Why Grass Seed Mixtures Are The Way to Go

Author: Jon Weaver

Article: The gardener without years of experience will do well to consider planting a mixture of grasses rather than a solid turf of a single species. If he knows exactly what he is doing, and understands how to control the diseases which might attack his particular single species of grass, the chances are it will survive and thrive without serious injury.

But the beginner rarely has the necessary skill and knowledge for this, and, even when he does, he often runs into unforeseen trouble. If conditions change¡ªsuch as an extremely wet or dry year¡ªa solid turf of one species may suffer severely, whereas one containing several grasses will pull through in good shape.

Disease is a good example of the type of problem a mixture may help avoid. The fungi which attack grasses are quite specific in their action. That is, some will attack fescues but not bluegrasses, while others attack bents but not fescues. Except for rust, which is largely airborne, most of these turf diseases are spread by contact from one blade to another.

If the turf is made up of more than one species, this plant- to-plant contact is broken. I have seen one section of a lawn, seeded wholly to Common Kentucky Bluegrass, go down by late June when attacked by helminthosporium leaf spot, while another part of the same lawn¡ªplanted with Chewing's Fescue and Highland Bent in addition to the bluegrass¡ªshowed only an occasional area affected by the leaf spot. Both areas were maintained exactly the same.

Another advantage of mixtures is that they tend to adjust themselves to the varying soil conditions often found within a lawn, and also to differences in sun and shade. It is not uncommon for the same lawn to have one area that receives three hours of sun?shine while a short distance away it has sun all day long.

One of the very real problems a seedsman has, for example, is in recommending a grass to the man who doesn't know what a sunny lawn is. I have actually studied lawns which the owner claimed received sun ""all day long"" and found they had four hours or less.

This is often true in cities, where the line of parkway trees and the house form barriers that cut off the sun until late in the morning and then block it again early in the afternoon.

By doing just a little research, which often amounts to asking a representative at your local nursury or home supply store, you will find the perfect mixture of grass seed for your needs and avoid many troublesome and time-consuming problems.

About the author: FREE information on how to have the yard of your green dreams, visit All About Your Lawn today! It's FREE! Click here: http://www.AllAboutYourLawn.com

Blue Flowers Add Style and Color to any Garden

Author: David Chandler

Article: Blue flowers are some of the most striking plants around and can add a rich splash of color to any garden. Plant them in a cluster of all blue or mix them in with other flowers for a rainbow of color.

When planting flowers, it is important to remember to follow the instructions on the tag for the plant. Always buy plants that will thrive in the conditions in which you intend to grow them. A plant that loves sun will not do well in a shady area and you will only be disappointed with the results.

When planning your garden, be aware of the bloom time of the flowers. Planting perennials with different bloom times near each other will insure a garden that has blooms all season long. Remember also to plan for the height of the plants, putting the taller ones in the back.

Consider the flowers on the list below for your garden.

Polemonuim aka Blue Pearl - A compact plant with deep sky blue flowers that grows to 10"". It blooms in late spring to early summer. Plant in partial shade and in well drained soil.

Blue Sea Holly - This dramatic plant has a lavender blue cone like flower with long spiked petals. It grows to 30"" and is a favorite for dried flower arrangements. Plant in full sun - blooms in mid to late summer.

Delphinium aka Butterfly Blue - Bright blue delicate flowers adorn a plant that blooms in early to mid summer. It reaches 10"" tall and prefers a sunny location with rich moist soil.

Campanula aka Blue Carpet - Bright blue to lilac colored flowers bloom for weeks in the middle of summer. This low growing perennial grows to 4"" and prefers full sun with well-drained soil.

Penstemon aka Blue Buckle - This plant has tubular shaped blooms in blue to purple and flowers in mid summer to early fall. It grows to 15"" and likes well-drained soil with full or partial sun.

Hydrangea aka Nikko Blue - Gigantic clumps of blue flowers adorn this shrub for most of the summer. In the fall, the flowers turn a golden color. This plant is a new variety that prefers rich soil but will grow in shade, partial sun, or full sun.

Vinca - Medium blue flowers and glossy green leaves form a carpet that grows to about 6"" tall and blooms in mid spring. This plant will grow in most soil conditions, in the shade or sun.

Ajuga aka Bronze Beauty - This short bushy plant has spikes of blue flowers that grows quickly. Great as a ground cover or in raised beds. It blooms in spring and prefers a shady area.

Scabiosa aka Butterfly Blue - A bushy perennial with lavender blue flowers that bloom from June to October. This plant likes full sun and attracts butterflies and hummingbirds.

Verbena aka Babylon Blue - Blue purple flowers petals adorn a plant that blooms in early spring. Great for window boxes and planters.

For more information about planning your garden, visit http://www.springgardenflowerguide.com and http://www.gardencenterinfoguide.com

About the author: David Chandler For your FREE Stock Market Trading Mini Course: ""What The Wall Street Hot Shots Won't Tell You!"" go to: http://www.stockmarketgenie.com

Fertilizing to Create More Blossoms on Your Flowers, Flowering Shrubs and Trees

Author: Michael J. McGroarty

Article:   You are welcome to use this article on your website or in your newsletter as long as you reprint it as is, including the contact information at the end. Website URLs must be active links. You are welcome to use this article with an affiliate link, http://www.freeplants.com/resellers.htm

The secret to making your flowering trees, shrubs, annuals, and perennials bloom more is in the numbers. All fertilizers have analysis numbers on the package. These numbers represent the percentage of each chemical the fertilizer contains.  

For example, 12-12-12 is a typical garden fertilizer that would contain 12% nitrogen, 12% phosphorous, and 12% potassium. The quick explanation is; nitrogen produces vegetative, or top growth, phosphorous produces flower buds, fruit, and root development, while potassium builds strong healthy plants.

  Most lawn grasses are vigorous growers and therefore require significantly more nitrogen than the other plants in your yard. A lawn fertilizer would have an analysis of 26-3-3, indicating a fertilizer high in nitrogen. You would not want to use a fertilizer containing such a high percentage of nitrogen on landscape plants because it would be very easy to burn them. You must also keep in mind that many lawn fertilizers contain broadleaf weed killers, and most ornamental plants have broad leaves. The fertilizer doesn't know the difference, and it will damage or kill ornamental trees and shrubs.

  During the summer months the growth rate of most plants slows down, and when plants are not actively growing, they need very little nitrogen. Although not vigorously putting on new growth, many plants such as Dogwood Trees, Rhododendrons, and Azaleas are quietly working to produce flower buds for next year. Annual and perennial flowers are also busy making new flower buds.

  To encourage flower bud production you can apply a fertilizer that contains a small percentage of nitrogen, a higher percentage of phosphorous, and a little potassium. I recently purchased a liquid fertilizer with an analysis of 5-30-5, ideal for flower production. Because the product is sold as a bloom producer, the manufacture also added a little chelated iron, manganese, and zinc, all good for your plants as well.

  Most garden centers and discount stores carry similar products. I chose a liquid fertilizer because liquid fertilizers are absorbed both through the roots and systemically through the foliage, so they work quicker. I used a sprayer that attaches to the end of the garden hose to apply the fertilizer, but do not use the same hose end sprayer that you use for lawn fertilizers. There could be residual weed killer still in the sprayer.

  About those hose end sprayers. I purchased one that is supposed to automatically mix the proper ratio for you. I used it to apply a general insecticide, and it worked, but it sure seemed like I went through a lot more insecticide than I needed. When I used it for the fertilizer the screen on the little pick up hose inside the jar kept getting clogged with the tiny solids in the fertilizer. I recommend using a solution of one part liquid fertilizer to one part water in the sprayer jar, and applying at a heavier rate.

  Watch the liquid in the sprayer jar, and if it isn't going down remove the lid and clean the little screen by spraying it with water from the garden hose. Read the application instructions on the container to determine how much fertilizer to apply, and how often. A fertilizer high in phosphorous will increase flower production. You will see a difference. 

Remember the golden rule of applying fertilizers. ""Not enough is always better than too much.""

Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up for his excellent gardening newsletter.  Article provided by http://gardening-articles.com

About the author: Michael J. McGroarty has more than 30 years experience in the landscape gardening/nursery industry. He's spent the better part of his life on his hands and knees in the dirt working with plants and his hands-on experience allows Mike to write in a manner than many gardeners find to be helpful and beneficial.