Friday, February 24, 2006

Burnings Bushes ....Brilliant Fall Foliage

Author: B Hirst

Article: Burning Bush (Euonymus alatus)

A deciduous shrub from the Staff-Tree Family (Celastraceae)

Burning Bush, a non-native species from China and Korea, has escaped from the ornamental plantings into neglected urban and rural areas. It travels by way of its seed. This vase-shaped shrub has outstanding red fall foliage, which blazes for weeks in early to mid-autumn. Burning Bushes are usually sheared into hedges or globes in landscape plantings. If left unpruned, the compact form of Burning Bush will grow to about 12 feet tall and 15 feet wide, and the species (winged) form will grow to about 15 feet tall and 20 feet wide. In our area it propagates naturally in shaded areas. We obtain some of our stock from seedlings we gather from a small farm cemetery on our property.Burning Bush is adaptable to a variety of soil conditions. Fertile to sterile, organic to clay, acidic to alkaline, rocky to sandy this plant proves its vigor. It does not like wet soils, but does well in dry soils. Its small fiberous roots are near the surface and responds well to root pruning. Balling and burlapping this shrub does little damage for the plant can take abuse and recover quickly. If you have a brown thumb, then this plant is for you. You can see more of Bill's planting tips and articles at http://www.seedlingsrus.com or http://www.zone5trees.com

About the author: Bill writes about trees, plants,and shrubs. His main farm is in Doylestown Pa. and he has a total of 23 farms and ranches.

Details Of Lawn Mower Blades

Author: Andrew Caxton

Article:

The lawnmower blades are made of tool steel or ordinary steel called mild steel or carbon steel. The edges of the blades made of tool steel remain sharp for longer time and will require lesser sharpening over the age of the blade. Tool steel blade is costly and generally cannot be sharpened at the DIY workshop.The mild steel or carbon steel is cheaper and easy to maintain. The blades have to be kept sharp. If this is not done, grass blades will be torn off instead of being cut. Apart from the obvious ugly look, the growth of grass blades is adversely affected as the moisture retention capacity of blade is reduced.</p>

<b>Sharpening Of Lawnmower Blades the DIY Way</b></p>

You can sharpen the <a href=""http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com/lawn-mower-b lades.html"">lawnmower blades</a> your self quickly and easily. This operation can take a very short time.The procedure is very easy and you can do it yourself. The following procedure will apply irrespective of the <a href=""http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com"">type of lawnmower</a>. Consult the operation manual of your lawnmower for removal of blades.</p>

Be sure to disconnect all the power sources before begin with the process. In case that your lawn mower was a battery powered one, then remove the battery or batteries, depending on the model. Check twice that all the power controls are off to avoid an accidental engine start.

The second step will be finished as soon as you remove the blades totally from the mower. You might need external help to achieve it, using a couple of spanners may help a lot, however be sure that it doesn't slip. BE careful while doing this, because it's easy to cut yourself whether the spanner slips.

Once the blades are out of the mower, you need the number them in order to fit them back later.

Fix a blade in a stable holding or a vice to work easily.

The sharpen process begins here. You will need a grinder or file for it. Make sure to follow the blade's contour and sharpen it to your convenience. Sharpen all blades using the same sharpened to a perfect later cutting grass.

Time to refit the blades along. Make sure to do it along with balancing, if it exists any.

There is an option of sharpen blades without removing them from the mower, however it's uncomfortable as well as more difficult. You will also need a flexible shaft angle grinder to a perfect sharpened, which will save you time.

The last step is the blade balance checking. To carry the blades balancing you need a balancer. A clue to find whether or not the blades are correctly refitted, is checking if the mower vibrates, if so then blades are not well balanced.

About the author: Andrew Caxton contributes adding reviews and special articles regularly to http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com. A gardening website that carries interesting readings on lawn equipment and lawn mower parts, including how to sharpen blades http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com/lawn-mower-blades. html

Deer Don't Eat Dragons!!

Author: Bill Hirst

Article: Ilex 'Dragon Lady'

Dragon Lady Hollies are plants for zone 6b-8a. These hollies are thought of as perfect columnar hollies. These hollies can reach 20' in height and 6' in width. The leaves being smaller than most hollies with stiff, pointed spines are not very tasty to deer. This is one of its many benificial points if your landscape has a high deer population in the area. This holly can be used as a specimen or a hedge, is self fruiting with glossy green foliage and a reddish tint on the new growth. To bad all hollies are not like this! The Dragon Lady holly will leave open spots in its growth. Hard pruning generally helps correct this detraction but makes full plants more costly to produce. You can expect a 4-5' holly, being well developed within 6-7 years from a 2 gallon liner. This plant is a sharp looking plant in your landscape. There is no doubt that this will be a plant that you will see more of. It holds up well for us and we have large herds of deer at our Doylestown nursery.

Damage to seedlings by deer will increase as it has over the past 20 years. We don't believe that there are any 100 per cent effective methods to stop deer damage except 10' high woven wire fences that are to costly for most small growers and homeowners. Human populations moving to rural areas will continue. Loss of huntable land will increase as will deer populations. Deer having multiple births coupled with increasing gun regulation is likly to continue. This means plant selection will become more important.

There are few natural controls for deer populations especially in urban areas. Planting shrubs that repell deer is your most effective means to avoid deer damage. Opening your land to hunting is an effective alternative practice for lowering deer populations. Since deer are nocturnal, hunting may not be totally effective. On our farm we have lots of feed, our plants, but little cover which is where the deer are durring hunting seasons. This means that you must have an integrated pest management plan. This plan should include the following: popualtion management(hunting), repellants, selecting resistant plants, fencing, knowledge of deer habits for integrating your management plan. The Dragon Lady holly is not eatable for deer.

Deer feeding will occur on fertilized and unfertilize plants. Most browsing of seedlings will occur at night. By planting less-preferred seedlings and ornamental trees and shrubs in unprotected areas and surrounding preferred seedlings by less-preferred seedlings, deer damage is lessened. Susceptible plants shoud be fenced or planted near occupied structures. Backyard dogs are effective in keeping deer away. Your knowledge of deer feeding habits should be your first line of defence. A plan based on this knowledge will provide seedlings growers with less expensive alternatives to dangerous chemiacls repellants and hard to maintain fences and physical barriers. Deer are creatures of habit. Deer are not going search in the woods for scarce food when it is available in quanity and quality in your back yard. Once they find easy to browse plants in your landscape, they will become like giant rats invading you backyard at night. They will return night after night and eat you nursery stock until it is gone. Some deer in certain areas will eat holly and white pines, while deer in other areas won't. Therefore plant preference lists are only rough guides to deer damage susceptibility.

In general browsing damage to nursery stock will be highest when snow or extreme weather reduces food availability. Succulent young growth is an attractive deer food source in the spring time. When food is in short supply deer will feed on less desireable plants. Deer eat a variety of vegetation including woody plants, fruits, nuts, ornamental trees, shrubs, vines, grasses, and garden vegetables. Landscaping based deer feeding habits will reduce or eliminate costly browsing damage to your nursery stock and ornamentals.

Always try and reduce deer herds. Fewer deer mean less browsing pressure. We once had a deer hunt where hunters paid 100 dollars each to a police gun fund for the control of deer on our nursery that is located next to Peace Valley Park. For weeks the control worked and deer damage was controlled.

Some people use soap bars. Leave the soap in its wrapper and drill a hole thru the bar. Attach the soap bar with twine to a branch and allow it to hang 3-4' off the ground. Hang the bar away from the center of the tree. This will act as a natural repellant for deer. Use multiple bars for large nursery stock and trees.

Other Seedlings and Liners We Recommend:

Boxwoods Red Osier Dogwood Russian Olive Rose of Sharon Hollies Leucothoe River Birch Trees Japanese Cedars Blue Spruce trees Austrin Pine Barberries Andromeda

Highland Hill Farm Po. Box 517 Fountainville, PA 18923 (215-345-0946) http://www.seedlingsrus.com or http://www.highlandhillfarm.com

About the author: This plant is a deer resistant plant that has many qualities.