Sunday, December 31, 2006

Homemade Hummingbird Nectar

Author: George Steiner

Article: We love hummingbirds and love to watch them throughout the day, especially after a long day, relaxing in our backyard nature retreat.

We have 4 feeders that are strategically located throughout our gardens. The red, hummingbird nectar feeders ( red attracts hummingbirds) are placed in areas that are naturally defined “territories” ( as you know, hummingbirds are very territorial) which helps cut down on the fighting.

Our recipe is derived from the old standard recipe, but please be aware that a lot of research has gone into making sure that we are providing the most beneficial source of hummingbird food replacement.

Our recipe starts with cane sugar. As you know, there are two sources of sugar: cane sugar and beet sugar, of which 70% of the world’s supply comes from cane sugar. Both are chemically “sucrose” and fall into the carbohydrate family. Carbohydrates are easily digested and provide the immediate “energy boost” that hummingbirds need to sustain their incredibly high metabolism. (Comment: I guess if we humans had that kind of metabolism we wouldn’t be facing our obesity crisis! Wow…what a concept …more exercise …increased metabolic rate …burn more calories …less fat).

Sorry! Back to the topic…the second constituent our hummingbird food recipe is water. Ever thought about the type of water you use for your hummingbird food? We have. The hummingbird’s source water comes from the naturally occurring water sources available: dew, rain water and deposits of rain water, people provided (bird baths), and finally that provided in the hummingbird’s diet.

We use our tap water which is supplied from our well. The water’s chemical composition is generally hard ( contains calcium and magnesium) but has a TDS ( Total Dissolved Solids) of 275 ppm with no measurable concentrations of lead or arsenic. Its safe for us to drink so the hummers get the benefits of some added minerals. We feel its better than using distilled or purified water in our hummingbird recipe.

Now, if you’re a city dweller, you may have chlorine or flouride added to your water. I’d recommend boiling that water to flash off the chlorine or flouride, 5 minutes of boiling should be sufficient.

Next ingredient ….RED COLORING….No way!

Lets look at it from a hummingbird’s perspective. They like red and are attracted to the color due to genetics and environmental stimuli … flowers. If your hummingbird feeder is red… why do you need more?

Naturally occurring nectar is clear and odorless ( Hummingbirds are not attracted by scent). So why buy these colored or scented mixes?

The red coloring (Red #40) has been banned in countries due to its mutagenic properties ( can cause cancer). Why would you want to introduce chemicals into the hummingbird’s diet that are foreign to their digestive system?

Several experienced, licensed wildlife rehabilitators have reported seeing disturbing damage in hummers that were known to use dyed syrup, including tumors of the bill and liver.

Here is our researched hummingbird food recipe:

1 part cane sugar/ 4 parts water ( no chlorine or fluoride) Measure and add sugar, at the rate of 1/4 cup of sugar to 1 cup of water. Let cool and store excess in refrigerator until ready to use.

Fill one-third of the container and be sure to change the mixture twice a week. You will need to clean your feeder every few days, with hot water and a mild (10%) bleach solution to inhibit bacteria/mold. Rinse thoroughly before refilling with water syrup.

Hope you enjoyed the article!

George Steiner www.hum-ming-bird.com

About the author: George and wife Judy are empty nesters (ah ha no wonder the affinity for birds!)who enjoy the outdoors, stained glass and eagerly awaiting for the truckloads of laundry that their two college daughters bring home. Of recent, the internet has played an integral part in George's lengthening ""To Do"" list and Judy's search for a internet rehabilitation center.

Saturday, December 30, 2006

Maximize your waterfall flow with the Master DW Waterfall pump

Author: Gerry Fung

Article: A common mistake that beginner water gardeners often make is that they fail to take the height and width of their waterfall into consideration, when they purchase a waterfall pump. Because of this, it is quite common for water gardeners to underestimate the size of the pump required for their pond.

Calculating the proper pump for waterfalls can be tricky, because waterfall pumps are rated by both GPH and maximum waterfall height. To estimate your waterfall's height, you must measure the vertical height from the top of your pump to the top of your waterfall or stream. In addition, you must add another foot of height or lift for every 10 feet of hosing you will be using (this will allow for loss of volume from resistance within the hose). To calculate the required pump GPH, a general rule of thumb is that each inch of width of the channel will require an extra 100 GPH. For example, if your stream or waterfall spillway will be 10 inches wide, you will need a pump that produces an excess flow of 1000 GPH at your waterfall's height.

Do not make the mistake of underestimating the pump size that you require, otherwise, your waterfall will be reduced to a trickle of water. If you have a large waterfall, you will need a specialized pump that will provide you sufficient GPH. <a href = ""http://www.gardensupermart.com"">GardenSM.com</a> is proud to introduce a new product line of high-end Master DW submersible waterfall pumps that can run at ratings of up to 2780 GPH. The pumps in the Master DW series have been designed for medium to large ponds, for particularly dirty water, and to create waterfalls.

One of the most significant benefits of the Master DW series is that they have been designed to be clog-free. In addition to their built-in double filtration intake that can filter waste particles up to 8mm in size, all Master DW pumps feature an anti-clog system which consists of a double-rotation impeller. This ""self-cleaning"" feature is particularly useful when there is an abundance of leaves and sediment in your pond water. If one of the rotors is ever blocked by an object, the impeller will reverse direction, until the object is removed and normal operating status can be restored. And if these two fail-safe anti-clog mechanisms are not enough, the pump can also be combined with external filters for increased filtration.

The Master DW currently comes in 1430 GPH (Master DW 5500) and 2780 GPH (Master DW 10500) versions. Both run on SICCE's patented NRG energy system, which utilizes magnet-synchronous motors for exceptional power and reliability. However, the 10500 model is a top-of-the-line pump which offers an unprecedented 10,500 lt/h power/head performance at 10 mt.

The simplicity and reliability of the Master DW's synchronous motors, and its fail-safe anti-clog system, combined with the most sophisticated electronics make the Master DW a truly unique product.

The Master DW can be purchased from GardenSM.com's online store at <A href = ""http://www.gardensupermart.com/buypond/c230094p16551679.2.html""> http://www.gardensupermart.com/buypond/c230094p16551679.2.html</a >.

Please visit <a href = ""http://www.gardensupermart.com"">http://www.GardenSM.com</a> for more information about water gardening.

About the author: None

Liner ponds versus folding preformed ponds

Author: Gerry Fung

Article: <h2>Introduction</h2>

So you’ve decided to build your very own backyard water garden. You are in the process of actively planning out your design, and you’re visualizing the end-result. But have you paused to consider what kind of pond construction you will be using? Do you know what kind of pond constructions exist? The majority of garden ponds utilize one of two types of constructions: a preformed shell, or a pond liner. </p> <IMG height=177 src=""http://gardensupermart.com/buypond/pics/72.jpg"" width=152 border=0> <IMG height=192 src=""http://gardensupermart.com/buypond/pics/105.jpg"" width=146 border=0> <IMG height=194 src=""http://gardensupermart.com/buypond/pics/144.jpg"" width=190 border=0>

<h2>Introducing Folding Preformed Pond Shells</h2>

Traditionally, preformed ponds are large shells, which are extremely burdensome and difficult to transport. For example, a typical preformed pond kit would come in a box that is 60” x 48” x 24”, which is too large for many car trunk sizes. </p>

To alleviate this problem, flexible preformed ponds have recently been introduced by various manufacturers. These folding ponds include built-in plant shelves, are weather-resistant, and are able to withstand extreme temperatures from 0 F to 105 F. </p>

<IMG height=152 src=""http://gardensupermart.com/buypond/pics/folding1.gif"" width=192 border=0> <IMG height=151 src=""http://gardensupermart.com/buypond/pics/folding2.gif"" width=188 border=0> <IMG height=150 src=""http://gardensupermart.com/buypond/pics/folding3.gif"" width=191 border=0> </P>

One example of a folding pond, is the one that Algreen distributes (available at <a href = ""http://www.gardensupermart.com"">GardenSM.com</a>). Upon closer examination of one of their ponds, one of its greatest features is its textured ridges. These ridges are strategically placed to allow beneficial bacteria to form growth colonies, which significantly reduces algae-buildup in the pond. </p> <h2>Liner Ponds</h2>

Liner kits, on the other hand, present many difficulties for the beginner pond gardener. Since every liner pond shape is different, pond gardeners must customize their own pond and ensure that it is level, and that it does not have excessive wrinkling. Therefore, liners are ideal for the more experienced water gardeners because they allow for customizable installations, which consequently promotes greater creativity. However, for the very same reasons, liner ponds also require some extra pre-planning. </p>

Because you can create various shapes with liners, it is possible to construct larger, and deeper liner pond configurations (when compared to preformed ponds). For example, a typical preformed pond at <a href = ""http://www.gardensupermart.com/buypond/"">GardenSM.com</a> can only hold up to 144 gallons of water. On the other hand, a 10' x 15' liner can be purchased from the same store that can construct a pond that would hold up to 700 gallons of water. However, in terms of cost, the purchase of a EPDM liner is a more expensive option, when compared to the purchase of a preformed pond. </p>

Before making a decision about the pond construction that you require, it is important that you take a moment to consider several variables: cost, labour required, and creativity. It is hoped that by making the proper decision that your pond experience will be all the more enjoyable. </p>

About the author: Gerry Fung is the Vice President of <a href = ""http://www.northbridgeproducts.com"">Northbridge Products Inc.</a>.

Everyone Loves Flowers

Author: Frank Vanderlugt

Article: Flowers Truly Reach Your Soul. Flowers are a heartfelt, natural way to lift our spirits. They can provide a smile for a tired face or even brighten a room for a convalescent. Just imagine your favourite flower. Are you smiling yet? You are definitely in a better mood.

There isn't a doubt that beautiful surroundings provide us with a favorite environment that helps us thrive. Flowers are an simple and affordable way to add a splash of color and emotion into your life. Tropical flowers are an exciting new change from traditional floral gifts like roses , and with modern shipping methods they are availble worldwide. Their large size and vibrant colors make them an impressive gift for favorite occasions like Mother's Day, Valentine's Day, birthdays and anniversaries.

Flowers can be purchased from local florists or ""Grower Direct"" services that ship them worldwide. If purchasing flowers to be shipped, make sure someone is waiting to accept the order and that they are not left with the mail on a back porch in the sun all afternoon until someone comes home from work. Flowers are shipped without any water supply, and neglecting them for hours on top of the shipping time can take days off their lifespan.

If you buy tropical flowers like heliconias or gingers, or if you are lucky enought to live in the tropics and have them in your garden, here are a select few tips to help them thrive and to extend their shelf life as cut flowers.

Caring for Cut Tropical Flowers ------------------------------------------

one. Water your plants well and give them a large drink prior to cutting. This is significant for foliage plants as well because a few varieties “drink” incredibly little after cutting. Instead, they live off their stored sap.

Tropical plants have adapted to their natural environment which means frequent but short periods of heavy tropical downpour.

Look at the flower heads and notice how the petals are “cupped” to catch and store as much water as possible. These plants drink from the top and like being showered with water.

Look at the pattern on the leaves. The ridges channel water down to the stem where it's absorbed into the many layers of the plant.

two. If your flowers have been out of water for any length of time after cutting, submerge them entirely in the bath for half an hour before placing them in a vase.

three. Cut three to four inches off the stem and then place them in a tall vase FULL of clean water.

four. Use a spray bottle to mist them at least twice a day.

five. Change the water and trim a new end on the stems every second or third day.

You are able to double the vase life of your cut flowers by applying these elementary techniques.

About the author: None

Pest control for perennials

Author: Tony Robinson

Article: Perennials are a great choice for any garden, with their great variety of colors, shapes and sizes. Perennials also have another important advantage over other types of flowers. That is, unlike annuals, which must be replanted year after year, perennials, by their very nature, are able to regenerate from year to year. This means you are free to plant once and enjoy many seasons of beautiful blooms.

While the actual longevity of perennials varies from variety to variety, some types, such as peonies, have been known to last for decades once planted.

This longevity, however, can come at a price, and one of those disadvantages is that perennials need more care when it comes to maintenance, weeding and pest control. Unlike the annual garden, which is dug up and restarted each year, perennials remain in the ground over the winter, and this can make them more prone to common garden pests than other types of plants.

One of the best defenses against pests in the perennial garden is a healthy and vigorous selection of plants. The healthier the plants in the garden the better they will be at fighting off common pests and garden infections. Plants that are well cared for and vigorous will be much less susceptible to damage by insects and other pests.

The vigilance of the gardener is another great tool in preventing pest infestations from getting out of control. A good gardener is constantly on the lookout for early signs of problems, such as holes in the leaves, marks or wounds on the stems, and other signs of pest problems.

Having a good guide to common garden pests and diseases is a good idea as well, since it can sometimes be difficult for the untrained eye to tell exactly what the problem is. Diagnosing the problem is the best way to cure it quickly, before it can spread.

Gardeners have a choice when it comes to pest control in their gardens. There are of course a great many chemical pesticides on the market, but there are a number of natural methods as well. Many experienced gardeners prefer to start out with the natural approach first, and move onto chemical methods only when natural attempts have failed.

One great natural pest control approach is to use beneficial insects to control harmful pests. Many garden supply stores sell these beneficial insects, and it is usually easy to seed a garden with these insects and get them to stay and remove harmful pests.

In addition, aphids can often be controlled simply by spraying plants with a very dilute mixture of soapy water, followed by a rinse of clean water. This method often works just as well, and is considerably less expensive, than chemical methods, and it has proven effective even on serious aphid infestations.

Another great way to control pests is to buy pest and disease resistant varieties of plants. Many perennials have been selectively bred to be resistant to common pests and diseases. If these varieties are available it is a good idea to seek them out. Even if they are more costly up front, the money you save on pesticides and other chemicals can make them quite cost effective.

About the author: Tony Robinson is an international author and webmaster. In his busy life he finds time to ""Smell the Roses"". For geat tips, techniques and articles visit http://www.rose-bloom.com

Friday, December 29, 2006

Preserving Flowers From A Potpourri Garden

Author: Jeff Slokum

Article: Fresh cut flowers all spring and summer are one of the bonuses of having a flower garden. Wouldn’t you love to extend that bonus throughout the year? By choosing the right flowers and learning methods of drying and preserving flowers, you can fill your house with the beauty and fragrance of potpourri all year long.

Growing a Potpourri Garden Potpourri is a fragrant mix of dried flower petals, leaves, whole flowers and spices. It can be sewn into sachets, simmered in a potpourri burner, or displayed in an open bowl. By choosing herbs and flowers that dry well and maintain their fragrance when dried, you’ll be well on your way to scenting your home with the natural fragrance of last summer’s garden.

Your potpourri mix should include both flowers and herbs from your garden, and be chosen with an eye toward color and a nose for scent. A potpourri garden might include several (or all!) of the following:

Fragrant Herbs and Flowers for a Potpourri Garden Lilac – this flower is both beautiful and fragrant. To use in potpourri, dry the flowerets separately on a drying screen. For use in dried flower arrangements, use silica gel to dry whole flowers.

Lavender – another fragrant purple flower, lavender dries well. Hang in bunches upside down in a dark, dry room. Both leaves and flowers carry the fragrance of lavender and can be used in potpourri.

Roses – Roses are a beautiful addition to any potpourri. For fragrance, separate the petals and dry on a drying screen. If you want to include whole rosebuds from your potpourri garden, they’re best dried in silica or another desiccant, but small, delicate rosebuds can be dried on screens as well.

Mint – There’s an amazing variety of mints available, and nearly any will add a hint of fresh spice to a potpourri. If you choose to grow mint in a potpourri garden, be sure to ‘cage’ the roots so that it doesn’t take over the entire plot. To dry, either air dry tied bunches, or dry separated leaves on a drying screen.

Lemon Balm – This perennial herb has a light lemony-mint scent that enhances the fragrance of roses and lilacs. The leaves should be picked before the plant flowers and dried quickly – it’s one of the few herbs that benefits from drying in a low oven on a screen.

Violets – Sweetly scented and brightly colored, violets preserve their color well through drying. To dry, nip the flower off just at the base of the head, and lay on drying screens in the sun.

Flowers and Herbs for Color in a Potpourri Garden Many of the herbs and flowers listed above are brightly colored as well as fragrant. There are some flowers, however, that will add little to the fragrance of potpourri but dry so prettily that it’s a shame not to include them.

Calendula – Bright yellow or blue petals make calendula a pretty addition to a bowl of potpourri. To use, you can either dry the entire flower head, or separate the petals to dry on a flower screen.

Pansies – A relative of violets, pansies retain their bright color when dried in silica gel. They’re a wonderful addition to a potpourri garden – besides their appearance, they’re edible and wonderful in salads or as candied decorations on a cake. In potpourri, the dried petals or whole-dried flowers make a beautiful accent.

About the author: This article courtesy of <A HREF=http://www.best-florists.org>http://www.best-florists.org</A >

What is the Right Plant and Where Do I Put It?

Author: james ellison

Article: Know if your plants are disease-susceptible. Your choice of plants used in your garden is as important as the soil that you put those plants in. Select plants that are disease resistant and they will be much more easy to maintain and will give you the look you are wanting. Food for thought is use plants that are native to your area.

The experience you get will tell you which are the troublesome plants. Obtain your plants from reliable sources and ask those people for their suggestions. They should be happy to help you because of return sales. The local cooperative extension service should provide much needed info for you. Some catalogs will list disease resistance plants.

Experience will eventually tell you which plant diseases are most troublesome in your region. Your local nursery and cooperative extension service are also good sources for information on local diseases and disease-resistant plants. Seed and nursery catalogs often list disease resistance in plant descriptions.

There are resistant varieties that exist for such diseases as apple scab, armillaria root rot, bean mosaic virus, blueberry mummyberry, cherry viruses, juniper tips and twig blights, lilac bacterial blight, powdery mildew, pea enation mosaic virus, potato scab, black spot, rust, tomato fusarium and root-knot nematode, fireblight, verticillium wilt, and other diseases.

What does the wrong exposure do to your plants? Take a long look at the conditions you have in your garden and choose your plants accordingly. Plants are usually clearly marked whether they prefer sun, partial shade or complete shade.

Shade plants grown in sun turn yellowish and grow poorly. They will get a sunburn which will develope dead spots on their leaves. Avoid south or west exposure. The sun lovers are often stunted and spindly when grown in the shade. If they grow at all, they are usually weak looking and have few leaves. Reduced flowering on many plants may result from shade placement.

Use water conservation landscaping whenever you can. Most gardeners in drought climates have come to realize the importance of water conservation.But in areas where water is plentiful, however, waste in the garden is way too common. We take our water supply for granted by wasting more than we ever need and in many areas, more groundwater is pumped than nature can replace through precipitation and runoff.

Why not use drought-tolerant plants. These plants grow well with little water once they are established. Mulch every plant you have.

Some grass species need less water than others, but lawns generally need a large amount of water to stay green and growing. If you replace the grass with drought-tolerant ground covers or flowers you'll save a large amount of water and even - money. If you can click here to read a funny story that hits the nail on head for what I am saying here.

Probably your favorite plants will have high water requirements. By grouping and mulching these plants allows you to irrigate them together, thus reducing water waste.

What about fruit-pollination requirements! Many beginning gardeners are confused when their fruit trees fail to bear fruit. Could be a pollination problem.

Certain types of trees produce bigger and more abundant fruit with cross-pollination between different cultivars. The others, cross-pollinating is mandatory to get any fruit at all.

Learn a fruit's pollination requirements before planting. If your space is limited, pick a self-pollinating fruit, such as European-type plums or almost any of the peach cultivars.

Pollination will not happen without insects, butterflies or hummingbirds. When chemical pesticides are routinely used by a neighbor or yourself, the honeybees and other pollinating insects can be reduced so that fruit production suffers. Go organic.

About the author: James Ellison makes it easy for you to understand picking plants and knowing where to put them. If you need to know more about organic gardening visit: www.basic-info-4-organic-fertilizers.com

Thursday, December 28, 2006

An Edible Flower Garden

Author: John Sanderson

Article: To most of us, the idea of eating flowers evokes the humorous image of someone biting into a rose, or chomping off the head of a daisy. Yet there was a time not so very long ago that flowers were an integral part of cooking. While most of us are aware that violets can be candied and nasturtiums eaten in salad, there’s a truly amazing variety of flowers that are not only edible, but delicious!

A Candy Flower Garden for Your Sweet Tooth Violets aren’t the only flower that can be candied! Many of the spring flowers with small, delicate blossoms have a sweet, slightly spicy flavor that is enhanced by dipping in sugar. It goes without saying that any flowers that you gather for eating should not have been sprayed with any pesticide – by growing them yourself, you can be sure that they’re untreated. A Candy Flower Garden that blooms throughout the summer can include:

Violets – of course! Purple, blue or white, violets are among the first flowers to bloom in the spring. They spread easily, and grow readily when transplanted into a garden bed – and you do want to confine them to a bed unless you love the look of a full carpet of blooms spreading across your lawn.

Pansies – A relative of violets, pansies are just as delicately flavored and can be used in most recipes that call for violets. They make beautiful border flowers, with their bright painted faces.

Angelica – These delicate, lacy white flowers can be sprinkled in salads – but the stems and shoots make a delicious traditional candy that tastes a bit like minty licorice.

Roses – yes, roses! Candied rose petals and rose syrup were mainstays in Victorian cooking. Sweet delicately flavored rose syrup gives baklava its characteristic flavor, and is a perfect foil for cardamom in Indian recipes.

To candy flowers from your garden: Violets and pansies can be candied whole. Roses should be separated into petals. Most recipes for candied flowers call for the use of raw egg whites. Because of the danger of salmonella, I recommend using a confectioner’s powdered egg white instead.

Mix powdered egg white according to package directions (equivalent of one egg white).

Spread a cup of superfine sugar in a flat bottomed pan. Carefully dip each flower into the egg white, then press into the sugar. Use a fork to gently turn the flower so that all surfaces of the petals are covered. Lift out of sugar and lay on a screen or drying rack till completely dry. Apple and cherry blossoms can also be candied the same way.

A Soup, Salad and Savory Flower Garden

When I was growing up, one of the most special treats of early summer was my grandmother’s fried squash blossoms. Dipped in egg and flower, then fried in olive oil with garlic, the blossoms have a sweet, nutty flavor that is like nothing else in this world. Other garden flowers that are delicious in soups and salads include:

Borage – Like the leaves, borage flowers are delicious in salads and cold soups. They have a cool, cucumber like taste that translates well from flower garden to kitchen table.

Carnations – The flavor is as spicy as the scent. Carefully separate the petals from the bitter white of the flower’s base and sprinkle in salads for a surprising touch of color and spice.

Daylilies – Like squash blossoms, day lilies have a mildly sweet, nutty flavor that many people think varies by color. Dredged in flour and dipped in egg, fried daylilies are a succulent vegetable.

Those are just a small sampling of the many edible uses of flowers from your garden. If you’re interested in learning more, you’ll find excellent recipes and information on edible flowers at a number of web sites on the internet. DO be careful in your taste-testing. If you’re not certain that a flower is edible do NOT eat it.

About the author: This article courtesy of <A HREF=http://www.gardening-answers.com>http://www.gardening-answer s.com</A>

Planning A Container Water Gardens For Any Yard

Author: Ryan Larson

Article: I have an admission to make. I’m a natural born swamp-child. To me, there are few things in this world more beautiful than the marshy edges where pond meets woods and creates the perfect growing environment for cattails, water-lilies, lotus, cabomba and lush green ferns.

Alas, it has been my misfortune to live in the middle of the city, in rented apartments with postage stamps for yards. For years, I lusted after large, spacious backyards with room to dig your own pond. I read articles on building water gardens, koi ponds, and backyard fountains and sighed with envy. Then I discovered a simple fact – all it takes to create a water garden is a sunny spot that’s big enough for a pot of water.

It’s no more difficult to grow a water garden in a container than it is to grow any other container gardens. If you have a sunny spot – at the very least 6 hours of full sun daily throughout the summer – you can create a water garden. Your water garden can be as simple as a large tub with a few submerged plants, or as elaborate as several arranged container gardens with rocks and a fountain powered by a circulating pump. If you’d like to try your hand at creating a simple container water garden, you’ll find everything you need at a local home supply store like Home Depot.

Planning a Container Water Garden Location is the single most important factor in planning your water garden. Your space can be as small as a single square yard, but it MUST receive plenty of sun throughout the day. Think twice about locating a water garden of any sort beneath an overhanging tree. The leaves that fall will decay in the water and can foul it. If you’re building an actual pond, or using a large container like a swimming pool, check local ordinances regarding safety.

The plants that you choose should be suited to the container that you’re using. Choose plants that are hardy for your planting zone. There are four basic kinds of water plants:

Floating water plants – like water hyacinth and cabomba – require no planting at all. They float on the surface of the water with their roots trailing to absorb nutrients.

Surface Plants – like water lilies, lotus and floating yellow heart rooted in the pond’s bottom (or in this case, in a submerged pot), and put out leaves on long stems to float on the surface of the water.

Submerged plants – grow completely underwater, and seldom show their leaves above the surface. They help maintain the balance of nitrogen and other nutrients, and will require thinning to keep them in check.

Marginal or Bog plants – grow at the edges of ponds in the wild. They like to keep their feet wet, so to speak – with their roots and lower parts of their stems underwater. Dwarf cattails, black taro and sweet flag are examples of marginal plants.

When choosing plants for your container water garden, keep in mind the size of your container. Don’t overcrowd your garden – the rule of thumb is that your plants should cover no more than 2/3 of the surface of the water.

About the author: This article courtesy of <A HREF=http://www.florists-guide.net>http://www.florists-guide.net< /A>

Fall Garden Planning - Garden plans for next spring and ordering by mail

Author: Jill Dow

Article: It's August, the weather has cooled a bit here and the summer monsoons where I live in New Mexico have begun. The kids are starting back to school and I feel the onset of fall. I'm getting that garden planning itch again! It happens 2-3 times a year... This time, it's time to start ordering bulbs and perennials for fall planting. I'm always planning how my garden will look better next season and I suppose most of you do the same. Fall is the perfect time to plant for established growth next spring!

Take a good look at your garden now and think about areas you need to fill in. Do you need late season color, early spring blooms? Are there bare spots or places where plants like poppies or tulips go dormant and you need a filler to keep your garden alive with color? I find the best time for next years planning is in the fall when bloom time and plant combinations are fresh in my mind.

You may be disappointed with a plant combination you chose last season. Fall is the perfect time to rearrange. Get rid of overgrown plants and revive areas with new color or foliage combinations. Think about areas in your bulb or perennial garden you want to develop. What size, shape and bloom color do you need? Plant them this fall and watch your pans come to fruition come spring.

Shrubs and trees do take years to mature and fill their place. You can get a jump start by planting them this fall. When spring arrives they'll be much more hardy and will require less babying.

Fall is the perfect time to mail order bulbs, perrenials, shrubs, hedges and trees. We're winding down the season and if you're anything like me you're just not ready to quit quite yet. Sure there's clean up to be done, but I find more planting helps to finish those mundane cxhores. As I clean out I plant new!

<b>Ordering online or by mail</b>

Ordering plants online can be a bit scary. How are the plants shipped? Will they be good quality? Will they arrive at the right time and will I be prepared to plant them then?

Fear not! I've ordered in fall for years and have had tremendous results!

<b>Plant Quality and Guarantees</b>

Nurseries do differ in what and how they ship so make sure you do some research, but almost all reputable mail order nurseries do guarantee their plants to grow or your money back. I've never had trouble collecting on that promise and I have used it a time or two for certain plants. I also admit, a bit grudgingly as a then new gardener, that I should never have ordered those specific plants for my climate. Nevertheless the nursery did stand behind it's guarantee.

<b>How Plants Are Shipped</b>

Some plants will be shipped bare root, others as potted plants. This depends on the plant variety and I've actually found preference to bare root plants. They do look dead when they arrive (they are actually dormant), but I assure you that unless they have visible signs of disease like rot they'll thrive come spring.

*Note - If you do get any plants that look like the crown has rotted either ship them back immediately or just phone the nursery and they'll ship out new ones.

<b>When to Plant</b>

While you never know exactly when your plants will arrive, they are shipped to you at the proper planting time for your gardening zone. If plants arrive and it's not convenient to plant immediately just make sure you follow the directions included in your shipment for keeping your plants viable until you can plant them. If you've planned ahead you will know where they go and it'll take you little time to get them in the ground. A Saturday afternoon will usually give you ample time to get this done.

Keep in mind these companies have been in business for years and years and have shipped bare root and potted plants for eons. They do know what they're doing and most of them do it very well. They'd be out of business if they couldn't fulfill your planting requirements.

<b>Gardening Budgets and Selection</b>

You can't beat the cost and selection of ordering by mail! Most mail order companies offer plant varieties you'll never find anywhere else. The selections seem endless and I've been amazed what I can grow in New Mexico. Take advantage of fall specials and free shipping and you get a double bang for you buck. For about half of what I spend on a trip to the garden center on a single spring garden binge, I can have more variety and many more plants shipped to me at home.

<b>Get on the Mailing Lists</b>

Make sure you're on the mailing list for the following nurseries at least! You'll get a catologue several times a year. Take it into the garden with you,look around and plan accordingly. Then hop online and place an order or order by mail, but use the online resources for their help with plant combinations and companion planting. They offer great suggestions you may not have thought of before. Remember - pictures will help any gardener no matter how experienced.

About the author: To order catalogues and find this seasons BEST garden specials visit my <a href=""http://www.bulbandseed.com"">garden resource center</a> - My website is at <a href=""http://www.bulbandseed.com"">http://www.bulbandseed.com

Poor Man's Concrete

Author: Liz Norman

Article: Poor Man’s Concrete (c)2005

If you are looking for a way to build a “concrete” patio or walkway and can’t afford the cost using the traditional costly materials, here is an alternative method that works very well in a mild climate –meaning no freezing weather:

Using pressure treated 2x4’s, build a frame approx. 3’-4’ wide and 8’ long. If the area you want to cover is longer than 8’, build an additional frame to cover the length of your project.

If your project is wider than 4’, repeat the above until you have the designated area completely framed in 4’ wide sections.

Level the frame at a slight slant by hard packing dirt under it. This slant allows for water run-off.

Ready to begin preparing the “concrete” at a leisurely pace? Here is what you will need:

·Enough “drive-way” gravel to fill the frame(s). ·Approx. 4-5 bags of regular cement for each 4’x8’ section. ·A flat concrete finishing trowel

·A broom, shovel and wheelbarrow

·A hose with a nozzle that sprays a fine mist

·An old 2’x4 at least 6’ long

1.Starting with your first 4’ wide frame, fill it with gravel. Now level the gravel by running the old 2’x 4’ across the frame.

2. Next, sprinkle the cement as evenly as possible over the leveled gravel. Then use the broom to smooth out the dry cement.

3.Thoroughly mist the dry cement with water. Wait a few minutes for the cement to absorb the water. If it still looks dry, mist it again. 4.When you see the water rising to the top, take the trowel and work the cement by patting it down and smoothing it out, just like real “concrete” finishing. Use ½ circle and patting motions in each direction.

When you are satisfied with the appearance, move on to the next frame and repeat the above. 5.Keep your project well-misted with water over the next couple of days. And, don’t start this project on a hot, sunny day. The slower it takes cement to dry, the better.

You will find your “concrete” project will hold up very well to normal traffic for many years to come. Our 1,000 square ft. project even bared the weight of a slate pool table. And after 25 years of constant foot traffic, was as solid as the day we completed our own “poor man’s concrete” project.

Providing you don’t drive a vehicle over it, yours should too!

About the author:

Liz Norman is a freelance writer with a special interest in helping those on limited budgets achieve their goals.

Looking for <A href=""http://lwvf.com/concrete"" target=blank>additional concrete resources?</A> </P></DIV>

Wednesday, December 27, 2006

A Garden To Attract Hummingbirds

Author: John Sanderson

Article: “Mommy, come see! There are fairies in the garden!”

And so they might have been to the eyes of a five year old who grew up on tales of pixies, elves and fairies. The magical visitor this time, though, was a ruby-throated hummingbird. Hummingbirds have a unique ability to hover in one place by rapidly fluttering their tiny wings which may truly have made them the ‘fairies’ that many people saw hovering around brightly colored flowers.

It’s not difficult to create a garden that will attract hummingbirds, but if you’d like to build a habitat in which they will happily nest and live throughout the northern summer, you need to provide them with more than a sugar-water feeder and a plant or two. An active hummingbird garden doesn’t need to be large, but it will have all of the following key ingredients to attract and keep the attention of nature’s fairies.

Choose nectar producing plants that bloom at different times throughout the spring, summer and autumn.

Flowers are, of course, the key ingredient in attracting hummingbirds to your garden. The tiny birds feed on nectar that is produced by flowers, and seem particularly attracted to plants with trumpet or tubular bright red and orange flowers. Among their particular favorites, though, are rhododendrons, azaleas and rose of Sharon bushes, so the red trumpet isn’t a hard and fast rule. For northern gardens that attract the ruby-throated hummingbird, choose from the list of plants below, making sure that you choose plants that flower at different times during the blooming season to provide food for them throughout the spring, summer and fall.

Spring Bloomers Azaleas, rhododendrons and rose of Sharon bushes make a great ‘background’ for hummingbird gardens. They bloom early in the spring and continue blooming through the early summer. Pink and bright red varieties are favored, but hummingbirds love ALL rose of Sharon varieties.

Summer Bloomers Bleeding hearts and red mountain columbine bloom in the early summer, as do petunias, morning glories, trumpet vines, trumpet honeysuckle, and impatiens, all of which attract hummingbirds. An expanse of shade-dappled impatiens is a powerful attraction for hummingbirds, who are ‘sight’ hunters, finding their feeding grounds by sight.

Autumn Bloomers Butterfly bush, day lilies, garden phlox, bee-balm and impatiens all will keep hummingbirds returning through the autumn and attract late migrators.

Provide a source of water in the hummingbird garden. Unlike larger birds, hummingbirds will seldom take advantage of a bird bath or bowl of water. Instead, they relish cool mists. A garden hose with a misting attachment or a small fountain that can be adjusted to a fine mist will keep them happy.

Create vertical space for hummingbirds to perch and nest in your garden.

Hummingbirds need shelter from predators and small branches for perching and resting (yes, yes, they do perch sometimes!). By choosing a few taller bushes or trees, you can provide both.

A few strategically placed hummingbird feeders will offer an easy treat in your hummingbird garden.

There are dozens of commercially designed hummingbird feeders designed to be attractive to the little wanderers. Choose feeders with bright red accents, and a capacity for about 8 ounces of sugar water. Rather than using one large feeder, place 2-4 of them around your garden, out of sight of each other if possible. Hummingbirds are notoriously territorial. By providing several ‘private’ feeding stations, you’ll increase the number of hummingbirds that you attract.

About the author: This article courtesy of <A HREF=http://www.garden-furniture-guide.com>http://www.garden-furn iture-guide.com</A>

Why you should consider organic gardening

Author: Tony Robinson

Article: Organic gardening is one of the fastest growing facets of gardening, and more and more people are discovering that it is possible to enjoy a beautiful, thriving garden while still keeping the use of chemicals and pesticides to a minimum.

One reason to avoid the use of chemicals and pesticides is that long term use of such chemicals can deplete the soil and leave it unable to sustain further growth. In many cases beds of perennials suddenly stop blooming for no apparent reason, and the culprit is often found to be the overuse of chemical fertilizers, herbicides and pesticides.

Concern for the health of the gardener's family members, pets and the environment as a whole is another reason many people choose organic gardening methods. Runoff from many commercial pesticides and chemical fertilizer can leach into ground water, damage wells, and cause problems with fish ponds and other parts of the landscape.

In addition, a well planted and well landscaped home interior has been shown to improve the value of the home, and when that garden is an organic one its value is further enhanced. A beautiful organic garden can be a great way to provide a cost effective enhancement to any landscape.

Pest control is one of the places where organic gardening can actually be superior to chemical methods. Instead of using harsh pesticides to get rid of garden pests, it is often better and more effective to use beneficial insects to get rid of harmful ones. Harmful insects are often unable to compete once more beneficial insects have been brought in to the organic garden.

One of the most common pests encountered by gardeners, and one of the biggest reasons they use chemical pesticides, is aphids. These common garden pests can be organically controlled by spraying the infested stems, leaves and buds with a diluted mixture of soapy water, then an application of fresh, clear water. This technique has been used by organic gardeners for many years, and it is effective even against heavy infections of aphids.

Selecting the right plants is also important to success as an organic gardener. Choosing the right fertilizer is an important consideration as well, since there are organic equivalents for just about every type of chemical fertilizer. When choosing plants and fertilizers, be sure to research the best plants and organic fertilizers for your own area. If you have an organic gardening club in your area, you may want to join in order to swap tips about the best types of plants and fertilizers.

One great element of any organic garden landscape is a good ground cover. Planting ground covering plants in areas where grass has a hard time taking hold not only enhances the beauty of your home, but it provides better soil drainage and water retention as well. Many homeowners have discovered the power of using native species as natural ground cover.

Flowering vines are another popular centerpiece of many organic gardens. Flowering vines are great for enhancing the beauty of fences, walls, sheds and other structures, since they can easily be trained to grow along these structures.

These any many other plants and flowers can enhance any organic garden and make it the showcase of the community. Growing an organic garden is a great way to protect your home, your family and even the environment.

About the author: Tony Robinson is an international author and webmaster. In his busy life he finds time to ""Smell the Roses"". For geat tips, techniques and articles visit http://www.rose-bloom.com

Planning A Serenity Garden

Author: Jeff Slokum

Article: ""Kiss of the sun for pardon. Song of the birds for mirth. You're closer to God's heart in a garden than any place else on earth."" -- Dorothy Frances Gurney

It’s an oft-quoted (and misquoted! I had to look it up for the exact words) poem. Dorothy Frances Gurney expressed the way that most people feel about their gardens. It is in the garden that we feel the touch of the Divine more than anywhere else. It is the reason that throughout the world, men and women have put aside careers to become gardeners, planters and farmers.

There is more to it than the kiss of the sun and the song of the birds, though. When you garden, you find yourself becoming attuned to the natural rhythms of the earth – the pull of the moon, the promise of the rain, the life-giving warmth of the sun. You find yourself rising early to pluck a few berries with the dew still on them. After dinner, you retire to the garden – not because it needs you, but because you need it.

A true gardener’s garden is never finished. It is a work in progress throughout its life. However beautiful or simple it may be, it never has a sterile ‘landscaped’ feel to it. One can sense the changing of the season from day to day – even from hour to hour. In that light, there is no ‘plan’ for a serenity garden. It is one that simply grows as you do, changing to reflect your favorite colors, the landscapes that make you feel comfortable, the philosophy that brings you peace and comfort this month or this year.

With that said, then, take the rest of this with a grain of salt, and adjust it to your own tastes and pleasures. These are ingredients that go into making the perfect garden for me – your mileage may vary.

Rocks – whether they edge a path, line a walkway, or form the basis for a rock garden, stones and rocks are an integral part of the earth. I know that most gardeners consider them anathema, and will root out every last pebble in the interests of providing ‘good soil’. To me, a garden can not be a garden without rocks. I use them to build raised beds, plant shade-loving ground covers beneath the overhang of large boulders, and embed them in the earth to form pathways between rows of shrubs and flowers.

Water – The sound of running water is like balm to a worried mind. If you’re lucky enough to be able to build a backyard pond, you have my everlasting envy. For the rest of us, there are garden hoses and sprinklers to bring water into the garden. Watering time is easily my favorite time of the day.

A Nearby Bench – Enjoying your garden is the reward for your labor. Whether your ‘bench’ is a large boulder or your back porch, be sure there is somewhere to sit close by so you can bask in the scent of earth and growing things.

About the author: This article courtesy of <A HREF=http://www.best-florists.net>http://www.best-florists.net</A >

More Than Just Flowers - Fun Garden Accessories

Author: Ryan Larson

Article: Flowers and plants are rightly the central attraction of your garden – but they needn’t be the only one. Garden ‘accessories’ can add character and fun to your garden as well as serving various useful purposes. From sculpted row markers and border fences to fully-functional fountains and ponds, here’s what some of the best-dressed gardens are wearing this spring and summer.

Borders One of the easiest – and most affordable – ways to define your garden space is with border fencing by the foot or yard. There are many styles of borders available at your local garden and home supply store, from white wire fences to elaborate plastic sculptured moldings designed to be pushed into the ground on garden stakes.

Row Markers and Signs My first garden – courtesy of my grandmother – had row markers that were made by the simple expedient of pushing a popsicle stick into the ground and sliding the seed packet over the top. Not terribly elegant, or for that matter, durable. Garden supply and novelty shops feature a huge variety of row markers and ‘Don’t Step On The Flowers!’ signs in styles that range from whimsical plastic sculptures of vegetables to elegantly hand crafted iron markers.

Garden Gnomes and Lawn Toys Okay, so maybe they’re a little tacky, but they sure are fun! Pink flamingoes, garden gnomes, and grandma fannies are only a few examples of the silly, playful garden accessories that can find a home in your garden. Pinwheels, garden streamers and windsocks all can add color and whimsy to your gardening. Who said gardening had to be so serious?

Birdbaths and Pedestals Birdbaths are a great way to invite birds into your garden. Whether set into the ground as a small ‘pond’ or on a pedestal, they can add a touch of old world elegance to a shrubbery or foliage garden that will benefit from the pollination efforts of your feathered friends.

Benches Why have a garden if not to enjoy it? Plan your garden with benches along the paths or at the center of a clearing. Garden benches are easy to find at home supply stores and department stores and can be had for as little as $29.99. Whether you choose cast iron, resin, wood, or stone, a garden bench is almost a must-have accessory for the well-dressed garden.

Trellises Decorative trellises and arches do more than serve as supports for climbing plants and vines. They can be a beautiful accent on their own. Whether you choose a simple iron fan trellis in a corner of the garden, or build an elaborate arbor or gazebo to support roses and ivy, they’ll add a grace note of natural beauty and add to the enjoyment of your garden.

Fountains and Ponds The ultimate accessory for any garden to have has got to be its own pond or fountain. Even small spaces can sport running water with a concealed circulating pump and a nearby power source. A trickling waterfall over rocks or a full-sized pond complete with Koi can both bring a measure of satisfaction and serenity to your garden.

About the author: This article courtesy of <A HREF=http://www.flower-master.com>http://www.flower-master.com</A >

Tuesday, December 26, 2006

Herbs For A Spaghetti Garden

Author: Tim Henry

Article: Herbs are one of the delightful pleasures of life. They add flavor to your food, scent to the air and beauty to your garden. In colonial times, no home was complete without an herb garden for the lady of the house to use in her kitchen, and it wasn’t unusual for those herb gardens to be separated by use – savory herbs, tea herbs, medicinal herbs. That’s a tradition that’s made a comeback in many modern gardens.

One of the more popular types of kitchen gardens is a spaghetti garden. Oregano, basil, garlic, bay and parsley are such easy to grow plants that it’s a pity for anyone to use dried and bottled herbs if they have a sunny patch of ground or a window-box. A few square feet of garden space can easily yield all the herbs that you’ll need for delicious Italian meals. They’re even easy enough to grow in a sunny window for year round use.

Bay Laurel

Bay leaves add a piquant hint of spice to stews, soups and especially spaghetti sauce. The bay laurel is a small tree that grows slowly – about a foot per year – making it eminently suitable for growing in a container. Unless you live in a mild climate zone (where the temperatures don’t drop below 25 degrees in the winter), you’ll do best to keep the tree in a pot and bring it indoors during the winter.

Basil

Basil is an annual, but it seeds itself so easily that I’ve never had to buy another after planting my first year. There are many varieties of basil, but all grow fast and require frequent pinching back to keep them from growing leggy and tall. To harvest: when the plants have reached about 6-8 inches tall, you can begin harvesting. Simply use your thumb and forefinger to pinch off the top 1/3 of the plant, just above a leaf intersection. Be sure to pinch off any flower buds before they go to seed. Six to eight plants will provide enough basil to make pesto for the entire neighborhood.

Garlic

Garlic is possibly the easiest plant in the world to grow. Simply break apart a clove of garlic (yes, right from the grocery store!), and plant the cloves about 4 inches apart, 2-4 inches deep in light soil. Water lightly, and watch them grow. Harvest when tips of leaves turn brown – do NOT let them flower. To harvest: dig up the bulbs, and use them. In the interests of keeping a fresh supply going, plant one or two cloves from each bulb!

Parsley

Parsley is easily the most used herb in the world. It comes in both flat (Italian) and curly varieties, and complements the flavor of everything from delicate sauces to hearty stews. It’s often used as a garnish on plates, or chopped and added to soups, dressings and salads. It adds vitamins and color, and subtly brings out the flavor of other ingredients in the meal. The parsley plant is a biennial, flowering in its second season. It prefers a little shade on a hot sunny day, and should be kept well watered to avoid wilting and drying. To harvest: pinch back woody older stems all the way to the base, allowing new leaves and branches to grow.

Oregano

A perennial ground cover plant, oregano is a prolific grower that can send out shoots that grow up to six feet in a single season. If encouraged with pruning and bunching, oregano can grow into a small border plant. It prefers light, thin soil and lots of sun, so keep it on the south side of your garden. Harvesting can start when the plants reach 4-5 inches. Simply pinch back as you would basil. The young leaves are the most flavorful part of the plant, and are actually considerably stronger dried than fresh. To dry, lay the harvested leaves out on newspaper or drying screens in the sun until the leaves crumble easily. Dried oregano will retain its flavor for months.

About the author: This article courtesy of <A HREF=http://www.florists-guide.com>http://www.florists-guide.com< /A>

Butterfly Gardens For Your Region

Author: Samuel Murray

Article: I grew up in the city surrounded by asphalt and concrete sidewalks, brick buildings and vacant lots – but there was no lack of nature or butterflies in my life. Amid the sprawl of a decaying urban landscape, the overgrown vacant lots choked with ‘weeds’ attracted so many butterflies that they would perch on my shoulders and hands if I was still enough. These ‘accidental’ butterfly gardens provided all the ingredients that butterflies require to congregate en masse. These same ingredients can turn your garden into a fairy wonderland of fluttering wings and color.

Over the past thirty years, butterfly gardening has become popular, both to attract the beautiful travelers and to help preserve species of butterflies that were dwindling due to human encroachment into their natural habitats. If you’re planning a butterfly garden, it’s important to keep in mind that there is no one recipe for a successful garden. Butterfly species that are indigenous to different areas are attracted to different types of plants. In order to foster butterflies, you’ll need to know the butterfly species that are found in your area, and provide them with plants that are favored food sources for adult butterflies as well as those plants that they prefer for laying their eggs and nourishing larva.

There are, however, some standards that apply to all butterfly gardens. Wherever you live and whatever butterflies you hope to attract, you’ll attract more of them if you follow a few simple basics:

Plant flowers in clumps and drifts. Butterflies will flock to large expanses of flowers in similar colors that bloom at the same time rather than to single plants with just a few blooms. A carpet of violets, a sea of buttercups or a wide open field full of Queen Anne’s Lace is sure to be visited by dozens of butterflies.

Butterfly gardens need to provide both sun and shade. Like all insects, butterflies are cold-blooded creatures. They thrive on warm sun, and will bask on flat rocks or perch for long minutes on the branches of a high bush in the sunlight. At the same time, they need shade and shelter when the sun is too hot, or on cool, cloudy days. An area that gets bright sun for at least 4-6 hours per day is the best spot for a butterfly garden, but don’t forget to include landscaping details that offer shade.

Butterflies love puddles. Add a sunken birdbath to your garden, or provide a cluster of rocks that traps rain water to give butterflies a cool spot where they can indulge their love of standing water.

Regional Butterfly Species and Plants Different species of butterflies frequent different parts of the country. You can find more information about which plants are best for your area at a local nursery, or the agricultural extension unit at a local university. For quick reference, though, here’s a short list of butterflies and plants that they love by region.

Northeastern N. America

From W. Virginia up through Quebec and as far west as Indiana and Ohio

Butterflies: Swallowtails (black, spicebush and tiger), Cabbage White, Pearl Crescent, Monarch, Buckeye, Red-spotted Purple, Great Spangled Fritillary

Plants: Milkweed (monarchs), fennel, parsley, carrot and dill (black swallowtails), spicebush (spicebush swallowtails), nasturtium (cabbage white), violets (great spangled fritillary), willow, birch, beech, aspen, wild cherry (many species)

Nectar Flowers: Buddleia, Heliotrope, Lantana, Milkweed, Mint, Pentas, Porterweed, Verbena and Zinnias.

Southeastern U.S. Butterflies: Swallowtails (black, spicebush, tiger and pipevine), Buckeye, Pearl Crescent, Monarch, Cloudless Sulphur, Gulf Fritillary, Red-spotted purple

Plants: Fennel, carrot, spicebush, dill, parsley, pipevine (swallowtails), wild cherry, poplar, sassafras, passiflora, wild senna, asters, milkweed Nectar Flowers: same as northeast

Southern Florida Butterflies: Polydamas swallowtail, giant swallowtail, zebra longwing, Julia, gulf fritillary, orange-barred sulphur, cloudless sulphur, monarch, queen

Plants: milkweed, wild senna, passiflora, wild lime, citrus, dutchman’s pipe

Midwest Butterflies: Swallowtails, Buckeye, Cloudless Sulphur, Pearl Crescent, Cabbage White, Monarch, Viceroy

Plants: Pipevines, fennel, carrot, dill, parsley, violets, nasturtium, wild senna, asters, snapdragon, verbena, cabbage, milkweed

New Mexico, Texas Butterflies: Patch, Hackberry, Monarch, Pearl Crescent, Question Mark, Buckeye, Cloudless Sulphur, Gulf Fritillary

Plants: sunflowers, passiflora, hackberry, wild senna, milkweed, nettles, asters

Arizona, California, Nevada Butterflies: Western tiger swallowtail, anise swallowtail, two-tailed swallowtail, black swallowtail, pale swallowtail, pipevine swallowtail, cloudless sulphur, west coast lady, Monarch, gulf fritillary

Plants: Fennel, carrots, parsley, dill, wild senna, wild plums, buckthorns, wild cherries, wild lilacs, hollyhocks, ashes, willows, aspens, poplars

Western States and Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta Butterflies: Western tiger swallowtail, pale swallowtail, cabbage white, striped hairstreak, Wiedemeyer’s Admiral, mourning cloak, monarch, great spangled fritillary, painted lady

Plants: wild plums and cherries, aspen, willow, poplar, sunflowers, buckthorns, wild lilacs, nasturtium, blueberries, ashes, violet, chokecherry.

About the author: This article courtesy of <A HREF=http://www.flowers-guide.net>http://www.flowers-guide.net</A >

The Latest Flower Trends in Interior Decorating for your Home & Office

Author: Janna Hagan

Article: In this time period, people are as busy as ever. Mom's and dad's working overtime can be very hectic and hard to handle at some points. Include the kids after school activities, family and work stress and you have a full schedule to fulfill. That's why many people rarely think or have time to decorate and take care of their homes. Flower can be a great way to decorate any room in the house. A simple flower arrangement or vase can make the room warm and inviting to guests in your home. This years flower trends are modern, elegant and simple. Even if you are not gifted in designing and creating professional flower arrangements, today's flower trends are geared for those who like ""laid-back luxury,"" yet simple and easy to create arrangements. If your style is stylish, modern and simple, then these year's trends are perfect for your liking.

Studies show that flowers can make anyone smile and lift their mood and spirits. People who has bounties of flowers in their homes or an exquisite garden usually have less bad days. After a hard day of work, most people would like to relax. Flower in any room can be noticed. Although new trends come along each year, the main idea of flowers stay around for years. If you are at a loss for knowing what the current flower tips are, then read on for ideas.

1. The Modern Look The modern look is becoming very popular in young families and students. Wall color, furniture and carpeting are already become more ""modernized."" Flowers are the same way. A single flower in a long, tall vase looks very good in kitchens and living rooms. A single rose, orchid or daisy looks like a bouquet in itself if paired with a decorative vase or candles. White flowers are very plain, yet elegant. 2. Country Cottage Soft purples, pinks and yellows flowers are all included in this theme. Many people love this look because of it's relaxing idea. These type of flowers look good in a low, round tabletop centerpiece. This arrangement is good for creating a relaxing feeling for a room. Creating a small arrangement looks better on a dining or eating table. Remember, uniqueness is what interests your guests.

3. Summer Colors If you are more of the wild type, bright colors are for you. Summer and spring are great season to brighten up your home with flowers. Even during the winter months, flowers can remind you of the beautiful summer days. Bigger arrangements and centerpieces can look alright with these type of flowers, just remember not to over do it. Exciting flower colors can look great, but if they are all in one basket, it takes away from the rest of your home. 4. Plants Plants are always widely used in offices and homes. Cactus and exotic type plants are very unique for any decorating. If you are interested in exotic style plants, be aware that they will need extra support if they are not used to your climate. Read the instructions you receive when you purchase the plant. Bathrooms, kitchens, living rooms and dining rooms are all perfect for displaying your plant collections.

Flowers are defiantly true nature's beauty. Even indoors, in an office or room space, flowers can bring out your best personality and taste. I hope you are able to choose a theme that you can use in all parts of your home and office. You personal space should be about you. Your flowers can be an excellent addition in interior designing.

About the author: Janna Hagan is the webmaster for http://www.flower-delivery-service-online.com. Great tips and information on roses, silk flowers, bouquets and arrangements. For more information on flower delivery online, please visit http://www.flower-delivery-service-online.com.

Monday, December 25, 2006

Patios And Garden Pavers

Author: Matthew Anthony

Article:

Is your concrete or asphalt <a href=http://www.paving.gb.com/Driveways.html>driveway</a> an eyesore? Do you need to create an attractive retaining wall? Although most people use garden pavers to create <a href=http://www.patios-and-decking.co.uk>patios</a>, driveways and other hardscaping elements are often created using garden pavers, as well. </p>

More and more homeowners are tearing up their cracked and stained concrete or asphalt driveways. These people are turning their driveways from an eyesore to a focal point by laying brick, concrete, or interlocking pavers. They often match the driveway pavers to the pavers used on walkways and patios to give the impression that the driveway is just an extension of the outdoor living area. </p>

Before you use standard pavers for your driveway, be sure to check the manufacturer's weight recommendations. Some pavers are too fragile to stand up to the constant stress of automobiles driving back and forth over them. Driveway pavers are manufactured specifically to handle constant wear and tear from automobiles. Before using your driveway, be sure that you use a sealing fluid on the pavers. Oil leaks, gas spills, and dirt are almost impossible to remove from unsealed pavers. </p>

Building retaining walls used to involve days of hard labor. It is hard to create the proper angle needed so that the wall does not collapse and building a stacked stone wall is like assembling a large puzzle. However, with the advent of interlocking pavers, it is no longer impossible for inexperienced handymen to quickly create strong and attractive retaining walls. </p>

Special interlocking stones have been created specifically for building interlocking retaining walls. When the pavers interlock, the wall is automatically set back at the proper angle to avoid over stressing the wall. Of course, homeowners also still use concrete and brick pavers to create stacked retaining walls. Interlocking retaining wall pavers can also be used to create attractive matching step risers. </p>

Creating a stepping stone path is probably the most popular use for garden pavers. Stepping stones are easy to lay down in tight spots. You can set pavers into place one at a time instead of digging up the entire area as you would have to do if you were laying a walkway. Stepping stones can be used separately, as well. Although you can use standard concrete or brick pavers as stepping stones, concrete stepping stones with a pebbled surface give people who are stepping from paver to paver added traction.</p>

No matter which <a href=http://www.paving.gb.com>pavers</a> you choose, don't forget that the project you create with them will be the foundation for your garden and a backdrop for your plants. </p>

About the author: Matthew Anthony is a regular contributor to gardening sites such as <a href=http://www.paving.gb.com>paving</a> and <a href=http://www.patios-and-decking.co.uk>patios and decking</a>.

Tips for a successful garden

Author: Tony Robinson

Article: Gardening methods are as varied as the gardeners who use them, and it seems like every gardener has his or her own preferred method of achieving a beautiful garden. Many beginning gardeners find that the best way to learn how to garden is directly from an accomplished garden. One of the best ways to find those master gardeners is to join your local garden club. These clubs can be invaluable for the beginning gardener, as the members are able to swap tips and tricks picked up through years of successful gardening.

The importance of proper watering One of the keys to a successful garden is to water the plants properly. A weekly deep watering is preferable to a daily spray with the hose, as most plants prefer a thorough but deep watering to a frequent more shallow source of water. One great watering method many gardeners use is a soaker hose. A soaker hose is a great way to make sure the roots of the plant get sufficient water.

Grow your own compost Another thing many experienced gardeners have picked up is the importance of creating their own compost. Using a compost bin is a great way to recycle household waste and turn it into rich organic soil that will be useful for every plant. Items that can be successfully composted include leaves, kitchen scraps and other organic materials. A home compost bin is a great way to reduce the overflow of landfills while helping your garden grow its best.

Composting can also be a great way to balance the pH level of soil that is too acidic or too alkaline. High quality humus, which is the last step in the compost process, is a great, completely natural way to rebalance the pH of soil that has been damaged due to past neglect or chemical use. In addition, a good quality humus contains important nutrients such as iron, phosphorus and manganese, which are often lacking in commercially available fertilizers.

Cultivation methods After the flowers have been planted, it is best to avoid further deep cultivation. Digging too deeply or too often in the soil can damage the roots of the plants, disturb valuable microorganisms, dry the soil and bring weeds to the surface. It is best to cultivate deeply when preparing the flower bed, then to leave things in place after the flowers have been planted.

Using color in the garden landscape The beauty of flowers lies greatly in their bright, vibrant colors, and flowers can be used to enhance any landscape. When choosing flowers for the garden and landscape, it is best to choose colors that highlight and enhance those in the landscape. For instance, combining bright, vibrant colors like reds and oranges with more soothing pastels can provide a striking contrast for any area of the garden.

In addition, it has become increasingly popular to combine the home garden with other landscape elements like ponds and waterfalls. These water elements provide a beautiful retreat from the stresses of everyday life.

Landscaping with flowers can even improve the value of your home. Studies have shown that a well landscaped exterior can enhance the resale value of the home, as well as provide a beautiful treat for the senses.

About the author: Tony Robinson is an international author and webmaster. In his busy life he finds time to ""Smell the Roses"". For geat tips, techniques and articles visit http://www.rose-bloom.com

Sunday, December 24, 2006

Roses - Creating Beautiful Cut Roses

Author: Bambi Coker

Article: Roses – Creating Beautiful Cut Roses

Many gardeners like to enjoy their roses twice — first in the garden, then indoors as cut flowers. By choosing the right roses, cutting them at the proper time of day, and conditioning them after cutting, you can enjoy your cut roses for the longest possible time — up to five days or more after cutting.

When to Cut Roses In general, the more petals a rose has the slower it will open and the longer it will last. So, the best roses to use as cut flowers are the fully double varieties. Flowers with fewer petals open quickly and need to be replaced more often. Old garden and shrub roses generally wilt rapidly because their petals lack the substance (thickness and sturdiness) of modern roses and therefore don’t make good cut flowers.

In addition to the form of a rose, you should consider its blooming stage. A rose will last longer if it is cut when the sepals have separated from the bud and have turned downward, and when the bud has softened but before the stamens are visible. If you squeeze the bud and it is still hard, wait a day or two before cutting it or it may not open after it is cut. Roses should be cut from a well-watered plant, late in the afternoon when the sugar and nutrient content of the plant is highest. This provides the bloom with ample energy to develop and open normally, and to stay open longer without wilting. During hot weather, when there is chance that a flower may be dehydrated by late afternoon, water the plant well several hours before cutting.

How to Cut Roses Using pruning shears or flower-cutting shears cut the stem at a 45-degree angle, no shorter than just above the first five-leaflet leaf below the flower. You can cut a stem as long as you like, provided that at least two sets of leaves are left on the main stem to act as food producers for future growth and flowering. Carry a bucket of water with you into the garden so that you can place the cut stems in the water immediately. The flowers will last much longer if the uptake of water is not interrupted for too long and the stems don’t dry out. It’s all right to submerge the leaves temporarily as they too will absorb moisture.

Although you will not harm a plant if you cut off all its flowers at one time, you may want to leave a few on the plant for garden color. Cutting roses, whether new or faded, encourages the plants to grow and re-bloom quickly.

After you have cut the roses re-cut the stems at a slant with the stem underwater to permit maximum water absorption.

How to Condition Roses Place the bucket of water containing the cut roses in a cool, dark place, like in the basement, to allow the roses to become “conditioned” before arranging them in a vase.

Conditioning roses allows them to get used to being detached from the plants and slows down the respiratory rate of the leaves. Leave them for at least several hours; preferably overnight. You can condition cut flowers in a refrigerator as long as the refrigerator is intended only for roses and not for food. Many types of fruit stored in a refrigerator release ethylene gas, a ripening agent that causes cut flowers to open prematurely.

Water for cut flowers is best if it is slightly acidic because acid breaks up air bubbles in water by neutralizing the carbon dioxide gas. Air bubbles can clog capillaries in the stem and prevent water from reaching the flowers and foliage. Water also travels more quickly up a stem when the water is acidic. If you're not sure whether your water is acidic, ask your water supplier. If it is not acidic, add lemon juice to acidify it.

You should not use artificially softened water; it contains sodium, which is toxic to plants. In most cases, use cold water; it slows down the respiratory rate of the leaves. However, if the flowers have wilted because they have been out of water too long or because the stems were not cut underwater soon enough and the stem ends have become clogged, hot water will revive them faster than cold water. The stems absorb hot water more quickly.

How to Prepare Roses for a Vase Before placing the roses in a vase, remove any leaves and thorns that will be below the water after arranging, because these will quickly disintegrate, foul the water, and shorten the life of the cut flowers. Thorns can be snapped off by hand or with a special thorn-stripping tool sold by florist supply stores. Then clean the remaining foliage with soap and water if necessary to remove dirt or spray residue, and make the leaves shine by rubbing with a paper towel, a soft cloth, or a nylon stocking. If any of the leaves are ripped or chewed, they can be manicured with small scissors.

More tips: If the roses you have picked are fragrant, handle them gently. The petals of fragrant roses have more scent-emitting glands than do those of less-fragrant kinds, and they therefore tend to bruise more easily.

To lengthen the life of your cut roses, always use a clean container for the flowers, and add a floral preservative to the water. Because they are acidic, contain sugar, and include a bacteria-retarding agent, floral preservatives provide some nutrients and restrain the growth of bacteria that will shorten the life of the flowers. These preservatives can be purchased at a flower shop. If you can't buy one, mix any clear citrus-based soft drink containing sugar with three parts water; or mix 2 tablespoons lemon juice, 1 tablespoon sugar, and l/2 teaspoon household bleach in 1 quart of water. Keep the container filled with water to reduce the chance that it will evaporate or be consumed by the roses. If possible, change the water daily, re-cutting the stems underwater each time. Or check the level every day and add water as needed. To prolong the life of cut roses, keep cool and away from drafts, air-conditioners, radiators, and full sun. Display the splendor of single rose stems in simple vases. When enjoying blooms from first-year roses, it's usually better to cut short stems.

Good Roses for Long-Stemmed Cutting Barbra Streisand ('WEKquaneze') Bride's Dream ('KORoyness') Crystalline ('ARObipy') Elina ('DICjana') Jardins de Bagatelle ('MEImafris') Kardinal (KORlingo') Love & Peace ('BALpeace') Moonstone ('WEKcryland') New Zealand ('MACgenev') Peter Mayle ('MEIzincaro') 'Royal Highness' Toulouse Lautrec ('MEIrevolt') Valencia ('KOReklia') Veteran's Honor (‘JACopper')

Bambi Coker http://www.RosesSecretsRevealed.com © Bambi Coker All Rights Reserved

About the author: I am a Rose Enthusiast

Gardening Fun With Children

Author: Shaan Randow

Article: Do you recall your very first plant? Your first garden? Perhaps it was the geranium seeds you planted in a milk carton or Styrofoam cup as part of a class project. Perhaps, if you were lucky, it was your own corner of your parent’s garden, staked out and set up just for the plants that you chose. My own garden memories include experiments with watermelon seeds (under the back porch where no one would step on them – and where, with no sun, they never grew), orange seeds (the ones in the garden never sprouted. The one I started in a paper cup on a window sill still grows in my mother’s back yard) and packets of all sorts of flower seeds.

Instilling a love of gardening in children gives them a lifelong gift on which they can draw – for pleasure, for sustenance and to add creativity and joy to their lives. There are so many garden-related activities and experiments that you can do with a garden. It boggles the mind that so many resources and references to gardening with children concentrate on ‘building a sunflower house’ when there are so many more creative ways to introduce children to the pure fun of gardening.

Packets of seeds that are labeled ‘kid gardens’ are one way to go about it – they do usually contain seeds for plants that grow quickly, at least in grownup terms. For a child, though, ten days is an eternity. Instead, take a trip to the local nursery with your child and let them pick one or two flats of flowers already in bloom. Invest a few dollars in a garden trowel and fork, and help your child transplant the seedlings into his own flower bed. That’s the sort of work/reward ratio that a child understands: one afternoon of digging and planting equals a flower garden. As the weeks go on, you’ll find their interest is maintained because they’re into the FUN part of gardening – watering, picking, and enjoying.

When they’re ready to start from seed, include them in early spring seed starting. Instead of buying plants, let them plant them inside to be ready to transplant in a few weeks. Take a tip from science teachers everywhere – plant several flats in regular trays, but plant one very special ‘demonstrator’. Fill a glass with soil, poke seeds down into the dirt against the side of the glass and put it on a sunny windowsill. Your child will have the fascination of watching what happens underground as his seedlings grow – the seed pod splitting, the roots spreading, and finally, the miracle of the first tiny shoots pressing upward toward the light and heat.

There are other very easy gardening projects that yield quick results for children, projects that have the bonus of being ‘winter-ready’. Cut up a potato, making sure that each chunk contains at least one eye. Plant it in a cup of dirt with the eye facing up – and watch it grow. You can do the same with an onion – just bury the onion in soil with the crown showing. It will only take days for the shoots to turn green and begin growing.

For more fun gardening ideas for kids, pick up a science activity book. You’ll find a world of growing and gardening experiments that children can try, including the ever popular ‘cucumber in a bottle’ trick.

About the author: This article courtesy of <A HREF=http://www.floral-world.net>http://www.floral-world.net</A>

Building A Container Water Garden

Author: Steve Wilcott

Article: Once you’ve chosen a spot for your container water garden – remember, 6 or more hours of direct sunlight a day, no overhanging trees, and a nearby water source (and power source if you’ll be using a circulating pump for a waterfall) – you get to the fun part. Most home and garden supply store chains carry all the materials you need to create small ponds, including plastic liners – but you’re only limited by your imagination and a few basic rules in choosing a container for your water garden.

It must be easy to drain. It must be non-porous. It must be deep enough to support the plants you want to grow.

I’ve seen water gardens that use everything from old bathtubs to an assortment of terracotta pots (with plastic liners) to large baskets (also with plastic liners).

For a container water garden, you won’t actually be planting the plants in the bottom of the ‘pond’. Instead, each plant will be planted in its own separate pot and submerged in the water.

Assemble your equipment You’ll need your containers, plants, bricks or terracotta pots, gravel, heavy soil, aquatic plant fertilizer tablets and a garden hose.

Pot your plants If they’re not already in suitable pots, you’ll need to pot your plants. Do not use potting soil, vermiculite or peat moss – all of which will wash out of the pots and foul the water. Instead, you want a very heavy, mud-clay like soil. Fill the pot 2/3 full with soil. Push a fertilizer tablet into the soil, then carefully spread the roots of the plant over the surface of the dirt. Add a few inches of dirt and lightly tamp it down, then cover with an inch or so of pea gravel. Repeat until all of your plants are potted.

Arrange your plants in the container This is where the bricks come in. The tops of the plant pots should be no more than a few inches below the surface of the water. Stack bricks, upended terracotta pots or construction blocks in the container and place pots on top of them to vary the heights of the plants.

Add pump for fountain or waterfall if using one. If you’re adding a fountain or a waterfall, situate the pump per the manufacturer’s directions.

Fill with water.

Using the garden hose, fill your container with water until the plant pots are submerged under a few inches of water. If you ‘fill from the bottom’ by dropping the hose into the bottom of the container and letting the water level rise, you’ll reduce the chance of disturbing the soil and gravel in your plants. Enjoy.

Don’t forget that the point of the exercise was to have a lovely, cool water garden to enjoy. Make sure that you place a bench or comfortable sitting rock nearby where you can enjoy the beauty of your own miniature pond every day.

About the author: This article courtesy of <A HREF=http://www.flowers-guide.org>http://www.flowers-guide.org</A >

Saturday, December 23, 2006

Cut Flower Gardening For Beautiful Bouquets

Author: Terry Lowery

Article: Imagine a never-ending supply of beautiful flowers for your home, bouquets and arrangements to give to friends, flowers to pluck at will for gifts, get-well visits, anniversaries and birthdays. By planting a garden stocked with flowers that happily give up their blooms for your pleasure, you can have fresh flower arrangements in every room in your home all throughout the spring and summer.

To create your own bouquet garden, start with a sunny spot in your yard. A garden spot that gets 6 to 8 hours of direct sun a day is ideal. It should be within easy reach for watering, since a cut flower garden will need daily watering during any dry spells. You’ll also want to design it to make it easy for you to reach all the flowers in it, so a raised bed that can be approached on four sides is perfect. If you decide to plant against a fence or as a border, make sure that you can get to all the plants without stepping on others by putting in footpaths or trenches for walking.

The best way to start your cut flower garden is with bulbs planted in the autumn. Daffodils and tulips are among the most popular spring bouquet flowers. By getting them in the ground in the autumn, you’ll be able to start cutting early in the spring.

Some more unusual spring-flowering bulbs that make gorgeous cut flowers include:

Giant flowering onion – Grows 3-4 feet tall, with huge purple blooms. Great as a back border in a cut flower garden. Blossoms from mid-spring through early summer

Windflower – also known as anemone, with daisy like deep pink and white flowers, booms through midsummer

Crocus – blooms in early spring, though there are varieties that bloom through autumn

Hyacinth – Tall clusters of blossoms that are stunning in arrangements. Pink, blue, purple and white, they grow up to 12 inches tall. Bloom in early to mid-summer from fall planting.

Grape Hyacinth- Purple flowers that bloom in autumn and remain green throughout the winter—although it’s dormant in the summer.

Early in the spring, you can start planting gladiolus. These huge, showy blooms are a mainstay of cut flower arrangements, and come in just about every color imaginable. Gladiolus bulbs can be planted as early as two weeks before the last frost. If you plant a new set of gladiolus every two weeks, you’ll have cut flowers from early summer all the way through the first frost.

Roses are an entire subject of their own, but they deserve special mention when discussing cut flower gardens. Rambling and climbing varieties of roses are especially suited to cut flower gardens, putting out masses of blooms and responding to cutting with even more flowers. Trail a rambling rose along a wooden fence rail and you’ll have sweet-smelling roses for your bedroom dresser all summer long.

Also in early spring, you can plant your annuals. Snapdragons, cosmos and zinnias all bloom at different times during the summer, which will extend your ‘bouquet season’ into the fall.

Don’t forget to include ‘filler’ flowers in your cut flower garden. Foliage grasses and flowers like alyssum, baby’s breath, and Queen Anne’s Lace can fill spaces in your bouquets and add a lacy, delicate touch to a vase full of flowers.

About the author: This article courtesy of <A HREF=http://www.about-flowers.com>http://www.about-flowers.com</A >

Love to garden but short on money? Here's 10 money saving ideas.

Author: Jan Money

Article: Copy-write 2005 Jan Money.

A great perk of organic gardening is finding different ways to achieve the same or improved result.

Many items that are normally binned can be of great use to the outdoor enthusiast. Here are ten ideas that won’t cost you anything.

1.Food leftovers: All leftover food is to be composted. Composting is becoming quite a thing to do, and special composting bins can be bought or even made quite easily. There are many different stories of what to do and each person will find the way that suits them. Keeping the temperature quite warm is the key to success. If you need quick results then just keep chucking it on the top and then just pull some out of the bottom of the heap, then sieve it and the compost will be ready to use for seeds and small plants. 2.Hedge cuttings: Instead of ordinary composting or burning it on the bonfire, see if you can get a hold of an electric garden muncher.

This takes branches of up to one inch thick and you just put them into a hole in the machine and it munches it up into little chips. These are great for keeping the moisture in the soil, so just spread them around the base of shrubs and fruit trees to control the temperature of the ground.

3.Decorating trays: Keep all roller paint trays and anything similar to use as seed trays. Get a pen and make some holes in the bottom of the tray for drainage. Add a little vermiculite or small pieces of gravel and fill with seed compost.

4.Thrown-out carpets, old cardboard boxes, and other bits and bobs can be put over the vegetable plot in Autumn to prevent those early spring weeds from coming up. Spread over the whole area and weigh down with rocks, lift off on a sunny spring day a few days before you want to work on it.

5.Recycle glass jars: One’s with sealable lids are the best for storing seeds, peas and beans until next year. After cleaning the jars, make sure they are totally dry by popping them into a warm oven before storing your seeds. Try and collect dark coloured jars, or wrap paper around clear jars to prevent light damage to the seeds.

6.Yoghurt cartons: In fact all dessert pots are great for re-potting seedlings. Again, make a hole in the bottom, put a little fine gravel or vermiculite and then fill with compost or soil.

7.Metal coat hangers: Make little cloches with old wire coat hangers. Make them into a square and then put the hook in the soil push down until the curve rests upon the top of the soil. Put another one a small distance away to make the two ends of the cloche. Then chuck over a sheet of plastic and weigh down the corners of it with rocks.

8.Lolly sticks: These make great row tags in your greenhouse rows or seed trays. They don’t last indefinitely but they are really good for writing the names of seeds on.

9.Aluminium bottle stops: Keep these from milk or juice bottles and coloured foil around drinks bottles. String together with cotton to make a bird scarer and put on fruit bushes before the birds start munching on the fruit.

10. Transparent plastic: These can be placed over a plant in cold weather to protect from frost damage.

For more info go to:http://www.gardeningsupply.info/articles

About the author: Jan Money is a freelance writer from Poole, in the UK and has been writing gardening articles since 2005.

For all your gardening needs and supplies: http://www.gardeningsupply.info/