Keep Your Yard Ornamental With Sago Palm Care

Author: Adam Peters

Article: Proper Sago Palm care is essential for a beautiful looking plant. The Sago Palm tree, scientifically known as the Cycas revoluta, is one of the most primitive living seed plants. They are unusual ornamental plants that are very hardy. In the United States, they are typically found in warm moist climates like the Houston area. They are related to conifer trees. They are characterized by a rough trunk with light feathery leaves.

Sago Palms are one of the simplest plants to grow, whether indoors or out, no matter your level of gardening expertise. They live for an extremely long period of time, and are tolerant of many different temperatures, levels of sunlight, and types of care. There are several things to remember with Sago Palm care. Do not bother the plant as it new leaves emerge. Moreover, do not allow the plant to dry out during this time. While Sago Palms are quite tolerant, temperatures too high or too low can damage the plant. The growth rate for a Sago Palm is very slow. Most only increase in size one inch per year.

+ While not difficult, sago palm care is essential for the maintenance and reproduction of your Cycas revoluta.

A part of Sago Palm care includes reproduction. Sago Palms are dioecious, which means there are both male and female plants. If you wish to propagate these plants, it is best to do it through hand pollination techniques. May is pollination season. The female seed is ready to be removed in January or February. Once removed, you should place the seed in water for a number of days. Take off the red covering, but do not remove the hard white coat. You can then plant the seed or hold it until spring. The seed must be planted sideways. Do not expose more than the top edge in moist soil. If the soil gets soggy, you might have problems growing your Sago Palm. The seed will usually begin to sprout in three months, but it will require several years to reach more than one inch in height. An excellent way to propagate Sago Palms without hand pollination is to remove an offset of a healthy Sago Palm by popping it off gently with a small shovel. It should be allowed to dry for at least a week. It should then be planted and well watered.

+ A beautiful looking plant can only be achieved through proper Sago Palm Care.

Sago Palms make lovely plants. It is important to remember, though, that proper Sago Palm care, while not difficult, is essential to the life of the plant.

About the author: Adam Peters writes regularly for http://www.home-decorating-reviews.com. Peters contributes adding reviews very often on decorating and design topics. You can also reach interesting articles on the latest trends in gardening and plant care for interior and outdoors decorations at http://www.home-decorating-reviews.com/sago-palm-care.html

Planting Instructions for Small Nursery Stock

Author: Bill Hirst

Article: Planting Instructions for Small Nursery Stock

Many people with great soils and perfect weather conditions will still have problems planting nursery stock. There can be 100 reasons why the plants fail. There is only one reason why they survive. That is they know what they are doing. Hopefully you will be able to improve your planting abilities after reading this article.

Planting a tree or shrub is not as easy as, ""Green side up...brown side down"". Care must be taken from selection, transporting,locating a spot, checking for utilities, plant tolerances for shade,zone rating of the plant for your area,instillation, and care after planting. Each area has special requirements that influence the outcome of your work.

All people handling seedlings and small trees need to help with the life support of your plants. Seedlings are like fish out of water and need care which is often overlooked between the time the seedlings are lifted and transplanted. Improper care means higher mortality. Do not try and reinvent the wheel. You must protect seedling from moisture and temperature extremes, as well as physical damage. Trees and plants are living and should be handled carefully just as you would a baby.. For a higher survival rate, treat trees carefully and plant them immediately. I like to have a backup plan for planting if the weather turns bad. I will sometimes switch from lining out the seedlings to potting them up if I realize that the soil conditions will not be right for an extended lenght of time. If planting must be delayed a few days, keep the plants in a cold, protected place with air circulation between the trees. Keep the trees out of the rain and wind. To check if the trees need water, feel the media at the roots.. If it isn't damp, water the trees and allow the excess water to drain. In cool, damp weather, the biggest threat to these trees is from mold. Try to keep out of soil seedlings moist by either restricting water loss with a water vapor barrier or by wetting the roots at regular intervals. While handling or planting try to reduce temperature and air movement around the seedlings. Windy days can dry out seedlings so consider waiting for calmer weather. Once your soil conditions are correct OUR FREE USE PLANTERS will make planting a snap so its will be worth waiting for good planting conditions.

HOW TO PLANT

Ideal planting days are cool and cloudy with little or no wind. If possible, avoid planting on warm, windy days. The soil should be moist not wet. Care in planting is more important than speed. Make sure the roots are never allowed to become dry. Bare root seedlings should be carried in a waterproof bag or bucket with plenty of moist material packed around the roots to keep them damp. Ideally, bare root boxes should be kept refrigerated or packed in ice or snow. Don't freeze the trees. Competition from weeds, grass, brush or other trees is very detrimental to survival and growth of seedlings. Choose areas free from this competition or clear at least a three-foot square bare spot before planting. Seedlings should not be planted under the crown of existing trees, or closer than 6 feet to existing brush. Avoid areas near walnut trees. Brush aside loose organic material such as leaves, grass, etc., from the planting spot to expose mineral soil. If organic matter gets into the planting hole, it can decompose and leave air spaces. Roots will dry out when they grow into these spaces. Open up the hole, making sure the hole is deep enough for the roots to be fully extended. If roots are curled or bunched up, the tree will not be able to take up water correctly, will often weaken and die, or may blow down later due to poor root structure. Take a tree out of your planting bag or bucket only after a hole is ready. When exposed, the fine roots can dry out in as little as 30 seconds. Seedling shoots and roots lose water to air, roots require more protecting.Unlike leaves ,they do not have stomata (closeable openings on the surface of the leaves) or any waxy coatings to help reduce water loss. If the roots apear dry they are probably dead. Now I know you are thinking,""I will place them in a buckect of water and store them there until planting"". This will not work. Submerge plants for no longer that a couple of minutes. Placing them in water cuts them off from oxygen. Remember to remove the container before planting a containerized tree. A helpful hint to all those new gardeners just starting is to remember to always plant green side up. Hold the seedling in place in the hole, making sure the roots are straight, fully extended and that the tree is neither too shallow or too deep in the hole. Fill hole, allowing soil to fall in around the roots. Tamp with hands or with your heel. Don't crush the roots by jumping up and down around the seedling like there is a snake curled up around the seedling. It is delicate. Fill with more soil, if necessary, and tamp. Tamping is important. If soil is not firmly packed around the roots, there will be air pockets that can dry out the roots, and the seedlings may be weakly anchored. It is far easier to plant the tree strait up then have the tree leaning and have to staiten the tree later. (Addition of fertilizer and plant vitamins at the time of planting is not generally necessary.) Take your time in planting. Proper spacing will help you grow a more valuable crop. I have tried to get more production from a limited area by over planting and then thinning, but I always have had trouble in harvesting .... digging is slower and poor quality usually results for a portion of the crop. Avoid these tree planting errors:

Tangled roots Planting to shallow Planting to deep Air pockets Turned up roots (this is called J rooting) Planting trees that are not tolerant of wet soils in poorly drained areas Planting over rocks, septic tanks and leach fields, on sand mounds

CARE OF TREES FOLLOWING PLANTING Check periodically to be sure that brush, grass and other vegetation is kept under control by mowing, mulching, spraying or a combination of these treatments. Always obtain advice from a licensed pest control advisor before using chemicals. You ag extension agency may offer courses in application of chemicals. Monitoring the appearance of your trees will help you to detect signs of insects, diseases or other problems. Apperances also help sell your product. Look for foliage turning yellow, new foliage drooping or other signs of poor health. It is easier to take successful corrective action if the problem is detected early.

Over watering is a common problem in irrigated plantations. You probably won't need to water more frequently than every 7-10 days. Give your trees a thorough, deep soak and then let the soil dry out before the next watering. This encourages the roots to grow down in search of water. Frequent, shallow watering encourages root growth near the surface and the trees are more dependent on irrigation and are less windfirm. Animals can be a major cause of damage to young trees. Porcupines, gophers, mice, rabbits, deer and cattle are the most frequent source of damage. In many states you may have to call your game commission and get their recomendations on legal methods to protect your crop. In our state, you can get help from the Pa. Game Commission to kill deer that are a threat to your seedlings or obtain a free fence to keep deer away from your seedlings. Over the years we have lost more trees to mice than any other animal. Put rat baits out on a regular basis.

About the author: Bill has been growing trees and plants for 45 years. He gives simple tips and methods for correctly planting ornamentals. His home farm is in Doylestown Pa. which is 25 north of Philadelphia in Bucks County. His web sites include http://www.seedlingsrus.com http://www.zone5trees.com and http://www.highlandhillfarm.com His phone number is 215 651 8329

tips on how to plant herbs in your garden

Author: Yuan

Article: Herbs have been around since time immemorial and served different kinds of purposes. They have been used to treat illness and flavour cooking; they were even believed to have magical powers. Do you want to have your own herb garden? Here are a few ideas on how to establish an herb garden.Plan your garden.Consider the herbs you want to plant. Think about their types. Would you like annuals, biennials or perennials? How much space will they occupy in your garden? If you want, you can purchase a book that can give you the right information on what specific plants you are planning to grow. List or draw your garden on paper first. Separate the annuals from the perennials so when the time comes that you have to pull out the annuals, you won't be disturbing the perennials. Perennials can be planted on the edge of your garden so when it is time to till your garden they won't be in danger of getting dug up. Another thing to remember is that you have to plant the tall ones at the back and the shorter ones in front. Also, provide your plants with enough space to grow. Proper position shall help you in this area. If you would rather keep herbs out of your garden (and some are quite invasive) you could have herb pots. These are large containers with three or more outlets for the herbs. Fill the pot up to the first outlet and plant it before continuing on with the filling and planting process. Usually, the herb that requires the most water is planted in the bottom hole, while the variety that requires the least, goes in the highest hole. Some Design IdeasYou can consider having a square herb bed. You can have your square bed divided into four by two paths crossing at mid point measuring 3 feet. You can border it with stone or brick. A wooden ladder may also do the trick. You can lay it down on your garden and plant your herbs between its rungs. You can also choose to have a wagon wheel bed. Planting here is like planting with the wooden ladders. Plant your herbs in between the wagon wheel's wedges. Get Your Plants GrowingOf course, different plants have different needs, but many of them require alkaline soil. This is the reason why you have to determine the herbs you want to plant in the planning stage. This can more or less help you find out how you should care for your plants. If you germinate your herbs from seeds, remember to follow the directions on the packet for soil, watering and temperature. Herbs are some of the easiest plants to grow. You just have to provide them with an effective drainage, sunlight, enough humidity or moisture and fertile soil. Even with just minimally meeting these requirements they will be bound produce a good harvest. for similar / related articles, please visit <a href

About the author: Yuan is an onArticle.com author. onArticle.com consist of several people who dedicated to write in demand articles.

Container Gardening: Urban Alternative for Plant Lovers

Author: Isabelle Boulay

Article: Gardening fanatics, with no space for a garden, like apartment dwellers and those in shared housing, can be assured gardening is not inevitably gone from their lives. You can always build a container garden on a balcony, patio, deck, or sunny window. Not only the joy of flowers but vegetables and some fruits can be grown. You can raise perennials, annuals, and even shrubs and small trees all in a container.

Container gardening can present it's own set of challenges. It requires proper planning just like any other kind of gardening. You'll need to find your USDA zone (to identify plants suitable for your zone), see how much daylight you get in your apartment or balcony, and from there you can select the best plant variety.

When buying plants be prudent and choose ones with a healthy appearance and good natural shape. Trunks should be straight. Stay away from plants with twisted, slanted or deformed stems, which can affect the healthy growth of a plant. Try to buy your plants from the local nursery unless you have the right conditions to raise seedlings indoors.

For your container, glazed ceramic pots with drainage holes are a good choice. Terracotta pots are nice looking, true, but dry out quickly and leave your plants without moisture. Wooden containers are good, but can be susceptible to rot. Cedar and redwood are fairly rot resistant and make nice containers but make sure the wood is not treated with creosote or other toxic materials that can damage the plants.

Although you in general don't want to keep your container garden plants outside when the temperature dips below 45° F, there are plants that are frost resistant for colder climates. Eulalia grasses, Mexican feather grass, Cornflowers, Lavender cottons, Jasmine, Million bells, and Stonecrops, stand up to the frost well.

If you follow these few suggestions you will be off to a good start with your new minature garden creation.

About the author: Isabelle Boulay writes for www.OnlineTips.org, where you can find information on <a href=""http://onlinetips.org/installing-fiberglass-insulation"">ins talling fiberglass insulation</a> and <a href=""http://onlinetips.org/replace-door"">How to Replace an Entry Door</a>

Planting White Pine Seedlings

Author: B Hirst

Article: Planting White Pine Trees White pines. Whenever I think of white pines, I remember hunting when I was a kid and standing near trees that were giants. Now every pine tree I plant, I can invision those days in the deep woods and those grand trees and hope someone else will have that same enjoyment. These trees will help you too in establish a desired vision to your landscape.

Beyond their size, white pines also fill important ecological niches. They grow across broad ranges of forest and urban conditions, finding much of North America to their liking.

White Pine trees need protection from deer, disease, insects, and competing weeds and shrubs. The better your weed control the better your trees will grow. When seedlings are planted, it best to plant them with large spacings to allow more light to the plant. If these trees are planted in shade, they tend to be more open. White pines are used around new construction because they perform in a wide range of soil conditions. If you have compacted soil from new construction, we suggest smaller trees of 3-5' height.

All people handling seedlings and small trees need to help with the life support of your plants. Seedlings are like fish out of water and need care which is often overlooked between the time the seedlings are lifted and transplanted. Improper care means higher mortality. Do not try and reinvent the wheel. You must protect seedling from moisture and temperature extremes, as well as physical damage. Seedlings are living and should be handled carefully. For a higher survival rate, treat trees carefully and plant them immediately. I like to have a backup plan for planting if the weather turns bad. I will sometimes switch from lining out the seedlings to potting them up if I realize that the soil conditions will not be right for an extended lenght of time. If planting must be delayed a few days, keep the plants in a cold, protected place with air circulation between the trees. Keep the trees out of the rain and wind. To check if the trees need water, feel the media at the roots.. If it isn't damp, water the trees and allow the excess water to drain. In cool, damp weather, the biggest threat to these trees is from mold. Try to keep out of soil seedlings moist by either restricting water loss with a water vapor barrier or by wetting the roots at regular intervals. While handling or planting try to reduce temperature and air movement around the seedlings. Windy days can dry out seedlings so consider waiting for calmer weather. Once your soil conditions are correct OUR FREE USE PLANTERS will make planting a snap so its will be worth waiting for good planting conditions.

HOW TO PLANT

Ideal planting days are cool and cloudy with little or no wind. If possible, avoid planting on warm, windy days. The soil should be moist not wet. Care in planting is more important than speed. Make sure the roots are never allowed to become dry. Bare root seedlings should be carried in a waterproof bag or bucket with plenty of moist material packed around the roots to keep them damp. Ideally, bare root boxes should be kept refrigerated or packed in ice or snow. Don't freeze the trees. Competition from weeds, grass, brush or other trees is very detrimental to survival and growth of seedlings. Choose areas free from this competition or clear at least a three-foot square bare spot before planting. Seedlings should not be planted under the crown of existing trees, or closer than 6 feet to existing brush. Avoid areas near walnut trees. Brush aside loose organic material such as leaves, grass, etc., from the planting spot to expose mineral soil. If organic matter gets into the planting hole, it can decompose and leave air spaces. Roots will dry out when they grow into these spaces. Open up the hole, making sure the hole is deep enough for the roots to be fully extended. If roots are curled or bunched up, the tree will not be able to take up water correctly, will often weaken and die, or may blow down later due to poor root structure. Take a tree out of your planting bag or bucket only after a hole is ready. When exposed, the fine roots can dry out in as little as 30 seconds. Seedling shoots and roots lose water to air, roots require more protecting.Unlike leaves ,they do not have stomata (closeable openings on the surface of the leaves) or any waxy coatings to help reduce water loss. If the roots apear dry they are probably dead. Now I know you are thinking,""I will place them in a buckect of water and store them there until planting"". This will not work. Submerge plants for no longer that a couple of minutes. Placing them in water cuts them off from oxygen. Remember to remove the container before planting a containerized tree. A helpful hint to all those new gardeners just starting is to remember to always plant green side up. Hold the seedling in place in the hole, making sure the roots are straight, fully extended and that the tree is neither too shallow or too deep in the hole. Fill hole, allowing soil to fall in around the roots. Tamp with hands or with your heel. Don't crush the roots by jumping up and down around the seedling like there is a snake curled up around the seedling. It is delicate. Fill with more soil, if necessary, and tamp. Tamping is important. If soil is not firmly packed around the roots, there will be air pockets that can dry out the roots, and the seedlings may be weakly anchored. It is far easier to plant the tree strait up then have the tree leaning and have to adjust the tree later. (Addition of fertilizer and plant vitamins at the time of planting is not generally necessary.) Take your time in planting. Proper spacing will help you grow a more valuable crop. I have tried to get more production from a limited area by over planting and then thinning, but I always have had trouble in harvesting .... digging is slower and poor quality usually results for a portion of the crop. Avoid these tree planting errors:

Tangled roots Planting too shallow Planting too deep Air pockets Turned up roots (this is called J rooting) Planting trees that are not tolerant of wet soils in poorly drained areas Planting over rocks, septic tanks and leach fields, on sand mounds

CARE OF TREES FOLLOWING PLANTING Check periodically to be sure that brush, grass and other vegetation is kept under control by mowing, mulching, spraying or a combination of these treatments. Always obtain advice from a licensed pest control advisor before using chemicals. You ag extension agency may offer courses in application of chemicals. Monitoring the appearance of your trees will help you to detect signs of insects, diseases or other problems. Apperances also help sell your product. Look for foliage turning yellow, new foliage drooping or other signs of poor health. It is easier to take successful corrective action if the problem is detected early.

Over watering is a common problem in irrigated plantations. You probably won't need to water more frequently than every 7-10 days. Give your trees a thorough, deep soak and then let the soil dry out before the next watering. This encourages the roots to grow down in search of water. Frequent, shallow watering encourages root growth near the surface and the trees are more dependent on irrigation and are less windfirm. Animals can be a major cause of damage to young trees. Porcupines, gophers, mice, rabbits, deer and cattle are the most frequent source of damage. In many states you may have to call your game commission and get their recomendations on legal methods to protect your crop. In our state, you can get help from the Pa. Game Commission to kill deer that are a threat to your seedlings or obtain a free fence to keep deer away from your seedlings. Over the years we have lost more trees to mice than any other animal. Put rat baits out on a regular basis. Over the years we have lost more seedlings and plants to mice than any other culprit including deer and rabbitts combined. You can see other articles written by Bill Hirst about trees, plants, and shrubs at http://www.zone5trees.com

http://seedlingsrus.com/Arborvitae.html

http://seedlingsrus.com/FreeFencing.html

http://seedlingsrus.com/Winter

http://zone5trees.com/Hedges

http://zone5trees.com/PlantingInstructions.html

http://zone5trees.com/ProfitsGrowingTrees.html

About the author: After planting over 50,000 white pines from 3"" to 14'over the past 30 years I think I know afew tips on how to plant a white pine.

How To Care Garden Tractor Tires

Author: A.Caxton

Article: Garden Tractor Tires Require Good Care

The following article describes the garden tractor tires, constructional features, maintenance, and care instructions specifically for garden tractor tires. It also discusses the storage of garden tractor during winter months when the tractors are not being used.

Garden Tractor Tire Design

You would have noted that the garden tractor have different diameters on the front and rear tires. The front tires are smaller and the rear ones are large. The tractors are front wheel driven and this is the reason for the smaller front tires. The ribs on front tires are generally straight and rear tires are cross-ribbed. The tractor tires do not have to pump water as the truck tires. In fact, they are required to work in waterlogged area effectively.

Weight Distribution In Tractor Tires

The load distribution in tractor tires is generally 40 % on front tires and 60 % on rear tires. In order to avoid the compaction of earth below the rear tires, the tires are made large so that the additional load that they carry compared to the front tires do not compact the earth below it. The tires have large ribs so that they cut through the earth instead of compacting it.

Garden Tractor Tires Come As Original Equipment

Your garden tractor tire would have come to you as original equipment along with you tractor. When you change the tires, make sure that the same or equivalent tires are used. This will ensure that the performance from your garden tractor remains as original.

Since lawn tractor tires are almost the most used part of these gardening machines, you should be aware of a proper care and maintenance. One of the most important things to have in mind when using tractors is keeping the accurate inflation as well as the terrain where they work must be slippery an uneven. Apart from these basic tips, there are so many that all gardeners should know before start working with this powerful machine, that could last a lifetime, when it's maintained properly.

About the author: Andrew Caxton contributes adding reviews and special articles regularly to http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com. A gardening website that carries interesting readings on lawn equipment and lawn mower parts, including how to care tractor and mower tires http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com/garden-tractor-tir es.html

Planting Spruce Seedlings

Author: Bill Hirst

Article: Did you know that Black Hills Spruce trees have dark, dark brown bark and dark, dark green needles which are their leaves. From afar, it takes surprisingly few of any evergreen tree to appear black. It takes even fewer of the Black Hills Spruce trees together to make an apparently black forest. Yes, the Black Forest of Bavaria in Germany is named for it's evergreen trees. One-third of the Black Forest today is Spruce, and Pine trees are close behind at 30%. Evergreen trees are (for)ever green, but none is more deeply, darkly green than mountain area Spruce trees like the Black Hills Spruce. There are no species of European Spruce trees named for the Black Forest, but the Rocky Mountains' Spruce trees which have remained for millions of years in the Black Hills were named well.

So, guess what percent of the trees covering the Black Hills are Black Hills Spruce trees? The Ponderosa Pine tree, also known as the Western Yellow Pine tree makes up over three quarters of the area's trees, 76%! Would you believe just 4% of the trees in the Black Hills are Black Hills Spruce Trees? Yeesh.

Spruce trees are not just valuable as evergreen trees suitable for rich, year 'round, dark green color from their dense needle-leaves, and of course, for Christmastime.

One of our customers worked at the Homestake Gold Mine after graduating from college. Left over from the 1876 Gold Rush to the Black Hills of South Dakota, where George Custer was supposed to chase away the prospectors bothering the Sioux Indians, but instead tried the opposite and got himself killed, the Homestake Gold mine is still operating today. The mine is a great tourist attraction, ranking right up there with Mount Rushmore, Crazy Horse Mountain, the indoor hot springs pool in the town of, well, Hot Springs. The Homestake Mine has produced more gold than any other mine in the entire western hemisphere, including the huge open-pit surface mines of Nevada.

Guess what species of tree from the forest of the Black hills has been favored for the timber supports and structures down in the mine all these 120-odd years ? It was the aptly named Black Hills Spruce, because the Spruce wood is better able to stand up to being constantly bumped and being constantly wet (you wouldn't believe just how wet underground mines are our customer tells us) than the far more locally common Ponderosa Pine wood.

How about that? If you want to mine your property with an underground operation, you'll be able to cut down your mature Spruce trees in just 30 years after you plant the seedlings you bought from SeedlingsRus, or maybe just half that time, 15 years, if you get 6-foot saplings. Planting seedlings

All people handling seedlings need to help with the life support of your plants. Seedlings are like fish out of water and need care which is often overlooked between the time the seedlings are lifted and transplanted. Improper care means higher mortality. Do not try and reinvent the wheel. You must protect seedling from moisture and temperature extremes, as well as physical damage. Seedlings are living and should be handled carefully. For a higher survival rate, treat trees carefully and plant them immediately. I like to have a backup plan for planting if the weather turns bad. I will sometimes switch from lining out the seedlings to potting them up if I realize that the soil conditions will not be right for an extended lenght of time. If planting must be delayed a few days, keep the plants in a cold, protected place with air circulation between the trees. Keep the trees out of the rain and wind. To check if the trees need water, feel the media at the roots.. If it isn't damp, water the trees and allow the excess water to drain. In cool, damp weather, the biggest threat to these trees is from mold. Try to keep out of soil seedlings moist by either restricting water loss with a water vapor barrier or by wetting the roots at regular intervals. While handling or planting try to reduce temperature and air movement around the seedlings. Windy days can dry out seedlings so consider waiting for calmer weather. Once your soil conditions are correct OUR FREE USE PLANTERS will make planting a snap so its will be worth waiting for good planting conditions.

HOW TO PLANT

Ideal planting days are cool and cloudy with little or no wind. If possible, avoid planting on warm, windy days. The soil should be moist not wet. Care in planting is more important than speed. Make sure the roots are never allowed to become dry. Bare root seedlings should be carried in a waterproof bag or bucket with plenty of moist material packed around the roots to keep them damp. Ideally, bare root boxes should be kept refrigerated or packed in ice or snow. Don't freeze the trees. Competition from weeds, grass, brush or other trees is very detrimental to survival and growth of seedlings. Choose areas free from this competition or clear at least a three-foot square bare spot before planting. Seedlings should not be planted under the crown of existing trees, or closer than 6 feet to existing brush. Avoid areas near walnut trees. Brush aside loose organic material such as leaves, grass, etc., from the planting spot to expose mineral soil. If organic matter gets into the planting hole, it can decompose and leave air spaces. Roots will dry out when they grow into these spaces. Open up the hole, making sure the hole is deep enough for the roots to be fully extended. If roots are curled or bunched up, the tree will not be able to take up water correctly, will often weaken and die, or may blow down later due to poor root structure. Take a tree out of your planting bag or bucket only after a hole is ready. When exposed, the fine roots can dry out in as little as 30 seconds. Seedling shoots and roots lose water to air, roots require more protecting.Unlike leaves ,they do not have stomata (closeable openings on the surface of the leaves) or any waxy coatings to help reduce water loss. If the roots apear dry they are probably dead. Now I know you are thinking,""I will place them in a buckect of water and store them there until planting"". This will not work. Submerge plants for no longer that a couple of minutes. Placing them in water cuts them off from oxygen. Remember to remove the container before planting a containerized tree. A helpful hint to all those new gardeners just starting is to remember to always plant green side up. Hold the seedling in place in the hole, making sure the roots are straight, fully extended and that the tree is neither too shallow or too deep in the hole. Fill hole, allowing soil to fall in around the roots. Tamp with hands or with your heel. Don't crush the roots by jumping up and down around the seedling like there is a snake curled up around the seedling. It is delicate. Fill with more soil, if necessary, and tamp. Tamping is important. If soil is not firmly packed around the roots, there will be air pockets that can dry out the roots, and the seedlings may be weakly anchored. It is far easier to plant the tree strait up then have the tree leaning and have to staiten the tree later. (Addition of fertilizer and plant vitamins at the time of planting is not generally necessary.) Take your time in planting. Proper spacing will help you grow a more valuable crop. I have tried to get more production from a limited area by over planting and then thinning, but I always have had trouble in harvesting .... digging is slower and poor quality usually results for a portion of the crop. Avoid these tree planting errors:

Tangled roots Planting too shallow Planting too deep Air pockets Turned up roots (this is called J rooting) Planting trees that are not tolerant of wet soils in poorly drained areas Planting over rocks, septic tanks and leach fields, on sand mounds

CARE OF TREES FOLLOWING PLANTING Check periodically to be sure that brush, grass and other vegetation is kept under control by mowing, mulching, spraying or a combination of these treatments. Always obtain advice from a licensed pest control advisor before using chemicals. You ag extension agency may offer courses in application of chemicals. Monitoring the appearance of your trees will help you to detect signs of insects, diseases or other problems. Apperances also help sell your product. Look for foliage turning yellow, new foliage drooping or other signs of poor health. It is easier to take successful corrective action if the problem is detected early.

Over watering is a common problem in irrigated plantations. You probably won't need to water more frequently than every 7-10 days. Give your trees a thorough, deep soak and then let the soil dry out before the next watering. This encourages the roots to grow down in search of water. Frequent, shallow watering encourages root growth near the surface and the trees are more dependent on irrigation and are less windfirm. Read about water saving ideas for gardeners

Animals can be a major cause of damage to young trees. Porcupines, gophers, mice, rabbits, deer and cattle are the most frequent source of damage. In many states you may have to call your game commission and get their recomendations on legal methods to protect your crop. In our state, you can get help from the Pa. Game Commission to kill deer that are a threat to your seedlings or obtain a free fence to keep deer away from your seedlings. Over the years we have lost more trees to mice than any other animal. Put rat baits out on a regular basis. Other articles that you will find of interest:

http://seedlingsrus.com/DeerDamageControl http://seedlingsrus.com/NewConstruction http://seedlingsrus.com/Soils http://seedlingsrus.com/PlantingTips.html http://www.zone5trees.com/GrowingGrasses.html

About the author: Bill has been raising and planting spruce seedling for 30 years at his Doylestown Pa. farm.

The Walking Leaf

Author: Vanina Mangano

Article: Imagine - you are sitting in your garden, working on your latest gardening project, when, suddenly, a leaf walks leisurely by. At this point, you may wonder whether you've spent too many consecutive hours in your garden...but relax, you have not gone bananas. Well, the scenario may not happen in quite this way, but we've all likely seen the mysterious 'walking leaf' bug at one time or another.

The walking leaf insect, also known as Phasmida, from the Phylliidae family, can sometimes be found in our very own gardens. It would actually be a rare instance to see these insects in motion, since they are experts at camouflaging themselves, and they only feed at night. The natural question, at this point, is whether or not you as a gardener should fear these little creatures. Unlike other plant eaters, the leaf bug is rarely considered to be a plague, even by farmers. Occasionally, they can be considered pests to the eucalyptus trees, where they can reproduce in great numbers and cause a major problem - a female can lay thousands of eggs within her lifetime, which is only up to 18 months long. Otherwise, Phasmidas are considered to be very passive and are strictly vegetarians. Unlike other plant-eating insects, the leaf bugs will eat an entire leaf, rather than taking random bites of many leaves. This makes their trail difficult to find, allowing them to go unnoticed for a period of time.

The walking leaves range from 20-330 millimeters long, and are green or brown in color. Because of their shape and color, they may be difficult to find, especially when they are on the defense, at which time they may play dead by falling to the floor, or sway slightly as a leaf would in the wind. Otherwise, they choose to remain extremely still.

What makes the walking leaf very interesting is that they have the ability to reproduce through thenogenesis - without mating. When this occurs, however, all eggs will result in female off-springs, whereas mating would result in both male and female reproduction. Within the 50 different leaf bug species, some males are said to be extinct.

This may be difficult to believe for some, but the walking leaf bug has become a popular pet. Caring of the leaf bug is very easy and does not require high maintenance, so is great for both kids and adults. Because of their unique shapes, framed leaf bugs have also become a popular decoration and sell for over $200.

So the next time you notice a suspicious, moving leaf, or one that looks right back at you, you can rest easy knowing it is just the Phasmida!

About the author: Vanina Mangano is co-founder of MYeFlora, an online gardening community. Vanina is a business professional and a passionate gardener who enjoys writing about and participating in nature. Visit her site at http://www.myeflora.com.

Landscaping: 3 Ways to Use Concrete in your Yard

Author: Carlo Morelli

Article: The mental images that the word concrete invokes may not be of something you'd want in your yard but in fact, the landscaping industry has begun to incorporate concrete materials in their designs the past few years with surprising results. Now concrete's use is growing with the introduction of stained concrete finishes to include patios and driveways as well. You can make use of concrete for various parts of your yard.

1) The most common use is concrete block designs for walkways and paths through a garden. This is usually seen in larger yards but even if your yard is small it can accommodate concrete landscaping. It could be a small patio built from concrete blocks for you and your family to sit in the sun on. It could be a simple concrete planter or two for a small container garden. Or simply a concrete sundial in a flower bed.

2) Stone walls are another form of concrete landscaping that has really caught on. Walls frame the whole home like a frame to a prized painting. There are many reasons to have concrete walls. These walls work well for keeping small pets in the yard, and good for keeping intruders out. The harder your home is to get into the less likely burglars will be to bother trying.

3) You can also use concrete landscaping to keep your soil in place. If there is a part of your yard that on an incline then you can build a retaining wall expressly for this purpose. Concrete blocks come in many shapes and textures and you are sure to find a style you like.

Another thing about concrete that makes it so suited to landscaping is that while it can be quite functional and rugged it also can give the appearance of being purely decorative. There is so much that you can do with concrete in landscaping because it is so easy to work with. You can use concrete landscaping bricks, blocks or whole solid slabs. You can even get custom made concrete landscaping stones that are unique in shape and pattern. Take some time to visit your local nursery or landscaping supply stores and have a look at the concrete landscaping materials, you will definitely get some ideas for your next backyard project.

About the author: Carlo Morelli writes for www.OnlineTips.org, where you can find tips on <a href=""http://onlinetips.org/installing-fiberglass-insulation"">ins talling fiberglass insulation</a>, <a href=""http://onlinetips.org/replace-door"">how to replace an entry door</a> and many other home and garden projects.

Gardening: Tips for Autumn Vegetable Growing

Author: Carlo Morelli

Article: Due to their fears of early winter frosts, a lot of gardeners do not think about fall gardening. If you're one of them maybe a few tips can make you change your mind. You should, because fall gardening produces some first-rate vegetables long after spring planted plants are finished. Autumn garden vegetables are can be sweeter and milder than those grown in summer and present a different taste to the same old veggies. What are the best plants to grow during the fall, of course, depends on space available, your climate zone, and what you like to eat, just like spring planting. Even heat-loving crops, like tomatoes, sweet potatoes and peppers, will produce until frosts hit, which can be fairly late in the year in southern zones.

Then there are other plants that will give up as early as the end of summer, such as cucumbers, snap-beans and summer squash. Still, they can be harvested up until the first frosts also if planted mid-summer. Hardy vegetables - potatoes, carrots and other root and tubers will keep growing until the temperature is as low as 20 degrees, but those that aren't as strong can only grow through light frosts.

When planning for fall gardening, look on seed packages for the words ""early season"", or seeds sporting the least days to maturity. Choosing the vegetables with the shortest growing season helps ensure they can be fully grown and harvested prior to the appearance of frost. You may want to shopping for fall gardening seeds in spring or early summer when the stores are still completely stocked. Seeds stored in a cool and dry location will keep until time to plant.

Speaking of time to plant, you need to know when the first hard frost will usually hit your area in order to know exactly when the best time to plant for fall gardening is. I recommend looking this up in a Farmer's Almanac. They are rarely wrong and will give you specific dates. You also need to know just how long your plants are going to take to mature. Then you will be able to match up the plants with the right growing times to your area.

Prepping your soil for fall gardening starts with getting rid of any leftover spring-summer crops and debris. These leftovers may spread bacteria and disease to your new plants if left in your garden. Increase the nutrients in the soil by spreading a couple inches of compost or mulch over the garden area. If summer plants were fertilized heavily it may not need much, however, if any. Turn over the soil's top layer, moisten it, and let set for 12-24 hours. Congratulations, you're ready to start planting. Many gardeners shun fall gardening in order not to deal with frosts, but if robust, hardy vegetables are planted properly they can survive a few frosts and provide some wonderful tasting fresh food.

About the author: Carlo Morelli writes for www.OnlineTips.org, where you can find tips on <a href=""http://onlinetips.org/installing-fiberglass-insulation"">ins talling fiberglass insulation</a>, <a href=""http://onlinetips.org/replace-door"">how to replace an entry door</a> and many other home and garden projects.

Gardening By The Yard Tips

Author: George Hapgood

Article: You have always been envious of your neighbors' spruced up garden by the yard. Flowers and lush shrubs abound in their tiny nook of paradise. You ask yourself why you never get to have that kind of garden. And, you usually dismiss such wondering with lines like ""I don't have a green thumb!"" or ""I can't afford a gardener or a professional landscaper,"" which are both lame alibis.

If you want your yard to look regal with a simple but well-maintained garden, you only need two things - determination and the know-how of such an endeavor. Psyche yourself to muster such will that would consequently urge you to look for sources of information on how to go about it.

For your own gardening happiness, here's a rundown of tips on how to make your gardening by the yard endeavor a very rewarding one.

1. Deadheading

One good rule of the green thumb is to keep your border free from wilted flowers and dried leaves. Deadheading or removing dead flowers' heads will promote the blooming of your plants. Some perennials such as phlox, daylily, and Lady's Mantle get their growth jumpstarted by deadheading.

2. Prune selectively

It is a must to shorten the size of your annuals through selective pruning. This will help the plants to grow more.

3. Pinch out tops.

Certain plants respond when their tops get pinched out. Such plants include Coleus (a foliage plant) and herbs.

4. Fertilize lightly.

A minimal amount of fertilizer will further boost the growth of your vegetation. If you water your yard frequently, you have to fertilize it more regularly because of nutrient depletion.

5. Weed out.

This is one of the best ways to preserve the beauty of your garden by the yard. Moreover, removing weeds also provide better absorption of the soil's nutrients. If you can't help but use herbicide, do this safely and make sure that other plants don't get affected.

6. Water them well

One good tip when it comes to watering your garden by the yard is to do it for shorter periods of time, more often. It will do well if you increase your frequency of watering a bit come summer time. But doubling the time you water your plants will do more harm than good, e.g. erosion.

7. Say no to chemicals

Chemical is just as bad to plants as it is with humans. So better avoid using it as a pesticide. Physical pest controls or other alternatives are better options.

With these simple tips, soon enough you won't have to go green with envy with your neighbor's spectacular garden by the yard.

About the author: You Too can have a green thumb. Visit Georges Blog here http://www.push-button-online-income.com/gardening

Edible Trees and Plants

Author: B Hirst

Article: Highland Hill Farm just doesn't sell and install ""landscaping beauty."" We're providing you with food and raw materials! Of course you already know that you can use the wood from your trees instead of going to a lumber yard or home supplies center. You've learned about the historical use of the Viburnum's straight branches for making arrow shafts. Then, the hardwood trees you have planted can provide fruits or nuts.

But did you know you can rub the powder found on the bark of a Quaking Aspen tree on your skin and it works as mosquito repellent. You see, mosquito repellent actually works not because the mosquitoes are driven away by the offensive smell, but because there are chemical compounds whose odor blocks the mosquito's sensory receptors effectively hiding us. So, you can be invisible to mosquitoes by buying mosquito repellent with ""DEET,"" an organic hydrocarbon molecule, or use the powder from the bark of your Quaking Aspen tree, an organic molecule from a whole 'nuther source.

Edible Wild plants. Yes you can safely eat the following:

The leaves of the Quaking Aspen also make a tasty tea which will cure minor headaches. The Quaking aspen leaves contain salicylic acid, the active ingredient of (acetylsalicylic) aspirin. Silver Birch trees' bark makes a tea which has long been considered as medicinal as chicken soup.

Arborvitae , the ""lifegiving tree,"" obviously has made a superbly beneficial tea for centuries. The leaves and bark both are boiled in water to yield Vitamin C along with the tannins, etc. and prevent or cure scurvy. Maybe you don't like orange juice, or more likely, have been given a dietary restriction for citrus fruit. Just have some tea from a Thuja Occidentalis, the Eastern Cedar, or Eastern White Cedar, also called Northern White Cedar, boy oh boy, the Arborvitae sure has alot of names! Anyway, you can check on the value of Arborvitae Tea; Just get a time machine, go back to 1536 near Quebec, and ask the explorer Jacques Cartier and his men. Burdock is edible. (But it tastes very bitter)

From the popular dogwood tree, you can eat the berries. NOT the plant, bark, or leaves, but the Dogwood's fruit, the berries, are edible (sad note, you will likely find the berries taste almost as bitter as burdock plant). The inside bark of a cottonwood tree tastes pretty fair. The white inside part of a cattail tastes very good. It's like a mild cucumber. Watercress is sold as a delicacy in restaurants. It has a strong flavor, tasting rather spicy like radishes) Poplar bark is tolerable. Anise is truly delicious if you like black licorice. Dandelion leaves make a great salad, the roots can be roasted and then ground to make a kind of coffee or tea drink with boiled water, or you can even make dandelion wine. Any kind of mint can be grown alongside your shrubs and flowers. Be sure you harvest it often or some species of mint will become ""an invasive"" and take over your whole yard.

Wild rose hips can be rather expensive to buy, but are high in Vitamin C, an ingredient in many teas. Just don't eat the flowers or plant stems. Thistle is more like a weed, a real weed, but if you'll scrape the thorns off (duh!) you can eat the leaf or the inside of the blossom as salad greens. Berries. whether strawberries, raspberries, chokecherries (can seem like too much pit to be worth it), currants (Tart tasting), serviceberries, gooseberries (green, ""stripy"" and very TART!), purple elderberries (red ones are poisonous), cranberries, and best of all, blueberries are just about the best example of what we can eat that grows wild. Don't eat sumac berries, they are poisonous!

Prickly Pear Cactus is indeed a succulent. Scrape off the skin, boil the inside, and you'll see why it is botanically classified as ""succulent."" Clover can be eaten as a salad green. You can even eat the four-leafed ones for extra folic acid to go with your good luck. Did you know it has been claimed an apple can be more helpful for waking up in the morning than a cup of coffee, or the more caffeine-rich orange-colored teas? A morning or two, try an apple fresh-picked from your own apple tree and see if you feel the lift.

Our use plant links

http://seedlingsrus.com/Arborvitae.html

http://seedlingsrus.com/FreeFencing.html

http://seedlingsrus.com/Winter http://zone5trees.com/Hedges

http://zone5trees.com/PlantingInstructions.html http://zone5trees.com/ProfitsGrowingTrees.html

http://seedlingsrus.com/GrowingRhodies.html

About the author: Bill has been raising trees and plants for over 45 years in Doylestown Pa. on his 220 acre farm.

Kick Start Your Landscape With Winter Gardening Tips

Author: B Hirst

Article: Winter Gardening Tips

Winter can be a bleak hard time of the year for the grower of nursery stock. The days are short and the nights are long. Yet growing plants is a year round activity that does require the grower to be performings tasks.

Watering plants can be be on your list. The ground may not be frozen and plants still use water. If the ground is not frozen you can still water if the ground will accept the water. Most plants are dormant so the amount of watering is not as high as in the hotter seasons. Evergreens lose water through their needles in the winter. So if one keeps watering as long as possible into the winter, seedlings and plants will suffer less stress. Winter drying of evergreens is a major stress factor in growing seedlings and potted stock.

Snow and ice on your seedlings and liners can be problematic. Starting with a more developed plant is the best solution to this problem. Tall thin seedlings that have not been root pruned and transplanted are not as sturdy a plant. They tend to bend under snow loads and may require staking later to train them strait. If your seedlings have a light amount of snow covering them you may ease the snow burden by lightly sweeping the snow with a broom. Don't shake them, they are like babies ... they get shaken baby syndrome. If snow or ice is frozen to the branches, allow it to melt rather than attempting to correct. If any branches are broken, you probably don't need to do anything unless there is a split in the trunk. If the breakage of the plant is sever, the seedling or liner shoud be discarded. The labor to correct is not worth the value of the plant. Also a poor quality seedling will probably be a poor quality mature plant. There is a market for such plants however, we have had many customers who want, "" Charly Brown Trees"" or stunted trees for unusual customer needs.

Warm spells in the winter occur. Suddenly, there can be days of warmer temperatures. This should not be a problem. If you have covering on or over the plants, you may need to ventilate. We normally open the doors to our greenhoses and this is usually all that is necessary. Cold frame temps may rise so ventilation will be helpful. Close up as nightfall arrives as the temperature will fall. Note that when sunlight intensity is high, plant tissues become active. Water loss at this time can't be replaced if the root balls are frozen. This is called plant desiccation. Also if there many freeze-thaw cycles, the crown of the plant will be heaved up exposing the roots. Root systems have a lower tolerance to temperature extremes and can killed by freezing low temperatures.A common way to prevent desiccation is to screen plants in exposed areas with Burlap .

Varmit control is important in the winter. Mice and rabbits feed constantly . Their teeth grow constantly and they love to chew on tender plants. We spread rat and mice bait about every two to threes weeks as long as we see it being consumed. Try and place the baits in a place where its easy to moniter, dry, and accessable only to the varmits. When the snow gets deep mice will feed up higher on the plants. They don't like to dig in the snow for food. They take the easy to reach food first. Thus tracks in the snow are an important sign to watch for. Mouse damage is usually not correctable. You may not see root feeding damage to stock till spring, so over baiting is the best solution. Care should be taken that the baits are only available to the target varmit.

Ordering seedlings early in the winter is your best way to assure a supply. We can ship many of our seedlings durring the winter but we recommend that you have them shipped after the winter weather is over. This will vary according to your location. If you get the seedlings and you can't plant them upon arrival, keep them in a cool place in your house or barn. Your basement may be an ideal place. Keep the roots from freezing. It will be hard to get your order filled in April because growers do sell out. What we dont sell, we line out for our nursery, Highland Hill Farm. We sell all sizes of plants from seedlings to large caliper trees. We also have our free use planters for you to use when you buy seedlings and liners from us. You can see more articles by Bill Hirst at http://www.seedlingsrus.com

http://seedlingsrus.com/Arborvitae.html http://seedlingsrus.com/FreeFencing.html http://seedlingsrus.com/Winter http://zone5trees.com/Hedges http://zone5trees.com/PlantingInstructions.html http://zone5trees.com/ProfitsGrowingTrees.html http://seedlingsrus.com/GrowingRhodies.html

About the author: Bill has been growing trees and Plants on his Doylestown farm for 25 years.

Landscaping Ideas: Using Landscaping Rock for Maximum Effect

Author: Carlo Morelli

Article: Looking to give you yard some something special to set it apart from those in the rest of your neighborhood? Want to add some depth and texture to your landscaping design? Landscaping rock comes in many different forms, is inexpensive, and used sparingly, give a garden a warm, natural look.

Not only is there a good selection of colors, landscaping rock comes in different kinds of stone to choose among, from limestone to slate to granite. Different landscaping designs call for different types of landscaping rock, obviously, but given all the choices it is easy to get just the right rock.

If you are landscaping a new property, when you first clear the ground and rototill the soil for your yard, you'll no doubt find a few choice rocks you wish you hadn't. Don't have them hauled way; these can be set aside and used in your landscaping. It could save you time and expense later on. The trick to using rock in landscaping effectively, as with any form of hardscaping, is to completely incorporate them into your yard's design. Locate them in places that will add to the yard, not where it looks like you are trying to cover something up or take attention away from another part of the yard. Plan just where each landscaping rock should be placed for maximum effect and balance.

Take the time to bury your rock and it will improve it's look, making them appear planted. They will integrate better into the overall design and look as if this is where they belong.

How far you bury your rock in the ground will depend upon the landscaping rock that you select. If you have a very large piece of rock then it should be buried deeper than a smaller landscaping rock. Four to six inches is a good depth for a medium size rock. Dig a shallow hole about the size of your landscaping rock and place the rock into it. Use common sense here and get help lifting it. If it is a larger piece, you may need to rent lifting equipment or hire a contractor for this part. Finally tuck back the dirt into the gap around the rock.

Next time that you are out walking or hiking in the woods, keep an eye out for larger rocks and boulders. Look at how they naturally sit in the ground and you'll see what kind of a look the landscaping rock in your yard should have. This is the kind of detail that will set your yard off from the rest of your neighbors.

About the author: Carlo Morelli writes for www.OnlineTips.org, where you can find tips on <a href=""http://onlinetips.org/installing-fiberglass-insulation"">ins talling fiberglass insulation</a>, <a href=""http://onlinetips.org/replace-door"">how to replace an entry door</a> and many other home and garden projects.

Things You Should Consider When Buying Your First Garden Leaf Blower

Author: Leonard Mutch

Article: Want to save yourself some time?

Collecting leaves with the aid of a <b>garden leaf blower</b> is considerably less time-consuming and less back breaking work when compared to using a garden rake or other such tools. The general idea of a leaf blower is pretty straightforward. A high-speed fan is surrounded by a cover. Tubes are then connected to the side of the fan to focus the air current (up to around 200 miles per hour in some units) in the direction you want to move the leaves.

What do I need to consider?

First of all consider the size of your garden and your exposure to fallen leaves. Do you have a large yard? If you have only a small garden and no trees or bushes then you will not need a garden leaf blower, but if you have a large garden and wish to have it looking clean at all times then a garden leaf blower would be a wise investment and a great time saver for you.You will want to bear these factors in mind when you consider the features of the different models.

Garden leaf blowers come in all shapes and sizes depending on their use.

Leaf blowers include both small one-hand models and powerful, professional types which can be carried in a harness on your back.Consider one with a harness particularly if you suffer from back or neck problems, as the harness will take a good deal of the load off your shoulders and arms.

Consider too, the blowing speed and air volume the different models put out, as a high blowing speed would cut down the time needed for the blowing operation. Most garden leaf blowers will have a rating of 350 to 600 cubic feet of air per minute (CFM).

A low vibration level would also be preferable with ergonomic handles and harnesses to help you to work more efficiently with less strain on the hands, arms and shoulders.

Handheld garden leaf blowers can be generally divided into two groups: those that can collect leaves and those that can't. With a garden leaf blower you can do much more than just move leaves. It can also be used to collect rubbish, grass clippings, hedge clippings, and empty tin cans.

Your choice of garden leaf blower should have an efficient system to minimise vibrations in the parts of the machine that you or the user comes in contact with.

Make a note of the weight of each type of garden leaf blower too, as some blowers can weigh as much as 25lb or 12kg. You'd have to be doing an awful lot of blowing to be needing the 25lb model!

Consider too, a model with the ability to vacuum all you leaves into a bag rather than blowing them all away. Another great time saver when it comes to disposing of the leaves. An extra mulching feature is available on some leaf blower/vacuums. Mulched lawn debris can be used in compost piles or bagged for disposal. Most of these convert easily from blowing to vacuuming mode.

Making your choice between an electric or gas-powered unit isn't always easy! Gas blowers are more powerful, but electric ones are quieter.The engine should be powerful and easy to start if you choose a gasoline model. Do you live in a busy neighborhood where a quieter operation would be appreciated? Or is your yard massive with lots of trees, making a powerful unit the only real option?

Choose a model within your price range with the best selection of features. You can expect to pay anywhere between $100 and $500 for a decent garden leaf blower, depending upon the specifications you choose.

About the author: <b>About the author</b> Leonard Mutch is a keen gardener and author. You can read more of his tips and articles at <a href=""http://www.gardenleafblower.com/Garden-Leaf-Blower-Maintena nce.html "" target=""_blank"">Blow Leaf</a>

What's in Store for National Home Gardening Club Members?

Author: Nicky Pilkington

Article: The National Home Gardening Club offer many benefits to its members.

It is said to be the largest home gardening organization with paid membership. For a nominal fee, various benefits are available.

If you choose to become a member the National Home Gardening club, you will be entitled to the following perks. 1. Members can enter competitions to win free gardening products such as gardening accessories, tools, and other gardening supplies.

2. A coupon will be given to members to claim a free gardening shears.

3. Members can also access a free trial subscription of the Gardening How-To Magazine.

4. They may be eligible to test and keep gardening tools such as pruning shears. These are some of the products tested by members in the past two issues of the Gardening How-To magazine:

- Honda Harmony Lawn Mower - Miracle-Gro Garden Weed Preventer - Sunflower Garden - Cobra Head Precision Weeder and Cultivator - Preen 'n Green

5. Members can enjoy a free directory of public gardens, which contains information about lush gardens, arboretums, and conservatories throughout the US.

6. They can interact and talk about tips, ideas and methods with other members.

7. Members can obtain gardening and landscaping tips and plans for the completion of various gardening projects.

8. They have access to the members-only gardening website.

9. Members can also preview gardening books, gardening videos, etc.

Indeed, the for-members-only benefits are that grandiose. They are all for the gardening enthusiasts to grab.

After the 30-day trial, you can continue your membership for only $1 per month.

Many garden-lovers think this is a small price to pay for all these privileges.

About the author: Find more about <a href=http://aboutgardening.org>gardening</a> and some <a href=http://aboutgardening.org>useful gardening tips</a> at <a href=http://aboutgardening.org>About Gardening</a>

Online Gardening Catalogues At Your Disposal

Author: Nicky Pilkington

Article: Are you searching for gardening catalogues? What kind of gardening and plants do you prefer to read about? There is a wide selection available online. Here are a few websites that offer gardening catalogues. Check out the URL to see if they are free or not.

1. www.jacksonsnurseries.co.uk

Along with nursery facilities, Jackson Nurseries offer landscape designing, ground designing and wholesale plants at wholesale prices.

2. www.mzbulb.com

If you are looking for flower bulbs, McClure and Zimmerman have each and every variety. They have a no fuss website navigation that allows interested clients to easily order gardening catalogs.

3. www.gardennursery.com

In business for over 50 years, Nichols Garden Nursery has an online catalogue unit offering seeds and plants. Their 76 page free gardening catalogue can be ordered by filling out their catalogue request form online.

4. www.gurneys.com

Gurneys offer great deals like buy one, get one free. They also have a no-risk guarantee and a scheduled shipping of orders according to categories of plants, i.e., roses, herbs, shrubs, and trees, tender annuals, and all other plants and bulbs.

5. www.homeharvest.com

Home Harvest Garden Supply offers alternative gardening products, i.e., organic fertilizers, hydroponics, natural insect controls, container, hobby greenhouse, propagation and irrigation supplies, indoor plant grow lights and other rare gardening supplies. They offer an online catalogue for every gardening enthusiast.

6. www.jacksonandperkins.com

Jackson and Perkins are known to be one of the best American gardening experts. They are reaching out to other gardening aficionados through their website, offering gardening products through their catalogue. They sell a wide range of plants - from new award-winning roses and easy to grow perennials, to special outdoor decor. Flowering gifts may also be sent directly to your friends by ordering from their site. 7. www.thegardenwindow.com

This site offers an online catalogue that specializes in imported Chinese tree peonies (from Mainland, China).

While free online catalogues may be good source of gardening supply information, you may also be deluged with a flood of promotion about other products.

About the author: Find more about <a href=http://aboutgardening.org>gardening</a> and some <a href=http://aboutgardening.org>useful gardening tips</a> at <a href=http://aboutgardening.org>About Gardening</a>

Attracting Hummingbirds

Author: Vanina Mangano

Article: Attracting hummingbirds to your backyard and garden is much easier than it sounds. These small birds have a special knack for finding their favorite flowers, and a powerful memory for returning to their favorite spots - even after years of visiting! A common mistake is to think that hummingbirds find their feeding ground through a flower's scent, but this is untrue - they have nearly no sense of smell. Instead, they seek out tubular shaped flowers, heavy with nectar, and specific colors, such as red, pink, and orange. This is why hummingbird feeders work so well: they typically are lined with the color red, or other strong colors. A major plus is that hummingbirds are always on the look out for new places to feed. This does not mean that once they find a new feeding ground they will abandon yours - these birds must feed at least every 10 minutes, so the more the better!

To start, try some or all of the following:

- Plant a hummingbird garden. A great part of a hummingbird's diet consists of sugar, which they get from nectar and tree sap. Here are some of the many plants that make a great hummingbird paradise:

--Flowers: Canna, Foxglove, Lupine, Yucca, Coral Bells, Agapanthus, Petunia, Impatiens, Fuschias, Begonia, Honeysuckle

--Trees/Shrubs: Azalea, Red Buckeye, Lantana, Butterfly Bush

--Vines: Honeysuckle, Morning Glory, Trumpet Creeper, Cypress Vine

- Hang a hummingbird feeder. These are very easy to find and affordable. You can buy a special feeder mix, or make your own by boiling 1 part sugar to 4 parts water 2 cups water for two hours. A word of caution: do not use food coloring or any type of dye, honey, or artificial flavors - these will harm the hummingbirds.

- Hummingbirds are very territorial. If possible, we recommend hanging at least two feeders.

- Red is a very attractive color to them. Tying a red ribbon near your feeder will make them curious enough to explore, as well as making the feeder more visible.

- Clean your feeder at least one time per month. Not only will you continue to provide hummingbirds with a great feeding source, but you will keep them coming (they will not feed on spoiled syrup).

- Hummingbirds spend 80% of their time perching. By including possible perching plants or other perching-potential items in your garden, hummingbirds will be more likely to linger and return.

- Bathing in running water is a pleasing hummingbird pastime - they love dripping water. They enjoy misted leaves to bathe in, so adding water misters near plants with wide leaves is a definite attraction.

- Eucalyptus trees are desirable to hummingbirds not only because they provide good perching ground, but also because they use them for nesting material.

- Hummingbirds don't just feed from nectar. Part of their diet is made up of protein that they get from little insects that they eat, particularly fruit flies. Because of this, it is best not to use pesticide in your hummingbird garden, since the birds may feed on infected insects and become ill themselves.

By following some or all of the above suggestions, you should see some hummers very soon. Although, keep in mind that many hummingbirds do migrate, depending on your region, so do not become discouraged if they do not show immediately - there are many online resources outlining migratory and species information, such as www.hummingbirds.net.

Some fun hummingbird facts:

- They take nectar at 13 licks per second

- They can consume up to 2/3 of their body weight daily

- They can flap their wings 60-200 times per second

- Their Heart beats up to 1260 times per second

- They can fly up, down, forward, backward, and sideways

- Some migration routes consist of up to 600 miles in length

- There are 16 different species

- Feet are only used for perching

- They can fly up to 60 miles per hour

About the author: Vanina Mangano is co-founder of MYeFlora, an online gardening community. Vanina is a business professional and a passionate gardener who enjoys writing about and participating in nature. Visit her site at http://www.myeflora.com.

Vegetable Gardening Tips

Author: Nicky Pilkington

Article: With the costs of living rising all the time, it may be possible to save money and increase your family's health at the same time by growing vegetables in your backyard.

It's a good idea to choose your favourite vegetables to grow and plan beds for early, middle of the season and late varieties.

Most vegetables require at least 6 hours of sunlight per day, some need 8. Some quick growers like lettuce and radish can be grown between the rows of plants that take longer to mature, like beet or corn, thus making full use of the area available.

Throughout dry periods, vegetable gardens need extra watering. Most vegetables benefit from an inch or more of water each week, especially when they are fruiting.

During the growing season watch for insect pests. If you discover a bug problem early it will be much easier, but be careful to not use pesticides once the vegetable are close to being picked unless it becomes an absolute necessity. Organic gardening is one healthy and environment-friendly option. Once you have reaped your crop, put the vegetable waste into your compost pile so that it can be recycled for next spring.

It is important to protect your vegetable garden from wild animals looking for a tasty treat. Make sure your garden is surrounded by a fence that will keep out dogs, rabbits, and other animals. The harm done by wandering animals during one season can equal the cost of a fence. A fence also can serve as a frame for peas, beans, tomatoes, and other crops that need support.

Protection is needed in order for your vegetable garden to yield a bountiful harvest. Hard work will pay dividends if necessary precautions have been made.

About the author: Find more about <a href=http://aboutgardening.org>gardening</a> and some <a href=http://aboutgardening.org>useful gardening tips</a> at <a href=http://aboutgardening.org>About Gardening</a>

Landscaping Ideas: Discover Desert Landscaping Plants

Author: Carlo Morelli

Article: Life in an arid and dry climate has its benefits and challenges. I've found desert landscaping to be one of the more interesting challenges since moving to the Southwest. You're going to want to spend a little more planning time on your yard than it would normally for most other areas. You and your landscaper will need to work with a plan that includes only plants and trees that can survive with much less water. Nobody is going to plant something if it cannot sustain itself.

Even if you have a state of the art irrigation system to supply water around the clock, there will be times of drought and water rationing. Not to mention the initial cost and maintenance costs. It is much simpler for your desert landscape to simply use plants that will thrive even in the hot sun all day. So take some time with your landscaping plan to ensure that you have everything appropriate to the climate. Another benefit to using desert landscaping friendly plants is, that not only will these plants do well even in the hot sun; they will also be able to flourish in the low quality soil common to these climate zones. You will not need to add fertilizers and soil conditioners, which further will cut down on your maintenance time and expense. To start you off, here are two plants that are useful in desert landscaping: Longwood Blue Bluebeard

This is a deciduous shrub; it will grow back every spring. It will always return to its healthy and contented state each year, which makes it ideal for desert landscaping. Longwood Blue Bluebeard is a medium-sized shrub, growing to anywhere between 3 and 4 feet high with a width of around 2 feet. This is a handsome plant for use in desert landscaping' not only is it attractive, with its striking blue flower clusters and silver foliage, it is also quite fragrant. Autumn Joy

Autumn Joy is a perennial that you can employ well in desert landscaping. With this plant you will get abundant leaves in ornate whorls. These leaves can be many different colors, so Autumn Joy can be bought to go with your landscaping design. This plant is ideal for desert landscaping since it grows easily in rock gardens. This lovely desert plant also has unique attention-grabbing flowers distinct from any I have ever seen. The small flowers grow in clusters and can be different colors and shades, but most commonly are yellow, orange and red and pink. Also, be aware that if you plant these in your garden you will have butterflies around as they are attracted to the flowers, so be prepared to have your visitors ignore your lovely landscape and ooh and ahh over the butterflies!

There are many other unique plants to complement your desert landscaped backyard just like these, so have fun discovering them and enjoying your new garden.

About the author: Carlo Morelli writes for www.OnlineTips.org, where you can find tips on <a href=""http://onlinetips.org/installing-fiberglass-insulation"">ins talling fiberglass insulation</a>, <a href=""http://onlinetips.org/replace-door"">how to replace an entry door</a> and many other home and garden projects.

Planting Pine and Spruce Trees

Author: B Hirst

Article: Spruce and pine trees are fairly easy to plant because they are fairly rugged and durable. Yet to plant or transplant them you do need to follow some basic guidelines.

All people handling seedlings and small trees need to help with the life support of your plants. Seedlings are like fish out of water and need care which is often overlooked between the time the seedlings are lifted and transplanted. Improper care means higher mortality. Do not try and reinvent the wheel. You must protect seedling from moisture and temperature extremes, as well as physical damage. Seedlings are living and should be handled carefully. For a higher survival rate, treat trees carefully and plant them immediately. I like to have a backup plan for planting if the weather turns bad. I will sometimes switch from lining out the seedlings to potting them up if I realize that the soil conditions will not be right for an extended lenght of time. If planting must be delayed a few days, keep the plants in a cold, protected place with air circulation between the trees. Keep the trees out of the rain and wind. To check if the trees need water, feel the media at the roots.. If it isn't damp, water the trees and allow the excess water to drain. In cool, damp weather, the biggest threat to these trees is from mold. Try to keep out of soil seedlings moist by either restricting water loss with a water vapor barrier or by wetting the roots at regular intervals. While handling or planting try to reduce temperature and air movement around the seedlings. Windy days can dry out seedlings so consider waiting for calmer weather. Once your soil conditions are correct OUR FREE USE PLANTERS will make planting a snap so its will be worth waiting for good planting conditions.

HOW TO PLANT

Ideal planting days are cool and cloudy with little or no wind. If possible, avoid planting on warm, windy days. The soil should be moist not wet. Care in planting is more important than speed. Make sure the roots are never allowed to become dry. Bare root seedlings should be carried in a waterproof bag or bucket with plenty of moist material packed around the roots to keep them damp. Ideally, bare root boxes should be kept refrigerated or packed in ice or snow. Don't freeze the trees. Competition from weeds, grass, brush or other trees is very detrimental to survival and growth of seedlings. Choose areas free from this competition or clear at least a three-foot square bare spot before planting. Seedlings should not be planted under the crown of existing trees, or closer than 6 feet to existing brush. Avoid areas near walnut trees. Brush aside loose organic material such as leaves, grass, etc., from the planting spot to expose mineral soil. If organic matter gets into the planting hole, it can decompose and leave air spaces. Roots will dry out when they grow into these spaces. Open up the hole, making sure the hole is deep enough for the roots to be fully extended. If roots are curled or bunched up, the tree will not be able to take up water correctly, will often weaken and die, or may blow down later due to poor root structure. Take a tree out of your planting bag or bucket only after a hole is ready. When exposed, the fine roots can dry out in as little as 30 seconds. Seedling shoots and roots lose water to air, roots require more protecting.Unlike leaves ,they do not have stomata (closeable openings on the surface of the leaves) or any waxy coatings to help reduce water loss. If the roots apear dry they are probably dead. Now I know you are thinking,""I will place them in a buckect of water and store them there until planting"". This will not work. Submerge plants for no longer that a couple of minutes. Placing them in water cuts them off from oxygen. Remember to remove the container before planting a containerized tree. A helpful hint to all those new gardeners just starting is to remember to always plant green side up. Hold the seedling in place in the hole, making sure the roots are straight, fully extended and that the tree is neither too shallow or too deep in the hole. Fill hole, allowing soil to fall in around the roots. Tamp with hands or with your heel. Don't crush the roots by jumping up and down around the seedling like there is a snake curled up around the seedling. It is delicate. Fill with more soil, if necessary, and tamp. Tamping is important. If soil is not firmly packed around the roots, there will be air pockets that can dry out the roots, and the seedlings may be weakly anchored. It is far easier to plant the tree strait up then have the tree leaning and have to adjust the tree later. (Addition of fertilizer and plant vitamins at the time of planting is not generally necessary.) Take your time in planting. Proper spacing will help you grow a more valuable crop. I have tried to get more production from a limited area by over planting and then thinning, but I always have had trouble in harvesting .... digging is slower and poor quality usually results for a portion of the crop. Avoid these tree planting errors:

Tangled roots Planting too shallow Planting too deep Air pockets Turned up roots (this is called J rooting) Planting trees that are not tolerant of wet soils in poorly drained areas Planting over rocks, septic tanks and leach fields, on sand mounds

CARE OF TREES FOLLOWING PLANTING Check periodically to be sure that brush, grass and other vegetation is kept under control by mowing, mulching, spraying or a combination of these treatments. Always obtain advice from a licensed pest control advisor before using chemicals. You ag extension agency may offer courses in application of chemicals. Monitoring the appearance of your trees will help you to detect signs of insects, diseases or other problems. Apperances also help sell your product. Look for foliage turning yellow, new foliage drooping or other signs of poor health. It is easier to take successful corrective action if the problem is detected early.

Over watering is a common problem in irrigated plantations. You probably won't need to water more frequently than every 7-10 days. Give your trees a thorough, deep soak and then let the soil dry out before the next watering. This encourages the roots to grow down in search of water. Frequent, shallow watering encourages root growth near the surface and the trees are more dependent on irrigation and are less windfirm. Animals can be a major cause of damage to young trees. Porcupines, gophers, mice, rabbits, deer and cattle are the most frequent source of damage. In many states you may have to call your game commission and get their recomendations on legal methods to protect your crop. In our state, you can get help from the Pa. Game Commission to kill deer that are a threat to your seedlings or obtain a free fence to keep deer away from your seedlings. Over the years we have lost more trees to mice than any other animal. Put rat baits out on a regular basis. Over the years we have lost more seedlings and plants to mice than any other culprit including deer and rabbitts combined. You an see more articles about the care of trees plants and nursery stock at our web site http://www.seedlingsrus.com and http://www.highlandhillfarm.com

About the author: Bill has benn raising and selling spruces and pine trees on his Doylestown farm for over 25 years.

6 Easy Tips On How To Care For Your Plants

Author: George Hapgood

Article: Many people worry a lot when it comes to caring for their plants. When talking about house plants, there is no need to worry. There are just a few things you need to consider.

1. Watering A watering can is a must-have in every garden. It is recommended that you purchase the one with a narrow spout to ensure adequate watering. But that does not always apply, so the finger test may come in handy. Insert your index finger up to the first joint into the soil. If you feel that the soil is damp, don't water it. Otherwise, do.

2. Feeding With foliage plants, they always need to be high in nitrogen. For flowering plants, on the other hand, K2O is needed. Fertilizers such as the slow release ones can be mixed with the compost. However, some plants like cacti and orchids need special feeds. Feed plants on the height of their active growth.

3. Lighting Plants like Sanseveria and Aspidistra require no shade. They can be placed away from a window. Spider plants need semi-shade. You can put plants like these near a window that does or does not get sunlight. Others need sun or no sun at all like cheeseplants.

4. Temperature With houseplants, they can survive in temperatures a little bit higher than 15 - 250 C or 55 - 750 F. But drastic fluctuations of temperature may not be good for them.

5. Humidity Some houseplants require a humid environment. One tip to maximize humidity is to put the pot inside a larger pot and fill in the gaps with stones or compost to keep in the moisture. The compost will not dry out. Plants are capable of creating their own climate if grouped together. This tip can also be used for keeping the soil moist. If you want, you can spray them with water once or twice a day depending on the day's temperature.

6. Repotting Other plants require repotting for optimum growth but some plants may not be suitable for this idea. They would not want their roots to be disturbed or other plants' root system is small. One way to check if your plant needs repotting is to turn it upside down. Tap the pot to release the plant and check its roots. If roots are all you see, then repot.

You just need to have a little care for your plants and in turn, you'll reap its benefits. You don't only have a garden that can add to your house's beauty you can also learn how to respect and nurture life in its varied forms.

About the author: You Too can have a green thumb. Visit Georges Blog here http://www.push-button-online-income.com/gardening

More About Butterly Gardening

Author: Nicky Pilkington

Article: When creating a butterfly garden, the possibilities of what to include in your butterfly garden design are endless. Below are some suggestions to help get you started. They are designed to spark the creative process of your mind and get you started on your way to creating a lovely butterfly garden.

Before you even begin your butterfly garden, find out which species of butterflies are in your area. Consider taking an exploratory hike around your location with a butterfly identification book. This may take a little extra time and effort, but the results will be worth it. After you have compiled your list of local butterfly species, be sure to write down in your butterfly garden plan what these particular species of butterflies use for nectar and food plants.

Be sure that your garden is in a location that provides at least six hours of sunlight per day. Butterflies are cold-blooded creatures and therefore do better where they are warm and sheltered.

Wind can be a butterfly's worst enemy so be sure to have plenty of wind protection in your design. You can plant tall shrubs and other plants in order to create a wind break, but a location that avoids heavy winds is even better.

The best of all would be a butterfly garden placed on the sunny side of your home with windbreaks on both the west and east sides, or wherever the prevailing wonds come from in your area. Try and locate your garden close to a window so you can view the butterflies from indoors. Provide seating outside too.

If possible, you could excavate an area and build a stone wall around it. This would create the ideal windbreak for your butterflies. Mmake gravel pathways around your garden to save walking in mud.

There are many creative ways for constructing a butterfly garden. Take your time to design a garden that you will enjoy and be proud of.

About the author: Find more about <a href=http://aboutgardening.org>gardening</a> and some <a href=http://aboutgardening.org>useful gardening tips</a> at <a href=http://aboutgardening.org>About Gardening</a>

Choosing the Best Plants for Your Garden

Author: Nicky Pilkington

Article: Many times we buy plants on impulse then find there is nowhere in the garden that really suits them. Before buying plants carefully examine your garden to see how much sun and shade it gets, whether the soil is well drained or waterlogged and whether your aspect is sheltered or windswept. You'll then be equipped to go and buy the best plants for your situation; shade-loving plants for the sheltered areas, sun-lovers for the warm spots, drought-resistant plants for the parched areas which may be either sunny or shaded, and swamp plants for the poorly-drained parts.

But wait! Test your soil first, to determine the pH level of your soil and what kind of nutrients you need to add, if any. Is the soil acid or alkaline? Most plants prefer soil that is slightly acidic, but there are some that must have alkaline soil to grow. You can alter the soil's pH level, but it's much easier to simply plant for the soil you have.

Now you are ready to plant. Well - almost. Will you plant in groups or singly? If you buy 'one of everything' your garden may seem rather spotty. Group plantings are organised, harmonious and you can vary the color for interest.

Before planting out, place your chosen plants around the garden bed in their pots to see how they will look. Re-arrange them until you are satisfied. Grouping plants in sets of threes or fives usually looks better than planting in groups of even numbers. Be sure that you have an interesting combination of colors and textures of plants. Tall plants should go to the back, or the centre if your garden will be viewed equally from all sides. Try to keep your plants away from trees. The roots of trees are fiercely competitive and will steal all the nutrients and moisture meant for your flowers.

The right color scheme is one way to maintain the harmony in your garden. Imagine the color of the flowers when they are in bloom. Some colors may clash with others, but can still be planted side-by-side if they have a different blooming season. Foliage color is also important. Many flower plants have silver, grey or purplish foliage that is just as attractive as the flower. This means that they are still attractive well past the blooming season and so have added value.

About the author: Find more about <a href=http://aboutgardening.org>gardening</a> and some <a href=http://aboutgardening.org>useful gardening tips</a> at <a href=http://aboutgardening.org>About Gardening</a>

Gardening Tips: Avoiding Summertime Fungus

Author: Carlo Morelli

Article: Summertime is a time of great joy for the gardening enthusiast. He gets to gaze on his garden in it's full glory and show off the fruits of her efforts. Unfortunately, it is no time to rest on your laurels, as it were, because this is one of the times of year that funguses can take hold and destroy your plants. These type of plant diseases thrive on moisture and humidity, so they can quickly get out of hand.

Avoid Evening Watering

During summer, many climate zones are subjected to high humidity, which might result in lots of problems in your garden. To get your plants nice and dry, tuck them in for night nice and dry. In other words, watering in the evening should be avoided to prevent damage to the plants.

Plan for Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew is a common fungus mostly affecting ornamental plants. This fungal growth creates a white film on the leaves of the plants in your garden. It can be partially removed by rubbing the leaves, but unless you only have a few plants this isn't a very effective remedy. You should begin by applying a fungicide product containing Bacillus subtilis, jojoba oil, sulfur or lime sulfur when the initial white patches are observed. This fungus also favors closely spaced plants, densely growing plants, and shady areas. So take this into account when planning your garden layout if your summer climate has high humidity.

Prevention of Pythium Blight

If you're in the north, and have perennial Rye grass, then you need to be careful not to leave your grass wet at night. A fungus called Pythium Blight may take hold, because this fungus love to grow in high humid conditions, especially at night. If uncontrolled, this disease can cause large areas of turf to wilt, turn brown and die. Pythium blight can be readily seen in the early morning on the top of the lawn as a white cotton candy-like growth. Pythium blight can easily be controlled by watering in the day at the earliest possible time. Other preventative measures include removing thatch periodically, avoiding overly thick growth by moderating use of fertilizers and improving soil drainage through aeration.

Fire Blight

Fire Blight, yet another culprit that likes to grow during summer months. This fungus attacks Pear, crabapple and Apple trees. Fire Blight can be seen as a blossom blight a week or two after the blooming, which turns black on pear and brown on apple trees, causing the whole blossom cluster to wilt and die. Antibiotic sprays are quite successful in countering the blossom blight phase of Fire Blight.

Fire Blight can also be controlled by overwinter pruning of affected branches from the main plant. Cuts should be made at least four inches below the affected areas, which can be detected by dead bark. Don't forget the Fire Blight is contagious, so any prunings should be burnt, and pruning shears should be washed or dipped in alcohol.

About the author: Carlo Morelli writes for www.OnlineTips.org, where you can find tips on <a href=""http://onlinetips.org/installing-fiberglass-insulation"">ins talling fiberglass insulation</a>, <a href=""http://onlinetips.org/replace-door"">how to replace an entry door</a> and many other home and garden projects.