A Tough Non-Native Shrub - The Burning Bush

Author: Bill Hirst

Article: Burning Bush (Euonymus alatus)

A deciduous shrub from the Staff-Tree Family (Celastraceae)

Burning Bush, a non-native species from China and Korea, has escaped from the ornamental plantings into urban and rural areas. It travels by way of its seed. This plant is found in forests and brushy areas. This vase-shaped shrub has great red fall foliage, which glows for weeks in early to mid-autumn. Burning Bushes can be sheared into hedges or globes in landscape plantings. Hedges from burning bushes can be very dense giving good screening even in the winter. If left unpruned, the compact form of Burning Bush will grow to about 12 feet tall and 15 feet wide, and the winged form will grow to about 15 feet tall and 20 feet wide. In our area it propagates naturally in shaded areas. We obtain some of our stock from seedlings we gather from a small farm cemetery on our property. It even regrows after transplanting from the empty holes where roots are exposed. Burning Bush is adaptable to a variety of soil conditions. Fertile to sterile, organic to clay, acidic to alkaline, rocky to sandy this plant proves its strenght. It does not like wet soils, but does well in dry soils. Its small fiberous roots are near the surface and responds well to root pruning. Balling and burlapping this shrub does little damage for the plant can take abuse and recover quickly. If you have a brown thumb, then this plant is for you. You can see more of Bill's planting tips and articles at http://www.seedlingsrus.com or http://www.zone5trees.com

About the author: Bill has been raising trees and plants on his 250 acre farm in Doylestown Pa. 25 miles north of Philadelphia for the past 30 years. His web sites are http://www.seedlingsrus.com and http://www.zone5trees.com

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Garden Leaf Blower Maintenance

Author: Leonard Mutch

Article: To keep your <b>leaf blower</b> in tip top condition and to maximise the life and reliability of your leaf blower, it is vital to service it regularly. Here are a some guidelines and tips that will help you maintain your leaf blower in good working order.

<b>Daily Checks on your Leaf Blower</b>

* Clean the external surface of the machine with a cloth.

* Make sure that the throttle lock and the throttle trigger function safely.

* Ensure that the stop switch is working properly.

* Check the housings, and make sure they are free of cracks.

* Make sure that the collection bag is intact and that the zipper is working.

* Make sure that all nuts and screws are tightened properly .

* Give the filter a good clean and replace it if necessary.

<b>Weekly Checks on your Leaf Blower</b>

* Check that the starter device, the starter cord and the tensioning spring are all still in good condition.

* Ensure that the air intake at the starter device is in good condition. Remove any debris or dirt from it, make sure it's not clogged.

* Give the outside of the spark plug a good clean, and unscrew it and check the electrode gap. Re-adjust this gap to (0.020"") 0.5 mm, if required, or change the spark plug.

* Make sure that none of the anti-vibration mountings are broken or damaged.

* Clean or change the muffler's spark arrest screen (not on mufflers with a catalytic converter).

* Give the fan blades on the flywheel a good clean.

* Clean the carburetor space.

* Give the air filter a good clean or replace it if necessary.

<b>Monthly Checks on your Leaf Blower</b>

* Flush through the fuel tank with clean gasoline. Remember to dispose of this safely!

* Give the outside of the carburetor and the space around it a good clean.

* Do the same for the fan blades on the flywheel and the space around it.

* Check the fuel line and filter, and replace them, if required.

* Check that all the cables and their connections are in good condition.

* Change the spark plug.

* Examine and clean the muffler's spark arrest screen if required (only mufflers with a catalytic converter).

About the author: Leonard Mutch is a keen gardener and author. You can read more of his tips and articles at <a href=""http://www.gardenleafblower.com/article_list.html"">Garden Leaf Blower Buyer Guide</a>

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Euonymus Alatus

Author: Bill Hirst

Article: Burning Bush (Euonymus alatus)

A deciduous shrub from the Staff-Tree Family (Celastraceae)

Burning Bush, a non-native species from China and Korea, has escaped from the ornamental plantings into urban and rural areas. It travels by way of its seed. This plant is found in forests and brushy areas. This vase-shaped shrub has great red fall foliage, which glows for weeks in early to mid-autumn. Burning Bushes can be sheared into hedges or globes in landscape plantings. Hedges from burning bushes can be very dense giving good screening even in the winter. If left unpruned, the compact form of Burning Bush will grow to about 12 feet tall and 15 feet wide, and the winged form will grow to about 15 feet tall and 20 feet wide. In our area it propagates naturally in shaded areas. We obtain some of our stock from seedlings we gather from a small farm cemetery on our property. It even regrows after transplanting from the empty holes where roots are exposed. Burning Bush is adaptable to a variety of soil conditions. Fertile to sterile, organic to clay, acidic to alkaline, rocky to sandy this plant proves its strenght. It does not like wet soils, but does well in dry soils. Its small fiberous roots are near the surface and responds well to root pruning. Balling and burlapping this shrub does little damage for the plant can take abuse and recover quickly. If you have a brown thumb, then this plant is for you. You can see more of Bill's planting tips and articles at http://www.seedlingsrus.com or http://www.zone5trees.com

About the author: Bill has been raising trees and plants on his 250 acre farm in Doylestown Pa. 25 miles north of Philadelphia for the past 30 years. His web sites are http://www.seedlingsrus.com and http://www.zone5trees.com

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Garden Composting Tips- The Art of Composting

Author: Carlo Morelli

Article: Even a composting neophyte can create top-notch compost. Akin to cooking, composting is half art, and half science. Awareness of these basic factors will help you getting started. Just like a chef demands high quality ingredients, successful composting needs the best ingredients too. Good materials for composting include these: grass clippings, leaves, plant stalks, hedge trimmings, old potting soil, twigs, vegetable scraps, coffee filters, and tea bags. Bad composting materials include: diseased plants, weeds with seed heads, invasive weeds, pet feces, dead animals, bread and grains, meat or fish parts, dairy products, grease, cooking oil, or oily foods.

To prepare compost, you need organic materials, microorganisms, air, water, and a small quantity of nitrogen. Organic material is what you are trying to decompose (see above for Do's and Don'ts). Microorganisms are tiny forms of plant and animal life, which break down organic material. A small amount of garden soil or manure supplies adequate microorganisms. The air, nitrogen, and water offer an encouraging environment for the microorganisms to produce your compost. You can add enough nitrogen to the compost with small amount of nitrogen fertilizer., which can be purchased at hardware stores or nurseries. Air is the one ingredient which you can't have too much of. Too much nitrogen can kill microbes; too much water causes insufficient air in the pile.

If microorganisms have more surface area to feed off of, the materials will decompose faster. Chopping your organic materials with a machete, or using a shredder or lawnmower to shred materials will help them break down faster.

The compost pile is your oven. Compost piles catch heat created by the activity of millions of microorganisms. The minimum size for hot, fast composting is a 3-foot by 3-foot by 3-foot. But piles wider or taller than 5 feet don't permit enough air to reach the microorganisms at the center.

Your compost pile's microorganisms work their hardest when the materials have about the moistness of a wrung-out sponge and as many air passages. The air in the pile is usually consumed faster than the moisture, so the pile should be turned or mixed up now and then to add more air; this maintains high temperatures and controls odor. Use a pitchfork, rake, or other garden tool can to turn materials with.

About the author: Carlo Morelli is a writer at OnlineTips.org, where you can read about <a href=""http://www.onlinetips.org/rose-soil-composition"">the best soil composition for roses</a>, <a href=""http://www.onlinetips.org/wrought-iron-balusters"">wrought iron balusters</a> and other home and garden tips.

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Landscaping Ideas: Creating A Backyard Wetland

Author: Carlo Morelli

Article: A miniature wetland on your property can offer similar benefits that natural wetlands offer. A mini-wetland can even help replace the valuable natural functions of wetlands that may have been lost during your area's development.

What is a wetland? Simply any area in which water covers the soil or keeps it saturated at least two or three weeks out of the growing season. They are commonly found wherever water collects at a rate faster than it drains away. Some are swamped year-round while others only hold water for short-lived periods each spring. The majority of wetlands are underwater less than a month during the summer. Wetlands with grasses, cattails, and similar vegetation are referred to as marshes, and wooded wetlands, with shrubs and trees, are called swamps.

Who wants a swamp in their backyard, you ask? Well, a wetland in your yard will store, filter, and clean runoff water temporarily from your roof and lawn. It will supply a home for some fascinating friends; from butterflies and bees to salamanders, toads, frogs, and birds.

How long soil is wet establishes which wetland plants will grow best. Plants like cattails, bulrushes, jewelweed, and the lovely cardinal flower do best with alternating wet and dry periods, and survive flooding as long as most of the leaves are out of the water. Water lilies and pond plants grow well in a permanently flooded pond. Most wetland plants do not require standing water to grow successfully, and will survive even in an area that appears dry during most of the growing season.

Starting a wetland in your yard could be as easy as planting wetland plants in an existing wet spot or drainage area, or may require the effort needed to install a pond. You can create a wetland in any level area and make it suitable for most wetland plants by digging a wide, shallow hole, lining it with plastic, refilling it with soil, and adding water.

Here are a few tips to get you started:

1. The sides should slope down gradually to the deepest area.

2. An irregular shaped wetlaand will look the most natural. Long curving wetlands will fit nicely into an existing landscape plan.

3. Line the hole with sheet plastic. Use heavy objects such as round stones to hold the sheeting in place.

4. If you're in an area that has a high annual rainfall, puncture the liner in several places with pen-sized holes halfway up the sides to supply drainage. This will let keep the soil from staying completely waterlogged for long periods.

5. Covering the edges of the plastic liner with soil will hide them and also hold it in place.

About the author: Carlo Morelli is a contributor to OnlineTips.org, where you can read tips about <a href=""http://onlinetips.org/landcaping-drought"">landscaping during times of drought</a> and <a href=""http://onlinetips.org/landscape-xeriscape"">xeriscape landscaping</a>.

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How to choose your garden furniture and make it last

Author: Angus Charlton

Article: Garden furniture is now a fashion item as the patio and garden increasingly become an additional functional space to the home.

Before you buy any garden furniture it is strongly recommended that you do some research. Doing so will greatly increase your chances of buying garden furniture that is right for you and will last you a long time. Following are some important tips you need to consider before you buy.

Firstly decide whether you want stackable or foldaway furniture that will be put away in the shed or garage in winter or if you want permanent solid garden furniture that remains in situ all year round. If you want your garden furniture to be a permanent part of your garden for esthetic reasons then it is recommended that you go for heavy furniture made from hardwood, aluminum or wrought iron with rust proofing. It is well worth spending the money on the heavier more durable materials as this will be much more cost effective in the long run.

Choosing the right type of material and construction is paramount. Decide what kind of material for your garden furniture would best compliment your patio or garden. Select a material that will stay in balance with your garden.

Wood is the best all round as it is lightweight, esthetically pleasing and comfortable but requires some maintenance. Choose a tropical hardwood which is high in natural oil content like teak, iroko or courbaril. These woods are weather resistant and can be left outside throughout the year.

Make sure that mortice and tenon joints are used for your teak garden furniture and not bolts which corrode. If any metal fittings are used in the construction make sure they are made from brass, stainless steel or aluminum which are corrosion resistant. Make sure the construction is only premium grade teak for our garden furniture, so any knots, cracks and other defects are eliminated before the timber is used to build the furniture. Additionally, Make sure your teak garden furniture is kiln dried to optimise moisture content and ensure shape is maintained and cracks are eliminated.

Teak garden furniture that is assembled using epoxy based glues tend to have the best performance and durability of all the types of joints as the epoxy resin used will not be affected by rain or frost.

If your teak garden furniture becomes dirty it is easy to clean with warm soapy water and a scrubbing brush which will enable you to restore the beautiful silver grey weathered look. If required a pressure hose can be used at 60-80 bar [900-1200psi] at a distance of no less than 30cm.

Once your teak garden furniture has weathered the colour will be enhanced by an annual scrub.

A small amount of bleach added to the water will suppress any algae growth.

Any stains and grease spots can be immediately removed by washing down using a light detergent then rinsing off with clean water as soon as they occur .However, this is not essential as nature will take its course over time.

In dry weather small cracks will appear in the end of the grain timbers. This is natural and no action needs to be taken as when the moisture in the atmosphere increases the timber will return to its original condition.

It is not necessary to use teak oil or varnish as these will not extend the life of your garden furniture and are purely cosmetic. However if you wish to preserve the as new appearance of your teak garden furniture the application of teak oil when the furniture is new will give a more lustre finish than leaving untouched. Please ensure you follow the manufacturer's instructions as usually this is a three stage process. Make sure the timber is completely dry when you apply the teak oil, otherwise the furniture will blacken.

Wrought iron garden furniture generally looks the best as it is usually hand crafted to give a unique look. The disadvantages of wrought iron furniture is that it is not as comfortable as wood and heavier to move around. Additionally, iron rusts so wrought iron garden furniture has to be especially coated to prevent it from rusting so make sure the supplier gives you at least a one year warranty against rust.

Finally, if you can, it is recommended that you invest in a cover for your garden furniture. Covers now come in all shapes and sizes and are well worth the money as they add years to the life of your garden furniture. Simply place the cover on your garden furniture every evening or when it rains, you will see the benefits in the long term.

About the author: Angus Charlton is managing director of Arboreta, an online store offering <a href=""http://www.arboreta.co.uk"">garden furniture</a>. He is a keen gardener who has developed a garden furniture business that resources from sustainable rainforests and contribute to the art of Feng Shui for gardens.

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Spring Flowers from bulbs for the Lazy Gardener

Author: Pet Campbell

Spring Flowers from bulbs for the Lazy Gardener

I am not going to pretend that I am a Master Gardener, or the end of all wisdom with regard to spring bulbs in Florida. I will share my experiences with bulbs that I have planted in Florida that were successes or failures here at Pet's gardens. One of the things I missed in Florida was spring flowers, and I heard from everyone, you can't grow them here. Well here is the thing!

You can. Here I was a dedicated...Sort of gardener missing the beauty and fragrance of spring flowers! Being told no, well I decided to investigate and if necessary loose a few dollars in the lesson. Garden bed preparation is not my specialty; I don't map out a garden. I plant. This means I am a lazy sod. And really I dig holes and drop bulbs in. I do not measure I guess.

I do not carefully prepare my flower beds; I do not add a million pounds of this or that. Nope I just don't. This is really ok my flowers don't seem to mind in the least. My garden beds are nothing fancy, no magic formulas no expensive additions. I am a simple gardener. Plant it, feed it, water it, mulch it weed it. I have neither the time nor inclination to do more. Remember I am the lazy gardener, and I hate to sweat!

However I love flowers, I am really not particular, I do have some favorites but I am careful not to show it. Roses and hibiscus are fêted as the tropical queens, here at Pet's gardens but luckily the rest of the flowers have not picked that up!

I don't know how many times I have heard that you can't have spring daffodils, and tulips, or hyacinths in Florida... Nonsense! You surely can if you remember and utilize a few simple guidelines,

1. Daffodils like should be planted after the beginning of November, if you plant to early The ground will be much to warm, if you wait, the ground will have cooled enough that they won't sprout and then die off, this is a very expensive and frustrating experience. So learn from my mistake and wait. Last fall as an experiment I refrigerated 200 daffodil bulbs and then planted them in December. They did not come up, although I had carefully for a change followed the directions given by the grower. At the same time I planted 500 daffodils (assorted) that were a mistake! From Amazon I had actually ordered 250 bulbs, and for some reason Amazon duplicated my order. So I ended up with 500 bulbs. What can you do? Return them? Heck no, it was like a stroke of fortune as far as I was concerned and I so did not do the happy gardener dance where my hubby could see it! But I did plant them and waited checking anxiously until I saw the crisp green tips emerge from the ground. The first daffodils bloomed on Feb. 1-2005.
I had daffodils blooming until June 2005.

2. It is a fact of life in Florida that tulips will be annuals, so just deal with it.Honestly because we don't get the hard ground freezes necessary for tulips, we have to choose whether to spend the money, enjoy their short bloom period, or purchase alternate flowers. I am fond of tulips, but since these bulbs were to be a array of color to brighten that bleak period between winter and summer I chose to plant hyacinths instead they at least have a shot at coming back.

3. Hyacinths are rumored to be perennial in Fl. Under the right, so far never specified conditions. All I know is that I put 100 hyacinth bulbs in the front border of my main perennial garden, and by golly I had 100 blooms! I do not think that there is any smell that can compare to hyacinths, it is simply heavenly. I will report next year if they return.

4. Do not cut the foliage off after your flowers have finished blooming, yep its going to be kind of ugly for a couple of weeks, but don't complain you had vases of gorgeous flowers to brighten and scent your house, that non of your neighbors had! Spring bulbs don't need our help, they are on their own timetable, and they know somehow when it's right to start growing. And I will add that while pacing and watching does nothing to speed the growth cycle it is good for your legs and hips! I am working on lilies right now so you can watch for that article coming soon. Feel free to drop me a note at pet@petsgardenphotography.com

About the author:
Pet, is a gardener , photographer, and best of all ..she is the find a shortcut and use type gardener.

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Choosing roses for your landscape

Author: Tony Robinson

Article: Roses have long been a favorite among all types of gardeners, and roses continue to enjoy great popularity today. In addition to their beauty as cut flowers and in bouquets, roses are among the most useful and attractive flowers to grace the landscape of any home.

As a matter of fact, the exterior of any home can be made more graceful and more inviting through the use of wonderful landscape roses. Choosing the right ones, and ensuring that they compliment the overall style of the home, is very important to the overall success of the landscape.

Fortunately, the number of ornamental landscape roses make finding them an easy task. The difficulty consists of choosing the right ones from this variety. There are a number of classes of roses whose characteristics make them great for use as landscape ornamentals. For instance, the gardener who wants to grow roses up and over an archway or a trellis may want to use tall growing tea roses. Tea roses are renowned for their nodding blooms, therefore all who pass under the arch would be treated to the beautiful sight of roses in full bloom.

To accent a wall or other permanent structure, a true climbing rose is often the best choice. True climbing roses can be trained to many different effects, including climbing up the length of the structure, or accenting the tops and sides of a wall or building.

The Polyantha or modern day Floribunda rose is a great choice for gardeners looking for a vibrant splash of color for the background. These popular varieties of roses have large sprays of blooms, and they are popular choices for providing color in the landscape.

If roses are to be planted in front of other plants in the landscape, miniature or low growing China roses are a perfect choice. Roses can even be used as hedges, with modern Shrub roses and Rugosa roses being excellent choices.

Of course, as with any aspect of gardening, color is an important consideration. After all, every gardener's goal is a garden full of colorful, vibrant and healthy plants. Fortunately, roses come in so many shapes, sizes, textures and colors that there truly is a rose for every gardener.

The goal of choosing the best color roses for the landscape should be to compliment the color of the surrounding landscape. For instance, a spray of plain white tea roses can be striking against a dark red brick home, or an arrangement of pink roses can be the perfect compliment to a stone or marble entranceway. With so many colors of roses to choose from, it should be easy to find colors that compliment and enhance any decorating scheme.

One popular trend in the world of landscaping is to use a variety of different plants and flowers in the landscape. Whereas single species landscaping was in vogue a few years ago, most of today's gardeners like to use a mix of different colors, species and styles of plants. Doing so not only makes for a vibrant garden, but it is thought to enhance the health of the soil as well.

Fortunately, roses lend themselves well to this mixture, and roses can be a beautiful part of an overall landscape of plants and flowers. In addition, there are roses suitable for a variety of climates. Choosing the best rose varieties for your specific climate should mean fewer pesticides, few disease issues and an overall healthier garden.

About the author: Tony Robinson is an international author and webmaster. In his busy life he finds time to ""Smell the Roses"". For geat tips, techniques and articles visit http://www.rose-bloom.com

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Mower Maintenance for a Perfect Lawn

Author: David Chandler

Article: Growing and maintaining a lush green lawn takes care and the right equipment. The right lawn mover for your landscape and proper maintenance of your equipment will ensure a nice even lawn. A good lawn mower should cut the grass and not tear or rip it out.

The first thing to consider when purchasing a lawn mover is your landscape. Is your lawn on a slope or flat ground? What type of mower can get the job done with the least amount of effort? Another factor is how easy the mower is to maintain for peak performance.

If you have to cut grass on a slope, the best type of lawn mower is one with high wheels. This will make it easier to push up a hill, or to move back down the hill with. The second type of lawn mower is a cordless or electric mulching lawn mower. The mulching mower is less messy and mulches your lawn. The third type of lawn mower is a reel lawn mower. Reel lawnmowers are environmental friendly, not contributing to pollution and are easy to use.

After deciding on the type of lawn mower to purchase, review the maintenance schedule. A good maintenance program will allow your mower to last for years to come and give your grass a better cut. Every spring, the different parts of the lawnmower should be cleaned or repaired. Spark plugs should be cleaned or replaced for good firing and nuts and bolts should be checked and tightened where necessary.

The underside decking should be cleaned throughout the season to remove build up of grass and dirt. Cleaning the grass and dirt will also help in preventing the spread of diseases in grass. In order to clean the deck of the lawnmower, you should first empty the gas tank and make sure that the spark plug is not connected. You can then stand the mower up on its side and spray the mower with water. You can then scrub off the rest of the dirt and grass that is stuck on the mower. Make sure to dry the mower after you have finished rinsing it off, to make sure that none of the parts rust.

Your maintenance should also include checking the oil and air filters. The air filters should be cleaned or replaced on a regular basis. Before removing the filter to replace, make sure that you know whether it is paper or foam. The oil in your lawn mower lubricates the engine. Be sure you read the operating instructions on the type and amount of oil your mower uses.

Another important part of maintenance is sharpening the blades every one or two months, depending on use. Sharp blades ensure a clean cut rather than ripping out the grass. This can be easily done by removing the blade from the mower and sharpening it with a file.

When mowing season is over, there are certain steps to properly store your lawn mower for the winter. It is advisable to remove the oil and gas, and clean the exterior.

With consistent and proper care of your lawnmower, you will be able to keep your lawn looking great through the seasons and years, and your mower will last for years too.

For more information about lawn mowers and your lawn, visit http://www.lawnmowersinfoguide.com and http://www.lawninfocenter.com

About the author: David Chandler For your FREE Stock Market Trading Mini Course: ""What The Wall Street Hot Shots Won't Tell You!"" go to: http://www.stockmarketgenie.com

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Hydroponics Gardening - How to Grow Flowers and Vegetables with Minimal Time and Effort

Author: Stephen Provis
Article: Did you know that you can still grow your own beautiful flowers and vegetables, without having to spend many hours every week looking after your garden?
One of the biggest problems many gardeners face is never having enough time to maintain their garden. There's always weeds to remove, insects and other pests to take care of, and steps to take to prevent plants becoming diseased. Even watering the garden each day can be very time consuming, unless there's an automatic sprinkler system in place.
If you want a garden but only have limited time to look after it, hydroponics is a great option. Hydroponics gardening has many time-saving advantages over conventional gardening methods.
Some of these advantages are:
1. No weeding required.
With hydroponics gardening, the plants are grown in a solution of nutrients dissolved in water instead of soil. You don't have to worry about weeds sprouting amongst your plants, because soil isn't used.
2. Fewer problems with pests and diseases.
When growing hydroponically, you have less of the typical problems with pests such as slugs, snails and caterpillars attacking your plants.
Although the nutrient solution of your hydroponic garden will have to be changed regularly, this only takes a fraction of the time compared to conventional gardening maintenance - eg. greenhouse gardening, where soil has to be replaced between crops to prevent disease.
3. You don't need to spend time watering your plants.
Plants grown in a hydroponic garden have an unlimited supply of water. You never need to be concerned that your plants are getting too much or too little water.
4. Say goodbye to digging your garden.
Preparation of a conventional garden involves loosening the soil to add oxygen for the plant's roots to extract. Once again, as soil isn't used with hydroponics, this means one less time consuming job for you to do.
Plants grown hydroponically extract oxygen from the nutrient solution via their roots. The oxygen can quite quickly be used up, so it's important that it's replaced. The way it's replaced depends on which system is used. The most common hydroponic system is the passive system, which uses an aquarium bubbler to put oxygen back into the solution.
Plants can be grown rapidly without all the concerns of regular gardening. Although a hydroponics system can take some time to set up, you'll find it's well worth the effort.
For more information on hydroponics and the advantages over regular gardening go to http://www.about-hydroponics.info/information-on-hydroponics.html
About the author: Stephen Provis has an interest in plants and home gardening, and is owner of http://www.ultimate-hydroponics.info
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