The Container Vegetable Garden

Author: Vince Apps

Article: If you live in an apartment or town home, you probably think you don't have enough space to grow vegetables. Lack of space is no longer an excuse since many modern vegetable varieties are perfect for growing in containers on a sunny window ledge or patio.

You can grow salad vegetables and herbs in almost any sunny spot and enjoy fresh ingredients all year round. Snipping off a sprig of fresh herbs from the window ledge garden in the kitchen while you are cooking cannot be bettered.

Here are some tips for the perfect container vegetable garden.

Choice of container. The easiest choice is to go to your local garden center or home improvement store and pick any gardening container that takes your fancy. There's a wide variety available in plastic, ceramic, wood or clay. Before you pull out your credit card though, take a look around your home and see whatever containers you have lying around. Almost anything that will hold soil can be used for growing, whether it is an old bucket, an empty margarine container or an empty coffee can.

Any container you use must have sufficient drainage holes in the bottom. Make additional holes in containers that do not drain quickly after watering. Waterlogged soil will lead to soil-borne diseases and stunted plants. Stand the containers in a tray if these are indoors.

Using regular soil is not advisable for container plants, since soil is likely to have plant disease organisms and weed seeds. Soil less potting mixes are lighter, less likely to compact and hold moisture and plant nutrients well. These potting mixes can be purchased from any garden center.

Choice of plants. Almost any herb is suitable for a container vegetable garden. Basil, thyme, mint, parsley, chives and oregano are all good choices. Most salads can also be grown in containers. Consider lettuce, young salad carrots, radishes, and green onions, for smaller containers. Tomatoes, eggplant and peppers do well in a larger container on a sunny patio or balcony. Choose dwarf varieties where these are available.

Seeds can either be planted either directly into the container or started in a smaller pot and transplanted once large enough to handle. Always plant more seeds than you need in each container since there will seldom be 100% germination. During the winter, seeds can be encouraged to grow early when placed next to a water heater or other warm (not hot) place. Make sure that you move these to a sunny position as soon as they appear above the soil.

Ideally, containers should be placed where they receive at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. Plants that bear fruit, such as tomatoes, peppers and eggplants require the most sun. Many herbs and leafy vegetables will tolerate more shade. Plants growing in containers require frequent watering especially if outdoors. During the hot summer months many will require daily watering.

Plants will need fertilizer during the growing season. The easiest way to add fertilizer is to use a commercial mix such as Miracle-Gro. Follow the directions and do not over feed. Most potting soils will have sufficient nutrients for the first few weeks.

Harvest when the plants are mature but still young and tender. Small sprigs of most herbs can be clipped as needed and the plant will continue to grow.

About the author: Vince Apps is the editor of a number of gardening sites including <a href=""http://manualofgardening.com"">Manual of Gardening</a> and <a href=""http://homevegetablegardeningonline.com"">Home Vegetable Gardening</a>.

How to Grow Snow Peas

Author: Linda Jenkinson

Article: Snow peas may have been named because in bright sunlight their light green pods look as if they might be tinged with frost. One of the oldest vegetables, the earliest recorded pea was grown in 9750 BC on the Thai-Burma border. Since snow peas are a favorite addition to Asian dishes, this pea might very well have been a snow pea ancestor.

In the large family of legumes, the snow pea (pisum sativum macrocarpon) is a flat-podded pea that bears both pods and seeds that are sweet and edible.

Snow peas aren't particular about soil quality, but they do need good drainage. Plant snow pea seeds about 2-inches apart and one to two inches deep. Snow peas grow best in full sun, but in an area where plants receive some shade from the midday sun as the season progresses.

Peas are a cool weather crop. Although snow peas adapt better to higher temperatures than regular peas, for best results you should sow seeds as soon as the soil can be worked. For best germination, keep soil moist yet be careful not to over water, since saturated soil will cause your seed to rot. In fact, the biggest problems you face in growing snow peas are root rot and powdery mildew, both of which begin in soil that is too wet. However, once seeds germinate, plants need to be watered regularly for optimum harvest.

Because they are legumes, there is no need to fertilize snow peas. In fact, legumes make their own fertilizer and are often grown as cover crops to replace lost nutrients to soil. However, snow peas, like most varieties of peas, are climbers and grow best with the support of a trellis, fencing, or beanpole.

When temperatures reach a steady 70 degrees, the rate of growth slows and plants begin to die. Harvest peas when pods are about three inches in length but still flat. You'll need to use your snow peas soon after harvest since they quickly lose their sugar content after they're picked.

About the author: Linda is an author of <a href=""http://www.gardening-guides.com/related-articles/how-to/rel ated-how-to.htm""> Gardening Tips Tricks and Howto's</a>&nbsp; of Gardening Guides and the<a href=""http://www.lawnmower-guide.com/product-pages/prod_lawn_care .htm""> Lawn Care</a> section of the Lawnmower Guide.

Linda writes and inspire you to try new ideas from her own experience.

Control Flea Beetles Organically

Author: Marilyn Pokorney

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Words: 449 Copyright: 2005 Marilyn Pokorney

Please leave the resource box intact with an active link, and send a courtesy copy of the publication in which the article appears to: marilynp@nctc.net --------------------------------------- Flea beetles are more of a nuisance than a threat to a healthy garden. But if found on seedlings they can kill the plants. On larger, well-established plants they do little harm. However, in corn and potatoes flea beetles can transmit serious diseases. Potato beetles may transmit early blight. Corn flea beetles can transmit a bacterium called Stewart's Wilt.

The adults are tiny ranging from 1/16 to 1/4 inch long and are various colors, including black, greenish or bluish black, green or yellow. They have enlarged hind legs which enable them to jump like fleas. The larvae are slender, white grubs which feed on roots, tubers, and lower stems underground.

Flea beetles overwinter as adults among debris in or near fields or host plants. At the end of the year remove plants and surface debris to remove hibernating material.

Eggs are deposited in soil near the bases of host plants and may require a week or more to hatch. Treating the soil with beneficial nematodes can help control the larvae.

Plant later than usual so warmer temperatures can help plants to outgrow the feeding beetles.

Use rotation planting. Don't plant the same crop in the same bed the next year.

Dusting plants with Diatomaceous earth, ashes, ground limestone, or even flour has been used successfully.

Homemade sticky traps work well. Flea beetles are attracted to the colors of white and yellow. For white traps cut milk jugs sides, other white plastic containers, or styrofoam meat trays into pieces about four to six inches square. Coat the pieces with something sticky. Petroleum jelly, lard, grease and non-setting glue have all been found useful. Wash off the captured beetles and reuse.

For a yellow trap take flypaper and attach it to something solid like a lightweight board that can be set upright or heavy cardboard attached to a wooden stake.

Some people have found beer traps successful.

For plants that don't need insect pollination, cover beds of seedlings with row covers or gauze-like material to prevent beetle entry.

Flea beetles like hot, dry soil. Misting or fine watering to keep the top soil moist helps as do mulches.

Plant beets, carrots, chard, radishes, spinach and other cool-loving crops a couple of weeks later. These also make effective trap crops to protect other plants.

Natural repellents consist of nicotinia, catnip, and wormwood. Make a tea and spray the affected crop. Another natural repellent is a garlic and hot pepper spray. Flea beetles hate this combination and will quickly leave. Reapply after watering or rain.

If all else fails, insecticides make from plants like Rotenone can be applied.

For more information on organic flea beetle and insect control:

http://www.apluswriting.net/garden/fleabeetle.htm

About the author: Marilyn Pokorney Freelance writer of science, nature, animals and the environment. Also loves crafts, gardening, and reading. Website: http://www.apluswriting.net