Why Grow Organic?

Author: Frann Leach

Article: You may feel that growing your own produce is difficult enough, without adding to the problems by growing them organically. Well, you pays your money and you takes your choice, as they say, but for me, there are several reasons for going the whole hog:

<ul> <li>Firstly, you don't have to worry about handling all sorts of noxious chemicals, wearing special gear to use it, and all that <li>Secondly, in my opinion (your mileage may vary here), organically produced vegetables taste better <li>Thirdly, it's not really that much more work, the methods are different, but no more difficult <li>Fourthly, organic vegetables are better for you <li>And finally, why go to all that effort to produce a substitute for cheap factory-produced food? Much better to go for the good stuff! </ul>

<H2>Eat more fruit and veg for health</H2>

The British Government is always telling us to eat more healthily. They say everybody should consume a minimum of <B>five</B> portions of fruit and vegetables every day.

But how many chemicals are there in that much conventionally farmed produce?

Organic fruit and veg may be hard to find at a decent price. And if you do find a supplier, often the organic produce that is on offer is not very attractive. It may be better for you — but it looks horrible, not at all appetising.

So what's the solution?

<H2>A shock, and a realisation</H2>

Around about 1992, I had two young children, aged 2 and 4 years. I was trying to give them a healthy diet, and they <B>loved</B> carrots. Every day they would grab at least one carrot each from the vegetable rack, sometimes more. I was pleased. ""They're getting good fibre, vitamins, stuff for their eyesight, and the chewing is good for their teeth,"" I thought.

Hah.

I was watching the news one day, when a very strange item came on (like something out of a science fiction story, I thought at the time). The Government was issuing a Health Warning on... <B>carrots!!!</B> Apparently, because of a rise in some pest or other (I know now it was carrot fly), farmers had been using huge amounts of pesticide chemicals, so much so, that the carrots produced contained dangerous amounts. The advice was to peel them before use.

To say I was surprised by this announcement would be an understatement — stunned more like, not to say angry. My kids were being subjected to high levels of chemicals, not just from carrots, but presumably from all sorts of other supposedly 'healthy' food. And there was no way to tell: you certainly couldn't distinguish a carrot full of pesticides from one that wasn't, just by looking at it.

I also realised something else: carrots are a root vegetable. And if a root is surrounded by something, it takes it in and absorbs it, like a sponge. So <B>peeling</B> a carrot wasn't going to do much good, if the problem was an excessive level of chemicals.

I was living in an area with no organic retail outlets. The only supermarket was K**kS*ve. I had no transport. The only solution was to grow my own. So that is what I did — with no previous experience of gardening (apart from my cactus collection). If you've got a good enough reason, you can do anything.

That was 12 years ago now, and I haven't looked back. Not only have I grown lots of really nice food (much tastier than the shop-bought stuff), but I've had fun doing it, too.

So, if you have any experience of gardening, or none, visit the <a href=""http://www.gardenzone.info"">GardenZone</a> and I will show you how to get started. Exactly what to do, in English, not garden jargon (you will get to know what the terms mean, but to start with they are too confusing).

About the author: Frann lives in Edinburgh, Scotland. She has her own internet marketing business and is always on the lookout to recruit go-getters like herself. Find out more: <a href=""http://www.gardenzone.info"">here</a>

Watering Your Orchids

Author: Bob Roy

Article: <b>Watering Your Orchids</b>

Once you get the hang of it you will be a pro at watering. Most orchid plants are epiphytes (air plants) and we are used to watering plants in soil. Air plants have pseudo pods which take up the water and hold it for the plants to drink. The root system looks dry but may not be. If there is enough water you will notice the roots have plumb looking parts which are the pseudo pods.

<b>Here are some guidelines that you can use for watering</b>: <table>

<tr> <td><b>water more often if</b></td> <td><b>water less often if</b></td> </tr> <tr> <td>there is more light</td> <td>the is less lights</td> </tr> <tr> <td>temperatures are higher</td> <td>temperatures are lower</td> </tr> <tr> <td>humidity is lower</td> <td>humidity is lower</td> </tr> <tr> <td>there is more air movement</td> <td>less air movement</td> </tr> <tr> <td>plant has thin leaves and growth</td> <td>plant has thick leaves and growth</td> </tr> <tr> <td>it is mounted on a slab or in a basket</td> <td>it is in a pot</td> </tr> </table>

<b>Over watering</b> is the most common mistake of beginners. The plant shows water which may e covering the root system. If this occurs it means the roots are not getting the oxygen it needs and may go on to die. You will also notice some of the leaves may be turning yellow and drop off (also a sign of under watering). The pseudo pods will have furrows which run the length of them. The leaves will become thinner, won't fully expand and will wilt.

<b>Under watering</b> is usually the case if the plant is in a direct sun for long periods of time. Some of us will only mist the plant instead of watering. The signs of under watering are essentially the same as over watering. The thinner leaves of the plants especially Miltonias will have accordion like leaves.

The treatment for over watering is to re pot as soon as possible. As re potting is taking place cut off the roots that do not look healthy. Re pot in a coarser medium. This will allow the plant to get the support it needs. Be sure that the plant dries out before being watered next.

Occasionally you plant may not have any viable roots and may not respond to re potting. If this is the case then I would recommend that you place the plant and container in a clear plastic bag and loosely tie it and place it in indirect light. The humidity will help.

Occasionally with over watering you will notice that the roots and then the rest of the plant may turn black. This is ""black root"" disease. Use a fungicide on this and probably you can save it.

For under watering the main stay of treatment is to water more frequently. If the plant feels loose in the pot then re pot it. Once you do this you will notice that there will be less wilting and greener healthier leaves. If there is still some wilting the plant will need more humidity. This can be accomplished by placing the plant on a tray that has pebbles in it and is half full of water. Remember you do not want the roots to sit in water.

About the author: Owner and President of several websites, orchids-plus-more.com and physician-on-health.com. A physician by training and website entrepreneur by avocation.

10 Tips for Successful Rose Planting

Author: Kathy Burns-Millyard

Article: Planting roses isn't actually complicated, as long as you have some good advice and tips to start with...

1. Check with your local gardening center or florist for the best type of roses to grow in you climate. If you are a novice, you should look fo? disease resistant types of roses because they require a lot less maintenance.

2. When planting roses, you want to pick a spot that is well lit in the morning. You also want an area that is sunlit for at least 6 hours a day. Roses need a great deal of light if they are to grow properly. If you live in a really hot climate though, you'll probably get the best results by not planting your roses in direct sunlight.

3. Pick an area that has plenty of well drained soil. Great soil has a PH level where the amount of acid in the soil is at about 5.5-7.0. You can get a testing kit for your soil at any garden center.

4. Organic matter like manure or lime helps to nourish the roots of your roses. You should soak the roots in water or puddle clay for many minutes, and cut off any root's ends that are broken.

5. The first 3-4 weeks after planting your roses, you should water them often. Usually this is when the top 2 inches of soil is dry. Roses need a lot of hydration and food to remain healthy.

6. Four weeks after planting, you should start soaking the bed every 2 weeks or so. You should do this in the morning for the best results.

7. Begin fertilization approximately 3 months after planting. Use 3-6 inches of mulch to control the moisture, temperature, and to stops weeds from coming up. Mulch also helps to lock in the vital nutrients your roses need in order to remain healthy.

8. Planting in the Spring is the best.

9. You want to plant your roses in an area that is well circulated with air. Your roses will not grow in an enclosed or tight area.

10. Dig a hole that is two times bigger than the amount of space that your roses take up. It makes it easier to plant them and creates a spaced area for them to grow with freedom. Poor circulation for your roses can cause fungal diseases. Using a larger hole also makes it easier for you to pull them up later and pot them if you'd like.

&copy; 2004, Kathy Burns-Millyard and Garden-Source.com

About the author: This article is provided courtesy of <a href=""http://www.Garden-Source.com"">http://www.Garden-Source.com< /a> - You may freely reprint this article on your website or in your newsletter provided this courtesy notice and the author name and URL remain intact.