Thursday, August 31, 2006

Garden Composting Tips- The Art of Composting

Author: Carlo Morelli

Article: Even a composting neophyte can create top-notch compost. Akin to cooking, composting is half art, and half science. Awareness of these basic factors will help you getting started. Just like a chef demands high quality ingredients, successful composting needs the best ingredients too. Good materials for composting include these: grass clippings, leaves, plant stalks, hedge trimmings, old potting soil, twigs, vegetable scraps, coffee filters, and tea bags. Bad composting materials include: diseased plants, weeds with seed heads, invasive weeds, pet feces, dead animals, bread and grains, meat or fish parts, dairy products, grease, cooking oil, or oily foods.

To prepare compost, you need organic materials, microorganisms, air, water, and a small quantity of nitrogen. Organic material is what you are trying to decompose (see above for Do's and Don'ts). Microorganisms are tiny forms of plant and animal life, which break down organic material. A small amount of garden soil or manure supplies adequate microorganisms. The air, nitrogen, and water offer an encouraging environment for the microorganisms to produce your compost. You can add enough nitrogen to the compost with small amount of nitrogen fertilizer., which can be purchased at hardware stores or nurseries. Air is the one ingredient which you can't have too much of. Too much nitrogen can kill microbes; too much water causes insufficient air in the pile.

If microorganisms have more surface area to feed off of, the materials will decompose faster. Chopping your organic materials with a machete, or using a shredder or lawnmower to shred materials will help them break down faster.

The compost pile is your oven. Compost piles catch heat created by the activity of millions of microorganisms. The minimum size for hot, fast composting is a 3-foot by 3-foot by 3-foot. But piles wider or taller than 5 feet don't permit enough air to reach the microorganisms at the center.

Your compost pile's microorganisms work their hardest when the materials have about the moistness of a wrung-out sponge and as many air passages. The air in the pile is usually consumed faster than the moisture, so the pile should be turned or mixed up now and then to add more air; this maintains high temperatures and controls odor. Use a pitchfork, rake, or other garden tool can to turn materials with.

About the author: Carlo Morelli is a writer at OnlineTips.org, where you can read about <a href=""http://www.onlinetips.org/rose-soil-composition"">the best soil composition for roses</a>, <a href=""http://www.onlinetips.org/wrought-iron-balusters"">wrought iron balusters</a> and other home and garden tips.

Landscaping Ideas: Creating A Backyard Wetland

Author: Carlo Morelli

Article: A miniature wetland on your property can offer similar benefits that natural wetlands offer. A mini-wetland can even help replace the valuable natural functions of wetlands that may have been lost during your area's development.

What is a wetland? Simply any area in which water covers the soil or keeps it saturated at least two or three weeks out of the growing season. They are commonly found wherever water collects at a rate faster than it drains away. Some are swamped year-round while others only hold water for short-lived periods each spring. The majority of wetlands are underwater less than a month during the summer. Wetlands with grasses, cattails, and similar vegetation are referred to as marshes, and wooded wetlands, with shrubs and trees, are called swamps.

Who wants a swamp in their backyard, you ask? Well, a wetland in your yard will store, filter, and clean runoff water temporarily from your roof and lawn. It will supply a home for some fascinating friends; from butterflies and bees to salamanders, toads, frogs, and birds.

How long soil is wet establishes which wetland plants will grow best. Plants like cattails, bulrushes, jewelweed, and the lovely cardinal flower do best with alternating wet and dry periods, and survive flooding as long as most of the leaves are out of the water. Water lilies and pond plants grow well in a permanently flooded pond. Most wetland plants do not require standing water to grow successfully, and will survive even in an area that appears dry during most of the growing season.

Starting a wetland in your yard could be as easy as planting wetland plants in an existing wet spot or drainage area, or may require the effort needed to install a pond. You can create a wetland in any level area and make it suitable for most wetland plants by digging a wide, shallow hole, lining it with plastic, refilling it with soil, and adding water.

Here are a few tips to get you started:

1. The sides should slope down gradually to the deepest area.

2. An irregular shaped wetlaand will look the most natural. Long curving wetlands will fit nicely into an existing landscape plan.

3. Line the hole with sheet plastic. Use heavy objects such as round stones to hold the sheeting in place.

4. If you're in an area that has a high annual rainfall, puncture the liner in several places with pen-sized holes halfway up the sides to supply drainage. This will let keep the soil from staying completely waterlogged for long periods.

5. Covering the edges of the plastic liner with soil will hide them and also hold it in place.

About the author: Carlo Morelli is a contributor to OnlineTips.org, where you can read tips about <a href=""http://onlinetips.org/landcaping-drought"">landscaping during times of drought</a> and <a href=""http://onlinetips.org/landscape-xeriscape"">xeriscape landscaping</a>.

How to choose your garden furniture and make it last

Author: Angus Charlton

Article: Garden furniture is now a fashion item as the patio and garden increasingly become an additional functional space to the home.

Before you buy any garden furniture it is strongly recommended that you do some research. Doing so will greatly increase your chances of buying garden furniture that is right for you and will last you a long time. Following are some important tips you need to consider before you buy.

Firstly decide whether you want stackable or foldaway furniture that will be put away in the shed or garage in winter or if you want permanent solid garden furniture that remains in situ all year round. If you want your garden furniture to be a permanent part of your garden for esthetic reasons then it is recommended that you go for heavy furniture made from hardwood, aluminum or wrought iron with rust proofing. It is well worth spending the money on the heavier more durable materials as this will be much more cost effective in the long run.

Choosing the right type of material and construction is paramount. Decide what kind of material for your garden furniture would best compliment your patio or garden. Select a material that will stay in balance with your garden.

Wood is the best all round as it is lightweight, esthetically pleasing and comfortable but requires some maintenance. Choose a tropical hardwood which is high in natural oil content like teak, iroko or courbaril. These woods are weather resistant and can be left outside throughout the year.

Make sure that mortice and tenon joints are used for your teak garden furniture and not bolts which corrode. If any metal fittings are used in the construction make sure they are made from brass, stainless steel or aluminum which are corrosion resistant. Make sure the construction is only premium grade teak for our garden furniture, so any knots, cracks and other defects are eliminated before the timber is used to build the furniture. Additionally, Make sure your teak garden furniture is kiln dried to optimise moisture content and ensure shape is maintained and cracks are eliminated.

Teak garden furniture that is assembled using epoxy based glues tend to have the best performance and durability of all the types of joints as the epoxy resin used will not be affected by rain or frost.

If your teak garden furniture becomes dirty it is easy to clean with warm soapy water and a scrubbing brush which will enable you to restore the beautiful silver grey weathered look. If required a pressure hose can be used at 60-80 bar [900-1200psi] at a distance of no less than 30cm.

Once your teak garden furniture has weathered the colour will be enhanced by an annual scrub.

A small amount of bleach added to the water will suppress any algae growth.

Any stains and grease spots can be immediately removed by washing down using a light detergent then rinsing off with clean water as soon as they occur .However, this is not essential as nature will take its course over time.

In dry weather small cracks will appear in the end of the grain timbers. This is natural and no action needs to be taken as when the moisture in the atmosphere increases the timber will return to its original condition.

It is not necessary to use teak oil or varnish as these will not extend the life of your garden furniture and are purely cosmetic. However if you wish to preserve the as new appearance of your teak garden furniture the application of teak oil when the furniture is new will give a more lustre finish than leaving untouched. Please ensure you follow the manufacturer's instructions as usually this is a three stage process. Make sure the timber is completely dry when you apply the teak oil, otherwise the furniture will blacken.

Wrought iron garden furniture generally looks the best as it is usually hand crafted to give a unique look. The disadvantages of wrought iron furniture is that it is not as comfortable as wood and heavier to move around. Additionally, iron rusts so wrought iron garden furniture has to be especially coated to prevent it from rusting so make sure the supplier gives you at least a one year warranty against rust.

Finally, if you can, it is recommended that you invest in a cover for your garden furniture. Covers now come in all shapes and sizes and are well worth the money as they add years to the life of your garden furniture. Simply place the cover on your garden furniture every evening or when it rains, you will see the benefits in the long term.

About the author: Angus Charlton is managing director of Arboreta, an online store offering <a href=""http://www.arboreta.co.uk"">garden furniture</a>. He is a keen gardener who has developed a garden furniture business that resources from sustainable rainforests and contribute to the art of Feng Shui for gardens.

Spring Flowers from bulbs for the Lazy Gardener

Author: Pet Campbell

Spring Flowers from bulbs for the Lazy Gardener

I am not going to pretend that I am a Master Gardener, or the end of all wisdom with regard to spring bulbs in Florida. I will share my experiences with bulbs that I have planted in Florida that were successes or failures here at Pet's gardens. One of the things I missed in Florida was spring flowers, and I heard from everyone, you can't grow them here. Well here is the thing!

You can. Here I was a dedicated...Sort of gardener missing the beauty and fragrance of spring flowers! Being told no, well I decided to investigate and if necessary loose a few dollars in the lesson. Garden bed preparation is not my specialty; I don't map out a garden. I plant. This means I am a lazy sod. And really I dig holes and drop bulbs in. I do not measure I guess.

I do not carefully prepare my flower beds; I do not add a million pounds of this or that. Nope I just don't. This is really ok my flowers don't seem to mind in the least. My garden beds are nothing fancy, no magic formulas no expensive additions. I am a simple gardener. Plant it, feed it, water it, mulch it weed it. I have neither the time nor inclination to do more. Remember I am the lazy gardener, and I hate to sweat!

However I love flowers, I am really not particular, I do have some favorites but I am careful not to show it. Roses and hibiscus are fĂȘted as the tropical queens, here at Pet's gardens but luckily the rest of the flowers have not picked that up!

I don't know how many times I have heard that you can't have spring daffodils, and tulips, or hyacinths in Florida... Nonsense! You surely can if you remember and utilize a few simple guidelines,

1. Daffodils like should be planted after the beginning of November, if you plant to early The ground will be much to warm, if you wait, the ground will have cooled enough that they won't sprout and then die off, this is a very expensive and frustrating experience. So learn from my mistake and wait. Last fall as an experiment I refrigerated 200 daffodil bulbs and then planted them in December. They did not come up, although I had carefully for a change followed the directions given by the grower. At the same time I planted 500 daffodils (assorted) that were a mistake! From Amazon I had actually ordered 250 bulbs, and for some reason Amazon duplicated my order. So I ended up with 500 bulbs. What can you do? Return them? Heck no, it was like a stroke of fortune as far as I was concerned and I so did not do the happy gardener dance where my hubby could see it! But I did plant them and waited checking anxiously until I saw the crisp green tips emerge from the ground. The first daffodils bloomed on Feb. 1-2005.
I had daffodils blooming until June 2005.

2. It is a fact of life in Florida that tulips will be annuals, so just deal with it.Honestly because we don't get the hard ground freezes necessary for tulips, we have to choose whether to spend the money, enjoy their short bloom period, or purchase alternate flowers. I am fond of tulips, but since these bulbs were to be a array of color to brighten that bleak period between winter and summer I chose to plant hyacinths instead they at least have a shot at coming back.

3. Hyacinths are rumored to be perennial in Fl. Under the right, so far never specified conditions. All I know is that I put 100 hyacinth bulbs in the front border of my main perennial garden, and by golly I had 100 blooms! I do not think that there is any smell that can compare to hyacinths, it is simply heavenly. I will report next year if they return.

4. Do not cut the foliage off after your flowers have finished blooming, yep its going to be kind of ugly for a couple of weeks, but don't complain you had vases of gorgeous flowers to brighten and scent your house, that non of your neighbors had! Spring bulbs don't need our help, they are on their own timetable, and they know somehow when it's right to start growing. And I will add that while pacing and watching does nothing to speed the growth cycle it is good for your legs and hips! I am working on lilies right now so you can watch for that article coming soon. Feel free to drop me a note at pet@petsgardenphotography.com

About the author:
Pet, is a gardener , photographer, and best of all ..she is the find a shortcut and use type gardener.


Your Keywords - No Bidding - 6 Hour Placement
A New Kind of Paid Inclusion from ExactSeek
Sign Up Today and Receive FR-E-E Bonus Software

< http://www.exactseek.com/featured_listings.html >

Choosing roses for your landscape

Author: Tony Robinson

Article: Roses have long been a favorite among all types of gardeners, and roses continue to enjoy great popularity today. In addition to their beauty as cut flowers and in bouquets, roses are among the most useful and attractive flowers to grace the landscape of any home.

As a matter of fact, the exterior of any home can be made more graceful and more inviting through the use of wonderful landscape roses. Choosing the right ones, and ensuring that they compliment the overall style of the home, is very important to the overall success of the landscape.

Fortunately, the number of ornamental landscape roses make finding them an easy task. The difficulty consists of choosing the right ones from this variety. There are a number of classes of roses whose characteristics make them great for use as landscape ornamentals. For instance, the gardener who wants to grow roses up and over an archway or a trellis may want to use tall growing tea roses. Tea roses are renowned for their nodding blooms, therefore all who pass under the arch would be treated to the beautiful sight of roses in full bloom.

To accent a wall or other permanent structure, a true climbing rose is often the best choice. True climbing roses can be trained to many different effects, including climbing up the length of the structure, or accenting the tops and sides of a wall or building.

The Polyantha or modern day Floribunda rose is a great choice for gardeners looking for a vibrant splash of color for the background. These popular varieties of roses have large sprays of blooms, and they are popular choices for providing color in the landscape.

If roses are to be planted in front of other plants in the landscape, miniature or low growing China roses are a perfect choice. Roses can even be used as hedges, with modern Shrub roses and Rugosa roses being excellent choices.

Of course, as with any aspect of gardening, color is an important consideration. After all, every gardener's goal is a garden full of colorful, vibrant and healthy plants. Fortunately, roses come in so many shapes, sizes, textures and colors that there truly is a rose for every gardener.

The goal of choosing the best color roses for the landscape should be to compliment the color of the surrounding landscape. For instance, a spray of plain white tea roses can be striking against a dark red brick home, or an arrangement of pink roses can be the perfect compliment to a stone or marble entranceway. With so many colors of roses to choose from, it should be easy to find colors that compliment and enhance any decorating scheme.

One popular trend in the world of landscaping is to use a variety of different plants and flowers in the landscape. Whereas single species landscaping was in vogue a few years ago, most of today's gardeners like to use a mix of different colors, species and styles of plants. Doing so not only makes for a vibrant garden, but it is thought to enhance the health of the soil as well.

Fortunately, roses lend themselves well to this mixture, and roses can be a beautiful part of an overall landscape of plants and flowers. In addition, there are roses suitable for a variety of climates. Choosing the best rose varieties for your specific climate should mean fewer pesticides, few disease issues and an overall healthier garden.

About the author: Tony Robinson is an international author and webmaster. In his busy life he finds time to ""Smell the Roses"". For geat tips, techniques and articles visit http://www.rose-bloom.com

Wednesday, August 30, 2006

Mower Maintenance for a Perfect Lawn

Author: David Chandler

Article: Growing and maintaining a lush green lawn takes care and the right equipment. The right lawn mover for your landscape and proper maintenance of your equipment will ensure a nice even lawn. A good lawn mower should cut the grass and not tear or rip it out.

The first thing to consider when purchasing a lawn mover is your landscape. Is your lawn on a slope or flat ground? What type of mower can get the job done with the least amount of effort? Another factor is how easy the mower is to maintain for peak performance.

If you have to cut grass on a slope, the best type of lawn mower is one with high wheels. This will make it easier to push up a hill, or to move back down the hill with. The second type of lawn mower is a cordless or electric mulching lawn mower. The mulching mower is less messy and mulches your lawn. The third type of lawn mower is a reel lawn mower. Reel lawnmowers are environmental friendly, not contributing to pollution and are easy to use.

After deciding on the type of lawn mower to purchase, review the maintenance schedule. A good maintenance program will allow your mower to last for years to come and give your grass a better cut. Every spring, the different parts of the lawnmower should be cleaned or repaired. Spark plugs should be cleaned or replaced for good firing and nuts and bolts should be checked and tightened where necessary.

The underside decking should be cleaned throughout the season to remove build up of grass and dirt. Cleaning the grass and dirt will also help in preventing the spread of diseases in grass. In order to clean the deck of the lawnmower, you should first empty the gas tank and make sure that the spark plug is not connected. You can then stand the mower up on its side and spray the mower with water. You can then scrub off the rest of the dirt and grass that is stuck on the mower. Make sure to dry the mower after you have finished rinsing it off, to make sure that none of the parts rust.

Your maintenance should also include checking the oil and air filters. The air filters should be cleaned or replaced on a regular basis. Before removing the filter to replace, make sure that you know whether it is paper or foam. The oil in your lawn mower lubricates the engine. Be sure you read the operating instructions on the type and amount of oil your mower uses.

Another important part of maintenance is sharpening the blades every one or two months, depending on use. Sharp blades ensure a clean cut rather than ripping out the grass. This can be easily done by removing the blade from the mower and sharpening it with a file.

When mowing season is over, there are certain steps to properly store your lawn mower for the winter. It is advisable to remove the oil and gas, and clean the exterior.

With consistent and proper care of your lawnmower, you will be able to keep your lawn looking great through the seasons and years, and your mower will last for years too.

For more information about lawn mowers and your lawn, visit http://www.lawnmowersinfoguide.com and http://www.lawninfocenter.com

About the author: David Chandler For your FREE Stock Market Trading Mini Course: ""What The Wall Street Hot Shots Won't Tell You!"" go to: http://www.stockmarketgenie.com

Hydroponics Gardening - How to Grow Flowers and Vegetables with Minimal Time and Effort

Author: Stephen Provis

Article: Did you know that you can still grow your own beautiful flowers and vegetables, without having to spend many hours every week looking after your garden?

One of the biggest problems many gardeners face is never having enough time to maintain their garden. There's always weeds to remove, insects and other pests to take care of, and steps to take to prevent plants becoming diseased. Even watering the garden each day can be very time consuming, unless there's an automatic sprinkler system in place.

If you want a garden but only have limited time to look after it, hydroponics is a great option. Hydroponics gardening has many time-saving advantages over conventional gardening methods.

Some of these advantages are:

<b>1. No weeding required.</b>

With hydroponics gardening, the plants are grown in a solution of nutrients dissolved in water instead of soil. You don't have to worry about weeds sprouting amongst your plants, because soil isn't used.

<b>2. Fewer problems with pests and diseases.</b>

When growing hydroponically, you have less of the typical problems with pests such as slugs, snails and caterpillars attacking your plants.

Although the nutrient solution of your hydroponic garden will have to be changed regularly, this only takes a fraction of the time compared to conventional gardening maintenance - eg. greenhouse gardening, where soil has to be replaced between crops to prevent disease.

<b>3. You don't need to spend time watering your plants.</b>

Plants grown in a hydroponic garden have an unlimited supply of water. You never need to be concerned that your plants are getting too much or too little water.

<b>4. Say goodbye to digging your garden.</b>

Preparation of a conventional garden involves loosening the soil to add oxygen for the plant's roots to extract. Once again, as soil isn't used with hydroponics, this means one less time consuming job for you to do.

Plants grown hydroponically extract oxygen from the nutrient solution via their roots. The oxygen can quite quickly be used up, so it's important that it's replaced. The way it's replaced depends on which system is used. The most common hydroponic system is the passive system, which uses an aquarium bubbler to put oxygen back into the solution.

Plants can be grown rapidly without all the concerns of regular gardening. Although a hydroponics system can take some time to set up, you'll find it's well worth the effort.

For more information on hydroponics and the advantages over regular gardening go to http://www.about-hydroponics.info/information-on-hydroponics.html

About the author: Stephen Provis has an interest in plants and home gardening, and is owner of http://www.ultimate-hydroponics.info

How To Install a Lawn Sprinkler System

Author: S McKenzie

Scott Young reveals his tips and techniques in a new guide that shows how to install an automatic lawn sprinkler system in 6 days or less and save 67% of the cost.

‘As a lawn sprinkler service professional for over 7 years, I have seen many people waste hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars on unnecessary installation fees. The very same job could have been done by them with the same quality for a fraction of the price.’ says Young ‘ I have managed my own lawn sprinkler business for 3 years as a licensed irrigation contractor in Florida. Having designed, installed, and repaired sprinklers systems in hundreds of homes, I ran into many clients who wanted to learn how the system worked, so they could either do their own repairs or even build a system of their own.’ More http://tinyurl.com/4w7wg

‘I then decided to put together this guide to help the average homeowner design and install his or her system quickly and without the headache or hassles of doing complicated mathematical equations. Not to mention cutting out the costs and difficulty with dealing with contractors. I looked around on the Internet to see what kind of information was available to the average person looking to design and install their own sprinkler system. To my surprise, I could not find anything anywhere that was accurate or easy to understand. People don't want to, nor have the time to, take classes to learn sprinkler design when they just want to water their lawns!’

‘How To Build Your Own Automatic Lawn Sprinkler System’ is tailored for the everyday homeowner. Topics covered include:
Explanation of the ease of installing your own sprinkler system in 6 days or less, Discover the ‘make or break’ secret that could cost you hundreds each month on your water bill, The 16 no-hassle steps to cut your installation time in half, How to set a watering schedule to maximize the efficiency of your new automatic sprinkler system and more.

For more information, please visit: http://tinyurl.com/4w7wg

About the author:
Simon McKenzie is a freelance web designer and marketing consultant. http://tinyurl.com/4w7wg


Your Keywords - No Bidding - 6 Hour Placement
A New Kind of Paid Inclusion from ExactSeek
Sign Up Today and Receive FR-E-E Bonus Software

< http://www.exactseek.com/featured_listings.html >

Insecticides & Fungicides/Spreader-stickers, Wetting Agents: Getting the most out of Your Sprays

Author: Thomas Ogren

Article: Spreader-stickers, Wetting Agents: Getting the most out of Your Sprays

Thomas Ogren

Spreader-stickers or if you prefer, sticker-spreaders, are agents we can add to garden sprays to make them more effective. These additives are commonly used in commercial horticulture and in agriculture, but for some reason are as yet relatively unknown to most gardeners. Sticker-spreaders can be made of many different components, organic or inorganic. Often the actual ingredients in a particular brand of sticker-spreader will be kept secret, as a proprietary formulation known only within the company producing it. Some brands use silicone-based surfactants, oils, emulsifiers and buffering agents, while others may use odd combinations of things like fish oil and fatty acid soaps. Several are made entirely from some sort of emulsified soybean oil. Actually, common dish soap will act as a sticker-spreader, it just won’t be as effective. To be totally technically correct here, sticker-spreader is a combination of two adjuvants. Adjuvants are materials added to spray mixtures to increase the effectiveness of the main active ingredient. If we want to be completely correct with our terminology here, we probably ought to note too that spreaders are adjuvant surfactants. Surfactants are adjuvants that reduce surface tensions of solutions, helping them spread and cover leaves more effectively. Stickers are adjuvants that aid in the attachment to a surface. The water-soluble wax product often used to spray Christmas trees to keep them turgid, Wiltpruff, is also sometimes used as a sticker-spreader. I recently did some comparison spraying of roses in my own garden. I was spraying the roses with a homemade combination to keep the darn deer from eating them into the ground. With both batches of spray I used, per gallon of water, two raw eggs, four cloves of garlic, and a cup of skim milk. I blended all the ingredients in a blender before putting them in the sprayer. I sprayed two different sections of roses. In the first section I used the above mix, with the addition of 6 tablespoons of dish soap. In the second section of roses I used the same mix but used two tablespoons of a commercial grade sticker-spreader. What was the difference? Both sprays did keep the deer from eating the roses, for awhile. The spray with soap resulted in roses that were not eaten for six nights following the spraying. Deer did not eat the roses sprayed with the sticker spreader mix for 15 nights. It seemed obvious to me that the sticker-spreader had indeed locked the smelly spray material onto the roses better than had the soap. Sticker spreader is sometimes used to make leaves on foliage plants shinier, and this works pretty well, too. If, for example, you are just spraying your roses with insecticidal soap (for aphids) and a little baking soda (for rust and mildew control) mixed with water and a bit of sticker-spreader, you’ll immediately notice that the spray does stick to the leaves better and it also make them shine. Spreader-stickers can also have somewhat of a synergistic affect when used with insecticides. It not only helps the insecticide adhere better to plant surfaces but it also helps the insecticide penetrate the bodies of insects it contacts. Perhaps most importantly, spreader-sticker also protects the insecticide or fungicide from washing off in the rain and from breakdown from sunlight. I think I paid less than five dollars for a pint of spreader-sticker at a local nursery. A little bit goes a long way, so it seems inexpensive enough. Some of the insecticides I like most, organic botanical-based ones such as Neem are kind of pricey, and using sticker-spreader gets me more bang for my buck.

About the author: Tom Ogren is a nationally know gardener and has appeared numerous times on HGTV. His website is www.allergyfree-gardening.com

Tuesday, August 29, 2006

The Beautiful Garden

Author: Irvin L. Rozier

Article: The Beautiful Garden

Matthew 13:3 “And He spoke many things unto them in parables, saying, “Behold, a sower went forth to sow.”

Every time I read the above passage of scripture, I’m reminded of a good friend of mine, Dorsey. When I was growing up, I helped a local farmer and developed some friendships that lasted. Dorsey also worked for this farmer. My daddy, Reverend A. J. Rozier, was their pastor, so they nicknamed me “preacher”. After years spent in the U.S. Army, I came back home and renewed my friendship with Dorsey. He had married later on in life, and both he and his wife loved the Lord. They especially enjoyed southern gospel singing. In fact, Dorsey was a right good singer himself. I would often visit with them, talk about the Lord, and sing a few songs for them. Dorsey’s wife, Amanda, wasn’t in the best of health and Dorsey had suffered from the disability from the wreck he was in while a teenager. One day, Dorsey called me and asked me if I could “lay off” a straight row. You see, he wanted to plant a garden. Well, I said “Sure, I’ll be over soon.” Well, we got his old Allis Chambers tractor hooked up to the planters and I commenced to “layoff” the first straight row. It was so curvy it resembled a “C”! I told Dorsey that was contour plowing, and we could get more on a “C” row instead of a straight row. Well, ole Dorse crawled on that old orange tractor and planted corn, beans, okra and just about everything else. A few weeks later, he called me and asked me to come over and help him set up the tractor so that he could plow his garden. I went on over and took a look at his garden-it was beautiful! He told me that it was the best garden he had ever had. As I looked at the sweet corn, I noticed that some plants were about 12 inches high while other plants were six to eight inches high. The old planter had skipped, and Dorsey and Amanda thought I had slipped over in the night and replanted the corn. I said, “No, I haven’t done that.” Then Dorsey said, “It was the Lord who has blessed this garden.” A few weeks later, the Lord awakened me from my sleep. It was about two a.m. I had been dreaming. In this dream, I went over to Dorsey’s house. There were many people there cleaning up, Amanda came to the door, and I asked “Where is Dorsey?” She pointed across the road and there he was, all dressed up in a pretty suit with a big grin on his face. He was waving bye. After waking, I said,” Lord, you’re about to take Dorsey home, aren’t you?” The Lord replied, “Yes, in a few days.” I began to weep and grieve for him. He was such an humble man, and I was happy and sad for him. About two weeks later, on Sunday night, he was strong on my mind. I called him up and asked him if he was OK. He replied, “Yes, preacher, I’m doing fine.” I told him that I loved him and appreciated him. The next Wednesday evening, he went out in the yard to feed the chickens and dropped dead with a heart attack. When I went over to his house, it was just like my dream. People were there cleaning up, and Dorsey had crossed over the road. By the way, on his funeral day, he wore the same suit as the Lord had shown me in the dream. Many is the time we had fellowship together, just the two or three of us. During these times, the Holy Spirit graced us with His presence as we talked, sang and prayed together. Dorsey longed to go home to be with his Jesus. His life was a testimony of the grace of God.

Matthew 18:20 “For where two or three are gathered together in My name, there am I in the midst of them.”

Copyright 2003, Irvin L. Rozier

About the author: author, preacher, retired military

Vegetable Gardens & Organic Matter

Author: David Selman, Tracker-Outdoors.com

Article: Organic matter improves soil as a growing medium for plants. It helps release nitrogen, minerals, and other nutrients for plant use when it decays. A mulch of partially rotted straw, compost, or undecomposed crop residue on the soil helps keep the soil surface from crusting, retards water loss from the soil, and keeps weeds from growing.Practically any plant material can be composted for use in the garden. Leaves, old sod, lawn clippings, straw, and plant refuse from the garden or kitchen can be used. Often, leaves can be obtained from neighbors who do not use them or from street sweepings.

The purpose of composting plant refuse or debris is to decay it so that it can be easily worked into the soil and will not be unsightly when used in the garden. Composting material should be kept moist and supplied with commercial fertilizer, particularly nitrogen, to make it decay faster and more thoroughly.

The usual practice in building a compost pile is to accumulate the organic material in some out-of-the-way place in the garden. It can be built on open ground or in a bin made of cinder blocks, rough boards, or wire fence. The sides of the bin should not be airtight or watertight. A convenient time to make a compost pile is in the fall when leaves are plentiful.

In building the compost pile, spread out a layer of plant refuse about 6 inches deep and add one-half pound or one cupful of 10-10-10, 10-20-10, or 10-6-4 fertilizer to each 10 square feet of surface. Then add 1 inch of soil and enough water to moisten but not soak it. This process is repeated until the pile is 4 to 5 feet high. Make the top of the pile concave to catch rainwater.

If alkaline compost is wanted, ground limestone can be spread in the pile at the same rate as the fertilizer. The compost pile will not decay rapidly until the weather warms up in spring and summer. In midsummer, decay can be hastened by forking over the pile so moisture can get to parts that have remained dry. The compost should be ready for use by the end of the first summer.

For a continuing supply of compost, a new pile should be built every year. Compost can be used as a mulch, or worked into flower beds and the vegetable garden. 

When properly prepared and thoroughly decayed, compost is not likely to harbor diseases or insects. If the compost is used in soil where an attempt is made to control plant diseases, or if it is mixed with soil used for raising seedlings, the soil should be disinfected with chemicals recommended by your local Extension agent or State agricultural college.

About the author: None

Can your sundial really tell the time?

Author: Hugh Harris-Evans

Article: ""I am a sundial, and I make a botch Of what is done far better by a watch""

So wrote Hilaire Belloc, but is this really fair? Sundials are the earliest known form of time-keeping having been used for some five thousand years. The Greek historian Herodotus stated that sundials were first used by the Chaldeans and Sumerians in Babylonia which was part of the modern Iraq. They used vertical rods on their buildings and noted the position of the shadow to record the passing of the hours. The concept was developed by the Greeks and Romans who constructed various different shapes of dial to enable them to tell the time and the season of the year. Usually these were bowl-shaped dials with vertical or horizontal gnomons (shadow-casters) and hour lines marked in the hollow of the bowl. Over the years more elaborate designs were produced until the advent of accurate clocks when the function of the sundial became more decorative than as a reliable means of telling the time.

The question is often asked ""Can a sundial really tell the correct time?"" to which you will receive the Alice in Wonderland reply that it depends upon what you mean by ""the correct time"". Our clocks and watches work on the basis of there being exactly twenty-four hours between one day and the next but, because of the eliptical nature of the earth's orbit around the sun, the time shown on the sundial will vary according to the seasons. In February by the clock the sun is almost fifteen minutes slow, whereas during the spring and summer months it gains and loses between four and six minutes in two cycles. At the other extreme in November the sundial appears to be some seventeen minutes fast. In fact the sundial is accurate on only four days of the year, about April 15, June 14, September 2 and December 25. Some sundials include a table showing the deviation from ""clock time"" according to the date.

The time indicated by the sun will also vary with the location of the dial. The sun travels across the sky at the rate of fifteen degrees per hour so every degree of longditude represents a difference of four minutes from the standard meridian for the region. The angle of the gnomon also depends on the situation, so to set up your sundial correctly you need to know both the latitude and longditude of its location. For the United States and the United Kingdom this <a href=""http://www.spot-on-sundials.co.uk/latitude.html""target=""_bl ank"">site</a> can provide the information. The gnomon should be set at the angle in degrees which is equal to the latitude of your location. The sundial can then be fixed with the gnomon pointing to the Pole Star. There are various ways of achieving this, the easiest of which, is to use a compass adjusted for the magnetic variation. Further details are beyond the scope of this article, but for those interested look at this <a href=""http://www.sundials.co.uk/setup.htm""target=""_blank"">site.</ a> If you have read this far you will have discovered that there is a great deal more to the sundial than a mere item of garden decoration. If this has piqued your interest in the subject, then you are not alone. There are Sundial Societies in countries around the world. The <a href=""http://www.sundials.org/""target=""_blank"">North American Sundial Society</a> has details of its objects and activities on its website.

A number of sundial trails have been established. A good example is the <a href=""http://www.sundials.co.uk/~thames.htm""target=""_blank"">Thame s Sundial Trail</a> in London, England. This site lists a number of other trails in countries all over the world but only two in the United States. However the <a href=""http://www.sundials.org/""target=""_blank"">North American Sundial Society</a> has a complete list on its website.

Two rather different designs are shown here. The first, which is commonly referred to as a <a href=""http://users.argonet.co.uk/education/sunclocks/""target=""_bl ank"">Human Sundial</a>, uses the person's shadow to indicate the time. By standing in the appropriate box for the date the shadow will show the correct time. The second is a <a href=""http://www.digitalsundial.com/""target=_blank"">Digital Sundial</a> which sounds like a contradiction in terms but in reality is just a rather clever design.

Many sundials have a motto inscribed on the face. Often these are rather serious in tone and of the ""Tempus fugit"" variety but you also find some written in a lighter vein. Here are a few of my favourites:

The shadow of my finger cast Divides the future from the past

The clock the time may wrongly tell, I never if the sun shines well

I stand amid the summer flowers To tell the passage of the hours

And finally again from Hilaire Belloc:

I am a sundial, turned the wrong way round. I cost my foolish mistress fifty pounds!

About the author: Hugh Harris-Evans is the owner of <a href=""http://www.garden-supplies-advisor.com"" >The Garden Supplies Advisor</a> where you will find further articles, gardening tips and product reviews.

Starting Vegetable Garden Seeds & Plants Indoors

Author: David Selman, Tracker-Outdoors.com

Article: Starting Plants IndoorsSeeds can be germinated and seedlings started in a box, pan or flowerpot of soil in a window. In addition to having at least 6 hours of direct sunlight each day, the room must be kept reasonably warm at all times.

Washed fine sand and shredded sphagnum moss are excellent media in which to start seeds. Place a layer of easily drained soil in the bottom of a flat and cover this soil with a layer - about three-fourths inch thick - of either fine sand or sphagnum moss. Press the sand or moss to form a smooth, firm seedbed.

Then, using a jig, make furrows in the seedbed one-half inch deep. Water the sand or moss thoroughly and allow it to drain.

Sow seeds thinly in the rows and cover the seeds lightly with a second layer of sand or moss. Sprinkle the flat, preferably with a fine mist, and cover the flat with a sheet of clear plastic film. The plastic film diffuses and subdues the light and holds moisture in the soil and air surrounding the seeds. Plastic films offer advantages over glass coverings in that they are light in weight and are nonshattering. Place the seeded and covered flat in a location that is reasonably warm at all times and has 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. The flat will require no further attention until after the seedlings have developed their first true leaves. They are then ready to transplant to other containers.

It is seldom possible to keep the transplanted plants in house windows without their becoming spindling and weak. For healthy growth, place them in a hotbed, coldframe, or other place where they will receive an abundance of sunshine, ample ventilation, and a suitable temperature.

Strong, vigorous seedlings can be started under 40-watt fluorescent tubes. These tubes should be 6 to 8 inches above the seedlings. Temperatures should be about 60F at night and 70F during the day. Best results are obtained if the fluorescent fixture is next to a window to increase the amount of light reaching the young plants. Soil pellets are the simplest and easiest method for starting plants and are readily available from garden supply stores and other sources. Soil pellets are a well-balanced synthetic soil mixture and are free of soilborne diseases and weeds.

Special Devices for Starting Plants In determining the type of equipment for starting early plants, the gardener must consider the temperature and other climatic conditions in his locality, as well as the nature of the plants to be started. Hardy plants, such as cabbage, need only simple inexpensive facilities, but such heat-loving, tender seedlings as peppers and eggplant must have more elaborate facilities for successful production. In the warmer parts of the United States, and in the well-protected locations elsewhere, a coldframe or a sash-covered pit on the sunny side of a building usually suffices. In colder sections, or in exposed areas elsewhere, some form of artificial heat is essential. Where only a little protection against cold damage is needed, a coldframe in which a temporary bank of lamps can be placed may be sufficient. The hotbed, lean-to, or sash greenhouse heated by manure, pipes, flues, or electricity are all widely used, the choice depending on conditions. A comparatively small plant-growing structure will provide enough plants for several gardens, and joint efforts by a number of gardeners will usually reduce the labor of producing plants. The plant-growing structure should always be on well-drained land free from danger of flooding. A sunny, southern exposure on a moderate slope, with trees, a hedge, a board fence, or other form of windbreak on the north and west, makes a desirable site. Plenty of sunshine is necessary. Hotbeds and other plant-growing devices require close attention. They must be ventilated at frequent intervals, and the plants may require watering more than once daily. Convenience in handling the work is important. Sudden storms may necessitate closing the structure within a matter of minutes. Plant growing at home should not be undertaken by persons obliged to be away for extended periods, leaving the plant structure unattended. A tight well-glazed structure is necessary where the climate is severe; less expensive facilities are satisfactory elsewhere. Covers for hotbeds and coldframes may be glass sash, fiber glass, plastic film, muslin, or light canvas. In the moderate and cooler sections of the country, standard 3- by 6-foot hotbed sash is most satisfactory. Even this requires supplementary covering with canvas, blankets, mats, or similar material during freezing weather. The amount of covering is determined by the degree of heat supplied the structure, the severity of the weather, and the kind of plants and their stage of development. Farther South, where less protection is necessary, a muslin cover may be all that is needed and for only a part of the time.

Many substitutes for glass as coverings for hotbeds and coldframes are on the market. The most widely used substitutes are various kinds of clear plastic film. Some of these have a lifespan of only one season, and others a lifespan of 3 to 5 years. Clear plastic film transmits as much light as glass in the visible range, and more than glass in the ultraviolet and infrared ranges.

The film comes as flat sheets (on rolls) and in tubular form. Flat-sheet film is used for tacking onto wooden frames; the tubular form is used for enclosing metal tubular frames with a tight double layer of film. Large plant hoods made from semicircular aluminum or galvanized steel pipe and fitted with a sleeve of tubular plastic film make excellent coldframes or seasonal row covers. When used in this way, a double layer of plastic film provides an air space that insulates against 4 degrees to 7 degrees of frost temperature change. Electrically heated plant beds are ideal for the home gardener, provided electric rates are not too high. The beds may be built any size. Because they are equipped with thermostatic control, they require a minimum of attention. It is not possible to buy frames - completely equipped with heating cables, switches, and thermostats - ready to assemble and set in position. Fill the frames with soil or plant boxes and connect to a source of current. Small frames may be removed at the end of the season and stored; larger frames are usually treated as a permanent installation. For more detailed information, see USDA Leaflet 445, Electric Heating of Hotbeds.

Hardening Plants Plants should be gradually hardened, or toughened, for 2 weeks before planting in the open garden. This is done by slowing down their rate of growth to prepare them to withstand such conditions as chilling, drying winds, shortage of water, or high temperatures. Cabbage, lettuce, onion, and many other plants can be hardened to withstand frost; others, such as tomatoes and peppers cannot. Withholding water and lowering the temperature are the best ways to harden a plant. This may be done in a glass or plastic coldframe. About 10 days before being planted in the open ground, the young plants in beds or flats are blocked out with a large knife. Blocking, or cutting the roots, causes new roots to form quickly near the plants, making recovery from transplanting in the open easier. Blocking also makes it easier to remove the plants from the bed or flat with minimum injury. Southern-Grown Plants Vegetable plants grown outdoors in the South are shipped to all parts of the country. They are grown cheaply and usually withstand shipment and resetting very well. They may not always be as good as home-grown plants, but they save the trouble of starting them in the house or in a hot-bed. Plants of beets, brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, onions, peppers, and tomatoes are extensively grown and shipped; tomato, cabbage, and onion plants make up the bulk of the shipments. The plants are usually wrapped in bundles of 50 each and shipped by either mail or express. Tomato and pepper plants are packed with a little damp moss around the roots, but onion and cabbage plants are usually packed with bare roots. Shipments involving large numbers of bundles are packed in ventilated hampers or slatted crates and usually are sent by motor-truck or rail express. Shipments by air mail and air express are increasing. The disadvantages of using southern-grown plants are the occasional delays in obtaining them and the possibility of transmitting such diseases as the wilt disease of the tomato, black rot of cabbage, and disorders caused by nematodes. State-certified plants that have been carefully inspected and found as free of these troubles as can be reasonably determined are available. Southern-grown plants are now offered for sale by most northern seedsmen, by mail-order houses, and often by local hardware and supply houses.

Transplanting The term ""transplanting"" means shifting of a plant from one soil or culture medium to another. It may refer to the shifting of small seedlings from the seedbed to other containers where the plants will have more space for growth, or it may mean the setting of plants in the garden row where they are to develop for the crop period. Contrary to general belief, transplanting does not in itself stimulate the plant or make it grow better; actually growth is temporarily checked, but the plant is usually given more space in which to grow. Every effort should be made during transplanting to interrupt the growth of the plant as little as possible.

Plants started in seed flats, flowerpots, and other containers in the house, the hotbed, the greenhouse, or elsewhere should be shifted as soon as they can be handled to boxes, flowerpots, plant bands, or other containers where they will have more room to develop. If shifted to flats or similar containers, the plants should be spaced 2 or more inches apart. This provides room for growth until the plants can be moved to their permanent place in the garden. Most gardeners prefer to place seedlings singly in flowerpots, paper cups with the bottoms pierced for drainage, plant bands, berry boxes, or other containers. When the plants are set in the garden, the containers are carefully removed. Soil for transplanting should be fertile, usually a mixture of rich topsoil and garden compost, with a very light addition of a commercial garden fertilizer.

Moistening the seedbed before removing the seedlings and care in lifting and separating the delicate plants make it possible to shift them with little damage to the root system and with only minor checks to their growth. Plants grown singly in separate containers can be moved to the garden with almost no disturbance to the root system, especially those that are hardened for a week or two before being set outdoors. Plants being hardened should be watered sparingly, but just before they are set out, they should be given a thorough soaking. Plants grown in the hotbed or greenhouse without being shifted from the seedbed to provide more room and those shipped from the South usually have very little soil adhering to the roots when they are set in the garden. Such plants may require special care if transplanting conditions are not ideal; otherwise, they will die or at least suffer a severe shock that will greatly retard their development. The roots of these plants should be kept covered and not allowed to dry out. Dipping the roots in a mixture of clay and water helps greatly in bridging the critical transplanting period. Planting when the soil is moist also helps. Pouring a half pint to a pint of water, or less for small plants, into the hole around the plant before it is completely filled is usually necessary. A starter solution made by mixing 1/2 pound of a 4-12-4 or 5-10-5 commercial fertilizer in 4 gallons of water may be used instead of plain water. It is usually beneficial. Finally, the freshly set plants should be shaded for a day or two with newspapers.

Plants differ greatly in the way they recover from the loss of roots and from exposure to new conditions. Small plants of tomatoes, lettuce, beets, cabbage, and related vegetables are easy to transplant. They withstand the treatment better than peppers, eggplant, and the vine crops. When started indoors and moved to the field, the vine crops should be seeded directly in berry baskets or containers of the same size that can be transferred to the garden and removed without disturbing the root systems. Beans and sweet corn can be handled in the same manner, thereby often gaining a week or two in earliness.

Article by: Tracker Outdoors www.tracker-outdoors.com

About the author: None

Composting and Soil Improvements

Author: David Selman, Tracker-Outdoors.com

Article: Composting provides a great natural resource!

Where we live, the soil is black clay (north Texas). We have found that by using a compost, we can almost eliminate the need for commercial fertilizers to grow most vegetables, herbs and spices.

Our compost is lined with rail-road ties (4 tall) but is open on one side for easy access. We put hay, table scraps, garden scraps, firewood ash, and manure from our cattle and horses in it. The materials in the compost are ""turned"" from time to time. The soil from the compost is great for starting new plants of all kinds as well as being tilled into the soil of the garden. This organically rich soil helps make the black clay much easier to work and provides nutrients for the vegetables. Neighbors barns and livestock auction houses are great resources for manure. Composting provides an environmentally safe way to transform biodegradable waste products into rich and fertile soil.

For those of you who suffer from a high concentration of clay in your soil, composting is the answer. Composting will supply your garden with a continual source of rich humus that will loosen up clay based (heavy) soils, allowing the roots of flowers and vegetables to penetrate the soil. For folks with sandy soils, compost will perform the opposite function: it will bring soil particles together and help retain water for plants to use, while still allowing the soil to ""breath.""

A few of the best composting materials include leaves, shredded newspaper, grass clippings, farm manure, garden waste, sawdust and vegetable peelings. Household biodegradable refuse is not recommended because it’s messy and attracts insects & rodents. These are items you deffinately don't want to use; bones, meat scraps, cat or dog manure, grease, diseased plants or walnut leaves.There are several companies that manufacture composting bins. Another option is to use scrap lumber, railroad ties or wood pallets. Make sure whatever you build is well ventilated to allow for the free movement of moisture and air, which will aid in the breakdown process. I use three wood pallets which I stand at right angles to each other. I tie these together to hold them in place. This makes it easy to access the compost, which needs to be periodically turned to aid in the breakdown stage.

Compost is a dark-colored, loose mixture of well-rotted organic matter that can be used by the gardener to improve garden or potting soil. Any organic matter such as garden waste is a good ingredient for compost. If soil is hard and crusty when dry or sticky when wet, vegetables do not grow properly. Good garden soil is loose, has high water-holding capacity and proper drainage. Put your compost pile in a well-drained area. A shady spot or a place behind bushes will shield the heap from view.

It is possible to accumulate materials in a loose pile but it is better to have an enclosure for the compost. This could be a pit dug 18 inches into the ground of any length and width or an above-ground structure. Either type of structure should be divided with a partition. One side can be used for composting material and the other for usable compost.

A rectangular pile 2 to 5 feet wide, 5 to 10 feet long and 2 to 4 feet high is adequate for most households. If space is not available, a single, tall pile can be used. Fresh material is added at the top and finished compost dug out at the bottom.

Build your compost pile in layers. First add 6 to 8 inches of garden refuse. Each layer of this organic material should be moistened. A little lime also may added to help the process and keep new soil from packing. Add 1 to 2 inches of soil. Repeat this process as composting material is available.

The top layer should be lower in the center to help collect moisture. Water may have to be added during dry weather to keep the pile going. Compost materials should be moist but not saturated.

Turn the pile with a garden fork a couple of times a month to hasten composting. In about a month the pile should be hot in the center indicating it is decomposing properly. If this doesn't happen, the pile may be too wet or too small. Fertilizer or more frequent turnings could be needed. A well-maintained, active pile will not attract rodents. When adding food scraps, bury them in the center of the pile.

Soil that is ready for use from a compost is dark, loose and has an ""earthy"" smell. Most organic materials should compost in 4-8 months.

Article By: Tracker Outdoors www.tracker-outdoors.com

About the author: None

Monday, August 28, 2006

Lawns, Gophers & Moles

Author: Thomas Leo Ogren

Article: Lawns, Gophers & Moles Thomas Ogren A few gophers can tear up a nice lawn in short order. Even if you’re a complete animal lover, you won’t want the gophers in your yard. After they destroy your lawn they’ll start eating the roots and killing your roses, fruit trees, any attempt at a vegetable garden, the bulbs you plant and so forth. Gophers and gardening don’t go together at all! The gophers got to go. I have had many run ins with gophers in my years of gardening and I’ve always been successful in getting them out of the lawn and garden. I don’t like killing them or any animals for that matter, but with gophers, they usually don’t give you much choice. Poisons Resist the urge to use gopher or mole poisons. The poisons only work so-so, and the poisoned rodents may easily be eaten by an owl, snake, cat, or fox, and then they’ll die too. If the predators are killed off the rodent population, unchecked, will quickly explode in number. Barn Owls If you’re out in the country one of the best ways to get rid of both gophers and moles is to put up nesting boxes for barn owls. These big nesting boxes are generally perched on the top of 11 to 20-foot tall poles. The boxes and their poles are placed away from the house but not too far from the lawns and yards. A nesting family of barn owls will eat thousands of rodents each season, and they are very good at catching gophers and moles. If you live in an area where palm trees grow, and you do not trim off the dead branches that accumulate below the crown, sooner or later a barn owl will move in and set up home. Take advantage of this and leave a palm tree unsheared. The incredible number of rats, mice, moles, ground squirrels, and gophers they’ll kill and eat is quite incredible. I now see in many orchards and vineyards, where they have put up these owl boxes. The owls are saving the farmers a lot of money. Nesting boxes for barn owls are usually made from plywood and the roofs are slanted so water will run off. Sometimes the roofs are shingled too. A nesting box for barn owls should be a minimum of 12 x 12 inches for the floor and at least 16 inches deep. The box should have small drain holes placed in the floor, in the corners. Small holes should be drilled around the top of the box on each side for air circulation. It is best to build the box so that it can be cleaned out easily once a year when the owls are gone. The box should have only one opening and this must be at least 3 ½ inches in diameter but not more than 5 inches wide. Too large an entrance hole will let great horned owls in and they’ll eat up the barn owls. Horned owls eat rodents too, but are not nearly as tough on rodents as the smaller barn owls. *For a place to buy good owl boxes already made (they’ll ship them to you) see the Owl Nestbox Resource Page under the links section of this book. At this site you can also find more detailed instructions on building your own owl boxes. The bottom line with barn owls is they are the most effective rodent killers in existence. The right family cat can also be a pretty good rodent catcher. Gopher snakes! I also know of quite a few people who have caught gopher snakes and then released them on their own property. The best way to catch a gopher snake or two is to drive very slowly in the country on a paved road that gets very little traffic. Pin the snake’s head down with a stick, pick it up firmly from behind the head, and stick him in an old pillow sack. They’re not poisonous but will often bite and the bites don’t feel good either. The best time to go looking for gopher snakes is in spring and early summer, just before and just after dark. Evenings that are cold and windy will produce no snakes and nights will full moons are likewise not productive. Gopher snakes are, like barn owls, designed by nature to catch and eat gophers and moles. Gopher traps There are a number of gopher traps on the market but by far the best is the old Maccabee gopher trap made of heavy wire. These are tricky to set if you’ve never done it before, so buy them at a farm supply store and ask someone there to show you exactly how to set one before you leave the store. Trapping gophers is very effective if done right. 1.Tie a wire about two feet long on the end of the gopher trap and secure it to a sturdy metal or wooden stake. 2.Find the newest, freshest gopher mound. 3.Dig out the opening of the mound with a shovel, open up the tunnel and place the trap as far into the hole as possible. 4.Pound the stake down near the hole but not into the tunnel itself. The stake and wire will insure that you don’t lose the trap. A trapped gopher may easily draw the attention of a cat, dog, hawk, owl, skunk or fox, and they’ll run off with your gopher and your trap. The wire and stake keep that from happening. 5.Leave the opening of the hole open. The light coming into the hole will serve as bait, since the gophers intended for that hole to be closed. 6.Set several traps in different holes if possible. 7.Check the traps at least once a day and re-set them if you’ve killed a gopher or if the gopher has set off the trap and gotten away.

Water, smoke bombs, and road flares Sometimes you can get the gophers, and moles too, to move out of your territory just by flooding their holes. By all means go ahead and stick the garden hose down a few holes and give this a try. Usually though, flooding them doesn’t work very well, if at all. Smoking them out works much better than flooding them. There are special gopher smoker bombs made and sold in all good nurseries and these work pretty well. What works even better than the gopher bombs are regular red road flares. You can buy road flares very cheaply too, at an auto parts store. They will usually come in several lengths and the longer ones burn longer and are more effective. At any rate road flares of any length work pretty well. Dig out the gopher mound and open up the tunnel. Light the road flare by twisting off the cap and then striking the tip of the flare with the end of the cap. Point it away from yourself so you don’t get burned. Shove the lit end of the road flare into the gopher tunnel and then shovel some dirt back over the top of the opening. Stamp it all shut tight with the sole of your shoe. You’ll see some of the smoke escaping up through the dirt. If you spot smoke coming up from another hole in the lawn, quickly go over there and plug up that hole. The smoke from road flares is sulfur smoke and it will stink out the entire tunnel. On occasion the gophers will be asphyxiated from the smoke and will die in the tunnels. More often though, they will take off for an area not anywhere near that stinky sulfur smoke. The smoke and its smell will persist in the tunnel for some time and the gophers will often simply abandon the tunnel. The gophers may well make several more attacks on your lawn and flower beds and you may need to smoke them several times and in several different tunnels to get rid of them. If the smoking doesn’t work for you, buy some gopher traps…. or get a gopher snake. Moles Gophers are much larger than moles and they dig much larger holes and tunnels too. Gopher tunnels are often fairly deep into the ground but mole tunnels often run just under the surface of the lawn. Often you can just look at the lawn and see exactly where these mole tunnels are because they are pushed up just under the surface of the lawn. Gophers come into an area to eat the plants but moles are insect eaters and they don’t actually eat any of your lawn at all. Moles seem to be much more common in high rainfall areas and are uncommon in drier, irrigated lawn areas. Moles and grubs There are many different traps made for killing moles but resist the urge to buy and use these. Poison baits for moles are not a good idea either. The moles are tunneling through your lawn for a reason. If you have moles in the lawn, you can be assured that you also have a lot of grubs in the lawn too. The moles are eating these grubs. The grubs can be up to about an inch long and they are usually white or gray and often have brown heads. Areas where grub infestations are especially thick will often show patches of lawn dying from the grubs. Grubs or Dogs? If you have a dead patch of lawn where the center of the patch is totally dead but the edges of the patch are extra green, this damage isn’t from grubs, it’s from dog urine. The nitrogen in the urine fertilizes the lawn that it doesn’t outright overdose and kill. This is why the edges of the patch will be greener than the rest of the lawn.

Skunks? Sometimes a grub-infested lawn will attract nighttime raids by skunks. The skunks (and occasionally raccoons too) will tear up pieces of your lawn as they dig up the grubs to eat. The solution here is much the same as it is for getting rid of the moles. If the moles eat up all the grubs in your lawn they’ll move on to a new grub-filled area. Of course, in the process they’ll tear up your lawn. So, what to do? The most obvious answer is to kill off the grubs in the lawn. These grubs are larvae from any number of insect pests, and in the lawn they are also important pests of the lawn. Left unchecked, the grubs may well destroy most of your lawn by themselves. There are a number of organic or inorganic methods of killing off lawn grubs. Flooding the lawn seems to help to bring the grubs up closer to the surface, where they’ll be easier to kill. Look for sources of these bio-controls in the Links section of this book, under IPM. IPM is short for integrated pest management and it is often very effective and safe. Most of the soil grubs are larvae of some kind or other of beetle. If the grubs are larvae of Japanese Beetles they can be attacked with Milky spore, which is an organic product that only attacks Japanese Beetles. There are bio-controls, safe biological agents that kill soil grubs. Heterorhabditis bacteriophora nematodes have shown good results for white grub control. Nematodes are tiny soil wireworms. This particular species will find the white grubs and kill them. These beneficial nematodes are available in mail order catalogs, often sold as Hb nematodes. They should be applied to already thoroughly watered lawns late in the day and then watered in immediately. These nematodes will not damage the lawn or other garden plants. Nematodes work fastest in sandy soils and slower in heavy, clay soils. Organic insecticides can also be used as a drench on your lawns and sometimes they’re quite effective. A mix of water, soap, pyrethrum and rotenone will often kill most of the grubs. Even organic insecticides though will also kill off earthworms and other beneficial soil organisms. Chemical control For a chemical approach, a single treatment can be made between mid-July to mid-August. Commonly used chemical insecticides are chlorphyrifos (Dursban), carbaryl (Sevin), and soil diazinon. The pesticide must be watered into the soil well after use, or it won’t be effective. Keep in mind that none of these chemical insecticides are healthful for the family dog, cat, the kids, or for the songbirds that might well eat some of the chemically poisoned earthworms or grubs. Some lawn experts will recommend use of the chemicals trichlorfon (Dylox), imidacloprid (Merit), or halofenozide (GrubEx) in mid-summer as a preventative measure against lawn grubs. Other preventative measures ·Keeping a lawn healthy won’t keep grubs and moles out of it, but a healthy lawn can recuperate much faster after attack. · Mowing the lawn too short will weaken a lawn and make it more easily damaged by grubs. Mowing higher promotes a stronger root system. There is evidence too that grubs, as with most insect pests, will attack an unhealthy lawn before they do a healthy one. ·Keeping the nitrogen levels up and maintaining a good amount of humus in the soil sometimes helps to lessen the chance of grub damage. Grubs will attack any species of lawn, although the worst damage is usually seen on bluegrass lawns. ·Aerating the lawn makes for stronger roots and it also gives birds a better shot at picking out these grubs. Many birds that are attracted to our birdfeeders and suet feeders also will eat both the grubs and the beetles that the grubs come from. Encourage wild birds in your yard. ·When you water, water deeply. This will also help develop a stronger root system. ·Over-seed bluegrass lawns each spring with a mix of fescue or perennial ryegrass seed. If the grubs ruin the bluegrass, you’ll still have a lawn. ·In heavily grub-damaged lawns, take a rake and rake the exposed soil up; this will expose the grubs to the birds. ·Soak grub infected areas with soapy water. Use a quart of liquid dish soap to several gallons of water and soak the lawn with this mix. It will kill grubs. ·Sometimes grubs can be held in check by dusting the lawn several times with diatomaceous earth. This safe product kills grubs that come to the surface and eat the grass leaves. ·Lastly, some people put on those spiked strap on sandals and walk around on their lawn, spearing grubs as they walk. Of course they’re also aerating the lawn at the same time. I have no idea how effective this method is, but hey, it can’t hurt.

About the author: Thomas Ogren is the author of Allergy-Free Gardening, Ten Speed Press. Tom does consulting work on for the USDA, county asthma coalitions, and the American Lung Associations. He has appeared on CBS, HGTV and The Discovery Channel. His book, Safe Sex in the Garden, was published 2003. In 2004 Time Warner Books published his latest: What the Experts May NOT Tell You About: Growing the Perfect Lawn. His website: www.allergyfree-gardening.com

Garden Soil Preparation 

Author: David Selman, Tracker-Outdoors.com

Article: Different types of plants each require varying degrees of soil acidity or pH. Some plants are very sensitive to soil pH levels. Some garden plants will prefer acid soils while others prefer an alkaline soil. The acidity or alkalinity of soil is measured by pH (potential Hydrogen ions). pH is a measure of the amount of lime (calcium) contained in your soil, and the type of soil that you have. Soils in moist climates tend to be acid and those in dry climates are alkaline. A soil with a pH lower than 7.0 is an acid soil and one with a pH higher than 7.0 is alkaline. The soil must be adjusted to suit the plant which will occupy that area if it is not already within that plants requirement range.Testing Your Soil pH Many garden centers will pH test a soil sample for you, or you can buy an inexpensive pH test kit at a nursery, or hardware stores. These test kits generally consist of a test tube, some testing solution and a color chart. You put a sample of your soil in the tube, add a few drops of test solution, shake it up and leave it for an hour or so to settle. The solution in the tube changes color according to the pH of your soil. Compare the color of the sample with the color chart that came with the kit. Matching colors will tell you the pH of your sample. Quality pH test kits will have a chart to help interpret the test result.Adjusting Your Soil pH Levels Once you have determined the pH you can make any needed adjustments to the soil. Materials to adjust your soil pH levels are available at your local garden center.Raising The Soil pH To Make It More Alkaline It is generally easier to make soils more alkaline than it is to make them more acid. Because different soil types react in different ways to the application of lime you will have to add more lime to clay soils and peaty soils than you will in sandy soils to achieve the same result.

To increase your pH by 1.0 point and make your soil more alkaline: Add 4 ounces of hydrated lime per square yard in sandy soils Add 8 ounces of hydrated lime per square yard in loamy soils Add 12 ounces of hydrated lime per square yard in clay soils Add 25 ounces of hydrated lime per square yard in peaty soils Correction of an overly acid soil should be considered a long term project, rather than trying to accomplish it in one gardening season. It is easier to test your soil each year and make your adjustments gradually. The addition of hardwood ash, bone meal, crushed marble, or crushed oyster shells will also help to raise soil pH levels.Lowering The Soil pH To Make It More Acid If your soil needs to be more acidic, sulfur may be used to lower the pH if it is available.  To reduce the soil pH by 1.0 point: Mix in 1.2 oz of ground rock sulphur per square yard if the soil is sandy. Mix in 3.6 oz per square yard for all other soils.  The sulphur should be thoroughly mixed into the soil before planting. Sawdust, composted leaves, wood chips, cottonseed meal, leaf mold and especially peat moss, will lower the soil pH. More Soil pH Tips Always read and follow the manufactures recommendations when using chemical products. Use appropriate protection such as a dust mask, and gloves. The best way to adjust pH is gradually, over several seasons. Lime should be applied only when tests show it to be necessary. If the soil is excessively alkaline, you may find that you are better off to build a raised bed using topsoil purchased from a nursery.

Article by Tracker Outdoors www.tracker-outdoors.com

About the author: None

12 Worst Trees to Plant in Your Lawn

Author: Thomas Leo Ogren

Article: 12 Worst Trees to Plant in Your Lawn Tom Ogren

1.Fruitless mulberry trees: roots break lawnmowers and these trees really pump out the allergenic pollen. Shade is also too deep for lawns. 2.Sweetgum trees: big roots that poke out of the lawn. 3.Pine trees: root problems and pollen too. 4.Sycamore trees: usually grow way too large for most yards and they produce fuzz that makes people itch. 5.Cedar trees: a female cedar is a nice, pollen-free tree, but grows way too large for most houses and yards. 6. Magnolia trees: these have shallow roots and if you ever have to rototill your yard, if you have a magnolia tree in the lawn, you’ll be sorry. Shade is too dense too for most lawns. 7.Lombardy poplars: these common trees grow fast and die young, leaving you with a huge mess. They also are male and produce lots of pollen. 8.Olive trees: unless it is a Swan Hill or some other non-flowering olive, this one will cause all kinds of allergies. The olives are a big mess too. 9.Walnut trees: nothing grows well under them and they produce lots of pollen and also smelly walnut fruit husks that draw flies. 10. Brazilian Pepper trees: roots are a problem for mowing, the shade is too deep for lawns, and they cause skin rashes and other allergies. 11. Seedless or fruitless Chinese Pistache trees: big producers of the most allergenic pollen. Slow to leaf out in spring. 12. Catalpa trees: slow to leaf out in spring and fast to lose their leaves in the fall. No real fall color at all and they are known to shed considerable amounts of allergenic pollen each spring.

About the author: Thomas Ogren is the author of Allergy-Free Gardening, Ten Speed Press. Tom does consulting work on for the USDA, county asthma coalitions, and the American Lung Associations. He has appeared on CBS, HGTV and The Discovery Channel. His book, Safe Sex in the Garden, was published 2003. In 2004 Time Warner Books published his latest: What the Experts May NOT Tell You About: Growing the Perfect Lawn. His website: www.allergyfree-gardening.com

Organic Gardening Is Cool

Author: Joe Hickman, HaLife.com

Article: Gardening can add more quality to the way you live, and might even add quantity to your life. There are many benefits of gardening, particularly organic gardening. It's so much fun you may even forget what's bothering you.

Organic gardening is growing vegetables and fruits using whatever nature provides.

Organic gardening is cool.

1. It's not as boring.

You can easily make his own compost from garden and kitchen waste. Though composting takes a little longer than buying prepared chemical pesticides and fertilizers, it's surely less expensive and more rewarding.

2. Fewer chemicals on the food you and your family consume.

Pesticides contain toxins that have only one purpose -- to kill living things. One of the best known benefits of organic gardening is the zero tolerance for pesticide use, also the biggest reason for the boom of organic gardening.

3. Less harm to the environment.

Organic gardening has a beneficial effect on ground water. The Environmental Protection Agency says 38 states have multiple cases of contaminated ground water.

Organic gardening helps fight topsoil erosion. The Soil Conservation Service says commercial farming causes an estimated 30-32 billion tons of soil erosion from U.S. farmlands every year.

4. Saving money.

You don't need to buy costly chemical fertilizers and pesticides. Organic gardeners continually come up with great ideas, like fertilizing with stale coffee or used coffee grounds. And planting marigolds nearby to draw aphids away from vegetables.

Make a quart of garden pest spray with water and three tablespoons of a simple mixture of one 1 tablespoon of liquid dishwashing soap and 1 cup of cooking oil.

Mulch, used to keep moisture in and weeds out, can be created from grass clippings and pine needles.

5. Organic gardening feels good. You know you're helping safeguard future generations.

On the average, a child ingests four to five times more cancer-causing pesticides from foods than an adult, which can lead to numerous diseases later in life. The organic gardener is helping give today's children a healthier tomorrow.

Who wouldn't want that?

Go ahead. Search for ""organic gardening"" and learn more right now. By spring you'll be raring to go organic.

About the author: Joe Hickman, a veteran journalist, is editor at <a href=""http://halife.com"">HaLife.com</a>.

Best Trees for Growing in Lawns

Author: Thomas Ogren

Article: Trees for Lawns

In order to be a good tree to grow in a lawn it needs a number of things going for it. In particular a good lawn tree:

1.Should be deciduous, meaning it should loose all of its leaves in the winter. This will let in light in the wintertime, when light levels are lowest. Deciduous trees also do not block any warming winter sunlight from reaching the house. Trees on the south or east sides of any house should always be deciduous, never evergreen. 2.Should have roots that do not creep upward into the lawn where they’ll be hit by lawnmowers. Roots that grow up into the lawn are a real pain, hard to get rid of, and will easily ruin a lawnmower. 3.Should be attractive, or why else even plant it? 4.Should be fairly easy to grow, not too fussy. Always select trees that are know to be disease resistant. 5.Should be able to adapt to the irrigation a lawn will receive. Certain trees grow well in lawns and others, such as oaks, do not. Plant lawn trees that will thrive in a lawn area, even if it is frequently irrigated. 6.Should be a type of tree that will not have a negative allopathic effect on the lawn. For example, eucalyptus or walnut trees produce a substance that kills off other plants below them. 7.Should produce shade that is not too deep. No grass can grow in the deepest shade. Branches on lawn trees should ideally be kept fairly high. 8.Should not produce a lot of allergenic pollen. There’s no point in planting a tree that will make you sick every year.

*Note: No lawn tree will grow well when it is young if the grass is allowed to grow right up to its trunk! I can’t stress this enough. A young tree in a lawn should have an area underneath it that is kept totally grass-free for the first 4-5 years of the tree’s growth. If lawn is permitted to grow right next to the trunk of a young tree, the tree’s growth will almost always be stunted. Even after this period of time it is better to either keep the area immediately under the tree grass-free, or to plant a low-growing groundcover under it. Trunks of young trees should never be hit with weedwackers. String- trimmers ruin the tender bark of many young lawn trees, and then stunt their subsequent growth. Keep a clean area a minimum of 3’wide under any new lawn tree. Even though a lawn has shallow roots and there is little point in watering lawns much deeper than a foot, trees will develop deep roots. To make sure your new tree grows those deep, drought resistant roots, give it a really good soaking once a month from spring until fall. Just put a garden hose near the base of the tree, turn it on low, and let it soak for a long time. Watch mulch around the trunks of young trees! Mulching trees is a good idea but keep the mulch a few inches away from the actual trunk of the young tree. In the wintertime, especially where there is snow cover, it is a darn good idea to put a wrap of ¼ inch mesh chicken wire around the trunk, to keep mice and rabbits from eating the tender young bark. Many a new tree is killed because of wintertime damage to the trunk from rodents. If you live in an area where the winter temperatures get below zero F, it is a good idea to paint the trunks of new lawn trees white. The white paint will reflect the winter sun, and will keep the sap from warming up and starting to flow in the middle of winter. Painted trees are much less likely to get “winter sun scald,” which is what they call it when the bark cracks and splits open, usually on the south side of the trunk. Use indoor grade white latex paint for this, and it is perfectly okay too, to paint some of the larger branches. This painting can be repeated each fall with good effect until the tree is about 7-8 years old. As the trees mature their bark will thicken and toughen up, and will naturally be more resistant to freezing and the winter sun. Make sure to fertilize the new trees twice each season. Use a fertilizer high in N, nitrogen, in the springtime, and a fertilizer low in nitrogen and high in potassium in the fall. Lawn grass that grows under trees may well need a bit of extra fertilizer through the growing season, as the tree roots will absorb much of the lawn fertilizer as well. There are devices with long, hollow spikes on them that screw on the end of a hose. You put the fertilizer for the tree in these contraptions, shove the spike down deep into the tree’s root zone, and turn on the hose. This is a good way to fertilize lawn trees. Existing trees and planting new lawns Many a nice lawn tree has been killed when the owner decides to plant a new lawn, and hauls in extra topsoil to spread. If you cover the roots of a tree with several inches of additional soil, you may easily smother the tree roots, killing the tree. If the soil around an existing tree needs to be raised, then you need to build a “tree well,” an area around the tree, at least four feet wide, where the original soil level is maintained. This is especially important with oak trees, which will quickly die if the soil level is raised right up to the trunk. Manure and lawn trees Never put manure right up to the trunk of a lawn tree. Fresh manure in particular is especially toxic to young trees. I have seen some pretty nice, large trees killed when their owners mulched them with a thick layer of supposedly “well-cured” horse manure. Even with compost, don’t place it right next to the trunk of the tree!

Twenty-five Recommended Trees for your Lawn

1.Red Maple ‘Autumn Glory’: Zones 3-9. a large, rounded, handsome female, pollen-free tree, loses its leaves, easy to grow in bluegrass lawns. Great fall color. 2.Red maple ‘’October Glory’: Zones 3-9 a female, pollen-free tree, does especially well in lawns and does not cast a deep lawn killing shade. 3.Red maple ‘Bowhall,’ Acer rubrum ‘Bowhall,’ is an attractive, pollen-free deciduous female tree, with excellent fall color. It grows narrowly upright and is a good lawn tree for smaller yards. Shade is not dense. 4.Crabapple ‘Molten Lava,’ Malus species, Zones 4-9. A smaller, very pretty, flowering crabapple tree, to 10’ tall, with great flowers in spring and small red fruits in fall. Does fine in well-drained lawns, and is an especially disease resistant tree. 5.Crabapple ‘Dolgo, Malus ‘dolgo,’ Zones 3-9, Pink buds open to fragrant, white flowers in late spring. Glossy, dark green foliage turns yellow in the fall and has good disease resistance. Large, almost florescent, bright red fruit ripening in early summer is excellent for crabapple jelly. A hardy tree with a spreading, upright and open habit. Does well in bluegrass lawns. 6.Crabapple ‘Red Splendour.’ Malus species, Zones 3-8. Greenish-red leaves with rose-pink flowers. Small red fruit stays on the tree well in to the winter. Good resistance to disease. An upright growing smaller crabapple tree, good in lawns. 7.Crabapple ‘Snowcloud,’ Zones 4-8, profuse double white flowers, mostly pollen-free and fruitless, bright green leaves, smaller tree, to 20 feet tall. Good in lawns. 8.Crabapple ‘Sugar Tyme,’ Pale pink buds open to fragrant, showy white blossoms that cover the tree in spring. A bounty of small, persistent, bright red fruit are produced in the fall and attract birds. This vigorous tree has crisp, dark green leaves and an upright, oval habit. One of the most disease resistant flowering crabapples. Good in lawns. To 20 feet tall. 9.Flowering plum: Prunus species, zones 4-10, a pretty, easy to grow tree, loses its leaves in fall, flowers in the spring, grows fast and likes frequent irrigations, as in a lawn. Shade is not dense. 10.Apricot trees, Prunus species, Zones 4-10: attractive, loses its leaves in fall, easy to grow in western areas, blossoms smell great, and the fruit is good. Should be pruned so that it is not difficult to mow under. Does not cast a dense shade. Good fall color too. 11.Fuyu persimmon trees, Diospyros kaki, Zones 4-10: slow growing, very attractive bark and leaves, shade not dense, fruit is beautiful, sweet and excellent, tree is female and pollen-free. Incredible fall color. 12.Pineapple Guava tree, Feijoa sellowiana, Zones 8-10, small evergreen tree. Best grown as a multi-trunked tree, to 18’ tall, gray-green attractive leaves, white-red flowers, sweet green fruit. With age the tree becomes more and more attractive, the bark ever more interesting. 13.Honeylocust trees, Gleditsia triacanthos, all Zones, a nice, medium-sized shade tree. Loses its leaves in fall, grows well in lawns, and does not cast a deep grass killing type of shade. 14.Variegated Box Elder, Acer negundo ‘Variegata’, an attractive, smaller three-leafed maple tree, with beautiful variegated green and white leaves. Deciduous, female and pollen-free, easy to grow, and does well in lawns. Shade not dense. 15.Fringe tree, Chionanthus virginicus, Zones 5-10. If you can find one that has small black fruits on it, then it is a pollen-free female tree, a much desired lawn tree. Roots go down and stay down, foliage is very attractive, leaves lost in winter, attractive, lightly fragrant bright white flowers, grows well in lawns. Shade not dense. 16.Sourwood tree, Nyssa sylvatica, Zones 4-9. A small to medium-sized lawn tree, deciduous, excellent fall color. Female sourwood trees are pollen free; look for the exceptional cultivar called ‘Miss Scarlet,’ which has no pollen, terrific red fall color, and has attractive small ornamental blue fruit. These trees thrive in acid soils and will not do well with alkaline soil. 17.Japanese Raisin Tree, Hovenia dulcis, Zones 8`-10. The female trees have small, sweet, raisin-like fruit and are pollen-free. Raisin trees have beautiful leaves, are deciduous, grow well in lawns, and do not cast a deep shade. 18.Hardy Rubber Tree, Eucommia ulmoides, best in zones 5-7, is a large shade tree that does not cast deep shade. If you can find a fruiting tree, it will be female and pollen-free too. Roots stay down and tree grows well in bluegrass lawns. 19.Pomegranate tree, Punica granatum, Zones 7-10, makes a beautiful, small lawn tree if grown as either a single-trunked tree, or as a three-trunked tree. Pomegranate thrives where summer heat is high. Loses its leaves in fall, bright yellow fall color, shade not dense, attractive orange flowers and red fruit. Will grow well in a fescue, Bermudagrass, or St Augustine lawn. 20.Bougainvillea, Zones 9-10. Not normally thought of as a tree at all, a bougainvillea can easily be trained into an unusual and quite beautiful small lawn tree. The best way to do this is to pound a strong 8’ metal stake, several feet deep into the ground, and then plant three one-gallon bougainvillea plants around the stake. Trim the plants back to one or two of the longest, most vigorous branches, and weave these up the stake. It takes about a year to develop this into a tree form. Keep the trunk leaf-free and shear the top several times a year for a lollypop shape. Best cultivars for this are ‘San Diego Red’ or the variegated ‘Raspberry Ice’ bougainvillea. There are some fantastic bougainvillea trees at Disneyland. 21.Quaking Aspen, ‘Pendula,’ Populus tremuloides ‘Pendula’ grows in all Zones. This is a medium-sized, pollen-free, female, weeping aspen tree, very attractive, good fall color, easy to grow, and is fast growing. Doesn’t cast a deep shade and grows well in most lawns. 22. Black Poplar, ‘Theves’ Poplar, Populus nigra ‘Afghanica’ or P. n. ‘thevestina’ is an attractive, medium-sized, tall, narrowly upright shade tree, winter hardy in all zones. ‘Theves’ Poplar is female, pollen-free, and has bright yellow fall color. Good in lawns where a narrow tree is needed. 23.‘Noreaster’ Poplar, Populus ‘Noreaster’ is a good, larger shade tree for lawns. ‘Noreaster’ is a sterile female tree, so no seeds and no pollen. Does well in most bluegrass lawns and is winter hardy in even the coldest zones. 24.Japanese Paper Mulberry trees, Broussonetia kazinoki, are separate sexed and if you can find a fruiting tree, it will be pollen-free. These do not cast deep shade like most of the other mulberry species and will thrive in lawns in most cool areas. Winter hardy zones in 5-9. Paperbark maple, Acer griseum, Zones 4-8. This small to medium-sized maple tree has exceptionally beautiful bark and is totally handsome at all times of the year. Paperbark maple doesn’t cast a deep shade and lawn will grow quite well underneath it. Best in soils that are well drained and slightly acidic.

About the author: Thomas Ogren is the author of Allergy-Free Gardening, Ten Speed Press. Tom does consulting work on for the USDA, county asthma coalitions, and the American Lung Associations. He has appeared on CBS, HGTV and The Discovery Channel. His book, Safe Sex in the Garden, was published 2003. In 2004 Time Warner Books published his latest: What the Experts May NOT Tell You About: Growing the Perfect Lawn. His website: www.allergyfree-gardening.com