Friday, August 31, 2007

The Importance of Garden Decor

Author: Denny Soinski

Article: The Quest for Significance

People are looking for ways to add significance, peace of mind, a quality experience, and an escape from the "rat-race" in their lives. Stated differently, people want to add depth and meaning to their lives. One way to accomplish this, it is asserted, is to make or purchase decor for your garden.

Make Your Garden Unique

Garden decor, along with things related to gardens, provides a return to nature, a sense of spirituality, and a return to the earth as people journey on their quest for significance and ultimate meaning. Moreover, through the use of decorations, gardeners reveal their quirks and shortcomings, their wit, their creativity, and their desire to make their gardens unique.

Transform Your Life

Gardens and their ornaments are symbols of enchantment, of mystery, of meaning, and of ultimate being. Another way of looking at this is to see that gardens and garden accents provide the power to transform one's mood and one's life. To be sure, garden accessories can become symbolic reminders of life's blessings as they encourage people to enrich their surroundings by transcending the mundane.

The Gardening Imagination

Garden ornaments help people take an active stance in their lives by enabling them to create a niche in the world that is in concert with their values and their dreams. Indeed, it is this "gardening imagination" that provides people with the opportunity to select meaningful objects that speak to their senses, to their experiences, and to their lives.

An Invitation to Add Garden Decor to your Life

Websites that sell garden decor can be viewed as invitations for people to experiment and let their imaginations run free so that they can, with conscious effort or with playfulness, select the accents that they like—decor that speaks to their dreams and to their soul. With this in mind, look at the different products that are sold and select garden accessories that help elicit childhood fantasies. Examine the different garden accents and choose ornaments that speak to your inner self.

Let Your Personality Shine Through

Garden decor helps calm the spirit, soothe the soul, and delight the senses. By letting your individuality shine through as you select your decorative accents, you will transform your garden into one of the most meaningful experiences in your life. The challenge is to capture moments of wonder, joy, and inspiration and experience the lasting pleasures of beauty and the splendors of nature by decorating your garden in a way that is congruent with your noblest thoughts, feelings, and aspirations.

Your Garden Sanctuary

Strive to decorate your garden with ornaments that magically call you to return to your garden sanctuary. Look at different garden products and decide on decorations that motivate you to tap into your playfulness or into your artistic bent as you contemplate how you will decorate your garden. In a word, you can add richness, depth, and a sense of discovery to your garden with different garden ornaments.

Summary

In conclusion, garden decor is significant because it is an invitation for people to open themselves to the magic, to the wonder, to the meaning, and to the pleasure that gardens and garden related accessories can bring to their lives.

About the author: Denny Soinski is the owner of the highly successful company "Water Fountains and Garden Decor." Denny's website http://www.water-fountains-and-garden-decor.com features garden decor accents including water fountains, vases, birdhouses, lanterns, sculptures, birdfeeders, planters, and windchimes. This article is copyrighted (c) 2005 by Denny Soinski and may be reprinted in its entirety as long as this byline and copyright statement is included.

Thursday, August 30, 2007

Daylily: A Perennial Favorite

Author: Sherri Allen

Article: Whenever a beginning flower gardener asks me what to plant, my answer is always the same -- daylilies. Without a doubt, daylilies rank high among the easiest, most adaptable plants for the flower garden. Daylilies will stand up to all but the most severe abuse and neglect, repeating their colorful show year after year.

Growing Habit: Like their name Hemerocallis (""beauty for a day"") indicates, the individual daylily flower lasts only one day. A single plant may produce over 50 flowers, however, extending the blooming period of a plant for several weeks.

Daylilies produce a wide array of blooms. Some varieties provide single trumpet-shaped flowers. Others are double, ruffled, fringed or spiderlily-like. Bloom sizes among varieties range from 2 - 8 inches. Gardeners especially value daylilies for their wide range of colors, as there are varieties available in every color except blue. Some daylily blooms are a single color, but many are multi-colored.

Most daylilies have arching foliage that grows 18 to 24 inches tall. Some varieties have erect foliage, however. Some grow as low as 12 inches and others reach 3 feet. Leaf color ranges from pale green to dark green with a bluish cast.

Daylilies are perennial plants, with deciduous, semi-evergreen and evergreen varieties available.

Location: You can find daylily varieties for all U.S. zones, however, daylilies thrive in zones 4 - 9.

Although they are adaptable to most soils, daylilies do best in slightly acidic, moist soil that is high in organic matter and well drained. Excessively rich soils may result in increased foliage growth and decreased blooming.

Daylilies prefer full sun, but will tolerate light shade. In the hotter regions, some light afternoon shade will protect the blooms of some daylily varieties from fading.

Although daylilies are drought-tolerant once established, consistent watering while they are budding and flowering will produce better-quality flowers. During hot weather, they should be watered at least weekly with 1/2 to 1 inch of water to encourage the best and longest-lasting show.

Propagation and Planting: When planting daylilies, whether divisions or newly-purchased plants, you should dig a hole slightly larger than the roots to be sure the roots are allowed to spread out. Make a small cone of soil in the center of the hole and place the plant on top, fanning the roots outward and downward. Carefully work the soil in around the roots. The crown should be set not more than an inch or so below the soil surface. Tall cultivars should be spaced 24 to 30 inches apart with smaller types 18 to 24 inches apart.

Daylilies are very easily propagated by the division of old clumps. You should divide clumps when they become overcrowded, usually every 4 to 6 years. For very vigorous cultivars, you may need to divide them more often. The best time for dividing old clumps and resetting divisions or new plants is from late summer to late autumn. You may also plant them in the very early spring, however this may result in decreased blooming the first season.

To divide a daylily clump, cut into the soil around the plant with a spade and then lift the entire clump out of the soil with a garden fork. To separate the plant into individual fans (a grouping of leaves with roots attached), shake it to remove as much soil as possible. If necessary, use a hose to wash away excess soil, then work the roots apart into good-sized clumps of 3 - 4 fans each. You should replant the new divisions as soon as possible, however, they should be able to survive for several days if protected from the heat and sun.

Pest and Disease Prevention: Daylilies are usually free from pests and diseases. Aphids and thrips sometimes feed on the flower buds. These pests can be easily controlled with insecticidal soaps, dishwashing liquid mixed with water in a spray bottle or simply a strong spray of water.

Landscape Uses: Daylilies are most effective when planted in sweeping drifts or masses. They are attractive in the perennial flower border when 3 plants or more of the same variety are planted together. They can add great amounts of color to a landscape naturalization project.

Daylilies are also perfect for tough gardening situations. They are salt tolerant, so they do well near the coast. When planted on slopes and steep hills, they form a dense mat that helps prevent erosion. Daylilies are even useful in areas prone to brush fires, as their roots are engorged with water and, when planted in mass, can stop a brush fire in its tracks.

Culinary Uses: While most flower gardeners are familiar with daylilies, few know that practically every part of the daylily is edible. Daylilies are actually higher in protein and Vitamin C than most of the vegetables we eat. Some common ways of eating daylilies include adding fresh buds and blossoms to salads, as well as battering and frying them like squash blossoms. Dried daylily petals, called ""golden needles"" by the Chinese, are an ingredient in many Chinese recipes, including hot-and-sour soup.

Daylilies are adaptable, vigorous perennials that thrive in the garden, even when neglected. They are easy to establish and multiply quickly. They are virtually pest- and disease-free. They even taste good. Go out and find a sunny spot in your garden to add a new daylily. You will quickly discover why daylilies are one of the flower gardener's favorite plants.

About the author: About the Author: Sherri Allen is the editor of an award-winning website devoted to topics such as family, food, garden, house&home and money. For free articles, information, tips, recipes, reviews and coloring pages, visit http://www.SherriAllen.com/

Wednesday, August 29, 2007

Gardening for Kids

Author: Judy Williams

Article: Children are continually bombarded with advertising for fast food and unhealthy treats. One of the most important lessons you can teach them is how to tend and grow their own food from the garden.

There are plenty of quick and easy projects that the children can get involved in. The projects will teach them about nutrition, nature, recycling and organic gardening. That's a good outcome!

The no dig garden is a particularly good project for children because the garden can be built and planted in just a couple of hours. You do not have to prepare the garden for weeks in advance, as with other growing methods. There are detailed instructions for building a no dig garden on my website (www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com). If a full on garden seems too ambitious at the start, try something simpler.

<li>Growing bean shoots is the quickest way to grow edible things. In just a few days, the kids will be able to pop fresh bean shoots in a salad or sandwich or just eat them as they come. This will also work with alfalfa, cress and snow pea seeds. Put the seeds into a clean, wide mouth jar and place a mesh material over the mouth. It must be a material that water and air can pass through, but not the seeds. A bit of discarded pantyhose secured with a rubber band will do. Soak the seeds overnight in water. Next morning, drain the excess water and place the jar on its side in a bright room, near a window. A couple of times a day, re-wet the seeds, drain and return to the bright space. The seeds will sprout and grow very quickly and within a few days will be ready to eat.</li>

<li>To propagate your own garden seedlings build this portable greenhouse! Wash a 2Lt plastic bottle (soft drink or soda water type) and using a knife or sharp scissors, cut it in half along one side. Force it open and fill one side with good quality potting mix. Plant your seeds and water gently. A very light mixture of water and liquid fertilizer will kick start the seeds. Close the bottle back up and seal with tape. Place the bottle in a sunny position. Your seedlings should be well on their way and ready for repotting in 2-4 weeks.</li>

<li>Do you know very young children? Introduce them to Hairy Harry! Take one of those pairless socks every household has and sew on some eyes and other facial features. Put some lawn seed in the sock end and fill with garden soil, potting mix or compost. Fill the sock until the face is filled out and tie a knot in the sock, making sure the mix inside is packed tightly. Water the sock regularly, or prop it on top of a container with water. The loose end of the sock will act as a wick to draw up the moisture. Place in a sunny position. In a couple of days, Harry will have a full head of green hair! In a couple of weeks, he will be ready for a hair cut or styling makeover! </li>

<li>Children love eating things fresh from a garden. For convenience, you might want to plant close to the kitchen where the children can harvest items under your watchful eye. So consider doing quick growing plants in containers. Cress, radishes and lettuce will be ready the quickest in 6-8 weeks. Next in line are dwarf beans, cucumber, cabbage, tomatoes and onion which will be ready in 8-12 weeks. Most others, including the popular carrots and potatoes will need 16-20 weeks to mature. You could be harvesting from this little garden for months!</li>

Encourage your children to nurture their little garden, which ever project you choose. It's a great way to teach them practical skills and fill them forever with the wonder of nature.

About the author: Judy Williams (www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com) aspires to become a fulltime earth mother goddess. This site acts as a primer for all vegetable gardening aspects covering topics like how to build a garden, nurture seedlings, container gardening and composting.

Tuesday, August 28, 2007

Hummingbirds

Author: Greg Pilson

Article: Many individuals are fascinated by hummingbirds. So much so, that they will do anything in their power to attract these petite creatures to their yards. So what is the best way to attract these wee feathered friends?

Here are some tips to help make your home a hummingbird hot spot:

<b>What Do Hummingbirds Eat?</b>

Hummingbirds usually feed off flower nectar and sugar water that is left out for them in birdfeeders. They also feed off of small insects like ants, slugs and spiders. If you really want to attract hummingbirds to your yard, make sure your bird feeder is always filled with nectar and sugar water.

<b>What Should My Hummingbird Feeder or House Look Like?</b>

It is a well-known fact that hummingbirds are attracted to the color red. That being said, if the feeder you already have isn't red get out your paint brush or stick a large red bow on it to get their attention. The best hummingbird feeders have perches for the birds to stand on while they feed. The holes in hummingbird feeders are just big enough for the little guys to fit their heads in, but they're too small for squirrels and other larger animals so they can't steal the food.

Refrain from painting your hummingbird feeder or house yellow because bees and wasps are attracted to these colors and also enjoy the taste of sweet nectar. You'll want to keep insects as far away from your hummingbird feeders and houses as possible.

<b>What Materials Should Hummingbird Houses or Feeders be made of?</b>

Hummingbird feeders and houses are usually made of acrylic or glass. They are also available in wood and plastic; however these do not work as effectively and may cause harm to the birds (slivers and cuts). Hummingbird houses and feeders come in a variety of sizes and shapes and usually contain numerous feeding areas throughout the feeder.

<b>Where Should I Put My Hummingbird Feeder?</b>

Ideally, a hummingbird feeder should be hung near a garden with bright flowers and plants. A flowery location is most likely to attract the attention of hummingbirds. For your viewing pleasure, you may want to hang your feeder in a place that can be easily seen from your home. For example a hummingbird feeder hung in front of a window can be admired all day.

<b>How Much Do Hummingbird Feeders Cost?</b>

The styles and designs differ so much that it's difficult to determine a specific price. Hummingbird feeders and houses can cost anywhere from $10 to $50 - depending on the style, design and features.

About the author: Greg Pilson is an avid bird watcher who also dabbles in freelance photography of his favorite subjects. He writes as a freelance writer for http://www.birdfeedersdirect.com – a site that offers information about <a href=""http://www.birdfeedersdirect.com"">various types of bird feeders</a>, <a href=""http://www.birdfeedersdirect.com/bird-houses.aspx"">bird houses</a> information and more.

Monday, August 27, 2007

How to Grow Strawberries

Author: Linda Paquette

Article: How to Grow Strawberries

In addition to the traditional strawberry patch, there are as many ways to grow strawberries as there are to eat them! Grow strawberries in a bed, hydroponically, as a ground cover, as an ornamental patio plant, or in a hanging basket.

Strawberry Categories

An important part of knowing how to grow strawberries is understanding how different types of strawberries grow. Strawberry cultivars are placed in one of three categories. •June bearing strawberries produce a large, voluptuous crop of berries in late spring. Mother plants send out runners (daughters) that root and develop into matted rows. The disadvantage to June bearing strawberries is 1) they only bear fruit once a year and 2) the first year you need to pluck all blossoms from your plants to let them become firmly established. •Ever bearing strawberries really aren't "ever" bearing, but do produce a harvest twice a year, once in spring and again in autumn. During the first year, pluck all blossoms from ever-bearing cultivars through the end of June. After that, they will blossom again and set fruit for a fall harvest. •Day neutral strawberries frequently produce a crop of small, but very sweet berries throughout most of the growing season. After plucking off the first set of blossoms allow the fruit to set and you'll have strawberries throughout the summer!

The Versatile Alpine Strawberry

The Alpine Strawberry is a cousin of the wild strawberry and is very much at home lining a path or walk way. In fact, the only strawberry that is regularly started from seed, the Alpine strawberry is a day neutral cultivar that makes an excellent ground cover with headily fragrant blossoms and very tasty red or white strawberries. The Alpine Strawberry reseeds profusely from its own strawberry seeds and bears fruit throughout the growing season.

Buying Strawberries for Transplanting

The best time to purchase strawberry plants is autumn. Find end of season plants at dirt-cheap prices or order new plants for spring delivery. In addition, your nursery may offer wholesale strawberry plants packed in bundles containing as few as 25 plants. Nurseries have limited space and often take orders for wholesale plants on a first-come, first-served basis. Frequently, their stock is depleted long before spring.

Most strawberry cultivars over-winter if kept cool in a root cellar, unheated garage, or basement. For extra protection, cover roots with sand, wood shavings or soil. Ordering or purchasing strawberry plants in the fall ensures that you'll have them for spring planting!

Thirty plants provide enough strawberries for a family of four. Select your plants carefully and purchase only virus-tested transplants.

Site Selection

Plant strawberries in the sunniest spot you can find. Although you can get a harvestable crop with as little as six hours of direct sunlight per day, the largest harvests and best quality berries come from those plants that get the advantage of full sun.

The shallow rooted strawberry plant is poor competition for weeds, shrubs, trees, or other plants. Till a garden bed in the fall to eliminate a lot of the weeds that cause problems during the growing season. Choose a spot away from large trees, which may send roots into your strawberry bed. Also, be sure to locate your strawberry bed away from any spot where you have grown peppers, tomatoes, eggplant or potatoes. These plants can harbor verticillium wilt, which is devastating to strawberries.

Although strawberries won't thrive in saturated ground, they do need a moist environment. Amend soil with a good supply of nutrient rich organic matter to both improve aeration, drainage, and increase moisture-holding capacity. In the spring, as soon as the frost is out of the ground and the soil is workable, till your bed again. Now you are ready to "set" your strawberry plants. The second and third part of this howto on strawberries is available on our site

About the author:

Linda is an author of <a href=""http://www.gardening-guides.com/related-articles/how-to/rel ated-how-to.htm""> Gardening Tips Tricks and Howto's</a>&nbsp; of Gardening Guides and the<a href=""http://www.lawnmower-guide.com/product-pages/prod_lawn_care .htm""> Lawn Care</a> section of the Lawnmower Guide.

Sunday, August 26, 2007

Paving Stones

Author: Matthew Anthony

Article:

Imagine a beautiful pattern of <a href=http://www.paving-stones.co.uk/>paving stones</a> as the central focus of your new patio. Stone circle kits are one of the most popular new products offered by suppliers of flagstones and pavers for patios. Stone pavers, such as <a href=http://www.paving-stones.co.uk/SandstonePaving.html>sandston e paving slabs</a> offer a wide range of beautiful styles and colors and can be the basis of an inviting and classic patio that is one of the most-used areas of your home.</p>

Traditionally, the paving stones used in the construction of patios, drives and walkways have been York stone - stone cut from the quarries in York - granite, slate and sandstone. The increasing availability of imported stones from markets in India, China and Brazil have added some intriguing and stunning patterns and colors to the tried and true and still popular native stones. Because of the low cost of labor to quarry those stones, natural stone paving is as affordable as concrete and aggregate <a href=http://www.paving-stones.co.uk/>paving slabs</a>, and natural stone patios have been rising in popularity over the past two decades.</p>

Laying a stonework patio has become a popular do-it-yourself weekend project for homeowners. While patios made of concrete paving stone are as easy as assembling a jigsaw puzzle (and a not very challenging one at that), working with natural stone flags and slabs is far more challenging. The irregular thicknesses and rough edges of natural stone don't come with pre-set spacer bars to help you determine how far apart to lay stones, or pre-stamped with a symmetrical pattern. </p>

Rather than this being a discouragement, though, many homeowners find the prospect of creating a natural flagstone patio a challenge, and a well-made patio an accomplishment in which they can take pride for years to come. The homeowner who wants to try his or her hand at creating a unique patio floor will find plenty of information on how to lay paving stones, as well as patterns for some of the more popular accents and styles at many manufacturers' and DIY web sites.</p>

<b>Choosing a Pattern for Your Stonework</b></p>

The pattern you choose should be one that makes the most of the space that is to be paved. A narrow walkway or path through a garden, for instance, won't display the intricate beauty of a sweeping fan as well as the wider expanse of a full patio, while a patio can be as simple as an evenly spaced coursed pattern or as intricate as a tiled mosaic circle set into a squared frame. </p>

The pattern you choose should also take into account the color and style of stone that you've chosen. The top surface of your stones may be sawn, riven or naturally domed. A polished sawn stone lends itself naturally to more intricate patterns that rely as much on color as laying pattern. A riven stone lends a more rustic look to your patterns, and reclaimed stones offer the time-worn look of casual elegance.</p>

Whether you choose newly quarried stones or reclaimed, cobbles, flags or sets, limestone, sandstone, slate or York stone, nothing compares with the timeless beauty of real stone.</p>

About the author: Matthew Anthony has written a host of garden related pieces such as <a href=http://www.paving-stones.co.uk/>paving stones</a>

Saturday, August 25, 2007

A Hedge for the Children

Author: Janette Blackwell

Article: ""Isn't that beautiful corn in those people's front yard?"" I asked.

""I will not have corn growing in my front yard,"" said my husband.

""Corn is a handsome plant. It gives a lush, tropical air.""

""I will not have corn growing in my front yard.""

So we didn't have corn the next year. Our back yard was shaded, except for one part, and I had decided to grow roses there instead of corn.

The year after that I returned to the argument: ""What if we planted corn in the side yard? It gets lots of sun.""

""I will not have corn in my front yard.""

""This wouldn't be the front yard. It would be the side yard. And you remember how delicious corn tastes when you pick it five minutes before you cook it?""

He thought about how delicious corn tastes. ""I guess the side yard isn't the front yard,"" he said. ""Okay. You can grow corn in the side yard.""

""And I'll plant a hedge out front so people can't see the corn as they drive by.""

""That's even better.""

So I began to plan a hedge.

We had many children in our Virginia neighborhood. Why not plant a hedge they could enjoy?

In the corner next to our neighbor's property, I began the hedge with a serviceberry bush (an Amelanchier). Serviceberry bushes and trees vary in size. Mine ended up about eight feet tall, with feathery white blossoms in spring and brilliant orange leaves in fall. In summer it produced tiny black berries with one drawback: between the birds and the children, they zipped off that bush. I got exactly two berries one year and none thereafter. I can state, on the basis of those two berries, that they taste a good deal like huckleberries. They are good.

At the other end of the hedge, in a strip facing the driveway, I planted black raspberries -- which felt so peppy they hardly knew what to do with themselves. I didn't know they needed to be tied to supports, and they stuck ten-foot stalks in all directions. They looked awful. They tasted fantastic.

When the black raspberries got ripe, neighborhood grownups and children gathered to gobble down undisciplined berries warm with the sun and eye each other and laugh for sheer happiness.

As a hedge, they were a mistake. As a treat, they were fabulous.

The main hedge facing the street was a row of Nanking cherry bushes about eight feet high. In early spring they were covered with tiny pearl-like buds and white blooms. In summer they glistened with red cherries within lush green growth. The cherries tasted like a cross between pie cherries and sweet cherries. They were good.

One summer day I looked out the window and saw a little boy coming down the street. I didn't recognize him, but he apparently recognized ripe cherries when he saw them. He stopped and stared at the bushes, then moved in closer. I was about to go to the door and tell him to take all the cherries he wanted, but then I realized he was trying a new maneuver. He turned around facing the street and began to back up to the bushes. Aha! I thought. That kid's had some education that didn't come from books.

His technique was pretty good. He looked blandly into the distance as the branches behind him jiggled up and down. When his hands were filled with cherries, he started off running. And I ran too -- to the door. I meant to call out, ""Little boy! Little boy! Come back."" But then I realized that would just make him run faster.

I wanted to say, ""You can eat my cherries all afternoon, if you like."" But by that time, in a splendid burst of speed, he had rounded the corner and was out of sight.

You can come back any time, little boy.

About the author: Find Janette Blackwell's storytelling country cookbook, STEAMIN' DOWN THE TRACKS WITH VIOLA HOCKENBERRY, at Food and Fiction, http://foodandfiction.com/Entrance.html -- or visit her Delightful Food Directory at http://delightfulfood.com/main.html

Friday, August 24, 2007

How to Grow Blueberries

Author: Linda Paquette

Article: How to Grow Blueberries

Along with lip-smacking sweetness, flower and foliage are also worthy reasons to grow blueberries. White, bell-shaped blossoms make a lovely addition to a spring garden and fiery scarlet foliage adds drama to a fading autumn landscape. In addition to taste and appearance, blueberries are ripe with medical advantages; they help lower cholesterol and studies suggest that blueberries also reduce the risk of some cancers.

Types of Blueberries

1.Highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum) are those usually found in the produce department of your grocery. As you might expect, they are named because the bushes grow to 6-feet in height. Fruits are large, from ½ to an inch in diameter. Depending on variety, highbush blueberries are hardy from Zones 4 through 11. 2.Lowbush blueberries (Vaccinium angustifolium) generally reach no more than 18-inches in height. Propagated from shoots spread through underground runners, lowbush blueberries form low mats of plants that produce best on a two-year cycle. The first year is the growth year and the second year is the fruiting year. The sweet, quarter-inch fruits of lowbush blueberries commonly are known as Wild Blueberries and are hardy in Zones 3 through 6. 3.Half-high blueberries (V. corymbosum x V. angustifolium) are a hybrid between lowbush and highbush cultivars. Although shorter than high-bush blueberries, half-high grow in much the same way as their taller relatives. Taste and size meet halfway between highbush and lowbush. An extra advantage for the northern grower is that half-high blueberries were especially bred to withstand the heavy snowfalls and cold winters of inland North America and are hardy to Zone 3. 4.Rabbiteye blueberries (Vaccinium ashei), native to the Southeastern United States, are the tallest of the blueberry bushes, reaching up to 10-feet in height. Because of their thick skins, rabbiteye blueberries are able to withstand southern heat in zones seven through nine.

Site Selection

All types of blueberries grow best in full sun. Plants tolerate partial shade, but production declines as shade increases. Blueberries are shallow rooted and poor competitors against large rooted trees, shrubs, and weeds that compete for water, nutrients, and crowd airways necessary to good blueberry production.

The most important element is growing blueberries is soil composition. To make the most of your blueberry planting, begin necessary soil amendments the year before planting. Blueberries grow best in loose, sandy loam. Although you may run across wild blueberries growing in a bog, on closer inspection you'll see that plants grow on small, natural hills.

Blueberries need moisture retentive, well-drained, humus-rich soil with good aeration. Soil acidity is also very important in growing blueberries. Plants need a pH of 4.0 to no more than 5.0 to thrive. Initially, bring the pH down to acceptable levels with sulphur or 4 to 6 inches of acid peat mixed into the first 6 to 8 inches of topsoil. Also, enrich soil with good organic compost.

Planting blueberries

Although most blueberries self-pollinate, plant two or more varieties within a type for a larger harvest of more voluptuous fruits. Five plants provide enough blueberries for fresh eating, drying, and preserving for a family of four.

Plant blueberries in spring after all danger of frost passes. When growing several plants, you may find it easier to prepare a bed rather than digging holes for individual plants. Add a generous portion of peat moss to your trench or hole both to increase the organic content and to ensure continued soil acidity.

Standard spacing for highbush, half-high, and rabbiteye bushes is five to six feet apart in rows eight to ten feet distant. Dig holes or make your row three to four inches deeper than the size of the root balls. Pack soil firmly around the roots of each plant.

Plant lowbush varieties one to three feet apart in rows three to four feet distant. Cover about a third of the top stems with soil to encourage runners to develop.

Once established, a blueberry bush may remain productive for decades with just a minimum of care. The second part of this article is available on the site the author writes for.

About the author: Linda is an author of <a href=""http://www.gardening-guides.com/related-articles/how-to/rel ated-how-to.htm""> Gardening Tips Tricks and Howto's</a>.&nbsp; The next part of this article is available at our site&nbsp; <a href=""http://www.gardening-guides.com"">Gardening-Guides.com</a>

Where you can also download the whole series as a free full color e-book. Just follow the links.

Thursday, August 23, 2007

The Importance Of Garden Decor

Author: Denny Soinski

Article: The Quest for Significance

People are looking for ways to add significance, peace of mind, a quality experience, and to escape from the "rat-race" in their lives. Stated differently, people want to add depth and meaning to their lives. One way to accomplish this, it is asserted, is to make or purchase decor for your garden.

Make Your Garden Unique

Garden decor, along with things related to gardens, provides a return to nature, a sense of spirituality, and a return to the earth as people journey on their quest for significance and ultimate meaning. Moreover, through the use of decorations, gardeners reveal their quirks and shortcomings, their wit, their creativity, and their desire to make their gardens unique.

Transform Your Life

Gardens and their ornaments are symbols of enchantment, mystery, meaning, and of ultimate being. Another way of looking at this is to see that gardens and garden accents provide the power to transform one's mood and one's life. To be sure, garden accessories can become symbolic reminders of life's blessings as they encourage people to enrich their surroundings by transcending the mundane.

The Gardening Imagination

Garden ornaments help people take an active stance in their lives by enabling them to create a niche in the world that is in concert with their values and their dreams. Indeed, it is this "gardening imagination" that provides people with the opportunity to select meaningful objects that speak to their senses, to their experiences, and to their lives.

An Invitation to Add Garden Decor to Your Life

Websites that sell garden decor can be viewed as invitations to experiment and let your imaginations run free so that you can, with concerted effort or with amusement, choose the ornaments that you like—decorations that are in harmony with your highest aspirations and most dignified pursuits. With this in mind, look at the various products that are sold and select garden accessories that help elicit childhood fantasies. Examine the different garden accents and choose those that speak to your inner self.

Let Your Personality Shine Through

Garden decor helps calm the spirit, soothe the soul, and delight the senses. By letting your individuality shine through as you select your decorative accents, you will transform your garden into one of the most meaningful experiences in your life. The challenge is to capture moments of wonder, joy, and inspiration and experience the lasting pleasures of beauty and the splendors of nature by decorating your garden in a way that is congruent with your noblest thoughts, feelings, and aspirations.

Your Garden Sanctuary

Strive to decorate your garden with ornaments that magically call you to return to your garden sanctuary. Look at different garden products and decide on decorations that motivate you to tap into your playfulness or into your artistic bent as you contemplate how you will decorate your garden. In a word, you can add richness, depth, and a sense of discovery to your garden with different garden ornaments.

Summary

In conclusion, garden decor is significant because it is an invitation for people to open themselves to the magic, to the wonder, to the meaning, and to the pleasure that gardens and garden related accessories can bring to their lives.

About the author: Denny Soinski is the owner of the highly successful website "Water Fountains and Garden Decor." Denny's website <A HREF=http://www.water-fountains-and-garden-decor.com>http://www.w ater-fountains-and-garden-decor.com</A> features home and garden decor accents and accessories including water fountains, vases, birdhouses, lanterns, sculptures, wall plaques, birdfeeders, lighthouses, planters, and windchimes.

Wednesday, August 22, 2007

Enhance your garden with sunflowers

Author: Tony Robinson

Article: Sunflowers are certainly stars of the gardening world. It is hard to miss the beauty of sunflowers standing tall, either on their own or edging a bed of more traditional flowers. Few who have seen these stunning beauties can deny their stunning beauty and attractiveness.

The family of sunflowers, known scientifically as genus Helianthus, includes both annual and perennial varieties of sunflowers. As their name implies, sunflowers generally prefer full sunlight, so it is important for gardeners to choose the sunniest part of their garden when planting these stunning plants.

It is also important to take the adult size of these plants into account when planting them, and to space them accordingly. Most varieties of sunflowers are quite large, so it is important to space them widely so they will not crowd each other out and compete for nutrients.

Since sunflowers are so large and sturdy, many gardeners like to use them to border vegetable gardens, and a vegetable garden bordered by sunflowers is certainly a beautiful sight.

The blooming period of sunflowers typically extends from late summer to early fall, and the growing requirements for these plants are generally easy to meet. Most varieties of sunflowers require only a well drained, modestly fertile soil in order to thrive. It is generally a good idea to amend the soil with either aged manure or a good quality commercial fertilizer. It is best to sow the sunflower seeds directly where they are intended to grow, since they set seed quickly and start to sprout very fast.

While sunflowers may be easy to grow, their seeds are popular with many unwanted garden visitors, particularly rabbits, squirrels and insects. Due to this popularly with common garden pests, it is best to sow three times as many seeds as are needed. Planting extra seeds will allow the four legged visitors to your garden to eat their fill while still providing a beautiful garden full of sunflowers.

Sunflower seeds are best planted about a foot apart. Sowing the seeds this far apart will allow the adult plants to grow the largest heads. If you plant sunflowers closer together they will develop smaller blooms and may never reach their full potential. If you are growing sunflowers for those monstrous blossoms, it is important to give them plenty of space to grow.

When working with annual varieties of sunflowers, it is important to rotate the planting area. This will keep the soil its healthiest and allow the sunflowers to achieve their best blooms.

There are many places to buy quality sunflower seeds, including the internet, mail order houses and local garden centers. As with any flower seeds, it is important to follow the planting instructions carefully to achieve the best results from these spectacular plants.

About the author: Tony Robinson is an international author and webmaster. In his busy life he finds time to ""Smell the Roses"". For geat tips, techniques and articles visit http://www.rose-bloom.com

Tuesday, August 21, 2007

Reel Lawn Mowers

Author: Andrew Caxton

Article: Reel lawn mowers can totally make the difference for your garden in terms of effectiveness. Since most homeowners still think that expensive mowers are a must in their gardens, a simply reel push lawnmower can be the most efficient amongst these kind of garden equipment. You can purchase the perfect model from many different on the market, there are many to choose from. The range of prices vary from the most affordable to your budget up to real expensive ones. The kind of mower you finally buy will depend exactly on the size of your garden, lawn or property. Here you have some examples for different sizes of areas.

•Small sizes : The perfect reel mower for small gardens would be probably one lightweight, which are actually affordable to all budgets as well as the easiest to use and maintain. They work well with lawns that don't require much attention. There is also another important issue regarding lightweight reel mowers, they are extremely easy to store when the job is done.

•Medium sizes: Lawn mowers for medium sizes are usually larger and heavier. They are specially designed for larger areas to mow. While medium models are slightly expensive than smaller models, the price will worth it. You will save time when mowing large areas as well, this is a fact that will pay off at the end when you review your mower investment.

•Large sizes: Of course not, there are not reel mowers designed for large sizes unless you wanted to spend a whole day or week to mow a large area. There are instead electric lawn mowers that might fit into large areas, electric ones would fit perfectly into small and medium sizes. However lawn mower batteries don't work a lifetime and might not be definitely what you looked for. If you are planning to mow large gardens, please take a look on riding lawn mowers or heavy gas powered mowers that definitely will worth for your property.

One of the keys to maintain a garden looking great is taking special care of the lawn by using the proper tools. A healthy and beautiful garden is success of the gardener who has worked hard. If you want to achieve a beautiful area, you will need to spend money and time mowing the lawn as well as investing in quality tools that will help you to get your goals. A poor quality reel lawnmower might be a waste time in terms of performance. You will need to invest in a competitive reel mower. It's worth do it when someone wants to get the job done well.

Reel Lawn Mowers Maintenance

You can keep your reel mower working well just by doing a proper maintenance. You might get a reel mower working a lifetime following a pre-storage maintenance process every time you use it. One typical mistake of gardeners is to store a mower just after the job is done, without taking care of the blades or engine. Both, lawn mower blades and engine are the most important parts of a lawn mower. While reel models don't have any engine, the blades become the leader part for a proper performance. The cutting blades need to be well sharpened. Most people use blades until they don't cut at all, and then go to the shop to replace for new ones. There is another option to save money on that. Why not to sharpen the blades yourself? It might be a great idea for those who want to learn the art of gardening. Just as a brief explanation to know the main idea on how to sharpen mower blades, you could find a comfortable place to work and prepare to sharpen a lawn mower blade.

Once you are ready you can start using a fine flat file or a flat sharpening stone to remove any burrs from the blade and cutter bar. Then you must apply grinding paste to the blades' cutting edges. Wait until the paste is ready, should be not more than 10 minutes. Then remove excess grinding paste and test and adjust the mower. This is the minimal process for sharpening blades at home. You can also find more information via Internet or just asking your local gardening provider. But remember to keep your reel mower as good as possible, it is probably the master key piece for a great looking garden.

http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com

About the author: A. Caxton is a successful freelance author who writes regularly for <a href=""http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com"">lawn mower and garden tractor</a>. A gardening website that carries articles on automatic and <a href=""http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com/reel-lawn-mo wers.html"">reel lawn mowers</a>, <a href=""http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com/lawn-tractor s.html"">lawn tractors</a>.

Monday, August 20, 2007

Teak Garden Furniture - A Lasting Value

Author: Catherine Olivia

Article: The purchase of teak garden furniture is a true investment in value. Teak is an excellent choice for outdoor furniture as the wood ages beautifully and will give you many, many, carefree years of enjoyment.

Teak is an extremely dense-grained wood and is highly resistant to rot, warping, shrinkage and swelling which makes is ideal for outdoor garden and patio furniture. It is claimed that some teak benches in public parks in England that are still in use today are made of recycled decking from old sailing ships and are nearly a century old. You will want to choose your style of teak furniture carefully as your outdoor teak furniture will be around for many years. It could even outlast you and become a family heirloom!

Teak is also one of the easiest of woods to care for. It will thrive with absolutely no care whatsoever, and over time will develop a patina of silver gray as it ages. It can be left in this natural state or, if you wish, it can be sanded and then rubbed with teak oil to bring back it's original honey color. Teakwood has a life expectancy of 75 years if left untreated. Teak is smooth to the touch and does not splinter. Most teak furniture owners will leave their teak furniture outside all year long. Left outside during Spring, Summer, Fall or Winter, your teak will age gracefully.

Most teak is harvested from renewable government plantations in Indonesia, which makes it an ecologically friendly wood. Indonesian teak is considered by many teak furniture manufacturers to be the highest quality of teak wood available in the world today. Teak is generally kiln dried, which ensures the wood is dried to the core, unlike air drying. Teak furniture is generally all made with mortise and tendon joinery. This is a superior method of construction which results in more solid and durable pieces of furniture. Most manufacturers will also use solid brass castings, screws and bolts in the construction of their furniture. Brass hardware will never rust, even left outside in all weather conditions. The highest quality teak furniture will also be fully machine made. Fully machine made teak furniture guarantees more uniformity and a more perfect finished product.

Teak comes in many timeless and classic styles. Whether you're looking for a dining table with matching chairs, a single garden bench, a steamer chair, a chaise lounge, a Adirondack chair, or any of the other many styles of teak furniture available, your purchase of teak furniture will be a lasting value.

About the author: For more information visit <A HREF=http://www.teak-furniture-guide.com>http://www.teak-furnitur e-guide.com</A>

Sunday, August 19, 2007

Finding a Flower Bulb Company

Author: Dave Lavinsky

Article: Flower bulbs offer some of the most distinctive, unusual flowers around. Gladioli, lilies, crocus, lilac, daylilies… all are instantly recognizable. When it comes time to buy flower bulbs, however, many people are at a loss. Who sells flower bulbs?

In searching for "the" flower bulb company, Jackson and Perkins is probably the most recognizable name. They are a very well-known catalog distributor of flower bulbs.

Though well-known and reputable, Jackson and Perkins is not the only flower bulb company. Several other companies also sell flower bulbs. For example, American Meadows offers a variety of seeds and bulbs. Tulips.com offers fresh flowers, tulips, daffodils, irises, and more. Langeveld Bulb is one of the world's leading suppliers of flower bulbs and perennials. Garden Value Outlet offers huge selection with online inventory. Wooden Shoe Tulip Farm began growing tulips in 1974. John Scheepers, Inc. is a reputable bulb company. Nature Hills offers trees, bulbs, and seeds, and Blooming Bulb offers huge selection at wholesale prices.

In searching for flower bulbs, you can also look to local stores. Department stores, such as Wal-Mart, often sell flower bulbs. Home improvement stores also sell flower bulbs. Often, local nurseries and landscape supply stores are the best source for flower bulbs. With these stores, unlike online distributors, you can inspect the bulbs. In this way you know that you are getting healthy, firm, and blemish-free bulbs.

No matter what company you choose, there is bound to be a variety of flower bulbs to suit your taste.

About the author: <a href=""http://www.e-flowerbulbs.com"">Flower Bulbs Info</a> provides detailed information on wholesale, discount, spring, summer, and fall flower bulbs for sale, flower bulb catalog and company information, and advice on planting flower bulbs. Flower Bulbs Info is the sister site of <a href=""http://www.i-flowerdelivery.com"">Flower Delivery Web</a>.

Saturday, August 18, 2007

Introduction to Aquaponics

Author: Kirk Gordon

Article: Hydroponics and aquaponics are very similar in every way except hydroponics requires the addition of fertilizer and there's no fish in the nutrient solution.

In aquaponics, plants and fish live a symbiotic life with the fish feeding the plants, and the plants cleaning and filtering the fish's environment.

The fish waste becomes the plant's food source, consequently, the plants' roots filter the water and keep the tank clean. In essence, aquaponics could be considered a miniature ecosystem because both plants and fish are thriving in the same environment.

Aquaponics offer benefits to both Gardener's and Fish Farmers. Fish Farmers may utilize aquaponics if they have difficulty disposing the nutrient rich fish water, while hydroponics growers benefit from having a constant supply of free plant food – eliminating the need to purchase commercial fertilizers.

Unlike hydroponics or aeroponics, aquaponics is still a relatively new cultivation technique. As more technology is developed and the process is refined, it could potentially become a space and money saving process for producing fish, vegetables and herbs.

In hydroponics and aeroponics applications, the nutrient solution needs to be prepared – measured, mixed, and then added to the reservoir. In aquaponics, there's no mixing fertilizer involved, making it a great way for beginners to cultivate plants. Only the fish needs to be fed.

The number of commercial applications utilizing aeroponics is still very limited. A number of universities globally are currently exploring the science of aquaponics to advance this extreme cultivation technique. Aquaponics is currently being used in areas where the fish population is declining and/or their food supply must be imported.

About the author: This article courtesy of http://www.hydroponicsearch.com - <a href=""http://www.hydroponicsearch.com"">Aquaponics</a> Search Engine & Community.

Friday, August 17, 2007

It's Gardening Season!

Author: Melanie Breeze

Article: It's gardening season again! Are you ready? Whether you are a seasoned gardener, or are looking to start gardening, you will likely need supplies and plants. If you shop smart, and use the tips below, you can get that garden running with very little money. And you can save a lot of money on your grocery bill as well.

There are many different types of gardening, but it is important to learn the basics of the activity. Below you will find a list of my tips to planting a garden on a budget.

&#61522;Learn as much as you can about gardening. Don't pay for gardening books, use your local library. It is free, and you can get a wide assortment of books to get you started. If you find something useful like a planting schedule, photocopy that particular page to keep it in your files. There are many hobby gardening sites online as well, so try to do a Google search for "gardening."

&#61522;Plant what you like. Your first garden doesn't have to be a complex one. Don't take on more than you can chew, literally. If you have a small family, plant only what you can eat or give away. Don't plant a huge amount of crops, because you will end up throwing them away at the end of the season. On the same note, don't plant things that your family won't eat. A garden full of spinach might not go over well with your kids, so plan accordingly.

&#61522;Buy your supplies online. Buying tools and plants online can save you a great deal of money. Look for discount sites online. You can save up to 50% on the supplies that you need, just by shopping online. Make sure to factor in shipping as well, so if they have a free shipping deal- go for it!

&#61522;Look for plants that will last for more than one growing season. Some plants can last season after season. This in turn will save you money! So look for cheap plants that will give you the most bang for your buck.

&#61522;Use a coupon site. A coupon site like couponchief.com is a great way to save even more money. The service is free and you can get a coupon code for just about any site you can think of. So consider buying your tools and plants through one of their vendors. You may find a great bargain!

With these tips, I have no doubt that you will be able to grow a beautiful garden on a budget. Happy gardening!

About the author: Melanie Breeze, avid online shopper and user of <a href = "http://www.CouponChief.com">CouponChief</a>, is always shopping around for the best deals. You can find gardening <a href = "http://www.couponchief.com">discount coupon codes</a> at CouponChief, all in one location. Always find a free coupon 1st before making ANY purchase!

Thursday, August 16, 2007

Planting Roses In Your Garden

Author: Lee Dobbins

Article: Roses are an old standby for any garden and one of the worlds favorite flowers. There are over 5,000 varieties of roses in the United States and they can be used to enhance your garden in many ways — as creepers, shrubs, vines, climbers, hedges or just as beds of pure colour.

When picking out roses for your garden, it is important to get healthy plants. Make sure the stems are green and not shriveled and the roots are moist and partly fibrous. The most expensive rose is not always the best rose; it may be only a newcomer, much discussed and, therefore, a favorite.

In general, there are two types of roses: bush roses and climbers. Bush roses are shrub like and climbers produce canes that require some sort of support. The most commonly planted type of bush rose is the hybrid tea rose. Other types of bush roses include polyanthas (roses in large clusters), the fioribundas (large-flowered polyanthas), and the hybrid perpetuals (vigorous growers with a great crop in June and continuous blooming throughout the summer).

The climbers include ramblers, whose long pliant canes have large clusters of small roses that can be used for covering walls, fences and banks. The climbers also are pillar roses, adapted to growing near buildings and on posts and the climbing hybrid tree.

If you are contemplating planting roses in your garden, make sure you pick out the proper spot and prepare the soil appropriately. You should use garden loam with organic matter that contains peat moss, leaf mould, compost, rotted or commercial manure. Prepare the soil in the rose beds well before in order to allow for settling of the soil.

You can plant roses in fall or spring, but fall is actually best. When planting roses, inspect the roots to make sure they have not dried and if they have make sure you soak them before planting. Trim back any roots that are weak, long or broken.

Set the plant in a hole that is large enough so that the roots can spread. The part of the plant where the top attaches to the roots (called the bud) should be just under the surface of the ground. Plants should be spaced 18" apart. Prune the branches back to about 8" from the soil.

To grow good roses it is necessary to cultivate, to prune and to spray. If you have a well-cultivated bed you need not worry about watering. But if you start to water in hot weather, you must keep it up, soaking the roots thoroughly about once a week.

Spraying every 10 days guards against the diseases and insects that attack roses. Nicotine sulphate wipes out the green lice; arsenate of lead is used against chewing insects; or sulphur and arsenate of lead may be used in a dust, as may DDT dust.

When winter approaches, protect your roses by piling sod or straw mulch around them. If you have climbing roses, remove the supports and place the canes on the ground, peg them, and cover with soil mounds.

About the author: Lee Dobbins writes for <A HREF=http://www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com>http://www.backyard -garden-and-patio.com</A> where you can find out more about gardening. Visit <A HREF=http://www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com/garden-flowers.html >http://www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com/garden-flowers.html to find out more about garden flowers.

Wednesday, August 15, 2007

Easy to grow roses

Author: Hans Dekker

Article: There are many different types of roses. If you are new to rose gardening, then it is wise to choose varieties of easy to grow roses to begin your rose garden. Some roses require constant attention and caring for while others require none. Roses come in varieties of high maintenance to no maintenance. Most roses, though, do require a certain amount of time to get started and to care for adequately. Minimal care roses that produce maximum results are ideal for beginners or those still somewhat new to rose gardening. Not only will it teach you the basics without working you to death, it will also encourage your gardening experience, perhaps leading you to take on other rose types that are a little more challenging to care for. Easy to grow roses need some care as well.

Some roses will exist solely based on their will to survive. There are many types of easy to grow roses that do not require watering or fertilizing but rather suffer nature independently and flourish. However, this type of treatment is not ideal for any type of rose and I do not recommend that you treat your roses in this manner no matter how much they seem to prevail. Instead, a good balance of watering and feeding is ideal because it provides the essential nutrients and elements that your plant needs without putting it under strain to get them for itself.

Belinda's dream is a good easy to grow rose.

Belinda's Dream is one of these very easy to grow roses. Belinda's Dream grows approximately six feet high. Blooms are a beautiful, soft pink and they continue to bloom through the whole year. This rose is naturally disease and pest resistant and will absolutely flourish on it's own with little care.

You can also consider ""Knockouts"" for your rose garden.

Knockouts are another one of these simple and easy to grow roses. Knockouts are very well liked and appreciated because of their ability to constantly bloom. Knockouts are also extremely hardy and resistant to disease and pests. They are adored by warm and humid climates such as the southeast because they are quite resistant to black spot, which is a disease that is dreaded by rose gardeners of any warm and humid atmosphere. The Knockout produces vivid red colored blooms and it creeps out and covers a wide area. Of all of the easy to grow roses, Knockouts offer you a wonderful turnout that is a winner for sure.

Fairy Rose is also on of these easy to grow roses.

Fairy Rose is also on of these easy to grow roses. It is what rose gardeners refer to as a dwarf rose which only grows to lengths of two to three feet. Do not let this name fool you, the Fairy Rose grows closely to the ground and blankets quite a bit of area. It also blooms magnificently throughout the year even through the harsh months of July and August. Beware of the monstrous thorns on this one. This is the one, and only deterrent I can think of to growing this one. The thorns make this plant a little more of a challenge to prune and care for but if you are willing to take it on, it can offer some eye-popping results during bloom. Overall, the Fairy Rose still has my thumbs up because of the over the top bloom power that it has.

The butterfly rose is also a great pick.

Mutablis (otherwise known as the butterfly rose) is my last pick of these easy to grow roses. It, like some of the others, blooms constantly throughout the year. The flowers change colors as they develop and this is a unique property that I have only observed in one other rose. The petals begin as a delicate yellow, turn to an orange color, then change to pink, and finally wind up a deep and vibrant red color. This rose is also resistant to disease and is definitely a very hardy grower.

These are just a few of the roses that are easy to bloom and are therefore great starter roses for any rose garden. You offer yourself the opportunity to become familiar with roses and general terms and aspects of rose gardening without becoming heavily involved by choosing a rose that is simple and easy to grow to begin your garden with. As your skill and understanding of roses develops, you can then move onto bigger challenges by planting some of the more difficult to grow roses in your garden.

About the author:

Hans is an author of the <a href=""http://www.gardening-guides.com/product-pages/flower-garden ing.htm""> Flower Gardening </a>section of <a href=""http://www.gardening-guides.com""> Gardening Guides.com</a></p>

Tuesday, August 14, 2007

The Swallowtail -- A Beautiful Butterfly

Author: Christi Vega

Article: Swallowtail butterflies are some of the most beautiful butterflies found anywhere. The North American species are large, brightly colored butterflies with tailed, rear wings. There are more than 600 species worldwide with only about 30 of those living in North America. They have wingspans of 2 to 5 ½ inches long.

Most swallowtails belong to four general subgroups. These groups are the Black Swallowtails ( Papilio spp.), Giant Swallowtails ( Heraclides spp.), Tiger Swallowtails (Pterourus spp.), and Pipevine Swallowtails ( Battus spp.). The Zebra Swallowtails belong to another group, Eurytides.

The Black Swallowtails are black with yellow spots or broad yellow bands. Their caterpillars usually feed on plants in the carrot family such as Queen Anne's lace, parsley, or cow parsnip. North American members of this family include Eastern Black, Desert, Short-tailed, Western Black, Oregon, and Anise.

Giant Swallowtails are brown and yellow in color. Their caterpillars prefer citrus plants and trees, torchwood, prickly ash, and pepper plants, In North America you can find Thoas, Giant or Orange Dog, Schaus', and Ruby-spotted members of this group.

The Tiger Swallowtails are colored just as their name suggests, yellow with black stripes. You will find their caterpillars feeding on deciduous trees. They probably have the greatest variety of host plants, but their favorites include willow, cottonwood, birch, ash, poplar, sycamore and cherry trees. The Tiger, Western Tiger, Two-tailed Tiger, Pale Tiger, Spicebush or Green Cloud, and Palamedes all live in North America.

Pipevine Swallowtails are usually blackish in color. Their caterpillars eat pipe vines, aristolochias, which are woody vines with sharp smelling roots. This food makes most of these butterflies not very tasty to most predators. North American species include the Blue Swallowtail and the Gold Rim.

Zebra Swallowtails are aptly named for their color, which resembles that of a zebra, white with black stripes. There are only two members of this group in North America the Zebra and the Dark Zebra Swallowtail. You'll find their caterpillars on pawpaws and other members of the Asimina species. Because of this very specialized host plant, the Zebra numbers have dropped rapidly in recent years.

Have you seen a swallowtail recently?

About the author: Christi Vega is the author of ""The Joy and Serenity of Creating A Butterfly Garden"". Go to http://www.abutterflygarden.com to learn how you can create a beautiful garden that attracts these marvel winged creatures to your home. You may reprint this article in its entirety as long as the resource box is included.

Monday, August 13, 2007

When is a Lily Not a Lily?

Author: Bev Boorer

Article: When is a Lily Not a Lily? © Bev Boorer It might surprise some people to know that the daylily is not a true lilium. It is called a lily because the flowers resemble those of the lilium genus. A native of Asia, the botanical name of this herbaceous perennial is Hemerocallis. The beautiful blooms only last one day, but because each plant bears so many flowers, it still manages to have a flowering period of over six months. Each clump of daylilies has many flower stalks and each stalk can bear up to fifty flowers. Daylilies are the ideal flower to grow in anyone's garden. They are flood, drought and frost hardy and those that become dormant in winter even survive snow. They are not susceptible to disease, don't mind seaside conditions and are not fussy about soil type. They don't mind shade, either, but will flower better in full sun. What more could one ask of a plant? A good colour range? Daylilies have that, too. These days, daylilies come in not just yellow and orange, but a huge variety of colours. Some are even bi-coloured. There are big round ones, triangular, ruffled and laced white ones, some have watermarks, others have fancy eyes. What a variety! And they have as diverse a range of size as they do colour and shape. The smallest flowers are 3cm across, while the largest make 20cm. Foliage can range from under 30cm to over 1.5m. The smaller varieties with grass-like foliage are quite suitable for borders, and all should be planted about 60 cm apart with the crown at ground level. Fertilise and mulch well for the best performance. Potted daylilies can be planted into the garden at any time of year, but if you buy bare-rooted ones from the nursery, then late winter/early spring is a good time to plant them, and again in late summer through autumn. This avoids the absolute hottest and coldest parts of the Aussie year. Many of the modern daylilies have been developed in the USA and so will be found in specialist nurseries. The cost can be rather high, due to the thousands of plants that must be grown each year to produce genuine advances. But it will be a worthwhile investment in your garden for such a hardy and long-flowering plant is surely hard to beat. They are the perfect low-maintenance plant. Get free plants! Hydrangeas will be shooting soon and they are one of the easiest plants to propagate. The hibiscus also grows easily from cuttings. I pop pieces into any spare pot plant and they seem to grow roots with no trouble. Fuchsia cuttings can also be taken in spring, but will do even better in the autumn. Softwood tip cuttings can be taken while the plant is growing well and the easiest way of making a mini-greenhouse to help roots develop is to simply cut a soft-drink bottle in half. Poke a hole in the bottom with your garden fork, fill it with potting mix and push in two or three cuttings, then pop the top half back over the bottom half. If you find it hard to slip on, make a vertical cut of about 2cm in the bottom half. This will give a little bit of extra space. You can also use a clear plastic bag for the top if you prop it up with some twigs. An elastic band will prevent the wind from blowing it off. Friends love it when you bring them a gift from your own garden. Until next time, happy gardening!

About the author: Bev Boorer has had two children's books and four short stories published, as well as several craft articles. She has studied with The Australian School of Journalism and the School of Writing, Queensland, Australia. She works as a volunteer editor for www.Greypath.com and contributes gardening articles to their online ezine,Dinkum. She has also written an ebook 'EasyGardening'available at http//www.gardeningebook.beststuffhere.com

Sunday, August 12, 2007

Lawn Edging

Author: Linda Paquette

Article: words: 312

Lawn edging

How do you make those flowers bloom where they are planted and not go overboard and how do you make your turf stick to its own turf and not edge into your flower beds, borders, and garden spaces? Lawn edging is the answer!

Edging bricks, lawn timbers, and treated wood edging , molded plastic edging and heavy duty plastic strips are all ways to wall in your flowers and keep weeds out of your garden and the other landscaped areas of your yard. In addition to curbing your weed problem, lawn edging also keeps mulch and decorative landscape treatments in place.

Brick edging remains a favorite method of lawn edging. Now available in many colors and pattern variations, it is an attractive, durable, and easy way to cut back on lawn chores.

If you want to dig deep into your weed problem, pressure treated wood edging or plastic strip edging is the way to go. Because these types of edgers are usually easier to bury deeper than bricks, molded plastic edgers (decorative), or wood timbers, they provide more resistance to types of invasive weeds that send out underground runners.

Of course, you can always put the action into lawn edging by trimming your lawn with an edging tool. Lawn edgers are sold in various types from spade shaped implements to those that look like saw blades on wheels. In addition to muscle powered diggers and walk-behind rolling edgers (which also take a fair amount of muscle in a dry summer!), there are many electric and gas powered appliances. Some weed trimmers also have special lawn edging attachments that keep you from chopping the shrubbery off with the weeds!

With all the variety in today's modern edging tools, appliances, and edging embellishments, it's easy to make your manicured yard a picture of perfection right up to the very edge of it!

About the author:

Linda is an author of <a href=""http://www.gardening-guides.com/related-articles/how-to/rel ated-how-to.htm""> Gardening Tips Tricks and Howto's</a>&nbsp; of Gardening Guides and the<a href=""http://www.lawnmower-guide.com/product-pages/prod_lawn_care .htm""> Lawn Care</a> section of the Lawnmower Guide.

On our sites you will find a lot of practical tips and inside secrets for your outdoor enjoyment.

Saturday, August 11, 2007

Gardening the organic way

Author: Tony Robinson

Article: More and more people are discovering the joys that come with planting an organic garden. There are many reasons for gardening the organic way, from decreased use of pesticides to lower cost to concerns about the environment. Many gardeners are worried about the overuse of pesticides, and the possible effects it could have on their family members, their pets and their families. Other gardeners are concerned about the possibility of pesticide runoff, and concerned that such runoff could get into the groundwater and cause damage.

Another reason for organic gardening is the recent trend to incorporate fish ponds into the garden landscape. Fish are among the most sensitive creatures when it comes to chemical sensitivity, and even a small amount of chemicals in a closed environment like a pond can be toxic to many ornamental fish. Any homeowner who wishes to incorporate a fish pond into his or her landscape must be very careful about the use of pesticides, insecticides and other chemicals.

While information about organic gardening was once hard to come by, today there is lots of information available, as more and more people take up this special form of gardening. Both food plants and ornamental flowering plants can be grown organically, and many people particularly like the idea of growing and eating their own organic produce.

The basis of a good organic garden lies with the quality of the soil. It is very difficult to grow healthy plants or flowers in poor quality soil. If the soil in your area is not of high quality, it is important to take steps to improve the soil before planting any flowers or plants.

One great way to improve the soil for an organic garden is to lay down a good quality mulch. It is a good idea to mulch the flower bed with three inches of organic material, as this will help to conserve moisture, discourage the growth of weeds and add much needed nutrients to the soil. In addition to these benefits, a good quality mulch also provides a great looking finishing touch to the garden.

If you plan to grow acid loving plants in your organic garden, it is a good idea to put down a thick layer of pine needles in the fall. As these pine needles decompose in the fall and winter months, they add acid to the soil naturally, and eliminate the need for harsh chemicals or other additives. Adding chemicals to the soil can alter their long term chemistry and reduce their ability to grow thriving plants.

Providing a good mulch bed in the organic garden also provides protection from many garden pests, in addition to keeping weeds to a minimum. In addition, a good quality mulch will encourage healthier plants to grow, and healthier plants will be better able to fight off infections without the use of fungicides and herbicides.

Starting a compost pile is a another great way to reduce the amount of household waste your family generates, while producing high quality organic fertilizer for your plants. A simple compost pile is easy to set up, and it produces the rich, high quality soil that help plants thrive.

About the author: Tony Robinson is an international author and webmaster. In his busy life he finds time to ""Smell the Roses"". For geat tips, techniques and articles visit http://www.rose-bloom.com

Friday, August 10, 2007

How To Divide Perennials

Author: Lee Dobbins

Article: Perennials are a favorite type of garden plant for many gardens as they will bloom for several seasons without replanting. Perhaps one of the best qualities of perennials is that you can divide them and make more plants for free! Dividing your perennials periodically is important as it will keep them from getting overcrowded and help insure healthy lush plants.

Many perennials can be divided easily, but this does not hold try for every variety. In general, division is easiest with perennials that grow in clumps or ones with an expanding root mass. Perennials which stem from single taproot typically cannot be divided but can be duplicated by using root cuttings or seeds.

It is important to divide the plant at a time when the plant is most likely to be receptive to this procedure. Fr plants that come up in spring and summer, the best time to divide them is in the fall Perennials that bloom in the fall or late summer should be divided in the spring.

You can divide perennials with a minimum of preparation. If you will be replanting the divisions, you should have already decided on the new area and prepared the soil to accept the new plants. If you are dividing to give the plants to a family member or friend, have an appropriate receptacle handy to put the division in.

Loosen the soil, gently, around the plant clump that you plan to divide. You can use a spading fork to scrape up the dirt and be sure not to damage any parts of the plant. The clump should then be sliced with a garden trowel and divided into four parts. Make sure your trowel is sharp so you get a clean cut, otherwise your plants could become damaged. Break up the four sections by hand into four inche by four inche sections. Plant the small sections immediately.

When you are dividing plants, make sure you thoroughly wet the soil a couple of days before you do the division. This will make it easier to dig up the clump for division. Also, you should add compost or some other organic material to the soil both around the original plant and in the soil where the new divisions will be planted. This will give the plants the nutrition they need and help them to grow strong in their new area of the garden. Once the new plants are in place, make sure you water thoroughly and fertilize appropriately.

Planning your perennial plantings and divisions can help you grow your garden without having to spend extra money. All it takes is a little bit of time and patience and you can have a large full garden on even a small budget!

About the author: Lee Dobbins writes for <a href=""http://www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com"">Backyard Garden And Patio</a> where you can get more great gardening and landscaping tips.

Thursday, August 09, 2007

The Advantages of Poly Outdoor Furniture

Author: Joshua Brown

Article: Imagine owning outdoor furniture that you don't have to spend your time maintaining. Just set it outdoors and enjoy using it. That is the major advantage of poly outdoor furniture.

Poly Lumber is a high density polyethylene (HDPE) plastic derived from post-consumer waste such as milk jugs and plastic packaging that would otherwise end up in a landfill. This material is then cleaned in a decontamination process to a high purity level. This purified recycled plastic is formulated with Ultra-Violet (UV) stabilizers and color pigments, and then formed into various shapes and profiles used to create beautiful and maintenence-free furniture.

So let's list the advantages of poly lumber furniture:

- Environmentally Friendly : Because it is made out of recycled plastic, it helps reduce waste and also saves trees from being cut down. That's great for our planet.

- No Painting, staining or oiling : You can spend those hours you would have spent painting or staining, relaxing on your poly furniture. You got to love that.

- No storage needed : Does your garage or shed get filled up every winter with all that old wood furniture? Poly furniture can be left outdoors all year long. Any climate, weather or temperature.

- No cracking or splinters : Ouch, got a splinter!? Never again! Poly furniture will not splinter or crack. Safety never felt so good.

- No fading : Poly furniture has solid color all the way through and is made with UV stabilizers. The beautiful color it is now, is the color it will stay.

- No Rotting : In the wettest environment, poly furniture will not rot. Great for waterfront properties and your poolside paradise.

- Mold and Mildew Resistant: Because the poly does not absorb moisture, it does not foster the growth of mold or mildew.

- Strong and Heavy : Poly furniture is generally heavier than wood and is very strong. You do not need to worry if it will hold you after all those years.

- Easy to clean : Use a mild detergent and a cloth, wipe it down and spray it off. That's about all the maintenance you should be doing!

If you are looking to save the environment or just save some time for rest and relaxation. Poly lumber has some major advantages for you.

About the author: Joshua Brown is the webmaster at Millcraft Outdoor Furniture (http://www.millcraftfurniture.com/). Millcraft manufactures poly outdoor furniture and is located in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania.

Wednesday, August 08, 2007

Pruning Basics

Author: Donna Evans

Article: Pruning Basics

Pruning can improve the health, productivity and appearance of your trees and shrubs. But improper pruning can destroy the shape of your plants and also cause more harm than good. Following a few simple guidelines can help make the right decisions when deciding what to prune out of your trees and shrubs.

First, remove the three D's, dead, diseased or damaged branches. Also prune out branches that cross each other. Trees do best with only one leader, which is the main upright trunk of the tree. If there is a branch competing to be the leader it should be pruned.

Understand your plant's shape. Is it natural creeping, mounding or upright? Visualize what shape the mature plant will be and prune out branches that interfere with the natural shape.

Remove suckers. Some plants, such as glossy black chokeberries tend to send up suckers which are new shoots from where the stem meets the root. Carefully cut out the suckers which interfere with the shape of the plant.

Timing. Generally it is best to prune plants in late winter or early spring before the new growth starts. However, for spring and early summer blooming shrubs and trees, such as lilacs, wait until after the bloom and then trim. This will help you to avoid cutting off the current buds.

In pruning it is best to recognize your limitations. For tall trees or high branches you may need to call a professional arborist. Also, if you have any questions on what or when to prune make sure you do more research before getting out those clippers.

About the author: Donna Evans is co-owner of Gizmo Creations LLC, a landscape design firm located north of Brainerd, Minnesota. Gizmo Creations works with homeowners, landscape contractors and business owners to create a unique landscape that incorporates the property owner's lifestyle into their landscape. Their website, www.gizmocreations.com, has numerous articles on landscape design as well as sample plans.

Tuesday, August 07, 2007

How To Plan A Garden Right

Author: David Kurshel

Article: Gardening is a hobby that brings joy, entertainment, and a better quality of life. It is a creative activity, the result of which is a more aesthetically appealing home.

Thoughtful planning of a garden starts with the type of garden you would like to have. Deciding on a type of garden is essential defore choosing which design elements to include. Will your garden be just a place to plant a bunch of flowers, which will blossom only during the growing season? Or would you rather have a thoughtfully-chosen herb garden? Or maybe just a vegetable plot?

Another issue to consider is the climate in your location. It can be surprising how little we know about the facts, figures and statistics of the weather where we live. You may want to consult an online map to get statistical data regarding climate elements like rainfall per month or average temperatures.

The next step, after having decided about the type of garden and after investigating the local climate, is to figure out the plants that you would like to grow in your garden. Think of plants that are suitable for the duration of the growing season in your location and that will survive the changes in temperature, typical for your location.

The thoughtful planning of a garden involves one more factor to consider – how much shade is necessary for each of the plants. You need to make sure that there is enough light all over the places you plan to plant your garden.

When you have finished with planning in theory, it is time to start planning the plots in your garden. Again, think for a good plan – one that brings joy, is easy to keep to, and at the same time efficiently uses the available space.

Think about where to place plants that require a lot of sunlight. The best place for such plants is away from buildings and taller trees because these block the light at daytime.

Deciding which plants to grow near the house, and which should be in the open also requires some thought. If you prefer the sunshine streaming through your windows, then you are best not to have bulky trees or bushes near the house, where they will block the sunlight.

If you have decided that you will be growing herbs and vegetables, the best place for them is near the house. When they are near the house, it is more likely that you will be using them for cooking. Besides convenience, you should also think about the location of vegetables as far as their needs for sunlight are concerned. This is especially true if yours is mainly a vegetable garden.

Last, but not least, take into account your personal preferences, when designing a garden. If there are particular extras you would like to have, for instance winding pathways or gazebos, include them in the initial design of the garden. Your outdoor garden is constrained only by the limits of your creativity and the growing season in your location.

David Kurshel is the webmaster of <a href=""http://www.biogardening.com"">BIO Gardening</a> -- a popular and extensive resource including articles and a newsletter about gardening. For more information, go to: http://www.biogardening.com

About the author: None

Monday, August 06, 2007

The Incredible Daylily

Author: Donna Evans

Article: The Incredible Daylily

Some people have referred to daylilies as the poor man's orchid. Indeed, daylilies, like orchids, are a beauty to behold. Daylilies are no longer just the muted yellow and orange plants grown in road ditches. They come in every color from white to deep purple (almost black) and in a variety of sizes. If you don't' have a green thumb, daylilies are the perfect plant. They are relatively carefree and can turn an unused, dull area, into a stunning bed of color and texture. Daylilies flourish almost anywhere. They are also an excellent plant to use for erosion control, such as on a slope that is difficult to mow, and also as a ground cover plant.

There are indeed a lot of the common yellow and orange daylilies around. However, there are some spectacular varieties that you should keep an eye out for: Black Eyed Susan: A real standout in the garden. This daylily has rich yellow-orange petals with a maroon and dark orange throat. Bama Bound: This daylily has a deep reddish color giving it a satin like appearance. Little Grapette: A miniatured sized daylily with grape-purple petals and a green throat. Beauty to Behold: A light lemon colored daylily with a green throat. The flowers are satin in appearance. The flowers are nocturnal; the day's flowers actually open up the night before. Hyperion: This daylily has been around for over 80 years. The canary yellow flowers have a trumpet shape and are treasured for their delicate fragrance.

About the author: Donna Evans is co-owner of Gizmo Creations, a landscape design firm located just north of Brainerd, Minnesota. Gizmo Creations has a over 20 years of experience in landscape design. Their award winning website has numerous tips and articles on landscape design.

Sunday, August 05, 2007

Laying Out Your New Landscape

Author: Dean Novosat

Article: When planning your new landscape, the first place to start is by driving around your neighborhood and seeing what other people have done with their landscapes. Bring a sketch pad or digital camera to record things you like. Your next stop is your local nursery or garden center. Look at what plants do well in your area. Look at any displays they have setup to get an idea of which plants work well together. And don't be afraid to ask questions.

Now comes the planning stage. Get a long tape measure and some graph paper and take some accurate measurements of your yard. The more accurate you are, the more detailed you can be with your plan. Don't worry though, if you aren't perfectly accurate. Even if you pace off your yard and get some general measurements, you will be better off than just trying to guess how large an area you are working with.

After the measurements are done, you can use either graph paper and pencils or one of the new software packages that are available. I prefer the software only because it allows you to make changes very quickly and easily, and also allows you to see three-dimensional views of your design. One unique feature is that many software programs allow you to preview your landscape five-, ten-, twenty- or more years from now! This way you can see how your mature lot will look in the future! This will help prevent over-planting areas.

If you don't use your computer to lay out your new design, use a piece of graph paper and transfer your measurements to the paper. Begin by laying out the larger elements like trees and shrubs, and then adding the smaller elements around them to complement the design. Also keep in mind the relative heights of the materials you are going to use. When viewing a landscape you want taller items in the back and shorter elements in the front.

This article series will continue over the next couple of issues as I take you through the entire process from planning to planting!

* * *

Find more of Mr. Novosat's writings on his own blog at <a href=""http://www.novosat.us/wp/."" target=""_blank""> http://www.novosat.us/wp

About the author: Dean Novosat is an avid gardener and landscaper. He has transformed many boring yards into beautiful landscapes. He has several websites including <a href="" http://www.the-garden-doctor.com "" target=""_blank""> http://www.the-garden-doctor.com and <a href="" http://www.dr-landscape.com "" target=""_blank""> http://www.dr-landscape.com.

Saturday, August 04, 2007

Secrets of Growing Killer Tomatoes

Author: K.D. Wiseman

Article: Tomatoes have always been my favorite garden vegetable to grow and to eat. I have had success with the other standard garden vegetables, such as cucumbers, bell peppers, cauliflower etc. but tomatoes became my specialty over the years.

I start my seeds indoors approximately 5-6 weeks before the last expected frost date. I use a commercially available starting flat that will hold 72 seedlings. I prefer plant the Tomato Park's Whopper™ Cr Improved, VFFNT Hybrid which can be ordered from Park Seed Co. <http://www.parkseed.com>. This is a large, luscious, disease resistant tomato that I have seen grow to excess of 3lbs.+. It makes for an awesome BLT since a slice of one of these beauties will hang off the toast at least one inch or more all the way around!!!!!

For the potting mixture, I use equal parts of a good quality potting soil and vermiculite that makes the soil light enough so that the seeds will not have difficulty sprouting and growing. I know your probably saying to yourself right now, WOW, 72 tomato plants, I don't need that many, well look at it like this…out of the 72 that you start, some will not develop for whatever reason, and once they are planted, some will die, the birds will get some, the animals will get some and yes, the bugs will get some regardless of how hard your try to keep them out. So out of that 72 plants, you could wind up with just the right number in the end for your garden. Of course it is possible to wind up with 72 very healthy, untouched by animals, disease or bugs, tomato plants, as happened to me one season, then you will have more tomatoes than you can possibly eat, can, sell or give away!!!! But that is a whole 'nother story!!!

I have grown tomatoes in all types of soil, from rocky, hard packed clay to rich dark loam so loose you could push your arm elbow deep into the soil with no effort. It has been my experience that almost any soil will work with most only requiring minor amendments.

If you need to add amendments to your soil to loosen it, I recommend a mixture of aged sawdust and sand in equal parts. The sand can be obtained in bulk from your local concrete company for a small fee or you can buy it in bags from your local hardware store. One note about the sawdust, DO NOT use fresh sawdust, as this is much to hot due to the nitrogen being released during the breakdown process. Plants placed in this sawdust; even with the mix of sand and soil are much to tender to withstand the high concentration of nitrogen.

If fresh sawdust is all that you can obtain, pile it in one corner of your garden and let it age for new season.

Your local sawmill, if you have one close by, should have a good supply of old sawdust on hand that they will let you load up and haul away for free. If you do not have a sawmill or any type of manufacturing facility close by, such as the Ames Co., that makes wooden handles etc. you can check with your local county extension agent and he or she can tell you where you may acquire the sawdust. Speaking of the county extension agent, when you go to consult with the agent, take along some soil samples from different places in your garden and ask that they be tested for the proper nutrients. This is a free service provided by some counties while others may charge a nominal fee, regardless, you can have the results back in just a few days.

Once you have the sawdust and sand, spread equal parts over your garden until it reaches a depth of about one inch or more depending on the type of soil. Too much and the soil will be too loose and the water will drain away to quickly, not enough and the sun will bake it to a hardpan during the dog days of summer.

Work this mixture into your soil as deep as possible using your rotary tiller or the old fashioned way, by using a spading fork or shovel Once this mixture is worked in properly then it is time to consider what type of fertilizer is needed.

Armed with your soil test results, you will have a good indication of what kind of fertilizer is best for your particular garden. In most cases, a good all purpose fertilizer known as Triple 10 or 10-10-10 will do the job very well. Your soil test results will give specifics of any additional nutrients that you may need and should also include coverage rates.

Once you have completed the fertilizing, give your garden a moderate soaking with your sprinkler or hose nozzle to dissolve and distribute the fertilizer through out the soil.

When I begin to set out the tomatoes I have somewhat of a unique approach, I dig the planting hole, approximately 10-12 inches deep with a post hole digger, which also helps to determine the spacing for each plant ( 2-2 ½ feet apart or about ½ the length of the handle of your post hole digger) I use the post hole digger for several reasons:

1.Its much easier on your back, you don't have to bend or kneel to dig the hole. 2.The larger and deeper hole means that more of the tomato plant itself can be placed deeper into the ground and the more plant you can actually place in the ground the stronger the plant will be, because every bit of the seedling that is placed underground will develop into the root system, thereby you will have deeper and stronger roots from the very beginning. 3.The loose backfill in the hole allows for the developing root system to get a firm foothold.

After you have gotten all your holes spaced out and dug, go back and sprinkle just a bit of Miracle-Gro into the bottom of each hole then add just a small amount of water to the hole. Gently remove your seedlings from the flat and place it as deep as possible in the hole. I recommend leaving no more than 1 - 2 inches of tomato above ground. Yes, it will take longer for your tomatoes to produce by doing this as compared to setting them out at that same depth they were in the seeding flat, but you will have stronger plants and plants that virtually never need watering because at that depth moisture is pretty much constant unless it is an extremely dry summer. Believe me, if you set your tomatoes out at the flat depth, you will be watering them at least every other day.!!!

The next thing we need to address is the method used to control the sprawling plant. Some people like to place straw down around their tomato plants and let them sprawl across the ground. I believe this opens the door for more pest problems, such as the tomato hornworm. The method I recommend is using concrete reinforcing wire to make your own tomato cages. The wire can be purchased at most any hardware or do it yourself store. The wire has large 6" openings that you can easily pass your hand through when picking time comes. The wire is about 6 ft high which makes a very sturdy cage for even the biggest tomato plant. To make the cages, count off seven of the squares and then, using a cutting torch or a study pair of wire cutters, cutoff the bottom of the seventh square which will give you six 6" spikes that will make the cage as steady as a rock when they are pushed into the ground. I place my cages around the plants as soon as the plants are in the ground. Once you make the cages they will last of years and years to come.

Our last area of concern is pests and diseases, specifically the tomato hornworm and blossom end rot. The tomato hornworm is nasty little creature that will surround and chew through your plant at just below ground level. To prevent this from happening push a very large nail into the ground right next to each tomato plant. This will prevent the hornworm from surrounding your plant and eating through the base.

If you see the end of your tomatoes beginning to rot as they grow, then it is surely a case of blossom end rot, which can be easily stopped from overtaking your entire tomato crop. Go to your local pharmacy and get some potassium chloride, then place two heaping tablespoons into a garden sprayer and fill with water, shake to mix then spray your plants well. Do this weekly until no new end rot appears.

If you follow this guide and use a little TLC you will have some of the largest and best tasting tomatoes one could ever ask for.

You will definitely be the envy of the entire neighborhood!!!

About the author: K.D. Wiseman is the owner of DMJ Enterprises and creator of Best Of The Home and DMJ Enterprises. Best Of The Home and DMJ Enterprises are popular home and garden websites featuring products for every corner of your home and garden Please visit both sites for your entire home and garden needs. <a href=""http://www.bestofthehome.com"">www.bestofthehome.com <a href=""http://www.dmjenterprises.com"">www.dmjenterprises.com