Tuesday, February 28, 2006

Spring is around the corner - How is your Garden?

Author: Anita Johnston

Article: Spring is in my opinion the most wonderful time of year for the gardener. You can shake of that winter weariness and get ready for a new gardening season.

The most difficult part of spring gardening is trying to manage your impatience. Don't start digging around too early. The soil must be dry enough to have it fall apart when you pick it up. When it still sticks together like glue that's definitely not the case.

Early spring is the best time of year to change (parts of) your garden design. You can transplant existing shrubs and perennial plants before they begin to leaf out. This also is the time to prune your trees and shrubs. Cut back the remaining dead foliage from last season and remove dead, damaged or diseased branches of trees and shrubs.

And then flowers! That's really what spring is about isn't it! There are many that are suitable for cool spring weather. Think of sweet alyssum, some snapdragons, stock and sweat peas. You can also start some perennials like hostas and daylilies.

Start some Violets, Marigolds, Carnations, Geraniums and Impatiens inside to transplant to your flower beds in early spring. Or if you have some space left in your garden you can set up a ""Cold Frame"". Ready-made cold frames are available in different sizes. A cold frame ""captures"" the spring sunlight and warms the soil it surrounds. That way it is ideal to ""harden off"" houseplants and transplants for your summer garden. You can use the cold frame for direct seeding as well.

If you have unplanted areas in your garden a great spring project is to lay out landscape cloth on that unplanted area. Landscape cloth is an excellent weed barrier. It comes in different weights, heights and fabric choices. This cloth can then also serve as a great map to precisely plant your transplants.

Weeds start to grow very early but still have shallow roots in spring so get them out when you spot them. Getting on top of the weeds now means a lot less work in summer, and I'm sure that digging out weeds in the burning sun in not your favorite pastime.

These two measures will definitely intimidate your perennial weeds to the extent that they will prefer your neighbor's garden over yours.

And most of all enjoy your spring garden, watch it grow and blossom into summer!

About the author: Anita is one of the authors of <a href=""http://www.gardening-guides.com""> http://www.gardening-guides.com</a> and <a href=""http://www.lawnmower-guide.com/"">http://www.lawnmower-guide .com/</a>

Pairing Orchids with Other Flowers

Author: Orchid Geeks

Article: Because there are so many varieties of orchids, you'll also find that there are lots of unique pairings of orchids with other plants. One of the most striking ways to grow and display your orchids, in fact, is in a naturalistic setting in a terrarium where their unconventional beauty is complemented by other plants that are native to the same habitats. By including gravel, charcoal or bark chips in the growth medium of your terrarium, you can happily grow a wide variety of orchids that will suit and complement other plants chosen for your terrarium.

Orchids are quite happy sharing their environment with other flowers and plants. Generally, orchids have the same temperature, humidity and light requirements as most popular houseplants, so they don't need a specialized environment set apart from your other houseplants. Because orchids are epiphytic (taking their nutrition from the moisture in the air), you'll find that they work very well in dish gardens when provided with a layer of moist sphagnum moss or loose bark in which to root.<a href=""http://www.orchidgeeks.com"">orchid care </a>

One of the most common pairings for a terrarium are carnivorous plants and orchids. The exotic foliage and showy blooms of the two kinds of plants not only look spectacular together - the two plants also 'help' each other. While the relationship isn't quite symbiotic, the blooms of the orchid help attract the insects on which a Venus fly trap or other carnivorous plant feeds. It's a popular pairing that is often promoted by the sellers of exotic plants.

About the author: OrchidGeeks.com is a leading authority in orchid information, http://www.orchidgeeks.com Join a community of fellow orchid enthusiasts today!

How Do I Make My Dozen Roses Look Right?

Author: Willie Jones

When I first started to design flowers I often heard how designers had difficulty making a dozen roses look nice. That it was hard to keep the roses in place. But it is really very easy to do if you know a few simple basics.

1) First prepare the rose by taking off the bottom half of the leaves and popping off the thorns. Most people prefer the thorns off but as much as possible I leave the thorns on. This is because taking them off can leave open wounds and may allow microbial bacteria to enter and shorten the life of the flower.

2) Cut the rose stem slantwise under water (so they don't get an air pocket that prevents them from drinking) and place in small bucket or vase that has warm water and flower food.

3) Make sure you have the right size vase. Too small and you'll have them all standing up straight and it will look funny. Too big and you'll have way too much space to fill in. This may sound common sense but believe me; all beginning designers have made this mistake.

There are two ways that I have found to be the best:

a) Fill a vase with water ¾ of the way full.

b) Take your greens (usually leather leaf) and start putting them in the vase starting from the outside all around and moving inward. The greens should be crisscrossing themselves. This gives a good stiff base for the roses to be able to stand without flopping. Or:

a) Take a dry vase and clear floral tape. You can get this at a craft store and it is very sticky and water proof.

b) Use this tape at the top of the vase by making a grid. You should leave enough room to allow the stem and greens to pass through.

c) Fill the vase with water and flower food and start putting your greens in, same as before, start inserting from outside towards the inside stems crossing each other. The advantage to using the grid is you can use fewer greens.

d) Now you are ready to place the roses in.

In most floral designing you design from the outside inward. But for roses I prefer the opposite. I start with what I call the anchor rose. I take my longest stem and stick it right in the middle. If you have done your greening correctly, is should stand straight up. Place the next 4 roses in around the first rose but slightly shorter. Continue in this fashion until all roses have been placed. Now stand back and look at it to see if you need to make any adjustments. Then place in the filler of your choice such as baby's breath. Finish with a bow and enjoy your creation.

There are many ways to place the roses but remember, keep it simple. Don't make it complicated. There is a beautiful motivational print called Beauty-White Magnolia that says, "Appreciate Simplicity". That's my motto.

Enjoy!

About the author: Willie Jones is a freelance writer, researcher, floral designer, and artist, for Art Inspires, Inc. Make sure you enroll in the free motivational poster drawing at http:/ /www.artinspires.com

Tips for choosing a landscaping firm

Author: Thomas Paul

Article: It is known to everyone that landscaping will make the yard very attractive, at the same time attractiveness is not the sole benefit that we can enjoy from a properly planed and implemented landscaping. It is rightly said that we have to put our effort to gain some benefits. This is applicable in the case of landscaping also. But it is not possible for every one who is interested in landscaping to spend enough time for landscaping because of various reasons. Here's where comes the importance of firms that are engaged in providing landscaping services.

The following are the simple but the most important points that you have to consider while choosing a landscaping firm.

Make an outline of your own idea If you have your own idea with regard to <a href=""http://www.dreamlandscaping.com"">landscaping</a>, first convert that idea into a sheet of paper. After that decide on the things that you want in the landscape like patios, pools, vines, trees, colors etc. Then start looking for a landscaping company. But it is not necessary that everyone must have the idea about their own landscapes, in such cases the help of a professional company is needed from the very beginning.

Analyzing the options

It is very important to locate the company first for making use of the services provided by it. This can be accomplished through searching online or by using an online or offline landscape company directory. You can even ask your friends and relatives for collecting the contact details.

Contacting the concerned officials

The next step is to meet the officials of various companies's, and if you are a person having your own idea communicate your idea with them or you can ask them for various plans. Also ask about the applicator (the person who is going to work with you) that will be associated with your loan and if possible meet him. This is because for better results there should be a good understanding between you and the applicator. If the applicator doesn't suits you it's advisable to move to another company.

Ensure the firm is authorized to do the work

This is a major point that cannot be ignored. You have to make sure that the company you are contacting is properly authorized by the authorities to do such kind of work. For this purpose you have to ensure that the company is having valid license, certifications etc. Always check for the firm's federal identification number.

Verify the existence of the company

It's always better to enquire about the time the company has been in existence. This is because of the fact that a company that has been in existence over a period of time will have the knowledge and experience in doing the work, so that they can implement your work in a better way than your expectation.

Analyze the past and present projects of the company

It's always better to make an analysis of the past projects of the company directly by visiting. This gives you a good idea about the work of the company and what the company is really capable of. If possible try to speak to the owner of the landscape, so that you can have an idea of the service of the company. In addition to completed projects, visiting of on going projects will provide some idea about quality of work, job presence, crew's appearance etc

Get assurances regarding maintenance

Landscapes require year round maintenance in order to keep them attractive at all times. So while choosing a landscaping firm it is very important to ensure that they will provide the required timely maintenance. You can give information about the maintenance offered from the firm itself as well as from people who are currently using their services.

Insist on a legally valid agreement Once you have selected the landscaping firm, you have to ask for a legally binding agreement that contains each and every aspects of the contract. The contract has to be signed by concerned parties. The agreement should contain details regarding plants, proposed design and materials to be used, terms of payment, duration of work, maintenance, guarantees, total cost involved, starting and finishing of work.

The above mentioned tips will definitely help you in finding the best suited landscaping firm for making your yard attractive and beautiful. Happy Landscaping.

Author Descrpition dreamlandscaping.com deals with advanced and latest tips in relation to landscaping. The site also provides design tips, <a href=""http://www.dreamlandscaping.com"">landscaping</a> information and landscaping resources. The site also includes a glossary that deals with various terms related to landscaping.

About the author: Author Descrpition dreamlandscaping.com deals with advanced and latest tips in relation to landscaping. The site also provides design tips, <a href=""http://www.dreamlandscaping.com"">landscaping</a> information and landscaping resources. The site also includes a glossary that deals with various terms related to landscaping.

Viburnums: Shrubs With All Season Interest

Author: B Hirst

Article: Viburnums: Shrubs with All Season Interest Viburnums are the most attractive, versatile, adaptable shrubs for any landscape. They can be used as hedges or screens and in mixed perennial/shrub borders. They can also stand alone as specimen plants. They usually take the form of shrubs, but some species can become small ornamental trees. They range in size from the Dwarf American Cranberrybush at 2 feet tall by 2 feet wide, to the Siebold at over 15 feet tall.

Viburnums are plants with year round interest. Viburnums have white to pink flowers in the spring. They have large, attractive and often textured leaves. Some viburnums have wonderfully fragrant flowers that are produced in snowball shaped clusters in April. Their flower clusters can consist of pink buds, which develop into white flowers. Some fruits are red and turn black with age. Leaves are glossy, dark green and turn a burgundy color in the fall. Midsummer berries are an important food source for birds. Viburnums have colorful red to purple leaves. Some viburnums can become medium-size trees, especially if they are pruned. Viburnums excel as specimen plants or as anchors in mixed borders. You won't find a more versatile group of shrubs for hedges or for massing in groups, since viburnums hold their own in every season. Some viburnums, such as Prague viburnum 'Pragense', are evergreen. Others, such as leatherleaf viburnum, are semi-evergreen in colder climates, losing their leaves when temperatures dip below 10 degrees.

We feel that Viburnums are plants that have great winter interest. All Viburnums have white to pink flowers in the spring. The foliage is large, attractive and often textured leaves. Some viburnums have fragrant flowers that are produced in snowball shaped clusters in April. Their flower clusters can consist of pink buds, which develop into white flowers. Some fruits are red and turn black with age usually bitter tasting. Leaves can be glossy, dark green and turn a burgundy color in the fall. Midsummer berries are an important food source for birds. Viburnums have colorful red to purple leaves. Some viburnums can become medium-size trees, especially if they are pruned. Viburnums excel as specimen plants or as anchors in mixed borders. You won't find a more versatile group of shrubs for hedges or for massing in groups, since viburnums hold their own in every season. Some viburnums, such as Prague viburnum 'Pragense', are evergreen. Others, such as leatherleaf viburnum, are semi-evergreen in colder climates, losing their leaves when temperatures dip below 10 degrees.

The great feature of Viburnums is that they are adaptabe. While they would like full sun and moderately watered, well-drained rich soils, they will grow very well in part shade, and in clay soils. Diseases and pests rarely attack them and they don't tend to have to be spayed. My kids have run over them with brush hogs and they survived. Their fibrous root system makes them transplant easily.

In your search for a good, hardy shrub with winter interest consider the Viburnum family.

Viburnums have long been popular garden plants, celebrated for their white, often fragrant spring flowers and their fall color. But it's the Asian viburnums that have so far gathered the most fame. Perhaps the most widely appreciated viburnums are the Burkwood viburnum (Viburnum x burkwoodii), and the Korean spice viburnum (V. carlesii), both of which fill the air with a pleasant odorin mid-spring. Also popular is the doublefile viburnum (V. plicatum f. tomentosum), valued for its layered habit, fall foliage, and clusters of red fruits. Viburnum acerifolium (Maple-leafed viburnum) Although I wouldn't garden without any of these, I have a special fondness for several of the native viburnums. They may not provide the fragrance of their Asian cousins, but I love them not only for their rich fall foliage color but also for their fruit displays, which attract wildlife to my garden in the fall and durring the bleak winter months. In addition, several are useful to today's waterwise gardeners or for urban conditions. They require only corrective pruning, and none commonly suffer from pests or diseases. I would be hardpressed to say which viburnum I would choose if I could only have one.

Viburnums are moist woodland plants. In nature they are found along steam banks from Long Island to Florida. When you come to our 5275 West Swamp Rd. location ask us to show some in their native habitat that we found along our stream bank. These plants perform well under normal landscape conditions. I especially like the floral display in the spring and these viburnums that bear fruit in the fall. Winterthur has great red leaves and abundant fruit in the fall. This cultivar needs a cross pollinator such as viburnum nudum.

Native Americans used Viburnum dentatum (arrowwood viburnum) for arrow shafts. There stems are long and strait. This plant will grow in places many plants struggle. So if you have had trouble with plants in a harsh location try this cultivar. Viburnums We raise over 10 types of Viburnums on our farms from seedlings to 5' shrubs. If you have poor soils due to compacting from construction, try viburnums. Being rugged and hardy, they perform where other plants fail. American Cranberry Bush KoreanSpice Blackhaw ArrowwoodViburnum Chicago Luster (we have 500 3-6' that must be sold by Sept 28 2005) Dawn Summer Snowflake Shasta Winterthur Blue Muffin Burkwood Erie Tea Judd Korean Spice Praque Siebold

In the Tyrolean Alps, okay, the southern ""Alps Mountains"" includes a region named Tyrol, a glacier-preserved 5,300-year old ""ice-mummy"" was found in 1991. This prehistoric man was preserved better than any other specimen ever found. What an incredible discovery. He was just lying there in the snow of the Hauslabjoch Pass on a warm September day when two hiking tourists saw his head. He had a bow of Evergreen Yew wood and arrows with shafts of Rosewood. There was even a stone arrowhead of flint, the hardened dark quartz, an axehead, and what seemed to be a medicine kit in a box of wood from a Birch tree. Birch is a popular landscaping tree with many varieties. How 'bout that, all these trees which are mentioned, we sell at Highland Hill Farm!

Where we invite our customers to explore for Indian artifacts, hunt, fish, camp, etc., maybe you can get lucky too. We have 5 properties, totalling 1100 acres, near the town of Milan, Pa, on the western side of Susquehanna River in rural Bradford County. From Highland Hill Farm it is about a two-hour drive if you'll please obey the speed limits. America's prehistoric residents and later Native American Indians used straight branches from Arrowwood Viburnums, as the name implies, to make their arrows' shafts. Did you ever wonder at what point in their growth the outside of thin tree boughs and twigs develop bark and become wood? When do little seedling's stems, their ""mini-trunks,"" grow up enough to develop bark and become wood? How thick does a green wispy thin twig have to become before it's a branch of wood? The answer is, generally, at about a half-inch diameter. In fact, that is just about the diameter of the Alpine Iceman's arrows.

The greatest find since the discovery of the Neanderthal Neandertal) Man and the Cro-Magnon Man in France was barely a few feet over the Italian side of the border with Austria resting at an altitude of 10,500 feet. A total of four books, two books popular enough to become paperbacks, have since been written about ""Oetzi,"" or ""Otzi,"" as the ice-mummy has been named. Uncovering the Life and Times of a Prehistoric Man Found in an Alpine Glacier, by Brenda Fowler, was published in 2000. The Man in the Ice was published in 1995, by Konrad Spindler, the local archaeologist brought in when it became obvious a modern-day murder victim hadn't been found. His book was updated in 2001. Two children's books have also been published to help develop their interest in historical science as something they'll find ""current,"" and not ""boring."" The intense study of the ""ice-mummy"" yielding all the detailed information for these books was performed at Innsbruck University, and the body is now on display at the museum in Bolzano, Italy.

Do you see it? The point here is that when you plant trees and shrubs you aren't just creating aesthetics, adding beauty, as implied by ""ornamental"" in so many of the names. You aren't just adding a wind break or privacy screen. You are, in fact, giving your property additional natural resources.

After all the hours spent on this, and the !%^&@$*%#! Are/but/a/vitae, I need a break. If you need more info go to http://www.seedlingsrus.com

About the author: Grower of trees plants and shrubs for over 45 years

Monday, February 27, 2006

Inexpensive Leather and Leather-look Futon Covers

Author: Dan Noyes

Article: Futon covers are synonymous with comfort and a sense of elegance. With many people wanting livelier and more attractive rooms, inexpensive leather and leather-look futon covers are slowly gaining in popularity. Leather futon covers are now more popularly used to provide a touch of elegance blended with style. A leather futon cover protects the futon from dirt, dust particles, and moisture. These inexpensive futon covers, with a little creativity and diverse ideas, can change a dull and mundane room into a lively, enjoyable place to be. A leather futon cover can quickly help you enhance the aesthetics of your room.

Leather futon covers are the latest sensation as they instantly change the look of your room and your futon. Futon covers provide style that stays within a reasonable budget. People are now switching over to leather and leather look futon covers as they offer style and elegance at low prices. It is the ideal cover futon type for winter, as they provide respite from the cold, but they also prove to be cool in summer.

By seeing the sudden increase in the demand for leather futon covers, many companies have jumped into the market providing more and more attractive futon covers at very economical prices. Today, many companies cater to the diverse demands of customers by offering leather-look materials that do not sacrifice on quality but are made from various other materials. Customer demand has resulted in a wide array of quality futon covers available in various designs, colors, and costs. Leather-look futon covers generally offer the look and feel of genuine leather right down to their texture.

Made from premium and high class grades of leather or leather-look materials, these futon covers are able to withstand dirt and moisture. What makes these leather futon covers more popular is their durability while being easy to clean. Leather and leather look futon covers can be cleaned easily by simply wiping with a damp cloth. Such futon covers are the most cost effective way to change your room into a designer suite. Matching furniture and a matching leather futon cover gives an impressive look which can make anyone envy your aesthetic sense.

Summary: Inexpensive leather or leather-look futon covers provide an aesthetic enhancement to an otherwise mundane room. These futon covers come in exquisite designs and colors, thus enhancing the ambience of your room.

About the author: Dan Noyes is a well known author who writes for www.futoncoverusa.com

Embellish Your Garden Trees with Movement, Music, and Light

Author: Johann Erickson

Article: If you'd like to bring some whimsy and fun to your garden, consider adding wind chimes, birdhouses, or other ornaments to your trees. Items should be hung from sturdy branches with soft but durable cord or coated wire. Your trees will thank you kindly not to drive nails into their bark. Damaged bark can allow water to seep in and disease or deterioration to begin. Caring for your trees protects your investment.

<a href=""http://www.onlinediscountmart.com/wind-chimes-windchimes.ht ml"">Wind chimes</a> come in a variety of designs, materials, and colors. Choose a wind chime that is large enough not to get lost in the foliage, but that isn't so large it looks out of place. Be sure to test the sound of the wind chime because you will be listening to it whenever the wind blows and you want a sound that is pleasant to your ears. Tubular steel chimes have a melodious sound and are suitable for outdoors. Beads, small mirrors, and other decorative items added to chimes lend color and sparkle. Choose decorations that compliment your house and garden.

<a href=""http://www.onlinediscountmart.com/decorative-birdhouses.htm l"">Birdhouses</a> are popular ornaments that can also be functional. If you want birds to make their homes in your birdhouses, you'll want to find out what types of houses suit the birds you want to lure to your place. The size of the opening, for instance, appeals to certain birds. Smaller birds want small holes so that predator birds can't invade their homes. Some types of birds, such as purple martins, prefer birdhouses that are installed on tall poles rather than in trees and have many dwellings in one house rather than a single occupancy home.

Another consideration if you want your birdhouse to be occupied is the finish on it. Strong paint smells will send potential residents flying away. A painted birdhouse should be finished with nontoxic paint. An unfinished cedar birdhouse is a good choice and will invite birds to make themselves at home. Look for birdhouses at stores that supply birdseed. They often stock a variety of birdhouses, and you'll likely find one suitable for your potential tenants.

If you're interested in birdhouses strictly for decorative purposes, the options are unlimited. You can find handcrafted birdhouses decorated to look like old time general stores, post offices, or other buildings. Some are decorated with sparkles and spangles. Others are painted in funky color combinations or designed to mimic items such as bells, hats, or other fanciful things. The options are as limitless as the imagination. Arts and Craft shows, flea markets, and bazaars are all good places to find birdhouses that are unusual. And surprisingly, sometimes these fanciful houses are also functional.

If you hanker to make your own birdhouse, you can either build one or buy an unfinished one at an arts and crafts store. Let your imagination run wild and see what unusual residence you can create for your feathered friends.

Other ornaments that you can put in your trees for decoration include mobiles, whirligigs, and lanterns. Mobiles and whirligigs bring movement and color to the area, while lanterns can add a soft glow that is particularly appealing during parties.

Whatever ornaments you choose for your trees, they will look best if you have a theme or color scheme. For instance, choose items that are silver or reflective for a sparkling effect or have a rustic theme with birdhouses made from old barn wood or tin. Remember the design tip of using an odd number of items for pleasing results. Be sure to step back and view your arrangement as you design it. Making changes to your arrangement is fun and keeps it looking fresh. Don't be surprised when the neighbors stop by just to see what you've done next.

About the author: Johann Erickson is the owner of <a href=""http://www.onlinediscountmart.com"">Online Discount Mart</a> and <a href=""http://www.tvproducts4less.com"">TV Products 4 Less</a>.

Saving Energy By planting Nursery Stock and windbreaks

Author: William Hirst

Article: In the past week there has been an increasing interest in landscape design for energy conservation. Rising fuel costs can be offset by landscaping. The primary goal is to control wind and sun. In Pa. the first line of defence for energy savings is protection from the cold winter winds by the use of landscaping. Research shows that properly designed screens and buffers can reduce the heating cost of a typical residence by as much as 30 percent. Arborvitae can work to also help cut your heating costs by using them for a wind screen. Arborvitae For Winter Fuel Saving There have been studies that show that wind speeds around homes can be reduced by as much as 90%. The best design for windbreaks depends on the use and exact location of the site. However, in most of Pa. the prevailing winds are from the northeast, thus, the maximum protection should be concentrated in the north east. A single row of conifers with staggered spacings is the best for protection from both wind and blowing snow. The wind is deflected up and over the screen, creating a well protected zone. The area of maximum protection can extend outward several times the height of the trees. If space is at a premium, fewer plants will be helpful, but the use of conifers and other densely branched species is essential for maximum winter protection.arborvitae make an excellent choice for providing winter protection. Arborvitae are commonly used evergreens useful in urban areas where low maintenance and durability is needed. Many cultivars with forms such as being globed in shape, columnar, or narrow pyramidal, tend to be near buildings, doors, and walkways. Other forms which are larger are used for screens and buffers that are planted in rows. The form of arborvitae is small, medium, or large depending on the cultivar. Some reach 50', others only 3'. Even small Arborvitae can help breakup the wind and drifting snows of winter. Most prefer full sun to partial sun. Planting in dense shade conditions should be avoided. A moist, well drained, loamy soil in full sunlight are ideal conditions for growing healthy arborvitae. These plants will tolerate rocky, clay, urban conditions of heat drought and pollution. The most important pest we have is bagworms which must be controlled to prevent complete defoliation. Some cultivars have multiple leaders which also prove to be a detraction for the plant. Pruning out multiple leaders in some cultivars is a simple remeady. The ease in planting and maintaining this plant make it an ideal choice for planting around the house. Plant shrubs with wind direction in mind. Since south winds are generally warmer than northeast winds, it is considered sufficient to have moderate protection on the east and desirable to leave the south open or restricted to rows of shrubs and deciduous trees. More openness to the south allows solar gain in the winter and for summer ventilation house. The economic incentive of reduced heating costs is additional to known benefits of reduced snow clearing. While most homes have at least some naturally treed areas or planted screens protecting their yard, the full potential benefit from tree planting is far from being realized. Energy conservation is a growing concern. Current studies confirm what fuel oil dealers have known all along, homes with screens and buffers use considerably less fuel. The time to begin planning for an energy conscious future is now. You can see more about plants at Bill's web site http://www.seedlingrus.com

About the author: Grower of trees and plants for over 45 years. Auther gives tips on saving fuel by planting a windbreak.

Acid Loving Plants

Author: B Hirst

Article: Growing Acid Loving Plants

Growing azaleas, rhododendrons, blueberries, holly, pieris, heather, and other plants that love acidic and organisc soils.

One of my fond memories of being 12 was catching my first shad. Each spring the shad migrate up the Delaware River to end their life long journey to spawn. Their migration is like clockwork, arriving exactly on time, like the swallows of Capistrano each year. In many ways so are the flowers and buds on plants. I remember my shad and the picture of this trophy. I was standing next to a large azalea in full bloom. Each year I would see the blooms on that azalea and know that as they swelled so the shad were approaching. Thus I came to associate the blooms of azaleas with it's time to go fishing. How smart and lucky I was. For there are so many varieties and blooming times for azaleas plus some varieties have small second flushes, that I can now say with absolute certainty that, ""It's always time to go fishing"".

There are so many varieties of azaleas and rhododendrons that experts only estimate their approximate number. There are early bloommers and late season bloomers. Some with large flowers and some with small flowers. Some are scented. There is a spectrum full of colors and sizes. Some are evergreen and some decidious. Thus azaleas and rhododendrons are shrubs for all seasons. In winter, these plants stand out with large evergreen leaves and bring showy flowers in the spring. Throughout the summer and fall the leaves add pleasing green color to the landscape. The intense flowers of azaleas and rhododenrons make them a popular selection.

If you have difficulty telling an azalea from a rhododendron, stop worrying. Call them all rhododendrons and you will be correct. If you know how to grow a rhododendron, then you can use the same cultural principles in growing blueberries, holly, pieris, heather, and other plants that love acidic and organisc soils. Rhododendrons love mild humid climates. Site selection is important. Many people come to us and report that they have had little luck in planting rhododenrons and want to try again. Our suggestion is to first look at your enviremental conditions and determine if you should replant. Rhododendrons are found in nature predominatly on north to east slopes. Here there is less rapid temperature changes and the drying west and south winds are shielded by natural features. Always protect azaleas and rhododendrons from wind. Plant with barriers in mind. Barriers can be evergreen screens, or buildings or slopes. Evergreen screens can help highlight the blooms. Be mindfull that a corner of a building may not offer protection but actually funnel winds by the plants. Rhododendrons actually like filtered light better than shade. If your site is full shade consider a pruning of the overhead trees to allow better light penitration.

The soil that you plant Rhododendrens in should have good drainage. You can run a simple test by digging a six inch hole and filling it with water. If it is not drained in 4-5 hours you need to increase the drainage of the site. Rhododendrons have very small delicate roots. If the soil drains poorly there is probably to much clay. The roots can't penitrate heavy clays. I would suggest a raised bed or a drain tile to carry away the excess water.

It is difficult to improve poor soils to grow rhododendrons without creating other problems. Sometimes trees with surface roots rapidly take over soils that are improved and compete for nutrients. They, afterall have a head start on your new plants. It may make sense to raise up a bed a whole foot. This gives improved drainage and allows the new plants more competition free time in getting established. Make sure you have an acidic soil of 5 to 5.5. If you have a large pine tree rake up its needles and use them as both a weed barrier and a ph adjuster. There is no good substitute for quality organic materials being incorporated into your soil. Clay soils are especially enhanced by organics. Lots of ground pine bark, oak and pine leaf mulches and topsoil mixed well, works much better than peat. Peat will hold water preventing oxygen from filtering to the root zone. Peat can also hold moisture for long periods in the spring and winter. The area that you prepare should be prepared weeks before you plant. This allows the ph to change.

Most of the rhododendrons and azaleas that we sell are potted. These plants sould never be planted so that their stems are below what it was in the pot. Plantings should always be about 2"" above the surrounding soil. Water the plant well after planting. Native rhododendrons have very shallow surface roots and have natural mulch and organic debris covering the surfacve roots. This conserves moisture and minimizes winter injury. You want to mirror the natural conditions so using decomposed pine needles and oak leaves is the best mulch. A layer of two to four inches is ideal. Keep the layer of mulch away from the stem. The mulch should not be removed. It should be with the plant for all seasons. It is the plants winter blanket. It helps keep the plant from winter leaf scorch. If you want your beds to have designer colors such as red mulch black much, plastic fiber cloth, river pebbles ect., then plant some other plant, because these plants are delicate and conditions must be correct or you will have poor results. I don't recommend any fertilizing of the plants for beginners. If you must add fertilizers make sure it is for acid loving plants.In nature these plants do well with low nutrient levels. Their small surface roots can be easily be hurt by over application of fertilizers. I would use no more than 2 pounds of a 6-10-4 per 100 square feet, but organic matter that is covering the plant should be perfect. Do not fertilize after July 1. Fertilizing after this time may force growth durring the winter when the plants should be dormant. The mulch can also act a a natural weed barrier. As it decomposes add more. Fall is the optimum time to make sure you have enough mulch.

Following these recommendations will help you have success in raising these plants. See Bill's web site at http://www.seedlingsrus.com

About the author: Long time farmer tells secrets to growing Rhodies.

River Birch Trees

Author: B Hirst

Article: River Birch Trees When I was in the 8th grade I would go fishing along the Delaware River at night. I would camp along the river bank and fish into the wee hours of the night. I am always drifting back to those childhood memories when I pass a river birch tree that is highlighted by lights at night. The nightime interest that this tree expresses can help capture moments for you. The main feature of this medium sized spreading tree is its colorful peeling bark. This builds up on the stem and main branches in soft curling layers of orange, pink, grey and brown. Another great advantage of this species is its tolerance of wet soil and seasonal flooding making it an ideal pond or riverbank tree. Specimens often develop multiple stems which increases the attractiveness its shaggy bark. As an ornamental tree it also has bright green, toothed leaves and long yellow clusters of catkins in early spring. It will have a spreading root system that will check erosion. It is hardy and will seldom blow down. The plant is native to the eastern states from Massachusetts to Florida. The range continues along the Gulf of Mexico and into Texas.

If you have had trouble planting a tree the River Birch is a choice that is easy to transplant. They are adaptable and grow fast. These trees do not seem to be bothered by the Bronzed Birch Borer which has killed off many White Birches used in urban landscapes.

Of all the trees that I grow on our nursery, )see http://www.seedlingsrus.com ) the River Birch is my favorite.

About the author: River Birch Trees bring back my childhood memories

Sunday, February 26, 2006

Deer Damage to Nursery Stock

Author: B Hirst

Article: Resistance of Seedlings and Nursery Stock to Deer Damage

Damage to seedlings by deer will increase as it has over the past 20 years.We don't believe that there are any 100 per cent effective methods to stop deer damage except 10' high woven wire fences are that to costly for most small growers. Human populations moving to rural areas will continue. Loss of huntable land will increase as will deer populations. Deer having multiple births coupled with increasing gun regulation is likly to continue. There are few natural controls for deer populations. Opening your land to hunting is an effective practice for lowering deer populations. Since deer are nocturnal, hunting may not be totally effective. This means that you must have an integrated pest management plan. This plan should include the following: popualtion management(hunting), repellants, selecting resistant plants, fencing, knowledge of deer habits for integrating your management plan.

Deer Feeding Habits

Deer feeding will occur on fertilized and unfertilize plants. Most browsing of seedlings will occur at night. By planting less-preferred seedlings in unprotected areas and surrounding preferred seedlings by less-preferred seedlings, deer damage is lessened. Susceptible plants shoud be fenced or planted near occupied structures. Backyard dogs are effective in keeping deer away.Your knowledge of deer feeding habits should be your first line of defence. A plan based on this knowledge will provide seedlings growers with less expensive alternatives to dangerous chemiacls repellants and hard to maintain fences and physical barriers. Deer are creatures of habit. Some deer in certain areas will eat holly and white pines, while deer in other areas won't. Therefore plant preference lists are only rough guides to deer damage susceptibility. In general browsing damage to seedlings will be highest when snow or extreme weather reduces food availability. Succulent young growth is an attractive deer attraction in the spring time. When food is in short supply deer will feed on less desireable plants. Always try and reduce deer herds. We once had a deer hunt where hunters paid 100 dollars each to a police gun fund for the control of deer on our nursery that is located next to Peace Valley Park. For weeks the control worked and deer damage was controlled.

Seedlings and Liners We Recommend

Boxwoods Red Osier Dogwood Russian Olive Rose of Sharon Hollies Leucothoe River Birch Trees Japanese Cedars Blue Spruce trees Austrin Pine Barberries Andromeda

You can see other articles by Bill Hirst at the following web site http://www.seedlingsrus.com

About the author: Long time grower of trees and plants writes about deer damage to nursery stock and other topics related to home improvement.

Winter Gardening Tips

Author: B Hirst

Article: Winter Gardening Tips

Winter can be a bleak hard time of the year for the grower of nursery stock. The days are short and the nights are long. Yet growing plants is a year round activity that does require the grower to be performings tasks.

Watering plants can be be on your list. The ground may not be frozen and plants still use water. If the ground is not frozen you can still water if the ground will accept the water. Most plants are dormant so the amount of watering is not as high as in the hotter seasons. Evergreens lose water through their needles in the winter. So if one keeps watering as long as possible into the winter, seedlings and plants will suffer less stress. Winter drying of evergreens is a major stress factor in growing seedlings and potted stock.

Snow and ice on your seedlings and liners can be problematic. Starting with a more developed plant is the best solution to this problem. Tall thin seedlings that have not been root pruned and transplanted are not as sturdy a plant. They tend to bend under snow loads and may require staking later to train them strait. If your seedlings have a light amount of snow covering them you may ease the snow burden by lightly sweeping the snow with a broom. Don't shake them, they are like babies ... they get shaken baby syndrome. If snow or ice is frozen to the branches, allow it to melt rather than attempting to correct. If any branches are broken, you probably don't need to do anything unless there is a split in the trunk. If the breakage of the plant is sever, the seedling or liner shoud be discarded. The labor to correct is not worth the value of the plant. Also a poor quality seedling will probably be a poor quality mature plant. There is a market for such plants however, we have had many customers who want, "" Charly Brown Trees"" or stunted trees for unusual customer needs.

Warm spells in the winter occur. Suddenly, there can be days of warmer temperatures. This should not be a problem. If you have covering on or over the plants, you may need to ventilate. We normally open the doors to our greenhoses and this is usually all that is necessary. Cold frame temps may rise so ventilation will be helpful. Close up as nightfall arrives as the temperature will fall. Note that when sunlight intensity is high, plant tissues become active. Water loss at this time can't be replaced if the root balls are frozen. This is called plant desiccation. Also if there many freeze-thaw cycles, the crown of the plant will be heaved up exposing the roots. Root systems have a lower tolerance to temperature extremes and can killed by freezing low temperatures.A common way to prevent desiccation is to screen plants in exposed areas with Burlap .

Varmit control is important in the winter. Mice and rabbits feed constantly . Their teeth grow constantly and they love to chew on tender plants. We spread rat and mice bait about every two to threes weeks as long as we see it being consumed. Try and place the baits in a place where its easy to moniter, dry, and accessable only to the varmits. When the snow gets deep mice will feed up higher on the plants. They don't like to dig in the snow for food. They take the easy to reach food first. Thus tracks in the snow are an important sign to watch for. Mouse damage is usually not correctable. You may not see root feeding damage to stock till spring, so over baiting is the best solution. Care should be taken that the baits are only available to the target varmit.

Ordering seedlings early in the winter is your best way to assure a supply. We can ship many of our seedlings durring the winter but we recommend that you have them shipped after the winter weather is over. This will vary according to your location. If you get the seedlings and you can't plant them upon arrival, keep them in a cool place in your house or barn. Your basement may be an ideal place. Keep the roots from freezing. It will be hard to get your order filled in April because growers do sell out. What we dont sell, we line out for our nursery, Highland Hill Farm. We sell all sizes of plants from seedlings to large caliper trees. We also have our free use planters for you to use when you buy seedlings and liners from us. You can see more articles by Bill Hirst at http://seedlingsrus.com/Arborvitae.html http://seedlingsrus.com/FreeFencing.html http://seedlingsrus.com/Winter http://zone5trees.com/Hedges http://zone5trees.com/PlantingInstructions.html http://zone5trees.com/ProfitsGrowingTrees.html http://seedlingsrus.com/GrowingRhodies.html

About the author: Long time plant grower gives winter gardening tips

My Story on starting out in buying properties for growing plants

Author: B Hirst

Article: Bill's Life and his Lessons Learned and Opinions, Part III

When I was twelve years old, I had bought and sold many shares of stock on the NYSE. I was a motor mouth even then. I always was eager to talk to anyone who liked to invest and discuss stock picks. One of my fathers friends John was such a person. John only had a 3rd grade education. His mother was a prostitute and his first job was collecting and selling leaches to whores in Trenton to be used to remove hickies on their...Well, you got the picture?

John could hardly speak, he studderd so bad that it was a labor to talk to him. But John was no dummy. He had gone on to become a noted designer of transformers and had built up a large company. He lived on a large estate that overlooked a huge pond which to a twelve year old was an eye opener. What ever John would say or do had to be noteworthy.

John would also talk of the lastest electronic gadgets, hottest stock picks, Trees, hunting stories, and about real estate. Just what I was interest in. One day John came to our house. He was so excited that he could hardly talk to us. He handed me a book and said,"" Re...re...re..re...re...read this. ""It was a book on stock options. The book detailed about puts and calls and how powerful they are in investing. At the time there were few options offered. I read this book. I reread this book over and over. I was amazed at how powerful an option could be. I did not buy or sell any as I did not have the funds to risk on them but I said to myself , ""This is something that I am going to do some day.""

Most options on stocks or commodities expire as worthless. Some estimates are that 80% expire as worthless. Not a very good track record for an investor. Now for every option buyer there is a seller. Someone is making money, not just the brokers. Option buyers aquire what can be called leverage. An occasional winner can make up for a bunch of losers. The option sellers don't necessarly lose unless they trade options naked, ( they don't own the underlining security) they just don't have potential gains that they would have had.

Options clearly define an investors loss liabilities. When you buy an option it defines the price of the asset, the time you have to excerise the option, and the capital that you risk. If the value of theoption cotract goes down the most you lose is your inital investment.

There are two basic options, a put and a call. A call allows the buyer of the option to buy the asset a established price for an established peroid of time. A put allows the buyer to force the right to force the seller to buy the asset at and establihed price for an established peroid of time.

What I decided to do when I purchased real estate is to acquire real estate options for farms which had long term contracts. I sought contacts that went out 5-10 years. If I could put together a contract that would run long enough, the rising real estate market would make the contract price a bargain price in afew years. I would offer yearly option renewal payments to the sellers. I made those payments applicable to the purchase price so as time flies the property becomes cheaper.

Now I know that your thinking that this can't work. I know it does for I have done many of these contracts. Most people who have sold me these contracts want just what this contract offers. They can remain on their property and have the option payment which suppliments their income. They just don't own any appreciation in the property which they would not have if they sold it. There are also great tax reasons for selling an option. When an option is written it is considered an opening transaction. Taxes are assesed on completed transactions. If a option is not closed revenue is generally not taxed. (see your investment advisor and make sure the contract is properly formed.)

Once this contract is in place one could lease the fields from the owners. This could be known as a lease purchase contract. Now you have ground on which you can plant trees. In many instances I have aquired land this way for less than the cost of the taxes on a yearly cash flow basis.

You can see Bill's web sit at http://www.seedlingsrus.com

About the author: Grower and owner of over 20 farms and ranches details how he got started growing trees plants and shrubs

Planting instructions for Nursery stock

Author: B Hirst

Article:

All people handling seedlings and small trees need to help with the life support of your plants. Seedlings are like fish out of water and need care which is often overlooked between the time the seedlings are lifted and transplanted. Improper care means higher mortality. Do not try and reinvent the wheel. You must protect seedling from moisture and temperature extremes, as well as physical damage. Seedlings are living and should be handled carefully. For a higher survival rate, treat trees carefully and plant them immediately. I like to have a backup plan for planting if the weather turns bad. I will sometimes switch from lining out the seedlings to potting them up if I realize that the soil conditions will not be right for an extended lenght of time. If planting must be delayed a few days, keep the plants in a cold, protected place with air circulation between the trees. Keep the trees out of the rain and wind. To check if the trees need water, feel the media at the roots.. If it isn't damp, water the trees and allow the excess water to drain. In cool, damp weather, the biggest threat to these trees is from mold. Try to keep out of soil seedlings moist by either restricting water loss with a water vapor barrier or by wetting the roots at regular intervals. While handling or planting try to reduce temperature and air movement around the seedlings. Windy days can dry out seedlings so consider waiting for calmer weather. Once your soil conditions are correct OUR FREE USE PLANTERS will make planting a snap so its will be worth waiting for good planting conditions.

HOW TO PLANT

Ideal planting days are cool and cloudy with little or no wind. If possible, avoid planting on warm, windy days. The soil should be moist not wet. Care in planting is more important than speed. Make sure the roots are never allowed to become dry. Bare root seedlings should be carried in a waterproof bag or bucket with plenty of moist material packed around the roots to keep them damp. Ideally, bare root boxes should be kept refrigerated or packed in ice or snow. Don't freeze the trees. Competition from weeds, grass, brush or other trees is very detrimental to survival and growth of seedlings. Choose areas free from this competition or clear at least a three-foot square bare spot before planting. Seedlings should not be planted under the crown of existing trees, or closer than 6 feet to existing brush. Avoid areas near walnut trees. Brush aside loose organic material such as leaves, grass, etc., from the planting spot to expose mineral soil. If organic matter gets into the planting hole, it can decompose and leave air spaces. Roots will dry out when they grow into these spaces. Open up the hole, making sure the hole is deep enough for the roots to be fully extended. If roots are curled or bunched up, the tree will not be able to take up water correctly, will often weaken and die, or may blow down later due to poor root structure. Take a tree out of your planting bag or bucket only after a hole is ready. When exposed, the fine roots can dry out in as little as 30 seconds. Seedling shoots and roots lose water to air, roots require more protecting.Unlike leaves ,they do not have stomata (closeable openings on the surface of the leaves) or any waxy coatings to help reduce water loss. If the roots apear dry they are probably dead. Now I know you are thinking,""I will place them in a buckect of water and store them there until planting"". This will not work. Submerge plants for no longer that a couple of minutes. Placing them in water cuts them off from oxygen. Remember to remove the container before planting a containerized tree. A helpful hint to all those new gardeners just starting is to remember to always plant green side up. Hold the seedling in place in the hole, making sure the roots are straight, fully extended and that the tree is neither too shallow or too deep in the hole. Fill hole, allowing soil to fall in around the roots. Tamp with hands or with your heel. Don't crush the roots by jumping up and down around the seedling like there is a snake curled up around the seedling. It is delicate. Fill with more soil, if necessary, and tamp. Tamping is important. If soil is not firmly packed around the roots, there will be air pockets that can dry out the roots, and the seedlings may be weakly anchored. It is far easier to plant the tree strait up then have the tree leaning and have to adjust the tree later. (Addition of fertilizer and plant vitamins at the time of planting is not generally necessary.) Take your time in planting. Proper spacing will help you grow a more valuable crop. I have tried to get more production from a limited area by over planting and then thinning, but I always have had trouble in harvesting .... digging is slower and poor quality usually results for a portion of the crop. Avoid these tree planting errors:

Tangled roots Planting too shallow Planting too deep Air pockets Turned up roots (this is called J rooting) Planting trees that are not tolerant of wet soils in poorly drained areas Planting over rocks, septic tanks and leach fields, on sand mounds

CARE OF TREES FOLLOWING PLANTING Check periodically to be sure that brush, grass and other vegetation is kept under control by mowing, mulching, spraying or a combination of these treatments. Always obtain advice from a licensed pest control advisor before using chemicals. You ag extension agency may offer courses in application of chemicals. Monitoring the appearance of your trees will help you to detect signs of insects, diseases or other problems. Apperances also help sell your product. Look for foliage turning yellow, new foliage drooping or other signs of poor health. It is easier to take successful corrective action if the problem is detected early.

Over watering is a common problem in irrigated plantations. You probably won't need to water more frequently than every 7-10 days. Give your trees a thorough, deep soak and then let the soil dry out before the next watering. This encourages the roots to grow down in search of water. Frequent, shallow watering encourages root growth near the surface and the trees are more dependent on irrigation and are less windfirm. Animals can be a major cause of damage to young trees. Porcupines, gophers, mice, rabbits, deer and cattle are the most frequent source of damage. In many states you may have to call your game commission and get their recomendations on legal methods to protect your crop. In our state, you can get help from the Pa. Game Commission to kill deer that are a threat to your seedlings or obtain a free fence to keep deer away from your seedlings. Over the years we have lost more trees to mice than any other animal. Put rat baits out on a regular basis. Over the years we have lost more seedlings and plants to mice than any other culprit including deer and rabbitts combined. You an see more articles about the care of trees plants and nursery stock at our web site http://www.seedlingsrus.com and http://www.highlandhillfarm.com

About the author: Grower of tres plants and shrubs for 45 years in Doylestown Pa.

A Hobby Greenhouse Will Get You Growing!

Author: Antonio Teixeira

Article: For people who would like to do more gardening but live in a short growing season area, a hobby greenhouse is the answer. A hobby greenhouse is not large enough to produce vegetables or flowers on a commercial basis. It will, however, give you a place for a tomato plant or two and some fresh greens even if you live in the northern regions. Greenhouse enthusiasts even have their own association, called the Hobby Greenhouse Association, which publishes a quarterly magazine. The organization also sponsers events and helps individuals connect to get help with the aspect of gardening that they are interested in, whether it's growing cacti or saving seeds.

If you are in the market for a hobby greenhouse, there are several types on the market. The smallest type is not large enough to walk into and must be accessed from the outside. It resembles an old-fashioned phone booth made all of glass and outfitted with shelves. This type is designed to fit as many plants as possible in as small a place as possible. The shelves are made of glass to allow as much light as possible to reach plants on the lower shelves. Another inexpensive version of this sort of hobby greenhouse is shelving covered with a zippered tent of clear plastic. This sort of arrangement is great for the small-scale hobby gardener wanting a place to keep her flowers or houseplant starts.

There are a variety of designs of hobby greenhouse that are large enough to walk into but made entirely of clear glass or plastic. They are often about the same size as a small storage building. Some independent builders have started making these to sell locally. Among national brands, one of the nicest is called the ""Solar Prism."" It is called this because of it's unique construction. This hobby greenhouse is made of a single piece of durable clear plastic which is designed to work like tiny prisms side by side. They trap the rays of the sun and shoot them back into the greenhouse at all angles. For this reason, these little greenhouses are said to glow when the weather is cloudy.

Better hobby greenhouses are equipped with automatic sensors that open vents which allow ventilation and keep the interior temperatures from getting too high. These are a great labor saver, but can get expensive. Another benefit sometimes found in nicer greenhouses is a built in irrigation or misting system. Members of the Hobby Greenhouse Association, or HGA, have invented many interesting designs of greenhouses.

If gardening is your hobby, greenhouse growing will interest you. With a greenhouse, you can have the earliest tomatoes and salad greens all year. You can also start seedlings for the main garden early in the spring when outdoor temperatures would kill them. A hobby greenhouse can be a good investment.

For more information about gardening, visit: http://flowergardeningtips.info

About the author: Antonio Teixeira is a self employed gardener since 1986 with experience in building gardens, landscapes and automatic irrigation. You can find more information about gardening, landscapes, flowers, bulbs, bonsai and anything related with gardens and landscaping at http://flowergardeningtips.info

Saturday, February 25, 2006

Japanese Barberry ..... A Multi Use Plant

Author: Bill hirst

Article: Japanese Barberry (Berberis thunbergii)

DESCRIPTION: Japanese barberry is a compact, shrub with sharp spines, that commonly grows from two to three feet tall. Its roots are shallow and tough. The smooth-edged leaves range from oval to spatulate in shape and are clustered in tight bunches close to the branches of the plant. There are yellow flowers which bloom in May and are about one third of an inch wide, solitary or in small clusters of 2-4 blossoms. The bright-red fruits mature in mid-summer on the bush and remain into autumn and the winter. The berries are small and found singly or in clusters. We sell several cultivars of this species as ornamentals. These plants have good deer resistance. Small thorns act as an invisable barrier to deer. Once they encounter this plant, they nearly have to starve to be found eating them.

DISTRIBUTION AND HABITAT: All barberries prefers well-drained soils, although it has been found in wet soils. Barberies are typically found in locations of partial sunlight such as a woodland's edge. Barberies can survive well under the shade of an oak tree canopy. It is also found along roadsides, fences, old fields, and open woods. These plants can and do escape and are invasive.

Japanese barberry was introduced from Japan. It is commonly planted for ornamental value (its scarlet fruit and autumnal foliage make it an attractive hedge), as well as for wildlife and erosion control. It easily naturalizes because its fruit is often eaten by birds, which subsequently disperse the seeds. The plant reproduces by seed and creeping roots. Wildlife is known to eat the seeds and distribute barberies. Branches can root freely when they touch the ground or get covered by leaveswhich allows single plants to become quite large.

If your landscape is dominated by a sea of green plants, barberries will add striking color options. Besides being tough and deer resistant, they are easy to transplant. Barberries have much to offer. Barberries are drought resistant, pest free,and come in many striking colors. Barberries make excellent barrier plants. Plant next to windows to keep Peeping Toms away. There are over 20 varieties.

Plant all barberries in partial shade to full sun. A couple of inches of compost or well aged bark mulch accompanied by 1-2 pounds of a 5-10-5 fertilizer per 100 square feet of garden area is recomended. Incorporate it it in the soil deeply.

Since some types of barberries can grow to 6', allow ample space for the plants. We suggest 3' spacings for the plants. Most barberries grow the same width as height. Make the whole at least twice the size of the root ball. Tamp the soil lightly and water well after planting. You may have to refill more dirt to the plant as it settles. Mulch with no more than 1 inch of organic mulch.

The first month and the first year are critical to surviving. Most barberries die because of dehydration on transplanting. Moisted well on tranplanting to encourage deep rooting. Don't allow the plants to dry out durring this year. Moisture is critical during the first year, especially in years like the past two. Water deeply when required, training the roots to go deep. Feed four weeks after transplanting using a slow-released fertilizer, like an 8-8-8 or 12-6-6 at 1 pound per 100 square feet of bed space. You can see info and articles about plants at Bill web site http://www.seedlingsrus.com

About the author: Bill has been growing plants for over 45 years and writes about nursery stock, trees, and plants. His web sites include http://www.highlandhillfarm.com http://www.seedlingsrus.com and http://www.zone5trees.com Bill owns and operates 23 farms and ranches across the U.S.

The Answer Lies In The Soil

Author: Edward Rose

Article: If ever there was a truism, this is the truism of all truisms. I have gardened on a variety of soils including soot, gravel, clay, sand and loam. Without a doubt, loam is the best for high production tasty vegetable and fruit. The question is, can you make soot, gravel, clay & sand more like loam and can you make loam better? The answer is undoubtedly YES and the METHOD is ADD COMPOST.

Sometimes you may be able to get well rotted horse manure from a nearby stable. I was once lucky enough to get ten cubic yards of four plus year old horse dung and rotted straw. It was as black as the Ace of Spades and very crumbly. I dug it all into a cleared sandy border which I then planted up. The plants absolutely bombed away. Unfortunately I did not keep up the treatment and each year the plants became weaker as the goodness was leached away.

You can become independent of luck and good fortune and make your own compost. You can then regularly add your own ""top up"" to your soil, whatever type it is.

The first source of compost material is your own garden. Grass cuttings, annual weeds, prunings, autumn leaves can all be collected & recycled. Pernicious weeds should be set to one side and burned.

The second source is your kitchen & home. Vegetable waste, old flowers (cut & potted) and shredded news papers can all help.

But most important of all is METHOD. It has taken me thirty (untutored) years to discover these ""secrets"".

The first requirement is to control your MIX of potential compost material between Green & Brown. How many of us have piled grass clippings in a heap to be encouraged by early heat and composting activity only to end with a half rotted & layered sludge? You need to aim for a mix of materials with about 1/5th being Green and 4/5ths Brown.

Green/ Nitrogen

Grass Cuttings Kitchen Waste Farm Manure

Brown/Carbon

Dead Leaves Straw/Wood shavings Wood Ash/ Newsprint

I save my leaves in plastic bags to feed into my compost over the following year.

Secondly you need MOISTURE. Your pile should be neither too wet nor too dry. Brown material is often dry and needs to be watered in after mixing. If you take a handful of your mix and squeeze it you want it to ball in your hand without a runoff of water and not being flaky. In rainy periods it can pay to cover your compost to stop it getting sodden

Thirdly you need AERATION. Oxygen is essential as composting is a burning process. You need to turn your heap on a regular basis to ensure this happens. It is possible to achieve temperatures as high as 70 degrees centigrade and 60 degrees should be a minimum peak norm. Having two adjacent bins makes this easier as you turn one into the other. It is also useful exercise for your heart!

Fourthly control particle SIZE. Breaking up, cutting down, shredding the potential compost is very helpful. The greater the wounding and the smaller the particle size, the greater the surface area and the quicker the rotting.

Finally you need VOLUME. The more the merrier. Given the above four steps you will find that 2 cubic yards rots better than 1, 3 cubic yards better than 2 and so on.

So get out there, get on with it and GOOD COMPOSTING.

About the author: Edward Rose writes for <a href=""http://www.gardenersessentials.co.uk"">Gardeners Essentials</a>, a popular website offering gardening advice, information and resources.

Boost Yield by Adding CO2 to Your Hydroponic Garden

Author: Katherine Keleher

Article: Carbon dioxide (CO2) is required by crops to execute the photosynthesis process. Throughout photosynthesis, CO2 is mixed with water, nutrients, and light from the sun (or hydroponic garden light) to produce important sugars that provide the plant's light.

Why should you add CO2 to your hydroponic garden?

Low carbon dioxide (CO2) measures will limit your plant's capacity to create energy through photosynthesis. Crops can process a great deal more CO2 than is normally found in the surroundings. One of the best ways to boost growth is to enhance the quantity of CO2 available to your crops with a CO2 system in your hydroponic garden.

How to increase your hydroponic garden's carbon dioxide levels

Choosing a CO2 injector is the least pricy way to add CO2 to your hydroponic system's climate. These commonly consist of a release, regulator, and a gauge to determine the amount of CO2 being inserted into the air. Some of the more involved carbon dioxide injectors also include a timer to run the scheduling of the CO2 discharge. CO2 refills are usually distributed independently and can be found at medical or eatery supply shops.

If you want to use your hydroponic garden for a lengthy time or for a number of crops, it may be cheaper to invest in a long-term CO2 production solution. Carbon dioxide generators manufacture carbon dioxide through the heating of propane, natural gas, or any other carbon-based fuel base. They are appreciably more costly than the basic CO2 injector system, but you will eliminate the expense and effort of obtaining CO2 refills. Over a lengthy enough period of time, the investment in CO2 production ends up to be more economical than purchasing an injector and many refills.

For large-scale nurserymen (or those with extra funds to tinker around with), a CO2 gauge with regulator can mechanically maintain your hydroponic setup's carbon dioxide levels at a selected point. These arrangements can be very pricy, 100s to thousands of dollars, but are a fine extra if you can find the money for it. There is normally an automatic CO2 dial connected to a regulator that is then associated to a CO2 producer to guarantee that the system continually is set at the user's fixed CO2 amount. Some dials are marketed separately and are compatible with many varieties of regulators, allowing greater versatility when planning your system.

Whichever system is best for you, it is important to always consider your carbon dioxide system when initially desiging your hydroponic garden. Many gardeners will overlook this one part of their system and reduce their crop's production before a single seed is even sprouted. Remember, a lack of any key facet required for photosynthesis will limit the plant's development to the point of that deficit. If any one needed aspect is omitted, the full growing process will be impacted.

About the author: Visit http://www.indoor-gardening-guide.com for more information on <a href=""http://www.indoor-gardening-guide.com/indoor-hydroponic-sys tems.html"">indoor hydroponic systems.</a> Check out our garden grow light comparisons, nutrient information, and original indoor gardening articles not distributed anywhere else.

Mrs Stone of Coon Path, Lambertville N.J.

Author: B hirst

Article: Spicebush (Lindera benzoin)

A deciduous shrub in the Laurel Family (Lauraceae)

Mrs Stone lived on a hillside south of Lambertville N.J. on a one lane road called Coon Path. It was while working for her as a teenager that I first found a Spicebush also known as Lindera Benzoin. Usually found as an understory multi-stemmed shrub, it had found its home on her property in a common location for this native plant, as an under story shrub to a wet woodlands site, and right on top of her drip spring that fed into a cistern that supplied her house with water. One of my regular tasks for her was to cut it back and keep the intake lines to the cistern open. Being a vigorous grower in these conditions, I got to see this plant at all times of the year as I maintained this cistern. In the spring it was early to bloom sometimes beginning in January. One year there was a warm spell in late January and I had to open up the springs intake line. I was suprised to find that this plant had started to bloom. Silly me, I thought plants only bloomed in the spring. Whenever I would cut, chop, or work on this plant, it would emit a pleasant spicy fragrance. In late summer and early fall this spice bush would have a display of bright red fruits. I don't recall it suffering deer damage but its fruits were eaten by wildlife in short order. Its foliage was a glossy dark green which made it standout in the dense shade. There are few woody plants that thrive under these dense canopy conditions. I found out how easy it is to propagate because as long as when I would cut it back and keep it moist, in a shaded location, this plant could root and continue to grow. (It has small fibrous roots so when transplanting give this plant ample water and it will survive.) The plant near the Stone's spring was full grown. It was 12 high and 15 feet wide. The Spicebush is an adaptable plant. It will grow in full sun and drier locations. In drier locations it may have some tip dieback, but it will be denser and have better flower and seed production. This bush has both male and female plants. If you get winter die back, don't worry. Cut out the effected branches and wait for basal sprouts to regenerate since there are no major pests to be concerned with in growing this plant. You can see more articles on plants at my web site http://www.seedlingsrus.com

About the author: True story of how I can to know the plant called Spice Bush

The American Cranberry Bush

Author: B Hirst

Article: American Cranberrybush (Viburnum trilobum) A deciduous shrub from the Honeysuckle Family (Caprifoliaceae), American Cranberrybush is commonly found throughout the northern tier of states in the United States. In these locations, it is a resident of open, wet woodlands and beside streams and some other bodies of water. I plant it in wet clay soils that are hard to use in growing other plants. It has an outer row of showy, sterile flowers resembling Hydrangeas. The flowers have a slight musty odor to me but are not offensive. Also known as Highbush Cranberry ( because of its bright red fruits that are clusted), this shrub has strong stems and thick branches, and may reach 12 feet tall by 12 feet wide when found in the open, with an arching growth habit at maturity that leaves the center of the plant devoid of branches. This shrub can be cut back hard and recovers quickly. We cut our specimen plant every 3-4 years and cut them back hard. We have sometimes used chainsaw to do the pruning quickly New landscape cultivars of this species have a much more compact and dense growth habit. As a member of the Honeysuckle Family, it is related to the Honeysuckles, Elderberries, Weigelas, and the many other Viburnums. Viburnums have been cultivated by man for thousands of years and this particular variety is my favorite for fast growing and easy to cultivate plants. If you have had trouble growing other plants in your landscape, this is a plant that will not fail for you. Planting Requirements - American Cranberrybush prefers moist to wet soils of rich or average composition, and of acidic pH. However, it tolerates dry soils of acidic, neutral, or alkaline pH reasonably well. It loves full sun to partial sun, and performs well in partial shade to full shade, although its growth habit will be much more sparce. It habitat range is found in zones 2 to 7. We always have in stock a large selection of this viburnum. Our availibility in sizes ranges from seedlings and liners to 4-5' shrubs B&B ready to pickup. Most buyers like a multi stemmed plant that is 4' in height. You can see pictures of these plants at our web site

http://seedlingsrus.com/AmericanCranberry.html

About the author: Grower of trees plants ans shrubs for 45 years in Doylestown Pa.

Friday, February 24, 2006

Getting a goldfish Pond

Author: William Berg

Article: Goldfish ponds are a beautiful addition to any garden and a stunning focal point. Goldfish ponds have been admired in Asia for centuries, especially in China and Japan. Today, you will find goldfish ponds all over the world, including Europe and North America. Since the Goldfish hails from a wild carp that can live in cold water, the Goldfish will survive outdoors during the winter even in colder parts of the world. In some regions it is however advisable to house your fish indoors during the roughest months since it can suffocate in a pond if the ice freezes across the entire surface.

Goldfish can be kept in ponds as well as in aboveground pools. It is recommended to plant your pond/pool since goldfish will feel much safer in a planted environment. It will also be able to hide among the plants in order to avoid predators. A lot of animals like to chase and eat goldfish, including cats, birds and raccoons. Sometimes plants are not enough to guard your fish and you will be forced to cover the pond with netting during the night. In an above ground pool with straight sides, the predators will be unable to wade in and must instead perch themselves at the edge of the pool when looking for prey. This will usually be noticed by your Goldfish and it can seek shelter deep down in the pool.

A planted goldfish pond is easier to maintain since the plants will aid you in keeping up the water quality. Live plants can use organic compounds excreted by fish as nutrition. This means that the organic waste will be absorbed by the plant instead of staying in the water and polluting it. Live plants will also inhibit algae growth since plants and algae compete for the same nutrients. If you still experience excess algae growth, you might be feeding your Goldfish too much. If you feed your fish a lot of food, they will subsequently produce a lot of waste and there will be plenty of nutrients for plants as well as algae in the water. Some algae are a natural part of any pond or aquarium, but excessive algae growth should be counteracted since it is unhealthy for the fish. Keep in mind that if you use a chemical to kill the algae, or if an algaecide is involuntary introduced to the pond, the dead and decaying algae will use up a lot of oxygen and your Goldfish might suffocate and die. Using natural methods to combat algae, such as plants, is therefore recommended.

When you have filled your Goldfish pond you should treat the water with a water conditioner if you use tap water containing chlorine and/or ammonia to fill your pond. Check that the water temperature in the pond is at least 60 o F before you add any fish. A common beginner mistake is to add all the Goldfish simultaneously to their new home. This will cause a rapid change in water quality since the bacterial colonies that inhabit the pond are too small to process the sudden increase in organic waste. Instead, you should ideally add one or two fish and allow the bacterial colonies to grow larger before you add any new fish. This will naturally also depend on the size of your pond and if you are using any type of filtration. In a large pond, excess waste will be dilute by a very large amount of water and therefore less likely to reach concentrations high enough to harm you fish. Good filtration will also help removing organic waste and other toxins from the water.

So, how much Goldfish can I fill my pond with? As a rule of thumb, one Goldfish per 30 gallons is recommended, but this is naturally a very imprecise ratio. As mentioned earlier, the water quality is one of the limiting factors. Plenty of water, developed bacterial colonies and good filtration will make it possible for you to house a larger number of Goldfish. There are three basic types of filtration: biological, mechanical and chemical. Biological filtration will be taken care of by the mentioned bacterial colonies. A mechanical filter will filter the water through some form of filtering media where larger debris will get caught. The most common form of chemical filtration is the addition of carbon to the mechanical filter, where the carbon will bind various types of toxins. Another important factor to keep in mind when you decide how much fish you wish to add to your pond is aeration. Fish require air to breath and will suffocate in a poorly aerated pond, especially if decaying plant matter consumes a lot of the dissolved oxygen. In an open pond, there will however be a considerable gas exchange between the water and the surrounding air. The larger the surface area of your pond, the more oxygen will be brought to the water. A large surface area will also make it easier for the water to release carbon dioxide. Plants in the pond will also produce oxygen and consume carbon dioxide. In some ponds, this will however not be enough and if you want to be able to house a large number of Goldfish some type of aeration is recommended.

About the author: More information about <a href=""http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/universal-id51.html""> garden ponds</a> and different <a href=""http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/universal-viewid189.html"">t ypes of goldfish </a> to keep in your pond.

Trades and Barter are My Favorites

Author: B Hirst

Article: I once put an add in the paper that said, ""If it free its for me"". I had to stop the add because I collected so much stuff. Adds do work. The problem with this add was it was not specific enough to target what I was looking for. Over time and years I then started to swap and barter the free stuff that I got for things I really wanted. I had hundreds of broken lawn mowers and hundreds of gallons of old unwanted paint. I had enough paint to dip a house if needed. Disposal now became an issue. Thus I came up with the idea of trading and barter. Now I did not invent this wheel but I had enough of them that it appeared I might have. So barter has become a means of swapping and exchanging my surpluses for other peoples surpluses. Since I am in the nursery bussiness I also have plants that are surplus. I may plant 1000 trees expecting to need 1000 and find that I have 500 more than what I need. So offering these trees on the web for Barter has an effective means to move dormant inventory. Besides this is a great way to meet new customers. When they have surpluses and I can move their dormant stock, we both win. Here is a sample add that I run on my web site seedlingsrus.com : ***************************************************************** ***** Trades Wanted

We are always looking to trade nursery stock and seedlings for your surplus. Email us with your surplus materials. We may be able to make trades.

Construction materials and equiptment Plumbing supplies Hunting and fishing gear and items Hand tools Farm implements Farm supplies Fencing materials Palletizied stone Household items Livestock

Sometimes people take me up on my offers to trade trees and shrubs for their products. One such person is Ralph. Ralph has a farm in Ohio and raises a variety of farm animals and draft horses. He asked if I would be interested in trading trees and plants for his pigs, a Boarder Collie puppy, or his sheep. Not baaaad I thought. Never really trusting myself with sheep, I opted for the puppy and some piglets. Here is what Ralph said after our trade.....

Bill and Marjorie,

Thank you for a great time, the landscape stuff, some great conversation and for having faith in 2 people that you've never met. Your boys are real gentlemen and good guys to be around. You must be proud. Your operation is top shelf. Thank you for taking me up on my proposal and our barter deal, you were more than fair. We wish you continued success in all your endeavors.. you are honest gutsy people... I like that! Thank you for letting us get to know you. Stay in touch. Thanks again for everything, Ralph & Connie ***************************************************************** *****

As you can see I identify what I want to trade for and ask for items that fit into our operations. I like to include a testimonial as it gives a link that can be verified as to the realness of my trading. I also have a newsletter that I post to my email letter so each month I can tell people what I just traded for. Here is part of my most recent email newsletter:

***************************************************************** ****

During this month of January we are offering a 10% discount on our gift cards and coupons. We help make your gift bigger. Don't forget that we will also trade for your surplus inventory,building materials, sports equipment, plumbing and ag equipment. We need all kinds of materials on our farms and ranches. You can't insult me with your offers, so go ahead...call us.....This is how we just got our dog Sweep...a Boarder Collie.....2 pigs....boxes of old tools......a John Deer riding tractor......a bunch of used but in new condition windows and doors....a couple of buckets of nuts, bolts, and nails (some bent but that's ok) and a even a hind quarter of a fresh road kill deer!!

***************************************************************** ***

This awakens people to the fact that I mean it, I want to trade.....

You can see more of my ideas at my web page http://www.seedlingsrus.com

About the author: Bill is an unusal collector of just about anything.

Burnings Bushes ....Brilliant Fall Foliage

Author: B Hirst

Article: Burning Bush (Euonymus alatus)

A deciduous shrub from the Staff-Tree Family (Celastraceae)

Burning Bush, a non-native species from China and Korea, has escaped from the ornamental plantings into neglected urban and rural areas. It travels by way of its seed. This vase-shaped shrub has outstanding red fall foliage, which blazes for weeks in early to mid-autumn. Burning Bushes are usually sheared into hedges or globes in landscape plantings. If left unpruned, the compact form of Burning Bush will grow to about 12 feet tall and 15 feet wide, and the species (winged) form will grow to about 15 feet tall and 20 feet wide. In our area it propagates naturally in shaded areas. We obtain some of our stock from seedlings we gather from a small farm cemetery on our property.Burning Bush is adaptable to a variety of soil conditions. Fertile to sterile, organic to clay, acidic to alkaline, rocky to sandy this plant proves its vigor. It does not like wet soils, but does well in dry soils. Its small fiberous roots are near the surface and responds well to root pruning. Balling and burlapping this shrub does little damage for the plant can take abuse and recover quickly. If you have a brown thumb, then this plant is for you. You can see more of Bill's planting tips and articles at http://www.seedlingsrus.com or http://www.zone5trees.com

About the author: Bill writes about trees, plants,and shrubs. His main farm is in Doylestown Pa. and he has a total of 23 farms and ranches.

Details Of Lawn Mower Blades

Author: Andrew Caxton

Article:

The lawnmower blades are made of tool steel or ordinary steel called mild steel or carbon steel. The edges of the blades made of tool steel remain sharp for longer time and will require lesser sharpening over the age of the blade. Tool steel blade is costly and generally cannot be sharpened at the DIY workshop.The mild steel or carbon steel is cheaper and easy to maintain. The blades have to be kept sharp. If this is not done, grass blades will be torn off instead of being cut. Apart from the obvious ugly look, the growth of grass blades is adversely affected as the moisture retention capacity of blade is reduced.</p>

<b>Sharpening Of Lawnmower Blades the DIY Way</b></p>

You can sharpen the <a href=""http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com/lawn-mower-b lades.html"">lawnmower blades</a> your self quickly and easily. This operation can take a very short time.The procedure is very easy and you can do it yourself. The following procedure will apply irrespective of the <a href=""http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com"">type of lawnmower</a>. Consult the operation manual of your lawnmower for removal of blades.</p>

Be sure to disconnect all the power sources before begin with the process. In case that your lawn mower was a battery powered one, then remove the battery or batteries, depending on the model. Check twice that all the power controls are off to avoid an accidental engine start.

The second step will be finished as soon as you remove the blades totally from the mower. You might need external help to achieve it, using a couple of spanners may help a lot, however be sure that it doesn't slip. BE careful while doing this, because it's easy to cut yourself whether the spanner slips.

Once the blades are out of the mower, you need the number them in order to fit them back later.

Fix a blade in a stable holding or a vice to work easily.

The sharpen process begins here. You will need a grinder or file for it. Make sure to follow the blade's contour and sharpen it to your convenience. Sharpen all blades using the same sharpened to a perfect later cutting grass.

Time to refit the blades along. Make sure to do it along with balancing, if it exists any.

There is an option of sharpen blades without removing them from the mower, however it's uncomfortable as well as more difficult. You will also need a flexible shaft angle grinder to a perfect sharpened, which will save you time.

The last step is the blade balance checking. To carry the blades balancing you need a balancer. A clue to find whether or not the blades are correctly refitted, is checking if the mower vibrates, if so then blades are not well balanced.

About the author: Andrew Caxton contributes adding reviews and special articles regularly to http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com. A gardening website that carries interesting readings on lawn equipment and lawn mower parts, including how to sharpen blades http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com/lawn-mower-blades. html

Deer Don't Eat Dragons!!

Author: Bill Hirst

Article: Ilex 'Dragon Lady'

Dragon Lady Hollies are plants for zone 6b-8a. These hollies are thought of as perfect columnar hollies. These hollies can reach 20' in height and 6' in width. The leaves being smaller than most hollies with stiff, pointed spines are not very tasty to deer. This is one of its many benificial points if your landscape has a high deer population in the area. This holly can be used as a specimen or a hedge, is self fruiting with glossy green foliage and a reddish tint on the new growth. To bad all hollies are not like this! The Dragon Lady holly will leave open spots in its growth. Hard pruning generally helps correct this detraction but makes full plants more costly to produce. You can expect a 4-5' holly, being well developed within 6-7 years from a 2 gallon liner. This plant is a sharp looking plant in your landscape. There is no doubt that this will be a plant that you will see more of. It holds up well for us and we have large herds of deer at our Doylestown nursery.

Damage to seedlings by deer will increase as it has over the past 20 years. We don't believe that there are any 100 per cent effective methods to stop deer damage except 10' high woven wire fences that are to costly for most small growers and homeowners. Human populations moving to rural areas will continue. Loss of huntable land will increase as will deer populations. Deer having multiple births coupled with increasing gun regulation is likly to continue. This means plant selection will become more important.

There are few natural controls for deer populations especially in urban areas. Planting shrubs that repell deer is your most effective means to avoid deer damage. Opening your land to hunting is an effective alternative practice for lowering deer populations. Since deer are nocturnal, hunting may not be totally effective. On our farm we have lots of feed, our plants, but little cover which is where the deer are durring hunting seasons. This means that you must have an integrated pest management plan. This plan should include the following: popualtion management(hunting), repellants, selecting resistant plants, fencing, knowledge of deer habits for integrating your management plan. The Dragon Lady holly is not eatable for deer.

Deer feeding will occur on fertilized and unfertilize plants. Most browsing of seedlings will occur at night. By planting less-preferred seedlings and ornamental trees and shrubs in unprotected areas and surrounding preferred seedlings by less-preferred seedlings, deer damage is lessened. Susceptible plants shoud be fenced or planted near occupied structures. Backyard dogs are effective in keeping deer away. Your knowledge of deer feeding habits should be your first line of defence. A plan based on this knowledge will provide seedlings growers with less expensive alternatives to dangerous chemiacls repellants and hard to maintain fences and physical barriers. Deer are creatures of habit. Deer are not going search in the woods for scarce food when it is available in quanity and quality in your back yard. Once they find easy to browse plants in your landscape, they will become like giant rats invading you backyard at night. They will return night after night and eat you nursery stock until it is gone. Some deer in certain areas will eat holly and white pines, while deer in other areas won't. Therefore plant preference lists are only rough guides to deer damage susceptibility.

In general browsing damage to nursery stock will be highest when snow or extreme weather reduces food availability. Succulent young growth is an attractive deer food source in the spring time. When food is in short supply deer will feed on less desireable plants. Deer eat a variety of vegetation including woody plants, fruits, nuts, ornamental trees, shrubs, vines, grasses, and garden vegetables. Landscaping based deer feeding habits will reduce or eliminate costly browsing damage to your nursery stock and ornamentals.

Always try and reduce deer herds. Fewer deer mean less browsing pressure. We once had a deer hunt where hunters paid 100 dollars each to a police gun fund for the control of deer on our nursery that is located next to Peace Valley Park. For weeks the control worked and deer damage was controlled.

Some people use soap bars. Leave the soap in its wrapper and drill a hole thru the bar. Attach the soap bar with twine to a branch and allow it to hang 3-4' off the ground. Hang the bar away from the center of the tree. This will act as a natural repellant for deer. Use multiple bars for large nursery stock and trees.

Other Seedlings and Liners We Recommend:

Boxwoods Red Osier Dogwood Russian Olive Rose of Sharon Hollies Leucothoe River Birch Trees Japanese Cedars Blue Spruce trees Austrin Pine Barberries Andromeda

Highland Hill Farm Po. Box 517 Fountainville, PA 18923 (215-345-0946) http://www.seedlingsrus.com or http://www.highlandhillfarm.com

About the author: This plant is a deer resistant plant that has many qualities.