Control Flea Beetles Organically

Author: Marilyn Pokorney

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Please leave the resource box intact with an active link, and send a courtesy copy of the publication in which the article appears to: marilynp@nctc.net --------------------------------------- Flea beetles are more of a nuisance than a threat to a healthy garden. But if found on seedlings they can kill the plants. On larger, well-established plants they do little harm. However, in corn and potatoes flea beetles can transmit serious diseases. Potato beetles may transmit early blight. Corn flea beetles can transmit a bacterium called Stewart's Wilt.

The adults are tiny ranging from 1/16 to 1/4 inch long and are various colors, including black, greenish or bluish black, green or yellow. They have enlarged hind legs which enable them to jump like fleas. The larvae are slender, white grubs which feed on roots, tubers, and lower stems underground.

Flea beetles overwinter as adults among debris in or near fields or host plants. At the end of the year remove plants and surface debris to remove hibernating material.

Eggs are deposited in soil near the bases of host plants and may require a week or more to hatch. Treating the soil with beneficial nematodes can help control the larvae.

Plant later than usual so warmer temperatures can help plants to outgrow the feeding beetles.

Use rotation planting. Don't plant the same crop in the same bed the next year.

Dusting plants with Diatomaceous earth, ashes, ground limestone, or even flour has been used successfully.

Homemade sticky traps work well. Flea beetles are attracted to the colors of white and yellow. For white traps cut milk jugs sides, other white plastic containers, or styrofoam meat trays into pieces about four to six inches square. Coat the pieces with something sticky. Petroleum jelly, lard, grease and non-setting glue have all been found useful. Wash off the captured beetles and reuse.

For a yellow trap take flypaper and attach it to something solid like a lightweight board that can be set upright or heavy cardboard attached to a wooden stake.

Some people have found beer traps successful.

For plants that don't need insect pollination, cover beds of seedlings with row covers or gauze-like material to prevent beetle entry.

Flea beetles like hot, dry soil. Misting or fine watering to keep the top soil moist helps as do mulches.

Plant beets, carrots, chard, radishes, spinach and other cool-loving crops a couple of weeks later. These also make effective trap crops to protect other plants.

Natural repellents consist of nicotinia, catnip, and wormwood. Make a tea and spray the affected crop. Another natural repellent is a garlic and hot pepper spray. Flea beetles hate this combination and will quickly leave. Reapply after watering or rain.

If all else fails, insecticides make from plants like Rotenone can be applied.

For more information on organic flea beetle and insect control:

http://www.apluswriting.net/garden/fleabeetle.htm

About the author: Marilyn Pokorney Freelance writer of science, nature, animals and the environment. Also loves crafts, gardening, and reading. Website: http://www.apluswriting.net

How to choose an outdoor fireplace for your backyard

Author: Nicole Martins

Article: Making fires outdoors is not just a primordial instinct. Homeowners have the campfire bug and it just seems to keep growing. With the trend towards creating outdoor living spaces and spending more time outside relaxing or entertaining friends, garden accessories such as an outdoor hearth make the backyard experience that much more enjoyable. However, it is important before you shop around for an outdoor fireplace that you check with your local city hall or firehouse to learn about all necessary codes and restrictions.

While choosing between the many different outdoor fireplace options may at first seem daunting, there are ways to help make your decision easier. For example, it is good to know that an outdoor hearth can serve not only as a center piece where people enjoy surrounding the fire, but it also has a functional role such as providing a source of outdoor heating when in close enough proximity of the fire’s radiating heat. This is true of both gas and wood burning fires. In addition, features such as an attachable grill grate cooking surface makes it possible to cook outside, another added benefit. Here are some ideas to help you decide what works best for your space.

The easiest to maintain outdoor fireplace

Gas modeled outdoor hearths and fire pits are an excellent choice where a clean burning fire is desired. With gas, either natural or propane, burning more cleanly than wood, you will not have to deal with smoke, sparks, cleaning up ashes or gathering wood logs. Another benefit: you can create an instant fire with the click of a button and enjoy a faux wood fire any time of year. This is very appealing to many folks, especially where convenience and low maintenance pits and hearths are valued. Some gas outdoor fire pits fueled by propane gas are designed for portability. In fact, there are fire pit models that include rear tires and pull handles so that you can move the pit to the destination of your choice including a summer cabin.

The permanent outdoor fireplace

By far the most permanent outside hearth is the cast iron chiminea. This is an excellent outdoor fireplace choice when a sturdy year round outdoor fireplace presence is desired, such as permanent architecture around the patio or pool area. However, as with metals in general, other than aluminum, iron is prone to rusting over its lifetime but maintaining with special paint from time to time and covering with a chiminea cover will help. Another choice for permanence includes the cast aluminum chiminea. While not nearly as heavy as cast iron, these outdoor fireplaces will definitely add a sense of year round presence, if desired. One thing to note, metal can get dangerously hot when the fire’s burning. It’s best to supervise young children when the fireplace is in use. You can also use your chiminea for grilling and the outdoor fire as a source of heating. (visit http://www.outdoor-fireplaces-and-patio-heaters.com/chiminea.htm)

The designer and focal point outdoor fireplace If you desire a fireplace that looks like an outdoor art work or furniture when not in use, consider fire pits made from copper or the slick contemporary look of steel. Copper fire pits are very popular. If you prefer the lustrous shine of new copper you can maintain this effect with the right products. Some copper pits include an area to store wood logs beneath them which is very attractive as well. Another option, but certainly more expensive, are some of the fine furniture looking gas fireplaces such as the Luminarium. You can choose between several different finish options and some of these pieces look as if they belong inside the home.

The easy to transport outdoor fireplace

To make it more accessible for people to take their outdoor fireplace with them: camping, the beach, summer cabin, tail gate parties and so on many outdoor fireplace models, especially fire pits, are designed to be lightweight. They include features such as lids and tires for convenient transport. Another reason to purchase a portable fireplace is that if you prefer to store the unit during winter. You will have no problem tucking a unit such as this inside your home. The good news is that you will find many lightweight outdoor pits and fireplaces available. Portable outdoor fireplaces may also include features such as gas or wood burning options, grill attachments, spark screens, lids, wheels and can come in many different materials: copper, steel and aluminum.

About the author: Nicole Martins is a contributing author and publisher to http://www.outdoor-fireplaces-and-patio-heaters.com, an online resource that provides you with information, articles of interest and reviews of the best outdoor fireplace and patio heaters online.

Planting Guide For Roses

Author: JT

Article: The art of planting roses doesn’t have to be a complicated thing to do. When you have the right knowledge there is no limit to how beautiful a garden or rosebush that you can create.

In this guide, you will not only have all of the right skills at your fingertips, but you will get 101 tips that you can use to grow your very own bed of roses. With this extensive manual at hand, you will never have to buy another bouquet again. Now you will have all of the beauty and delicious fragrance that roses can give you with you all the time.

Planting Guide for Roses

Check with your local gardening center or florist for the best type of roses to grow in you climate. If you are a novice, you should look for disease resistant types of roses because they require a lot less maintenance.

When planting roses, you want to pick a spot that is well lit in the morning. You also want an area that is sunlit for at least 6 hours a day. Roses need a great deal of light if they are to grow properly.

Pick an area that has plenty of well drained soil. Great soil has a PH level where the amount of acid in the soil is at about 5.5-7.0. You can get a testing kit for your soil at any garden center.

Organic matter like manure or lime helps to nourish the roots of your roses. You should soak the roots in water or puddle clay for many minutes, and cut off the root’s ends that are broken.

The first 3-4 weeks after planting your roses, you should water them often. Usually this is when the top 2 inches of soil is dry. Roses need a lot of hydration and food to remain healthy. Four weeks after planting, you should start soaking the bed every 2 weeks or so. You should do this in the morning for the best results.

Begin fertilization approximately 3 months after planting. Use 3-6 inches of mulch to control the moisture, temperature, and to stops weeds from coming up. Mulch also helps to lock in the vital nutrients your roses need in order to remain healthy. Planting in the Spring is the best.

You want to plant your roses in an area that is well circulated with air. Your roses will not grow in an enclosed or tight area. Dig a hole that is two times bigger than the amount of space that your roses take up. It makes it easier to plant them and creates a spaced area for them to grow with freedom. Poor circulation for your roses can cause fungal diseases. Using a larger hole also makes it easier for you to pull them up later and pot them if you’d like.

About the author: To find many more articles on roses, and other plants and flowers, head over to http://www.gardenarticles.com where we have all a gardener could want!

Lawn Mower Accessories

Author: Andrew Caxton

Article: You can find lawn mower accessories in different sizes and shapes. Most of these accessories are additions to the usual mower rider. Usually, lawnmowers comes without any safety supplement for the operator. They must be bought by the customer. A good example is the canopy that will protect the operator from the sun. These gardening additions use to be quite expensive, because they actually need to be attached to the mower’s deck or push bar. In order to secure them it might require any extra mower’s modification, increasing then the price of the supplement itself.

The engine and deck are basically the most important parts of a lawn mower. Keep in mind that your machine won’t work at all without either of these parts. From the engine and deck on, you can modify as many parts as you want to make your mower working smoother and more efficiently. You can attach, modify or replace as many parts or accessories as you require. Most of these accessories can be bought at your local store or usual provider. You can feel a big difference on you mower once you have replaced a piece or attached a new accessory. Your lawnmower will reward you with a substantial better performance as well as you will enjoy like you never though mowing the lawn.

There are many accessories out there to improve a lawn mower. Most of them are just improvements of the standard or current parts. As an example on what homeowners use to do is to replace the tires, and the lawnmower will become extremely stable while turns on any direction. On the other hand, if you already have a riding lawn mower, you can replace your current seat, if you haven’t done it yet. Standard riding lawn mower seats are not comfortable enough to spend long rides. Therefore, what operators use to do is to replace the standard seat by another, much more comfortable.

In general, mower accessories can be obtained at affordable prices. All in all, if you want simply to replace a damaged or broken part of your current machine, a similar component won’t be too expensive to afford. Higher prices will come when you want to improve you mower by adding new features or accessories. Typical additions are chain trippers, soil aerators, water rollers or seed spreaders amongst others.

Often, a part replacement or just to attach a new add-on shouldn’t be too difficult. They use to come with a step-by-step instructions manual for the installation. Modifications might be more difficult when a mower body or deck is involved in. If not, you don’t have to worry about. Most lawnmowers accessories are separate items that just need to get hooked to the back of the mower. Some of them need to be powered by the motion of the wheels and suit with most mower models.

http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com

About the author: Andrew Caxton's gardening website carries reviews regarding <a href=""http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com/artificial-t urf.html"">artificial turf</a>, <a href=""http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com/lawn-mower-p arts.html"">lawn mower parts</a> as well as <a href=""http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com/lawn-mower-b lades.html"">how to sharpen lawnmower blades</a>.

Grow Organic Vegetables

Author: Vince Apps

Article: There are more reasons than ever why anybody with access to a few square feet of the outdoors should grow their own organic vegetables.

You may be shocked at how much of the produce at your local supermarket has been genetically modified. Some estimates now put this at over 50%. While there is no strong evidence that genetically modified foods are immediately harmful to your health, there are no long term studies either. Do you want to take that risk?

Let’s take a look at pesticides and fertilizers. Farmers no longer use crop rotation or natural manures to improve soil fertility, so they are forced to use ever increasing amounts of chemicals to improve yields and multiple pesticides to protect the weakened plants. Pesticides penetrate deeply into the leaves of plants and pestiside residues remain even after you have scrubbed them.

To quote from The Environmental Protection Agency – “Pesticides are designed to kill pests. Many pesticides can also pose risks to people. The health effects of pesticides depend on the type of pesticide. Some, such as the organophosphates and carbamates, affect the nervous system. Others may irritate the skin or eyes. Some pesticides may be carcinogens. Others may affect the hormone or endocrine system in the body.”

Sure you can, and should, buy organic fruit and vegetables but have you seen the prices? Anybody with even a modest vegetable garden can grow healthy organic vegetables at much lower cost than those at the local supermarket. Not only can you grow them at much lower cost, but you can grow them one hundred percent better.

Even the long-keeping vegetables such as potatoes, onions and squash are noticeably tastier picked straight from the home vegetable garden; but when it comes to peas and corn and salad vegetables- well , there is absolutely nothing to compare with the home garden ones, gathered fresh, in the early slanting sunlight, still gemmed with dew, still crisp and tender and juicy, ready to carry every atom of savory quality and taste, without loss, to the dining table. It is not in price or health alone that home gardening pays. There is another point. Agribusiness has to grow the things that give the biggest yield. They have to sacrifice quality and taste for quantity and long shelf life. You do not. The strawberries on the supermarket shelves may look bright and red and uniform but you will soon find they taste more like the cardboard of their containers when compared to a home grown variety picked straight from the vine.

And this brings us to what may be the most important reason you should garden. It is the cheapest, healthiest pleasure there is. Give me a sunny garden patch in the springtime, give me seeds to watch as they find the light, plants to tend as they take hold in the fine, loose, rich soil, give me succulent and tasty springtime salads. And when you have grown tired of the springtime, come back in summer to even the smallest garden, and you will find in it, every day, a new vista, new pleasures and, yes, new challenges.

Better food, better health, better living -- all these the home vegetable garden offers you in abundance. So, turn off that computer, pull out some old clothes and find a spot to dig.

About the author: Vince Apps <a href=""http://manualofgardening.com"">http://manualofgardening.com< /a>

Liles for the garden

Author: Tony Robinson

Article: Liles are one of the most striking and beautiful plants in the garden, and most gardeners will work with these beautiful plants at least once or twice in their lives. Lilies can add beauty and drama to any garden, and they are very popular flowers for indoor display as well. Lilies are popular in many contexts, from giving a beautiful contrast to a winter rock garden, to providing a beautiful accent to surrounding shrubs and trees.

No matter how the lily is displayed, and whether it is enjoyed indoors or out, there are some important things to know about these wonderful plants. This article focuses on some of the most frequently asked questions about choosing, planting, caring for and enjoying lilies.

When should I plant my lilies? The best time to plant lilies is in either the spring or fall of the year. Regardless of the time of year, however, it is important to get the bulbs in the ground as soon as possible after purchasing them. Unlike many other types of bulbs, lily bulbs do not store well.

What is the difference between a daylily and a garden lily? The plant known to gardeners as the garden lily is grown from a bulb, but the plant known as the daylily actually grows from a corm. In addition, the daylily contains many leaves that grow from the corm, but the garden lily contains only one shoot that contains leaves. That shoot grows directly from the bulb.

How deep should lily bulbs be planted? The general rule of thumb for many types of bulbs, including lily bulbs, is to plant them three times as deep as the bulbs are wide. For instance, a two inch wide lily bulb would be planted to a depth of six inches In addition, lilies should be planted in groups for the best effect when they bloom. It is a good idea to dig a hole to the proper depth, then plant several bulbs together in that hole.

How do I propagate lilies? Garden lilies are best propagated through breaking off a few of their scales in the spring or fall and planting them approximately one inch deep. Daylilies can be propagated by dividing the corms and planting them. In addition, some lilies will produce bulbils, which may appear to be black or dark green seeds. These bulbils are found at the point at which the lily leaf meets the stem. Even though these bulbils are not really seeds, they can be planted, and they will emerge within two or three years of planting.

Should I cut back my lily after it has finished blooming? After the lily has bloomed, it is best to remove only the stem itself. That is because garden lilies will continue to feed off their foliage, and lilies that are left to die off naturally tend to grow better the next year. On the other hand, daylilies usually bloom for longer periods of time. The blooming season of daylilies can be extended if the gardener deadheads the blooms and cuts back the stems. After the blooming season is over, the foliage on the daylily should be allowed to die back naturally.

Can Easter lilies be planted outside? Many people are interested in planting their Easter lilies outside, and it is fine to attempt that. The main problem with Easter lilies is that they do not bloom naturally at Easter time. Easter lilies are actually forced to bloom at that time of year by the florist. This forced blooming can make it harder for the lily to grow properly once it is transplanted.

If you plan to transplant your Easter lily after you have enjoyed it outside, the following steps will help increase your chances of its survival. &#61692; Plant the lily in a sunny spot using well drained soil &#61692; Use a good, high quality planting mix &#61692; Plant the bulbs three inches under the surface of the soil and also place an additional three inches of soil on the top &#61692; Allow enough space for the lily to spread its roots &#61692; Water the newly transplanted lily thoroughly

About the author: Tony Robinson is an international author and webmaster. In his busy life he finds time to ""Smell the Roses"". For geat tips, techniques and articles visit http://www.rose-bloom.com

Improve Your Home's Landscape in 6 Easy Steps

Author: Tom Ridgeway

Article: Think that improving the look of your home and garden requires too much time and money? It doesn’t have to. Here are 6 easy ways to spruce up the appearance of your home. These solutions won’t cost a fortune and won’t take long to complete, but it will look like they did!

STEP 1: CREATE AN OASIS FOR BIRDS

Create a great focal point in the front or backyard while providing a haven for birds. This is one of simplest and least expensive ways to fashion a great yard accent. An elegant birdbath can be placed in any corner of the yard, ideally under a small to medium size tree. Select a matching bird feeder to hang from the tree to complement the birdbath. Plant a small patch of annuals or perennials around the base of the birdbath to complete the design and voilà! It’s an instant focal point for your landscape and a gathering place for your favorite song birds - all in a matter of minutes.

STEP 2: GARDEN WITH YOUR KIDS

Gardening doesn’t have to be a chore -- turn it into a fun weekend event for you and your children. Planting a garden in the spring is a great activity for your kids, and their excitement will grow along with the garden they helped you plant. Add a garden plaque with your children’s names personally engraved to your herb garden and flower plantings. The plaques will identify the children’s special garden plot and will give them a special sense of connection with the garden. Garden plaques are inexpensive and come with attached stakes for quick installation in the ground. They’re a beautiful and easy way to highlight your flowers or garden.

STEP 3: QUICK AND EASY CURB APPEAL

Want to add some curb appeal to the front of your home? Here are some inexpensive and visually appealing ideas. Dress up that old mailbox with a beautifully designed mailbox sign – it can even be personalized with your name and address. Take the project a step further and install a color garden weathervane near your mailbox with a matching ornament. In no time, you’ve added a great visual accent to the front yard and created instant curb appeal.

STEP 4: ELIMINATE THE TANGLED GARDEN HOSE

Everyone has battled the tangled mess of the garden hose at some time. End the tangles this summer with a decorative hose holder. The holder will keep the hose neatly coiled while providing another decorative accent to enhance the look of your home.

STEP 5: REPLACE YOUR SPIGOT

The spigot is another opportunity to add to the character of your home. By changing your spigots you can make a significant change to the look of your home and garden. With such a wide variety of shapes to choose from, there’s no reason not to replace those tarnished old spigots with new brass ones. Have your children pick a faucet ornament that depicts their favorite pet, animal, bird or other theme and place a different spigot on each outdoor faucet (the kids will love this!). It’s a simple change that will upgrade the look of your home.

STEP 6: ENHANCE YOUR HOME’S ENTRYWAY

Create a beautiful accent for the entry of your home with an address plaque. The address plaque can be personalized with your name and address in a classic and elegant manner. Or, add a welcome mat with a design that reflects your style. Welcome mats can also be personalized with your name. Address plaques and welcome mats are easy and quick ways to accent the entry to your home.

Follow these 6 steps today and make the most of your home and garden. A few simple touches can take your home’s look and character from ordinary to outstanding!

GA-001

About the author: Tom Ridgeway is the President of <a href=""http://www.houseandgardenaccents.com/"">House and Garden Accents</a>, an online retailer of unique exterior décor accessories. House and Garden Accents is dedicated to providing products that enhance the beauty and charm of customers’ homes. Visit their website today to find a variety of finely crafted products at affordable prices, including all of the products mentioned above.

The Ivy League

Author: Jason Canon

Article: Parthenocissus tricuspidata is commonly known as Boston Ivy, Cottage Ivy, or Japanese Ivy. It covers the exterior walls of a number of prestigious northeastern universities and is probably responsible for the term “Ivy League.” Boston Ivy is a deciduous, self-clinging vine with large (to 4-8 inches) glossy leaves. The color of the leaves changes with the season starting with light green in spring, dark green in summer, and peach to scarlet crimson in fall.

The Boston Ivy vine has tendrils that have 5 to 8 branches, each of which ends with an adhesive-like tip. It secretes calcium carbonate, which serves as an adhesive and gives it the ability to attach itself to a wall without requiring any additional support. It can be easy to confuse this plant with evergreen English Ivy, which clings much tighter to a surface. Boston Ivy will grow along the ground but the vine loves to climb the brick or stone walls of buildings. A north or east wall works the best. It can get spread 30-60 feet and is one of the fastest growing vines. Other than buildings, it will also climb tree trunks, arbors, trellises or retaining walls. In addition to growing it on walls you can use Boston Ivy for screening or camouflage. It is a tough vine that tolerates urban settings, is salt tolerant, and easily handles most conditions including shade and drought. This fast-growing vine is hardy from USDA Zones 4 to 10 but does best in climates with cool summer nights.

Boston Ivy flowers are small, green, and difficult to locate. They develop into blue-black berries on red stalks, which become apparent after the leaves fall. Birds typically consume the berries before winter arrives. The foliage of Boston Ivy looks similar to maple leaves, especially when it turns deep red in autumn. It is usually pest-free but Japanese beetles can damage leaves in the sunshine. This ivy makes an excellent backdrop for summer flowers, especially reds, yellows, oranges, and whites.

©2005 Peach ePublishing, LLC

http://www.vanursery.com; jmc@vanursery.com

About the author: Jason Canon has authored numerous technical research papers including: photonic switching, gigabit networking, VoIP E9-1-1, and others.

Bird Feeder Basics

Author: Louise Desmarteau

Article: Bird Feeders The fastest way to a bird's heart is definitely through their stomach. Put up a backyard bird feeder and birds will certainly come to feed in your yard. Where you live determines what you'll see because of differences in birds' range and habitat preferences. As words spread about your feeder, the kinds of birds and the size of crowd will increase. Even if you live in the city where it seems pigeons and house sparrows are the only birds on earth, you'll get surprise visitors that find your food or stop in on migration.

Bird Feeder Basics When you shop for bird feeders, you'll find your choices are almost limitless. You may wonder how to decide what to buy. Here are some hints.

Ease of use - The most important factor in choosing a feeder is how easy it is to use - for both the owner and the birds. You want a feeder that's easy to fill and that holds a reasonable amount of seed. If you are just getting started, look for a feeder that displays seed in full view because birds are attracted by the sight of food and by the sight of other birds eating. An open tray is great for starters.

Make sure your bird feeder has plenty of room for birds to eat without protrusions or decorations getting in the way. Birds also like a feeder with a raised ledge or perch that they can grasp while eating.

Size - When birds come to a bird feeder, they want food, and they wait it fast. Choose a main tray feeder that's big enough for at least a dozen birds to eat at once. Supplement that with hopper- and tube-type bird feeders. Domed feeders are great for small birds like chickadees. Feeders inside wire cages give small birds a place to eat and peace without competition from starlings or other larger birds. Once you have one or two large bird feeder you can add as many smaller feeders as you like.

Quality - Make sure your bird feeder is well made. A sturdy, simple, but beautiful feeder costs more than you'd think. Expect to pay $30 - $75 for a feeder that will last for years.

<a href=""http://www.birdshopper.com/xcart/catalog/Platform-Feeders-p -1-c-30.html"">Tray (Platform) Feeders</a> A must have for any backyard is a simple wooden tray feeder. It's big, it's easy to fill, and it accommodates several birds. The other feeders pick up the overflow and they can be stocked with treats. Cardinals, finches, jays, grosbeaks, bluebirds, blackbirds, nuthatches, chickadees, titmice, and buntings all prefer an open tray feeder. The only birds reluctant to us a tray feeder mounted on a post are ground-feeding birds. A very low tray on stumped legs will accommodate these birds, which include native sparrows, quail, towhees, and doves. You can put any kind of seed in a tray except for small Niger, lettuce, and grass seeds, which are prone to blow away or get wasted. Platform feeders are also good places to put out doughnuts, bread crumbs and fruit.

Platform feeders with a roof are often called fly-through feeders. One problem with tray feeders is that plenty of seed gets kicked to the ground. Adding raised edges to a platform feeder transforms it into tray feeder.

Tray feeders can be hung. A popular hanging model, the Droll Yankees X-l Seed saver is protected by a dome to keep seed dry and prevent squirrels from raiding. This feeder works especially well as a mealworm feeder.

<a href=""http://www.birdshopper.com/xcart/catalog/Arundale-Mandarin- Bird-Feeder-with-Dividers-and-New-Arch-Ports-p-15.html"">Hopper Feeders</a> Hopper-style bird feeders with plastic or glass enclosures that dole out seed as they're needed, are an efficient choice because seed is used as needed and large amounts aren't exposed to wet or snowy weather, or kicked out by scratching birds. Many birds, including chickadees, nuthatches, titmice, cardinals, jays, and woodpeckers, eat eagerly at a hopper feeder. Make sure the tray of a hopper-style bird feeder has enough room for more than two or three birds to gather and eat, and check to see if the feeder will be easy to clean if seed spoils in bad weather. Be especially careful if you mount your hopper feeder permanently in the garden. If the hopper or frame blocks the tray, the feeder may be very hard to clean.

Hopper feeders are not always rectangular. They can be many-sided or tubular, resembling a gazebo, lantern, or silo, and may be called by those names. A popular round hopper design is the Sky Cafe by Arundale, a hanging feeder made entirely of clear polycarbonate. The hopper and feeding platform are protected by a large, steeply sloped hood designed to detour squirrels. The idea of a large dome above a feeder to protect it from squirrels is incorporated in a number of feeder designs, including Droll Yankees' Big Top.

One of the most significant innovations in hopper feeders has been the ""squirrel-proof"" models created by Heritage Farms, such as The Absolute II. Birds must sit on a rail to reach the seed tray. The rail has a counterweight that can be adjusted so that a squirrel's weight or that of a jay or blackbird will cause the shield to lower in front of the tray.

<a href=""http://www.birdshopper.com/xcart/catalog/Artline-Large-Delu xe-Wire-Mesh-Bird-Feeder-p-676.html"">Wire-Mesh Feeders</a> Perfect for holding shelled peanuts wire-mesh feeders are fun to watch. Blue jays, woodpeckers, and chickadees can cling to the mesh and pick seeds out one at a time. Squirrels can pick seeds too, but one seed at a time can be painfully slow. Wire-mesh feeders work equally well dispensing black oil sunflower seeds and most other larger seeds. Small, round millet grains pour through the openings and are not a good choice for these feeders.

Most commercial wire-mesh feeders are tubular, but some are shaped like hoppers and may be attached to a platform where birds can perch to feed, rather than having to cling to the mesh.

Mesh bags, often called thistle socks, are also available for dispensing Niger seed. Refillable socks made of fabric and disposable ones made of plastic are available. Squirrels or rain can quickly ruin thistle socks, so hang them in a protected place.

<a href=""http://www.birdshopper.com/xcart/catalog/Window-Feeders-p-1 -c-28.html"">Window Feeders</a> Years ago, before the fancy screens and storm windows, many people simply scattered a handful of crumbs or seeds for the birds on their windowsills. You can mount a simple shallow tray feeder on the outside of a window, mounting it like a window box (but higher and closer to the pane). You can use wooden or metal brackets that attach below the sill or on the sill. Perfect for kids and indoor cats - many window feeders attach with suction cups. Typically made of clear plastic, models by Aspects, Duncraft and K-Feeders are among those available.

The most popular window feeders are made by the Birding Company. A one-way mirror allows the feeding activity to be observed while keeping the birds from being disturbed. The feeders need to be placed in a sunny spot for the one-way mirror to work. The feeder can be cleaned and food replaced from inside the house.

<a href=""http://www.birdshopper.com/xcart/catalog/Aspects-Jumbo-Brus hed-Nickel-Tube-Bird-Feeder-p-70.html"">Tube Feeders</a> Simple tube feeders are a perfect example of form matching function. They're self-contained, so seed stays dry; they hold a good quantity of seed, so they don't need refilling too often; and they can accommodate several birds at one time. Not all tube feeders are created equal though. You should invest a few extra dollars in the more expensive feeders such as Duncraft or Droll Yankees. The tube itself is sturdier, the feeding holes are designed better so there's less spillage or feeds as birds eat, and the heavier metal used on top and bottom makes the feeder much more stable. Being heavier they don't swing as easily in the wind scattering seed on the ground.

Tube feeders are welcomed by goldfinches, purple finches, pine siskins, chickadees, and house finches, who seem to know they can eat in peace there without being disturbed by the bigger birds. The size of the hole (port) determines whether you have a feeder that should be filled with Niger, birdseed mix or sunflower seeds.

There are two styles of tube feeders. One is designed with small feeding ports for the tiny Niger seeds; the other has larger ports for such seeds as black oil sunflower, safflower, or mixed seed.

Not all tube feeders are cylinders. There are tube feeders with three, four, or more sides. It is the idea of feeding ports built into the elongated seed container that makes a feeder a tube feeder.

The <a href=""http://www.birdshopper.com/xcart/catalog/Droll-Yankees-8-Mi ni-Tubular-Bird-Feeder-p-152.html"">Droll Yankees A6 Tube Feeder</a> is still a top seller. Droll Yankee feeders have a lifetime guarantee. Other variations include Perky Pet's Upside-Down Thistle Feeder. Perches are placed above the feeding ports so that seed can be accessed only by finches that can feed upside down, a design that excludes house finches.

Two or three tubes are sometimes ganged together, as the Opus TopFlight Triple Tube Feeder. With a total of 12 ports, it can feed more birds than a single tube, and it also has the option of being filled with a different seed type in each tube.

Most tube feeders are made of transparent plastic, but Vari-Craft makes particularly attractive tube feeders of white PVC. Ports are made of a hard plastic. A squirrel-proof model is available with stainless steel ports.

Most tube feeders can be fitted with round trays underneath that catch spillage from birds like finches, which are notoriously messy eaters. The tray serves double duty as a small platform feeder for such birds as cardinals and doves, which benefit from the slung seed.

Tube feeders are sometimes placed inside a wire-mesh cage for protection from squirrels. Cages also keep large birds like grackles from perching on a tray and reaching up to the feeder ports.

<a href=""http://www.birdshopper.com/xcart/catalog/Hummingbird-Feeder s-p-1-c-8.html"">Nectar Feeders</a> Sweet sugar water, or nectar, is a huge draw for hummingbirds. Put up a nectar feeder and you're practically guaranteed to get hummers. The birds search for red and deep orange-red flowers, andanything that color will bring them in for a closer look. Your nectar feeder may also attract other birds with a sweet tooth, including orioles, house finches, and woodpeckers. In the wild these birds would satisfy that craving with real nectar from flowers, or a sip of sugary tree sap or fruit juice. The sugar boost gives them quick calories and the energy needed to live.

As with other bird feeders, look for a nectar feeder that's easy to fill and easy to clean. Make sure you can remove the base to clean out the feeding holes. Bee guards of gridded plastic over the feeder openings are a necessity unless you like to watch constant battles between wasps and hummingbirds.

<a href=""http://www.birdshopper.com/xcart/catalog/Suet-Feeders-p-1-c -26.html"">Suet Feeders</a> Suet feeders are not nearly as complex as some seed feeders. They can be as simple as a mesh sack - the kind often used for onions and potatoes. Toss a chunk of raw suet in an empty mesh sack and hang it on a tree trunk or from a branch or pole.

A popular way of presenting suet is in homemade suet logs. Perches are not necessary and if used will attract grackles and starlings. Woodpeckers and small clinging birds can get a grip on the rough wood. Stuffed with suet, these logs have woodpeckers as regular visitors. Standing dead trees can be drilled and filled like giant suet logs. If meant to attract woodpeckers, a suet feeder is likely to be found most quickly if it is attached initially to a tree trunk. Once the woodpeckers have found it, the feeder can be moved to other spots and the birds will follow.

Suet cages are sometimes combined with bird feeders. Health Manufacturing makes a beautiful redwood hopper feeder with suet cages at either end, the Classic Suet 'n Seed Feeder. Woodlink makes a similar model with a copper roof.

About the author: Louise Desmarteau is the Owner of <a href=""http://www.birdshopper.com"">BirdShopper.com</a>, an online e-tailer offering the highest quality wild bird feeders and birdhouses on the market today. BirdShopper's staff is very knowledgeable and can assist you with any questions you might have in selecting the product(s) that are right for you. Visit <a href=""http://www.birdshopper.com"">BirdShopper</a> today.

How To Plant And Care For Geraniums

Author: Lee Dobbins

Article: Geraniums have long been a popular plant for both outdoor and indoor use. The common geranium can be grown in beds or containers and will do well in either. The ivy leafed geranium is a natural for hanging planters. The Regal or Martha Washington geranium does not do well outside and should be indoors.

<b>Growing Geraniums In Beds</b>

To plant geraniums outdoors, you must wait until all threat of frost has passed. Pick a spot that is sheltered from strong winds and gets at least 6 hours of sun a day. The soil should be well drained and mildly acidic (pH of 6.5 is ideal). Geraniums need fertilization for best growth and they thrive in beds that have a good supply of nitrogen. Before planting, apply a 5-10-5 fertilizer to the soil. After planting, you should fertilize every month with a 10-10-10 fertilizer. Mulch the area and water at least once a week.

<b>Growing In Planters Outdoors</b>

Geraniums can be grown in planters on the porch, patio or garden. The ivy type geraniums are great for hanging baskets and window boxes. Make sure you use a container that is big enough for the plant or it will wilt (you may need to replant to prevent wilting as the plant grows). Use a soil that has enough aeration – either a commercial made mix or garden soil mixed with peat moss or perlite. Make sure you water it frequently but do not let it sit in water.

<b>Growing Indoors</b> The Martha Washington geraniums are not suited for outdoor growing but can be beautiful indoor plants. Put our plant in a sunny window for best flowering. Plant in a well drained soil and use a fertilizer formulated for indoor plants. Fertilize monthly when plant is flowering but cut back to every two months in the fall and winter. Your geranium will do best if the day time temps are around 65 degrees with night temperature around 55.

<b>Disease</b>

Geraniums are hardy, but like any plant can be susceptible to disease. Some common disease are <b>Black Leg</b> where the stem becomes blackened and the leaves fall off, <b>Leaf Spot</b> where leaves become spotted and drop off, <b>Gray Mold</b> where the plant has gray moldy spots, <b>Rust</b> where the plant gets rusty looking spots and leaves turn yellow and drop off, <b>Root Knot nematodes</b> -swelled roots and stunted growth and <b>Dropsy</b> which produces lesions on the plants.

To combat most disease, remove all leaves that are infected, make sure you do not take cuttings from any plant with disease. When watering make sure you do not splash the leaves.

<b>Pests</b>

Some common geranium pests include:

<b>Caterpillars</b> - some caterpillars like to much on geraniums (perhaps they have heard of it’s medicinal properties?). These can be controlled with sprays.

<b>Aphids</b> - try controlling aphids with ladybugs or a special spray.

<b>Whitefly</b> - usually starts in the greenhouse but can spread to the garden on infested plants. Small white flys and black sooty goop can be seen on the leaves which will fall off after turning yellow. Can be controlled with sprays.

<b>Mites</b> - Causes leaves to curl and drop off – control with sprays.

<b>Termites</b> - Subterranean termites tunnel through the stems of geraniums causing them to turn yellow and die. Treat the soil with the appropriate termite treatment. Don’t let them get to your house!

<b>Slugs</b> - slugs love gardens but they also love beer. Leave a saucer out and you will catch more than your fair share of slugs!

About the author: Lee Dobbins writes for <a href=http://www.geranium-flowers.com>http://www.geranium-flowers. com</a> where you can find out more about geraniums. Visit <a href=http://www.geranium-flowers.com/Geranium-Care.html>http://ww w.geranium-flowers.com/Geranium-Care.html</a> for more on Geranium care.

How To Create An Oasis of Serenity With a Backyard Garden Hot Tub

Author: Garry John

Article:

Imagine starting your morning with a saunter out the back door to enjoy a cup of coffee in your garden hot tub, or relaxing just before bed with a lazy soak in your backyard hot tub under the stars. More and more homeowners are taking the plunge (pardon the pun!) and installing a hot tub in their backyard or garden. If it all sounds tempting to you, here are a few things to consider when deciding where and whether to put a hot tub in YOUR backyard. </p>

<b>Do you have the space? </b></p>

A hot tub may look small, but even the smallest <a href=http://www.ukhottubsonline.co.uk>hot tubs</a> weigh hundreds of pounds – thousands when filled with water. You’ll need to figure in space for the plumbing and controls as well – and if your county requires security fencing around your tub, you’ll need to take that into consideration as well when you’re planning for your garden hot tub. </p>

<b>Where will you put it? </b></p>

No, really, it’s not the same question as above. Because of their weight and the need for plumbing and electricity, you’ll need to plan the location of your hot tub carefully. A hot tub on the patio or deck may sound wonderful – but it will need reinforcement to carry that much weight safely. Besides structural considerations, there are practical ones that are a lot more fun to consider. Do you want it close to the house – perhaps just outside your bedroom sliders so that you can slip in and out of it easily? Choose a spot for your backyard hot tub that gives you privacy, beauty and convenience. </p>

<b>Do you want a seasonal or year-round hot tub? </b></p>

You might think that soaking in a hot tub in your garden in winter is a chilling experience, but there’s something especially cozy about watching the snowflakes fall from the relaxing warmth of a garden hot tub. If you’d like to use your hot tub year round, discuss weather proofing with the construction company, and while you’re at it, consider a gazebo roof or similar protection for rainy days as well. </p>

<b>What are the zoning regulations in your area? </b></p>

In many townships and cities, outdoor backyard hot tubs require the same protections as swimming pools. The regulations may require a locked privacy fence around your garden, or at least around the hot tub itself to prevent accidental drowning. </p>

<b>How large a hot tub do you want? </b></p>

A two-person hot tub is cozy and romantic, but <a href=http://www.ukhottubsonline.co.uk>garden hot tubs</a> can spark some wonderful entertaining and parties. Will you want to invite the neighbors or workmates to party with you in your garden hot tub once in a while? A 4-8 person tub isn’t that much more expensive, and gives you the option of coziness and entertainment. </p>

<b>Should you choose an in-ground or above ground garden hot tub? </b></p>

The choice is strictly a matter of preference. In-ground garden hot tubs can blend into the landscaping in your back yard – but with the proper surrounds (a garden gazebo? A glass conservatory?) so can an above ground <a href=http://www.ukhottubsonline.co.uk>hot spa tub</a>. Price is another consideration here – an in-ground hot tub will require excavation that will make both construction and maintenance more costly. </p>

<b>What can I do in a garden or back yard hot tub? </b></p>

Ah, now – do you really need ME to tell you that? Simply enjoy! </p>

About the author: Garry John contributes to many home and garden sites such as <a href=http://www.ukhottubsonline.co.uk>hot spa tubs</a> and <a href=http://www.fancy-dress-wear.co.uk>fancy dress costume ideas</a>.

Is Your Geranium Turning Yellow?

Author: Lee Dobbins

Article: Are Your Geraniums Turning Yellow?

The geranium, like any other garden plant, needs proper care to flourish. Planting in a sunny spot, making sure the plant gets enough water and fertilizer and checking for disease and pests will help your plant to be healthy. One problem with geraniums is that they can turn yellow, wilt and drop leaves. Here’s some things to check for if this happens to your plant.

1. If your geranium is in a planter, it could be that the plant has outgrown the container. Make sure the pot is big enough and if it looks like the plant is outgrowing it, then transplant into a bigger pot. Make sure the container has adequate drainage and that you water once a week or as needed in hot weather.

2. Check for disease. Some disease include:

Leaf Spot - leaves fall off after becoming spotted. Remove infected leaves, water with a soaker so as to avoid getting water on plant.

Rust - rusty looking spots, plant turns yellow Treat with fungicidal spray.

Dropsy - mostly a problem with indoor plants that show lesions Don’t water the plant so much and put it in the sunniest spot you can find.

3. Look for pests such as caterpillars, flys, mites,termites and slugs are garden pests that might like to make a meal of your geraniums. You can control most of these pests with special sprays that you can get at your garden supply store. Aphids are another problem that may be controlled with ladybugs. Slugs can be captured simply by putting out a saucer of beer.

4. Make sure you fertilize properly. Geraniums like a soil that has plenty of nitrogen and lack of it can cause the plant to turn yellow. If you suspect this could be the problem, then you might try fertilizing with a fertilizer that has a high concentration of nitrogen.

About the author: Lee Dobbins writes for <a href=http://www.geranium-flowers.com>http://www.geranium-flowers. com</a> where you can find out more about geraniums. Visit <a href=""http://www.geranium-flowers.com/Geranium-Pests-and-Diseases .html"">http://www.geranium-flowers.com/Geranium-Pests-and-Disease s.html</a> for more on geranium pests and diseases.

Growing Geraniums Indoors Or Outdoors

Author: Lee Dobbins

Article: The geranium has long been a favorite plant for both garden beds and containers. This common geranium is actually a member of the genus Pelargonium while the wild geranium is a member of the genus Geranium. Both look great in gardens! Both the wild and common geraniums are suited for outdoor living, but the Regal or Martha Washington geranium is best kept in containers indoors.

Geraniums can be grown in planters on the porch, patio or garden. The ivy type geraniums are great for hanging baskets and window boxes. Make sure you use a container that is big enough for the plant or it will wilt (you may need to replant to prevent wilting as the plant grows). Use a soil that has enough aeration – either a commercial made mix or garden soil mixed with peat moss or perlite. Plant in a spot that is protected from strong wind and gets 6 hours sun a day. Make sure you water it frequently but do not let it sit in water.

The Regal or Martha Washington geranium is not suited for outdoor use but perfect for the indoors! Put your plant in a sunny window for best results. Perfect temperatures for your indoor geranium are mid 60’s during day time hours and mid 50’s at night. Fertilize once a month in spring and summer and every 2 months in fall and winter. Water weekly and use a container that has good drainage.

Some pests you might find making a meal of our geraniums include: caterpillars aphids whitefly mites slugs

Most of these can be controlled with sprays, the aphids can be controlled with ladybugs and the slugs can be captured in a shallow dish of beer. Also, watch for subterranean termites that tunnel through the stems of your plant causing it to turn yellow and die. If you suspect these, treat the soil with special treatment.

About the author: Lee Dobbins writes for <a href=http://www.geranium-flowers.com>http://www.geranium-flowers. com</a> where you can find out more about geraniums. Visit <a href=http://www.geranium-flowers.com/Geranium-Variety.html>http:/ /www.geranium-flowers.com/Geranium-Variety.html</a> for more on different types of Geraniums for your garden.

Poison Oak Pleasures

Author: Ed Williams

Article: Sometimes I have to wonder why certain things were invented or created – stuff like mosquitoes, dandruff, athlete’s foot, or ticks. If you want to take it one step further you can add in things like gout, Mathew Lesko, constipation, or the hiccups. All of these things are totally worthless, and I’ve wondered more than once why they’ve been inflicted upon the human race.

That’s a pretty somber beginning for a column, huh? I think so, too, if the truth be known. I might as well go ahead and come clean here, because writing the column this week is very difficult for me, and the reason it’s difficult is due to one of the “top of the list things” there’d be on a list of worthless items – I’m suffering from a bad case of poison oak, and it’s about to drive me nuts.

Don’t ask me how I got it, because I haven’t a clue. I haven’t walked around barefoot any recently, and only yesterday did I cut my grass, and I was already wrapped up with poison oak by that point. Any place that itches I can’t scratch – not the top of my head, not the little black ant who happens to be crawling up my left forearm, and I have to scrub down like a surgeon before I can even think about touching any of my private areas. My ankles have so many red blotches on them that they look like a series of angry islands, and I’ve just recently detected a couple of small ones on my neck, armpits, and stomach. I’m starting to look like someone at a performance art exhibition who begs passers-by to toss Campbell’s Tomato Soup on them, and that‘s nothing to brag about.

My personal appearance, therefore, is grotesque. The itching is even worse. Besides the unbearable tingling that‘s a constant, the worst thing is that the places you need to scratch the most are the very places you shouldn’t - I wish I could scratch my crotch for about ten minutes, which is not nice to say, but it’s the truth. Ditto for my armpits and the back of my knees. If someone put a washtub full of ice before me, I swear that I’d get naked and jump in it without thinking twice. Heck, without thinking once.

Y’all think that I’m getting lots of family support during this personal time of crisis? HA! If I had a good case of leprosy I wouldn’t be avoided any more than I am now. Forget hugs or smooches or any other types of physical affection from anyone, heck, forget even a handshake. Will just turned one down that I offered him a little while ago because, in his words, “Dad, I’m afraid your crud will run down my arm and start doing weird things to me.” Nothing greater than the love between a father and son, I suppose. That was such a downer that I decided to go over to The Wellness Center, work out, and get a sympathetic pat or two on the back from my friends there. I threw on my gym shorts, drove over, and had just gotten up on the Stairmaster when one of my good buddies, Will Zachary, walked up. He asked,

“Ed, what’s going on?”

My clever retort, “Not much.”

We chatted for awhile, then Will glanced downwards at my ankles and said, in a voice loud enough for approximately sixty percent of the gym to hear him,

“Ed, what are those big red spots on the sides of your ankles? It’s like you’re some kind of a red spotted Dalmation or something!”

I heard a few snickers, and when I looked up I felt like every eyeball in the building was locked onto my ankles. Without even thinking, I sort of crossed them to hide them, which had the net effect of spreading the spots even more. For the rest of my workout I was avoided like the plague, and the word going around the gym was that I had an affliction that ranged anywhere from poison oak to some kind of incurable disease. Needless to say, I left the Wellness Center a little less than pumped up, exuberant, and renewed.

So now I sit here writing this with ankles redder than China, trying to balm my deep inner pain with some Breyer’s Butter Pecan ice cream. I guess some worthless things will always be around, and all any of us can do is to make the best of what they bring, which is a good thought to keep in mind as I get ready to entertain a few of my distant relatives this coming weekend…

About the author: Ed’s latest book, “Rough As A Cob,“ can be ordered by calling River City Publishing toll-free at: 877-408-7078. He’s also a popular after dinner speaker, and his column runs in a number of Southeastern publications. You can contact him via email at: ed3@ed-williams.com, or through his web site address at: www.ed-williams.com.

Garden Composters and Composting Basics

Author: Mark Falco

Article: Why Compost?

Recent studies show that an average family throws away approximately 200 pounds of organic kitchen waste every year. Combine this with all the leaves, grass clippings and other organic garden waste accumulated over time and that's a lot of household waste being added to the already mountainous waste disposal problem. Some local authorities are refusing to take away green waste from gardening and others charge for the service in an effort to curb mounting costs and then when you add in the environmental costs of adding new landfill sites, road transport emissions from ferrying all this waste around and potentially incineration and the fumes that releases the environmental advantages of composting are clear.

In slightly more selfish terms, if you are a gardener then you will know the relatively high cost of fertiliser. Well, OK an average gardener's yearly fertiliser expenditure is not going to break the bank but when you can get fertiliser for free out of the stuff you throw away then it starts looking extremely expensive. Composting simply makes good environmental and financial sense and it's so easy to do there's nothing stopping you.

What Do I Need To Begin?

A compost bin, box, enclosure or handy place to put an open compost heap. Cheap plastic composters and compost bins can be bought from all good garden centers and are quite inexpensive depending on your requirements. A plastic compost bin is generally the cheapest whilst wood composters are generally more attractive additions to your garden but a little more costly. An open heap (just create a pile somewhere) is also an option but it is advisable to have some sort of cover like a tarpaulin available for colder periods of weather.

Another slightly different alternative to composting in the traditional sense is vermicomposting or wormeries. These use a special kind of worms to break down kitchen scraps producing a fine compost-like material fromtheir casts and a nutrient filled liquid plant food which is ideal for feeding indoor pot plants. If do a lot of greenhouse gardening or have a lot of houseplants then a wormery may be the best choice for the disposal of household waste.

If you do not want to actually spend money on a composter then building your own isn't exactly difficult if you do not mind picking up a hammer and nails. Nail together a few wooden pallets for example and you've got an enclosure suitable for composting. For plans and ideas on how to assemble your own composter at little cost, simply head to your favourite search engine and type in phrases like ""build your own composter"" or ""compost bin plans"" for an endless supply of simple ideas typically costing under $30.

Where To Put Your Compost

Whether you purchase a composting bin or make your own composter you need to make sure you have a flat, well drained place in your garden not too far away that you begrudge taking your kitchen scraps out to it. Compost bins should not be placed on concrete, patio areas etc. as you want to allow the insects, worms and microorganisms which help degradation of your waste materials the freedom to migrate into and out of your compost without hinderance.

In addition, choose a site which suits your climate. Warmth and moisture helps the composting process so place your composter in a place which receives a fair amount of sunlight and shelter from the wind if you live in a cooler climate and if in a hotter climate, ensure you give it shade to prevent it drying out.

What Materials Can You Compost?

Pretty much all your organic household and garden waste is an elligible candidate for composting although there are a few exceptions. Things to particularly avoid are meat, fish, bones, fats and oils, dairy products like milk and cheese, dog and cat droppings as these can attract animals, create foul smells as they degrade and carry nasty diseases. Also, whilst weeds and plants can be added, it is advised to dry out persisent weeds and remove seed heads before adding these. Ashes are also best avoided, as are glossy magazines although shredded paper and cardboard are fine to add. Feel free to add waste fruit and vegetables, crushed egg shells, coffee grounds (worms love them!) and tea bags, hair, leaves, grass clippings and other organic waste. As a general rule, if in doubt, leave it out but most organic waste will rot down just fine and if you shred it or cut it up smaller, it will compost faster.

How Long Before It Becomes Compost?

This depends on the balance of materials in your compost heap, the weather and the amount of time you can devote to the project. If you want to take an active managed approach to your composting then you can have afully composted pile in 3 months but if your only desire is to dispose of kitchen and garden waste in a more 'green' manner then it can take 6 months to a year or longer.

Managed composting can produce a 'hot rot' with very fast results but it does require additional effort on your behalf to keep it going. A managed, hot compost heap with an excellent balance of materials can reach temperatures of 70 degree celsius but requires regular turning and nurturing with careful layering and balance of browns and greens in the mix, shredding materials and maintaining a good moisture level.

An unmanaged cool heap is however much easier to maintain and rots down at up to 30 degrees celsius with little input from you. Just throwing your waste on the heap will give you a cooler heap which will rot down more slowly but is fine for green waste disposal purposes.

There are ways to increase the rate of the composting process in both cases by, for example, adding composting worms, or by using an activator which help speed up the process. The addition of a handful or soil now and then or horse manure will also add micro-organisms to speed up the composting process free of charge.

For The Best Compost...

...use a wide variety of different materials. The more varied the materials you add to the compost pile, the nutrient rich your final compost will be. Compost made from kitchen and garden waste is the best food for your plants and at the same time you are helping the environment and saving yourself and your local government money into the bargain.

About the author: Mark Falco runs the British gardening shopping guide found at http://www.ukgardeningsupplies.co.uk where you can find low prices on <a href=""http://www.ukgardeningsupplies.co.uk/composters.php"">compos ters</a> and composting equipment as well as other garden tools, furniture and accessories.

How to Raise House Plants from Seeds Easily

Author: Balaji B

Article: The principal house plants which are easy to raise by sowing seeds are Aloe (succulent plant), Asparagus species, Begonia semper-florensundB. rex, cacti (many kinds), Clivia, Cyclamen, Eucalyptus, Fuchsia (varieties), Grevillea robusta, Opuntia, Passijiora, Phoenix (palm), Primula malacoides and P. obconica, Ricinus, Rochea (succulent plant), Saintpaulia (hybrids) and Solatium capsicastrum.

The most suitable compost

It is best to sterilise the compost, and it should therefore be heated in a sterilising apparatus for 10 minutes at a temperature of 18o° F. After this partial sterilisation, the compost must be spread out on a bench to cool before use.

Watering a seed pan by partial immersion

A simple method of sterilising the compost is to water it with Cheshunt Compound steriliser. This chemical can be obtained from any seed store. It consists of a powder which, when dissolved in water, is sprinkled over the compost before or after the seeds have been sown. It is perfectly safe to use, and does not injure the smallest seedlings. Seed boxes and pots can be sterilised by this method and thereby made pest free. A satisfactory seed compost may be obtained by sterilising the loam only, and then adding the peat, sand and fertiliser.

Preparing the seed compost

The soil ingredients are sifted through a sieve having a |-mch mesh and thoroughly mixed. The pots or seed pans are given plenty of drainage crocks which are covered with rough siftings from the compost, and the receptacles are then filled with the compost.

This is made moderately firm by pressing it with the fingers; it is then moistened by holding the receptacle in a pail of water.The water must not come above the rim of the pot because it is necessary that the moisture should rise up through the compost. As soon as the surface of the soil becomes damp, the pot is set aside to drain for a few hours before seed sowing is commenced.

The depth to which the seeds are covered depends on their size. Very fine seeds, such as those of Begonia, require only a fine sprinkling of silver sand, whereas larger seeds should be covered to the depth of their greatest dimensions. When the seeds have been sown, the receptacles should be covered with panes of glass and shaded with sheets of paper.

Each day the glass should be reversed to prevent the condensed moisture from dripping on to the soil, and setting up decay. As soon as the seedlings appear, however, the paper covering must he removed and ventilation of the receptacle begun. The glass covering should therefore be tilted slightly. This is conveniently done by means of the plant label, and the amount of air is increased in this way until the covering can be removed altogether.

Pricking out the seedlings

As soon as the seedlings have developed their first true leaves they are pricked out ½ inch apart in pots of fertile compost such as John Innes Potting Mixture No. 1, and immediately watered in. They are shaded from bright sunlight until they are established. This generally takes 7-14 days, after which they are given more light and air. The 'cuttings' are taken in the usual way, by severing them just below a node (where a leaf is inserted in the stem). They are then fixed in the mouths of small-necked bottles where they remain suspended. The bottles are filled to within a fraction of an inch of the top of the necks with water, preferably rain water.

To prevent green scum (algae) forming in the water, it is best to place a few small lumps of charcoal in it. If this operation is done in the spring, the bottles of 'cuttings' can be set on the window-sill, and roots will form in a few weeks. Potting must be done immediately roots begin to form.

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Fall blooming flowers

Author: Tony Robinson

Article: To many people, fall is the time of year when the gardening season is drawing to a close, and it is time to close the flower bed and prepare for winter. Even though most gardeners are ready to hang up their garden tools and get ready for the next season, gardeners can continue to enjoy the beauty of the fall season, since there are a number of beautiful flowers blooming all through the autumn of the year.

There are many fall bulbs available to the average gardener, and it is important to choose the right ones. When initially planting the bulbs, it is important to take care to choose the best location within the garden. It is important to choose a location where the delicate fall bulbs will not be overshadowed by larger plants or hidden in with the surrounding ground cover.

One advantage of fall bulbs, however, is that they are hardy. After they have been in the ground a few years, these bulbs will be able to take their rightful place and thrive in any garden setting.

One of the most frequently seen of all fall bulbs is the hardy cyclamens (Cyclamen Hederifolium). These bulbs are able to come back year after year, and they have been known to last for a decade or even more. In addition, the hardy cyclamen produces breathtaking blooms, and it is generally a very undemanding plant.

Other than a good quality soil, sufficient water and ample sunlight, the cyclamen needs little in order to bloom year after year. Each small cyclamen bloom has a soft pink petal that is complimented by an eye of darker pink. These small blooms are tiny version of the larger cyclamen that is often seen at Christmastime. In the home garden, the hardy cyclamen often blooms into November.

Another popular autumn flower is the colchicum. These flowers usually bloom in the middle of September, and they are similar in appearance to crocuses but generally much larger. Most colchicums seen in the garden are hybrids of either C. Autumnale or C. Speciosum. There are some subtle differences between these two common varieties, and their blossoms come in shades of rose and violet. The sizes of colchicums vary from 10 to 12 inches. While these flowers can be used in many settings, they are a particularly beautiful way to accent a rock garden.

Autumn daffodils are another popular fall flower, and they can provide a beautiful touch of color for the garden. It is important to plant fall daffodils in a well drained flower bed and to provide them with plenty of sunlight. It is also important to avoid planting autumn daffodils in areas where moisture pools, as excessive moisture could damage the bulbs. Autumn daffodils often bloom at the same time as the colchicum, and the two can provide a striking color palette.

About the author: Tony Robinson is an international author and webmaster. In his busy life he finds time to ""Smell the Roses"". For geat tips, techniques and articles visit http://www.rose-bloom.com

A Kids Tree

Author: Jason Canon

Article: During my youth kids were required to pass through a tree climbing phase as part of the transition from being a kid to becoming a teenager. Not just any old tree would do of course. The majestic oak was always a tower of strength but the limbs were too high up for it to be a good climbing tree. Likewise, the tall pecan trees that grew in our yard would have required a chain of ladders just to make it to the first limb.

Back toward the center of our property grew a very beautiful Sweet Bay Magnolia (Magnolia Virginiana) tree. The leaves were bright green with an almost wax appearance in the sunshine. Inside the green foliage it was very easy to climb right to the center trunk where numerous low hanging limbs were perfect for any size kid. It was so much fun to make the criss-cross climb across the various tree branches winding my way up as close as possible to the top. Inside the foliage, cool air rustling the leaves was the only sound heard on a summer’s midday. The beautiful, fragrant magnolia flower blooms were always a special treat in March and April. Only a kid knew that the best views of the flowers were from an inside tree limb looking out towards the sun.

Of course for total climbing pleasure this kid of leisure would usually choose the fig tree. With its very low entry point from the ground, right away you’re sitting half-way up in the middle of the tree. Our fig tree limbs formed a natural cradle allowing me to lay back with arms outstretched and relax just as well as any hammock. When the figs were in season it was a real treat just to reach out and grab a handful to snack on. Fairly often it became necessary to share the fig tree with passing birds because in choosing between fear of humans and the taste of ripe figs they always managed to be courageous.

Parents if you have the space to grow trees make sure your kids get to enjoy the wonderful pleasures of tree climbing. It will bless them with lifelong memories.

For additional tree information visit: http://www.vanursery.com where over 160 trees are described along with photographs.

© Peach ePublishing, LLC

About the author: In addition to being a passionate gardener Jason Canon has authored numerous technical research papers including: photonic switching, gigabit networking, VoIP/E9-1-1, and others. Email: jmc@canon.org.

Hibiscus

Author: Judi Singleton

Article: There are over a 200 kinds of hibiscus. They grow all over the world. They have been associated with the Goddess as the Rose of Sharon variety. They have a long history. Not surprising as they are beautiful and used for many medicinal purposes.

If your hibiscus has dull medium green heart shaped leaves, dinner plate sized white, pink or red flowers with HUGE, bomb shaped buds (2-4"" in length!), it is a perennial, hardy hibiscus.

Hardy hibiscus need very little care over the winter, they are root hardy to about zone 5 with no protection. They die to the ground each year. Hibiscus (Hibiscus sabdariffa), also known as roselle, is a flowering shrub in the plant family of Malvaceae and is the commonly used species of hibiscus for tea. The calyces are used to make cold and hot beverages in many of the world's tropical and subtropical countries. The calyces (or calyxes) are used which are the outer portion of the flower bud. The calyces are often referred to as hibiscus flowers in recipes and tea blends. It is also a great contribution to the popular rosehip tea giving it a lemony flavor and lovely red color. The aroma and taste of Hibiscus is slightly of berry-like aroma. It has a well balanced, tart and astringent flavor.

Hibiscus were once called shoe-black, ""indicating the use of its flowers by tropical bootblacks, to polish shoes."" (Taylor's Encyclopedia of Gardening, 1961) This was the single reliable reference to this use the author could discover. Nor could this author allow such a claim to stand without attempting experimentation.One red flower (five petals removed from calyx, stamens, and pistil) did one shoe. The red petals became liquefied and slimy under pressure against the leather. The liquid dried and could be buffed within minutes. The right shoe of an old pair of black business shoes now appears much shinier than its 'sinister' counterpart. The tips of the thumb, index, and middle finger of my right hand were also a dark purple until liquid detergent and a brush were applied. Medicinal Uses

Medicinally, leaves are emollient, and are much used in Guinea as a diuretic, refrigerant, and sedative; fruits are antiscorbutic; leaves, seeds, and ripe calyces are diuretic and antiscorbutic; and the succulent calyx, boiled in water, is used as a drink in bilious attacks; the leaves and powdered seeds are eaten in West Africa. Philippines use the bitter root as an aperitive and tonic. Angolans use the mucilaginous leaves as an emollient and as a soothing cough remedy.

Hibiscus flower extract has been used in many folk remedies for liver disorders and high blood pressure. Hibiscus - Relieves stomach problems, sweetens breath and soothes nerves. Said to be an aphrodisiac. Cholesterol / Heart Disease - a study at the Chung Shan University in Taiwan involving rats on high cholesterol diets demonstrated that an extract of the hibiscus flower significantly lowered cholesterol content in blood serum and prevented oxidation of LDL, ""bad"", cholesterol. ""Experiments have shown that compounds extracted from red wine and tea reduce cholesterol and lipid build-up in the arteries of rats.

""This is the first study to show that Hibiscus extract has the same effect.""

- Dr. Chau-Jong Wang, lead researcher

Hypertension - in one study individuals with hypertension were given hibiscus tea once daily for 12 days. Members of the control group lowered their blood pressure by 11% versus 4% for the control group.

Liver Disorder - hibiscus is thought to help with liver disorders, though no studies to this effect have been done. It act as an antiseptic, aphrodisiac, astringent, cholagogue, demulcent, digestive, diuretic, emollient, purgative, refrigerant, resolvent, sedative, stomachic, and tonic.

Roselle is a folk remedy for abscesses, bilious conditions, cancer, cough, debility, dyspepsia, dysuria, fever, hangover, heart ailments, hypertension, neurosis, scurvy, and strangury. Uses include an aphrodisiac; soothes nerves; antispasmodic; itchy skin; stomach problems; sweeten breath; attract love/lust; divination; dreams. Bunga Raya, is known for its medicinal properties. The roots of the plant are used as a cure for fever and other ailments, while the juice obtained from the leaves and roots is said to be effective in relieving skin eruptions and glandular troubles. Also, the petals were commonly used as cosmetics to darken and highlight women's eyebrows.

Rose of Sharon was not so much a specific earthly flower as it was a symbol of the Perfect Bride, & the Perfect Bride symbolized the fruitfulness & beauty of the Earth (or Earthmother) when She was at peace & in harmony with God. ""Sharon"" means ""Fruitful,"" a word that Torah associates with good pasturage for sheep.

About the author: If you like this article Judi Singleton writes ten blogs a week visit http://www.motherearthpublishing.com for a list of her blogs

Gardening is Good Therapy

Author: Valerie Giles

Article: Many of us garden just for the sheer joy of it. But did you know that all over the country the healing aspects of gardening are being used as therapy or as an adjunct to therapy?

Although this might sound like a new concept, garden therapy has been around for decades. For example, the Garden Therapy Program at Central State Hospital in Milledgeville, and in regional hospitals in Atlanta, Augusta, Columbus, Rome, Thomasville and Savannah, has been helping people for over 40 years through gardening activities known as social and therapeutic horticulture.

<b>So what exactly is social and therapeutic horticulture (or garden therapy)?</b>

  According to the article “Your future starts here: practitioners determine the way ahead” from Growth Point (1999) volume 79, pages 4-5, horticultural therapy is the use of plants by a trained professional as a medium through which certain clinically defined goals may be met. “…Therapeutic horticulture is the process by which individuals may develop well-being using plans and horticulture. This is achieved by active or passive involvement.”

Although the physical benefits of garden therapy have not yet been fully realized through research, the overall benefits are almost overwhelming. For starters, gardening therapy programs result in increased elf-esteem and self-confidence for all participants.

  Social and therapeutic horticulture also develops social and work skills, literacy and numeric skills, an increased sense of general well-being and the opportunity for social interaction and the development of independence. In some instances it can also lead to employment or further training or education. Obviously different groups will achieve different results.

Groups recovering from major illness or injury, those with physical disabilities, learning disabilities and mental health problems, older people, offenders and those who misuse drugs or alcohol, can all benefit from the therapeutic aspects of gardening as presented through specific therapy related programs. In most cases, those that experience the biggest impact are vulnerable or socially excluded individuals or groups, including the ill, the elderly, and those kept in secure locations, such as hospitals or prisons.

One important benefit to using social and therapeutic horticulture is that traditional forms of communication aren’t always required. This is particularly important for stroke patients, car accident victims, those with cerebral palsy, aphasia or other illnesses or accidents that hinder verbal communication. Gardening activities lend themselves easily to communicative disabled individuals. This in turn builds teamwork, self-esteem and self-confidence, while encouraging social interaction.

  Another group that clearly benefits from social and therapeutic horticulture are those that misuse alcohol or substances and those in prison. Teaching horticulture not only becomes a life skill for these individuals, but also develops a wide range of additional benefits.

Social and therapeutic horticultures gives these individuals a chance to participate in a meaningful activity, which produces food, in addition to creating skills relating to responsibility, social skills and work ethic.

  The same is true for juvenile offenders. Gardening therapy, as vocational horticulture curriculum, can be a tool to improve social bonding in addition to developing improved attitudes about personal success and a new awareness of personal job preparedness.

The mental benefits don’t end there. Increased abilities in decision-making and self-control are common themes reported by staff in secure psychiatric hospitals. Reports of increased confidence, self-esteem and hope are also common in this environment.

Prison staff have also noticed that gardening therapy improves the social interaction of the inmates, in addition to improving mutual understanding between project staff and prisoners who shared outdoor conditions of work.

  It’s interesting that studies in both hospitals and prisons consistently list improving relationships between participants, integrating with the community, life skills and ownership as being some of the real benefits to participants.

But in addition to creating a myriad of emotional and social benefits, the health benefits of being outdoors, breathing in fresh air and doing physical work cannot be overlooked. In most studies, participants noted that fresh air, fitness and weight control where prime benefits that couldn’t be overlooked.

  Although unable to pin down a solid reason, studies have shown that human being posses an innate attraction to nature. What we do know, is that being outdoors creates feelings of appreciation, tranquility, spirituality and peace. So it would seem, that just being in a garden setting is in itself restorative. Active gardening only heightens those feelings.

  With so many positive benefits to gardening, isn’t it time you got outside and started tending to your garden? Next time you are kneeling in fresh dirt to pull weeds or plant a new variety of a vegetable or flower, think about the tranquility you feel while being outdoors in your garden. Let the act of gardening sooth and revitalize you. Soak up the positive benefits of tending to your own garden.

If you have someone in your life that could benefit from garden therapy, contact your local health unit to find out more about programs in your area. Not only will the enjoyment of gardening help bond you together, but it will also create numerous positive mental and physical benefits for both of you.

So get gardening today for both your physical and mental health. You’ll enjoy the experience so much that you’ll immediately thank yourself.

About the author: Valerie Giles operates the <a href=""http://www.grow-your-own-garden.com"">Grow Your Own Garden</a> Website which focuses on gardening products, <a href=""http://www.grow-your-own-garden.com"">flower and vegetable seeds</a>, atio furniture and garden accessories. Everything you need for the gardening season.<a href=""http://www.grow-your-own-garden.com"">http://www.grow-your-o wn-garden.com

How to Grow a Pineapple

Author: Linda Paquette

Article: The first thing you need to grow a pineapple is a pineapple. The pineapple (ananas comosus) is a bromeliad; in fact, one of the few in its family that is edible. However, the fruit of an unripe pineapple is poisonous and will irritate both your mouth and throat. Even the ripe fruit of the houseplant pineapple is not nearly as luscious and sweet as that grown in the sands of the tropics; still, the pineapple is a striking, interesting, and unusual plant to add to your collection.

The pineapple is a biennial. The first year it produces leaves and the second year it produces the flowering stalk that becomes the fruit. Actually, the pineapple flower becomes the popular fruit. A small leaf-like cluster produces up to 200 dagger shaped bracts that are the flowers. These flowers have immature ovaries that are called inflorescences. Each ovary turns into a seedless berry, the berries fuse together into one unit: the multiple fruit or sorosis we call the pineapple.

So how do you grow a pineapple?

To grow a pineapple, purchase a whole one at your local grocery. Cut off the top, making sure your cut contains some of the fruit. Let this dry in the sun for a couple of days. When this plug has “hardened off”, plant the top fruit side down. Cover the plug only enough to make sure it is firmly seated in your pot. Water the plant weekly until it is established; then water only when the sand is dry to your touch.

One of the interesting parts of growing pineapple plants is that they absorb nutrients and moisture through their leaves more than through their roots. When you water a pineapple plant, pour the water into the vase-like center of the leaves. Alternatively, you can mist the leaves with a spray bottle, concentrating the spray near the center of the plant, but continuing until the surrounding sand is damp.

About the author:

Linda is an author of <a href=""http://www.gardening-guides.com/related-articles/how-to/rel ated-how-to.htm""> Gardening Tips Tricks and Howto's</a>&nbsp; of Gardening Guides and the<a href=""http://www.lawnmower-guide.com/product-pages/prod_lawn_care .htm""> Lawn Care</a> section of the Lawnmower Guide.

Linda writes and inspire you to try new ideas from her own experience.

Wind Chimes Go Great With Gardening

Author: Lee Dobbins

Article: What could be more relaxing than gardening on a nice summer morning? Listening to your wind chime while you garden! Wind chimes are not only fun to look at but they add much more to your garden then just visual appeal.

Wind chimes have tones and vibrations that soothe and calm the mind helping to release all your stress. When you dig in the garden and connect with the earth, listening to your chimes tinkle in the breeze can help you also connect with your inner spirit. Chimes have been used for much more than just decoration for centuries. In fact, wind chimes are used in many Feng Shui cures. You can hang your chimes inside as well as outside, metal chimes are best for North, Northwest and West while wood chimes are best for South, Southeast and East. The number of rods can be associated with the cure you want. Use 4, 6, 7, 8 or 18 rods for luck and 5 rods to reject bad energy. Use bamboo for outside.

Of course, you should pick chimes that decorate your porch or garden area to your liking. There’s plenty of styles and materials to choose from. I favor the chimes with a stained glass decoration on top that comes in all kinds of whimsical styles. If you are more traditional, you might go for a simple bamboo chime with an Asian flair. You can even get chimes that are hand tuned if you are really into the sound quality of your wind chime.

Hanging your wind chimes is easy. To hang from the top of your porch, you can use a simple C shaped hook that screws into the ceiling. Any type hook can be used as long as it is strong enough to support your wind chime. Be sure you hang it in an area where it’s freedom of movement is not obstructed by anything. You can also buy fancy hangers that screw in or that stick up from the ground. When hanging your chime, try to pick a place that will not get a strong wind – this way you can be sure your chime does not blow off and break.

So, the next time that you get out into the garden, make sure that you hang out some wind chimes so that you can add a new level to your gardening experience!

About the author: Lee Dobbins writes for <A HREF=http://www.wonderful-wind-chimes.com>http://www.wonderful-wi nd-chimes.com</A> where you can find all kinds of wind chimes to brighten your day. Learn more about the differnt kinds of stained glass chimes at <A HREF=http://www.wonderful-wind-chimes.com/Glass-Chimes.html>http: //www.wonderful-wind-chimes.com/Glass-Chimes.html</A>

Drying Roses

Author: Jan Nicholas

Article: There are many reasons why you might want to dry your roses. Some people just want to keep a memento of a special moment. Perhaps they are a part of a wedding that you went to; maybe they were a gift from a mate, friend, or family member. Whatever your reasons for doing it, this is the section where you will learn to dry your roses properly.

There two ways drying rose petal can happen and that are cheap and relatively easy.

Air Drying

Air drying is by far the easiest and cheapest method of drying flowers including roses. It is simple; all you have to do is follow these simple instructions.

Start with perfect and unflawed roses on their stems. If the roses are not in perfect condition, they will wither and the petals will fall off.

Remove any leaves that may be on the branches.

Bunch them up together in a manner that lets them fan out. Tie the bottom with string or a rubber band.

Hang them upside down in a dark, dry place for two to three weeks to be certain that they are completely dry.

Sand Drying

Start by picking the roses that are in perfect condition. They shouldn’t have any dew on them and the stems should be dry as well.

You can reinforce the stems and blossom with either white glue or florist wire.

For florist wire, you will want to cut off most of the stem. Leave about one inch of stem.

Push about 3 inches of wire through the stem and right through the flower head.

Next, you want to bend the end of the wire into a hook over each rose head and pull it down. This helps to keep the head secured to the stem.

When choosing to use the glue, begin by diluting the glue in a dab of water.

You will take a toothpick and dab a thin coat of the glue mixture at the base of each petal.

Next, you will work the glue into the base of the stems of each flower so that you can attach each petal to the base, wait till the glue dries completely

Now for the sand, slowly and carefully cover the flowers with sand in deep open boxes.

Make the sand in the box deep enough to hold the flowers upright.

Sit each flower in the sand filled box and slowly pour sand around the base, around the sides, and over and under the petals. You should pour the sand evenly so that you can preserve the flowers natural shape.

You will want to wait for the flowers to dry while facing upright.

Put the boxes with the roses in a dry space that is warm and brightly lit. This will ensure that your roses will maintain their bright color.

Let them dry for one to three weeks. If you want more muted colors, you will want to dry them in a more humid area.

To remove the sand, tip the drying container slightly so that the sand can fall off the flowers. Remove each flower one by one.

Now you have successfully learned how to dry your roses so that they are ready for you to do whatever you’d like with them. These dried flowers will make great decorations for any room in your house or office, or whatever else you’d like to do.

About the author: More gardening articles, information and tips at <A HREF=http://www.gardenarticles.com>http://www.gardenarticles.com< /A>