Summer Lawn Care Tips

Author: Josh Gray

Article: Summer is just around the corner, and your lawn could probably use a little maintenance before the summer season of backyard BBQs and swimming in the pool. So what are you doing now to get your lawn ready? Lawn care is often feared as a difficult and time intensive process, but with a few guidelines and tips, you can easily have a healthy green lawn in time for the first backyard party of the season.

First of all, if you can spare a minute of your time, don't hire a lawn care "specialist" or professional landscaper. Buying your own lawn care products is cheap and easy, with hundreds of vendors offering products online and in Do-It-Yourself stores. A wide variety of products such as weed controllers to fertilizers can be found online, and usually can be found at reasonable prices, especially when you do a little online coupon searching.

Starting off on the right foot is important to reviving your lawn after winter. Fertilizer is the key to ensuring strong healthy growth of the grass in your yard. Fertilizing the grass does more than just make it green. Of course it will make it grow too, but lot's of things happen when you fertilize. Fertilizer makes the seed germinate faster, and get started out of the ground. After the grass has a good start fertilizer will make the grass get thicker and send off beneficial chemicals like Rhizomes, Stolons, and Tillers all making the grass thicker and healthier.

What most people want to know about fertilizing is - how much and when? Typically, you want to fertilize 4 times each season, spread 60 days apart. Start in early spring approximately 30 days before the growing season begins in your area, continuing through the growing season until fall. Spring fertilizing gets the grass off to a fast start giving you that rich green color everyone wants. A word of warning though, don't use too much fertilizer, follow the listed guidelines on the bag.

Mowing is the most misunderstood part of lawn care, and the most often incorrectly performed part of lawn care. Far too many people will set their mowers too low or ""scalp"" the lawn. How many times have you spent time mowing your grass in hopes of a beautiful result only to end up with brown spots? Cutting too much off the top leads to thinned out grass, and shallow root systems.

Now once you have achieved the perfect lawn, you must do regular maintenance to prevent it from going back to being a pasture. Spend a little time and money and keep it watered and you will keep the lush grass you spent your hard earned money and time on. The ideal way to water your lawn is with an Automatic Underground Sprinkler System. This way the watering is done every day that it needs it, you don't have to drag hoses, you don't waste water from over watering, and you get all of the lawn watered, not just where you happen to set the sprinkler. If you implement this type of sprinkler system, make sure to water shrubbery and annuals separate from the lawn. If you applied the same amount of water on your landscape as gets put on the lawn you would surely kill some plants from over watering.

Now that you're ready to care for your lawn, you'll need to get your supplies. Lawn care products can be found at many local gardening centers, or through many online merchants. Buying gardening supplies online is growing in popularity, and made even more economical by online coupons and discounts. For coupons on everything from fertilizers to lawn tools and equipment, check out www.CouponChief.com and easily save yourself some big bucks. Spend the extra cash on your first big BBQ of the summer and invite all your neighbors over to drool over your well manicured, lush green lawn.

About the author: Josh Gray, President of UC San Diego's Gardens Club, is a consultant to CouponChief.com. This online coupon website provides <a href = "www.couponchief.com">free coupons</a> and <a href = "www.couponchief.com">discount codes</a> to many favorite gardening websites on their home and garden coupons page.

How to Transplant Lilacs

Author: LeAnn R. Ralph

Article: Lilacs are exceptionally easy to transplant. I have transplanted many lilac bushes from the original bushes that my grandmother planted on our Wisconsin dairy farm 70 years ago. Early spring until late spring, from when the lilacs develop buds until they actually have small leaves, is the best time to transplant. If you have lilacs growing in your yard -- or if you have a friend who has lilacs -- and you would like to start some new lilac bushes, here's how:

1. Decide where you want to transplant the lilac bush or bushes.

2. Dig a hole that's about one foot deep by one foot across for each bush you want to transplant.

3. Dig up a lilac shoot from somewhere around the main bush. Lilacs spread by runners. Use a shovel to dig up the shoot because you are going to have to cut off the runner, and a trowel will not be tough enough to do the job. Choose a shoot that is approximately 8 to 14 inches high. Smaller shoots that are only a few inches high will take a very long time to mature to the point where they will have flowers. Larger shoots seem to take a longer time to recover from being transplanted before they start to grow well. Do not worry about how much root you are getting with the shoot. You will not be able to take all of the root since the roots are all connected.

4. Put the shoot in a bucket of water if you are not going to transplant it immediately so that it will not dry out. If you are going to transplant it immediately, carry it to the hole you have dug and set it in the hole.

5. Center the shoot in the hole and fill in with dirt. Leave a three or four inch depression around the shoot so you will have a reservoir for water.

6. Water your new lilac bush with a couple of gallons of water. Continue watering the bush several times a week for the rest of the season to ensure that it has a good start. From what I have observed, lilacs seem to be quite drought resistant, although like any plant, tree or bush, they will grow more if they have plenty of water. In subsequent years, water your new lilac bush from time to time, especially if rain is in short supply.

Note: I have noticed that it takes 4 or 5 years for the new bushes to grow enough to start producing flowers, although bushes that I transplanted from small shoots only a few inches high are taking longer than that.

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About the author: LeAnn R. Ralph is the author of the books ""Christmas in Dairyland (True Stories from a Wisconsin Farm"" (trade paperback 2003); ""Give Me a Home Where the Dairy Cows Roam"" (trade paperback 2004); ""Preserve Your Family History"" (e-book 2004). Sign up for the free monthly newsletter, Rural Route 2 News -- http://ruralroute2.com

Backyard Ponds

Author: Robert Dorrance

Article: Backyard ponds are a great source of fun and enjoyment. With them come all kinds of different nature. From the fish and all of the other wildlife, to all the different pond plants and flowers. It truly is a relaxing hobby, once you get it all set up.

Backyard ponds are not extremely hard to build, and once you do, they're pretty easy to take care of. The hardest part, by far, is the digging of the pond. Depending on what kind of soil you have in your region will determine how difficult it would be.

The kind of pond to have is entirely up to you. From a small preformed one, to one that's several thousand gallons that needs a liner, or anything in between.

Try and picture where you sit the most while you're outside. Now picture where a great place to put a pond would be. Is it a flat area? Is it close to an electrical supply? Is it close to a water source? These are just some of the questions you need to answer, if you're going to have one of these backyard ponds.

If you're going to have a pond of any size, you should know of some of the things that you're going to need for it. Things you must have are a water pump, a pond filter, a UV filter, and some pond plants. Other things to consider are a good pond liner, some fish, an air diffuser, some pond lighting, fish food, and a skimmer.

These are some of the things to consider if you want to have a pond. Initially, they can be kind of expensive, however, you will get a lot of enjoyment, as many other people do from their backyard ponds.

About the author: Robert Dorrance has had a pond for the last eight years and would like to share all of his different pond experiences with you. Find out more at www.Backyard-Pond-Guide.com.

Lawn Fertilizer

Author: Linda Paquette

Article: Let's not talk about lawn fertilizer. Let's talk about air. Air has oxygen and carbon dioxide and a bunch of other elements in it but mostly air is composed of nitrogen. This is good news for your lawn since the other day I read this, "Few soils have enough natural nitrogen to maintain desired turf grass quality and recuperative ability throughout the growing season." However, the good news is that grass is one of the most efficient nitrogen processors on the planet!

Now, if you want to fertilize your lawn, you can find plenty of information on how to do it from every company that sells chemical lawn fertilizers on the Internet. However, fertilizer is really just a four-letter word— food. Lawn fertilizer, like any other type of fertilizer is plant food. Unfortunately, for your lawn that isn't a dirty word, because lawn fertilizer typically does nothing for the soil. At best, it's only a temporary fix for your turf.

Fertilizer Facts

Fertilizers have three major components: •(N) Nitrogen: promotes blade growth, forms proteins and chlorophyll (the green stuff) •(P) Phosphorus: helps root, flower, and fruit development – the last two are probably elements you don't want to see in your lawn! •(K) Potassium: Helps stems and roots grow and helps your grass turn protein into nutrients (photosynthesis)

In addition, depending upon brand, fertilizers may also contain calcium, sulfur, magnesium, boron, manganese, iron, zinc, copper, and molybdenum. At first glance, this looks like a good thing— sort of like a multi-vitamin for your lawn. However, your grass, like any other plant gets its true nourishment from the soil under it. Although excess chemical fertilizers leech into the ground, many of the chemicals they contain do more harm than good to the complex eco-system that provides a continuing source of nutrition for your lawn and ultimately your turf pays the price.

The truth is that established lawns generally don't need fertilization. If you feel that you must fertilize your lawn, an established organic fertilizer will enrich your soil as well as feed your grass. Don't spoon-feed your turf. Instead, provide your turf with a balanced diet from nutrient rich soil.

About the author: Anita is editor of <a href=""http://www.lawnmower-guide.com"">Facts and Reviews about Lawn Mowers and Lawn Care</a>

Lawnmower-guide.com

Planting a Container Garden

Author: Johann Erickson

Article: If you are a person not blessed with a big sunny backyard, you need not be deprived of the joy of gardening. You just need to think on a smaller scale. The perfect solution…container gardening. Container gardening is an extremely versatile method of growing not only colorful flowers, but also herbs and even some fruits and vegetables. A container garden is especially ideal for apartment dwellers that often don't enjoy the luxury of owning any "green space" of their own. The beauty of container gardening is that they generally require minimal effort and maintenance and yet still yield beautiful results. Whether you choose to display your plants inside your home or even as an additional feature to a bigger gardening area, container gardening is a beautiful addition to any home or garden décor. With a few simple steps you too can experience the joy of growing the garden of your dreams.

<B>Choosing the right container</b> Just as there are a countless number of plants to choose from, there are just as many containers to grow your plants in. Whether you choose an elaborately decorated window box or opt for more simple terra cotta pots, your choices really are endless. It just depends on your own personal sense of style. There are some things to keep in mind, however, when choosing a container. Avoid containers with narrow openings or that are small in capacity. Small containers restrict the growth of plants and their roots and are prone top drying out very quickly. Make sure your pot allows for adequate drainage. If your favorite container has no drainage holes drill some into the bottom spacing them about ½ an inch across. If hanging baskets are your preference then line the containers with moss to increase water retention. Wooden containers are lovely but are prone to rotting. If you have your heart set on a container made of wood, try redwood or cedar, as they are more durable and relatively resistant to rotting.

<B>Choosing your plants</b> Although annuals tend to be the most popular choice for planting, virtually any plant can be grown in a container, form shrubs to tomato plants. Don't be afraid to experiment and try planting things that are pleasing to you. Some things to remember are to pick the right plant for the right container. For example, don't choose a plant a shrub or an ornamental tree in a small container. Bigger plants need bigger pots for their root system to grow properly. Also, if mixing plants in the same container, make sure they have the same light and water requirements. For example, don't plant a sun-loving plant like roses with a shade loving plant like hosta. Also keep in mind bloom times. Don't pick a combination of tulips, a spring-bloomer to be planted with autumn blooming mums. Other things to keep in mind are the mixing of colors, size, and texture. As much as it's fine to experiment you do always want to pay attention to the symmetry and balance of the container you're planting.

<B>Planting your container</b>

When putting your container garden together, fill it to within ½ inch of the top with a commercial potting mix. Do not use garden soil from your yard because it will not drain fast enough and will also pull away from the sides of the container when dried out. Potting soil is specifically designed for container gardening and often contains organic matter which helps retain moisture and also nourishes your plants. After removing your plants from their pots, gently loosen the roots and place them into your soil. Be sure to arrange them in a design that is pleasing to your eye. In containers you can place your plants closer together than you normally would to create a more lush and fuller looking plant. Add more potting soil to fill in and finish by giving your plants a good drink of water. Be aware that because there is a relatively small amount of soil in container gardens their tendency is to dry out. Therefore, be diligent about providing enough water once, and sometimes twice a day, if necessary. It is also a good idea to add a time-release fertilizer at the time of planting. Just follow the manufacturers instructions on quantity and application.

<B>General Care </b> Because container gardens lack the nutrients that garden plants naturally obtain from Mother Nature, they do require some special care. Be diligent about watering always checking for signs of dehydration and add a water-soluble fertilizer every two weeks. Also, inspect your plants for any signs of diseased or damaged leaves and remove as necessary.

For more <a href=""http://www.helpfulhomeideas.com/decorating-tips/garden-deco r-tips/"">garden decor tips</a> please visit us at Helpful Home Ideas.

About the author: Johann Erickson is a contributing writer for sites such as <a href=""http://www.helpfulhomeideas.com"">Helpful Home Ideas</a>. Please include an active link to our site if you'd like to reprint this article.

Get Off The Grass - Groundcovers For Problem Places

Author: Jean Fritz

Article: Why fight nature? If you've got an abundance of shade, thin, sandy soil, or other lawn challenging conditions, keep your sanity and your budget intact this season and install groundcover plants instead of attempting to reestablish a lawn.

Groundcovers have the advantage of requiring fewer pest controls to stay healthy and look good. Maintenance is also minimal, as most of the plants are either slow-growing or naturally dwarf. Many will accept "weed whacker" pruning periodically and if they start to break out of their bounds, the errant plants may need to be dug. Most require an application of time-released fertilizer once a year. Wouldn't it be nice to cut your chemical bills to nearly nothing?

The most ubiquitous groundcovers are Baltic ivy and pachysandra, but these aren't the only options available. Be creative! Groundcovers can be woodland natives, low-growing evergreens, or herbs. Some options for shady areas are: Canadian wild ginger (Asarum canadensis), Lily of the valley (Convallaria sp.) bloodroot (Sanguinaria) one of the many cultivars of hosta, or even the unattractive-sounding dead nettle (Lamium maculatum). These plants grow quite vigorously in shady, moist conditions, stay low-growing, and offer the additional benefit of flowers, although in the case of wild ginger, they may be inconspicuous. In addition, their leaves span the gamut of green shades available on nature's palette; hosta and dead nettle also offer two-toned or silver-toned foliage.

Sunny spots with thin, sandy soil can support low growing evergreens such as creeping juniper, Mugho pine, and false cypress quite nicely. These plants take their sweet time about growing but once they're established, they are as permanent as the house they were planted to accent. The junipers also produce small berries, which are a treat for the birds and serve as an ingredient in Alsatian choucroute for the very adventuresome cook.

The original plant used for "lawns" was creeping thyme (Thymus serphyllum). This creeping beauty is ideal for high-traffic areas, responding to the onslaught of pedestrian footfalls with heavenly fragrance. Many people grow creeping thyme as a filler in flagstone or brick walkways, but there's no reason to limit it to small spaces. Another herb that is popular as a groundcover and adapts to either sun or shade is sweet woodruff (Asperula odorata). The plant has a fernlike appearance, and the leaves smell like new-mown grass or hay. In the spring, it boasts dainty white flowers that are used to flavor German May wine.

Finally, if you believe you are a brown-thumbed gardener and nothing will work for you, take heart. There are two groundcovers that grow in sun, shade, sand, clay, and are virtually indestructible. These are the golden moneywort (Lysmachia mummularia aurea) and bishop's weed (Aegopodium variegata). Golden moneywort is a golden-leaved, low-growing creeper. It starts to color up in early spring, once the temperatures reach the mid-60s, and retains its golden hue until hard frost hits. Like most lysmachias, it is very invasive, and can choke out unwanted weeds within two to three seasons. Bishop's weed stands about 12" tall, and offers succulent, palmlike leaves in either deep green or variegated hues. Its flowers resemble those of Queen Anne's lace. And from personal experience, I can attest that it comes back stronger after burning, tilling, chopping and applications of glyphosphate herbicide. Perhaps you can kill this stuff with kindness, but nothing else works.

Using groundcovers may take you out of the "best lawn" competition with the neighbors, but they will be green with envy when your time is spent grilling and lounging rather than mowing, watering and fertilizing.

About the author: The author is a farmer and freelance writer. You can take a virtual tour of her farm at http://clik.to/kittyvista

Caring For Tropicals And Exotic Flowers

Author: Gerry Belvedere

Article: Tropical flowers make an exciting change from the more traditional floral gifts such as roses and gerberas, assuming that they're available in your area. Their stark and colorful beauty makes them an impressive gift for special occasions like Mother's Day, Valentine's Day, birthdays and anniversaries.

If you're lucky enough to grow tropical flowers such as heliconias or gingers in your garden, here are some tips to help them thrive and extend their shelf life as cut flowers.

1. Water your plants well and give them a big drink before cutting. This is important for foliage plants as well because some varieties "drink' very little after cutting. Instead, they live off their own sap.

Tropical plants have adapted to their natural environment which typically involves frequent but short periods of heavy rain.

Look at the flower heads and notice how the petals are "cupped" to catch and store as much water as possible. These plants drink from the top and like being wet.

Look at the pattern on the leaves. The ridges channel water down to the stem where it is absorbed into the many layers of the plant.

2. If your flowers have been out of water for any length of time after cutting, submerge them in the bath for half an hour or so.

3. Cut 3 to 4 inches off the stems and then place them in a tall vase FULL of clean water.

4. Use a spray bottle to mist them at least twice a day.

5. Change the water and re-cut the stems every 2 or 3 days.

You can double the vase life of your cut flowers by using these simple techniques.

About the author: Gerry Belvedere is a former artist who now runs her own online florist service at http://www.rosaflora-flowers.com. Rosaflora delivers flowers Australia wide and overseas and offers tips on getting the most out of your cut flowers.

A Few Simple Facts About Purple Martins

Author: Cedar Creek Woodshop

Article: Purple Martins are the largest member of the swallow family. However, in flight their wings are more triangular than other swallows.

Males are a handsome lot having a violet head and body with black on wing and tail. Females, youngsters, and first year males are light bellied and look very similar to smaller swallows.

The song of a martin is a distinctive, low pitched liquid rolling twitter and is unmistakeable.

Purple Martins have been known to build their nests in cavities of dead or dying trees, holes in cliffs, or just about anywhere from 3 to 30 feet high. But the most popular nesting place for the martin is in your own back yard int the houses you construct and put up for them. Their nests are made from leaves, grass, straw and twigs and the eggs are white and unmarked.

Purple Martins feed on a variety of flying insects, flies, bees, beetles, flying ants and moths, and here in the south, the dreaded mosquito!!

Many people build Purple Martin houses to attract martins early in the spring, which are generally well liked by the birds. They prefer the wooden condominium type houses. Most people like to paint there bird house white as white keeps the house cooler and is attractive to the birds. Aluminum and plastic is used also in the commercially built bird house, but wood is by far the best choice for keeping cool. The best height to mount your bird house is from 15 to 20 in the air, but lower heights to 10 feet will work in wide open spaces. Always be sure to put a predator guard on the pole to prevent predatory cats or other vermin from raiding the nests.

You can find just about any type of Purple Martin bird house made of Western Red Cedar at Cedar Creek Woodshop. Give it a look, won't you? Thanks

Courtesy: <a href=http://www.cedarcreekwoodshop.com/birdhouses.html>Cedar Creek Woodshop</a>

About the author: None

Are Your Houseplants Safe?

Author: Lesley Dietschy

Article: There is nothing more attractive and cheerful than a room filled with healthy green houseplants. They offer aesthetics to the interior of our homes, improve indoor air quality, and often provide emotional satisfaction to the caregiver in getting the plant to bloom or produce new growth. However, did you know that plant exposures are some of the most frequent poisonings reported to poison control centers?

There are more than 700 species of poisonous plants in the United States and many of these can be found around the home. According to the American Association of Poison Control, poisonous plants are among the three most common causes of accidental poisoning in children under 5 years old.

Some or all parts of a plant can be poisonous including the roots, stems, berries or even the nectar and pollen. There are several chemical compounds capable of poisoning that can be found in a variety of plants. Chemicals concentrated in the cells of roots, leaves, bark and seeds serve as the plant's defense against insects and animal attacks. Some of these compounds can be toxic, especially if ingested or touched by humans.

The word "poisonous" generates many kinds of reactions and the majority of them are non life-threatening. Among the key effects of poisonous plants are allergic reactions (caused by spores, pollen, or naturally occurring volatile compounds emitted into the air by plants), skin rash or dermatitis (caused by direct or indirect contact with allergenic or irritant compounds), and internal poisonings or irritations (caused from ingesting plants or plant parts).

There are many houseplants which are perfectly safe to grow and others which appear harmless but are toxic and dangerous. It is important to be as knowledgeable as possible about the plants you have growing in your home. According to the Washington Poison Center, the following houseplants (listed by common name) are considered safe and non-toxic, but still should not be ingested:

•African Violet •Aluminum plant •Birds Nest Fern •Boston Fern •Cast Iron plant •China Doll •Christmas Cactus •Coleus •Corn plant •Dracaena •Gardenia •Goldfish plant •Jade plant •Mosaic plant •Orchids •Peperomia •Piggyback plant •Pink Polka-dot plant •Ponytail plant •Prayer plant •Purple Velvet plant •Spider plant •Swedish Ivy •Sword Fern •Yucca plant •Zebra plant

The Washington Poison Center reports the following houseplants (by common name) to have some level of toxicity and therefore are considered to be toxic and/or poisonous. Also listed are the parts of the plant that can be toxic and what effects it has on humans if ingested.

Caladium: a showy plant with variegated, heart-shaped leaves. The whole plant is injurious and causes irritation to the lips, mouth, and throat if ingested. This plant can also be dangerous for animals if ingested.

Calla Lily: a flowering plant with smooth-edged arrow-shaped leaves which grow on long stalks. The leaves are toxic and cause intense burning of the lips and mouth if ingested. Contact dermatitis is also common.

Devil's Ivy: a climbing vine with large heart-shaped leaves that are usually streaked with yellow. The whole plant is toxic and causes a burning sensation in the mouth when eaten and dermatitis when touched.

Dumb Cane: tall, erect plants with large oblong leaves splotched with ivory markings. The leaves are toxic and chewing on the leaves produces immediate and intense pain followed by swelling of the mouth.

Jerusalem Cherry: an ornamental houseplant that has bright red berries about the size of cherries. The leaves and berries are toxic and causes a burning sensation in the mouth and throat, followed by gastric irritation and fever if ingested.

Philodendron: climbing vines with aerial roots and heart-shaped leaves. The leaves are toxic and cause painful burning of the lips, mouth, tongue, and throat if ingested. Contact dermatitis is also common and can be dangerous to animals if ingested.

Children under the age of six are at the greatest risk for accidental poisoning. They are curious by nature and often investigate their surroundings by putting things in their mouths. Obviously, the best prevention of plant poisonings is to teach your child to avoid the plants that are dangerous to touch and to resist the urge to taste even the most tasty looking berries and sweet smelling flowers. Below are five more suggestions to help you and your family avoid possible plant poisonings:

1. Learn the names (common and scientific) of all plants in your home, garden, and landscaping and know which ones are poisonous. Make a list of these plants and keep it handy in case of an accidental poisoning.

2. Put all poisonous houseplants out of the reach of children and pets.

3. Stored labeled bulbs and seeds out of the reach of children and pets.

4. Do not use flowers or other plant materials for food decorations or in cooking unless they are labeled "edible".

5. Don't assume a plant is safe because birds or other wildlife eat it.

No matter how careful we are, accidents can and do happen. It is important to place the Poison Control Hotline phone number (800-222-1222) near the telephone so you can reach them quickly in the event of an accidental poisoning. To better assist the poison experts, you will need the common and/or scientific name of the plant in question. If at any time you are in doubt about a particular houseplant, take it to your local nursery or garden center for identification and what possible toxic characteristics the plant may have. Finally, the above lists name just a few of the non-toxic and toxic plants that exist today. You should consult the appropriate reference books or poisonous plant guides for a complete list. To research non-toxic and toxic plants on the internet, visit www.poison.org or visit www.vth.colostate.edu/poisonous_plants/report/search.cfm.

About the author: Lesley Dietschy is the creator/editor of The Home Decor Exchange, a popular home decor, garden decor, and home improvement website. Please visit the website for quality resources, articles, ideas, tips, decorating pictures, free projects, and much more. The website also has a shopping marketplace and a unique Gallery featuring Pine Needle Baskets and Gourd Art. http://www.HomeDecorExchange.com

Proper care of perennials in the garden

Author: Tony Robinson

Article: Perennials have much to recommend them, including of course their famed ability to regenerate year after year. After all, while the longevity of perennials varies from variety to variety, some, especially peonies, have been known to last for decades.

Even though not all perennials are so long lived, in order to be called a perennial a plant must have the ability to come back for at least two consecutive years. This longevity makes perennials a great choice for gardeners.

Even though perennials are generally very hardy, it is still important to get them off to the right start, and to provide them with the care they need to grow and thrive.

Choosing the most healthy perennials is the first step. Most perennials are purchased in either four inch containers or one gallon containers, depending on the size and quantity purchased. In addition, some mail order and internet sources of perennials ship their plants as bare root plants. Wherever you buy them, however, it is important to care for them properly, both before, during and after they are planted. Doing so is the best way to ensure a garden full of beautiful plants year after year.

Most types of perennials like soil that is rich in organic matter. Therefore, it is important to have your soil analyzed, and amended if necessary, before using it for your perennial bed. Soils that do not contain sufficient nutrients should be enriched with compost, aged manure or other organic materials.

Even though it is best to provide most perennials with a rich organic soil, a surprising number of perennials are able to live well in poorer quality soils. Even though they can grow in poor soil, however, they will provide better blooms if the soil is enriched.

Sunlight is also important to perennials, with many varieties doing very well in full sunlight, while other varieties do better in partial shade or filtered sunlight, especially in a hot climate. It is important to consider the need for sunlight when planning your perennial garden.

The needs for water also differ among varieties of perennials. While some perennials prefer large amounts of water, other varieties can get along with little water. In addition, most varieties of perennials do best with an annual feeding. This annual feeding can consist of either working the organic materials in the regular soil in the spring or fall or by using a good quality fertilizer. When using fertilizer, it is best to fertilize in the springtime.

When buying perennials, it is important to take into account how large the plant will grow at maturity, and therefore to provide enough space for the adult plants to grow. Some perennials can grow to heights in excess of seven or eight feet so it is important to determine how large that tiny seedling will grow when you plant it. Planting the seedlings with the adult dimensions of the plant in mind will save you lots of headaches in the future.

Since perennials come back year after year, it is important to trim and prune them properly during and after each growing season. The process of deadheading, or removing spent flowers, is important to keeping a perennial garden blooming season after season. Removing spent blossoms will encourage more growth and keep the plants at their healthiest.

Trimming and pruning can also make the perennial garden more attractive. It is a good idea to cut back the stems and foliage by a third at the end of each growing season. This trimming will provide for a round of new growth when the new season takes hold.

About the author: Tony Robinson is an international author and webmaster. In his busy life he finds time to ""Smell the Roses"". For geat tips, techniques and articles visit http://www.rose-bloom.com

How to Transplant Irises

Author: LeAnn R. Ralph

Article:

In my experience, irises are among the easiest flowers to transplant.

One spring many years ago, an older friend of mine dug up an iris bed at her home. They were bearded irises -- a lovely shade of lilac purple -- and she moved some of them to a different location. The irises had already started to grow and were about four inches high. She didn't know what to do with the remaining irises, so she put them in a box, intending to give them away.

As it turned out, the irises remained in the box for more than two weeks. By now, she didn't feel she could give them away because she didn't think they would grow. I offered to take the irises and plant them, just to see what would happen.

The irises were not one bit bothered about being in a box for more than two weeks with no water and no dirt around their roots. I planted them, they started growing, and they're still going strong more than 25 years later.

In the past two decades, I have thinned out the irises and planted them in other locations. I have also found irises growing by old homesteads where no buildings remain (I live in rural Wisconsin) and have dug them up and transplanted them in my yard. Each year in early June, the irises bloom in a variety of colors: white, blue, yellow and purple.

Here's how to transplant irises:

1. Prepare the new flower bed where you intend to plant the irises.

2. Use a shovel to dig up the roots that you want to transplant. Irises have very tough root systems. If the irises are exceptionally thick, a trowel probably won't do the trick. Stick the shovel into the dirt among the irises and start digging. And don't worry about cutting the roots with the shovel. You won't be able to avoid it. Irises spread by their roots, so many of the plants will be connected. Even a short section of root stands an excellent chance of transplanting.

3. Dig holes with a trowel about four inches deep and eight to ten inches apart. Put the iris roots into the holes and cover with soil.

4. Water the transplanted irises thoroughly. For the remainder of the season, water the irises a couple of times each week, especially when rain is in short supply.

Observations about irises:

1. From what I have seen of the irises growing in my flower beds, they are tough plants that are quite drought resistant. Like any plant, they will do better when they receive plenty of water, but during years when it has been dry, they have still survived extremely well. And of course, the irises that I dug up from old homesteads didn't have any help at all during drought years, and *they* made it just fine.

2. The irises in my yard seem to do equally well in full sun or in partial shade.

3. Trimming the iris leaves after the plants are done blooming to give more room and more light to other plants nearby doesn't seem to bother the irises. For the past couple of years, I have trimmed irises growing next to my rose bush, and the following year, the irises have come back as strong as ever.

********************

LeAnn R. Ralph is the author of the farm books ""Christmas in Dairyland (True Stories from a Wisconsin Farm"" (trade paperback 2003); ""Give Me a Home Where the Dairy Cows Roam"" (trade paperback 2004); ""Preserve Your Family History (A Step-by-Step Guide for Interviewing Family Members and Writing Oral Histories"" (e-book 2004). You are invited to sign up for the free monthly newsletter, Rural Route 2 News -- http://ruralroute2.com

About the author: LeAnn R. Ralph is the author of the farm books ""Christmas in Dairyland (True Stories from a Wisconsin Farm"" and ""Give Me a Home Where the Dairy Cows Roam"" (trade paperback 2004); http://ruralroute2.com

How to Decorate Your Garden Using Profound Garden Statues that Bring Your Yard to Life

Author: Candice Pardue

Article: Garden statues are commonly used to enhance the look and feel of a garden or yard. Many people use them to reflect a favorite character, theme or animal. Using garden statues that you'll enjoy for many years is one key to success for your beautiful garden decor.

How to Choose the Right Garden Statues

Selecting the proper garden statues for your particular decor is the first step, and not one to be taken lightly. You'll probably keep your garden statues for many years to come, so you'll want to be sure and choose statues that you will love!

There are several different types of statues available. Metal, concrete and copper are three of the most common. Copper is becoming popular quickly due to its ability to endure harsh weather without cracking (such as can occur with concrete) or rusting (which can occur with metal). The choice is yours, however, depending solely on the look you wish to accomplish with your statues.

Note About Copper: With age and weathering, copper will only increase in beauty. Instead of rusting, the copper will turn a greenish tint which will enhance your garden even more. This is perhaps one of the greatest advantages of using copper statues.

Selecting a Theme for Your Garden Decor

Many people make the mistake of adding all different types and themes of statues to their yard or garden decor. This only causes your yard to appear disorganized. Choosing an overall theme for your yard or garden decor will help you to decorate with style and also simplifies the process.

For example, if you decide to decorate your yard with a ""bird"" theme, you could find statues with birds, birdhouses, flowers, trees, etc. The purpose of finding a theme is to help create a certain mood in your garden. Another theme idea is ""angels"", which could be topped off by statues of different sizes and shapes, children angel figures as well as grown angel figures, creative religious statues that go well with the angel statues. Your only limit is the sky!

Whatever your theme, be sure it fits well with the overall look and feel of your garden or yard.

Some Common Themes Are Below: <ul> <li><A href=""http://www.onlinediscountmart.com/garden-gnomes.html"">Gnome s</a> (water gnomes, winged gnomes) <li>Angels and Cherubs <li><a href=""http://www.onlinediscountmart.com/anscul.html"">Animals</a> (birds, lions, pigs, cows, butterflies, etc.) <li>Children <li>Monumental <li>Flowers </ul> Create a Focal Point in Your Garden with a Garden Statue

One favorite use of <a href=""http://www.onlinediscountmart.com/gardec.html"">garden statues</a> is to draw attention to one particular spot in your garden or yard. For example, you may want a section of flowers to receive exceptional attention. A garden statue placed among the flowers will draw the eyes directly to the location. Small statues can be used to draw the eyes to low-lying plants, shrubs or vegetation. Garden statues add a dramatic effect to your decor, while also telling a story.

Using a Garden Statue as a Memorial

If you would like to set up a memorial for a loved one, a garden statue is a great way to do so. Placing a memorial statue near flowers will help remind you of your loved one each year when the flowers bloom.

Adding garden statues to your garden decor is a great way to enhance your garden without a lot of maintenance, and you can enjoy them year after year.

About the author: Candice Pardue writes for <a href=""http://www.onlinediscountmart.com"">Online Discount Mart</a> and <a href=""http://www.tvproducts4less.com"">TV Products 4 Less</a>. Please include an active link to our site if you'd like to reprint this article.

Origin of Lawn Furniture

Author: Johann Erickson

Article: Did you ever wonder where "lawn" furniture originated? In the 1800s as people began to enjoy their gardens and patios, furniture was set outside, but had to be brought in during inclement weather. The answer of course, would be furniture made for the outdoors.

And that's what Thomas Lee came up with in 1903, while vacationing with his family in 1903, at Westport, New York. He wanted something comfortable, and suited to the sloping grounds of his cottage. So he went to work with a saw, and a single plank of wood, cutting out only eleven pieces that he assembled into what is now known as the Adirondack chair.

This basic, flat slat chair, usually with a fan shaped back, also tilted slightly in its positioning, to make it suitable to the uneven ground where Lee's family spent the summer.

Intrigued by the outcome, and needing a source of winter income, his friend Harry Bunnell patented the chair, and began turning them out in his workshop during the cold months, to sell to the summer population. His creations were all made of hemlock, then painted in dark greens or browns, and signed.

The hallmark of the Adirondack chair, is its wide, flat armrests, supremely comfortable in the many forms of outdoor furniture that are now included as part of the Adirondack style. With the solid wood construction, and adequate coating to protect it against the rain and sun, these bits of Americana will last for years.

Today, the chairs come in a wide variety of colors, and have expanded into love seats, gliders, and other forms of outdoor furniture that are still clearly recognizable by their slat construction, and the standard armrests.

You can choose chairs by color to suit the predominant color in a garden. For example, if you're growing herbs, many of which flower in blues and purples, there are violet Adirondack chairs. Perhaps you'd rather have the chairs to match your house trim, in which case there are red, yellow, indigo, and orange models. And of course, you can still get the "original" green chair.

Artist Joel Sisson of Minneapolis, Minnesota, wanted to make a "big" thing of <a href=""http://www.onlinediscountmart.com/adirondack-chairs.html"">A dirondack chairs</a>, and built a gargantuan example and placed it on his front lawn in 1996. The chair was stolen, so he built another. It too, was stolen. To make sure the Adirondack chair didn't disappear into the night forever, Sisson then built 90 of the chairs, and enlisted the help of local high school students to paint them a sea foam green. The chairs were distributed in pairs, to neighbors along a city block, and displayed on their lawns.

In celebration of their successful vanquishing of the chair thieves, Sisson took ten of his students, two giant chairs, and 50 regular sized ones, and hauled them to the National Mall in Georgetown, where the slats were assembled, painted, and put on display. The single giant chair remains there today.

About the author: Johann Erickson is the owner of <a href=""http://www.onlinediscountmart.com"">Online Discount Mart</a> and <a href=""http://www.tvproducts4less.com"">TV Products 4 Less</a>. Please include an active link to our site if you'd like to reprint this article.

Lawn Care

Author: Linda Paquette

Article: If you didn't have a healthy lawn last summer, your lawn care practices might be at the root of the problem. Actually, a healthy lawn needs very little care and quite often learning what lawn care tips not to try is the best advice you can get.

Don't over water. A healthy lawn needs about an inch of water a week and it's best if it gets it all at once. You can check this easily by digging a plastic cup into your lawn. Watering deep allows the water to sink and gives your grass incentive to grow roots and find the water. Saturating your lawn will drown the roots and watering too shallow will keep them satisfied with their present depth. Shallow rooted grass is no competition for deep-rooted weeds.

Don't over fertilize. In fact, if you rarely fertilize, both your turf and your topsoil would be better off. Aside from the fact that chemical fertilizers aren't safe for your family and the critters that live in your lawn (which are mostly beneficial), chemical fertilizers aren't safe for your soil. Although they are called "lawn food", what they really are is "turf candy". Grass, like any other plant gets its true nourishment from the soil. Don't feed the plant… learn how to feed the soil through sound organic lawn care methods.

Healthy lawn care starts with healthy topsoil. Your lawn will thrive with four inches of healthy top soil, but it will be at its best with six. The problem is how do you get more top soil without ruining the turf you already have? Simply said, topsoil is the top four to ten inches of dirt under your turf except that this layer of earth should be nutrient rich and robust with organic matter and some little critters (like earthworms). If you don't have good topsoil, you won't be able to maintain good turf. You can start building good topsoil in the fall by mulching with good organic compost. About a third of an inch of fine compost on top of your grass will fall between the blades and soak into the earth over winter.

In the spring, aerate your lawn. This will work some of the left over compost deeper and in addition give your lawn and the critters that live in the soil a breath of fresh air. Aeration also makes new channels for water to pass through and helps break up clumps of earth that impede drainage.

When mowing, mow high. Mowing high gives your grass takes weeds out of the competition for sunlight. In addition, longer grass is more apt to propagate through rhizome growth. More grass means less weeds and less weeds mean more healthy grass! Healthy grass means less lawn care and more time to enjoy your lawn!

About the author: Linda is author of <a href=""http://www.lawnmower-guide.com/product-pages/prod_lawn_care .htm"">The Lawn Care</a> section of <a href=""http://www.lawnmower-guide.com""> Lanwmowers-Guide.com</a>

Nettles The Needles Sting

Author: Judi Singleton

Article: Spring is a time of rebirth the plants all put on new green overcoats and the babies are born to the animals. As I road along today out in the country seeing, colts, calves, and lambs it reminded me that now is the time to plant the new seeds of intention for my life. Now is the time to plant seeds of intentions and actions in your life. You can energetically transform right alongside the growth of the plants and the birth of new life. While I was out on my adventure in the country today I saw one of the wonderous plants all around me sprout their new greenery. One of these was the nettle which is a plant I love it is wonderful for making herbal vinegar. It is easy to identify. The jagged leaves held in pairs along the square stems are easily recognisable particularly after having experienced the sting. The nettle sting, will wear off in a few hours. Nature always provides a natural remedy close at hand. The leaves of the dock contain chemicals that neutralise the sting and also cool the skin. The nettles sting is actually used as a treatment for arthritic joints!

Where did the nettle get its name? Problably from that the 'nettle' is derived from Noedl meaning a needle - referring the needle like sting.

Because very few grazing animals will touch nettle because of the sting it is a great place for butterflies to raise their young. One will find the small tortoiseshell and peacock butterfly larvae which feed in large groups hidden in silken tents at the top of the nettle stems. In late summer the huge quantity of seed produced provide a food source for many of our seed eating birds. Not only insects and birds are benefited by nettles but when dried into hay horses and cows feed on it. In Sweden nettles is raised for dairy cows it increases milk production. Horse breeder feed it because it is so good for the horses coat. If you are wondering why anyone would eat nettles having experienced their sting, the sting goes away with cooking. You can enjoy nettle leaves in soup, steam them when they are young and picked before they flower just like spinach or kale. Nettles are reportedly high in calcium, iron, magnesium, chromium, potassium, and zinc, as well as vitamins A, B, C, D and K. Nettles are said to nourish the adrenal glands, and are also rich in carotene. You can preserve the nettles for winter several ways. Nettle vinegar can be made by soaking fresh herbs in white vinegar. The vinegar leaches the calcium and other minerals out of the nettles, and then you can sprinkle the vinegar on salads, veggies, stir fry. Purple nettles will tint the vinegar a nice rose hue. You can use nettles in any recipe calling for spinach. Use the leftover water as a hair rinse. For centuries, nettles have been used for medicinal purposes. They have beneficial influence on various body systems, including the lungs, kidneys, skin, and blood. The herb has been recognized for its ability to stop bleeding, relieve mucous congestion and water retention, and improve skin irritations. It is considered to be an excellent blood purifier. Try some of these interesting Nettles recipes: <b>Pasta with Nettles</B> and Parmesan

3-4 cups fresh nettles

3 Tablespoons olive oil

3-4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

1 small hot red pepper

1 pound pasta (traditionally penne, pennette, or rigatoni)

1. Wash the nettles and put in salted boiling water for about seven minutes.

2. While they are cooking, put olive oil, garlic, and hot pepper into a frying pan over medium heat for three to four minutes.

3. Remove the cooked nettles from the boiling water and put into the frying pan with the garlic and pepper. Stir and cook for a few minutes, until excess water has evaporated and the nettles are coated with oil.

4. Use the water the nettles were boiled in to cook the pasta. When pasta is al dente (chewy), drain and toss with the cooked nettles. Serve with fresh grated parmesan. Serves four.

<B>Potato Nettle Soup</b>

200 Nettle Leaves (young shoots) 1 Sml Onion 6 Small Potatoes 250ml Water 1 Tsp Salt 1 Tsp Parsley 3 Cloves Garlic

Method Puree onion, garlic, and nettles with 1 cup of water. Cut potatoes into small pieces. Simmer pureed mixture with potatoes and remaining water for 45 minutes or until tender. Use a potato masher to mash the potatoes making the soup thick and creamy.

<B>Olde English Nettle Pudding</B>

An old English recipe, which is not a dessert but a hearty main dish. Use the English teacup measurement again. Volume of one of these is approximately 250ml Water to the top.

Method In a bowl add the ingredients below:-

2 Cups Cooked & Chopped Nettle Greens 1 Cup Chopped Onion 1 Cup Chopped Broccoli or Green Cabbage 200g Raw Rice, 1 Cup Minced Beef (omit this if veggie) ½ Cup Suet (beef or vegetarian).

Season with 1 teaspoon salt and a little freshly ground black pepper, mix well, then tie the mixture up in a muslin cloth that has been wrung out in cold water. Drop into boiling water and boil for 1 hour, or hang over boiling water and steam for 3 hours. When you remove the pudding cloth, you will have a round cannonball of a pudding that is delicious when served with a good gravy or melted butter.

The Nettle Beer made by cottagers is often given to their old folk as a remedy for gouty and rheumatic pains, but apart from this purpose it forms a pleasant drink. It may be made as follows: Take 2 gallons of cold water and a good pailful of washed young Nettle tops, add 3 or 4 large handsful of Dandelion, the same of Clivers (Goosegrass) and 2 OZ. of bruised, whole ginger. Boil gently for 40 minutes, then strain and stir in 2 teacupsful of brown sugar. When lukewarm place on the top a slice of toasted bread, spread with 1 OZ. of compressed yeast, stirred till liquid with a teaspoonful of sugar. Keep it fairly warm for 6 or 7 hours, then remove the scum and stir in a tablespoonful of cream of tartar. Bottle and tie the corks securely. The result is a specially wholesome sort of ginger beer. The juice of 2 lemons may be substituted for the Dandelion and Clivers. Other herbs are often added to Nettles in the making of Herb Beer, such as Burdock, Meadowsweet, Avens Horehound, the combination making a refreshing summer drink. Mrs. Grieves, A Modern Herbal As our soils and bodies are very depleted of minerals one of the ways for the body to absorb minerals quickly is by using wild herbs. Our ancestors used nettles for all kinds of uses, so we have a history in our body of using the minerals in these wild herbs. <font size=""3"" color=""#000000"" face=""times new roman""><b>Read Judi's Other Blogs</b></font>

<a href=""http://totheuniverseblog.blogspot.com/"">To The Universe</a>

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<a href=""http://www.xanga.com/private/home.aspx?user=jassmine"">Jass' s blog</a>

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About the author: Judi Singleton writes the Herbal Harvest Blog every week. You can join at http://www.motherearthpublishing.com the blog is at http://herbalharvest.blogspot.com/ She also leads a gardening group at http://www.Ryze.com called Herbal Harvest

Planting Blue Flowers In Your Garden

Author: Lee Dobbins

Article: Blue garden flowers can add a splash of unique color to your yard. You can buy blue and blue purple perennials and annuals to enhance your garden design. Plant them in a section for all blue flowers or mix them in with your other colors for a more varied look.

When planting flowers, be sure to follow the instructions for planting locations and maintenance. Buying plants that thrive in the conditions in which you intend to grow them will give you a much fuller and easier to care for garden. A plant that needs full sun will not grow to your expectations if it is planted in the shade.

Make sure you water and fertilize you're your blue garden flowers according to the instructions and you will be rewarded with big luscious blooms. Pinching off the dead flowers will help the plant to grow fuller and produce more flowers.

Other things to consider when planting blue garden flowers include:

• Bloom Time – what timeframe the plant will flower in – planting flowers in the same areas that have different blooming times will insure a succession of blooms throughout the growing season.

• Size – make sure you plant the taller plants in the back so they don't obscure the view of the shorter growing flowers.

Below is a list of some blue and purple colored flowers for your garden:

Verbena - Babylon Blue - Purply blue flower petals on this early bloomer that is great for window boxes and planters.

Catmint - Walkers - This blue flowering perennial shows deep lavender blue flowers on long spikes. It graces us by blooming from June to September and grows to about 10"" tall. It does best in a fully sunny spot but can withstand some afternoon shade. Attracts butterflies, hummingbirds and bees.

Corydalis, Blue Panda - This plant produces fragrant stringy sky blue flowers. It blooms in late spring, and sometimes again in fall. Can grow to 12" and likes partial shade with a rich soil.

Caspian, Blue Indigo - Blue pea shaped flowers bloom on stalks that grow up to 5 feet tall. The flowers that bloom in mid to late summer can last for several weeks. Plant in full sun or partial shade and sandy soil.

Cascade, Purple Rockcress - This ground cover grows 3 to 6" tall and is perfect for growing between rocks and in crevices. Deep blue flowers bloom in early to mid spring. Plant in moderate soil in the full sun or partial shade.

Scabiosa - Butterfly Blue - This bushy perennial is more of a lavender blue perennial plant with 2"" flower petals that bloom from June to October. Plant in the full sunlight - deadheading after first bloom will encourage repeat sports. This flower attracts the most fabulous creatures - butterflies and hummingbirds.

Bachelors Button - This has bright blue thistle like blossoms and will grow to 24"". It shows its blooms in late summer to early fall - cut down after first bloom for another bloom later in the season. Plant in the full sunlight.

Campanula, Blue Carpet - Flowers in bright blue to lilac bloom for weeks in the middle of summer. A low growing perennial, this grows to 2 – 4" and prefers full sun and a well drained soil.

Bellflower - Enjoy bright violet blue blooms all summer with this plant that grows to 30" tall. Can grow in partial shade or full sun and likes well drained soil.

Penstemon, Blue Buckle - Tubular shaped blooms in blue to purple from mid summer to early fall. Plant grows 12" to 15" and prefers well drained soil with either full or partial sun.

Balloon Flower - Sentimental Blue - This shorter plant has medium blue flowers that puff up before It blooms in. It can get to about 8"" and likes to grow in a fully sunny spot.

Petunia, Blue Spark Cascadia - Lavender blue flowers adorn this long blooming plant that produces flowers from early spring until frost. Grows 6 to 8" but can have longer cascades when grown in planters. Will grow in partial shade or full sun.

About the author: Lee Dobbins is a contributing writer for <a href=http://www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com>http://www.backyard -garden-and-patio.com</a> where you can learn how to build your dream garden. Find out more about garden flowers at <a href=http://www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com/garden-flowers.html >http://www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com/garden-flowers.html

Tulip Care

Author: Linda Paquette

Article: The crocus, anemone, narcissus and daffodil are all welcome harbingers of spring. However, growing tulips capture the essence of spring with bright colorful blooms that renew the earth with promise of summer color. The best part of growing tulips is watching them dance in the first breaths of spring. The second best part of growing tulips is tulip care. The reason is because once established, a tulip bed needs very little care at all!

Tulips originated in Central Asia where they grew in the wild. The word tulip means turban and comes from a Turkish word, turbend. Tulips were cultivated in Turkey as early as 1,000 AD. Today tulips are frequently associated with the Netherlands. In August of 1593, Carolus Clusius received a gift of tulip bulbs from his friend, Ogier Ghiselain de Busbecq, the ambassador of Constantinople. He planted the bulbs and the spring of 1594 gave birth to the first tulips of Holland. Clusius's planting is still considered the birth of the Netherlands flower bulb business, which continues today, over 400 years later. The colorful flowers soon became major trading commodities. Different color strains and mutations were status symbols and in such high demand in the 1600's that tulips were often sold by estimated weight, even before they were lifted from the ground. Trading in tulip futures was dubbed as "tulpenwindhandel" (tulip wind trade). Soon this speculative trading got out of hand and the Dutch government introduced trade restrictions to quash it.

Growing tulips is easy. Tulips are spring flowering bulbs that should be planted in late autumn. Tulip bulbs are an excellent nutrient storage system that need little care besides water. Tulips prefer a bed of sandy, slightly alkaline soil with at least four hours of sunlight per day, but not direct sun. Today there are over 100 species of growing tulips and many hundreds of hybrids, primarily due to the extensive breeding programs and tulip care that began in the late sixteenth century.

Planting tulips is as simple as growing tulips. Bulbs should be spaced depending on the effect you want to create. The only rule is that they shouldn't be close enough to touch each other. Planting depth is also easy to calculate. As a rule of thumb, plant tulip bulbs at a depth of two to three times the height of the bulb. The most difficult part of planting tulips is remembering to put them root side down and pointed side up!

About the author:

Linda is author of the <a href=""http://www.gardening-guides.com/related-articles/flower-gar dening/related-flower-gardening.htm""> Tulip Flower and Bulb Flowers </a>section of Gardening-Guides.com

Organic Lawn Fertilizer

Author: Linda Paquette

Article: Your lawn can be only as good as the soil under it. When you use slow release, organic lawn fertilizer, you provide your lawn with nutrition that grows healthy, disease and drought resistant green turf. Although you may want to be the first on your block to have a green carpet in front of your home, healthy grass needs to grow at its own rate. Organic lawn fertilizer feeds your lawn from the soil, allowing it to grow naturally and establish a deep and expansive root system that is necessary to growing strong and healthy turf.

Over fertilization actually grows your lawn to death. Chemical fertilizers basically leave all their nutrients on the surface of the soil, killing the microorganisms that work to keep soil healthy. High nitrogen fertilizers are foliar feeders; they help top-growth, which looks good and deceives you into believing you have a healthy lawn. However, half of all soluble nitrogen leaches out of your soil before it can be absorbed. If all your "lawn food" is on your soil instead of in it, your grass has no need to develop a good root system.

Organic lawn fertilizer breaks down slowly, feeding your lawn as it adds nutrients to the soil. Roots feed from these nutrients and build up a reserve of carbohydrates keeping your lawn healthy and promoting steady growth during times of stress caused by disease or drought.

Start with a soil test before you fertilize. Knowing the present condition of your soil helps you develop a solid organic lawn fertilizer plan that addresses your soil's long term needs by providing a balance of needed nutrients with organic lawn fertilizer and soil amendments.

A good organic lawn fertilizer of fine ground compost allows the particles to fall between the blades of grass and reach the crowns or stolons of your grass and its roots. Apply sifted compost with a drop spreader and to an established lawn as a tonic. Top dressing with compost both improves the soil and nourishes your turf.

Remember, a truly healthy lawn takes time to develop. Grass that is growing well doesn't need fertilizer. Fertilize to supply missing nutrients to the soil using a slow-release or water in-soluble organic lawn fertilizer that releases nutrients at the rate your turf needs them. When looking for a specific type or brand of organic lawn fertilizer, a good place to check is the extensive list maintained by attra,(http://attra.org/attra-pub/orgfert.html.)

About the author: Linda is author of <a href=""http://www.lawnmower-guide.com/product-pages/prod_lawn_care .htm"">The Lawn Care</a> section of <a href=""http://www.lawnmower-guide.com"">Lanwmowers-Guide.com

How to Transplant Trees

Author: LeAnn R. Ralph

Article: How to Transplant Trees by LeAnn R. Ralph

975 words

With a little patience and tender loving care, you can easily transplant small trees that you have found growing in a ditch or that are growing on one part of your property but that you would like to move to another part of your property.

Spring is the best time to transplant trees. Transplanting in the spring will allow the trees to develop more roots before winter arrives again and they go dormant.

Here are 10 steps for transplanting trees:

1. Identify and select the trees you would like to transplant. Smaller is better, although if they are too small (seedlings that are only a few inches high), their chances for survival are less. Over the last 10 years, my husband and I have discovered that the best sized trees for transplanting range from six inches to two feet tall.

2. Fill a bucket or another container half full of water. It is very important to keep the roots of the tree wet between the time you dig it up and the time you transplant it, even if you are digging up the tree and moving it immediately. Trees cannot seem to tolerate their roots drying out, even if it's only for five minutes.

3. Dig carefully around the tree using a spade or a shovel. Remember that there is as much tree below ground as you can see above ground. In other words, if the tree is 10 inches high and the branches all together from side to side measure 20 inches, that means the tap root is 10 inches deep and that the other roots spread out from around the tree at least 10 inches on each side. The wider and deeper you can dig around the tree, the less likely it is that you will be cutting roots. If you can avoid cutting too many roots, your tree will stand a better chance of surviving.

4. Put the tree in the pail of water after you have dug it out of the ground.

5. Dig a hole where you want to transplant the tree. Make sure the hole is big enough to accommodate the length of the tap root and the width of the other roots. For good measure, you might want to put manure in the bottom of the hole so that the tree has some fertilizer. (You can buy dried manure in bags at garden shops.)

6. Pour water into the hole before putting the tree into the hole. This will ensure that there is plenty of moisture at the tip of the roots.

7. Place the tree in the center of the hole. Keeping the tree level, put dirt back into the hole around the roots.

8. Leave a shallow depression three or four inches deep all the way around the tree instead of mounding the dirt up around the trunk. When it comes time to water the tree, if you leave a shallow reservoir around the trunk, the water will have a chance to soak in right by the tree instead of draining away.

9. Pour several gallons of water around the tree after you have planted it. Transplanted trees need more water than other trees to help them get over the shock of being moved.

10. Water your transplanted trees regularly during the summer and early fall. For larger trees, give five gallons of water. For smaller trees, give one to two gallons of water. Water your trees every other day if it is dry where you live or if you have drought conditions. If it is raining regularly (1 to 2 inches per week or more), water two or three times a week. Continue watering throughout the first year and the second year. After the trees have become established, you will not have to water them as much, and eventually, you won't have to water them at all.

Observations about transplanting trees:

1. If you transplant a deciduous tree after the tree has leaves (oak, maple, or other trees with leaves), and the tree loses its leaves, do not give up hope. We have transplanted small maple trees with leaves that immediately lost their leaves. A couple of weeks later, the trees sprouted new leaves and went on growing as if nothing had happened.

2. Trees that are watered regularly grow faster than trees that do not receive as much water. A few years ago after we had transplanted a couple of maple trees, I missed one (couldn't see it in the tall grass around it). I watered the other trees I could see, but the one I couldn't see got left out. In the fall, I discovered the tree I had missed, and I noticed that over the summer, the other trees had grown much more than the one which did not receive water.

3. If you transplant a pine tree and the needles turn brown, that's it for the pine tree. None of the pine trees we have transplanted that turned brown have ever come back.

4. Be careful about digging up trees to transplant that are not on your property. In the state of Wisconsin, for example, it is illegal to dig up anything that is in a state park or is growing in the ditch along a road that runs through a state park. And of course, if the trees are on someone else's property, make sure that you receive permission from the landowner.

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Are you looking for a good book to read? LeAnn R. Ralph is the author of the books ""Christmas in Dairyland (True Stories from a Wisconsin Farm"" (trade paperback 2003); ""Give Me a Home Where the Dairy Cows Roam"" (trade paperback 2004); ""Preserve Your Family History (A Step-by-Step Guide for Interviewing Family Members and Writing Oral Histories"" (e-book 2004). You are invited to read sample chapters and to sign up for the free monthly newsletter, Rural Route 2 News -- http://ruralroute2.com

About the author: Are you looking for a good book to read? LeAnn R. Ralph is the author of the books ""Christmas in Dairyland (True Stories from a Wisconsin Farm)"" and ""Give Me a Home Where the Dairy Cows Roam"" -- http://ruralroute2.com

An Introduction to Bulb Flowers

Author: Tony Robinson

Article: Just about every flower gardener will work with bulb plants at one time or another. Bulbs are loved by gardeners for the ease with which they grow, their hardiness and the fact that they can bloom again and again for many consecutive seasons without the need to replant. With all these advantages, it is no wonder that bulb plants are so popular among both new and experienced gardeners. Choosing the right bulbs, however, is one thing that many beginning gardeners have trouble with. After you develop and eye and feel for finding the best bulbs, however, you will be able to spot them from across the garden center.

When choosing bulbs for your garden, it is important to choose the firmest and largest bulbs. The size of the bulb is important, since large bulbs are more likely to provide many blooms. The firmness of the bulb is a good indication of its health, and bulbs that are soft or mushy are unlikely to bloom. Bulbs are particularly susceptible to water damage. It is important to choose a bulb that is not to soft, but it is also important to look for cracks or scars. Bulbs with cracks or scars may have become too dry to bloom. Likewise, any bulbs that have begun to spout roots should be avoided, as they are unlikely to bloom properly once planted.

How bulbs are planted in the garden is important as well. Most bulbs are best planted in the fall, most commonly in early to mid October. The goal is to get the bulbs into the ground six weeks before the ground begins to freeze, so obviously the best time to plant will vary from location to location.

Bulbs should be planted in a well prepared soil, and the depth they should be planted will be determined by the type of bulb. For example, crocus bulbs are generally planted four inches deep, daffodil and hyacinth bulbs six inches deep and tulip bulbs at a depth of eight inches.

A simple gardening tool called a bulb planter is great for achieving a more uniform look to the blooming garden. Bulb planters can be used to easily prepare perfect looking rows of flowers. Those gardneres who prefer a more wild and freewheeling look, on the other hand, often dig a single hole and plant several bulbs in it. This approach can lead to spectacular, if somewhat unpredictable, patterns once the bulbs begin to bloom.

It is important to use a small amount of fertilizer at the bottom of each hole you dig when planting bulbs. The fertilizer should then be topped with a thin layer of soil, and the bulb carefully placed on top of the soil. It is important not to place the bulb directly on top of the fertilizer, as doing so could damage the bulb. Bulbs are always planted with the pointed end stick up and the flat, rooted side lying on top of the layer of soil. After the bulbs are in place, the rest of the hole should be filled with soil and the garden should be given a thorough watering.

Even though bulbs are among the hardiest of garden plants, there are a few important things to remember. One important technique to become familiar with is deadheading. The term deadheading should already be familiar to those gardeners who work with perennials. Deadheading is simply removing spent blooms in order to encourage more blossoms to develop. This process is important with bulb plants as well. When working with bulbs, however, it is important not to remove the leaves from the plants until the leaves have begun turning brown.

Taking care of the bulbs over the winter is important as well. In warmer climates, many bulbs can remain in the ground over winter. It is important, however, to remove tender bulbs such as dahlias, even in warmer climates. These bulbs should be stored over the winter in a cool, dry location.

Bulbs are wonderful plants for any gardener, from the newest to the most experienced. Their combination of hardiness, color and beauty make them hard to beat for any flower enthusiast.

About the author: Tony Robinson is an international author and webmaster. In his busy life he finds time to ""Smell the Roses"". For geat tips, techniques and articles visit http://www.rose-bloom.com

Spring Garden Tips

Author: Josh Gray

Article: Gardeners, it's time to put your gardening skills to the test. If temperatures are cooperating, the merry months of May and June will be your busiest until September, with planning, planting, and patio projects to lead the way into summer. Don't be fooled by a late frost; find out the mean freeze date in your area, and be sure soil is warm and workable—not too wet, not too dry—before putting tender plants in the ground.

By the time your garden is prime for planting, you should already have a plan of attack in place. Are you going to be planting bulbs, annual, more perennials, or a vegetable and herb garden. Maybe even all of the above if you are blessed with a big yard. Once you have a plan, its time to acquire your new plants. The quickest and easiest way is to buy your plants online. Everything you need from seeds, bulbs, and tools can be found through online merchants, and many sites even offer online coupons for increased savings. Small starters usually cannot be shipped directly to you, but can be sent to a store close to home for pick-up at your convenience.

If you are going to be putting in sensitive vegetables like cucumbers, squash, tomatoes, and melons, you may wish to wait a few weeks after the last thaw to ensure they don't get damaged by an extra cold night. If you want to plant early, consider sowing heartier vegetables like potatoes, peas, beans, carrots, and lettuce. Not sure about when to plant, then ask an expert at your local gardening center.

For all the beautiful colors of spring, consider planting both annual and perennial flowers. Although your perennials will still be around from last year, you may want to add a few of your favorites to replace flowers lower on your list. Annuals are an important part to every garden. They bring some of the richest, most vibrant colors to your garden. Plant your annuals from starters if you want an early spring bloom. Make sure that you plant annuals in areas of your yard that get at least five hours of direct sunlight per day. Don't be cheap on the plant food and watering, and you will ensure your flowers get the right ingredients for full, healthy blossoms.

Once the initial preparing and planting are finished, you can sit back and relax, letting your sprinklers do the rest of the work. If you work hard early on, your hardest task in summer will be choosing which flowers to make cuttings of and create bouquets for the kitchen and dining room. Enjoy the fruits of your labor… until next spring.

About the author: Josh Gray, President of UC San Diego's Gardens Club, is the Home and Garden consultant for CouponChief.com. This <a href = "www.couponchief.com">discount shopping</a> and online coupon website features coupons and deals for most gardening merchants on their home and garden page. Find huge discount savings like coupons for $20 off $50! Visit <a href = "www.couponchief.com">CouponChief.com</a> today!

Attracting and Caring for Hummingbirds

Author: Johann Erickson

Article: The oldest historical mention of hummingbirds likely dates back to the Taino Native Americans, who were reportedly the first humans to greet Columbus when he landed in America. The Taino believe that hummingbirds are the spreaders of life on Earth, and their warriors were known as Colibir, or Hummingbird warriors, because they are a peaceful bird that will defend their territory with the heart of an eagle.

How long they have been in America is unknown, but they have delighted bird watchers for many years, with their quick dashes into the garden, and the shine of the sun on brilliant feathers. While there actually are duller colored birds, the ruby-throated hummingbird is the most commonly recognized for its iridescent feathering, and dazzlig ruby-red throat. The color though, is not all it seems.

Hummingbirds get their unusual coloring from the fact that not all feathers are pigmented, or colored. In the duller colors, including the Rufous Hummingbird, the brown hue is actual pigment in the feather structure. In the ruby-throated variety, light refracting through the feather segments, breaking it up much like a prism would. Only certain levels of color will be seen by the human eye, and that color will change with every movement of the feather, or angle of the light striking it.

This is one of the features that makes them so charming to watch as they flit around a garden or feeder. Hummingbirds are very fast, traveling at an average 25 miles per hour, with wingbeats of anywhere from 10-15 per second in the Giant Hummingbird, up to 80 per minute by the Amethyst Woodstar. The ruby-throated hummer falls into the middle range, at about 53 beats per second.

To sustain such rapid and prolonged activity, the hummingbird's heart must beat accordingly. For birds that are hot, or sleepy, that can be as low as 50-180 beats per minute, but a heart rate of an amazing 1360 beat per minute has been recorded in a Blue-Throated Hummingbird.

All this activity requires a humming bird to eat almost continually, to fuel the activity that will maintain its 105-109F body heat. That means dining as many as 15 times an hour, on high-energy food. In volume, they consume up to eight times their body weight a day. But reduce the nectar to a solid by eliminating the water, and it would amount to their own bodyweight.

A hummingbird can starve to death in as little as two hours, if still active. That makes rescue of birds trapped in garages or other enclosed areas, imperative within a short time. At night, their "thermal generators" shut down as they rest, and allow their body temperature to drop, so that less energy is used up while they sleep.

If you enjoy watching these delightful little birds, and are also an enthusiastic gardener, why not plant clumps of flowers or bushes, to bring them into your yard? Hummingbirds are creatures of habit, and will develop their own paths to food, checking them frequently and on a daily basis. Once they find out you have goodies, they'll return over and over. Other hummers will follow, and you may then get to see hummingbird behavior at its worst, as they dive at each other to protect their food sources.

Good choices of food producing plants for hummingbirds includes such trees or bushes as Azaleas, Mimosa, Weigela, Cape Honeysuckle and Flowering Quince. Another semi-permanent attraction is a perennial bed with Bee Balm, Columbine, Lupine, Coral Bells and Canna. You can also plant a wide range of annuals like Fuschia, Impatiens, Petunias and Firespike, but consider growing some of your own plants from seed, as many flowers that are nursery grown, tend not to have as much nectar. Hummers will be overjoyed to discover this bonanza of blooms, and the tiny bugs that constitute the protein source of their diet.

To make sure you enjoy these little feathered friends for the whole season, hang some hummingbird feeders around your patio or gardens. But make sure there is a bit of distance between them, to avoid the squabbles, which can be quite a sight!

Because hummers are attracted to red flowers, you'll find many of the hummingbird feeders available, are also colored red. This isn't an absolute necessity, but it can be a bright spot in your garden. And the feeders come in all kinds of charming shapes from a hanging bunch of grapes, to a giant strawberry.

Commercial powdered "food" formula is available, but you can easily make your own by combining one part sugar to four parts water, and boiling it for two minutes, then cooling and storing in the fridge. Never use honey, which can ferment, or red dye, which can be harmful to the birds.

Only fill your <A href=""http://www.onlinediscountmart.com/hummingbird-feeders.html"" >hummingbird feeders</a> to the one-third or halfway mark, as it would take many birds to empty the contents, and the feeders will need cleaning every few days to prevent the occurrence of mold. Wash in mild dish detergent, with no more than 10% bleach, and rinse several times. If you have mold inside the feeder, and can't reach it with a bottle brush, put some sand in with the water, and swish that back and forth, until the mold is rubbed off.

Hummingbird Trivia <ul> <li>The hummingbird is so small, that an insect, the Praying Mantis is its natural enemy. <li>They are the only bird that can hover, and fly backwards as well as straight up or down <li>Hummingbirds can't walk <li>The average life of a hummingbird is 3-4 years, although one specimen was caught in 1976 in Colorado, banded, and captured again in 1987 </ul>

About the author: Johann Erickson is the owner of <a href=""http://www.onlinediscountmart.com"">Online Discount Mart</a> and <a href=""http://www.tvproducts4less.com"">TV Products 4 Less</a>. Please include an active link to our site if you'd like to reprint this article.

The Hosta - A Shade Loving Perennial

Author: Bonnie P. Carrier

Article: My first introductions to Hostas were four small green and white clumps edging a small section of my mother- in- laws driveway.

I was not terribly impressed, they looked more like scraggly lettuce plants with a few sticks growing out of the middle plus their size never seemed to change from year to year.

Fast forward a few years, I now had my own home with visions of gorgeous gardens blooming in my head.

The property was surrounded by trees, which we loved not only for the privacy but the house was kept quite cool during the hot summer months.

I soon discovered that all that shade may have been good for keeping our home and family cool it wasn't great for growing certain perennials as most I'd looked at all said full sun.

During trips to local nurseries looking for shade loving plants I kept noticing Hostas, thinking "Oh, great spindly lettuce" I went ahead and purchased two plants, I was desperate to plant something along the perimeter of those wonderful trees.

The two green plants with white stripes found a home next to a simple concrete birdbath, one on either side.

During the summer I weeded around them, watered and feed them every two weeks but didn't really hold much hope that they would turn into anything special.

The following Spring during winter clean up I noticed small green shoots popping up beside the birdbath but again didn't get to excited.

Well, by mid summer those two had tripled in size were very full and looked absolutely beautiful.

I began to rethink my first impression of Hostas and after doing some research discovered there are hundreds – actually more then 2600- of varieties available.

Leaf colors include green, blue, gold and white. The leaves can either be a solid color or variegated with a second color mixed in the center or along the edges.

Several plants in various shades can really dress up a shady corner. By mixing several of the brighter hues along with darker shades can be quite dramatic.

Another way to use Hostas is by mixing them with other shade plants, which can include Perennials such as Astilbe, Bleeding Heart and Japanese Painted Ferns also, Shrubs like Azalea, Hydrangea or Sweet Pepperbush.

You're not limited to using shade plants just within wooded areas or around trees.

For instance, a partly shaded walk way along side your home would make a perfect candidate for this combination, plant the shrubs or tall perennials along the back next to the house with the Hostas placed in front can look quite stunning.

A large shade tree in our front yard looked like a good candidate for dressing up and because of the success of the birdbath Hostas of course I decided to try more around the tree.

Using a tiller we formed a circle around the base and mixed good topsoil into the existing dirt, edged the circle with bricks, all that was need now were the plants.

I spent several days' scouring local nurseries looking for Hostas in different colors and leaf textures.

Armed with six new plants of moderate size – I'm one of those impatient gardeners – I staggered them around the tree, put down a thick layer of cedar mulch then for decorative accent added several groups of unusual looking rocks found in the woods, a family of resin squirrels also found a home sitting around the plants.

It really looked great and I just knew by the following year with regular watering and feeding those six plants would be larger, fuller and gorgeous.

Several days later while doing my daily walk around to look for anything new, I noticed something strange around the tree in the front yard. Getting closer things really looked funny.

It took a moment to realize there were no longer leafy plants growing there, just a bunch of green stems. This was how I learned that Hostas happen to be a favorite before dinner snack for deer.

Therefore my advice is if you live in an area populated with those brown eyed beauties and your going to give Hosta growing a go make sure to spray them with a safe repellant periodically from their emergence in the spring until the first frost in the fall.

So for those shady areas think about planting Hostas, after all they are a whole lot more than scraggly looking lettuce.

This is a share ware article. Give this article away for free on your site, or include it as part of any paid package as long as the entire article is left intact including this notice. Copyright © 2005 bonnie carrier.

About the author: Bonnie P. Carrier is the creator of Savvy Home Decorating & Savvy Outdoor Decorating. She is the mother to two grown daughters and a very spoiled 4yr old Blue Merle Sheltie named Toby. Stop by for information and ideas for both inside and outside your home.

www.savvy-home-decorating.com www.savvyoutdoordecorating.com

Rock Gardens ... A Different Kind of Garden

Author: Bonnie P. Carrier

Article: Planting a Rock Garden is a great alternative to the normal flower and vegetable garden.

Where Should This Garden Go:

Typically an ideal spot for a rock garden is on a slope or naturally terraced area with rock formations already in place.

However nature has not blessed every home with this perfect set up which means you will need to create an area from scratch using topsoil and rocks.

This can be done most anywhere you choose against a wall or fence, along the house or back of a garage – this is where I had one of my rock gardens – having one within an existing garden would also look quite nice.

How Big Should It Be:

This decision of course is going to be entirely up to you taking into consideration how much time you have and how much space you have to work with.

You may have seen pictures in magazines of very elaborate looking rock gardens with waterfalls or streams running through them and paths made up of large flat rock for walking. However, small, simply designed gardens look just as good and in the long run for many of use will work out better.

This is especially true if you are making one from scratch, you need to consider the amount of time needed to build it and the cost factor as you'll be needing topsoil, rocks and plants.

Remember the old saying we all head growing up "Your eyes are bigger than your stomach" well it applies here as well, start small and build up over time.

I've had rock gardens at two different homes both had to be started from scratch and both started out small.

The first started small mainly because I'd never done one before, in fact it didn't start out to be a rock garden at all. It started as a flower garden right behind the garage, but the discovery of some Hens & Chicks at a local nursery changed everything.

Which now leads to the next section, plants.

What Plants To Use

This type of garden is a little different from what you may normally be accustomed to – large plants with brightly colored blooms.

Here you want plants that are relatively small, there are many low growing perennials available.

And don't get to caught up in whether the plants has flowers or not, what your looking for is something to enhance and complement the rock clusters you've put together.

Also don't limit your choices to just plants, small dwarf evergreen shrubs can also be used and will add another texture to the garden.

In fact is space permits add a few larger shrubs to the back of the garden, which works as a backdrop to really put the rock garden in the spot light.

Examples of Plants & Shrubs:

Perennials:

·Creeping Myrtle – green leaves with violet blue spring flowers

·Hens & Chicks – many varieties of color and texture

·Sedum – creeping in gold or red

·Phlox – creeping in pink, red, blue and white

Shrubs:

·Juniper ·Dwarf Mugho Pine ·Birds Nest Spruce

Maintaining A Rock Garden:

Routine care like with any garden is needed. Cutting back leggy plants, dead heading any flowering plants, removal of any dead stems and dividing any plants that have become to big.

Also like with all gardens water when necessary and feed occasionally.

Putting down a thick layer of mulch will help during the hot summer to keep moisture where it belongs around the plants roots; this is also beneficial if you live in an area where winters are harsh.

To Add Decorative Accents or Not – Here's a Good Question:

Many articles and experienced gardeners will more than likely tell you that the addition of decorative accents is not necessary as the simple lines of plants and rocks is the decorative element.

I on the other hand disagree, to me adding a little something like a small figurine, a mini birdbath or a tiny wind chime hanging from a miniature Shepard's hook only add to the beauty of the garden.

However as with indoor decorating, a garden whether it is rock, flower or vegetable should express and represent the creative side to each individual gardener, so if you like the way something looks go ahead and use it.

Give Rock Gardening a try. Happy Gardening

This is a share ware article. Give this article away for free on your site, or include it as part of any paid package as long as the entire article is left intact including this notice. Copyright © 2005 bonnie carrier.

About the author: Bonnie P. Carrier is the creator of Savvy Home Decorating & Savvy Outdoor Decorating. She is the mother to two grown daughters and a very spoiled 4yr old Blue Merle Sheltie named Toby. Stop by for information and ideas for both inside and outside your home.

www.savvy-home-decorating.com www.savvyoutdoordecorating.com