbing their families. It seems to me that it is easier to cut back and trim now for I always feel bad in the summer when I trim out green foliage. When trimming foliage I always guilty cutting greens off of the plants. Wintertime frees me from those demons. You can see more out plants at the following web site http://www.seedlingsrus.com

About the author: Bill has been raising plants and trees for 25 years on his farm in Fountainville Pa.

Benefits Of Gardening For Kids

2009-01-02T03:01:00.001-08:00

Author: Nicky Pilkington

Article: Apparently, we can see how nature is treated these days. It is a sad thing to know that people do not pay attention so much anymore to the environmental problems. What can we do about this? It's as simple as starting with the children. It is good to see the children's involvement with environment-friendly activities. One such nature-loving activity that children could easily get their hands on is gardening. Why should you consider gardening for your children?

Here are the benefits that gardening could easily provide the children with:

1. Science

In planting, children are indirectly taught the wonders of science like the plant's life cycle and how human's intervention can break or make the environment. They can have a first hand experience on the miracle of life through a seed. This would definitely be a new and enjoyable experience for the kids.

2. Life

Watching a seed grow into a tree is just as wondrous as the conception to birth and growth of a child. In time, kids will learn to love their plants and appreciate the life in them. Gardening could actually help simulate how life should be treated -- it should be with care. The necessities to live will be emphasized to kids with the help of gardening - water, sunlight, air, soil. Those necessities could easily be corresponded to human necessities, i.e., water, shelter, air, food. By simply weeding out, one could educate how bad influences should be avoided to be able to live life smoothly.

3. Relaxation

Studies show that gardening can reduce stress because of its calming effect. This is applicable to any age group. More so, it stimulates all the five senses. Believe it or not, gardening may be used as therapy to children who have been abused or those who are members of broken homes. It helps build one's self-esteem.

4. Quality Time with the Family

You can forget about your stressful work life for a while be soothed by the lovely ambience in the garden. You can play and spend quality time with your children. You can talk while watering the plants or you can work quietly beside each other. The bottom line is, always do what you have to do, together with your kids. You might discover a lot of new things about your child while mingling with them in your garden.

Let kids become aware of their environment's needs. And one way to jumpstart that environmental education may be through gardening. It's hitting two birds with one stone -- teach them to respect life while you bond with them.

Butterfly Gardening

2008-12-31T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Nicky Pilkington

Article: What is butterfly gardening? Simply put butterfly gardening is the art of growing flowers and plants that will attract these colorful and dainty creatures to your garden. Delight your family and visitors with beautiful butterflies, but be sure to create a safe habitat for them. If you own cats rethink your plans, because it would be a shame to attract these lovely insects to their death.

The design your butterfly garden is a matter of personal preference. Typical points to consider are the size of your garden and the types of flowers and plants you want to grow. Pick a style of garden that appeals to you, but ensure it also contains the plants and flowers that appeal to the butterflies you wish to attract.

It is important to find out which plants and flowers will attract the species of butterflies. that live in your area. This information can be found at the local library To create the kind of environment that they find attractive, you will also need water of some kind. A birdbath will look attractive and keep the butterflies up off the ground, away from stray cats or mischievous puppies. A shallow dish on a post or hung in a tree will do just as well.

When planting your butterfly garden be careful how you coordinate the colors you choose for your flowerbeds. Although butterflies do not care about your choice of color, you don't want your garden to be a hodgepodge of unrelated colors and textures. Butterflies are attracted to those flowers that have nectar rather than pollen, like honeysuckle, milkweed, summer lilac, Valerian, daisies, Purple Coneflower, Yellow Sage, day lilies and lavender.

Some people find it helpful to draw and color a layout of their butterfly gardening plan to see what the finished product would look like. Keep in mind that warm colors like red and orange are flashy and showy. These colors have a greater impact against a strong green background. Cool colors such as blue and purple are soothing and toned down and would work better with a white contrast to create the look of freshness and brightness.

Gardening's Most Valuable Advice

2008-12-30T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Nicky Pilkington

Article: Many people may not be aware that gardening can actually harm the environment. A large amount of carbon dioxide can be released through tilling the soil. This contributes to global warming. When you cultivating and compacting the soil, destroys good fungi. Fertilizers like nitrogen and manure often leach out of the soil and pollute the water you drink.

Global warming

Did you know that the earth's soil gives out carbon dioxide in the atmosphere 10 times more than all human activity? This comes from the pill bugs, microbes, fungi and worms when they breathe, digest food and then die. Although in the past plants have been capable of absorbing carbon dioxide caused by small-scale tillages, this isn't the case nowadays.

The increase of the globe's average temperature is because of the carbon dioxide the soil emits when tilled. The good news is that tilling can be minimized by mulching or sheet composting.

Good Fungi

In untilled soil, there is beneficial fungi known as the vesicular-arbuscular-mycorrhizae or VAM for short. VAM actually forms a symbiotic relationship with plants. Their filaments increase root hairs and provide nutrients to the plant. They give out zinc, copper, potassium and phosphorus. Plants provide carbohydrates for the fungi in return. It is possible to grow a garden without tilling the sooiil at all by mulching heavily until the soil is soft and friable.

Surplus Nitrogen

Many gardeners waste nitrogen and manures; farmers do otherwise. Farmers only need a quarter to a third of nitrogen to mix with an inch of compost, horse, or cow manure. Kate Burroughs of Sebastopol California, uses the same rule for her home-grown lettuce and sweet corns. When it comes to broccoli and pear trees, farmers only need a small amount. Notice that gardeners apply larger amounts of compost and manure than farmers. Obviously, they are not only wasting their fertilizer but also their money.

The best gardening advice that can be given to those concerned is to do all things with moderation. Keep in mind that too little and too much of something is not healthy. This is the most valuable advice one can have in gardening.

Gardening Gifts for All Occasions

2008-12-29T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Nicky Pilkington

Article: There is nothing nicer than receiving a gift relating to one's passion. If your loved one's passion is gardening, then show your thoughtfulness by giving a gift that will be truly appreciated.

There are so many great gardening gifts that the only constraint is your own budget.

If your budget is small, go for things like gloves, kneepads or even a shady hat. A pretty pot (or a watering-can) filled with a small bag of potting mix, a packet of bulbs, some gloves and a small trowel or other tool will be received with delight by most gardeners. There are many hand tools at hardware stores that are reasonably priced.

If you feel that is too ordinary, how about a subscription to a gardening magazine? A tiny bit more expensive perhaps, but it will give twelve full months of delight. A book on gardening is another idea, but make sure your recipient does not already have the one you choose. Books are often heavily discounted at Christmas time, so you may get a bargain.

On the other hand, a pot that contains a flowering plant is usually a welcomed gift. Be sure to choose a plant that is suited to your climate. Sometimes plants are sent from tropical to temperate zones and kept in artificial conditions in the store. These plants will not do well once taken from their environment. Shrub roses are hardy and attractive and grow in many climates. Tulips do best in the cooler climate.

If your budget is strong, a more expensive tool may be appropriate. A pull-trolley is easier to use than a wheelbarrow and, like some electric tools, is still not terribly expensive. Small electric tools such as whipper-snippers can retail for as little as $20.00. Or if your friend has a hose but not a hose reel, then that would be a more useful gift that he would truly appreciate.

Automatic lawn mowers, electric cultivators, hedge trimmers and brush cutters are in the more expensive price range and you are the only one who can decide whether that is an appropriate gift. However, when the recipient realizes you have given a gift that complements his passion, expensive or not, it will certainly become the best gift your friend has ever received.

Online Gardening Catalogs At Your Disposal

2008-12-28T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: George Hapgood

Article: Are you searching for reading materials regarding gardening? What kind of gardening and plants do you prefer to read about? There is a wide selection of gardening catalogs available online. To facilitate your search for sources, here are a few online gardening catalogs and websites that offer gardening catalogs that they can easily ship to your place:

1. <A HREF=http://www.jacksonsnurseries.co.uk>http://www.jacksonsnurser ies.co.uk</A>

Along with nursery facilities, they offer landscape designing, ground designing and wholesale. They claim that they have the best plant stock price since one will be dealing directly with the grower of the plant stocks.

2. <A HREF=http://www.mzbulb.com>http://www.mzbulb.com</A>

If you are looking for flower bulbs, McClure and Zimmerman have each and every variety. They have a no fuss website navigation that allows interested clients to easily order gardening catalogs.

3. <A HREF=http://www.gardennursery.com>http://www.gardennursery.com</A >

Nichols Garden Nursery online catalog unit offers supply of seeds and plants. Claiming that they do this for over 50 years already, they must be one of the best. They offer a 76 page free gardening catalog that could be easily ordered through filling up their catalog request form online.

4. <A HREF=http://www.gurneys.com>http://www.gurneys.com</A>

They offer great deals like when one orders one kind of plant, it may mean that one order means two plants. Gurney's also offer a no-risk guarantee and a scheduled shipping of orders according to categories of plants, i.e., roses, herbs, shrubs, and trees, tender annuals, and all other plants and bulbs. It even offers a zip code driven growing zone locator.

5. <A HREF=http://www.homeharvest.com>http://www.homeharvest.com</A>

Home Harvest Garden Supply offers alternative gardening products, i.e., organic fertilizers, hydroponics, natural insect controls, container, hobby greenhouse, propagation and irrigation supplies and indoor plant grow lights and other rare gardening supplies. They offer an online catalog for every gardening enthusiast.

6. <A HREF=http://www.jacksonandperkins.com>http://www.jacksonandperkin s.com</A>

Jackson and Perkins are known to be one of the best American gardening experts. They are reaching out to other gardening aficionados through their website offering gardening products that could easily be browsed through their catalog. Their product line includes a wide range of plants - new award-winning roses, easy to grow perennials to special outdoor decor. Flowering gifts may also be delivered to worthy recipients just by ordering from their site.

7. <A HREF=http://www.thegardenwindow.com>http://www.thegardenwindow.co m</A>

This site offers an online catalog that specializes in imported Chinese tree peonies (from Mainland, China).

Free online catalogs may be good source of gardening supply information. One just has to be fine with the light promotion of events and other products that may be sent to his email inbox every now and then.

About the author: You Too can have a green thumb. Visit Georges Blog here http://www.push-button-online-income.com/gardening

Make A Good First Impression: Landscape Your Driveway

2008-12-26T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Ron King

Article: Is your driveway landscaped? It should be.

This includes the driveway itself, as well as the design elements on both sides. All sorts of materials from softscape options to hardscape are available to make your driveway attractive.

Make A Good Entrance

As the entrance to your home, the driveway should not be neglected. It can either be a scar on the other landscaping around the home or it can add depth to the entire look of your home. You don't need to spend a lot of money on it either. You can be creative and choose attractive features, and have a very low cost landscape that is welcoming.

Make sure that you take everything into account before choosing your elements. For example, if you are looking for minimal work, do not plant a flower bush at the end of your driveway where the plants can be ruined by those in your neighborhood. Instead, use an attractive fence or a rock garden.

Another important aspect is the footpath to the home. Do not use any design elements that will be in the way of the normal foot traffic. You don't want to visitors going out of their way, or worse, trampling your plants to reach your door.

Hardscape Choice

You have many options -- common ones include walls and fences, which can add distinction and accent your driveway. A small fence can add character and color to the landscape. Use hanging baskets or lanterns on the fence for more charm.

A large rock can be especially interesting, particularly when it has multiple colors. You can plant grasses and small flowers in the cracks of stones to create even more decorative looks.

Softscape Choices

On a limited budget, just landscaping along the sides of the driveway is an excellent option. It will cost little, yet add lots of beauty to your landscape design.

As for softscape options appropriate to driveway areas, many things will work, such as a flower bed or groundcover along the driveway. This will create a border that is interesting and separates the lawn from the actual driveway.

Ornamental trees and shrubs can do the same thing along the edge of the driveway. Shrubs can be cut to become topiary, which will add even more design elements to the look of the driveway landscape.

Another thing to consider is the curved driveway. If your driveway has a curve in it, a great idea is to add a focal point -- something to make a statement. For example, you can have a beautiful tree, a flower bed, or a rock garden there. Whatever it is it should be beautiful because the curve will focus attention at that point of your driveway. You can use water gardens, a wishing well, as well as many other types of elements to enhance this area and have it look amazing.

Doing these landscaping operations can completely transform the entrance to your home. In a simple, affordable way, you can add character and depth to your landscape design around your driveway.

About the author: Visit <a href=""http://www.landscape-now.com"" target=""_blank""> Home Landscaping</a> to learn more. Ron King is a full-time researcher, writer, and web developer, visit his website at <a href=""http://www.ronxking.com"" target=""_blank""> Articles for authors</a>

Hydroponics Gardening

2008-12-25T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: Nicky Pilkington

Article: Hydroponics was derived from the Greek word hydro, which means ""water"" and ponos, which means ""labor or water-working"". Hydroponics gardening involves growing plants with their roots in other nutrient solutions and without soil.

Hydroponics gardening is as simple as ordinary gardening. Both of them necessitate sufficient light, water, temperature, light, and humidity. But with hydroponics, no soil is used. Instead a soil substitute holds the roots while nutrients are carried by the water. Indoor hydroponic gardening is not that hard and plants respond well to this method of growing.

This is one of the major considerations in hydroponics gardening since it sustains the plants. One has to make sure that this nutrient solution maintains a pH level of 5 to 6 after dilution. In hydroponics gardening, the plants should be watered more than three times a day. this is usually done using a pump and timer.

If your hydroponics garden is located indoors, the most suitable temperature is between 71 to 76 degrees Fahrenheit. Of course, this temperature may change depending on the different types of plant you are working on, e.g. tropical plants.

Place your plants somewhere they can receive ample amount of light. Otherwise artificial light must be used. High pressure Sodium lights or bulbs are a suitable substitute for natural light.

Humidity is good. When the room's temperature rises, the air will be able to hold the sufficient amount of moisture your plants will need.

A hydroponics system can be fully automated. Since it is water-based, the gardener has no soil to dig or weeds to pull. Also, the water can be re-used to prevent wastage.

With hydroponics, an excellent yield of quality plants can be easily achieved. Home hydroponics systems and DIY kits are are readily available in most hardware stores.

Buying flowers in bulk for best prices

2008-12-24T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: Carol

Article: In order to buy flowers at the best price you need to be looking at ways to get them in quantity. I have been involved in the floristry industry for several years and i my experience bulk buying is the key to the success in the industry. For hundreds of years there have been flower sellers in markets and i do believe that if more of the flower sellers got together they could command a better price from the suppliers and this would enable them to either make more profit or to pass on the savings to customers which could also lead to more profit due to more people being able to buy flowers at better prices.

The dutch market is best for buying in bulk as the dutch bulb fields are some of the most advanced in the world and holland produces some of the finest flowers. Of course we are not just talking about flowers here but more of the whole industry and the industry does need a bit of a shakeup as there are certain sellers that seem to want to make more money than is needed and also control the market which is not good for the end user and the person that actually drives the market. I have personally bought flowers from gasoline stations for very high prices and these flowers were almost dead which is not good as the prices are out of this world and you are in fact paying some of the highest prices for some of the worst flowers.

You may use this article as content for your site as long as you include a live link to http://www.wholesale-flowers.org/ with the keyword `Wholesale Flowers` over the link. Link as below. <a href=""http://www.wholesale-flowers.org/"">Wholesale Flowers</a>

About the author: Flower seller and author.

A Heartfelt, Natural Way To Lift Our Spirits

2008-12-23T03:01:00.000-08:00

Author: frank vanderlugt

Article: Flowers are a heartfelt, natural way to lift our spirits. They can provide a smile for a tired face or even brighten a room for a convalescent.

Just imagine your favorite flower. Are you smiling yet? You are definitely in a better mood. There isn't a doubt that beautiful surroundings provide us with a favorite environment that helps us thrive.

Flowers are a simple and affordable way to add a splash of color and emotion into your life. Tropical flowers are an exciting new change from traditional floral gifts like roses, and with modern shipping methods they are available worldwide.

Their large size and vibrant colors make them an impressive gift for favorite occasions like Mother's Day, Valentine's Day, birthdays and anniversaries. Flowers can be purchased from local florists or ""Grower Direct"" services that ship them worldwide.

If purchasing flowers to be shipped, make sure someone is waiting to accept the order and that they are not left with the mail on a back porch in the sun all afternoon until someone comes home from work.

Flowers are shipped without any water supply, and neglecting them for hours on top of the shipping time can take days off their lifespan.

If you buy tropical flowers like heliconias or gingers, or if you are lucky enough to live in the tropics and have them in your garden, here are a select few tips to help them thrive and to extend their shelf life as cut flowers.

Caring for Cut Tropical Flowers

one. Water your plants well and give them a large drink prior to cutting. This is significant for foliage plants as well because a few varieties ""drink"" incredibly little after cutting. Instead, they live off their stored sap.

Tropical plants have adapted to their natural environment which means frequent but short periods of heavy tropical downpour. Look at the flower heads and notice how the petals are ""cupped"" to catch and store as much water as possible. These plants drink from the top and like being showered with water.

Look at the pattern on the leaves. The ridges channel water down to the stem where it's absorbed into the many layers of the plant.

two. If your flowers have been out of water for any length of time after cutting, submerge them entirely in the bath for half an hour before placing them in a vase.

three. Cut three to four inches off the stem and then place them in a tall vase FULL of clean water.

four. Use a spray bottle to mist them at least twice a day.

five. Change the water and trim a new end on the stems every second or third day.

You are able to double the vase life of your cut flowers by applying these elementary techniques.

About the author: <a href=""http://www.flowers-now.info"">About Flowers and Love by Frank Vanderlugt</a>

Easy Tips On How To Care For Your Plants

2008-12-22T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: Nicky Pilkington

Article: Many people worry a lot when it comes to caring for their plants. When talking about house plants, there is no need to worry. There are just a few things you need to consider.

1. Watering Overwatering kills most houseplants. Looks can be deceptive, so to see if your soil is dry enough to water, try the finger test. Insert your index finger up to the first joint into the soil. If the soil is damp, don't water it.

2. Feeding Foliage plants usually have high nitrogen needs, while flowering plants, K2O is needed. Slow release fertilizers can be mixed with the compost. However, certain plants like cacti and orchids need special fertilizer. Feed plants during their most active growth period.

3. Lighting Plants like Sanseveria and Aspidistra require no sun. They can be placed away from a window. Spider plants need semi-shade. You can put plants like these near a window that does or does not get sunlight. Check the label to see what your plant needs.

4. Temperature Houseplants can survive in cool or warm temperatures, but drastic fluctuations of temperature may not be good for them. One thing that most plants cannot survive is gas heating. If you have a plant that likes warm conditions, don't put it near an air conditioner in the summer.

5. Humidity Some houseplants require a humid environment. One tip to maximize humidity is to put the pot inside a larger pot and fill in the gaps with stones or compost to keep in the moisture. Grouping plants together often creates a microclimate that they will benefit from. If you want, you can spray them with water once or twice a day depending on the temperature.

6. Re-potting Some plants require re-potting for optimum growth but there are others that resent having their roots disturbed. Or their roots system may be small enough that they don't require re-potting. One way to check if your plant needs re-potting is to turn it upside down. Tap the pot to release the plant and check its roots. If roots are all you see, then re-pot. Sometimes the roots will come out of the pot. You should either cut them off or re-pot the plant.

You just need to have a little care for your plants and in turn, you'll reap the benefits. Indoor plants not only add to the beauty of your décor, but also give much pleasure to the indoor gardener.

The Benefits of Landscaping

2008-12-21T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: David Dunlap

Article: How much have you thought about landscaping? Do you know that a beautiful and well put together lawn has many benefits? Landscaping is lawn art and, like any other art form, it takes time, patience, and research to get your methods just right. So, what other benefits does landscaping provide besides just being ""pretty""?

To begin with, landscaping can add value to your home and surrounding property. People will pay more for a home that looks nice and well maintained on the outside, as well as in, and home property values reflect that. The more your home is worth, the more equity it will have. We all strive to add value to our assets and this is an easy, enjoyable way to do a favor for yourself, your home, and your neighbors.

Landscaping can also be a good source of exercise, that is not vigorous or straining on your muscles. This is an additional aspect that becomes more important the older that you get. This may not be the case if you choose to lift heavy landscaping items, but there are many activities to keep you busy which are easy and manageable for anyone at almost any age.

Finally, the exercise you get from landscaping can also burn calories which may be important to you if you are trying to watch your weight or improve your cardiovascular performance.

As you can see, landscaping can offer many benefits both physically and financially. If you are new to landscaping, a simple search on the internet will give you many design ideas and techniques that you can start with today.

About the author: David Dunlap is the founder of The Landscaping Pro, an online resource directory designed to help with any sized landscaping project. For more information on <a href=""http://thelandscapingpro.com"">landscape lighting</a>, equipment and other resources, visit www.thelandscapingpro.com

Planting The Dura Heat and River Birch Trees

2008-12-20T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: Bill Hirst

Article: River Birch Trees are fairly easy to plant because they are fairly rugged and durable. Yet to plant or transplant them you do need to follow some basic guidelines. Two of the best cultivars or River Birch trees are Dura Heat and Heritage River Birches.

All people handling Dura Heat and Heritage River Birches seedlings and small trees need to help with the life support of your plants. Seedlings are like fish out of water and need care which is often overlooked between the time the seedlings are lifted and transplanted. Improper care means higher mortality. Do not try and reinvent the wheel. You must protect seedling from moisture and temperature extremes, as well as physical damage. Seedlings are living and should be handled carefully. For a higher survival rate, treat trees carefully and plant them immediately. I like to have a backup plan for planting if the weather turns bad. I will sometimes switch from lining out the seedlings to potting them up if I realize that the soil conditions will not be right for an extended lenght of time. If planting must be delayed a few days, keep the plants in a cold, protected place with air circulation between the trees. Keep the Dura Heat and Heritage River Birches trees out of the rain and wind. To check if the trees need water, feel the media at the roots.. If it isn't damp, water the trees and allow the excess water to drain. In cool, damp weather, the biggest threat to these trees is from mold. Try to keep out of soil seedlings moist by either restricting water loss with a water vapor barrier or by wetting the roots at regular intervals. While handling or planting try to reduce temperature and air movement around the seedlings. Windy days can dry out seedlings so consider waiting for calmer weather. Once your soil conditions are correct OUR FREE USE PLANTERS will make planting a snap so its will be worth waiting for good planting conditions.

HOW TO PLANT

Ideal planting days are cool and cloudy with little or no wind. If possible, avoid planting on warm, windy days. The soil should be moist not wet. Care in planting is more important than speed. Make sure the roots are never allowed to become dry. Bare root seedlings should be carried in a waterproof bag or bucket with plenty of moist material packed around the roots to keep them damp. Ideally, bare root boxes should be kept refrigerated or packed in ice or snow. Don't freeze the trees. Competition from weeds, grass, brush or other trees is very detrimental to survival and growth of seedlings. Choose areas free from this competition or clear at least a three-foot square bare spot before planting. Seedlings should not be planted under the crown of existing trees, or closer than 6 feet to existing brush. Avoid areas near walnut trees. Brush aside loose organic material such as leaves, grass, etc., from the planting spot to expose mineral soil. If organic matter gets into the planting hole, it can decompose and leave air spaces. Roots will dry out when they grow into these spaces. Open up the hole, making sure the hole is deep enough for the roots to be fully extended. If roots are curled or bunched up, the tree will not be able to take up water correctly, will often weaken and die, or may blow down later due to poor root structure. Take a tree out of your planting bag or bucket only after a hole is ready. When exposed, the fine roots can dry out in as little as 30 seconds. Seedling shoots and roots lose water to air, roots require more protecting.Unlike leaves ,they do not have stomata (closeable openings on the surface of the leaves) or any waxy coatings to help reduce water loss. If the Dura Heat and Heritage River Birches roots apear dry they are probably dead. Now I know you are thinking,""I will place them in a buckect of water and store them there until planting"". This will not work. Submerge plants for no longer that a couple of minutes. Placing them in water cuts them off from oxygen. Remember to remove the container before planting a containerized tree. A helpful hint to all those new gardeners just starting is to remember to always plant green side up. Hold the seedling in place in the hole, making sure the roots are straight, fully extended and that the tree is neither too shallow or too deep in the hole. Fill hole, allowing soil to fall in around the roots. Tamp with hands or with your heel. Don't crush the roots by jumping up and down around the seedling like there is a snake curled up around the seedling. It is delicate. Fill with more soil, if necessary, and tamp. Tamping is important. If soil is not firmly packed around the roots, there will be air pockets that can dry out the roots, and the seedlings may be weakly anchored. It is far easier to plant the tree strait up then have the tree leaning and have to adjust the tree later. (Addition of fertilizer and plant vitamins at the time of planting is not generally necessary.) Take your time in planting. Proper spacing will help you grow a more valuable crop. I have tried to get more production from a limited area by over planting and then thinning, but I always have had trouble in harvesting .... digging is slower and poor quality usually results for a portion of the crop. Avoid these tree planting errors:

http://seedlingsrus.com/Arborvitae.html

http://seedlingsrus.com/FreeFencing.html

http://seedlingsrus.com/Winter

http://zone5trees.com/Hedges

http://zone5trees.com/PlantingInstructions.html

http://zone5trees.com/ProfitsGrowingTrees.html

About the author: Bill has raised river birch trees on his 250 acre farm in Doylestown Pa. for 25 years. His web site include http://www.seedlingsrus.com and http://www.highlandhillfarm.com

Tips on Planting the Eastern White Pine

2008-12-19T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: B Hirst

Beyond their size, white pines also fill important ecological niches. They grow across broad ranges of forest and urban conditions, finding much of North America to their liking.

All people handling seedlings and small trees need to help with the life support of your plants. Seedlings are like fish out of water and need care which is often overlooked between the time the seedlings are lifted and transplanted. Improper care means higher mortality. Do not try and reinvent the wheel. You must protect seedling from moisture and temperature extremes, as well as physical damage. Seedlings are living and should be handled carefully. For a higher survival rate, treat trees carefully and plant them immediately. I like to have a backup plan for planting if the weather turns bad. I will sometimes switch from lining out the seedlings to potting them up if I realize that the soil conditions will not be right for an extended lenght of time. If planting must be delayed a few days, keep the plants in a cold, protected place with air circulation between the trees. Keep the trees out of the rain and wind. To check if the trees need water, feel the media at the roots.. If it isn't damp, water the trees and allow the excess water to drain. In cool, damp weather, the biggest threat to these trees is from mold. Try to keep out of soil seedlings moist by either restricting water loss with a water vapor barrier or by wetting the roots at regular intervals. While handling or planting try to reduce temperature and air movement around the seedlings. Windy days can dry out seedlings so consider waiting for calmer weather. Once your soil conditions are correct OUR FREE USE PLANTERS will make planting a snap so its will be worth waiting for good planting conditions.

HOW TO PLANT WHITE PINE TREES

Ideal planting days are cool and cloudy with little or no wind. If possible, avoid planting on warm, windy days. The soil should be moist not wet. Care in planting is more important than speed. Make sure the roots are never allowed to become dry. Bare root seedlings should be carried in a waterproof bag or bucket with plenty of moist material packed around the roots to keep them damp. Ideally, bare root boxes should be kept refrigerated or packed in ice or snow. Don't freeze the trees. Competition from weeds, grass, brush or other trees is very detrimental to survival and growth of seedlings. Choose areas free from this competition or clear at least a three-foot square bare spot before planting. Seedlings should not be planted under the crown of existing trees, or closer than 6 feet to existing brush. Avoid areas near walnut trees. Brush aside loose organic material such as leaves, grass, etc., from the planting spot to expose mineral soil. If organic matter gets into the planting hole, it can decompose and leave air spaces. Roots will dry out when they grow into these spaces. Open up the hole, making sure the hole is deep enough for the roots to be fully extended. If roots are curled or bunched up, the tree will not be able to take up water correctly, will often weaken and die, or may blow down later due to poor root structure. Take a tree out of your planting bag or bucket only after a hole is ready. When exposed, the fine roots can dry out in as little as 30 seconds. Seedling shoots and roots lose water to air, roots require more protecting.Unlike leaves ,they do not have stomata (closeable openings on the surface of the leaves) or any waxy coatings to help reduce water loss. If the roots apear dry they are probably dead. Now I know you are thinking,""I will place them in a buckect of water and store them there until planting"". This will not work. Submerge plants for no longer that a couple of minutes. Placing them in water cuts them off from oxygen. Remember to remove the container before planting a containerized tree. A helpful hint to all those new gardeners just starting is to remember to always plant green side up. Hold the seedling in place in the hole, making sure the roots are straight, fully extended and that the tree is neither too shallow or too deep in the hole. Fill hole, allowing soil to fall in around the roots. Tamp with hands or with your heel. Don't crush the roots by jumping up and down around the seedling like there is a snake curled up around the seedling. It is delicate. Fill with more soil, if necessary, and tamp. Tamping is important. If soil is not firmly packed around the roots, there will be air pockets that can dry out the roots, and the seedlings may be weakly anchored. It is far easier to plant the tree strait up then have the tree leaning and have to adjust the tree later. (Addition of fertilizer and plant vitamins at the time of planting is not generally necessary.) Take your time in planting. Proper spacing will help you grow a more valuable crop. I have tried to get more production from a limited area by over planting and then thinning, but I always have had trouble in harvesting .... digging is slower and poor quality usually results for a portion of the crop. Avoid these tree planting errors:

CARE OF PINE TREES FOLLOWING PLANTING Check periodically to be sure that brush, grass and other vegetation is kept under control by mowing, mulching, spraying or a combination of these treatments. Always obtain advice from a licensed pest control advisor before using chemicals. You ag extension agency may offer courses in application of chemicals. Monitoring the appearance of your trees will help you to detect signs of insects, diseases or other problems. Apperances also help sell your product. Look for foliage turning yellow, new foliage drooping or other signs of poor health. It is easier to take successful corrective action if the problem is detected early.

http://seedlingsrus.com/Arborvitae.html

http://seedlingsrus.com/FreeFencing.html

http://seedlingsrus.com/Winter

http://zone5trees.com/Hedges

http://zone5trees.com/PlantingInstructions.html

http://zone5trees.com/ProfitsGrowingTrees.html

About the author: Bill Raises and sells eastern white pines on his 250 acre trees farm in Doylestown Pa. his web sites include http://www.seedlingsrus.com and http://www.highlandhillfarm.com

EZ to Grow - The Eastern White Pine Tree

2008-12-18T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: B hirst

Article: Planting White Pine Trees an EZ to Grow Tree White pines. Whenever I think of white pines, I remember hunting when I was a kid and standing near trees that were giants. Now every pine tree I plant, I can invision those days in the deep woods and those grand trees and hope someone else will have that same enjoyment. These trees will help you too in establish a desired vision to your landscape.

Beyond their size, white pines also fill important ecological niches. They grow across broad ranges of forest and urban conditions, finding much of North America to their liking.

All people handling seedlings and small trees need to help with the life support of your plants. Seedlings are like fish out of water and need care which is often overlooked between the time the seedlings are lifted and transplanted. Improper care means higher mortality. Do not try and reinvent the wheel. You must protect seedling from moisture and temperature extremes, as well as physical damage. Seedlings are living and should be handled carefully. For a higher survival rate, treat trees carefully and plant them immediately. I like to have a backup plan for planting if the weather turns bad. I will sometimes switch from lining out the seedlings to potting them up if I realize that the soil conditions will not be right for an extended lenght of time. If planting must be delayed a few days, keep the plants in a cold, protected place with air circulation between the trees. Keep the trees out of the rain and wind. To check if the trees need water, feel the media at the roots.. If it isn't damp, water the trees and allow the excess water to drain. In cool, damp weather, the biggest threat to these trees is from mold. Try to keep out of soil seedlings moist by either restricting water loss with a water vapor barrier or by wetting the roots at regular intervals. While handling or planting try to reduce temperature and air movement around the seedlings. Windy days can dry out seedlings so consider waiting for calmer weather. Once your soil conditions are correct OUR FREE USE PLANTERS will make planting a snap so its will be worth waiting for good planting conditions.

HOW TO PLANT

Ideal planting days are cool and cloudy with little or no wind. If possible, avoid planting on warm, windy days. The soil should be moist not wet. Care in planting is more important than speed. Make sure the roots are never allowed to become dry. Bare root seedlings should be carried in a waterproof bag or bucket with plenty of moist material packed around the roots to keep them damp. Ideally, bare root boxes should be kept refrigerated or packed in ice or snow. Don't freeze the trees. Competition from weeds, grass, brush or other trees is very detrimental to survival and growth of seedlings. Choose areas free from this competition or clear at least a three-foot square bare spot before planting. Seedlings should not be planted under the crown of existing trees, or closer than 6 feet to existing brush. Avoid areas near walnut trees. Brush aside loose organic material such as leaves, grass, etc., from the planting spot to expose mineral soil. If organic matter gets into the planting hole, it can decompose and leave air spaces. Roots will dry out when they grow into these spaces. Open up the hole, making sure the hole is deep enough for the roots to be fully extended. If roots are curled or bunched up, the tree will not be able to take up water correctly, will often weaken and die, or may blow down later due to poor root structure. Take a tree out of your planting bag or bucket only after a hole is ready. When exposed, the fine roots can dry out in as little as 30 seconds. Seedling shoots and roots lose water to air, roots require more protecting.Unlike leaves ,they do not have stomata (closeable openings on the surface of the leaves) or any waxy coatings to help reduce water loss. If the roots apear dry they are probably dead. Now I know you are thinking,""I will place them in a buckect of water and store them there until planting"". This will not work. Submerge plants for no longer that a couple of minutes. Placing them in water cuts them off from oxygen. Remember to remove the container before planting a containerized tree. A helpful hint to all those new gardeners just starting is to remember to always plant green side up. Hold the seedling in place in the hole, making sure the roots are straight, fully extended and that the tree is neither too shallow or too deep in the hole. Fill hole, allowing soil to fall in around the roots. Tamp with hands or with your heel. Don't crush the roots by jumping up and down around the seedling like there is a snake curled up around the seedling. It is delicate. Fill with more soil, if necessary, and tamp. Tamping is important. If soil is not firmly packed around the roots, there will be air pockets that can dry out the roots, and the seedlings may be weakly anchored. It is far easier to plant the tree strait up then have the tree leaning and have to adjust the tree later. (Addition of fertilizer and plant vitamins at the time of planting is not generally necessary.) Take your time in planting. Proper spacing will help you grow a more valuable crop. I have tried to get more production from a limited area by over planting and then thinning, but I always have had trouble in harvesting .... digging is slower and poor quality usually results for a portion of the crop. Avoid these tree planting errors:

http://seedlingsrus.com/Arborvitae.html

http://seedlingsrus.com/FreeFencing.html

http://seedlingsrus.com/Winter

http://zone5trees.com/Hedges

http://zone5trees.com/PlantingInstructions.html

http://zone5trees.com/ProfitsGrowingTrees.html

About the author: Highland Hill Farm Has been growing the eastern white pine trees for 25 years Located in Doylestown Pa. just 25 miles norht of Philadelphia. Farm web sites are http://www.seedlingsrus.com and http://www.highlandhillfarm.com

The Benefits of Using Landscape Software

2008-12-17T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: David Dunlap

Article: If you enjoy making your yard as beautiful as it can be or if you own a landscaping service, you may want to consider investing in landscape software.

What is landscape software?

Landscape software allows you to come up with new designs for your landscaping needs and to view them as a finished product to decide if they are right for you. It can be a major asset to someone who does landscaping projects on a regular basis. It can also save you from a lot of time and hard work only to realize that what you have done to the area is not what you were looking for.

So how does landscape software work?

With landscape software you first take a digital photo of the area to be worked on. Once you have done that you upload the photo on to your computer and into the software program. It then allows you to use different special effects to see how the area will look using each option. Once you have decided how you want the area to look, you are done! You know that you will like the finished product because you have already seen it. Which means no more surprises!

How much will landscape software cost me?

Landscape software products range drastically according to who manufactures the product and what kind of features you want on it. They can be as low as $9.95 or as high as $49.99. Your best option is to look around and compare the different products out there and decide which one is right for you. You may even stumble across a couple that will give you a free trial to see if you like the software before you purchase it.

Landscape software is one of the best tools to help you get an idea of what your area will look like when you are finished with it. The relative low cost will be worth it in the end.

About the author: David Dunlap is the founder of Pure Landscaping, an online resource directory designed to help with any sized landscaping project. For more information on <a href=""http://purelandscaping.com"">landscape lighting</a>, equipment and other resources, visit www.purelandscaping.com

8 Tips To Get Your Kids Enjoy Home Gardening

2008-12-16T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: George Hapgood

Article: Dirt has always been one of the kids' best toys, so home gardening could just be one fun activity for your children. Excite them by allowing them to pick whichever plant they want to grow. Here are some tips to help you make your little ones become enthusiastic with home gardening.

1. Choose the right plants

Kids will more likely choose plants and flowers with bright colors, so have a load of varieties of plants. Examples of bright flowers are zinnias and cosmos; these will keep your children fascinated. Don't forget the sunflowers. Anything that is tall and fuzzy will surely overwhelm a kid. Make sure these plants will not cause any allergic reactions from your kid.

2. Starting seeds

Give your children the freedom to help you with the staring seeds. Some seeds might be too small for the tiny fingers, but their digits can be of help in covering them with dirt.

3. Home Gardening Memoir

To last the kids' enthusiasm until the plants grow, make them create a home gardening journal. This activity will allow them to use their imagination to sketch on what the plants will be like and write down when they placed in the ground the seeds and when they first witnessed a sprout pushing up.

4. Make sure that the garden is somewhere very visible for the kids.

Before you start home gardening, pick a spot where the kids often play or walk by. Every time they see and pass by their garden, the more they will sight changes.

5. Dirt playing

Always remember that children are fond of playing with dirt or mud. They can help you ready the soil, even if what they are only doing is stomping on the clumps. To make home gardening with the kids more fun, you can provide them with kid-sized tools to make home gardening very engaging for them.

6. Your kids own the garden

A picture of each plant will enable the children to foresee what the flowers will look like. You can also put your child's name on a placard, so everyone can see that it's their garden.

7. Playing with the water

Playing with water is right up there with playing with dirt. Look for a small watering can that they can use to water their garden. You can show them how to let the water go right to the roots of the plants. Hoses want only trouble. They are simply formidable for little hands to control.

8. Kids commit mistakes

Adults, too, are sometimes impatient. Give the kids full control to their garden. If they create a mess, let it be, it's their mess. Allow them to get pleasure from it and take dignity in their own piece of territory. Just don't forget to tell them how to clean up that mess.

About the author: You Too can have a green thumb. Visit Georges Blog here http://www.push-button-online-income.com/gardening

Three Choice Arborvitae For Your Landscape

2008-12-15T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: B hirst

Article: The Emerald Green, Hetz Midget and the Riengold Arborvitae are commonly used evergreen shrubs or trees useful in urban areas where low maintenance and durability is needed. Many cultivars with forms such as being globed in shape, columnar, or narrow pyramidal, tend to be near buildings, doors, and walkways. Other forms which are larger are used for screens and buffers that are planted in rows.

These plants fill many basic landscaping needs.

The form of arborvitae is small, medium, or large depending on the cultivar. Some reach 50', others only 3'. Most prefer full sun to partial sun. Planting in dense shade conditions should be avoided. A moist , well drained, loamy soil in full sunlight are ideal conditions for growing healthy arborvitae. These plants will tolerate rocky, clay, urban conditions of heat drought and pollution. The most important pest we have is bagworms which must be controlled to prevent complete defoliation. Some cultivars have multiple leaders which also prove to be a detraction for the plant. Pruning out multiple leaders in some cultivars is a simple remeady.

Our most popular Arborvitae is the Emerald Green arborvitae. Many people prefer to spell them Arbor Vitae . It is a bright light green color and narrow in shape. It makes a distinctive and impressive natural fence. It is easy to grow ,plant, and keep in shape.

The Hetz Midget arborvitae is a dwarf globe variety. This is a good choice for along walkways and gardens. This is a tough plant that is easy to install and not going to cost a lot. It will maintain its color in the winter and will withstand snow loads well. We carry these plants in 2 and 3 gal. pots. The prices on these dwarfs vary from $15 to $30 depending on size and quanity ordered.

Another small arborvitae that we grow in pots is the Rheingold arborvitae. This is a small globe shaped plant that has a golden green cast to it in the summer and a bronze winter color. We also have the American Arborvita known as ""Tiny Tim"".This arborvita grows in zone 2 - 7. Its is a needled evergreen in the Cupressaceae Family. It will grow in height from a half a foot to 1 foot tall. Its spread will be about 1 to 1.5 feet. This is a plant that requires little work. Selecting quality arborvitae for the home landscape :

When you get to the nursery or garden center where you will buy your arborvitae, pick out the healthiest, most robust plants that have no evidence of disease or insect damage. The potting medium should be moist, but not wet, and the roots should well dispersed in the medium. Arborvitae that have roots growing from the drainage holes or circling the top of the pot are less desirable. Many people choose to buy arbs from a mail order company, which is perfectly acceptable. However, realize that most woody plants purchased from mail order catalogs will be shipped dormant and bare root, that is, without any soil attached to the root system. Such plants may be smaller in size because of the expense of shipping. It is important to plant such material immediately upon arrival. Generally it is best to purchase one-year-old material from mail order companies since this material is more vigorous and will transplant better. The larger material that is offered is often composed of the less vigorous plants held over from previous years. Most large sized arbs are balled and burlaped. Don't buy any arbs bare rooted over 3' tall. Any plant larger should be balled and burlaped.

These are just afew of the arborvitae and trees that we raise on our Doylestown Pa. farm. We are pleased to show you these in the field and discuss their habits and help you determine the best plants to help you improve your landscape. Visit our other web sites at http://www.seedlingsrus.com and http://www.highlandhillfarm.com

About the author: Bill has been raising arborvitae on his 250 acre Doylestown Pa. farm for over 35 Years. He raises over a dozen varieties and sells to the public as well as to the landscape trade. You can see his web sites at http://www.seedlingsrus.com and http://www.highlandhillfarm.com

The Green Giant Arborvitae Story

2008-12-14T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: Bill Hirst

Article: The original Green Giant got its name not from ancient lore, but from unusually extra large, hence ""giant,"" green peas. These ""Green Giant Peas"" were introduced by the Minnesota Valley Canning Company in 1925, in contrast to their previously marketed LeSueur baby peas, early-picked in June. Founded in 1903, this pea company was located in the valley of the Minnesota River, the Dakota Sioux name for ""cloudy water,"" just southwest of Minneapolis and St. Paul, the state capital. This is where there's a ""confluence"" with the even cloudier and muddier Mississippi River giving the whole area, including the surrounding towns like LeSueur, the title of ""the Minnesota Valley."" Lesueur is the name of the original explorer of the area, a Frenchmen of the early 1700's. By 1950, the ""Jolly Green Giant"" was so popular, such an ""icon"" as we say today, with a cartoon character created, etc., he became the basis of the company's new name. So that is where Green Giant comes from, modern marketing, not ancient lore..

The Green Giant Arborvitae is more properly named by tree scientists the ""Thuja Plicata,"" with the other common historic names being, ""giant cedar,"" also ""western cedar,"" and ""red cedar."" There's only one other Arborvitae specie in all of North America, the ""eastern cedar,"" or ""white cedar,"" with ""Thuja Occidentalis,"" as the tree scientist's Latin name, the botanist's name. This short tree is actually what we usually think of when the ""genus"" juniper is mentioned.

Funny that the eastern cedar was given the Latin name for ""west"" which is ""occidental."" You see? As I have observed before, what's in a name? Highland Hill Farm is not located in a town called Highland Hills, or, on Highland Hill Road, etc. Scottish Highland Hills cows that we grazed on our first property provided our company with a distinctive name when we sold our first trees in 1978.

Green Giant Arborvitae ranges naturally all across the United States from Massachusetts, southwesterly to Texas and New Mexico, through northern Arizona, up the Sierra Nevada Mountains to the state of Washington, and British Columbia beyond.

What does arborvitae mean anyway? Now that we know about the derivation of ""Green Giant,"" here's how the Latin name Arborvitae, or ""tree of life,"" came about. As the first explorers of Canada were mapping the St. Lawrence River in 1536, the tree was used for medicine which saved their leader and most of the men too. Jacques Cartier explored the islands off eastern Canada, and then sailed westward where he entered the St. Lawrence River and found Quebec and a Royal Mountain (Mont Real, which is now called ""Montreal""). Cartier was searching for the passage to China so many other explorers would also fail to find. Cartier and his men had to spend a long winter inside a little fort, away from the any sun, where they subsisted on meat, fish, and bread, eating no fruits or vegetables. As scurvy was killing most all of them, a friendly Huron Indian gave Cartier's crew tea made from the needles and bark of a tree which looked like the white cedars of Europe. So Cartier took some trees back to France with him, these Thuja Occidentalis Eastern White Cedars, naming them ""Arborvitae,"" the tree of life. How about that?

Arborvitae are native to the pacific northwest where they grow to 200 feet tall, usually 50 to 70 feet is the common height, even including here in Bucks county. Arborvitae do best in wet forests and swamps. The Green Giant appearance is due to this specie's wide 15-25 foot wide base, the slightly tapering conical shape, and the dense branches and leaves casting great dark shadows. The Arborvitae grows in zones 6 to 8, environments with temperatures that get as low as 10 degrees below 0 Fahrenheit, such as in Missouri or Pennsylvania, to environments where winter temperatures get only as low as 20 degrees above 0 Fahrenheit, such as mid-Texas and northern Florida.

Green Giant Arborvitae have pretty, yet surprisingly tiny yellow flowers. The ""pine cones,"" the fruit actually, of the tree, follow the budding of the flowers and are also surprisingly small compared to the size of a mature tree, being no more than a half-inch in size. There are no problems with tree litter understandably, and so few animals are attracted to the Green Giant Arborvitae, perhaps because of this description.

The Green Giant Arborvitae is recommended for growing as a hedge or privacy buffer along a property line, or driveway. Thuja Plicata, Western Red Cedars are ideal ""windrow"" trees. In a row, they'll truly diminish the wind. The Green Giant Arborvitae is justifiably considered wind resistant considering the windswept mountains of the Pacific northwest. The wood itself is weak, but it is very light. Green Giant Arborvitae do have better deer resistance than most arborvitae. These trees have been planted in high deer population areas. On our farm in Doylestown we have lots of deer and do have damage the Emerald Green Arborvitae. The Green Giants are eaten by deer only an occasionally, a nibble here and there. Based on our own observations over the years we feel that the Green Giants will only be eaten by deer if there is no other feed available.

Now that you know all about 'em, Highland Hill Farm has at least 50 or more Green Giant Arborvitae in our nursery ready for pickup at any time. They will range from 1.5' to 12' and be balled and burlapped or potted. We also have field liners and seedling Green Giant available. There are many more varieties of arborvitae available which we have in stock. If we don't stock the variety you want we will find it for you if possible.

See Bills other web sites at http://www.seedlingsrus.com and http:www.zone5trees.com

About the author: Bill raises Green Giant Arborvitae on his 250 acre farm in Fountainville Pa. This farm is in the heart of Bucks County near Doylestown. He usually has samples on display at his nursery that you are welcome to visit. His web site is http://www.seedlingsrus.com

Garden Leaf Blowers - More Power to Your Elbow

2008-12-13T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: Leonard Mutch

Article: Garden leaf blowers are powered generally either by gas or electric. Our article below will guide you to make the best choice of leaf blower for your portability needs, and garden size.

Gas Leaf Blowers

These are more powerful (and noisier) than electric ones, and with a reach beyond the limits of an extension cord. Two-cycle engines require a mix of gas and oil. Gas powered leaf blowers are excellent where mobility and greater work output is required, but are unfortunately heavier than the electric models. Hand held leaf blowers - Useful only for small to medium yards where you need the power of a gas engine.. They can get heavy however after using for a while. Convenience and portability have their own price if you have backache! The bigger models can also vibrate a bit at top speed, so check the weight and balance. Look for air speeds higher than 150 mph and noise levels less than 70 decibels. (Make sure to check your local ordinances: as some areas limit noise to less than 65 decibels.) Backpack leaf blowers - these are best for driveways and bigger yards. Be sure to look out for an antivibration system and noise-squelching muffler to make carrying the engine bearable for long periods of time. The blower fits in a harness worn on the operator's back. Walk behind leaf blowers - these are better for large yards or big areas. I would look for a four cycle engine to give you more power and less emissions, and also a three wheeler if possible to make for easier steering. Walk behind leaf blowers cover the most acreage in the least time. These gas powered machines are normally the tool of choice for commercial users, but for regular homeowners, they can make short work of a home lawn.They will however be more expensive too! Vacuum units also use a hose for picking up debris and leaves.

Electric Leaf Blowers

These are less powerful than gas, but have the advantage of being lighter, with less vibration and quieter (you still need some protection for your hearing) -- and there are no exhaust fumes! as electricity drives the fan. The attached cord however, limits your mobility so this may not be the best choice for a lawn with lots of trees!. Look too, for a cord retention system to prevent the cord from being accidentally unplugged when being used. Also when selecting an extension cord to use with your electric leaf blower, remember that if the gauge used is too small or inadequate, the motor will not perform particularly well. Match the power rating of the tool to a compatible cord, and always buy a cord that is rated for outdoor use. Be Safe!

Handheld leaf blowers - these are best for smaller gardens, patios and walkways. Be on the lookout for one with a flexible blower tube to allow you to reach into corners! Combo leaf blower/vacuum - a great idea for small to medium gardens where you've not much room to pile your leaves. I would look out for one with a variable speed and mulcher built-in to the blower to help cut the leaf volume. Rechargeable/battery-operated leaf blowers - are a good alternative for small areas. Work well on solid surfaces like driveways and garages, but are limited because of their short run time and because they move less air than the larger corded models.

About the author: Leonard Mutch is a keen gardener and author. You can read more of his tips and articles at <a href=""http://www.gardenleafblower.com"">Leaf Blower</a>

Hetz,Reingold, and Emerald Green Arborvitae

2008-12-12T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: Bill Hirst

Article: Arborvitae are commonly used evergreen shrubs or trees useful in urban areas where low maintenance and durability is needed. Many cultivars with forms such as being globed in shape, columnar, or narrow pyramidal, tend to be near buildings, doors, and walkways. Other forms which are larger are used for screens and buffers that are planted in rows.

These plants fill many basic landscaping needs.

About the author: Bill has been raising arborvitae on his 250 acre farm for 35 years.His farm is located 25miles north of philadelphia in Fountainville Pa.. The farm sells wholesale and also retail trees, plants, and shrubs. His web sites include: http://www.seedlingsrus.com and http://www.zone5trees.com

Become an Urban Farmer and Start Growing Pot

2008-12-11T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: B Hirst

Article: Now that I have your attention, anyone can be a farmer. Even if you have to raise them in pots. You can too. I feel the best opportunity in agriculture is in raising plants and trees. Growing plants can be done almost anywhere. You don't have to have large fields and hundreds of acres. You have to have imagination. People who grow dope do it in cellars and in caves. Select plants to raise that you see being sold in quanity by local nurseries or garden centers. In our area arborvitae are in hot demand. These plants can be started from cuttings or you can buy rooted cuttings. Thousands can be grown in a 20'x20' area in small containers. Arborvitae are not the only plants that you can choose. Dwarf conifers and bonsai are other avenues to consider. The first thing to consider is what plants you like. They make a nice starting point. I like arborvitae. Plus they are easy to grow. There are many <a href=""http://seedlingsrus.com/Arborvitae.html"">types</a> that are available. These can be grown from <a href=""http://www.zone5trees.com/GrowYourOwnPlants.html"">cuttings< /a> or you can purchase rooted cutting or small liners. I suggest that you raise <a href=""http://www.seedlingsrus.com/EmeraldGreen.html"">Emerald Greens</a>. They are compact and very popular. A 2-3"" rooted cutting in 3 years should be 2' if growing conditions are optimal. These might sell for as much as $5-10 depending on your market and quality. If you were to raise 1000 of them that might be $5-10,000. You can market them just as I do on the internet. Being small you can ship them via UPS practically anywhere. An example of a plant that is not suitable for small plot urban farming is an Oak tree. It is very fast in growing (good), but has a big tap root, and is best marketed when over 6-8' tall. You will use up your space with a hard to confine, large tree that is not suitable for close compact container production. Shipping will also be more costly as starter plants tend to be larger hence larger shipping fees per tree. Besides I have sold many people 50 -100 arbs at a time but no one, 100 oaks at a time. My largest order for arbs to one homeowner was 265. Try to target plants that will sell multiples to a customer rather than just one at a time. If you target single plants to individual customers you need high value plants for your sales cost per unit will be higher. You will hear the same story from your customers about 1 plant as you will about 10 plants. I can tell you without a doubt that each customer will tell you about his property and his neighbors dog. I would rather hear the story once for each 10 plants that I sell. That is why I like plants that sell in multiples to a single customer. Additionally an unusual or exotic plant is seldom purched in quanity and the buyer has little knowledge of the plant. They will have many more questions about this plant. This translates to a higher amount of time spent on a smaller volume of product sold.

Arborvitae are commonly used evergreen shrubs or trees useful in urban areas where low maintenance and durability is needed. Many cultivars with forms such as being globed in shape, columnar, or narrow pyramidal, tend to be near buildings, doors, and walkways. Other forms which are larger are used for screens and buffers that are planted in rows. These plants will be easy to raise on your small urban lot.

The form of arborvitae is small, medium, or large depending on the cultivar. Some reach 50', others only 3'. Most prefer full sun to partial sun. Planting in dense shade conditions should be avoided. A moist , well drained, loamy soil in full sunlight are ideal conditions for growing healthy arborvitae. These plants will tolerate rocky, clay, urban conditions of heat drought and pollution. The most important pest we have is bagworms which must be controlled to prevent complete defoliation. Some cultivars have multiple leaders which also prove to be a detraction for the plant. Pruning out multiple leaders in some cultivars is a simple remeady. As you raise these plants if you find that you are selling more than you can raise on your property, an add in the newspaper such as, ""Wanted: land to grow trees on"" will help you find vacant parcels to use in growing more stock. This land may be free to use as many owners want in urban areas land to be used as it is then maintained. We have had many offers of free land to use in raising nursery stock. (You should check with your local BTK Code Enforcement Officer to make sure that this use is acceptable.) Another suggestion is that you work for another local urban grower. They may have facilities set up that they would allow you to use after hours. When they see that you are a willing go getter, they might even ask you to grow special plants that they don't want to grow because the volumes are light or they are to intensive in labor. At any rate it is the best way to learn the trade and its secrets. Most nurserymen will tell all their trade secrets because its the best way to help the industry and build a network of reliable and knowledgeable associates. See my web site at http://www.seedlingsrus.com

About the author: Bill has been growing Arborvitae for 25 years on his Doylestown Pa. farm. See his web sit for more articles. http://www.seedlingsrus.com

How To Plant A Red Oak Tree

2008-12-10T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: B Hirst

Article: Planting Red Oak Trees Red Oak Trees. Whenever I think of Red Oak Trees, I remember hunting when I was a kid and standing near trees that were giants. Now every Red Oak tree I plant, I can invision those days in the deep woods and those grand trees and hope someone else will have that same enjoyment. These trees will help you too in establish a desired vision to your landscape.

Beyond their size, Red Oak Trees also fill important ecological niches. They grow across broad ranges of forest and urban conditions, finding much of North America to their liking.

Red Oak Trees need protection from deer, disease, insects, and competing weeds and shrubs. The better your weed control the better your trees will grow. When seedlings are planted, it best to plant them with large spacings to allow more light to the plant. If these trees are planted in shade, they tend to be more open. Red Oak Trees are used around new construction because they perform in a wide range of soil conditions. Threse trees can take wetter soils than most trees and are many time found in native areas near creek or river banks.If you have compacted soil from new construction, we suggest smaller trees of 3-5' height.

All people handling seedlings and small trees need to help with the life support of your plants. Seedlings are like fish out of water and need care which is often overlooked between the time the seedlings are lifted and transplanted. Improper care means higher mortality. Do not try and reinvent the wheel. You must protect seedling from moisture and temperature extremes, as well as physical damage. Seedlings are living and should be handled carefully. For a higher survival rate, treat trees carefully and plant them immediately. I like to have a backup plan for planting if the weather turns bad. I will sometimes switch from lining out the seedlings to potting them up if I realize that the soil conditions will not be right for an extended lenght of time. If planting must be delayed a few days, keep the plants in a cold, protected place with air circulation between the trees. Keep the trees out of the rain and wind. To check if the trees need water, feel the media at the roots.. If it isn't damp, water the trees and allow the excess water to drain. In cool, damp weather, the biggest threat to these trees is from mold. Try to keep out of soil seedlings moist by either restricting water loss with a water vapor barrier or by wetting the roots at regular intervals. While handling or planting try to reduce temperature and air movement around the seedlings. Windy days can dry out seedlings so consider waiting for calmer weather. Once your soil conditions are correct OUR FREE USE PLANTERS will make planting a snap so its will be worth waiting for good planting conditions.

HOW TO PLANT

Ideal planting days are cool and cloudy with little or no wind. If possible, avoid planting on warm, windy days. The soil should be moist not wet. Care in planting is more important than speed. Make sure the roots are never allowed to become dry. Bare root seedlings should be carried in a waterproof bag or bucket with plenty of moist material packed around the roots to keep them damp. Ideally, bare root boxes should be kept refrigerated or packed in ice or snow. Don't freeze the trees. Competition from weeds, grass, brush or other trees is very detrimental to survival and growth of seedlings. Choose areas free from this competition or clear at least a three-foot square bare spot before planting. Seedlings should not be planted under the crown of existing trees, or closer than 6 feet to existing brush. Avoid areas near walnut trees. Brush aside loose organic material such as leaves, grass, etc., from the planting spot to expose mineral soil. If organic matter gets into the planting hole, it can decompose and leave air spaces. Roots will dry out when they grow into these spaces. Open up the hole, making sure the hole is deep enough for the roots to be fully extended. If roots are curled or bunched up, the tree will not be able to take up water correctly, will often weaken and die, or may blow down later due to poor root structure. Take a tree out of your planting bag or bucket only after a hole is ready. When exposed, the fine roots can dry out in as little as 30 seconds. Seedling shoots and roots lose water to air, roots require more protecting.Unlike leaves ,they do not have stomata (closeable openings on the surface of the leaves) or any waxy coatings to help reduce water loss. If the roots apear dry they are probably dead. Now I know you are thinking,""I will place them in a buckect of water and store them there until planting"". This will not work. Submerge plants for no longer that a couple of minutes. Placing them in water cuts them off from oxygen. Remember to remove the container before planting a containerized tree. A helpful hint to all those new gardeners just starting is to remember to always plant green side up. Hold the seedling in place in the hole, making sure the roots are straight, fully extended and that the tree is neither too shallow or too deep in the hole. Fill hole, allowing soil to fall in around the roots. Tamp with hands or with your heel. Don't crush the roots by jumping up and down around the seedling like there is a snake curled up around the seedling. It is delicate. Fill with more soil, if necessary, and tamp. Tamping is important. If soil is not firmly packed around the roots, there will be air pockets that can dry out the roots, and the seedlings may be weakly anchored. It is far easier to plant the tree strait up then have the tree leaning and have to adjust the tree later. (Addition of fertilizer and plant vitamins at the time of planting is not generally necessary.) Take your time in planting. Proper spacing will help you grow a more valuable crop. I have tried to get more production from a limited area by over planting and then thinning, but I always have had trouble in harvesting .... digging is slower and poor quality usually results for a portion of the crop. Avoid these tree planting errors:

http://seedlingsrus.com/DeerDamageControl

http://seedlingsrus.com/Soils

http://seedlingsrus.com/PlantingTips.html

http://www.zone5trees.com/GrowingGrasses.html

About the author: Bill Has been planting trees on his 250 ac. tree farm for 25 years. The farm is located in Doylestown Pa. 25 miles north of Philadelphia in Bucks County.

Starting Your Own Landscape Service

2008-12-09T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: David Dunlap

Article: If viewing and making landscape more beautiful is a passion for you, rather than a hobby, then you may want to consider starting your own landscape service. There are many people out there who want a beautiful lawn but don't have the time, energy, or the artistic ability to do it on their own. Just like people need interior designers, they also need exterior designers.

Having beautiful landscape grace their home is a priority for many because it beautifies the community along with raising property values. They want to hire a team that can get the job done right and make their yard look magnificent.

You may want to consider hiring a team to help you. This might not be all that important until you get a few regular clients, however, if your good you will need help before you know it. Having a great reputation and getting word of mouth referrals is the best way to expand your landscape business quickly.

There are other methods of advertising your landscape service. You can create flyers to post around your city, you can place an ad in your towns largest newspaper, you can hand out business cards to potential contacts, or you can try to merge with an already established local landscape service and build a clientele that way. If you have a large vehicle, or buy one specifically for your business, you will want to be sure to put an advertisement on the side of it. More people will learn about your business that way than any other.

Other things you will have to consider are: applying for a business license, whether you will run your company from home or from a small office, and getting a loan for a building, tools, and company transportation.

Remember, starting a business is hard work but, if landscape is truly your passion, then it will all be worth it in the end. Think about waking up everyday and being excited about going to work! If you need help with any landscape ideas check out your local home improvement store or simply do some searching on the internet. Your sure to find some great ideas.

Details Of Lawn Mower Batteries

2008-12-08T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Andrew Caxton

Article:

Lawnmower Batteries Take Care Of Your Work Care for Them

This article describes the type of lawn mower batteries and the way you should care for them. The article details the systematic approach for your lawnmower batteries to make them long lasting.

Why Did You Choose Battery Operated Lawnmower

You have chosen a <a href=""http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com/electric-law nmowers.html"">battery operated lawn mower</a>, as you did not wish mess with fuel requirement, noise and the pollution from your gasoline-operated lawnmower. You did not choose the electric one with the long cord that you be a safety hazard for you and your family member. The battery operated lawnmower will be suitable for areas under 1 acre.

Types of Lawnmower Batteries

<a href=""http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com/lawn-mower-b atteries.html"">Lawnmower batteries</a> are rechargeable batteries working on the principle of chemical generation and storage of electricity. These batteries have been in existence for a long time now and new maintenance free nickel cadmium batteries have come up with advantage over lead acid batteries used for long time in automotives. The types of batteries are,

* Alkaline batteries: Used for small capacity portable electric devices. Not used in lawnmowers.

* Lead acid batteries: Used in lawnmowers and cars, they are slowly being replaced Nickel cadmium batteries

* Nickel cadmium batteries: This is a new type of low maintenance battery. It is replacing lead acid battery nearly everywhere.

* Lithium and other types: Presently not used in lawnmowers due to high cost and its storage capacity is low.

Details of Batteries Used In Lawnmowers

As is already said only two types of batteries are used in lawnmowers, the lead acid battery and the nickel cadmium (Ni-Cad for short). The Ni-Cad batteries are better in performance and are environment friendly. The lead acid batteries have to be recycled. They cannot be dumped in garbage. The lead is a dangerous chemical causing lead poisoning. For this reason when you replace the lead acid battery, it has to be taken back to the dealer.

About the author: Andrew Caxton contributes adding reviews and special articles regularly to http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com. A gardening website that carries interesting readings on lawn equipment and lawn mower parts, including how to care lawn mower batteries at http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com/lawn-mower-batteri es.html

The Ancient Lore of the Green Giant Arborvitae

2008-12-07T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Bill Hirst

Article: This is the Green Giant Arborvita story.

The original Green Giant got its name not from ancient lore, but from unusually extra large, hence ""giant,"" green peas. These ""Green Giant Peas"" were introduced by the Minnesota Valley Canning Company in 1925, in contrast to their previously marketed LeSueur baby peas, early-picked in June. Founded in 1903, this pea company was located in the valley of the Minnesota River, the Dakota Sioux name for ""cloudy water,"" just southwest of Minneapolis and St. Paul, the state capital. This is where there's a ""confluence"" with the even cloudier and muddier Mississippi River giving the whole area, including the surrounding towns like LeSueur, the title of ""the Minnesota Valley."" Lesueur is the name of the original explorer of the area, a Frenchmen of the early 1700's. By 1950, the ""Jolly Green Giant"" was so popular, such an ""icon"" as we say today, with a cartoon character created, etc., he became the basis of the company's new name. So that is where Green Giant comes from, modern marketing, not ancient lore.. <p/p>

EZ Home Improvement ShrubPlantings - The Burning Bush

2008-12-06T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Bill Hirst

Article: Burning Bush (Euonymus alatus)

A deciduous shrub from the Tree Family (Celastraceae)

Burning Bush, a non-native species from China and Korea, has escaped from the ornamental plantings into urban and rural areas. It travels by way of its seed. This plant is found in forests and brushy areas. This vase-shaped shrub has great red fall foliage, which glows for weeks in early to mid-autumn. Burning Bushes can be sheared into hedges or globes in landscape plantings. Hedges from burning bushes can be very dense giving good screening even in the winter. If left unpruned, the compact form of Burning Bush will grow to about 12 feet tall and 15 feet wide, and the winged form will grow to about 15 feet tall and 20 feet wide. In our area it propagates naturally in shaded areas. We obtain some of our stock from seedlings we gather from a small farm cemetery on our property. It even regrows after transplanting from the empty holes where roots are exposed. Burning Bush is adaptable to a variety of soil conditions. Fertile to sterile, organic to clay, acidic to alkaline, rocky to sandy this plant proves its strenght. It does not like wet soils, but does well in dry soils. Its small fiberous roots are near the surface and responds well to root pruning. Balling and burlapping this shrub does little damage for the plant can take abuse and recover quickly. This plant will give years of enjoyment. If you have a brown thumb, then this plant is for you. You can see more of Bill's planting tips and articles at http://www.seedlingsrus.com or http://www.zone5trees.com

About the author: NoneBill has been raising trees and plants on his 250 acre farm in Doylestown Pa. 25 miles north of Philadelphia for the past 30 years. His web sites are http://www.seedlingsrus.com and http://www.zone5trees.com

One Of my Favorite Trees - White Pines

2008-12-05T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: B Hirst

Beyond their size, white pines also fill important ecological niches. They grow across broad ranges of forest and urban conditions, finding much of North America to their liking.

Growing anything under white pines and spruces is tough and it is not the acid issue. The conifers produce such a fine mass of roots close to the soil surface that anything else trying to grow in that area has to compete for water and nutrients. Thus other plants often tend not to do very well in this envirement. You will need to provide good moisture and fertilizty during the establishment period to get them off to a good start. Root pruning of the white pine can help but don't cut out an area larger than 5% of the root zone at a time.

About the author: Bill has been growing White pines for over 25 years at his Doylestown Pa. Farm His web sites are http://www.seedlingsrus.com and http://www.zone5trees.com

Ten Simple Steps to Taking Cuttings

2008-12-04T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Fran Barnwell

Article: Are you uncertain about what to do in the garden, and confused with gardening jargon? Let Fran help you with easy to follow tips and advice. This article gives you a step-by-step plan to taking cuttings and increase the number of plants in your garden!

There are several different types of cuttings that you can take from plants - the most common are softwood, semi-ripe and hardwood. These refer to how woody and therefore how old the plant stem is.

Softwood cuttings are taken from the youngest part of the stem, and are the easiest and quickest to take root. This makes them ideal for anyone trying this for the first time.

Softwood cuttings are taken in May and June from the new growth of the plant. They root easily - between 4 and 8 weeks - but can wilt and die if they lose too much moisture, so they have to be kept warm and moist. And the best way to do this, if you don't have a propagator, is to put the pot inside a polythene bag.

Some experts recommend using hormone rooting powder to encourage rooting, others say it is not necessary. I have taken cuttings both using rooting powder and without using it and I have had successes and failures with both. So give it a try and see what happens.

The most suitable and easiest plants for taking cuttings include: fuchsias, pelargoniums, hebes, lupins, hydrangeas and chrysanthemums.

So here's how you do it:

1. Cut about half a dozen growing tips from the plant - about 4"" using a sharp knife or secateurs and pop straight into a polythene bag to keep the cutting moist

2. Use either special cuttings compost, or make up a half and half mix of multi-purpose compost and vermiculite or sharp sand

3. You can use small 3"" pots for individual cuttings, or a larger 5"" pot and place up to 5 cuttings around the edge

4. Trim each cutting so that the bottom is just below a leaf joint (node) - make the cut a slanted one if you can 5. Take off all the bottom leaves, leaving just 3-4 at the top, and pinch out the growing tip

6. If you are using hormone rooting powder, dip the bottom end of the cutting in water, then into the powder and shake off any excess

7. Push the cutting into the compost in the pot up to about a third of its length, and water

8. Cover the pot with a clear polythene bag making sure the bag does not press against the leaves, and place on a bright, sunny window ledge or in a greenhouse

9. Check every few days, but they should not need much watering

10. When you see new leaves appearing, you will know that the cutting has rooted - you can then re-pot the new plant into normal potting compost

And because softwood cuttings are so easy to root, it is also possible just to pop the cut stem into a glass of water, take off the bottom leaves, pinch out the growing tip, and within a couple of weeks you will see the roots starting to grow.

And that's all there is to it - your family and friends will be so impressed when you give them plants for free!

About the author: Fran Barnwell is a self-taught gardener, learning through experience in her own garden. Fran understands the difficulties that face new gardeners, and has written The Ultimate Guide to Gardening for Beginners, a successful eBook that helps anyone new to gardening to get started, explaining the basics in easy to understand terms. To find out more and to sign up to receive a free series of articles, go to http://www.NewToGardening.com

Get Your Small Plants Ready For Planting

2008-12-03T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: B Hirst

Article: Seedlings need to be hardened off. Hardening off plants means introducing them gradually to the outdoor envirement. The best method to harden plants is to move them outdoors on a mild day. Hopefully on a mild and cloudy one. Leave the plants in partial shade protected from wind. Allow them more and more direct light and wind each day. Thus they will become accustomed to their new home and better take direct sunlight. After a week the plants should be ready to be transplanted. See other articles by Bill at: http://seedlingsrus.com/Arborvitae.html http://seedlingsrus.com/FreeFencing.html http://seedlingsrus.com/Winter http://zone5trees.com/Hedges http://zone5trees.com/PlantingInstructions.html http://zone5trees.com/ProfitsGrowingTrees.html http://seedlingsrus.com/GrowingRhodies.html

About the author: Bill has a 250 acre tree and plant farm in Doylestown Pa. and raises over 200 types of trees and plants.

Types Of Lawn Mower Batteries

2008-12-02T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: A.Caxton

Article: Lawn mower Batteries Take Care Of Your Work Care for Them

This article describes the type of lawn mower batteries and the way you should care for them. The article details the systematic approach for your lawnmower batteries to make them long lasting.

Why Did You Choose Battery Operated Lawnmower

You have chosen a battery operated lawn mower, as you did not wish mess with fuel requirement, noise and the pollution from your gasoline-operated lawnmower. You did not choose the electric one with the long cord that you be a safety hazard for you and your family member. The battery operated lawnmower will be suitable for areas under 1 acre.

Types of Lawnmower Batteries

Lawnmower batteries are rechargeable batteries working on the principle of chemical generation and storage of electricity. These batteries have been in existence for a long time now and new maintenance free nickel cadmium batteries have come up with advantage over lead acid batteries used for long time in automotives. The types of batteries are,

Alkaline batteries: Used for small capacity portable electric devices. Not used in lawnmowers.

Lead acid batteries: Used in lawnmowers and cars, they are slowly being replaced Nickel cadmium batteries

Nickel cadmium batteries: This is a new type of low maintenance battery. It is replacing lead acid battery nearly everywhere.

Lithium and other types: Presently not used in lawnmowers due to high cost and its storage capacity is low.

Details of Batteries Used In Lawnmowers

About the author: Andrew Caxton contributes adding reviews and special articles regularly to http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com . A lawn care and gardening website that carries interesting readings on lawn equipment and lawn mower parts, including how to care lawn mower batteries at http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com/lawn-mower-batteri es.html

A Tough Non-Native Shrub - The Burning Bush

2008-12-01T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: Bill Hirst

Article: Burning Bush (Euonymus alatus)

A deciduous shrub from the Staff-Tree Family (Celastraceae)

Burning Bush, a non-native species from China and Korea, has escaped from the ornamental plantings into urban and rural areas. It travels by way of its seed. This plant is found in forests and brushy areas. This vase-shaped shrub has great red fall foliage, which glows for weeks in early to mid-autumn. Burning Bushes can be sheared into hedges or globes in landscape plantings. Hedges from burning bushes can be very dense giving good screening even in the winter. If left unpruned, the compact form of Burning Bush will grow to about 12 feet tall and 15 feet wide, and the winged form will grow to about 15 feet tall and 20 feet wide. In our area it propagates naturally in shaded areas. We obtain some of our stock from seedlings we gather from a small farm cemetery on our property. It even regrows after transplanting from the empty holes where roots are exposed. Burning Bush is adaptable to a variety of soil conditions. Fertile to sterile, organic to clay, acidic to alkaline, rocky to sandy this plant proves its strenght. It does not like wet soils, but does well in dry soils. Its small fiberous roots are near the surface and responds well to root pruning. Balling and burlapping this shrub does little damage for the plant can take abuse and recover quickly. If you have a brown thumb, then this plant is for you. You can see more of Bill's planting tips and articles at http://www.seedlingsrus.com or http://www.zone5trees.com

About the author: Bill has been raising trees and plants on his 250 acre farm in Doylestown Pa. 25 miles north of Philadelphia for the past 30 years. His web sites are http://www.seedlingsrus.com and http://www.zone5trees.com

Euonymus Alatus

2008-11-30T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: Bill Hirst

Article: Burning Bush (Euonymus alatus)

A deciduous shrub from the Staff-Tree Family (Celastraceae)

Burning Bush, a non-native species from China and Korea, has escaped from the ornamental plantings into urban and rural areas. It travels by way of its seed. This plant is found in forests and brushy areas. This vase-shaped shrub has great red fall foliage, which glows for weeks in early to mid-autumn. Burning Bushes can be sheared into hedges or globes in landscape plantings. Hedges from burning bushes can be very dense giving good screening even in the winter. If left unpruned, the compact form of Burning Bush will grow to about 12 feet tall and 15 feet wide, and the winged form will grow to about 15 feet tall and 20 feet wide. In our area it propagates naturally in shaded areas. We obtain some of our stock from seedlings we gather from a small farm cemetery on our property. It even regrows after transplanting from the empty holes where roots are exposed. Burning Bush is adaptable to a variety of soil conditions. Fertile to sterile, organic to clay, acidic to alkaline, rocky to sandy this plant proves its strenght. It does not like wet soils, but does well in dry soils. Its small fiberous roots are near the surface and responds well to root pruning. Balling and burlapping this shrub does little damage for the plant can take abuse and recover quickly. If you have a brown thumb, then this plant is for you. You can see more of Bill's planting tips and articles at http://www.seedlingsrus.com or http://www.zone5trees.com

Garden Leaf Blower Maintenance

2008-11-29T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: Leonard Mutch

Article: To keep your leaf blower in tip top condition and to maximise the life and reliability of your leaf blower, it is vital to service it regularly. Here are a some guidelines and tips that will help you maintain your leaf blower in good working order.

Daily Checks on your Leaf Blower

* Clean the external surface of the machine with a cloth.

* Make sure that the throttle lock and the throttle trigger function safely.

* Ensure that the stop switch is working properly.

* Check the housings, and make sure they are free of cracks.

* Make sure that the collection bag is intact and that the zipper is working.

* Make sure that all nuts and screws are tightened properly .

* Give the filter a good clean and replace it if necessary.

Weekly Checks on your Leaf Blower

* Check that the starter device, the starter cord and the tensioning spring are all still in good condition.

* Ensure that the air intake at the starter device is in good condition. Remove any debris or dirt from it, make sure it's not clogged.

* Give the outside of the spark plug a good clean, and unscrew it and check the electrode gap. Re-adjust this gap to (0.020"") 0.5 mm, if required, or change the spark plug.

* Make sure that none of the anti-vibration mountings are broken or damaged.

* Clean or change the muffler's spark arrest screen (not on mufflers with a catalytic converter).

* Give the fan blades on the flywheel a good clean.

* Clean the carburetor space.

* Give the air filter a good clean or replace it if necessary.

Monthly Checks on your Leaf Blower

* Flush through the fuel tank with clean gasoline. Remember to dispose of this safely!

* Give the outside of the carburetor and the space around it a good clean.

* Do the same for the fan blades on the flywheel and the space around it.

* Check the fuel line and filter, and replace them, if required.

* Check that all the cables and their connections are in good condition.

* Change the spark plug.

* Examine and clean the muffler's spark arrest screen if required (only mufflers with a catalytic converter).

About the author: Leonard Mutch is a keen gardener and author. You can read more of his tips and articles at <a href=""http://www.gardenleafblower.com/article_list.html"">Garden Leaf Blower Buyer Guide</a>

Garden Composting Tips- The Art of Composting

2008-11-28T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: Carlo Morelli

Article: Even a composting neophyte can create top-notch compost. Akin to cooking, composting is half art, and half science. Awareness of these basic factors will help you getting started. Just like a chef demands high quality ingredients, successful composting needs the best ingredients too. Good materials for composting include these: grass clippings, leaves, plant stalks, hedge trimmings, old potting soil, twigs, vegetable scraps, coffee filters, and tea bags. Bad composting materials include: diseased plants, weeds with seed heads, invasive weeds, pet feces, dead animals, bread and grains, meat or fish parts, dairy products, grease, cooking oil, or oily foods.

To prepare compost, you need organic materials, microorganisms, air, water, and a small quantity of nitrogen. Organic material is what you are trying to decompose (see above for Do's and Don'ts). Microorganisms are tiny forms of plant and animal life, which break down organic material. A small amount of garden soil or manure supplies adequate microorganisms. The air, nitrogen, and water offer an encouraging environment for the microorganisms to produce your compost. You can add enough nitrogen to the compost with small amount of nitrogen fertilizer., which can be purchased at hardware stores or nurseries. Air is the one ingredient which you can't have too much of. Too much nitrogen can kill microbes; too much water causes insufficient air in the pile.

If microorganisms have more surface area to feed off of, the materials will decompose faster. Chopping your organic materials with a machete, or using a shredder or lawnmower to shred materials will help them break down faster.

The compost pile is your oven. Compost piles catch heat created by the activity of millions of microorganisms. The minimum size for hot, fast composting is a 3-foot by 3-foot by 3-foot. But piles wider or taller than 5 feet don't permit enough air to reach the microorganisms at the center.

Your compost pile's microorganisms work their hardest when the materials have about the moistness of a wrung-out sponge and as many air passages. The air in the pile is usually consumed faster than the moisture, so the pile should be turned or mixed up now and then to add more air; this maintains high temperatures and controls odor. Use a pitchfork, rake, or other garden tool can to turn materials with.

About the author: Carlo Morelli is a writer at OnlineTips.org, where you can read about <a href=""http://www.onlinetips.org/rose-soil-composition"">the best soil composition for roses</a>, <a href=""http://www.onlinetips.org/wrought-iron-balusters"">wrought iron balusters</a> and other home and garden tips.

Landscaping Ideas: Creating A Backyard Wetland

2008-11-27T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: Carlo Morelli

Article: A miniature wetland on your property can offer similar benefits that natural wetlands offer. A mini-wetland can even help replace the valuable natural functions of wetlands that may have been lost during your area's development.

What is a wetland? Simply any area in which water covers the soil or keeps it saturated at least two or three weeks out of the growing season. They are commonly found wherever water collects at a rate faster than it drains away. Some are swamped year-round while others only hold water for short-lived periods each spring. The majority of wetlands are underwater less than a month during the summer. Wetlands with grasses, cattails, and similar vegetation are referred to as marshes, and wooded wetlands, with shrubs and trees, are called swamps.

Who wants a swamp in their backyard, you ask? Well, a wetland in your yard will store, filter, and clean runoff water temporarily from your roof and lawn. It will supply a home for some fascinating friends; from butterflies and bees to salamanders, toads, frogs, and birds.

How long soil is wet establishes which wetland plants will grow best. Plants like cattails, bulrushes, jewelweed, and the lovely cardinal flower do best with alternating wet and dry periods, and survive flooding as long as most of the leaves are out of the water. Water lilies and pond plants grow well in a permanently flooded pond. Most wetland plants do not require standing water to grow successfully, and will survive even in an area that appears dry during most of the growing season.

Starting a wetland in your yard could be as easy as planting wetland plants in an existing wet spot or drainage area, or may require the effort needed to install a pond. You can create a wetland in any level area and make it suitable for most wetland plants by digging a wide, shallow hole, lining it with plastic, refilling it with soil, and adding water.

Here are a few tips to get you started:

1. The sides should slope down gradually to the deepest area.

2. An irregular shaped wetlaand will look the most natural. Long curving wetlands will fit nicely into an existing landscape plan.

3. Line the hole with sheet plastic. Use heavy objects such as round stones to hold the sheeting in place.

4. If you're in an area that has a high annual rainfall, puncture the liner in several places with pen-sized holes halfway up the sides to supply drainage. This will let keep the soil from staying completely waterlogged for long periods.

5. Covering the edges of the plastic liner with soil will hide them and also hold it in place.

About the author: Carlo Morelli is a contributor to OnlineTips.org, where you can read tips about <a href=""http://onlinetips.org/landcaping-drought"">landscaping during times of drought</a> and <a href=""http://onlinetips.org/landscape-xeriscape"">xeriscape landscaping</a>.

How to choose your garden furniture and make it last

2008-11-26T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: Angus Charlton

Article: Garden furniture is now a fashion item as the patio and garden increasingly become an additional functional space to the home.

Before you buy any garden furniture it is strongly recommended that you do some research. Doing so will greatly increase your chances of buying garden furniture that is right for you and will last you a long time. Following are some important tips you need to consider before you buy.

Firstly decide whether you want stackable or foldaway furniture that will be put away in the shed or garage in winter or if you want permanent solid garden furniture that remains in situ all year round. If you want your garden furniture to be a permanent part of your garden for esthetic reasons then it is recommended that you go for heavy furniture made from hardwood, aluminum or wrought iron with rust proofing. It is well worth spending the money on the heavier more durable materials as this will be much more cost effective in the long run.

Choosing the right type of material and construction is paramount. Decide what kind of material for your garden furniture would best compliment your patio or garden. Select a material that will stay in balance with your garden.

Wood is the best all round as it is lightweight, esthetically pleasing and comfortable but requires some maintenance. Choose a tropical hardwood which is high in natural oil content like teak, iroko or courbaril. These woods are weather resistant and can be left outside throughout the year.

Make sure that mortice and tenon joints are used for your teak garden furniture and not bolts which corrode. If any metal fittings are used in the construction make sure they are made from brass, stainless steel or aluminum which are corrosion resistant. Make sure the construction is only premium grade teak for our garden furniture, so any knots, cracks and other defects are eliminated before the timber is used to build the furniture. Additionally, Make sure your teak garden furniture is kiln dried to optimise moisture content and ensure shape is maintained and cracks are eliminated.

Teak garden furniture that is assembled using epoxy based glues tend to have the best performance and durability of all the types of joints as the epoxy resin used will not be affected by rain or frost.

If your teak garden furniture becomes dirty it is easy to clean with warm soapy water and a scrubbing brush which will enable you to restore the beautiful silver grey weathered look. If required a pressure hose can be used at 60-80 bar [900-1200psi] at a distance of no less than 30cm.

Once your teak garden furniture has weathered the colour will be enhanced by an annual scrub.

A small amount of bleach added to the water will suppress any algae growth.

Any stains and grease spots can be immediately removed by washing down using a light detergent then rinsing off with clean water as soon as they occur .However, this is not essential as nature will take its course over time.

In dry weather small cracks will appear in the end of the grain timbers. This is natural and no action needs to be taken as when the moisture in the atmosphere increases the timber will return to its original condition.

It is not necessary to use teak oil or varnish as these will not extend the life of your garden furniture and are purely cosmetic. However if you wish to preserve the as new appearance of your teak garden furniture the application of teak oil when the furniture is new will give a more lustre finish than leaving untouched. Please ensure you follow the manufacturer's instructions as usually this is a three stage process. Make sure the timber is completely dry when you apply the teak oil, otherwise the furniture will blacken.

Wrought iron garden furniture generally looks the best as it is usually hand crafted to give a unique look. The disadvantages of wrought iron furniture is that it is not as comfortable as wood and heavier to move around. Additionally, iron rusts so wrought iron garden furniture has to be especially coated to prevent it from rusting so make sure the supplier gives you at least a one year warranty against rust.

Finally, if you can, it is recommended that you invest in a cover for your garden furniture. Covers now come in all shapes and sizes and are well worth the money as they add years to the life of your garden furniture. Simply place the cover on your garden furniture every evening or when it rains, you will see the benefits in the long term.

About the author: Angus Charlton is managing director of Arboreta, an online store offering <a href=""http://www.arboreta.co.uk"">garden furniture</a>. He is a keen gardener who has developed a garden furniture business that resources from sustainable rainforests and contribute to the art of Feng Shui for gardens.

Spring Flowers from bulbs for the Lazy Gardener

2008-11-25T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: Pet Campbell

Spring Flowers from bulbs for the Lazy Gardener

I am not going to pretend that I am a Master Gardener, or the end of all wisdom with regard to spring bulbs in Florida. I will share my experiences with bulbs that I have planted in Florida that were successes or failures here at Pet's gardens. One of the things I missed in Florida was spring flowers, and I heard from everyone, you can't grow them here. Well here is the thing!

You can. Here I was a dedicated...Sort of gardener missing the beauty and fragrance of spring flowers! Being told no, well I decided to investigate and if necessary loose a few dollars in the lesson. Garden bed preparation is not my specialty; I don't map out a garden. I plant. This means I am a lazy sod. And really I dig holes and drop bulbs in. I do not measure I guess.

I do not carefully prepare my flower beds; I do not add a million pounds of this or that. Nope I just don't. This is really ok my flowers don't seem to mind in the least. My garden beds are nothing fancy, no magic formulas no expensive additions. I am a simple gardener. Plant it, feed it, water it, mulch it weed it. I have neither the time nor inclination to do more. Remember I am the lazy gardener, and I hate to sweat!

However I love flowers, I am really not particular, I do have some favorites but I am careful not to show it. Roses and hibiscus are fêted as the tropical queens, here at Pet's gardens but luckily the rest of the flowers have not picked that up!

I don't know how many times I have heard that you can't have spring daffodils, and tulips, or hyacinths in Florida... Nonsense! You surely can if you remember and utilize a few simple guidelines,

1. Daffodils like should be planted after the beginning of November, if you plant to early The ground will be much to warm, if you wait, the ground will have cooled enough that they won't sprout and then die off, this is a very expensive and frustrating experience. So learn from my mistake and wait. Last fall as an experiment I refrigerated 200 daffodil bulbs and then planted them in December. They did not come up, although I had carefully for a change followed the directions given by the grower. At the same time I planted 500 daffodils (assorted) that were a mistake! From Amazon I had actually ordered 250 bulbs, and for some reason Amazon duplicated my order. So I ended up with 500 bulbs. What can you do? Return them? Heck no, it was like a stroke of fortune as far as I was concerned and I so did not do the happy gardener dance where my hubby could see it! But I did plant them and waited checking anxiously until I saw the crisp green tips emerge from the ground. The first daffodils bloomed on Feb. 1-2005.
I had daffodils blooming until June 2005.

2. It is a fact of life in Florida that tulips will be annuals, so just deal with it.Honestly because we don't get the hard ground freezes necessary for tulips, we have to choose whether to spend the money, enjoy their short bloom period, or purchase alternate flowers. I am fond of tulips, but since these bulbs were to be a array of color to brighten that bleak period between winter and summer I chose to plant hyacinths instead they at least have a shot at coming back.

3. Hyacinths are rumored to be perennial in Fl. Under the right, so far never specified conditions. All I know is that I put 100 hyacinth bulbs in the front border of my main perennial garden, and by golly I had 100 blooms! I do not think that there is any smell that can compare to hyacinths, it is simply heavenly. I will report next year if they return.

4. Do not cut the foliage off after your flowers have finished blooming, yep its going to be kind of ugly for a couple of weeks, but don't complain you had vases of gorgeous flowers to brighten and scent your house, that non of your neighbors had! Spring bulbs don't need our help, they are on their own timetable, and they know somehow when it's right to start growing. And I will add that while pacing and watching does nothing to speed the growth cycle it is good for your legs and hips! I am working on lilies right now so you can watch for that article coming soon. Feel free to drop me a note at pet@petsgardenphotography.com

About the author:
Pet, is a gardener , photographer, and best of all ..she is the find a shortcut and use type gardener.

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Choosing roses for your landscape

2008-11-24T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Tony Robinson

Article: Roses have long been a favorite among all types of gardeners, and roses continue to enjoy great popularity today. In addition to their beauty as cut flowers and in bouquets, roses are among the most useful and attractive flowers to grace the landscape of any home.

As a matter of fact, the exterior of any home can be made more graceful and more inviting through the use of wonderful landscape roses. Choosing the right ones, and ensuring that they compliment the overall style of the home, is very important to the overall success of the landscape.

Fortunately, the number of ornamental landscape roses make finding them an easy task. The difficulty consists of choosing the right ones from this variety. There are a number of classes of roses whose characteristics make them great for use as landscape ornamentals. For instance, the gardener who wants to grow roses up and over an archway or a trellis may want to use tall growing tea roses. Tea roses are renowned for their nodding blooms, therefore all who pass under the arch would be treated to the beautiful sight of roses in full bloom.

To accent a wall or other permanent structure, a true climbing rose is often the best choice. True climbing roses can be trained to many different effects, including climbing up the length of the structure, or accenting the tops and sides of a wall or building.

The Polyantha or modern day Floribunda rose is a great choice for gardeners looking for a vibrant splash of color for the background. These popular varieties of roses have large sprays of blooms, and they are popular choices for providing color in the landscape.

If roses are to be planted in front of other plants in the landscape, miniature or low growing China roses are a perfect choice. Roses can even be used as hedges, with modern Shrub roses and Rugosa roses being excellent choices.

Of course, as with any aspect of gardening, color is an important consideration. After all, every gardener's goal is a garden full of colorful, vibrant and healthy plants. Fortunately, roses come in so many shapes, sizes, textures and colors that there truly is a rose for every gardener.

The goal of choosing the best color roses for the landscape should be to compliment the color of the surrounding landscape. For instance, a spray of plain white tea roses can be striking against a dark red brick home, or an arrangement of pink roses can be the perfect compliment to a stone or marble entranceway. With so many colors of roses to choose from, it should be easy to find colors that compliment and enhance any decorating scheme.

One popular trend in the world of landscaping is to use a variety of different plants and flowers in the landscape. Whereas single species landscaping was in vogue a few years ago, most of today's gardeners like to use a mix of different colors, species and styles of plants. Doing so not only makes for a vibrant garden, but it is thought to enhance the health of the soil as well.

Fortunately, roses lend themselves well to this mixture, and roses can be a beautiful part of an overall landscape of plants and flowers. In addition, there are roses suitable for a variety of climates. Choosing the best rose varieties for your specific climate should mean fewer pesticides, few disease issues and an overall healthier garden.

About the author: Tony Robinson is an international author and webmaster. In his busy life he finds time to ""Smell the Roses"". For geat tips, techniques and articles visit http://www.rose-bloom.com

Mower Maintenance for a Perfect Lawn

2008-11-23T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: David Chandler

Article: Growing and maintaining a lush green lawn takes care and the right equipment. The right lawn mover for your landscape and proper maintenance of your equipment will ensure a nice even lawn. A good lawn mower should cut the grass and not tear or rip it out.

The first thing to consider when purchasing a lawn mover is your landscape. Is your lawn on a slope or flat ground? What type of mower can get the job done with the least amount of effort? Another factor is how easy the mower is to maintain for peak performance.

If you have to cut grass on a slope, the best type of lawn mower is one with high wheels. This will make it easier to push up a hill, or to move back down the hill with. The second type of lawn mower is a cordless or electric mulching lawn mower. The mulching mower is less messy and mulches your lawn. The third type of lawn mower is a reel lawn mower. Reel lawnmowers are environmental friendly, not contributing to pollution and are easy to use.

After deciding on the type of lawn mower to purchase, review the maintenance schedule. A good maintenance program will allow your mower to last for years to come and give your grass a better cut. Every spring, the different parts of the lawnmower should be cleaned or repaired. Spark plugs should be cleaned or replaced for good firing and nuts and bolts should be checked and tightened where necessary.

The underside decking should be cleaned throughout the season to remove build up of grass and dirt. Cleaning the grass and dirt will also help in preventing the spread of diseases in grass. In order to clean the deck of the lawnmower, you should first empty the gas tank and make sure that the spark plug is not connected. You can then stand the mower up on its side and spray the mower with water. You can then scrub off the rest of the dirt and grass that is stuck on the mower. Make sure to dry the mower after you have finished rinsing it off, to make sure that none of the parts rust.

Your maintenance should also include checking the oil and air filters. The air filters should be cleaned or replaced on a regular basis. Before removing the filter to replace, make sure that you know whether it is paper or foam. The oil in your lawn mower lubricates the engine. Be sure you read the operating instructions on the type and amount of oil your mower uses.

Another important part of maintenance is sharpening the blades every one or two months, depending on use. Sharp blades ensure a clean cut rather than ripping out the grass. This can be easily done by removing the blade from the mower and sharpening it with a file.

When mowing season is over, there are certain steps to properly store your lawn mower for the winter. It is advisable to remove the oil and gas, and clean the exterior.

With consistent and proper care of your lawnmower, you will be able to keep your lawn looking great through the seasons and years, and your mower will last for years too.

For more information about lawn mowers and your lawn, visit http://www.lawnmowersinfoguide.com and http://www.lawninfocenter.com

About the author: David Chandler For your FREE Stock Market Trading Mini Course: ""What The Wall Street Hot Shots Won't Tell You!"" go to: http://www.stockmarketgenie.com

How To Install a Lawn Sprinkler System

2008-11-22T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: S McKenzie

Scott Young reveals his tips and techniques in a new guide that shows how to install an automatic lawn sprinkler system in 6 days or less and save 67% of the cost.

'As a lawn sprinkler service professional for over 7 years, I have seen many people waste hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars on unnecessary installation fees. The very same job could have been done by them with the same quality for a fraction of the price.' says Young ' I have managed my own lawn sprinkler business for 3 years as a licensed irrigation contractor in Florida. Having designed, installed, and repaired sprinklers systems in hundreds of homes, I ran into many clients who wanted to learn how the system worked, so they could either do their own repairs or even build a system of their own.' More http://tinyurl.com/4w7wg

'I then decided to put together this guide to help the average homeowner design and install his or her system quickly and without the headache or hassles of doing complicated mathematical equations. Not to mention cutting out the costs and difficulty with dealing with contractors. I looked around on the Internet to see what kind of information was available to the average person looking to design and install their own sprinkler system. To my surprise, I could not find anything anywhere that was accurate or easy to understand. People don't want to, nor have the time to, take classes to learn sprinkler design when they just want to water their lawns!'

'How To Build Your Own Automatic Lawn Sprinkler System' is tailored for the everyday homeowner. Topics covered include:
Explanation of the ease of installing your own sprinkler system in 6 days or less, Discover the 'make or break' secret that could cost you hundreds each month on your water bill, The 16 no-hassle steps to cut your installation time in half, How to set a watering schedule to maximize the efficiency of your new automatic sprinkler system and more.

For more information, please visit: http://tinyurl.com/4w7wg

About the author:
Simon McKenzie is a freelance web designer and marketing consultant. http://tinyurl.com/4w7wg

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Insecticides & Fungicides/Spreader-stickers, Wetting Agents: Getting the most out of Your Sprays

2008-11-21T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Thomas Ogren

Article: Spreader-stickers, Wetting Agents: Getting the most out of Your Sprays

Thomas Ogren

Spreader-stickers or if you prefer, sticker-spreaders, are agents we can add to garden sprays to make them more effective. These additives are commonly used in commercial horticulture and in agriculture, but for some reason are as yet relatively unknown to most gardeners. Sticker-spreaders can be made of many different components, organic or inorganic. Often the actual ingredients in a particular brand of sticker-spreader will be kept secret, as a proprietary formulation known only within the company producing it. Some brands use silicone-based surfactants, oils, emulsifiers and buffering agents, while others may use odd combinations of things like fish oil and fatty acid soaps. Several are made entirely from some sort of emulsified soybean oil. Actually, common dish soap will act as a sticker-spreader, it just won't be as effective. To be totally technically correct here, sticker-spreader is a combination of two adjuvants. Adjuvants are materials added to spray mixtures to increase the effectiveness of the main active ingredient. If we want to be completely correct with our terminology here, we probably ought to note too that spreaders are adjuvant surfactants. Surfactants are adjuvants that reduce surface tensions of solutions, helping them spread and cover leaves more effectively. Stickers are adjuvants that aid in the attachment to a surface. The water-soluble wax product often used to spray Christmas trees to keep them turgid, Wiltpruff, is also sometimes used as a sticker-spreader. I recently did some comparison spraying of roses in my own garden. I was spraying the roses with a homemade combination to keep the darn deer from eating them into the ground. With both batches of spray I used, per gallon of water, two raw eggs, four cloves of garlic, and a cup of skim milk. I blended all the ingredients in a blender before putting them in the sprayer. I sprayed two different sections of roses. In the first section I used the above mix, with the addition of 6 tablespoons of dish soap. In the second section of roses I used the same mix but used two tablespoons of a commercial grade sticker-spreader. What was the difference? Both sprays did keep the deer from eating the roses, for awhile. The spray with soap resulted in roses that were not eaten for six nights following the spraying. Deer did not eat the roses sprayed with the sticker spreader mix for 15 nights. It seemed obvious to me that the sticker-spreader had indeed locked the smelly spray material onto the roses better than had the soap. Sticker spreader is sometimes used to make leaves on foliage plants shinier, and this works pretty well, too. If, for example, you are just spraying your roses with insecticidal soap (for aphids) and a little baking soda (for rust and mildew control) mixed with water and a bit of sticker-spreader, you'll immediately notice that the spray does stick to the leaves better and it also make them shine. Spreader-stickers can also have somewhat of a synergistic affect when used with insecticides. It not only helps the insecticide adhere better to plant surfaces but it also helps the insecticide penetrate the bodies of insects it contacts. Perhaps most importantly, spreader-sticker also protects the insecticide or fungicide from washing off in the rain and from breakdown from sunlight. I think I paid less than five dollars for a pint of spreader-sticker at a local nursery. A little bit goes a long way, so it seems inexpensive enough. Some of the insecticides I like most, organic botanical-based ones such as Neem are kind of pricey, and using sticker-spreader gets me more bang for my buck.

About the author: Tom Ogren is a nationally know gardener and has appeared numerous times on HGTV. His website is www.allergyfree-gardening.com

The Beautiful Garden

2008-11-20T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Irvin L. Rozier

Article: The Beautiful Garden

Matthew 13:3 "And He spoke many things unto them in parables, saying, "Behold, a sower went forth to sow."

Every time I read the above passage of scripture, I'm reminded of a good friend of mine, Dorsey. When I was growing up, I helped a local farmer and developed some friendships that lasted. Dorsey also worked for this farmer. My daddy, Reverend A. J. Rozier, was their pastor, so they nicknamed me "preacher". After years spent in the U.S. Army, I came back home and renewed my friendship with Dorsey. He had married later on in life, and both he and his wife loved the Lord. They especially enjoyed southern gospel singing. In fact, Dorsey was a right good singer himself. I would often visit with them, talk about the Lord, and sing a few songs for them. Dorsey's wife, Amanda, wasn't in the best of health and Dorsey had suffered from the disability from the wreck he was in while a teenager. One day, Dorsey called me and asked me if I could "lay off" a straight row. You see, he wanted to plant a garden. Well, I said "Sure, I'll be over soon." Well, we got his old Allis Chambers tractor hooked up to the planters and I commenced to "layoff" the first straight row. It was so curvy it resembled a "C"! I told Dorsey that was contour plowing, and we could get more on a "C" row instead of a straight row. Well, ole Dorse crawled on that old orange tractor and planted corn, beans, okra and just about everything else. A few weeks later, he called me and asked me to come over and help him set up the tractor so that he could plow his garden. I went on over and took a look at his garden-it was beautiful! He told me that it was the best garden he had ever had. As I looked at the sweet corn, I noticed that some plants were about 12 inches high while other plants were six to eight inches high. The old planter had skipped, and Dorsey and Amanda thought I had slipped over in the night and replanted the corn. I said, "No, I haven't done that." Then Dorsey said, "It was the Lord who has blessed this garden." A few weeks later, the Lord awakened me from my sleep. It was about two a.m. I had been dreaming. In this dream, I went over to Dorsey's house. There were many people there cleaning up, Amanda came to the door, and I asked "Where is Dorsey?" She pointed across the road and there he was, all dressed up in a pretty suit with a big grin on his face. He was waving bye. After waking, I said," Lord, you're about to take Dorsey home, aren't you?" The Lord replied, "Yes, in a few days." I began to weep and grieve for him. He was such an humble man, and I was happy and sad for him. About two weeks later, on Sunday night, he was strong on my mind. I called him up and asked him if he was OK. He replied, "Yes, preacher, I'm doing fine." I told him that I loved him and appreciated him. The next Wednesday evening, he went out in the yard to feed the chickens and dropped dead with a heart attack. When I went over to his house, it was just like my dream. People were there cleaning up, and Dorsey had crossed over the road. By the way, on his funeral day, he wore the same suit as the Lord had shown me in the dream. Many is the time we had fellowship together, just the two or three of us. During these times, the Holy Spirit graced us with His presence as we talked, sang and prayed together. Dorsey longed to go home to be with his Jesus. His life was a testimony of the grace of God.

Matthew 18:20 "For where two or three are gathered together in My name, there am I in the midst of them."

About the author: author, preacher, retired military

Hydroponics Gardening - How to Grow Flowers and Vegetables with Minimal Time and Effort

2008-11-19T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Stephen Provis

Article: Did you know that you can still grow your own beautiful flowers and vegetables, without having to spend many hours every week looking after your garden?

One of the biggest problems many gardeners face is never having enough time to maintain their garden. There's always weeds to remove, insects and other pests to take care of, and steps to take to prevent plants becoming diseased. Even watering the garden each day can be very time consuming, unless there's an automatic sprinkler system in place.

If you want a garden but only have limited time to look after it, hydroponics is a great option. Hydroponics gardening has many time-saving advantages over conventional gardening methods.

Some of these advantages are:

1. No weeding required.

With hydroponics gardening, the plants are grown in a solution of nutrients dissolved in water instead of soil. You don't have to worry about weeds sprouting amongst your plants, because soil isn't used.

2. Fewer problems with pests and diseases.

When growing hydroponically, you have less of the typical problems with pests such as slugs, snails and caterpillars attacking your plants.

Although the nutrient solution of your hydroponic garden will have to be changed regularly, this only takes a fraction of the time compared to conventional gardening maintenance - eg. greenhouse gardening, where soil has to be replaced between crops to prevent disease.

3. You don't need to spend time watering your plants.

Plants grown in a hydroponic garden have an unlimited supply of water. You never need to be concerned that your plants are getting too much or too little water.

4. Say goodbye to digging your garden.

Preparation of a conventional garden involves loosening the soil to add oxygen for the plant's roots to extract. Once again, as soil isn't used with hydroponics, this means one less time consuming job for you to do.

Plants grown hydroponically extract oxygen from the nutrient solution via their roots. The oxygen can quite quickly be used up, so it's important that it's replaced. The way it's replaced depends on which system is used. The most common hydroponic system is the passive system, which uses an aquarium bubbler to put oxygen back into the solution.

Plants can be grown rapidly without all the concerns of regular gardening. Although a hydroponics system can take some time to set up, you'll find it's well worth the effort.

For more information on hydroponics and the advantages over regular gardening go to http://www.about-hydroponics.info/information-on-hydroponics.html

About the author: Stephen Provis has an interest in plants and home gardening, and is owner of http://www.ultimate-hydroponics.info

Vegetable Gardens & Organic Matter

2008-11-18T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: David Selman, Tracker-Outdoors.com

Article: Organic matter improves soil as a growing medium for plants. It helps release nitrogen, minerals, and other nutrients for plant use when it decays. A mulch of partially rotted straw, compost, or undecomposed crop residue on the soil helps keep the soil surface from crusting, retards water loss from the soil, and keeps weeds from growing.Practically any plant material can be composted for use in the garden. Leaves, old sod, lawn clippings, straw, and plant refuse from the garden or kitchen can be used. Often, leaves can be obtained from neighbors who do not use them or from street sweepings.

The purpose of composting plant refuse or debris is to decay it so that it can be easily worked into the soil and will not be unsightly when used in the garden. Composting material should be kept moist and supplied with commercial fertilizer, particularly nitrogen, to make it decay faster and more thoroughly.

The usual practice in building a compost pile is to accumulate the organic material in some out-of-the-way place in the garden. It can be built on open ground or in a bin made of cinder blocks, rough boards, or wire fence. The sides of the bin should not be airtight or watertight. A convenient time to make a compost pile is in the fall when leaves are plentiful.

In building the compost pile, spread out a layer of plant refuse about 6 inches deep and add one-half pound or one cupful of 10-10-10, 10-20-10, or 10-6-4 fertilizer to each 10 square feet of surface. Then add 1 inch of soil and enough water to moisten but not soak it. This process is repeated until the pile is 4 to 5 feet high. Make the top of the pile concave to catch rainwater.

If alkaline compost is wanted, ground limestone can be spread in the pile at the same rate as the fertilizer. The compost pile will not decay rapidly until the weather warms up in spring and summer. In midsummer, decay can be hastened by forking over the pile so moisture can get to parts that have remained dry. The compost should be ready for use by the end of the first summer.

For a continuing supply of compost, a new pile should be built every year. Compost can be used as a mulch, or worked into flower beds and the vegetable garden.

When properly prepared and thoroughly decayed, compost is not likely to harbor diseases or insects. If the compost is used in soil where an attempt is made to control plant diseases, or if it is mixed with soil used for raising seedlings, the soil should be disinfected with chemicals recommended by your local Extension agent or State agricultural college.

About the author: None

Can your sundial really tell the time?

2008-11-17T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Hugh Harris-Evans

Article: ""I am a sundial, and I make a botch Of what is done far better by a watch""

So wrote Hilaire Belloc, but is this really fair? Sundials are the earliest known form of time-keeping having been used for some five thousand years. The Greek historian Herodotus stated that sundials were first used by the Chaldeans and Sumerians in Babylonia which was part of the modern Iraq. They used vertical rods on their buildings and noted the position of the shadow to record the passing of the hours. The concept was developed by the Greeks and Romans who constructed various different shapes of dial to enable them to tell the time and the season of the year. Usually these were bowl-shaped dials with vertical or horizontal gnomons (shadow-casters) and hour lines marked in the hollow of the bowl. Over the years more elaborate designs were produced until the advent of accurate clocks when the function of the sundial became more decorative than as a reliable means of telling the time.

The question is often asked ""Can a sundial really tell the correct time?"" to which you will receive the Alice in Wonderland reply that it depends upon what you mean by ""the correct time"". Our clocks and watches work on the basis of there being exactly twenty-four hours between one day and the next but, because of the eliptical nature of the earth's orbit around the sun, the time shown on the sundial will vary according to the seasons. In February by the clock the sun is almost fifteen minutes slow, whereas during the spring and summer months it gains and loses between four and six minutes in two cycles. At the other extreme in November the sundial appears to be some seventeen minutes fast. In fact the sundial is accurate on only four days of the year, about April 15, June 14, September 2 and December 25. Some sundials include a table showing the deviation from ""clock time"" according to the date.

The time indicated by the sun will also vary with the location of the dial. The sun travels across the sky at the rate of fifteen degrees per hour so every degree of longditude represents a difference of four minutes from the standard meridian for the region. The angle of the gnomon also depends on the situation, so to set up your sundial correctly you need to know both the latitude and longditude of its location. For the United States and the United Kingdom this <a href=""http://www.spot-on-sundials.co.uk/latitude.html""target=""_bl ank"">site</a> can provide the information. The gnomon should be set at the angle in degrees which is equal to the latitude of your location. The sundial can then be fixed with the gnomon pointing to the Pole Star. There are various ways of achieving this, the easiest of which, is to use a compass adjusted for the magnetic variation. Further details are beyond the scope of this article, but for those interested look at this <a href=""http://www.sundials.co.uk/setup.htm""target=""_blank"">site.</ a> If you have read this far you will have discovered that there is a great deal more to the sundial than a mere item of garden decoration. If this has piqued your interest in the subject, then you are not alone. There are Sundial Societies in countries around the world. The <a href=""http://www.sundials.org/""target=""_blank"">North American Sundial Society</a> has details of its objects and activities on its website.

A number of sundial trails have been established. A good example is the <a href=""http://www.sundials.co.uk/~thames.htm""target=""_blank"">Thame s Sundial Trail</a> in London, England. This site lists a number of other trails in countries all over the world but only two in the United States. However the <a href=""http://www.sundials.org/""target=""_blank"">North American Sundial Society</a> has a complete list on its website.

Two rather different designs are shown here. The first, which is commonly referred to as a <a href=""http://users.argonet.co.uk/education/sunclocks/""target=""_bl ank"">Human Sundial</a>, uses the person's shadow to indicate the time. By standing in the appropriate box for the date the shadow will show the correct time. The second is a <a href=""http://www.digitalsundial.com/""target=_blank"">Digital Sundial</a> which sounds like a contradiction in terms but in reality is just a rather clever design.

Many sundials have a motto inscribed on the face. Often these are rather serious in tone and of the ""Tempus fugit"" variety but you also find some written in a lighter vein. Here are a few of my favourites:

The shadow of my finger cast Divides the future from the past

The clock the time may wrongly tell, I never if the sun shines well

I stand amid the summer flowers To tell the passage of the hours

And finally again from Hilaire Belloc:

I am a sundial, turned the wrong way round. I cost my foolish mistress fifty pounds!

About the author: Hugh Harris-Evans is the owner of <a href=""http://www.garden-supplies-advisor.com"" >The Garden Supplies Advisor</a> where you will find further articles, gardening tips and product reviews.

Starting Vegetable Garden Seeds & Plants Indoors

2008-11-16T03:01:00.001-08:00

Author: David Selman, Tracker-Outdoors.com

Article: Starting Plants IndoorsSeeds can be germinated and seedlings started in a box, pan or flowerpot of soil in a window. In addition to having at least 6 hours of direct sunlight each day, the room must be kept reasonably warm at all times.

Washed fine sand and shredded sphagnum moss are excellent media in which to start seeds. Place a layer of easily drained soil in the bottom of a flat and cover this soil with a layer - about three-fourths inch thick - of either fine sand or sphagnum moss. Press the sand or moss to form a smooth, firm seedbed.

Then, using a jig, make furrows in the seedbed one-half inch deep. Water the sand or moss thoroughly and allow it to drain.

Sow seeds thinly in the rows and cover the seeds lightly with a second layer of sand or moss. Sprinkle the flat, preferably with a fine mist, and cover the flat with a sheet of clear plastic film. The plastic film diffuses and subdues the light and holds moisture in the soil and air surrounding the seeds. Plastic films offer advantages over glass coverings in that they are light in weight and are nonshattering. Place the seeded and covered flat in a location that is reasonably warm at all times and has 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. The flat will require no further attention until after the seedlings have developed their first true leaves. They are then ready to transplant to other containers.

It is seldom possible to keep the transplanted plants in house windows without their becoming spindling and weak. For healthy growth, place them in a hotbed, coldframe, or other place where they will receive an abundance of sunshine, ample ventilation, and a suitable temperature.

Strong, vigorous seedlings can be started under 40-watt fluorescent tubes. These tubes should be 6 to 8 inches above the seedlings. Temperatures should be about 60F at night and 70F during the day. Best results are obtained if the fluorescent fixture is next to a window to increase the amount of light reaching the young plants. Soil pellets are the simplest and easiest method for starting plants and are readily available from garden supply stores and other sources. Soil pellets are a well-balanced synthetic soil mixture and are free of soilborne diseases and weeds.

Special Devices for Starting Plants In determining the type of equipment for starting early plants, the gardener must consider the temperature and other climatic conditions in his locality, as well as the nature of the plants to be started. Hardy plants, such as cabbage, need only simple inexpensive facilities, but such heat-loving, tender seedlings as peppers and eggplant must have more elaborate facilities for successful production. In the warmer parts of the United States, and in the well-protected locations elsewhere, a coldframe or a sash-covered pit on the sunny side of a building usually suffices. In colder sections, or in exposed areas elsewhere, some form of artificial heat is essential. Where only a little protection against cold damage is needed, a coldframe in which a temporary bank of lamps can be placed may be sufficient. The hotbed, lean-to, or sash greenhouse heated by manure, pipes, flues, or electricity are all widely used, the choice depending on conditions. A comparatively small plant-growing structure will provide enough plants for several gardens, and joint efforts by a number of gardeners will usually reduce the labor of producing plants. The plant-growing structure should always be on well-drained land free from danger of flooding. A sunny, southern exposure on a moderate slope, with trees, a hedge, a board fence, or other form of windbreak on the north and west, makes a desirable site. Plenty of sunshine is necessary. Hotbeds and other plant-growing devices require close attention. They must be ventilated at frequent intervals, and the plants may require watering more than once daily. Convenience in handling the work is important. Sudden storms may necessitate closing the structure within a matter of minutes. Plant growing at home should not be undertaken by persons obliged to be away for extended periods, leaving the plant structure unattended. A tight well-glazed structure is necessary where the climate is severe; less expensive facilities are satisfactory elsewhere. Covers for hotbeds and coldframes may be glass sash, fiber glass, plastic film, muslin, or light canvas. In the moderate and cooler sections of the country, standard 3- by 6-foot hotbed sash is most satisfactory. Even this requires supplementary covering with canvas, blankets, mats, or similar material during freezing weather. The amount of covering is determined by the degree of heat supplied the structure, the severity of the weather, and the kind of plants and their stage of development. Farther South, where less protection is necessary, a muslin cover may be all that is needed and for only a part of the time.

Many substitutes for glass as coverings for hotbeds and coldframes are on the market. The most widely used substitutes are various kinds of clear plastic film. Some of these have a lifespan of only one season, and others a lifespan of 3 to 5 years. Clear plastic film transmits as much light as glass in the visible range, and more than glass in the ultraviolet and infrared ranges.

The film comes as flat sheets (on rolls) and in tubular form. Flat-sheet film is used for tacking onto wooden frames; the tubular form is used for enclosing metal tubular frames with a tight double layer of film. Large plant hoods made from semicircular aluminum or galvanized steel pipe and fitted with a sleeve of tubular plastic film make excellent coldframes or seasonal row covers. When used in this way, a double layer of plastic film provides an air space that insulates against 4 degrees to 7 degrees of frost temperature change. Electrically heated plant beds are ideal for the home gardener, provided electric rates are not too high. The beds may be built any size. Because they are equipped with thermostatic control, they require a minimum of attention. It is not possible to buy frames - completely equipped with heating cables, switches, and thermostats - ready to assemble and set in position. Fill the frames with soil or plant boxes and connect to a source of current. Small frames may be removed at the end of the season and stored; larger frames are usually treated as a permanent installation. For more detailed information, see USDA Leaflet 445, Electric Heating of Hotbeds.

Hardening Plants Plants should be gradually hardened, or toughened, for 2 weeks before planting in the open garden. This is done by slowing down their rate of growth to prepare them to withstand such conditions as chilling, drying winds, shortage of water, or high temperatures. Cabbage, lettuce, onion, and many other plants can be hardened to withstand frost; others, such as tomatoes and peppers cannot. Withholding water and lowering the temperature are the best ways to harden a plant. This may be done in a glass or plastic coldframe. About 10 days before being planted in the open ground, the young plants in beds or flats are blocked out with a large knife. Blocking, or cutting the roots, causes new roots to form quickly near the plants, making recovery from transplanting in the open easier. Blocking also makes it easier to remove the plants from the bed or flat with minimum injury. Southern-Grown Plants Vegetable plants grown outdoors in the South are shipped to all parts of the country. They are grown cheaply and usually withstand shipment and resetting very well. They may not always be as good as home-grown plants, but they save the trouble of starting them in the house or in a hot-bed. Plants of beets, brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, onions, peppers, and tomatoes are extensively grown and shipped; tomato, cabbage, and onion plants make up the bulk of the shipments. The plants are usually wrapped in bundles of 50 each and shipped by either mail or express. Tomato and pepper plants are packed with a little damp moss around the roots, but onion and cabbage plants are usually packed with bare roots. Shipments involving large numbers of bundles are packed in ventilated hampers or slatted crates and usually are sent by motor-truck or rail express. Shipments by air mail and air express are increasing. The disadvantages of using southern-grown plants are the occasional delays in obtaining them and the possibility of transmitting such diseases as the wilt disease of the tomato, black rot of cabbage, and disorders caused by nematodes. State-certified plants that have been carefully inspected and found as free of these troubles as can be reasonably determined are available. Southern-grown plants are now offered for sale by most northern seedsmen, by mail-order houses, and often by local hardware and supply houses.

Transplanting The term ""transplanting"" means shifting of a plant from one soil or culture medium to another. It may refer to the shifting of small seedlings from the seedbed to other containers where the plants will have more space for growth, or it may mean the setting of plants in the garden row where they are to develop for the crop period. Contrary to general belief, transplanting does not in itself stimulate the plant or make it grow better; actually growth is temporarily checked, but the plant is usually given more space in which to grow. Every effort should be made during transplanting to interrupt the growth of the plant as little as possible.

Plants started in seed flats, flowerpots, and other containers in the house, the hotbed, the greenhouse, or elsewhere should be shifted as soon as they can be handled to boxes, flowerpots, plant bands, or other containers where they will have more room to develop. If shifted to flats or similar containers, the plants should be spaced 2 or more inches apart. This provides room for growth until the plants can be moved to their permanent place in the garden. Most gardeners prefer to place seedlings singly in flowerpots, paper cups with the bottoms pierced for drainage, plant bands, berry boxes, or other containers. When the plants are set in the garden, the containers are carefully removed. Soil for transplanting should be fertile, usually a mixture of rich topsoil and garden compost, with a very light addition of a commercial garden fertilizer.

Moistening the seedbed before removing the seedlings and care in lifting and separating the delicate plants make it possible to shift them with little damage to the root system and with only minor checks to their growth. Plants grown singly in separate containers can be moved to the garden with almost no disturbance to the root system, especially those that are hardened for a week or two before being set outdoors. Plants being hardened should be watered sparingly, but just before they are set out, they should be given a thorough soaking. Plants grown in the hotbed or greenhouse without being shifted from the seedbed to provide more room and those shipped from the South usually have very little soil adhering to the roots when they are set in the garden. Such plants may require special care if transplanting conditions are not ideal; otherwise, they will die or at least suffer a severe shock that will greatly retard their development. The roots of these plants should be kept covered and not allowed to dry out. Dipping the roots in a mixture of clay and water helps greatly in bridging the critical transplanting period. Planting when the soil is moist also helps. Pouring a half pint to a pint of water, or less for small plants, into the hole around the plant before it is completely filled is usually necessary. A starter solution made by mixing 1/2 pound of a 4-12-4 or 5-10-5 commercial fertilizer in 4 gallons of water may be used instead of plain water. It is usually beneficial. Finally, the freshly set plants should be shaded for a day or two with newspapers.

Plants differ greatly in the way they recover from the loss of roots and from exposure to new conditions. Small plants of tomatoes, lettuce, beets, cabbage, and related vegetables are easy to transplant. They withstand the treatment better than peppers, eggplant, and the vine crops. When started indoors and moved to the field, the vine crops should be seeded directly in berry baskets or containers of the same size that can be transferred to the garden and removed without disturbing the root systems. Beans and sweet corn can be handled in the same manner, thereby often gaining a week or two in earliness.

Article by: Tracker Outdoors www.tracker-outdoors.com

About the author: None

Composting and Soil Improvements

2008-11-15T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: David Selman, Tracker-Outdoors.com

Article: Composting provides a great natural resource!

Where we live, the soil is black clay (north Texas). We have found that by using a compost, we can almost eliminate the need for commercial fertilizers to grow most vegetables, herbs and spices.

Our compost is lined with rail-road ties (4 tall) but is open on one side for easy access. We put hay, table scraps, garden scraps, firewood ash, and manure from our cattle and horses in it. The materials in the compost are ""turned"" from time to time. The soil from the compost is great for starting new plants of all kinds as well as being tilled into the soil of the garden. This organically rich soil helps make the black clay much easier to work and provides nutrients for the vegetables. Neighbors barns and livestock auction houses are great resources for manure. Composting provides an environmentally safe way to transform biodegradable waste products into rich and fertile soil.

For those of you who suffer from a high concentration of clay in your soil, composting is the answer. Composting will supply your garden with a continual source of rich humus that will loosen up clay based (heavy) soils, allowing the roots of flowers and vegetables to penetrate the soil. For folks with sandy soils, compost will perform the opposite function: it will bring soil particles together and help retain water for plants to use, while still allowing the soil to ""breath.""

A few of the best composting materials include leaves, shredded newspaper, grass clippings, farm manure, garden waste, sawdust and vegetable peelings. Household biodegradable refuse is not recommended because it's messy and attracts insects & rodents. These are items you deffinately don't want to use; bones, meat scraps, cat or dog manure, grease, diseased plants or walnut leaves.There are several companies that manufacture composting bins. Another option is to use scrap lumber, railroad ties or wood pallets. Make sure whatever you build is well ventilated to allow for the free movement of moisture and air, which will aid in the breakdown process. I use three wood pallets which I stand at right angles to each other. I tie these together to hold them in place. This makes it easy to access the compost, which needs to be periodically turned to aid in the breakdown stage.

Compost is a dark-colored, loose mixture of well-rotted organic matter that can be used by the gardener to improve garden or potting soil. Any organic matter such as garden waste is a good ingredient for compost. If soil is hard and crusty when dry or sticky when wet, vegetables do not grow properly. Good garden soil is loose, has high water-holding capacity and proper drainage. Put your compost pile in a well-drained area. A shady spot or a place behind bushes will shield the heap from view.

It is possible to accumulate materials in a loose pile but it is better to have an enclosure for the compost. This could be a pit dug 18 inches into the ground of any length and width or an above-ground structure. Either type of structure should be divided with a partition. One side can be used for composting material and the other for usable compost.

A rectangular pile 2 to 5 feet wide, 5 to 10 feet long and 2 to 4 feet high is adequate for most households. If space is not available, a single, tall pile can be used. Fresh material is added at the top and finished compost dug out at the bottom.

Build your compost pile in layers. First add 6 to 8 inches of garden refuse. Each layer of this organic material should be moistened. A little lime also may added to help the process and keep new soil from packing. Add 1 to 2 inches of soil. Repeat this process as composting material is available.

The top layer should be lower in the center to help collect moisture. Water may have to be added during dry weather to keep the pile going. Compost materials should be moist but not saturated.

Turn the pile with a garden fork a couple of times a month to hasten composting. In about a month the pile should be hot in the center indicating it is decomposing properly. If this doesn't happen, the pile may be too wet or too small. Fertilizer or more frequent turnings could be needed. A well-maintained, active pile will not attract rodents. When adding food scraps, bury them in the center of the pile.

Soil that is ready for use from a compost is dark, loose and has an ""earthy"" smell. Most organic materials should compost in 4-8 months.

Article By: Tracker Outdoors www.tracker-outdoors.com

About the author: None

Lawns, Gophers & Moles

2008-11-14T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Thomas Leo Ogren

Article: Lawns, Gophers & Moles Thomas Ogren A few gophers can tear up a nice lawn in short order. Even if you're a complete animal lover, you won't want the gophers in your yard. After they destroy your lawn they'll start eating the roots and killing your roses, fruit trees, any attempt at a vegetable garden, the bulbs you plant and so forth. Gophers and gardening don't go together at all! The gophers got to go. I have had many run ins with gophers in my years of gardening and I've always been successful in getting them out of the lawn and garden. I don't like killing them or any animals for that matter, but with gophers, they usually don't give you much choice. Poisons Resist the urge to use gopher or mole poisons. The poisons only work so-so, and the poisoned rodents may easily be eaten by an owl, snake, cat, or fox, and then they'll die too. If the predators are killed off the rodent population, unchecked, will quickly explode in number. Barn Owls If you're out in the country one of the best ways to get rid of both gophers and moles is to put up nesting boxes for barn owls. These big nesting boxes are generally perched on the top of 11 to 20-foot tall poles. The boxes and their poles are placed away from the house but not too far from the lawns and yards. A nesting family of barn owls will eat thousands of rodents each season, and they are very good at catching gophers and moles. If you live in an area where palm trees grow, and you do not trim off the dead branches that accumulate below the crown, sooner or later a barn owl will move in and set up home. Take advantage of this and leave a palm tree unsheared. The incredible number of rats, mice, moles, ground squirrels, and gophers they'll kill and eat is quite incredible. I now see in many orchards and vineyards, where they have put up these owl boxes. The owls are saving the farmers a lot of money. Nesting boxes for barn owls are usually made from plywood and the roofs are slanted so water will run off. Sometimes the roofs are shingled too. A nesting box for barn owls should be a minimum of 12 x 12 inches for the floor and at least 16 inches deep. The box should have small drain holes placed in the floor, in the corners. Small holes should be drilled around the top of the box on each side for air circulation. It is best to build the box so that it can be cleaned out easily once a year when the owls are gone. The box should have only one opening and this must be at least 3 ½ inches in diameter but not more than 5 inches wide. Too large an entrance hole will let great horned owls in and they'll eat up the barn owls. Horned owls eat rodents too, but are not nearly as tough on rodents as the smaller barn owls. *For a place to buy good owl boxes already made (they'll ship them to you) see the Owl Nestbox Resource Page under the links section of this book. At this site you can also find more detailed instructions on building your own owl boxes. The bottom line with barn owls is they are the most effective rodent killers in existence. The right family cat can also be a pretty good rodent catcher. Gopher snakes! I also know of quite a few people who have caught gopher snakes and then released them on their own property. The best way to catch a gopher snake or two is to drive very slowly in the country on a paved road that gets very little traffic. Pin the snake's head down with a stick, pick it up firmly from behind the head, and stick him in an old pillow sack. They're not poisonous but will often bite and the bites don't feel good either. The best time to go looking for gopher snakes is in spring and early summer, just before and just after dark. Evenings that are cold and windy will produce no snakes and nights will full moons are likewise not productive. Gopher snakes are, like barn owls, designed by nature to catch and eat gophers and moles. Gopher traps There are a number of gopher traps on the market but by far the best is the old Maccabee gopher trap made of heavy wire. These are tricky to set if you've never done it before, so buy them at a farm supply store and ask someone there to show you exactly how to set one before you leave the store. Trapping gophers is very effective if done right. 1.Tie a wire about two feet long on the end of the gopher trap and secure it to a sturdy metal or wooden stake. 2.Find the newest, freshest gopher mound. 3.Dig out the opening of the mound with a shovel, open up the tunnel and place the trap as far into the hole as possible. 4.Pound the stake down near the hole but not into the tunnel itself. The stake and wire will insure that you don't lose the trap. A trapped gopher may easily draw the attention of a cat, dog, hawk, owl, skunk or fox, and they'll run off with your gopher and your trap. The wire and stake keep that from happening. 5.Leave the opening of the hole open. The light coming into the hole will serve as bait, since the gophers intended for that hole to be closed. 6.Set several traps in different holes if possible. 7.Check the traps at least once a day and re-set them if you've killed a gopher or if the gopher has set off the trap and gotten away.

Water, smoke bombs, and road flares Sometimes you can get the gophers, and moles too, to move out of your territory just by flooding their holes. By all means go ahead and stick the garden hose down a few holes and give this a try. Usually though, flooding them doesn't work very well, if at all. Smoking them out works much better than flooding them. There are special gopher smoker bombs made and sold in all good nurseries and these work pretty well. What works even better than the gopher bombs are regular red road flares. You can buy road flares very cheaply too, at an auto parts store. They will usually come in several lengths and the longer ones burn longer and are more effective. At any rate road flares of any length work pretty well. Dig out the gopher mound and open up the tunnel. Light the road flare by twisting off the cap and then striking the tip of the flare with the end of the cap. Point it away from yourself so you don't get burned. Shove the lit end of the road flare into the gopher tunnel and then shovel some dirt back over the top of the opening. Stamp it all shut tight with the sole of your shoe. You'll see some of the smoke escaping up through the dirt. If you spot smoke coming up from another hole in the lawn, quickly go over there and plug up that hole. The smoke from road flares is sulfur smoke and it will stink out the entire tunnel. On occasion the gophers will be asphyxiated from the smoke and will die in the tunnels. More often though, they will take off for an area not anywhere near that stinky sulfur smoke. The smoke and its smell will persist in the tunnel for some time and the gophers will often simply abandon the tunnel. The gophers may well make several more attacks on your lawn and flower beds and you may need to smoke them several times and in several different tunnels to get rid of them. If the smoking doesn't work for you, buy some gopher traps…. or get a gopher snake. Moles Gophers are much larger than moles and they dig much larger holes and tunnels too. Gopher tunnels are often fairly deep into the ground but mole tunnels often run just under the surface of the lawn. Often you can just look at the lawn and see exactly where these mole tunnels are because they are pushed up just under the surface of the lawn. Gophers come into an area to eat the plants but moles are insect eaters and they don't actually eat any of your lawn at all. Moles seem to be much more common in high rainfall areas and are uncommon in drier, irrigated lawn areas. Moles and grubs There are many different traps made for killing moles but resist the urge to buy and use these. Poison baits for moles are not a good idea either. The moles are tunneling through your lawn for a reason. If you have moles in the lawn, you can be assured that you also have a lot of grubs in the lawn too. The moles are eating these grubs. The grubs can be up to about an inch long and they are usually white or gray and often have brown heads. Areas where grub infestations are especially thick will often show patches of lawn dying from the grubs. Grubs or Dogs? If you have a dead patch of lawn where the center of the patch is totally dead but the edges of the patch are extra green, this damage isn't from grubs, it's from dog urine. The nitrogen in the urine fertilizes the lawn that it doesn't outright overdose and kill. This is why the edges of the patch will be greener than the rest of the lawn.

Skunks? Sometimes a grub-infested lawn will attract nighttime raids by skunks. The skunks (and occasionally raccoons too) will tear up pieces of your lawn as they dig up the grubs to eat. The solution here is much the same as it is for getting rid of the moles. If the moles eat up all the grubs in your lawn they'll move on to a new grub-filled area. Of course, in the process they'll tear up your lawn. So, what to do? The most obvious answer is to kill off the grubs in the lawn. These grubs are larvae from any number of insect pests, and in the lawn they are also important pests of the lawn. Left unchecked, the grubs may well destroy most of your lawn by themselves. There are a number of organic or inorganic methods of killing off lawn grubs. Flooding the lawn seems to help to bring the grubs up closer to the surface, where they'll be easier to kill. Look for sources of these bio-controls in the Links section of this book, under IPM. IPM is short for integrated pest management and it is often very effective and safe. Most of the soil grubs are larvae of some kind or other of beetle. If the grubs are larvae of Japanese Beetles they can be attacked with Milky spore, which is an organic product that only attacks Japanese Beetles. There are bio-controls, safe biological agents that kill soil grubs. Heterorhabditis bacteriophora nematodes have shown good results for white grub control. Nematodes are tiny soil wireworms. This particular species will find the white grubs and kill them. These beneficial nematodes are available in mail order catalogs, often sold as Hb nematodes. They should be applied to already thoroughly watered lawns late in the day and then watered in immediately. These nematodes will not damage the lawn or other garden plants. Nematodes work fastest in sandy soils and slower in heavy, clay soils. Organic insecticides can also be used as a drench on your lawns and sometimes they're quite effective. A mix of water, soap, pyrethrum and rotenone will often kill most of the grubs. Even organic insecticides though will also kill off earthworms and other beneficial soil organisms. Chemical control For a chemical approach, a single treatment can be made between mid-July to mid-August. Commonly used chemical insecticides are chlorphyrifos (Dursban), carbaryl (Sevin), and soil diazinon. The pesticide must be watered into the soil well after use, or it won't be effective. Keep in mind that none of these chemical insecticides are healthful for the family dog, cat, the kids, or for the songbirds that might well eat some of the chemically poisoned earthworms or grubs. Some lawn experts will recommend use of the chemicals trichlorfon (Dylox), imidacloprid (Merit), or halofenozide (GrubEx) in mid-summer as a preventative measure against lawn grubs. Other preventative measures ·Keeping a lawn healthy won't keep grubs and moles out of it, but a healthy lawn can recuperate much faster after attack. · Mowing the lawn too short will weaken a lawn and make it more easily damaged by grubs. Mowing higher promotes a stronger root system. There is evidence too that grubs, as with most insect pests, will attack an unhealthy lawn before they do a healthy one. ·Keeping the nitrogen levels up and maintaining a good amount of humus in the soil sometimes helps to lessen the chance of grub damage. Grubs will attack any species of lawn, although the worst damage is usually seen on bluegrass lawns. ·Aerating the lawn makes for stronger roots and it also gives birds a better shot at picking out these grubs. Many birds that are attracted to our birdfeeders and suet feeders also will eat both the grubs and the beetles that the grubs come from. Encourage wild birds in your yard. ·When you water, water deeply. This will also help develop a stronger root system. ·Over-seed bluegrass lawns each spring with a mix of fescue or perennial ryegrass seed. If the grubs ruin the bluegrass, you'll still have a lawn. ·In heavily grub-damaged lawns, take a rake and rake the exposed soil up; this will expose the grubs to the birds. ·Soak grub infected areas with soapy water. Use a quart of liquid dish soap to several gallons of water and soak the lawn with this mix. It will kill grubs. ·Sometimes grubs can be held in check by dusting the lawn several times with diatomaceous earth. This safe product kills grubs that come to the surface and eat the grass leaves. ·Lastly, some people put on those spiked strap on sandals and walk around on their lawn, spearing grubs as they walk. Of course they're also aerating the lawn at the same time. I have no idea how effective this method is, but hey, it can't hurt.

About the author: Thomas Ogren is the author of Allergy-Free Gardening, Ten Speed Press. Tom does consulting work on for the USDA, county asthma coalitions, and the American Lung Associations. He has appeared on CBS, HGTV and The Discovery Channel. His book, Safe Sex in the Garden, was published 2003. In 2004 Time Warner Books published his latest: What the Experts May NOT Tell You About: Growing the Perfect Lawn. His website: www.allergyfree-gardening.com

Garden Soil Preparation

2008-11-13T03:01:00.001-08:00

Author: David Selman, Tracker-Outdoors.com

Article: Different types of plants each require varying degrees of soil acidity or pH. Some plants are very sensitive to soil pH levels. Some garden plants will prefer acid soils while others prefer an alkaline soil. The acidity or alkalinity of soil is measured by pH (potential Hydrogen ions). pH is a measure of the amount of lime (calcium) contained in your soil, and the type of soil that you have. Soils in moist climates tend to be acid and those in dry climates are alkaline. A soil with a pH lower than 7.0 is an acid soil and one with a pH higher than 7.0 is alkaline. The soil must be adjusted to suit the plant which will occupy that area if it is not already within that plants requirement range.Testing Your Soil pH Many garden centers will pH test a soil sample for you, or you can buy an inexpensive pH test kit at a nursery, or hardware stores. These test kits generally consist of a test tube, some testing solution and a color chart. You put a sample of your soil in the tube, add a few drops of test solution, shake it up and leave it for an hour or so to settle. The solution in the tube changes color according to the pH of your soil. Compare the color of the sample with the color chart that came with the kit. Matching colors will tell you the pH of your sample. Quality pH test kits will have a chart to help interpret the test result.Adjusting Your Soil pH Levels Once you have determined the pH you can make any needed adjustments to the soil. Materials to adjust your soil pH levels are available at your local garden center.Raising The Soil pH To Make It More Alkaline It is generally easier to make soils more alkaline than it is to make them more acid. Because different soil types react in different ways to the application of lime you will have to add more lime to clay soils and peaty soils than you will in sandy soils to achieve the same result.

To increase your pH by 1.0 point and make your soil more alkaline: Add 4 ounces of hydrated lime per square yard in sandy soils Add 8 ounces of hydrated lime per square yard in loamy soils Add 12 ounces of hydrated lime per square yard in clay soils Add 25 ounces of hydrated lime per square yard in peaty soils Correction of an overly acid soil should be considered a long term project, rather than trying to accomplish it in one gardening season. It is easier to test your soil each year and make your adjustments gradually. The addition of hardwood ash, bone meal, crushed marble, or crushed oyster shells will also help to raise soil pH levels.Lowering The Soil pH To Make It More Acid If your soil needs to be more acidic, sulfur may be used to lower the pH if it is available. To reduce the soil pH by 1.0 point: Mix in 1.2 oz of ground rock sulphur per square yard if the soil is sandy. Mix in 3.6 oz per square yard for all other soils. The sulphur should be thoroughly mixed into the soil before planting. Sawdust, composted leaves, wood chips, cottonseed meal, leaf mold and especially peat moss, will lower the soil pH. More Soil pH Tips Always read and follow the manufactures recommendations when using chemical products. Use appropriate protection such as a dust mask, and gloves. The best way to adjust pH is gradually, over several seasons. Lime should be applied only when tests show it to be necessary. If the soil is excessively alkaline, you may find that you are better off to build a raised bed using topsoil purchased from a nursery.

Article by Tracker Outdoors www.tracker-outdoors.com

About the author: None

12 Worst Trees to Plant in Your Lawn

2008-11-12T03:01:00.001-08:00

Author: Thomas Leo Ogren

Article: 12 Worst Trees to Plant in Your Lawn Tom Ogren

1.Fruitless mulberry trees: roots break lawnmowers and these trees really pump out the allergenic pollen. Shade is also too deep for lawns. 2.Sweetgum trees: big roots that poke out of the lawn. 3.Pine trees: root problems and pollen too. 4.Sycamore trees: usually grow way too large for most yards and they produce fuzz that makes people itch. 5.Cedar trees: a female cedar is a nice, pollen-free tree, but grows way too large for most houses and yards. 6. Magnolia trees: these have shallow roots and if you ever have to rototill your yard, if you have a magnolia tree in the lawn, you'll be sorry. Shade is too dense too for most lawns. 7.Lombardy poplars: these common trees grow fast and die young, leaving you with a huge mess. They also are male and produce lots of pollen. 8.Olive trees: unless it is a Swan Hill or some other non-flowering olive, this one will cause all kinds of allergies. The olives are a big mess too. 9.Walnut trees: nothing grows well under them and they produce lots of pollen and also smelly walnut fruit husks that draw flies. 10. Brazilian Pepper trees: roots are a problem for mowing, the shade is too deep for lawns, and they cause skin rashes and other allergies. 11. Seedless or fruitless Chinese Pistache trees: big producers of the most allergenic pollen. Slow to leaf out in spring. 12. Catalpa trees: slow to leaf out in spring and fast to lose their leaves in the fall. No real fall color at all and they are known to shed considerable amounts of allergenic pollen each spring.

Organic Gardening Is Cool

2008-11-11T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Joe Hickman, HaLife.com

Article: Gardening can add more quality to the way you live, and might even add quantity to your life. There are many benefits of gardening, particularly organic gardening. It's so much fun you may even forget what's bothering you.

Organic gardening is growing vegetables and fruits using whatever nature provides.

Organic gardening is cool.

1. It's not as boring.

You can easily make his own compost from garden and kitchen waste. Though composting takes a little longer than buying prepared chemical pesticides and fertilizers, it's surely less expensive and more rewarding.

2. Fewer chemicals on the food you and your family consume.

Pesticides contain toxins that have only one purpose -- to kill living things. One of the best known benefits of organic gardening is the zero tolerance for pesticide use, also the biggest reason for the boom of organic gardening.

3. Less harm to the environment.

Organic gardening has a beneficial effect on ground water. The Environmental Protection Agency says 38 states have multiple cases of contaminated ground water.

Organic gardening helps fight topsoil erosion. The Soil Conservation Service says commercial farming causes an estimated 30-32 billion tons of soil erosion from U.S. farmlands every year.

4. Saving money.

You don't need to buy costly chemical fertilizers and pesticides. Organic gardeners continually come up with great ideas, like fertilizing with stale coffee or used coffee grounds. And planting marigolds nearby to draw aphids away from vegetables.

Make a quart of garden pest spray with water and three tablespoons of a simple mixture of one 1 tablespoon of liquid dishwashing soap and 1 cup of cooking oil.

Mulch, used to keep moisture in and weeds out, can be created from grass clippings and pine needles.

5. Organic gardening feels good. You know you're helping safeguard future generations.

On the average, a child ingests four to five times more cancer-causing pesticides from foods than an adult, which can lead to numerous diseases later in life. The organic gardener is helping give today's children a healthier tomorrow.

Who wouldn't want that?

Go ahead. Search for ""organic gardening"" and learn more right now. By spring you'll be raring to go organic.

About the author: Joe Hickman, a veteran journalist, is editor at <a href=""http://halife.com"">HaLife.com</a>.

Best Trees for Growing in Lawns

2008-11-10T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Thomas Ogren

Article: Trees for Lawns

In order to be a good tree to grow in a lawn it needs a number of things going for it. In particular a good lawn tree:

1.Should be deciduous, meaning it should loose all of its leaves in the winter. This will let in light in the wintertime, when light levels are lowest. Deciduous trees also do not block any warming winter sunlight from reaching the house. Trees on the south or east sides of any house should always be deciduous, never evergreen. 2.Should have roots that do not creep upward into the lawn where they'll be hit by lawnmowers. Roots that grow up into the lawn are a real pain, hard to get rid of, and will easily ruin a lawnmower. 3.Should be attractive, or why else even plant it? 4.Should be fairly easy to grow, not too fussy. Always select trees that are know to be disease resistant. 5.Should be able to adapt to the irrigation a lawn will receive. Certain trees grow well in lawns and others, such as oaks, do not. Plant lawn trees that will thrive in a lawn area, even if it is frequently irrigated. 6.Should be a type of tree that will not have a negative allopathic effect on the lawn. For example, eucalyptus or walnut trees produce a substance that kills off other plants below them. 7.Should produce shade that is not too deep. No grass can grow in the deepest shade. Branches on lawn trees should ideally be kept fairly high. 8.Should not produce a lot of allergenic pollen. There's no point in planting a tree that will make you sick every year.

*Note: No lawn tree will grow well when it is young if the grass is allowed to grow right up to its trunk! I can't stress this enough. A young tree in a lawn should have an area underneath it that is kept totally grass-free for the first 4-5 years of the tree's growth. If lawn is permitted to grow right next to the trunk of a young tree, the tree's growth will almost always be stunted. Even after this period of time it is better to either keep the area immediately under the tree grass-free, or to plant a low-growing groundcover under it. Trunks of young trees should never be hit with weedwackers. String- trimmers ruin the tender bark of many young lawn trees, and then stunt their subsequent growth. Keep a clean area a minimum of 3'wide under any new lawn tree. Even though a lawn has shallow roots and there is little point in watering lawns much deeper than a foot, trees will develop deep roots. To make sure your new tree grows those deep, drought resistant roots, give it a really good soaking once a month from spring until fall. Just put a garden hose near the base of the tree, turn it on low, and let it soak for a long time. Watch mulch around the trunks of young trees! Mulching trees is a good idea but keep the mulch a few inches away from the actual trunk of the young tree. In the wintertime, especially where there is snow cover, it is a darn good idea to put a wrap of ¼ inch mesh chicken wire around the trunk, to keep mice and rabbits from eating the tender young bark. Many a new tree is killed because of wintertime damage to the trunk from rodents. If you live in an area where the winter temperatures get below zero F, it is a good idea to paint the trunks of new lawn trees white. The white paint will reflect the winter sun, and will keep the sap from warming up and starting to flow in the middle of winter. Painted trees are much less likely to get "winter sun scald," which is what they call it when the bark cracks and splits open, usually on the south side of the trunk. Use indoor grade white latex paint for this, and it is perfectly okay too, to paint some of the larger branches. This painting can be repeated each fall with good effect until the tree is about 7-8 years old. As the trees mature their bark will thicken and toughen up, and will naturally be more resistant to freezing and the winter sun. Make sure to fertilize the new trees twice each season. Use a fertilizer high in N, nitrogen, in the springtime, and a fertilizer low in nitrogen and high in potassium in the fall. Lawn grass that grows under trees may well need a bit of extra fertilizer through the growing season, as the tree roots will absorb much of the lawn fertilizer as well. There are devices with long, hollow spikes on them that screw on the end of a hose. You put the fertilizer for the tree in these contraptions, shove the spike down deep into the tree's root zone, and turn on the hose. This is a good way to fertilize lawn trees. Existing trees and planting new lawns Many a nice lawn tree has been killed when the owner decides to plant a new lawn, and hauls in extra topsoil to spread. If you cover the roots of a tree with several inches of additional soil, you may easily smother the tree roots, killing the tree. If the soil around an existing tree needs to be raised, then you need to build a "tree well," an area around the tree, at least four feet wide, where the original soil level is maintained. This is especially important with oak trees, which will quickly die if the soil level is raised right up to the trunk. Manure and lawn trees Never put manure right up to the trunk of a lawn tree. Fresh manure in particular is especially toxic to young trees. I have seen some pretty nice, large trees killed when their owners mulched them with a thick layer of supposedly "well-cured" horse manure. Even with compost, don't place it right next to the trunk of the tree!

Twenty-five Recommended Trees for your Lawn

1.Red Maple 'Autumn Glory': Zones 3-9. a large, rounded, handsome female, pollen-free tree, loses its leaves, easy to grow in bluegrass lawns. Great fall color. 2.Red maple ''October Glory': Zones 3-9 a female, pollen-free tree, does especially well in lawns and does not cast a deep lawn killing shade. 3.Red maple 'Bowhall,' Acer rubrum 'Bowhall,' is an attractive, pollen-free deciduous female tree, with excellent fall color. It grows narrowly upright and is a good lawn tree for smaller yards. Shade is not dense. 4.Crabapple 'Molten Lava,' Malus species, Zones 4-9. A smaller, very pretty, flowering crabapple tree, to 10' tall, with great flowers in spring and small red fruits in fall. Does fine in well-drained lawns, and is an especially disease resistant tree. 5.Crabapple 'Dolgo, Malus 'dolgo,' Zones 3-9, Pink buds open to fragrant, white flowers in late spring. Glossy, dark green foliage turns yellow in the fall and has good disease resistance. Large, almost florescent, bright red fruit ripening in early summer is excellent for crabapple jelly. A hardy tree with a spreading, upright and open habit. Does well in bluegrass lawns. 6.Crabapple 'Red Splendour.' Malus species, Zones 3-8. Greenish-red leaves with rose-pink flowers. Small red fruit stays on the tree well in to the winter. Good resistance to disease. An upright growing smaller crabapple tree, good in lawns. 7.Crabapple 'Snowcloud,' Zones 4-8, profuse double white flowers, mostly pollen-free and fruitless, bright green leaves, smaller tree, to 20 feet tall. Good in lawns. 8.Crabapple 'Sugar Tyme,' Pale pink buds open to fragrant, showy white blossoms that cover the tree in spring. A bounty of small, persistent, bright red fruit are produced in the fall and attract birds. This vigorous tree has crisp, dark green leaves and an upright, oval habit. One of the most disease resistant flowering crabapples. Good in lawns. To 20 feet tall. 9.Flowering plum: Prunus species, zones 4-10, a pretty, easy to grow tree, loses its leaves in fall, flowers in the spring, grows fast and likes frequent irrigations, as in a lawn. Shade is not dense. 10.Apricot trees, Prunus species, Zones 4-10: attractive, loses its leaves in fall, easy to grow in western areas, blossoms smell great, and the fruit is good. Should be pruned so that it is not difficult to mow under. Does not cast a dense shade. Good fall color too. 11.Fuyu persimmon trees, Diospyros kaki, Zones 4-10: slow growing, very attractive bark and leaves, shade not dense, fruit is beautiful, sweet and excellent, tree is female and pollen-free. Incredible fall color. 12.Pineapple Guava tree, Feijoa sellowiana, Zones 8-10, small evergreen tree. Best grown as a multi-trunked tree, to 18' tall, gray-green attractive leaves, white-red flowers, sweet green fruit. With age the tree becomes more and more attractive, the bark ever more interesting. 13.Honeylocust trees, Gleditsia triacanthos, all Zones, a nice, medium-sized shade tree. Loses its leaves in fall, grows well in lawns, and does not cast a deep grass killing type of shade. 14.Variegated Box Elder, Acer negundo 'Variegata', an attractive, smaller three-leafed maple tree, with beautiful variegated green and white leaves. Deciduous, female and pollen-free, easy to grow, and does well in lawns. Shade not dense. 15.Fringe tree, Chionanthus virginicus, Zones 5-10. If you can find one that has small black fruits on it, then it is a pollen-free female tree, a much desired lawn tree. Roots go down and stay down, foliage is very attractive, leaves lost in winter, attractive, lightly fragrant bright white flowers, grows well in lawns. Shade not dense. 16.Sourwood tree, Nyssa sylvatica, Zones 4-9. A small to medium-sized lawn tree, deciduous, excellent fall color. Female sourwood trees are pollen free; look for the exceptional cultivar called 'Miss Scarlet,' which has no pollen, terrific red fall color, and has attractive small ornamental blue fruit. These trees thrive in acid soils and will not do well with alkaline soil. 17.Japanese Raisin Tree, Hovenia dulcis, Zones 8`-10. The female trees have small, sweet, raisin-like fruit and are pollen-free. Raisin trees have beautiful leaves, are deciduous, grow well in lawns, and do not cast a deep shade. 18.Hardy Rubber Tree, Eucommia ulmoides, best in zones 5-7, is a large shade tree that does not cast deep shade. If you can find a fruiting tree, it will be female and pollen-free too. Roots stay down and tree grows well in bluegrass lawns. 19.Pomegranate tree, Punica granatum, Zones 7-10, makes a beautiful, small lawn tree if grown as either a single-trunked tree, or as a three-trunked tree. Pomegranate thrives where summer heat is high. Loses its leaves in fall, bright yellow fall color, shade not dense, attractive orange flowers and red fruit. Will grow well in a fescue, Bermudagrass, or St Augustine lawn. 20.Bougainvillea, Zones 9-10. Not normally thought of as a tree at all, a bougainvillea can easily be trained into an unusual and quite beautiful small lawn tree. The best way to do this is to pound a strong 8' metal stake, several feet deep into the ground, and then plant three one-gallon bougainvillea plants around the stake. Trim the plants back to one or two of the longest, most vigorous branches, and weave these up the stake. It takes about a year to develop this into a tree form. Keep the trunk leaf-free and shear the top several times a year for a lollypop shape. Best cultivars for this are 'San Diego Red' or the variegated 'Raspberry Ice' bougainvillea. There are some fantastic bougainvillea trees at Disneyland. 21.Quaking Aspen, 'Pendula,' Populus tremuloides 'Pendula' grows in all Zones. This is a medium-sized, pollen-free, female, weeping aspen tree, very attractive, good fall color, easy to grow, and is fast growing. Doesn't cast a deep shade and grows well in most lawns. 22. Black Poplar, 'Theves' Poplar, Populus nigra 'Afghanica' or P. n. 'thevestina' is an attractive, medium-sized, tall, narrowly upright shade tree, winter hardy in all zones. 'Theves' Poplar is female, pollen-free, and has bright yellow fall color. Good in lawns where a narrow tree is needed. 23.'Noreaster' Poplar, Populus 'Noreaster' is a good, larger shade tree for lawns. 'Noreaster' is a sterile female tree, so no seeds and no pollen. Does well in most bluegrass lawns and is winter hardy in even the coldest zones. 24.Japanese Paper Mulberry trees, Broussonetia kazinoki, are separate sexed and if you can find a fruiting tree, it will be pollen-free. These do not cast deep shade like most of the other mulberry species and will thrive in lawns in most cool areas. Winter hardy zones in 5-9. Paperbark maple, Acer griseum, Zones 4-8. This small to medium-sized maple tree has exceptionally beautiful bark and is totally handsome at all times of the year. Paperbark maple doesn't cast a deep shade and lawn will grow quite well underneath it. Best in soils that are well drained and slightly acidic.

Why Grow Organic?

2008-11-09T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: Frann Leach

Article: You may feel that growing your own produce is difficult enough, without adding to the problems by growing them organically. Well, you pays your money and you takes your choice, as they say, but for me, there are several reasons for going the whole hog:

<ul> <li>Firstly, you don't have to worry about handling all sorts of noxious chemicals, wearing special gear to use it, and all that <li>Secondly, in my opinion (your mileage may vary here), organically produced vegetables taste better <li>Thirdly, it's not really that much more work, the methods are different, but no more difficult <li>Fourthly, organic vegetables are better for you <li>And finally, why go to all that effort to produce a substitute for cheap factory-produced food? Much better to go for the good stuff! </ul>

<H2>Eat more fruit and veg for health</H2>

The British Government is always telling us to eat more healthily. They say everybody should consume a minimum of five portions of fruit and vegetables every day.

But how many chemicals are there in that much conventionally farmed produce?

Organic fruit and veg may be hard to find at a decent price. And if you do find a supplier, often the organic produce that is on offer is not very attractive. It may be better for you — but it looks horrible, not at all appetising.

So what's the solution?

<H2>A shock, and a realisation</H2>

Around about 1992, I had two young children, aged 2 and 4 years. I was trying to give them a healthy diet, and they loved carrots. Every day they would grab at least one carrot each from the vegetable rack, sometimes more. I was pleased. ""They're getting good fibre, vitamins, stuff for their eyesight, and the chewing is good for their teeth,"" I thought.

Hah.

I was watching the news one day, when a very strange item came on (like something out of a science fiction story, I thought at the time). The Government was issuing a Health Warning on... carrots!!! Apparently, because of a rise in some pest or other (I know now it was carrot fly), farmers had been using huge amounts of pesticide chemicals, so much so, that the carrots produced contained dangerous amounts. The advice was to peel them before use.

To say I was surprised by this announcement would be an understatement — stunned more like, not to say angry. My kids were being subjected to high levels of chemicals, not just from carrots, but presumably from all sorts of other supposedly 'healthy' food. And there was no way to tell: you certainly couldn't distinguish a carrot full of pesticides from one that wasn't, just by looking at it.

I also realised something else: carrots are a root vegetable. And if a root is surrounded by something, it takes it in and absorbs it, like a sponge. So peeling a carrot wasn't going to do much good, if the problem was an excessive level of chemicals.

I was living in an area with no organic retail outlets. The only supermarket was K**kS*ve. I had no transport. The only solution was to grow my own. So that is what I did — with no previous experience of gardening (apart from my cactus collection). If you've got a good enough reason, you can do anything.

That was 12 years ago now, and I haven't looked back. Not only have I grown lots of really nice food (much tastier than the shop-bought stuff), but I've had fun doing it, too.

So, if you have any experience of gardening, or none, visit the <a href=""http://www.gardenzone.info"">GardenZone</a> and I will show you how to get started. Exactly what to do, in English, not garden jargon (you will get to know what the terms mean, but to start with they are too confusing).

About the author: Frann lives in Edinburgh, Scotland. She has her own internet marketing business and is always on the lookout to recruit go-getters like herself. Find out more: <a href=""http://www.gardenzone.info"">here</a>

Watering Your Orchids

2008-11-08T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Bob Roy

Article: Watering Your Orchids

Once you get the hang of it you will be a pro at watering. Most orchid plants are epiphytes (air plants) and we are used to watering plants in soil. Air plants have pseudo pods which take up the water and hold it for the plants to drink. The root system looks dry but may not be. If there is enough water you will notice the roots have plumb looking parts which are the pseudo pods.

Here are some guidelines that you can use for watering: <table>

<tr> <td>water more often if</td> <td>water less often if</td> </tr> <tr> <td>there is more light</td> <td>the is less lights</td> </tr> <tr> <td>temperatures are higher</td> <td>temperatures are lower</td> </tr> <tr> <td>humidity is lower</td> <td>humidity is lower</td> </tr> <tr> <td>there is more air movement</td> <td>less air movement</td> </tr> <tr> <td>plant has thin leaves and growth</td> <td>plant has thick leaves and growth</td> </tr> <tr> <td>it is mounted on a slab or in a basket</td> <td>it is in a pot</td> </tr> </table>

Over watering is the most common mistake of beginners. The plant shows water which may e covering the root system. If this occurs it means the roots are not getting the oxygen it needs and may go on to die. You will also notice some of the leaves may be turning yellow and drop off (also a sign of under watering). The pseudo pods will have furrows which run the length of them. The leaves will become thinner, won't fully expand and will wilt.

Under watering is usually the case if the plant is in a direct sun for long periods of time. Some of us will only mist the plant instead of watering. The signs of under watering are essentially the same as over watering. The thinner leaves of the plants especially Miltonias will have accordion like leaves.

The treatment for over watering is to re pot as soon as possible. As re potting is taking place cut off the roots that do not look healthy. Re pot in a coarser medium. This will allow the plant to get the support it needs. Be sure that the plant dries out before being watered next.

Occasionally you plant may not have any viable roots and may not respond to re potting. If this is the case then I would recommend that you place the plant and container in a clear plastic bag and loosely tie it and place it in indirect light. The humidity will help.

Occasionally with over watering you will notice that the roots and then the rest of the plant may turn black. This is ""black root"" disease. Use a fungicide on this and probably you can save it.

For under watering the main stay of treatment is to water more frequently. If the plant feels loose in the pot then re pot it. Once you do this you will notice that there will be less wilting and greener healthier leaves. If there is still some wilting the plant will need more humidity. This can be accomplished by placing the plant on a tray that has pebbles in it and is half full of water. Remember you do not want the roots to sit in water.

About the author: Owner and President of several websites, orchids-plus-more.com and physician-on-health.com. A physician by training and website entrepreneur by avocation.

10 Tips for Successful Rose Planting

2008-11-07T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Kathy Burns-Millyard

Article: Planting roses isn't actually complicated, as long as you have some good advice and tips to start with...

1. Check with your local gardening center or florist for the best type of roses to grow in you climate. If you are a novice, you should look fo? disease resistant types of roses because they require a lot less maintenance.

2. When planting roses, you want to pick a spot that is well lit in the morning. You also want an area that is sunlit for at least 6 hours a day. Roses need a great deal of light if they are to grow properly. If you live in a really hot climate though, you'll probably get the best results by not planting your roses in direct sunlight.

3. Pick an area that has plenty of well drained soil. Great soil has a PH level where the amount of acid in the soil is at about 5.5-7.0. You can get a testing kit for your soil at any garden center.

4. Organic matter like manure or lime helps to nourish the roots of your roses. You should soak the roots in water or puddle clay for many minutes, and cut off any root's ends that are broken.

5. The first 3-4 weeks after planting your roses, you should water them often. Usually this is when the top 2 inches of soil is dry. Roses need a lot of hydration and food to remain healthy.

6. Four weeks after planting, you should start soaking the bed every 2 weeks or so. You should do this in the morning for the best results.

7. Begin fertilization approximately 3 months after planting. Use 3-6 inches of mulch to control the moisture, temperature, and to stops weeds from coming up. Mulch also helps to lock in the vital nutrients your roses need in order to remain healthy.

8. Planting in the Spring is the best.

9. You want to plant your roses in an area that is well circulated with air. Your roses will not grow in an enclosed or tight area.

10. Dig a hole that is two times bigger than the amount of space that your roses take up. It makes it easier to plant them and creates a spaced area for them to grow with freedom. Poor circulation for your roses can cause fungal diseases. Using a larger hole also makes it easier for you to pull them up later and pot them if you'd like.

About the author: This article is provided courtesy of <a href=""http://www.Garden-Source.com"">http://www.Garden-Source.com< /a> - You may freely reprint this article on your website or in your newsletter provided this courtesy notice and the author name and URL remain intact.

Caring for a Living Christmas Tree

2008-11-06T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Sherri Allen

Article: The Christmas season brings with it many decisions to be made. Among them is, ""What type of Christmas tree should I put up?"" This year, consider a living Christmas tree. Not only will you enjoy it through the holidays, but a living tree can be planted in the garden to enhance your landscape and spark wonderful memories for years to come.

To allow your living tree to thrive in your garden, you must provide it with a small amount of special care. The following tips from the National Christmas Tree Association will help ensure your living tree's success:

• The adaptability of the species should be considered. Many species are shipped outside of their natural area and may not be adaptable to other areas. Check with a reliable nursery or extension forester.

• Keep in mind that living trees are VERY heavy and bulky. A six foot tall balled and burlapped tree will weigh as much as 250 pounds.

• Protect the tree from the elements. The tree should be stored in an unheated, sheltered area such as a garage or porch, out of the wind and sun. Do not expose the tree to freezing temperatures at any time.

• The tree will need adequate water. The root ball or soil should be kept slightly damp but not flooded. Wrap the root ball of a balled tree in plastic or place in a tub while it is in the house.

• Living trees may be decorated, but with care. If lights are used, they must not give off any heat.

• Avoid extreme temperature changes. Do not remove the tree directly from a warm house out into freezing temperatures. Instead, move to a sheltered area first for several days.

• Plant the tree as soon as possible. If the ground is not frozen, the tree may be replanted. The spot to be dug should be mulched to prevent freezing.

• Do not remove the burlap and strapping (unless it is plastic). This keeps the root ball solid and secure. In the instance of a plastic cover, cut the cord and roll down the plastic at least half way prior to planting. Tap the tree container of a potted tree and remove prior to planting. Do not attempt to remove soil from the root system. Earth removed from the original hole should be backfilled around the root ball. Mulch heavily over the top of the planted root ball to prevent it from freezing. Water only as needed: a flooded tree may not survive.

• Provide support for the tree. Stake the tree to prevent wind tipping or damage during the first growing season.

Try a living Christmas tree. With proper care, it will keep bringing you enjoyment throughout the years.

About the author: Sherri Allen is the editor of an award-winning website devoted to topics such as family, food, garden, house&home and money. For free articles, information, tips, recipes, reviews and coloring pages, visit http://www.SherriAllen.com/

Choosing the Right Roses for your Garden

2008-11-05T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Kathy Burns-Millyard

Article: There are literally hundreds of types of roses that you can grow in your garden. With such a selection to choose from, it can be extremely difficult to choose the rose that's right for you. To make this task a bit easier, We've outlined a few important factors you should consider, and explained some of the different types of roses to aid in your search.

Tips on Choosing Roses

1. Color may seem trivial at first glance, but it's usually an important factor to those that want to grow roses. Usually it is simply a matter of personal preference, but you may want to try creating a complimentary color palette for your rose garden.

2. The final growth height of a rose should be considered as it would be unattractive to grow roses that are higher than the area of the garden that it grows in. Some roses can grow to be as high as 20 feet.

3. If you live in an area that is prone to cold winters, you would certainly want a rose that could survive during the off season.

4. If certain fragrances invoke an allergic reaction, you'll want to plant roses that have a softer fragrance than the others.

5. It's smart gardening to learn what the advantages and disadvantages would be if you were to choose certain roses over others.

6. You will want to consider the size of your garden space, so that you can ensure proper exposure to the air and other elements as well.

7. If you are hoping to make your roses into bouquets, you will want to know if they can be cut. Hybrid teas can. Some roses will fall apart at the petals if they are cut.

8. You should also consider what other types of flowers or plants you intend on adding to the rose's environment. You want to add plants and flowers that will not create a damaging environment to your rose's ecosystem.

Some Common Types of Roses

After you get a sense of the type of roses that you would like to plant, you'll naturally want to know which types of roses best fit with your planting ideas. There are too many varieties of roses to list here, but this list covers some of the most popular. You should consult your nearest garden center for advice on whether your choice is fitting to your garden's abilities.

Landscape roses - Landscape roses are great for the novice gardener. They are disease resistant, and require a little bit less maintenance. Hybrid teas are not good for the novice.

Climbing Roses - These roses are different from the regular roses that are planted as they are trained to grow upward like vines. Most people like to use these for trellises, or buildings. Some of them are hybrid teas, wichuraine, and large flowered climbers. They are a beautiful addition to the look of one's house.

Shrub Roses - Shrub roses like the beautiful rugosa are both long blooming, and disease resistant. These are also great for the novice planter. They are gorgeous even when they are not in bloom because the foliage is so pretty.

Old Garden Roses - These roses are not very good for those with severe allergies to strong fragrances because they have a strong fragrant odor. However, they are disease resistant and continue to bloom for months at a time.

The Modern Rose - These are very special roses because they are the result of cross breeding the hybrid tea with the polyanthus. They are also referred to as Floribunda. They are a beautiful combination of the best those two flowers have to offer. They are long blooming, fragrant, and they are great for cutting.

Miniature Roses - Miniature roses are exactly what they sound like. They have all of the fragrance and beauty of a regular rose, but they have smaller blooms. These particular roses are great for indoor planting.

While note all inclusive, this article should be a great help in getting you started on the way to having your very own, gorgeous rose garden.

How to Care for Your Outdoor Water Fountains

2008-11-04T03:02:00.001-08:00

Author: Kathy Burns-Millyard

Article: Garden lovers around the world love putting fountains among their flowers, plants, bushes and shrubs. And with the Christmas season upon us in the U.S., many garden lovers may get their very first fountain as a gift this year.

Fountains make wonderful gifts year round. They're beautiful to look at, and fit well with almost any landscape. They're also quite serene and have a wonderful calming effect. So if you're getting or giving an outdoor water fountain for a gift this year, here are a few caretaking tips you'll want to have on hand...

Many outdoor fountains are made of concrete, and concrete expands and contracts in cold weather. If at all possible, you should move your concrete fountain indoors for the winter.

If you're not able to move it indoors, check it frequently to see if there's water collecting in it. You should keep it completely dry during the winter months.

If your fountain will stay outdoors throughout the winter, you also need to remove the pump and store it indoors. Fill, wrap, or cover the fountain with blankets, burlap bags, tarp or other protective materials to help shield it from severe cold. Be sure you have the fountain covered entirely for maximum protection.

During warmer months, you'll want to clean debrise - leaves and twigs for example - from your fountain at least once each week. Take particular care to clear any debris from around the pump as well, so it doesn't clog.

Add a small touch of bleach or special algae removing solution to your fountain regularly, to keep the water clear and prevent residue or algae buildup around the sides. If your fountain is accessible to pets and animals: do not use bleach. Instead, be sure to use an animal friendly cleaner such as Microbe-Lift Fountain Clear (<A HREF=""http://www.buy-outdoor-fountains.com/Microbe-Lift-Large-Fou ntain-Clear.php"">http://www.buy-outdoor-fountains.com/Microbe-Lif t-Large-Fountain-Clear.php</A>).

Following these simple maintenance tips will help keep your outdoor fountains in tip top, beautiful condition for many years to come.

About the author: © 2004, Kathy Burns-Millyard. This article is provided courtesy of <A HREF=""http://www.Buy-Outdoor-Fountains.com"">http://www.Buy-Outdoo r-Fountains.com</A> - You may freely reprint this article on your website or in your newsletter provided this courtesy notice, the copyright notice, the author name and URL remain intact.

Pruning Your Orchid Plants

2008-11-03T03:00:00.000-08:00

Author: Robert Roy

Article: Pruning Your Orchid

The flowers have all died and when should you cut the stalk back and how far?

Pruning an orchid stalk (spike) should cause no harm to the plant. However, some orchids will produce new bloom shoots from the nodes on the old blossom stalk, or some plants will produce small baby plants (pups) from these nodes. The new plants may be removed and potted after they develop roots. Of course, some orchids do neither of these things. In either case, it doesn't hurt the plant if you remove the old bloom stalk; you may just miss some new blossoms or a baby plant.

Once the stalk turns yellow or brown, it is obvious that no blossoms or plants will be produced. You can then cut it to within an inch from where the blossom stalk originated on the plant. You can also cut it there when it is green if you don't mind losing potential blossoms. Another option is to just remove the end of the blossom stalk to shorten the stalk, but retain enough so that it may bloom again. If you do this, cut it back to about 1/4 inch above a node (indicated by a small leaf-like bract clasping the stalk).

About the author: Author and webmaster of Orchids-plus-more.com. This site is primarily about orchid plants and also a commercial site.

How to Grow Asparagus

2008-11-02T03:00:00.001-08:00

Author: Hans Dekker

Article: Asparagus is a perennial plant with erect, edible stems and tiny branches that bear even tinier flowers that become red berries that contain the black Asparagus seed. Formerly in the Liliaceae family, botanists have realized that Asparagus is in a class by itself and have repositioned its 120 species in the Asparagaceae genus. Asparagus is a high-end gourmet food item, but if you know how to grow asparagus, it becomes an inexpensive way to add a delicate flavor to your meals.

Knowing how to grow asparagus dates back 2500 years ago when it was first cultivated in Greece. In fact, asparagus is from the Greek word for stalk or shoot. Long before it was used as a food item, asparagus was lauded for its medicinal properties. There are many reasons to grow asparagus. Once an asparagus bed is established, asparagus is the first vegetable that is table ready in the springtime and will provide your family with a firm and fresh vegetable treat for up to 20 years, each crown in your bed producing up to ½ pound of spears per year. Although supermarkets stock both canned and frozen asparagus, neither compares to the unique flavor you get from freshly harvested and picked asparagus.

As asparagus plants grow, they produce a mat of long, tubular roots that spreads horizontally rather than vertically. This one-year-old root system is called the asparagus crown. Although asparagus can be started from seed, it's most often begun from transplanting crowns purchased from a reputable crown grower. Those who wish to learn how to grow Asparagus must have an abundance of patience, since it takes an asparagus bed three years to be established from crowns. The second year of growth, asparagus ferns emerge with a few spindly spears. At the third year, although your bed will produce thicker and more robust spears, they shouldn't be harvested for more than one month to allow roots and crowns to become further established.

Plant asparagus crowns in a trench that is one to two feet wide. Set the crowns up to six inches deep and nine to twelve inches apart. Asparagus grows easily in any well-drained soil. Found growing wild on English riverbanks, the delicate asparagus ferns were nicknamed "sparrow grass". However, asparagus allowed to stand in water develops root rot, which can quickly destroy a complete bed. Asparagus roots have a tendency to "rise" as the bed matures. Gardeners typically add soil to the rows of a mature asparagus bed to keep the crowns undercover. Asparagus is also susceptible to late spring frosts, which kill emerging spears Take care to keep your asparagus bed covered until frost danger is past.

About the author: Gardener and owner of <a href=""http://www.gardening-guides.com"">Gardening-Guides.com""</a> Visit our website for more information and free-articles

How to Grow Avocado

2008-11-01T03:00:00.001-07:00

Author: Hans Dekker

Article: So, if you're a fan of the avocado, chances are you already know how to grow avocado plants. Although the avocado tree is a tropical plant that thrives only in zones 9, 10, and 11, many gardeners grow avocado plants indoors, they grow it as a houseplant. Avocado plants are typically started from the seed in the center of the fruit. Many gardeners begin their avocado plants by piercing the seed with toothpicks and then suspending it (pointed end up) over a glass, vase, or jar of water. You can keep the water sweet by adding some charcoal in the bottom of your container. In two to six weeks, if the seed germinates, you should have a young plant, ready to pot. However, not all avocado seeds will germinate in this way. If your seed hasn't sprouted in six weeks, toss it out and try again.

Another method of how to grow avocado plants is leave the pit in the sunlight until is begins to split and then potting it in soil partly exposed like an amaryllis bulb or sweet potato vine. Use a four or five-inch pot to start your plant and set it in a nutrient rich potting soil that has good drainage. After your plant is about a foot tall, pinch it back to half. Pinching it back produces a rounder and fuller plant. Once your plant has filled its pot with roots, it's time to move it to its permanent home.

When you're learning how to grow avocado plants, don't expect fruit. Avocado trees take up to ten years to mature enough to bear fruit and indoor grown plants rarely last for that length of time. However, if you provide it with a moist soil, plenty of sunlight, and fertile soil, your avocado plant will be an interesting addition to your home container garden for three to five years.

About the author: Gardener and owner of <a href=""http://www.gardening-guides.com"">Gardening-Guides.com""</a> Visit our website for more information and free-articles