King Gardener: July 2008

Thursday, July 31, 2008

Pre-Spring Garden Planning

Author: Tammy Clayton

The end of Februrary already? My how time does fly! The sun has already become more readily available than in the past few months. Perhaps more cold and clear, but those candle-hours are important to the sleeping natural world; it is their built in clock. You cannot lie to a plant, it knows what time it is. Far more intelligent than one gives them credit for.

As you plan what to add to your garden this winter, I am sure you are paying attention to the light and water requirements all good perennial vendors attatch to each entry in their catalog. This is very important to your success with each plant. But it is possible to mix more drought loving plants with those that require more moisture in the same planting with good results. The secret lies in the substructure of each given plant's area in the bed.

Drought lovers do like some water, they will reward you with a much more beauty with some weekly water...in a drought bed. But what if you want to put say - lavender and phlox in with lobelia and ligularia? Those water requirements can really hamper one's creativity! So some knowledge of drainage engineering will give you the ability to try mixing them in the same planting area. Lavender and Phlox like drier conditions. Not that the Phlox will die in a spot where daily overhead watering is recieved. It will survive and grow huge, and flower excessively, but be stricken with fungus that makes the lower leaves yellow, icky looking and then become half defoliated. Ground watering is it's preferred daily moisturizing treatement. One can place it in a corner the sprinkler doesn't hit and water that section by hand once or twice a week and it will reward you very nicely indeed. Since Phlox is rather tall, this avenue of placing it in the back corner works out well. It likes the moisture but not on its leaves. Roses fare better this way as well, especialy since one cannot control what the heavens will pour down. Less black spot and such other marring problems will occur, if ground water is used vs. overhead.

Lavender on the other hand loves it hot and dry. It doesn't mind what heaven pours down IF there is a good drainage structure where the roots are. Too much water retention and it will slowly die. To conteract good soil water retention where one would like to plant the ever so beloved lavender row, a blind drain is required. It is called ""blind"" because on the surface you do not know that it is different from the rest of the area. In a planting area that is scratched once or twice a month some of the substructure will mix into the top surface and change the color of the topping soil. But once the bed fills no one will see this. (Surface scratching, by the way will put much needed air tunnels to roots, create more water availability to roots, and lessen the amount of weeding one must do, if it is done twice a month.)

The smaller the particle size of soil, the moisture it will retain. Clay having the most minute pieces and sand having the largest. Each person's garden area will have a totally different soil structure. If you are in hard clay, I would advise that either you excavate 6"" of clay and fill with 7 inches of peat/topsoil 50-50 fill OR raise the bed at least 6 inches above the harsh environment of the clay. Raising it is much less labor than excavating! Not too many things will do nicely in clay. The only way around it is correction. Once you have nice workable soil, with good moisture retention, yet good drainage - you can go about planning what goes where and how to amend each area for certain plants.

To get good drainage, you need to go down at least 4-6 inches, depending on the plants requirements. SHARP drainage is engineered with pea gravel in a 2"" layer, followed by 2"" of coarse sand, topped off with 2"" of your rich garden soil. In times of extreme moisture the worst of it will lay in the gravel bed. The gravel there also holds more heat than the moisture retaining soil, therefore using the warmth to do away with excess water faster. Variegated irises planted with a bed of road gravel 4"" beneath the surface will grow three times more lushly than those in average garden soil - they love that heat! Heat and drought loving plants are much happier in that environment when regular water is recieved. It is the retention that causes decline and not what comes from above. More moderate drainage would be created using 3"" of sand and 3"" of soil on top. Since each plant has different needs, your engineering of drainage will require a bit of working on. But it opens doors to what you can put in a planting as happy bedfellows that no drainage field would never allow you to attempt.

Plants such as Ligularia need loads of moisture. To truly enjoy these types of plants you must keep the soil moist at all times. So to plant these in a happy spot, average garden soil (50/50 peat-topsoil mix) must have good composted humus worked in and layed on top as a mulch. This holds water and coolness where it is needed for the roots to stay wet enough. Another neat trick I have seen that might aid in keeping these hungry types lush would be a water reservoir or two at their bases. Using an inverted 20 oz. pop bottle with the cap on and bottom cut off. Then 3/4 of the way up the bottle poke a small hole every inch. The water in the reservoir only leaks out when the water in the soil is depleated. So it slowly oozes moisture where it is needed. Refilling it would depend on the heat index and the amount of rainfall or irrigation in a given spot. To keep the soil from filling the bottle, a peice of landscape fabric, a hunk of old polyester fabric, or even the foot of an old nylon stocking, rubber banded in place allows moisture in while keeping most of the dirt from washing into your reservoir.

If tulip bulbs are rotting in an area due to heavy spring and fall moisture a more aggressive drain system is needed that will carry the water down and out more quickly. Water runs down hill, so an incline to your drain bed is needed. The more water, the more layers of decreasing size fill is needed and the deeper one must go to drain the area. BEWARE! Sometimes you can over do drainge and even daily watering will not keep things moist enough! If that problem occurs, excavate and change your ""recipe"" to lessen the sharpness of draining. As with all things, experience is good guidance as to what is enough and what is too much. Heavy water problems can be solved with this system. The bigger the area, the bigger your drain field. Using successive layers of 1-2"" roofing stone, pea gravel, coarse sand and topsoil or garden soil. Some drains go down a whole foot or more. The layered field can also be used with slotted tile pipe in a sock, attatched to solid pipe in some severe situations. A one to two inch decline over many feet can take a ""pond"" in your lawn or garden out to the woods or curb; to an area that it is no longer a detriment to whatever you are trying to grow in that spot. This same system was used repeatedly over the coarse of decades by my father who specialized in ""corrective drainage"" while in the landscape contracting field in. We employed it in many planting areas of customers yards with much greater success of what we could grow in any given customer's yard. (It was also used to correct basement flooding.) This will widen the choices of what you can grow together under ""normal"" garden conditions quite a bit, no matter what your limitations are at the moment.

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Read more great Gardening articles at: http://www.LostInTheFlowers.com

About the author: Raised by a highly respected & successful landscape contractor in the metro Detroit area, Clayton wanted a career in anything but landscaping! Now an award-winning landscape designer, Clayton runs <a href=""http://flowervillefarms.com"">Flowerville Farms</a>, a mail-order nursery in Michigan. Read more at <a href=""http://lostintheflowers.com"">LostInTheFlowers.com</a>.

Wednesday, July 30, 2008

Concerning Mulch - PART TWO

Author: Tammy Clayton

The use of shredded wood mulch exists for reasons unknown to many of us. It is true and a good point that the mulch does in fact control erosion in a new planting prior to the roots taking hold of the soil. The wood mulch does retain more moisture and insulate the roots from extreme temperatures. Therefore the addition of a mulch is in deed beneficial for a newly installed shrub and tree landscape. The truth is folks have been successfully growing landscapes and gardens for centuries prior to this modern innovation commonly known as shredded mulch. So the mulch is put down initially to aid the plants in adjusting to their new home with less setbacks and repercussions. But the renewal of mulch is where the problems seem to begin.

Firstly there should never be more than 3 inches of shredded wood mulch applied after the installation of new plants. Some seem to think that more is better, this is not true of mulch. Exceeding 4 inches holds too much moisture and can cause plants to decline from rot and even die because the soil cannot breathe or soak up warmth from the sun to rid itself of excess moisture that may be present at times. Incidentally, the presence of mushrooms in a lawn or planting bed is totally due to decomposing wood matter. Whether mulch mixed with soil or an old tree stump's roots that reside beneath the current lawn. Rotting wood and moisture have always caused mushrooms to grow. It is best if one is to cultivate mushrooms to plan ahead and cultivate those that are edible and cut down on the grocery bill rather than those that just make a mess in the landscape

What happens to all those additional layers of mulch you add to the beds because you like the "fresh" look it gives you yard? Perhaps first it would be best to ask yourself, what happened to the FIRST layer of mulch. The same thing that happens on the floor of the forest. Over time, every leaf, twig and fallen limb decomposes to replenish the soil available on the forest floor. The very same thing is happening in your planting beds...the mulch becomes soil. When the pretty mulch has disappeared a nice young man in a uniform appears after a phone call and puts a nice thick new layer where you direct him to do so. The lumber company who made money on a waste product is very happy. The mulch company is happy because you paid you bill. The nice young man in the uniform is happy because he got paid. You are happy with the fresh new appearance of your yard. The one soul who is not questioned about this practice, is the one that is effects the most...the plants! Over time, this freshening of the mulch can cause unexplainable health problems.

On the side of a beer bottled we have a warning from the Surgeon General warning us not to operate automotive vehicles or heavy equipment and goes on to say that alcohol could cause health problems. Have you ever seen such a warning on a bag of mulch or the invoice you pay that nice young man from? While there is such a thing as natural death among plants, death without explanation is easily blamed as the trees cannot say:

""Hey! I am dying because I cannot breathe anymore because you have put way too much mulch around my trunk!""

Nope, no tree can scream HELP! They can't tell you I need water, my toes hurt, its hot out here; they are helpless unless we know instinctively the problem. They can only get your attention if you WANT to hear what they have to say. Selective listening has serves no purpose when one deals with plants.

Where was I? Oh yes, this yearly freshening of the mulch in the beds...if you were a tree, you would see instantly why this is not a good thing. Trees have a natural breathing ring (as well as many types of shrubs and other woody plants) that develops right at the point of their trunk where their ""stem"" and the soil meet originally upon their sprouting.

When you pull a weed, properly extracting it from the soil, it is going to deposit dirt on top of the mulch. The more soil that is mixed with the wood mulch, the faster it will decompose and return to its' previous state as soil. Remember what comes from the soil returns to the soil; it is a natural revolution no one can prevent.

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For more great Gardening articles, visit: http://www.LostInTheFlowers.com

Tuesday, July 29, 2008

What is Compost Tea?

Author: james ellison

Article: What is Compost Tea?

Organic gardeners all know compost is fantastic stuff. But now, there's something even better and that's compost tea. If you start with a good compost you'll have a versatile elixir for all your garden needs. Compost tea helps prevent foliage diseases and at the same time increase the nutrients to the plant and shutdown the toxins hurting the plants. It will improve the taste/flavor of your vegetables. So why not give this tea a try either by buying it or brewing it yourself. You won't believe the results!

Four ways that good bacteria work:

<li>Help compete for the nutrients

<li>Dine on the bad varmits

<li>Help produce antibiotics to use against the varmits.

<li>They shove the bad varmits out.

Compost tea that is correctly brewed has a wealth of microorganisms that will benefit your plants' growth and health as well as the soil that they live in. Compost tea can be considered yogurt for the soil. The microorganisms living there are both good and bad. What the tea does is make sure the good guys win by introducing helpful bacteria, fungi, protozoa and beneficial nematodes.

Harmful bacteria lives best in soil that does not have good air circulation. Good bacteria lives best and will thrive in soil that is well ventilated with oxygen. This is where a good compost tea, made the right way, comes in. When you have well oxygenated compost you automatically get rid of 3/4 of the bad varmits. Also by using harmful insecticides or chemical fertilizers we reduce the number of beneficial microorganisms in the soil.

Plants produce their own energy and food and half of that goes to the roots and some of that goes into the surrounding soil and guess who gets that? Correct, the good guys, and then it turns into a beneficial cycle.

The following is taken from the internet and shows compost tea is becoming a force in gardening.

National Organic Standards Board Compost Tea Task Force Report April 6, 2004 Introduction In 2003, the National Organic Standards Board convened a Compost Tea Task Force to review the relevant scientific data and report their recommendations on 'What constitutes a reasonable use of compost tea?' The Task Force was composed of 13 individuals with knowledge and expertise in organic farming practices, organic certification, EPA pathogen regulations, compost, compost tea production and analysis, plant pathology, food safety and environmental microbiology.

Throughout their discussions, members consistently acknowledged the growing interest among certified organic and conventional growers to use compost teas, and the need to develop effective biologically-based tools to manage plant fertility, pests, and diseases.

A primary reason for producing compost tea is to transfer microbial biomass, fine particulate organic matter, and soluble chemical components of compost into an aqueous phase that can be applied to plant surfaces and soils in ways not possible or economically feasible with solid compost.

This article is provided courtesy of http://www.basic-info-4-organic-fertilizers.com You may freely reprint this article on your website or in your newsletter provided this courtesy notice and the author name and URL remain intact.

About the author: an enthusiastic gardening for over 45 years. converted to organic gardening methods 10 years ago

Monday, July 28, 2008

Hummingbirds - Jewels of the Air

Author: Tammy Clayton

Article: "Of all animated beings, the hummingbird is the most elegant in form, the most brilliant in color. The precious stones and metals to which our art lends polish are not compared to this gem of Nature, whose masterpiece the little bird represents. She has loaded it with all the gifts of which she has given other birds only a share... The emerald, the ruby, the topaz all glitter in its plumage, which is never sullied by the dust of the ground."

- Comte de Buffon (18th century French naturalist)

Hummingbirds are the neatest addition to a garden. Many people try to attract them with red-colored sugar water. Inevitably though trying this method to attract them will allow one highly territorial male to declare that it is HIS FEEDER, unless as a friend of mine did, you provide a whole bunch of spaced out feeders.

Myself, not ever having observed them in this common fashion just accidentally discovered them in my garden. There are all sorts of lists available that attract them. I never really paid any attention to any of this hummingbird attracting. I just planted things solely for the color or time of year they bloom or because I liked the look of the plant.

One hot afternoon following a thunderstorm, while sitting on the porch enjoying the now cooler air, I spied the first hummingbird in my garden. He was enjoying a veritable feast of the Gardenview Scarlet Beebalm right in front of my chair. I had left the front door wide open as no bugs were yet flying to let the fresh breeze waft into the house. Suddenly he was hovering on the porch in front of the door. As I watched, he darted right into the front hall. Just as I was poised to rise and go shoo him out, he hummed right back across the porch and dove into the red hanging geraniums.

A few days later, I found his wife in the same clump of Beebalm. He flew in and attacked her right inside the plant. Beating her with his wings and a fair amount of squeaking and commotion came from inside the highly disturbed plant. After several minutes of the wildly waving bloom war, she surrendered and left the plant. He pursued her right around the corner of the porch, across the entire back yard and out into the woods.

Pretty selfish of him, I thought, what an arrogant old thing. Then he swooped back into view and became a tiny bump as he took up surveillance of his flowers on a high branch of the big Maple on the driveway. Back she came again and went into the Beebalm.

So I settled back in my chair to watch the domestic dispute from a most excellent ringside position. Sure enough, what we had here was a quarrel equal to a married couple over which wallpaper should be hung in the powder room. For no sooner had she settled into drinking the spicy nectar than he came charging right back and beat her up again. That was the last time I found her anywhere near the plant in question, evidently two beatings were enough to change her tune of defiance. He wasn't really all that bad though for a bird guy I suppose, as he did let her have all the Phlox and Delphinium she wanted.

Now years later I have split off several other clumps and planted them along the outside of the fence, she is allowed to drink from those Beebalms. She never ventures near HIS CLUMP. The second summer after they came to dwell here, I was honored with the presence of their offspring. In awe I watched her teach the tiny gold baby about the size of bumblebee to drink the nectar from the Phlox. Pushing its head into the bloom with that needle sharp beak of hers until the babe got the idea of how to feed itself. Standing there witnessing her repeatedly jabbing the tiny head with that sharp needle beak, I had to rub my own head imagining how that must feel. Is it any wonder that the little thing quickly caught on and was drinking without assistance?

The same pair returns every summer to dwell in the flowers and raise their young. I am treated with watching them perched on the patio trellis in early the evening shadows, drawn there for the Delphinium that waves beside it.

It is common knowledge that the Ruby-throated Hummingbird is attracted to the color red. Truth be known, they enjoy any scented flower from my observations of their behavior. Plants that they feed on here include Sweet Alyssum, all colors of Tall Phlox and Beebalm (monarda), perennial and annual Salvias, scented Roses, geraniums no matter what color they are and Delphiniums. I am sure that a lengthier list of plants one can add to the garden to keep the hummingbirds well fed and returning year after year.

Through the gift of a book about Hummingbirds, I discovered that though there 150 different types of these tiny jewels only one, the Ruby-throated Hummingbird, flies as far north as the eastern United States. The smallest Hummingbird is only two inches long, and the largest measures eight and a half inches in length. No matter their size, as a species they wears feathers the color of every brilliant jewel tone known to man.

The reason that their feathers are so brilliant is because they are not colored with pigment as any other bird's plumage. For some reason this particular breed's feathers are black and filled with a substance known as "melanin". The feathers are only colored as the white light reflects off them. This is the reason for the colors to change when the sunlight shines from a different direction.

If a Hummingbird feather is crushed, it turns black and is never irridescent again. Even after death their feathers retain their ability to flash color in the sunlight forever unless mangled or smashed. Other breeds of bird feathers lose their color slowly after death as the pigments face over time. Many stuffed examples of birds in museums must have their feathers painted after a while to show visitors what they look like. Hummingbirds require no such treatment so long as the feathers are not damaged. The brilliancy of their feathers lasts forever, much like the precious gems whose colors they contain, making them a very special bird indeed.

About the author: Raised by a highly respected & successful landscape contractor in the metro Detroit area, Clayton wanted a career in anything but landscaping! Now an award-winning landscape designer, Clayton runs <a href=""http://flowervillefarms.com"">Flowerville Farms</a>, a mail-order nursery in Michigan. Read more of her articles at <a href=""http://lostintheflowers.com"">LostInTheFlowers.com</a>.

Sunday, July 27, 2008

Common plant and flower diseases

Author: Tony Robinson

Article: Everyone who gardens will sooner or later have to deal with common diseases of plants and flowers. While some gardeners are luckier than others in this regard, everyone, from the smallest casual gardener to the largest commercial growing operation, has had to grapple with this serious issue.

Both flowering and non-flowering plants are prone to a number of pathogens, including bacteria, fungi and viruses. Fungi are able to survive in the soil, independent of the plants, while both bacteria and viruses require a plant host for their survival.

Fungi Fungi are among the most primitive of all organisms, and they are able to reproduce through the use of spores. These spores can be extremely difficult to kill, and the spores are designed to spread rapidly. Fungi produce spores in large numbers, and some of the spores are able to enter plants through their roots, while other spores attach themselves to the leaves of the plant. A single infected plant can release up to 100 million spores, so it is important to completely eradicate any fungal infection.

Bacteria Unlike fungi, which can lie dormant for years or even decades in the soil, bacteria need both warmth and water to multiply and grow. Therefore, the majority of bacterial diseases are more of a problem in climates that are both warm and wet. Bacterial infections are easily spread through rain, splashing water, and even unknowingly by gardeners as they move between their plants. Most bacteria enter plants through a natural opening like a flower, or through a wound or cut in a stem or leaf.

Viruses Viruses are even smaller life forms than bacteria, and they are able to reproduce only from within the cells of the plant or animal they infect. Certain viruses can be transmitted from plant to plant by insects such as aphids, thrips and leafhoppers, while still others can be carried by infected seeds or pollen spores. Like bacteria, viruses often enter plants through cuts or wounds in the stems, leaves or other parts of the plant.

As with all other disease treatment, the first step to effectively treating a viral, bacterial or fungal infection in the garden is to diagnose it properly. Every gardener should keep a book or guide on hand which shows the effects of common plant diseases. This guide will prove invaluable when trying to figure out what is bothering your plants. If you are still stumped for a diagnosis, be sure to seek the assistance of the staff at your local garden center, or the help of a more experienced gardener.

When treating bacterial, fungal and viral infections, the best approach is to try the most natural, least invasive methods first, and to move on only if those natural cures do not produce results. It is always a good idea to keep the use of harsh chemical pesticides and fungicides to a minimum, both for the health of your garden and the health of the wider environment.

About the author: Tony Robinson is an international author and webmaster. In his busy life he finds time to ""Smell the Roses"". For geat tips, techniques and articles visit http://www.rose-bloom.com

Saturday, July 26, 2008

Taking Care of Your Bonsai

Author: Paul

Article: Bonsai is the art of growing trees that are of tiny-stature, within the household premises. The word Bonsai is basically a Chinese term, which denotes a shrub or a tree planted in a shallow tray. It plays an important role by adding value to the living room. The following are the valuable tips that can preserve the plant for a longer duration.

a) Adequate water should be poured on time and the leaves that have turned yellowish should be plucked without crushing the buds. b) Retain the moisture content in the soil by consistently immersing the pot into the water. Let the excess water get drained away later on. c) Choose a right location so that the plant is not deprived of the sunrays. Also, ensure that it is not exposed to the scorching heat of the sun. d) Add the necessary fertilizers like phostrogen tomato after watering them. e) Maintain the original shape by tapering away the part that grows so that it looks orderly f) Trim away a small portion from the root and fix the plant in a new pot. Thus, the plant will be healthier for a longer span. g) When you sense a glossy touch at your fingertips, it should be understood that the leaves are victims of an infestation. So apply insecticides or a diluted solution for a maximum of three times.

Although this craft leads to curbing of nature, it is not a form of wastage. It is a way of bringing beauty indoors.

About the author: Paul has been providing answers to lots of queries through his website on a wide variety of subjects ranging from satellite phones to acne. To learn more visit <a href=""http://www.askaquery.com/Answers/qn1532.html""> http://www.askaquery.com/Answers/qn1532.html </a>

You are welcome to republish the above article only if you add our hyperlinked URL which is mentioned above.

Friday, July 25, 2008

How To Prevent Damping Off

Author: Marilyn Pokorney

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Words: 446 Copyright: 2005 Marilyn Pokorney

Please leave the resource box intact with an active link, and send a courtesy copy of the publication in which the article appears to: marilynp@nctc.net ------------------------------------------------------------ ------------

Damping off is the single term used to describe underground, soil line, or crown rots of seedlings due to unknown causes. The term actually covers several soil borne diseases of plants and seed borne fungi. The fungi which cause root rot are species of Phyium, Phytophthora, Rhizoctonia and Fusarium.

There are two types of damping off: pre-emergence and post- emergence. In pre-emergence damping-off, seeds may rot and seedlings may decay before they emerge. In post-emergence damping off the seedlings emerge then may pale, curl, wilt, and collapse from a rot at the soil line and below. The base of the stem is generally water-soaked at first then turns gray to brown or black then rots.

Vegetable seedlings often do not grow well under humid conditions, particularly if the soil is cold and wet. Damping off fungi flourish in moist, unhygienic conditions. The disease often starts at one end of a seed tray, and quickly spreads to the other end. A fluffy fungal growth may also appear on the soil surface as well as on the dead seedlings.

When preparing to plant be sure that flats, tools, plant containers, and benches are clean. Damping off pathogens can live in these containers. The easiest way to disinfect them is to dip them in a bleach solution for 10 seconds. Use 1 part bleach to 4 parts water. Or use 70 percent rubbing alcohol.

Plant in a light, well drained fertile seedbed. Preferably use sterile soils that have been pasteurized with heat before planting. Maintain a soil pH at the low end of the average scale. A soil of 6.4 pH is less susceptible to root rot than a pH of 7.5. As plants are watered the pH gradually increases. Test often and continue to maintain a lower pH while the plants are still germinating. If necessary use one tablespoon of vinegar to 1 gallon of water to lower a rising pH level.

Plant seeds no deeper than 4 times their own thickness. Keep the seedbed soil on the dry side after planting and allow plenty of bright light but not direct sunlight.

Use plant containers with drainage holes, water from the bottom only, and avoid excess watering. Do not allow pots to stand in water as excess water cannot drain and the roots will be starved for oxygen which will stop all growth of seedlings. Never water late in the day.

Avoid overcrowding and overfeeding of plants. Do not overfertilize, especially with nitrogen.

For additional organic tips from the experts on damping off:

http://www.apluswriting.net/dampingoff/dampingoff.htm

About the author: Author: Marilyn Pokorney Freelance writer of science, nature, animals and the environment. Also loves crafts, gardening, and reading. Website: http://www.apluswriting.net

Thursday, July 24, 2008

How to Grow Ginger

Author: Linda Paquette

Article: Asian and Mid-Eastern dishes often have a subtle and distinctive flavor that comes from spicing the dish at the end of cooking with fresh ginger root. As these dishes grow in popularity, many grocery produce departments stock this pleasingly pungent root for use in homemade dishes. Your favorite grocer's produce department is also the best place to find ginger root for growing.

What we call fresh ginger root is actually the rhizome of the ginger (Zingiber officinale) plant. Choose a smooth, shiny root that has some buds beginning. These will look similar to the eyes of a potato.

•A fun way to start a ginger plant is to suspend a two-inch piece of the rhizome over a glass of water. Do this by poking a toothpick on either side of the root. Fill the glass, submerging about one-third of the ginger. When roots grow to about an inch long, plant the rhizome just below the surface of a rich, moist potting mixture in a pot that has good drainage.

•Plant ginger in a pot for growing indoors or out! Using a rich potting mixture, choose a pot at least four times the size of your ginger rhizome or plant it in the large pot that will be its permanent home on your patio, deck, or other outdoor garden area. Fill the pot three-quarters full of potting mixture; lay your rhizome flat on top and cover it with about an inch of soil. Keep the pot in a sunny location until sprouts appear, then move it to an area with good indirect light. Ginger won't tolerate bright, direct light.

•Start a small plant for transplanting into your garden. Plant your ginger root directly into a pot filled with rich potting mixture. Cover the pot with a plastic bag and place it on a sunny windowsill. When the first shoots appear, remove the plastic bag. If all danger of frost is past, move your young ginger plant directly into your garden. Alternatively put the pot in a location where it will get indirect sunlight. Water it regularly, but be sure not to let the soil become saturated.

Your ginger plant will grow two to four feet tall. Slender stems and narrow, glossy leaves may reach up to a foot long and resemble the foliage of a lily. Occasionally, your ginger may produce a yellow green flower, but flowers are both rare and unnecessary for the health of the plant.

Ginger is not frost hardy so in temperate areas bring plants indoors for the winter and ignore it! Foliage will yellow and die back, but the plant will return to growth in the spring.

Harvest ginger after the rhizome has grown three to four months. Since the best time to plant ginger is in the spring, this usually means a fall harvest. Harvested ginger root is usually sun-dried for longer preservation. It can either be stored in a dry cupboard or refrigerated.

About the author: Linda is the main editor of <a href=""http://www.gardening-guides.com""> Gardening Guides</a> and the <a href=""http://www.lawnmower-guide.com"">Lawn mower and care guide</a>

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

All About Miniature Roses

Author: Ken Austin

Article: Miniature roses are exactly what they sound like. They have all of the fragrance and beauty of a regular rose, but they have smaller blooms. These particular roses are great for indoor planting.

Miniature roses are one of many types of roses available widely. These roses, as their name implies, are smaller versions of the more common roses. They offer the same beauty and fragrances as their larger cousins. The consumer can find a large selection in a variety of colors and shape available to them. Caring for these miniature roses is no more difficult then caring for the larger variety. But, taking the time to learn about the miniature rose is key in maintaining them over a long period of time

Miniature roses come in many colors and varieties. There truly is something to please everyone. These roses are great additions to a flower bed, window box or even inside the home or office as a potted variety. With so many choices available, the demand for these roses has risen. Once hard to find, they are now available in most garden centers and even in discount department stores as well. Now, this is not to say that the consumer can't find better, more hardy options other places.

If a consumer is dead set on a color, shape, or texture in their miniature rose, they should use the internet to help them find the right miniature rose for them. This is as simple as going a search in a search engine and finding wholesale sellers. There is a constant demand for miniature roses and in that they are always developing more varieties to please the public. So, many of these wholesalers can offer more then the local garden center can.

Anyone in the market for miniature roses needs to know their facts. The miniature rose is no different from other plants in that it needs certain elements to help maintain it. The soil type, sun exposure, and nutrients it needs all depend on the variety. Asking the retailer for this information is a must. Grab a book on caring for miniature roses if needed to give the most information possible. Doing all these things will lead to owning a beautiful miniature rose or several. It will also be the foundation of a love of miniature roses as well.

About the author: Ken Austin <A href=""http://www.1stinroses.com"" target=_blank>Roses and Rose Gardening</A> <A href=""http://www.1stdiscountshopping.com"" target=_blank> Online Discount Shopping Guide </A>

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Butterfly Gardening

Author: Jane Lake

Butterfly gardening is not only a joy, it is one way that you can help restore declining butterfly populations. Simply adding a few new plants to your backyard may attract dozens of different butterflies, according to landscape designers at the University of Guelph.

Butterflies, like honeybees, are excellent pollinators and will help increase your flower, fruit and vegetable production if you provide them with a variety of flowers and shrubs. They are also beautiful to watch, and are sometimes called ""flowers on the wing.""

- Begin by seeding part of your yard with a wildflower or butterfly seed mix, available through seed catalogues and garden centers. Wildflowers are a good food source for butterflies and their caterpillars.

- Choose simple flowers over double hybrids. They offer an easy-to-reach nectar source.

- Provide a broad range of flower colors. Some butterflies like oranges, reds and yellows while others are drawn toward white, purple or blue flowers.

- Arrange wildflowers and cultivated plants in clumps to make it easier for butterflies to identify them as a source of nectar.

- If caterpillars are destroying favorite plants, transfer them by hand to another food source. Avoid the use of pesticides, which can kill butterflies and other beneficial insects.

- Some common caterpillar food sources are asters, borage, chickweed, clover, crabgrass, hollyhocks, lupines, mallows, marigold, milkweed or butterfly weed, nasturtium, parsley, pearly everlasting, ragweed, spicebush, thistle, violets and wisteria. Caterpillars also thrive on trees such as ash, birch, black locust, elm and oak.

- Annual nectar plants include ageratum, alyssum, candy tuft, dill, cosmos, pinks, pin cushion flower, verbena and zinnia.

- Common perennial nectar plants include chives, onions, pearly everlasting, chamomile, butterfly weed, milkweeds, daisies, thistles, purple coneflower, sea holly, blanket flower, lavender, marjoram, mints, moss phlox, sage, stonecrops, goldenrod, dandelion and valerian.

Remember that butterflies are cold-blooded insects that bask in the sun to warm their wings for flight and to orient themselves. They also need shelter from the wind, a source of water, and partly shady areas provided by trees and shrubs.

About the author: Jane Lake's work has appeared in Canadian Living, You and Modern Woman magazines. To make your own butterfly feeders, read her article, <a href="" http://www.allfreecrafts.com/gardening/butterfly-food.shtml"">Butt erfly Food</a> or visit her <a href=""http://www.allfreecrafts.com/nature/index.shtml"">Nature Crafts</a> section for more nature articles, including how to make nectar for hummingbirds, plus more on butterfly gardens.

Monday, July 21, 2008

Care of Cattleya

Author: Robert Roy

Article: Cattleya Care a bit more in-depth This month we are going to go into some detail about the care of cattleya orchids. These orchids are probably the easiest to care for and like all plants need water, light and fertilizer. Playing some nice music or talking to them doesn't hurt either. Most of the wild cattleyas grow in rain forests of South America, namely in Argentina, Bolivia, Paraguay and Mexico. They flourish in the Andes from altitudes near sea level to high altitudes of 9 - 10,000 feet. These orchids are truly epiphytes or air plants. So, they are used to being partly covered by the canopy of the rain forest and get considerable humidity and bright light to grow. Being in the forest as noted above they are used to diffuse light all be it bright light. They generally do not have direct mid day sunlight. The bright light helps them to develop hard pseudopods. The pseudopods are the orchids main way to hold water which is so important for their growth and life. It is from the pseudopods that the orchid flowers come from. Being in the forest and at various altitudes there are a wide range of temperatures that these plants are used to. In the winter and higher altitudes these plants become accustom to temps which can go as low as 50 - 55 degrees in the winter and as high as 80-90 degrees in the summer. Humidity is the friend to cattleyas. We can understand this from being in rain forests. Most cattleyas do well with being set on humidity trays. These are metal or plastic trays that are filled with pepples and then half full with water. The plant roots cannot sit in water for a long period of time or else they will get root rot. Allow for good air circulation but not sitting in direct aim of an air vent. Generally, watering twice a week does well during their growth and flowering period and once a week during their period of rest. Cattleyas are orchids that can and should get dry between watering. This aids in the growth of healthy pseudopods. Be sure that the potting medium allow the water to drain out fairly rapidly. To check to see if a plant needs water stick your finger about 1 inch into the potting material and see if it comes out dry or damp. If dry it needs watering. If damp it may be able to go another day or two without water. When watering allow the water to flow into the plant and then drain right out into the sink and not into the humidity tray. You can let the water water flow onto the plant for about 20-30 seconds and the pseudopods will get enough water for storage. If plants are blossom in the winter or spring this means that these orchid plants deserve a rest period of about 6 to 8 weeks. During this time water them about once a week and keep the lighting the same. If the plants blossom in the summer time no rest period is needed. Fertilizing should take place about every other week with a balanced formula like 20-20-20. If the plant is flowering you can fertilize with a blossoming mixture with a higher nitrogen factor, e.g. 30-10-10. With these rather easy steps you will get many years of joy from your cattleya orchid plants.

This article may be used by any website. I do insist that you recognize my website as the contributor. Thank you. http://www.orchids-plus-more.com/orchid-contact.html

About the author: This site http://www.orchids-plus-more.com is devoted to these wonderful orchid plants. Did you know they are the second in popularity only to the poinsettia plants? You will find a good deal of information on how easy orchid care really is. They are wonderful to have around your home or for that special gift. Orchid flowers are beautiful and can last for years. Your plant will be appreciated for years and years.

Sunday, July 20, 2008

Dendrobium Orchid Care

Author: Robert Roy

Article: Dendrobium Care from: http://www.orchids-plus-more.com This month I am focusing our attention to the care of Dendrobiums. These are one of the most popular of retail orchid plants. They are a true epiphyte or air plant. There pseudopods can gather and hold water very efficiently. Generally there will be a hybrid phalaenopsis and dendrobium, commonly known as Dtps. Potting This needs only to be done every two to three years and it should be with a porous, free draining media. This may be a combination of wood chips, small stone and and pieces of styrofoam peanuts. This will allow the draining of water and fertilizer. Dendrobiums seem to grow best when the pot is smaller than the size of the orchid plant. Lighting The dendrobium orchids require about 50% sun or bright light. They will do well in an east or west window as well as a shaded south window. They also do well under 4 - 40 watt fluorescent lights directly over the plant. Temperature These plants need a difference in temperature between the night and day. Preferably this difference should be about 10 - 15 degrees. The night temps they like is 60-65 with days between 80 - 90. Air circulation is needed and is especially when the temps are above 90 degrees. Water Like most orchids Dendrobiums need to be kept moist while actively growing. When it is mature, as are most of orchids-plus-more.com plants they should dry between watering. Dendrobiums thrive when the humidity is about 50 - 60%. Humidity trays are usually needed while the plant is in the home. Fertilizer Use a balance fertilizer like Jack's Classic 20-20-20. Use weakly, weekly. That is, use a solution which is between 1/4 to 1/2 the recommended dosage. For more information on the care of orchids see the American Orchid Society ***This article may used by any other website with the condition that our website; Orchids-plus-more.com is recognized as the contributing website.

Saturday, July 19, 2008

Black Walnut Trees Produce A Natural Insecticide

Author: Marilyn Pokorney

You may retrieve this article by:

Autoresponder: juglone@getresponse.com Website: http://www.apluswriting.net/articles/juglone.txt

Words: 246 Copyright: 2005 Marilyn Pokorney

The black walnut tree manufactures a substance that is a natural insecticide according to experts at the Texas State University in Austin.

American black walnut tress contain a tannic acid chemists call juglone. The reddish yellow substance leaches from leaves, and some believe exudes from roots, or transfers from branches and foliage to the roots. Tree physiologists agree that roots of other plants that come in contact with those black walnut tree roots die--even other black walnut seedlings.

Juglone is sometimes washed out of the still green walnuts during late summer or even autumn rains. The growth of plants 60 to 80 feet away are inhibited by the juglone. The substance affects plants of various families. Studies have found that tomatoes, alfalfa, potatoes, apples, blackberries, rhododendron, mountain laurel and pine trees are all affected.

According to a professor and extension forester at Iowa State University, juglone is known to repel various garden insects. Just by placing branches of the tree around the house and under furniture dog and cat owners are amazed to find that their pets have fewer fleas.

For more information on natural flea control:

http://www.apluswriting.net/onlynaturalpetstore/fleacontrol. htm

For more information on natural garden products:

http://www.apluswriting.net/garden/gardensalive.htm

About the author: Author: Marilyn Pokorney Freelance writer of science, nature, animals and the environment. Also loves crafts, gardening, and reading. Website: http://www.apluswriting.net

Friday, July 18, 2008

The True Beauty of Climbing Roses

Author: Ken Austin

Article: What is more beautiful than seeing a home or building with an arch of climbing roses in the landscaping? Climbing roses are one of many plants that branch out and intertwine themselves among arches, trellises, or even buildings and railings. They can add a great landscape element to any foundation.

Climbing roses are different from the regular roses that are planted as they are trained to grow upward like vines. Some of them are hybrid teas, wichuraine, and large flowered climbers. They are a beautiful addition to the look of one´s house

Would you like more information about climbing roses? It is easy to learn about this great beauty. First of all, there are many types of climbing roses. They range in color, texture, and look. They also range in hardiness as well. Of course, you need to know what you are looking of in your climbing rose. When choosing climbing roses, some things that you need to consider are size, shade tolerance, disease resistance and colour.

Most important is knowing your hardiness level. This tells you what will grow in your area. Also as important is to pick varieties that will grow in the element you are placing them. What type of soil will you use? Will the area have full sun, partial sun, or will it be in shade.

Before getting discouraged, though, realize that there are many varieties of climbing roses to choose from and more then likely, you will find something to meet your needs. To find variety, forget about choosing your local hardware store, discount department store, or even the local gardening outlet. While these places often have a good selection, they don't have the most.

Use the internet to find some great climbing roses of the most beautiful variety. Often you can have a catalog sent to you with many choices, or you can find and buy online. You will be able to find just what you are looking for, or maybe even something you never imagined.

Climbing roses can add a lot to any landscape. Take the time to choose climbing roses that fit your area and landscape design. Also, grab a book or do a little research online about the care the type of climbing rose you chose will need. Taking this time to do these things will give you the best climbing rose you can get.

About the author: Ken Austin <A href=""http://www.1stdiscountshopping.com"" target=_blank> Online Discount Shopping Guide </A> <A href=""http://www.1stinroses.com"" target=_blank>Roses and Rose Gardening</A>

Thursday, July 17, 2008

Geranium Plants

Author: Linda Paquette

Article: Geraniums Plants

The geranium that brightens your landscape with its brightly colored flowers may be one of two different species. If you successfully over-wintered your geranium, chances are it is an herbaceous perennial from the genus Geranium. However, most often the geraniums that delight us with their profuse blooms are from the genus Pelargonium.

The geranium, which originated in South Africa, made its entrance to the European continent in the 1600's and has been propagated and hybridized ever since. Today the geranium is still among the most popular of the flowering plants. The geranium is a very adaptable flower that is suitable for beds and borders as well as hanging baskets and containers inside or outdoors!

Because there are so many types of geranium, it's difficult to choose which is the most popular type to add to your landscape.

•The common or zonal geranium is typically sold as a bedding plant. They are a compact plant, some having very decorative, distinctly marked two and three colored leaves.

•Ivy leaved geraniums are perfect for window boxes and hanging baskets. Although flower petals are narrower and the blossoms less dense than other cultivars, the ivy leaved geranium is an attractive vining plant that can grow up to three feet long.

•Scented geraniums are used for making tea, potpourris and sachets. They are deceptively sweet and carry the fragrances of lemon, apple, rose, nutmeg, and peppermint. Although the flowers are small and some might say insignificant, the scented geranium is a wonderful way to add fragrance to your patio, porch… or kitchen!

•The mosquito geranium is also a scented geranium. Even if you haven't grown it, chances are you have smelled its insect repelling scent. The mosquito geranium was hybrid especially for production of oil of citronella and frequently is sold at nurseries as the mosquito plant.

Geranium flowers come in white and all shades of pink and red. Many hybrids have bi-colored flowers and some hybrids bear salmon colored flowers. Easy care, in addition to being a favorite addition to your garden, geraniums also make an inexpensive and lovely gift for Easter, Mother's Day and other special spring occasions.

About the author: Linda is author at <a href=""http://www.gardening-guides.com"">Gardening Guides</a>

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Welcome To Michigan

Author: Barbara Baker

Article: Welcome to Northern Michigan, the home of the beautiful Grand Traverse Bay. We have an abundance of natural beauty in our area. Traverse City is known for it's cherry and apple farming, locally produced vintage wines, clean white sandy beaches, and a culturally active community. The summer is the reason why I live here. The water is clean and pure, you can see sandy bottom as far as you can walk. To me the beach is my safe place in my heart and in my soul. When I need to escape the pressures of everyday life I go to the beach to listen to the waves gently caressing the waters edge. I love to see the diamonds on the water sparkling with glory as the starts to set for the evening. My herb garden is my safe place also. I can stroll though the garden path and fill my senses with the textures, and feel the harmony of herbs and flowers with mother earth. My garden is a working garden. I sell cut herbs and flowers for summer bouquets. I harvest the flowers to dry for my wreaths and arrangements. I am surrounded with a wealth of products in my garden. I make medicinal salves and oils from the calendula flower which is known for its anti-viral properties, and can soothe a burn within seconds. This year I am going to produce tinctures from comfrey and our natural wild herb mullein for their powerful medicinal properties. I sell essential oils and fragrance oils as well. With these oils I make hand dipped incense sticks and my potpourri. I have developed thirteen blends or my own. After a lot of researching I have developed a recipe using carrier oils such as sweet almond oil, safflower, apricot, etc. for my body oils. The herbal blend soaks into your skin leaving no residue. The garden brings many aspects of the earth together. The birds find food and ample hiding places to build their baby's nests. The butterflies are abundant, feeding on the nectar of the flowering plants. I am always grabbing my books to look up the name of a new winged visitor to the garden. I think my favorite part of the garden is the thyme bed. A lot of the thymes are ground covers, and in the spring they have the tiniest blossoms. Did you know about the lavender, lemon, caraway, minus, creeping, oregano, English, French, silver, common, lime, orange, orange spice, nutmeg, silver needle, and woolly thyme ? These are only a few varieties of this species. I harvest these for making herbal swags and to add them to sachets and potpourri. I am a member of the Michigan Herb Association, and the Great Lakes Herb Business Association. If you visit the web site of the Great Lakes Herb Business Association you will see a variety of businesses in our state that sells herbs and herbal products. The web site is very informative and a good resource to check out while your coming our way. Sweet Annie's Rose is the name of my little rustic shop and garden. You will find as many weeds as there are herbs at times, but no one seems to care. Drop by and stroll though the garden. You can nibble on some sweet cicely, or taste the lemon thyme. You can pull a few weeds, exchange a few seeds, or just wander alone through the herbs and let their magic find a place in your heart.

About the author: Barbara Baker is a webmaster, author, and Internet Marketer with an extreme passion for herbs

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

How to divide perennials

Author: Tony Robinson

Article: One of the things that makes perennials so attractive to home gardeners is the ability to divide and transplant the perennials. Gardeners can use cuttings made from their perennials in order to create new growth, share their plants with family members and friends, or even to sell excess stock to nurseries, garden centers and flower stores.

There are basically two reasons why gardeners choose to divide their perennials. The first reason is for the improvement of the health of the plants, and to encourage those plants to produce more flowers. In many cases, an older planting of perennials will become overgrown, and this can cause the bloom quantity of those perennials to drop considerably. The other reason gardeners divide perennials, of course, is to create new plantings. Perennials can be divided easily, and these new divisions can be used to create plantings in other parts of the garden, or even in another garden patch.

Even though many perennials can be divided easily, not all can. In generally, division is most feasible on those perennials that grow in clumps, and those that have an expanding root mass. Perennials that grow from single taproot, on the other hand usually cannot be divided. That is because any attempt to divide the taproot can cause the plant to die. Those perennials that grow from a taproot should be increased by using root cuttings or seeds instead of division.

The best time to divide those spring and early summer perennials that can be divided is generally in the fall of the year. Perennials that bloom in the fall or late summer should be divided in the spring instead.

To divide perennials, the ground around the plant should first be gently lessened with a spading fork. The clump should then be sliced with a garden trowel and then divided into four parts. Those four sections should then be broken by hand to create sections four inches by four inches. Those small sections should then immediately be transferred to a previously prepared plant bed.

It is important for the gardener to thoroughly wet the soil a day or two before the division is to take place. Watering thoroughly will make it easier to dig the clump. In addition, it is important to add compost or other organic material to the soil. The organic material should be added to both the original plant and the new divisions. Doing so will give the plant the nutrition it needs and help them to thrive better in their new location. The plants should also be watered thoroughly and fed with a good quality fertilizer once they have been planted.

About the author: Tony Robinson is an international author and webmaster. In his busy life he finds time to ""Smell the Roses"". For geat tips, techniques and articles visit http://www.rose-bloom.com

Monday, July 14, 2008

The Beautiful Rose of Sharon

Author: Ken Austin

Article: Perhaps you were browsing the pages of a catalog and found a beautiful picture of the Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus Sriacus)? Or maybe you were lucky enough to see a Rose of Sharon in person at a local garden center? Are you wondering whether these will make a beautiful addition to your home? Getting a little knowledge of these beautiful plants will allow you to make a decision.

Although once somewhat uncommon, the Rose of Sharon has become a widely loved plant. Not your typical rose bush, these are more like shrubs. Other names for Rose of Sharon include althea and shrub althea. Some can grow up to 10 feet tall, while most maintain a height of 5 feet. Sounds like a tree? It looks like a beautiful shrub with blooms of a variety of colors. The Rose of Sharon makes for a great fence as well. Places several side by side in a row, they create a natural fence that will enliven any landscape.

The Rose of Sharon is a hardy plant. Many varieties can withstand sub zero temperatures and can grow in moderate soil to poor soil. The blooms, available in several colors, bloom in mid summer and they continue to do so throughout the fall months. This creates a beautiful color display for many months of the year. They tend to need little care besides the normal water, sun, and decent soil. You may want to add nutrients to the soil yearly as well.

Regardless of the work involved, trimming a few branches will be nothing compared to the beauty the Rose of Sharon will give your landscape. Take the time, and stop to smell the Rose of Sharon and you will be taken away.

Sunday, July 13, 2008

Fake Grass

Author: Brad Slade

Article: The history of artificial or fake grass is to say the least an interesting one and arose out of the social desire to in-effect ward off what could be seen, as far back as the 1950s, as an increasingly unhealthy tendency by youngsters not to exercise.

History has it that birth of synthetic grass began through attempts by scientists trying to develop a type of grass that would not only allow children and adolescents to play on regardless of the weather condition but encouraged them to do so, in other words, a surface that they enjoyed using or a user friendly surface. Hence the advent of fake or artificial grass.

The result was one of the early prototypes of what we now know to be fake or artificial grass. The earlier types were not only hard under foot and made for impracticality especially where sports and children were concerned given the tendencies to fall but were very unpopular. Conversely, however, in terms of workability and endurance this surface proved itself worthy, with the originally playing field where the fake grass surface was installed lasting twenty years of solid wear.

Claims that in terms of practicalities due to poor drainage and its tendency to rot fake grass has limited applicability are unsubstantiated. Furthermore, highly contentious arguments revolving around the argument that artificial grass causes more on-field injuries when used in sports-grounds is again unfounded and may be derived from factions wanting to see this type of surfacing a thing of the past. The claim by the industry is that if laid correctly no problems should occur. In fact, if anything, this type of surface should encourage better drainage enabling competitive sports to continue play with less interruption time due to rain.

Today the advances in artificial grass surfaces are enormous and can't be down-played. It is common practice to no longer use asphalt as an underlay beneath the surface of the grass which has increased the shock absorption provided by the grass, decreased the retention of heat during summer and further improving the drainage ability of the grass. Finally and possibly most importantly no longer does fake grass look, both on and off T.V like the earlier versions of fake grass, that is, FAKE.

Typically artificial grass is approximately 3cm thick (from base to blade tip). The material of the 'blades' themselves are a polyethylene-polypropylene blend which are then woven into a mat-like backing (much like that of carpet). The only maintenance that is recommended is that the surface be given a once over each month, which involves rubbing it down. It you were to get this done professionally it is estimated that it would cost no more than a couple of thousand dollars a year. While this may initially sound a lot when compared to the water costs alone for the real thing – there is virtually no comparison. For those still sceptical and missing the small things associated with 'real' grass consider this. In America, consumers missing the smell associated with cut grass can purchase, that is right, purchase a can whose contents promise that 'just cut smell'!

But wait there is more……in addition, other requests by customers have included wanting to have the newly laid 'fake' lawn have the same effect as when you just cut real grass and there are the alternating light and dark bands of grass. This too can be achieved…..ah the marvels of modern society.

Once perceived as being exclusively for those at the lower end of the socioeconomic scale, time-and resource-poor, fake grass has now become the stable for all regards of income bracket. With everyone becoming increasingly time-limited and wanting immediate results - 'visual' perfection – artificial grass answers both these requirements.

As already mentioned fake grass has many advantages being both low maintenance, cheap and providing reliable year-round good looks for those concerned with their gardens aesthetic appearance. Especially in areas where water is particularly scarce and or for areas whether there is heavy usage – i.e. constant foot traffic – then fake or artificial grass may provide a practical solution. What is more, with fake or artificial grass there is no limit to the amount of area you wish to cover and up-keep is negligible especially when compared to the requirements of real grass. Golfing greens require the employ of a number of full-time 'green keepers' whose job it is to solely look after the lawns!!!! For those without this luxury in budget or time the alternative is clearly …….fake grass. No need for pesticides, watering, mowing, and replacing of dead patches etcetera.

While slow to catch on in many Westernized countries, Asian nations who are resource tight have long used fake grasses for their play-grounds, private lawns and commercial turfs. Furthermore, using fake grass removes the threat of degradation by human or other pests. The laying of fake grass is also immediate – like that of carpet. Another advantage is that is does not have to be a permanent fixture but can be lifted at any time.

About the author: HCOA is a directory of information on mowers, tractors, fertilizers, grass and outdoor appliances. For more information you can visit their website at http://www.hcoa.com.au

Friday, July 11, 2008

Know Your Yellow Roses!

Author: Ken Austin

Article: Yellow roses are beauties, aren't they? Don't they look beautiful on a sunny morning? Yellow roses say spring just their look and color. The yellow rose, while somewhat rare in its natural habitat, is becoming a popular item in the floral shop. Yellow roses might be what you are looking for, and if so, there are several ways to find the perfect yellow rose for your home or garden.

Yellow roses are one of a number of different colored roses that are available in garden centers and even discount department stores. But, there are so many varieties to choose from that you shouldn't limit yourself to whatever those places have on hand. Check out your local garden center for an idea of what they offer, but then explore the yellow rose varieties online as well. It is not a difficult task to find rose distributors who are able to supply yellow roses to the average customer. And, in doing so, you allow yourself to have many choices at your fingertips!

To find a distributor of yellow roses, simply use any major search engine like Yahoo or Google and type that phrase in. Hit go and you've got at your fingertips a wide selection of choices. Begin your search by comparing color, size, hardiness, and even price. Once you know what you want, try a couple of different places to find just the right characteristics and features available. With the Internet as a tool, it is easy to see how you can accomplish this in just a few minutes.

Remember to take into consideration the type of soil you will use, the surrounding area where you will plant the yellow rose, the amount of sun it will receive, and the temperatures it can tolerate. With all that said, finding gorgeous yellow roses isn't too bad of a task at all.

Thursday, July 10, 2008

Easter Lilies, and the Number One Gardening Question Right Now

Author: Doug Green

Article: Everybody asks about Easter lilies! Can they go outside; can I plant them in my garden? And to this I reply, ""Why not?"" Like <a href=""http://www.flower-garden-bulbs.com"">other bulbs,</a>there are two options if you plant your leftover Easter lily bulbs - either they will live and flower for many years (it is perfectly hardy into zone 4) or they will immediately die. If you don't plant the bulb, it will definitely die. So you have nothing to lose by planting. Once the Easter lily bloom has faded in the house, cut the stem back as far as you can. Grow the plant in a sunny windowsill, keeping it moist (not sopping) and feed weekly with houseplant food. After all danger of frost has passed wherever you live, you can plant it outdoors. Planting outdoors is as easy as digging a hole and planting so that the top of the bulb will be three inches below the surface. Add a shovel of compost and a shovel of peat moss to the planting hole and ensure the soil is well loosened. Remember it is necessary to dig a large enough hole to spread the lily roots out and to ensure it is at least eighteen inches from another plant. Place the bulb in the bottom of the planting hole and backfill the soil up to the neck of the bulb – do not cover the green leaves. Covering the green leaves at this time could rot them. Wait until the leaves have turned yellow and faded before totally filling in the hole. After you've planted the bulb, water it thoroughly. Carefully water and turn the area into a mudhole so no air spaces are left around the bulb. The original foliage may die back immediately after planting. If this happens, cut the foliage right back to the bulb and then backfill the hole. Do not be surprised to see a new set of leaves emerge from the hole. Water thoroughly after backfilling. The key to success with growing Easter lilies is to give the tops full sun but to shade the roots. Hot tops and cold feet would describe this growing condition. Also, excellent drainage is essential for bulb success. Poor drainage or clay soils will rot the bulb over winter because of excessive moisture. Remember the normal time for the lily to bloom is mid-summer. The first planting year you may see a bloom in mid-summer but the likelihood is that the bulb will wait for next year to bloom again. Your job is to grow the bulb. Do not cut off leaves until they are well faded and quite yellow. Do not pin them up so other plants can grow next to the lily. You want those leaves to stretch out and absorb as much sunlight as possible because they are feeding the bulb and making next year's flower bud. And next year's Easter lily bulb is what you're looking for, and the one after that, and the one after that too. If you're looking for <a href=""http://www.flower-garden-bulbs.com""> other bulb information,</a> check out this website.

About the author: Award winning garden author

Home:http://www.simplegiftsfarm.com

Blog:http://www.simplegiftsfarm.com/gardens-gardening-news.html

Tuesday, July 08, 2008

How to Grow Healthy Food

Author: Linda Paquette

Article: words: 400

How to Grow Healthy Food

To grow healthy food, you literally have to start at rock bottom. No matter what you're growing, from chickpeas to chickens, the truth is that you are what they eat!

It's no secret that all life begins with the soil. Although it may look like dirt to the naked eye, organically rich soil is a living, breathing community of microorganisms. These little denizens of the dirt are born, grow, breed, give birth and die leaving an estate of nutrition-filled remains to the soil. While they live, many of these little critters feed on undesirable elements like harmful bacteria.

Every year, gardeners spend thousands of dollars on chemical fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides that are little more than a quick fix to gardening problems and create long-term health hazards for everyone, from humans to single-celled organisms in the soil. If you really want to grow healthy food, the first step is to keep your underground colony in good health.

There are two things you need to do to maintain healthy soil. The first is to keep out the chemicals. The second is to add rich organic matter to your soil at regular intervals. Keep out the chemicals

No matter what amount of chemical you use in your gardening, a drop is a deluge to a microorganism. More to the point, most chemicals don't fade away. They leech into your garden and wait to attach to some growing thing… like your plants. One example is a gardener who claims to grow organic apples. He doesn't spray his trees, but he does use a chemical "weed & feed" application on his lawn, seemingly unaware of the systemic consequences of using chemicals.

Feed your soil

The best way to enrich your soil is to give it regular applications of composted organic matter. Compost can be anything from yard mulch to kitchen vegetable waste. If you don't have the time to maintain a compost bin, an easy way to add organic matter to your yard is through mowing your lawn with a mulching mower. Prepared compost is also available for purchase from nurseries and home garden centers.

Remember the house that Jack built? It's similar in your garden. The roots take from the soil to give to the stems that bear the buds that turn into the fruit…. Whether or not the fruit is healthy depends on what was in the soil.

About the author: Linda is editor of <a href=""http://www.gardening-guides.com"">Gardening Guides </a>

Monday, July 07, 2008

How to Control Deer in Your Garden

Author: Marilyn Pokorney

You may retrieve this article by:

Autoresponder: deercontrol@getresponse.com Website: http://www.apluswriting.net/articles/deercontrol.txt

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Deer are the most difficult of all pests to deter from a garden. They love many different plants. Flowers, vegetables, trees and shrubs are all on their menu.

The best way to keep deer out of a garden is by using a fence that is at least 6 feet high. If it's a small garden that may be feasible but for large gardens or yards, the cost is prohibitive, or possibly not practical.

So the only other choice is deterrents.

Deer don't like the smell of raw eggs, fish products, kelp, or ammonia. Any spray made from these products can be used. Just mix the product of choice in water and spray the plants to be protected.

Deer don't like the smell of soap either. Some gardeners have especially found success with Dial and Zest brands.

Blood meal scattered around the garden is another good deterrent.

Since deer don't like capsaicin, the ingredient that makes peppers hot, a spray made from chili peppers deters deers.

Hang fragrant fabric-softener strips, and small nylon bags filled with human hair on trees around the garden.

Some gardeners have found success by laying chicken wire on the ground about six feet wide around the perimeter of the garden. The deer don't like to walk on it because their hooves get stuck in the loops of the wire.

Try planting time-released garlic capsules at the bases of trees or shrubs or in the rows of plants to be protected.

There is a wide variety of plants that deer won't eat. A list of what they like and don't like can be obtained from your local county cooperative extension office.

For even more deterrents visit:

http://www.apluswriting.net/garden/yardiacdeercontrol.htm

About the author: Author: Marilyn Pokorney Freelance writer of science, nature, animals and the environment. Also loves crafts, gardening, and reading. Website: http://www.apluswriting.net

Sunday, July 06, 2008

The Rare Blue Roses

Author: Ken Austin

Article: Are you a rose lover? If so, or even if your not, Blue Roses are a variety anyone can appreciate. The Blue Rose is very rare, hard to find, and difficult to cultivate. Why is this? Are they available at all? To find out more information about Blue roses, keep reading.

Blue Roses are rare because they are difficult to cultivate. What does this mean? Well, in simple terms, the rose does not have blue pigment in its DNA therefore, does not allow itself to become blue even with scientists trying to make it happen, there is no true blue rose available today. But, there are alternatives.

One such alternative is to find Blue Moon Roses. These blue roses are beautiful in their fragile state. They are delicate and, simply gorgeous. While they look blue, they are a more lavender color. They give off a lavender scent as well. It blooms all summer long in beautiful color.

Another alternative to producing blue roses is to simply use dyes to change the color of the petals from white to blue. By placing a dye in the water the rose drinks, it creates a blue color in the leaves, petals, and stem. While the rose looks blue, it is not because it grew this way, but because of the dye.

So, if you are dead set on finding blue roses you may want to consider the above options. We continue to wait for scientists to develop a true blue rose. This rare beauty will bring great job to rose lovers everywhere.

Saturday, July 05, 2008

How to Attract Butterfly Activity...

Author: Gordon Goh

Article: The flittering of the butterfly through your garden is no accident if you planned your garden carefully. The adult butterfly flitters from flower to flower - sipping nectar from many flowers in your gardens, while other adult butterflies search for areas to lay their larvae. It is good to take note that the butterfly garden is going to differ from other areas of your garden. Your natural instincts will be to kill off pests, larvae and creatures in the garden, but in the butterfly garden your best results are noticed when you use organic gardening: Which means no chemicals at all.

In you want to include the use of butterflies in your landscape you will need to create a safety zone for your butterflies to feel safe. Butterflies frequent habitual zones, where they feel safe and where areas of the landscape meet with the tree lines. Creating your butterfly gardens near or around trees will help in attracting even more of these graceful creatures to your gardens.

A tip in attracting the Black Swallowtail or the Anise Swallowtail is this: Plant parsley, dill or fennel in your gardens, these plants attract this certain butterfly. If these herbs are not your favorites, you can attract other types of butterflies using other flowers. To attract the Fritillary butterfly for instance, plant Lupine flowers your garden. Or you may want to consider planting Snapdragons to attract butterflies that are native in your own area. Your early butterfly gardens are going to attract butterflies only in passing, but creating and growing the gardens that offer a safe haven for the butterfly will urge them to stay in your garden.

Butterflies are attracted to areas of your gardens where they can gather food for their offspring. The caterpillar will eat from the plants while the adult butterflies will sip on the nectar of the flowers. As your plants, shrubs, and flowers mature, the amount of butterflies to your gardens will also increase. The plants and flowers that you put in your garden this year will attract only a few, but in the years to come the natural instinct of the butterfly will lead them to your garden.

What is the adult butterfly searching for in your gardens? The butterfly searches for areas to take shelter from the high winds, the rains, and the summer storms. This is where the trees and shrubs in your gardens become important in protecting the butterfly and offering shelter. During the normal, warm sunny summer day the butterfly wants the wide-open areas of your lawn and garden.

Butterflies will seek soft soil that is sandy-like to find water. The sand-like soil that allows water to puddle up after a rainstorm is a butterflies delight. The developing stages of the caterpillar to the butterfly are observed often in the established butterfly garden.

By creating the atmosphere in the garden that offers the shelter, food, water and the fragrance the butterfly is searching for you will have Butterfly Garden success.

About the author: Gordon Goh is author of the free, informative website <a href=""http://www.simplyflowergarden.info"" target=""_blank"">Simply Flower Garden</a> offering quality useful tips for flower garden lovers. He is also the internet marketer with good knowledge in SEO

Friday, July 04, 2008

A guide to popular bulbs

Author: Tony Robinson

Article: Flowering bulbs are among the most popular of all ornamental plants, and they have enjoyed striking popularity for many years. Bulbs are renowned for their hardiness, color and variety, and there are enough types of bulbs to please even the most discriminating gardener.

With so many bulbs to choose from, it can be difficult to choose the right ones, so we present here a quick rundown of some of the most popular varieties of bulbs for the garden.

Crocus Crocus bulbs typically bloom in early spring or in late winter, and they feature tubular shaped flowers ranging in size from 1½"" to 3"" long. Crocuses come in a rainbow of colors, and they are a staple of many gardens. Other types of crocus, such as the saffron crocus, bloom instead in the fall, and the flowers can rise from the bare ground weeks, or even only days, after the bulbs are planted. It is important for crocus bulbs to be planted as soon as they become available in the fall. The best way to plant crocus bulbs is two to three inches deep, with a spacing of three or four inches between bulbs. Crocus bulbs should be planted in good quality soil with good drainage, and they should be provided with full sun or partial shade and watered regularly during their growing and blooming seasons.

Dahlia Dahlias bloom from summer through fall, and they also come in a wide variety of colors, shapes and sizes. The size of dahlia flowers can range from two to twelve inches, and the height of the plants themselves can vary from just under a foot to more than seven feet for certain stake varieties. It is best to plant dahlias after the last frost of the spring, and the roots should be set between four and six inches deep. Tall dahlia varieties should be spaced four or five feet apart, while shorter ones can be spaced from one to one and a half feet apart.

Dahlias should have access to full sun, but in areas where the summers are very hot they may benefit from partial shade as well. It is important to observe a regular watering schedule during the bloom and growth cycles of the dahlia.

Dahlia bulbs can be left in the ground if the winter temperatures do not go below 20 degrees Fahrenheit, but most gardeners prefer instead to dig the dahlia bulbs up at the end of each growing season. To do this, you should wait until the foliage has yellowed, then cut the stalks back to approximately four inches. The clumps of the roots should be permitted to dry in the sun a few hours, then placed in boxes in a single layer and covered up with either sawdust or dry sand. The bulbs should be stored in a cool dry place over the winter and replanted the following spring.

Galanthus Nivalis The galanthus is more commonly known as the snowdrop, and it is one of the first plants to bloom at the end of the winter. These plants are typically six to eight inches in height, and they feature one bell shaped flower on each side of the stalk. Snowdrops are best suited for colder climates, and the bulbs are best planted in the autumn of the year. The bulbs should be planted from three to four inches deep and about three inches apart. Snowdrops typically do best in full sun or partial shade, and they like regular watering during their blooming and growing cycles.

About the author: Tony Robinson is an international author and webmaster. In his busy life he finds time to ""Smell the Roses"". For geat tips, techniques and articles visit http://www.rose-bloom.com

Thursday, July 03, 2008

Control Snakes in the Garden

Author: Marilyn Pokorney

You may retrieve this article by:

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To have a snake or two in the garden is good. Non-poisonous snakes, such as the common garter snakes, are beneficial creatures because they eat pest insects, mosquito larvae, slugs, snails, crickets, rats, mice, voles and even other snakes which may be poisonous.

But if you really don't want snakes in your yard and garden here are a few tips to eliminate them without hurting or killing them.

Keep the lawn neatly cut and clean. Be careful using weed eaters because the sting from the fast moving string can kill them.

Snakes need cover for protection. Don't leave wood or brush piles sit in one spot for more than a month.

Keep leaves and other debris picked up.

Don't keep piles of rocks.

Stack firewood on a rack 12"" off the ground.

Remove old lumber or junk piles.

Remove their source of food. Keep the insect and rodent population under control.

Place garbage bags in sealed trash cans away from the house.

Repair cracks along the foundation and fill holes around pipes. Snakes only need about a ¼ inch crack to get inside.

Sprinkle moth balls around the perimeter of your yard or garden. But beware that these can be dangerous to pets and children.

Sulfur from a garden center is said to keep snakes away.

Don't plant bushes and other plants too close to the foundation of the house.

Use mulch in the garden beds but not too thickly.

Trim the lowest limbs on shrubs and bushes so they are at least 12 inches from the ground.

Construct a fence around your garden with heavy galvanized screening. Make it three feet wide with quarter-inch mesh. Be sure to bury the bottom of it six inches below the soil surface.

For more help on controlling snakes:

http://www.apluswriting.net/garden/snakecontrol.htm

About the author: Marilyn Pokorney Freelance writer of science, nature, animals and the environment. Also loves crafts, gardening, and reading. Website: http://www.apluswriting.net

Wednesday, July 02, 2008

Flower Meanings

Author: The Gift Wizard

Article: Certain types or colors of flowers mean different things, and you don't want to send the wrong message if you give them as a gift! Of course, not everyone knows what a particular flower means, but you can never be too sure!

FLOWER NAME and/or COLOR -- FLOWER MEANINGS

Carnations

Carnation (General) -- Fascination Carnation, Pink -- Emblem of Mother's Day, I will never forget you Carnation, Purple -- Antipathy and Capriciousness Carnation, Red -- Admiration, my heart aches for you Carnation, Striped -- No, Sorry, I cannot be with you Carnation, White -- Pure Love, Sweet Love, Innocence Carnation, Yellow -- Disdain and Rejection

Lilies

Lily, Calla -- Majestic Beauty Lily, Day -- Coquetry Lily, Orange -- Hatred and Disdain, Wealth, Pride Lily, White -- Majesty and Purity, Virginity Lily of the Valley -- Purity and Humility, Sweetness

Roses

Rose, Coral/Orange -- Enthusiasm, Desire Rose, Dark Pink -- Thank you Rose, Light Pink -- Admiration Rose, Musk -- Capricious Beauty Rose, Pale -- Friendship Rose, Peach -- Let's get together, Closing of the deal Rose, Pink -- Love, Grace, Gentility, You're so Lovely Rose, Pink & White -- Love, Desire, Respect, Courage, Job well done Rose, Red -- Majesty and Purity, Virginity Rose, Red & Yellow -- Congratulations Rose, White -- Charm, Secrecy, Silence, You're Heavenly Rose, White on Red -- Unity/Flower Emblem of England Rose, Yellow -- Infidelity, Joy, Friendship, Welcome Back, Remember me Rose, Yellow & Orange -- Passionate thoughts

Tulips

Tulip -- Symbol of The Perfect Lover Tulip, Red -- Believe me, Declaration of love Tulip, Variegated -- Beautiful eyes

Others

Daffodil -- Emblem of Annunciation/Regard, Unrequited love Daisy -- Gentleness, Innocence, Loyal love Iris -- Faith, Wisdom, Valor, Your Friendship means so much Orchid -- Magnificence, Love, Beauty, Refinement Sunflower -- Homage and Devotion

About the author: The Gift Wizard is a gift researcher for <a href='http://www.the-gift-wizard.com'>http://www.the-gift-wizard. com</a>

Tuesday, July 01, 2008

How to Use Color in Your Perennial Garden

Author: Jeff Pozniak

Article: Just like most things in life, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. If purple blooms put a smile on your face, then you should most definitely use plants with purple blooms. The same is true for any color you find pleasing. There are different disciplines to pull from when trying to decide on color choices, but those disciplines speak in generalities; your own personal experiences mold your tastes into something unique, something your own, something a text or curriculum can't possibly pinpoint.

That being said, one of the disciplines I like to pull from often, especially when it comes to color choices, is Feng Shui. While I'm not part of the Feng Shui orthodoxy, the design and layout lessons I've taken from Feng Shui are fundamentally grounded in sound design. They can be used inside and outside the home, no matter if you have each and every room aligned to maximize it's chi (energy), or you just want to make a garden space more appealing.

For example, a 'room' (defined by either an indoor or outdoor space) with metal energy tends to be very clean and structured. Some colors that are considered to have metal energy are white, silver and gold. And in my opinion, some lighter blues, when considering plant blooms, could be grouped with those colors as well. Metal energy tends to allow for clear and concise thinking and the carrying out and completion of tasks.

On a much smaller scale, when I finish a landscape design and want to begin the next design, I need some of the cleansing effects of metal energy. I remove every template, pencil, eraser bag and architect's scale from my drafting table and I wipe down the table. I'm left with a stark white table, and with that I am able to lay down a new piece of vellum and wash the previous design from my mind and begin to get involved with the next space I'll design. I find that structure and the absence of color leaves my imagination open to consider new design possibilities.

The very same can be true for a garden space. An organized, mass planting of white Tulip bulbs can provide a space in your yard to give you clarity of thought or purpose. Add some yellows and earthy tones to blend a nurturing feeling into that planting. It'll give you the same feeling as you get with an early morning cup of coffee, watching the sun rise to greet a new day; full of warmth, potential and purpose.

You've heard of the power tie or the power dress, right? Take that flame red color to the blooms in your yard and you may be filled with those same feelings of power and confidence. Are you more the strong, silent type? Blues and violets can lend a feeling of inner strength and serenity.

I believe the first decision you should make when planning your color scheme for your yard is to decide how you want to feel when you're taking in the beauty of that space. Once you have a sense for that, I recommend finding a book or two to help you make your selections. 'Feng Shui in 10 Simple Lessons' by Janet Butler-Briggs, is a wonderful beginning to learning that approach to using color. 'Color Harmony' by Bride M. Whelan, shows you hundreds of different color combinations with real-life examples of their use, to help you create the perfect space, indoors or out.

About the author: Jeff Pozniak is the administrator for the <a href=""http://www.groundtradesxchange.com"">Ground Trades Xchange</a>, a landscaping industry website. He is also a landscape contractor with nearly 20 years experience.

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