Thursday, January 31, 2008

Trees in the Home Landscape

Author: http://www.home-and-garden-decor.net

Article: Trees add so much to the home landscape! They provide shade, clean air, habitat for wildlife, value to your property, and even memories.

If your yard does not have any trees at the moment, you may want to consider planting some. Studies have shown that trees and landscaping add value to your property. Even if you do not intend to sell your property, trees can provide years of enjoyment. If you have trees in your yard, check to see that they are healthy. If they are near the end of their life expectancy or show signs of decline, you may want to plant new trees that will become established before the old trees are removed.

If properly located and planted, trees can help control energy costs. A large shade tree planted on the southwest side of the house can provide cooling shade in the summer, helping reduce air conditioning costs. Once the leaves drop in the fall, the winter sun is free to warm your house on cold winter days. Evergreen trees, planted to block cold winter winds, can help reduce winter heating costs.

Have you wondered what you could do to reduce greenhouse gases and address global warming? Planting trees will help! One of the greenhouse gases causing the most concern is carbon dioxide. Plants take this gas out of the air and use it in photosynthesis. Carbon is stored in the wood and living tissues of trees. When leaves fall and are composted, carbon is added to the soil. This improves the soil for plant growth and stores more of the carbon in the form of soil organic matter. Carbon can be stored for hundreds of years in the trunks of trees or in the form of lumber, furniture, and other wood products. By planting trees in your yard, you can help reduce greenhouse gases.

Trees also provide shelter and food for a variety of wildlife. While installing bird feeders will help attract birds to your yard, providing them with nearby trees and shrubs to escape danger, build nests, and obtain food, will be even more effective. Squirrels and other small mammals use trees for nesting sites and food sources. When selecting trees, consider what food value they may offer to the wildlife in your community.

Trees can offer years of enjoyment. Planting trees and watching them grow can be part of your family's memories. Consider planting a tree to commemorate a milestone in your family's life. While raking leaves may seem like a chore as you get older, jumping in piles of leaves can be a treat for children. Hanging a swing, building a tree house, or simply relaxing under the shade of a tree on a hot summer day can be a memorable experience.

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About the author: None

Wednesday, January 30, 2008

Choosing Garden Furniture

Author: Matthew Anthony

Article:

No matter how pleasant a garden is, it is not being enjoyed to its full extent if there is no where for visitors to sit and admire the beauty of the garden. Luckily, few gardeners are willing to sacrifice design for comfort and with the wide choice of <a href=""http://www.furniture-gardens.co.uk"">garden furniture</a> available today, it is rare to find gardens bereft of furniture. Garden furniture will if anything look great with just about any style of garden. </p>

Indeed, many gardens will provide several different items of furniture so that people have the flexibility to enjoy the garden from a variety of positions. So how does the gardener decide which of these many types of furniture you should be added and to which parts of the garden ? Firstly, they should decide how the garden will be used - formally or informally. Some people entertain a great deal and would use their patios or decks as an extra room for entertaining, while others just want to enjoy the peace and quiet of their gardens. Alternatively the garden may double up as an play area for excitable children.</p>

In order to entertain properly, guest should not be crowded and so plenty of seating is required. If you entertain frequently, you should consider <a href=""http://www.furniture-gardens.co.uk/GardenBenches.html"">gard en benches</a> and deck chairs for more flexibility. Also should you be lucky enough with the climate to serve meals to your guests without leaving your beautiful gardens, then consider a large <a href=""http://www.furniture-gardens.co.uk/PatioFurniture.html"">gar den table and chairs</a> so that you have plenty of room. Additionally you will probably need a decent <a href=""http://www.furniture-gardens.co.uk/Parasols.html"">parasol</ a> to your garden table so that you can entertain with protection from the sun (or rain).</p>

Protection from the sun is something the gardener should be conscious of and what better way to relax in your garden, than to add <a href=""http://furniture-gardens.co.uk/Hammocks.html"">a hammock</a> to a shady area in the garden. Remember, that you do not necessarily need to obliging trees as you can fasten the hammock to two four by four posts that are cemented into the ground or for a quick solution, you could purchase a hammock stand.</p>

Some people prefer to just soak up the sun and for those people the ideal items of furniture are <a href=""http://www.furniture-gardens.co.uk/SunLoungers.html"">sun loungers</a> on your patio or deck. </p>

Indeed, a patio or deck doesn't look finished if it is bare of furniture. A patio is complemented well by either wooden, plastic or metal patio furniture. There should have no problems locating the right pieces for your garden patio and be sure to consider a patio heater. A heater can extend your use of the garden both daily and seasonly. </p>

Finally, as you wander through the garden beds, you will find that there are certain places that are ideal to linger in and ponder. These places are ideal spots for benches or a couple of chairs and a side table. You also may want to add a decorative garden bench to any area in your garden that is a bit bland or in need of a focal point. </p>

About the author: Matthew Anthony contributes to and manages several gardening websites such as <a href=http://www.furniture-gardens.co.uk>garden furniture</a> and <a href=http://www.greenhouses.gb.com>greenhouses</a>.

Tuesday, January 29, 2008

Garden Sheds - More Than a Storage Area

Author: Matthew Anthony

Article:

You may already have a garage or <a href=""http://www.sheds.gb.com"">a shed</a> in your garden or backyard and its possible that you haven't even considered the prospect of adding a garden shed at all. Any garden implements could easily be stored in the garage or utility area. However, <a href=""http://www.sheds.gb.com/GardenSheds.html"">a garden shed</a> is so much more than just an every day storage area, as it can have a character all of its own. It can serve many purposes other than practical ones.</p>

A garden shed can be used as a place to plan and plot your garden's development or just as a place of sanctuary and contemplation. A garden shed can also be used to add depth and character to a garden or even as the focal point with the garden designed to complement the shed. For the uninitiated a garden shed is just another shed. However, there are many different styles, which can add their own individual charm and character to your garden. </p>

The first thing you have to do before adding a shed is to obviously decide its location. The location of the shed will help determine the size and style of the shed. You need to consider many different things such as ease of access, how the shed will look in the chosen area, security, practicality and so on. When the location has been decided and the size of the shed determined then the next thing to so is lay the base. You can use a layer of gravel or build a concrete base. Whatever the base though, it should be level. Do not contemplate adding a shed straight onto the grass. While this may seem obvious people will do it ! It is important that the wooden shed should not be contact with the ground to avoid the wood rotting. Another alternative is to lay the shed on timbers. </p>

The type of shed is the important decision. The choices are simple metal, plastic or <a href=""http://www.sheds.gb.com/WoodenSheds.html"">wooden sheds</a>. Whatever the structure in your garden these are the three basic materials used and the characteristics remain the same for each. Wood provides the classical look, plastic is cheaper and metal is stronger. At the end of day, if the shed is in general view then wood is the preferred solution. An ugly looking plastic or metal shed can ruin he look of a garden. </p>

Another important decision is whether to build the shed yourself or get a professional to do it. Although shed kits usually give you a substantial discount, they require much more time and energy. Some kits even require you to cut the timber to size before you can start building. Having said that the decision is relatively easy if your honest with yourself about your DIY capabilities. </p>

Once, the shed is in place you need to give the wood some protection. While the materials will come with a gaurantee, you should still regularly add a protective coating. If you are putting together a kit, a good tip is to paint as much of the shed as possible before assembly, since it is much easier to paint some parts of the shed before assembly, rather than standing on a ladder to do it. </p>

Unless you are getting a particularly large or unusual shed, it is unlikely you will need planning permission, but always check. You don't want to be moving a full sized shed several feet, so you want to be sure you have it in the right place to begin with. </p>

The typical garden sheds are either <a href=""http://www.sheds.gb.com/ApexSheds.html"">apex sheds</a> or pent sheds. These come in many sizes starting from 2 x 1 metres or 5 x 3 feet upwards. A good idea also is to use the sloping roofs to capture water, which is essential through long hot dry periods.</p>

About the author: Matthew Anthony contributes to several garden building based sites such as <a href=http://www.uk-conservatories-online.co.uk>conservatories</a> and <a href=http://www.uk-greenhouses.co.uk>greenhouses</a>.

Monday, January 28, 2008

Water Conservation in the Yard

Author: http://www.home-and-garden-decor.net

Article: Often you don't appreciate something until it's gone! That can really be true with water. Taken for granted when it is plentiful, its importance is truly appreciated in the garden once it becomes scarce. If you find yourself in a drought, there are some things you can do to help conserve water and make the best use of what you have available.

If you have not already mulched your plants, do it! Mulch will help limit the amount of water that evaporates from the soil. While organic mulches such as grass clippings or wood chips are preferable since they add organic matter to the soil, plastic mulches are useful in limiting evaporation from the soil. They can be laid between rows in the vegetable garden and will help limit moisture loss; however, they also will limit infiltration. Place your water where it will do the most good. Sprinklers are very inefficient for getting water to the roots of your plants. Much of the water lands on the leaves and evaporates before reaching the ground. A slow gentle watering at the base of the plants, allowing the water to soak into the soil, will be most efficient. Water those plants needing it most. Newly planted trees, shrubs, and flowers with limited roots systems will most likely suffer first from drought conditions. Give these plants priority if water is scarce. Well-established plants, especially those native to the area, are likely to withstand drought conditions with limited damage. Water in the early morning before the heat of the day. This limits evaporation and supplies plants with needed moisture to make it through the hot, sunny day. Consider using drip or trickle irrigation systems. Many inexpensive, easy to install systems are available that provide small amounts of water to the base of individual plants. These systems place the water where it is needed most, rather than applying it across the whole garden. Check with your local garden center. Collect water from downspouts when it rains. Roofs intercept significant amounts of rain. Collecting this runoff into a barrel can help limit the use of city or well water during dry spells.

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About the author: None

Sunday, January 27, 2008

Dream Yard

Author: http://www.home-and-garden-decor.net

Article: Do you ever dream about what your yard could look like some day? As you look through garden catalogs filled with beautiful trees, shrubs, flowers and pictures of beautifully landscaped yards--complete with ponds and garden sculptures--the choices seem endless. Before ordering hundreds of plants or giving up because you cannot decide what you really want, here are a few things to consider.

A common issue in landscaping is creating a peaceful, private environment. While fencing can provide immediate privacy, consider a buffer strip of shrubbery between your yard and the one next door. Many shrubs will grow quickly--within a couple of years--and act as a screen while providing habitat for a variety of birds. Consider planting native shrubs because they are usually well adapted to local conditions and may provide the best habitat for local wildlife. Other considerations: whether the plants have special characteristics such as flowers or fruits, how large they will eventually become, and how much maintenance they require to remain healthy and in scale with your yard. Check with a local nursery or garden center for recommended species.

If you always thought it would be fun to have a pond, try it. With the variety of materials now on the market, anyone can have a garden pond, regardless of the size of the yard. If you have a lot of space, you can build one right in the ground. You can purchase a pre-formed mold or dig a hole and line it with a plastic pond liner. A simple type of pond consists of a plastic lined barrel or tub. Just add water, plants, a pump, and even fish--and you have a pond for your patio. Be sure to consider sources of electricity if you intend to add a pump. Also, make sure you use caution and take security measures if small children have access to your yard and the pond. Another factor to consider is maintenance. A pond can require a lot of effort to keep it clear of algae, leaves, and debris.

If you do not want to spend your weekends maintaining a yard, turn part of it into a wildflower garden. Depending on where you live, this could be a prairie, desert landscape, or alpine garden. Check on local zoning ordinances. Some communities have not yet recognized the value of ""native landscaping"" and may consider this a nuisance area. If you want a more maintained yard, consider ground covers instead of grass and use mulch to control weeds in foundation plantings and flower beds.

When selecting plants, make sure they are adapted to your area. Consider both the minimum and maximum temperatures, amount of moisture, amount of sunlight, and soil characteristics. Ask yourself: Do you want an annual that will need replanting every year or a perennial that comes up year after year? Do you want cut flowers for inside your home or to give to friends?

Consider native plants. They are usually better adapted to local conditions and need little maintenance. Be cautious about introducing exotic species such as purple loosestrife that will become invasive and is prohibited in many states.

Above all, choose what you like. There is an enormous variety of plants that will provide food and shelter to a wide variety of wildlife. With a little planning, you and the local wildlife can both enjoy the yard of your dreams.

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About the author: None

Saturday, January 26, 2008

Patio Ponds

Author: http://www.home-and-garden-decor.net

Article: Garden ponds and fountains were once mainly for the very rich. Today, anyone can have a garden pond. A fountain or waterfall can be included almost anyplace--even if your ""yard"" is limited to a patio or balcony.

Adding water to your patio can be as simple as setting out a shallow dish of water for use as a birdbath. Any shallow container at least 6 inches wide and a half-inch deep will work. Pie pans, garbage can lids, or flowerpot bases work well in small spaces. Fill the container with clean water and wash it every day or two. The wildlife attracted to the water will depend on where you place the container. Containers set on the ground usually attract the greatest number of wildlife species, from birds and butterflies to squirrels and toads. Hanging birdbaths or ones on pedestals will be restricted to those creatures that can fly or jump high enough to reach the water, and give birds a chance to escape from neighborhood cats and other predators.

If you want to grow water plants--and perhaps a fish or two--you can add a tub garden to your patio or yard. Many products are on the market today. Frequently, half whiskey kegs with plastic liners are used. Numerous plastic tub gardens are available in a variety of sizes and have the advantage of being lightweight and inexpensive. Small pumps can be added to any of these containers to allow for fountains or cascades of water. Moving water is pleasant to listen to and attractive to wildlife.

Here are some considerations before adding a small tub pond to your patio or yard.

If you want to grow water plants, choose a container that is at least a foot deep. While some water plants do well in shallow water, other species--including some water lilies--require deeper water. Consider adding a variety of plant species. Depending on the depth of your tub, place pots of plants either on the bottom or on bricks to achieve the proper depth. Floating plants such as duckweed also can be added. Floating plants reduce the amount of sunlight that enters the water, which helps reduce the growth of algae. When adding potted plants, place a layer of stones on top of the soil before setting the pots in the water. This will help hold the soil in place and help prevent any fish from ""digging"" into the pots. If you live in a cold climate, consider what you will do with the tub garden in the winter. Small tubs can be moved inside if a suitable location is available. Other tubs may need to be drained to prevent damage from freezing. Caution: Use caution and take security measures if small children have access to your pond. Even small tub gardens can be hazardous. If you intend to have a fountain or waterfall, be sure a grounded electrical outlet is available.

Above all, have fun. Water gardens provide habitat for wildlife, but also can be an enjoyable hobby for you and your family.

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About the author: None

Friday, January 25, 2008

How to Plant a Tree

Author: http://www.home-and-garden-decor.net

Article: Selecting the right tree for the right place is a good first step in any landscape design, but proper planting also is important for getting your tree off to a good start. Trees are like all living creatures. They require more attention in the beginning to promote a long, healthy life.

Carefully choose the planting site. Trees are difficult to move once they are established. Check with local authorities for regulations on placement of trees. Some communities have ordinances restricting placement of trees within a specified distance of a street, sidewalk, streetlight, or other utilities. BEFORE DIGGING, make sure that all underground utilities are clearly marked. You wouldn't want to cut off the electric power to your community or risk injury.

Carefully follow the planting instructions that come with your tree. If specific instructions are not available, follow these tips:

Dig a hole about twice the size of the tree's root ball, or about one foot wider than the root system. The hole should be slightly shallower than the root ball. If the soil is especially heavy or wet, consider planting the tree slightly higher. Remove all materials from the root mass. This includes wires, string, burlap, and biodegradable containers. Neglecting this will hinder proper root growth. Gently place the tree in the center of the hole and position it to grow straight. If the tree has a prettier side, place it in the direction most frequently viewed. If planting a bare root tree, carefully spread the roots. Crumble the soil removed from the hole and cover the roots with it. As you add soil to fill in around the tree, lightly tamp the soil to collapse air pockets, or add water to help settle the soil. Air pockets around the roots can be devastating to a newly planted tree. Add about four inches of mulch--wood chips, shredded bark, or grass clippings--around the base of the tree, extending out to the tips of the outermost branches. A 3-foot diameter circle of mulch is common. Mulching will retain moisture, reduce weeds, maintain a more even soil temperature, and eliminate mowing next to the delicate bark. Be sure to pull the mulch away from the tree trunk because decomposing mulch can cause rot problems. Finally, give the tree a thorough watering. If the root ball is extremely dry, allow water to trickle into the soil by placing the hose at the trunk of the tree. Young trees need protection against rodents, frost cracks, sunscald, lawnmowers, and weed whackers. Plastic guards are an inexpensive and easy control method. Light colored tree wraps can be used to protect the trunk from sunscald. Usually, staking trees is not necessary unless you live in an area with high winds.

A properly planted and maintained tree will grow much faster and live much longer than one that is incorrectly planted. Trees can be planted almost anytime of the year as long as the soil is not frozen. However, early fall is the optimum time to plant trees. For the first year or two, especially after a week or so of extremely hot or dry weather, watch your tree closely for signs of moisture stress. If you see leaf wilting or hard, caked soil, water the tree well and slowly enough so the water soaks in rather than runs off.

Take the time to give your tree a good start on life. You and the next generation will enjoy the benefits of your backyard tree for years to come.

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About the author: None

Thursday, January 24, 2008

Help Your Backyard Plants Get the Nutrients They Need

Author: http://www.home-and-garden-decor.net

Article: All plants require certain nutrients for good growth. Carbon and oxygen are taken in through the leaves during photosynthesis, while the rest of the required nutrients normally are taken up through the roots.

Most nutrients and water are taken up through the very fine roots called root hairs. These are very small, but are extremely numerous and effective in nutrient uptake. The more soil the roots are able to penetrate, the more potential they have to contact needed nutrients and water. Therefore, providing a noncompacted, well-drained soil is important for optimum growth of most plant species.

These tips will help your plants develop healthy root systems for maximum nutrient uptake:

Do not work in your garden when the soil is wet. Working the soil when it is too wet causes compaction which makes soil particles clump together, reducing the pore space between particles. This makes it more difficult for roots to penetrate the soil and leads to reduced water infiltration and increased runoff. While it may be tempting on those warm early spring days to dig up the garden, you should wait. The right time to work in your garden is when the soil crumbles slightly when you squeeze it in your hand. Add organic matter to your soil. Organic matter is extremely important in improving soil structure and increasing pore space. Organic matter improves the ability of the soil to hold moisture during dry spells. Worms thrive on soil organic matter and are excellent at improving the structure of the soil through their tunneling activities. Also, their castings or excrement is an excellent source of plant nutrients. Compost and peat moss are both excellent sources of organic matter. Mulch your soil. Organic mulches such as bark chips or grass clippings help protect your soil from the impact of raindrops. They prevent crusting of the soil surface. Crusting of the soil can prevent seeds from sprouting and reduces infiltration of water into the soil. As mulch decomposes, it also adds more organic matter to the soil. Remember that some mulches will lower the pH (the acidity of the soil), making some nutrients less available. Use raised beds for a garden if your yard has heavy, poorly drained soils. Raised beds can be made using tillage equipment. You can make permanent beds with rot-resistant wood, filled with a mixture of soil and organic matter. But, you may decide that growing plants tolerant of wet conditions is a less troublesome, more rewarding experience! If you treat your soil well, your plants should develop extensive healthy roots capable of taking up the required plant nutrients.

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About the author: None

Wednesday, January 23, 2008

Working with dahlias

Author: Tony Robinson

Article: Dahlias are among the most beautiful and most exotic residents of any garden. The large blooms of the dahlia are impossible to ignore, and they stand out in any garden in which they are planted. The sturdy, large blooms of the dahlia are available in a variety of colors, and in sizes ranging from as small as an inch to as large as a foot. In addition, the flowers themselves come in a variety of shapes. Some dahlia blooms are shaped like baseballs, while others curve back on themselves to where they nearly touch their stems.

Dahlias are known as sun loving plants, and they definitely do better with sufficient sunlight. Gardeners recommend providing dahlias with at least a half day of sunlight every day. In addition, dahlias need enough water to thrive, and most varieties require from one to two inches of rain, from either rainfall or artificial watering, every week.

In addition, dahlias need a good rich soil with plenty of organic material, a regular pruning schedule, a good insecticide to protect them from beetles and grasshoppers and possibly staking as the plants grow ever taller. In addition, dahlias should be fed with a quality low nitrogen fertilizer as needed.

Dahlias are actually grown from a tuber, a bulb like structure, and dahlias are actually classified as bulb plants. It is best to plant dahlias near the beginning of June, and those dahlias will usually bloom around October. Dahlias can be planted earlier in the season as well, and those dahlias will provide late summer blossoms. Dahlias should be dug up after the first frost of the year. After being dug up, the dahlias should be divided and stored for the winter. Doing so will allow the gardener to replant the dahlia tuber the following year.

Dahlias come in a great many varieties, but one of the most popular varieties is the David George. The David George variety of dahlia features a bloom of deep red color and medium size. Other popular dahlia varieties include the Bonaventure, featuring large bronze colored flowers, and the Allie Yellow, with features a tiny yellow bloom.

In addition to staples like orchids and roses, dahlias are often seen at flower shows, and many gardeners grow dahlias purely for these competitions. A prize dahlia can certainly be the star of any flower show, due to their striking beauty and large size.

About the author: Tony Robinson is an international author and webmaster. In his busy life he finds time to ""Smell the Roses"". For geat tips, techniques and articles visit http://www.rose-bloom.com

Tuesday, January 22, 2008

Earthworm Friends in the Garden

Author: Marilyn Pokorney

Article: REQUIREMENTS FOR REPRINT: You have permission to publish this article free of charge in your e-zine, newsletter, ebook, print publication or on your website ONLY if it remains unchanged and you include the copyright and author information (Resource Box) at the end. You may not use this article in any unsolicited commercial email (spam).

You may retrieve this article by:

Autoresponder: earthworm@getresponse.com Website: http://www.apluswriting.net/articles/earthworm.txt

Words: 341 Copyright: 2005 Marilyn Pokorney

Please leave the resource box intact with an active link, and send a courtesy copy of the publication in which the article appears to: marilynp@nctc.net ---------------------------- Earthworms are a gardener's best friend.

Research has shown that earthworm excrement, also called castings or vermicompost, improves the aeration, porosity, structure, drainage, and moisture-holding capacity of soil.

Many studies prove that when compared to conventional composts, vermicompost is less variable and much more stable. Mixing vermicompost into the planting medium essentially eliminated the need for additional fertilizer in the production of tomato plugs as one example.

Studies show that earthworm castings increase height, stem diameter, enhance root growth, increase dry weight, and produce more flowers per plant than peat moss.

Redworm castings are the richest and purest humus matter in the world. Humus is believed to aid in the prevention of harmful plant pathogens, fungi, nematodes and bacteria.

One pound of worms can convert one pound of pig manure into compost in 48 hours!

Worms consume three times their weight a week or more. Red wrigglers are very active, reproduce quickly and consume their own body weight of waste every 24 hours. Therefore ten pounds of worms will eat ten pounds of waste in 24 hours!

Worm castings provide a rich source of a variety of essential plant nutrients.

Microbial activity in worm castings is 10 to 20 times higher than in the soil and organic matter that the worm ingests.""

How to use worm castings:

When planting vegetable and annuals line the rows and holes with about two inches of castings. About every eight weeks side dress the plants with one-half cup of castings per plant or one cup per foot of row.

For perennials work one-half cup of castings into the soil in the spring, middle of summer, and early fall.

For pots and hanging baskets add one-half inch castings to the top and water in. Then reapply every eight weeks.

Roses appreciate four cups of castings per plant.

If starting a new lawn add 15 pounds of casting per 100 square feet when sowing. Once established use seven pounds per 100 square feet.

For more information about vermicompost and castings visit:

http://www.apluswriting.net/garden/earthworm.htm

About the author: Marilyn Pokorney Freelance writer of science, nature, animals and the environment. Also loves crafts, gardening, and reading. Website: http://www.apluswriting.net

Monday, January 21, 2008

How to Grow Sweet Corn

Author: Linda Paquette

Article: Purchased corn, whether on the cob or in a can can't compare for taste! Sweet corn is easy to grow in the flower and fruit gardening guides home garden with just a little know how and a few corn facts. Corn needs warm soil temperatures (50° - 65° Fahrenheit) to germinate. Warm temperatures cause sugars in corn to turn into starches and results in loss of sweetness and creamy texture. Sugars also begin converting to starches immediately after harvest. Sweet corn is divided into three types according to its sweetness: (SU) normal sugary or standard sweet corn, (SE) sugary enhanced, and (Sh2) super sweet. Standard Sweet Corn (SU) Normal sugary is the traditional variety of sweet corn. Less sweet than the other types, it will tolerate low temperatures at planting time.

Sugary Enhanced (SE) (SE) corn is the preferred choice of many of today's flower and fruit gardening guides home gardeners. Sugary enhanced is sweeter than standard corn and retains sweetness longer than either of the other types. While not as sweet as super sweet, it has a creamier texture and tolerates lower soil temperatures.

Super Sweet Super sweet (Sh2) kernels differ from the other two types of sweet corn by their shriveled, small appearance. Although the sweetest of the three, (Sh2) needs a soil temperature of at least 65° F to germinate. Another drawback of (Sh2) is that its texture is drier and its sugars more rapidly convert to starch after harvest.

Sow your seed in a very rich garden soil and give it access to ample moisture. Because corn is a high-nitrogen feeder, even the best soils may need to the addition of aged manure or nutrient rich compost to produce an optimum crop.

Plant corn in two or more rows for pollination to be successful. Plant kernels in hills of three, spaced about a foot a part with rows three feet apart. Plant kernels from one to 1 ½ inches deep or ¾ inch deep for super sweet types. After germination, preserve the most robust plant in each hill, discarding any other seedlings that have sprouted.

Water rows well after planting, especially in the case of super sweet kernels, which need to absorb more water to germinate. Keep plants well watered throughout the growing season. Corn needs moisture in order to form tassels and silk and to develop healthy ears.

Cultivate frequently to control weeds, but shallowly so as not to damage stalks or roots.

Corn is ready to harvest when silk becomes dry at the ends, ears feel full, and a thumbnail puncture produces a milky-white substance. The sap from under ripe corn will appear watery. Each stalk should produce one large ear of corn. Many varieties also develop a second, smaller ear. Generally, from the time the silk is visible to harvest is about 20 days.

Watch your crop closely after the first silks appear. This is the "milk stage" which lasts for only about a week. The best corn is always the freshest corn! Grill it, steam it, roast it, microwave it --- enjoy it

About the author:

Linda is an author of <a href=""http://www.gardening-guides.com/related-articles/how-to/rel ated-how-to.htm""> Gardening Tips Tricks and Howto's</a>&nbsp; of Gardening Guides and the<a href=""http://www.lawnmower-guide.com/product-pages/prod_lawn_care .htm""> Lawn Care</a> section of the Lawnmower Guide.

She writes and inspire you to try new ideas from her own experience.

Sunday, January 20, 2008

Wooden Garden Furniture

Author: Matthew Anthony

Article:

<a href=http://www.furniture-gardens.co.uk/WoodenGardenFurniture.htm l>Wooden Garden Furniture</a> can be the ideal solution to various seating problems in your garden. You can add new seating areas to your garden by perhaps turning a path into a destination for a sit down or consider adding a few pieces of wooden garden furniture to less frequented corners of the garden.</p>

Your garden may be a coastal beach or you have a garden naturalistic wooded landscape, you can easily find some pieces that add the perfect touch to your garden, since wooden garden furniture can suit just about any style.</p>

For example, rustic wooden furniture can add just the right touch to your woodland garden. It is possible to get benches, tables, and seats that are often made entirely from who tree trunks that still have bark on them. Other pieces are a combination of pinewood and tree branches. This style of wooden garden furniture has a natural handcrafted look that makes them an excellent addition to any garden.</p>

A classic combination for coastal gardens is an Adirondack chairs with a matching side table and footstool. These chairs are ideal for a decking area or patio, particularly when they are painted in bright primary colours. They are very comfortable to sit in and the wide arms of the chairs are ideal for holding a glass of something.</p>

A traditional cottage garden makes the ideal setting for the equally traditional wooden bench. Also, a <a href=http://www.furniture-gardens.co.uk/SunLoungers.html>wooden sun lounger</a> will also suit a cottage garden with the classical look. You could than add a wooden table and a few chairs to your patio so that you and your guests can enjoy dinner outdoors. However, make sure you have a <a href=http://www.furniture-gardens.co.uk/Parasols.html>parasol</a> for the unpredictable British summers whether to protect from the sun or the rain.</p>

A particularly versatile piece of wooden garden furniture is the wooden picnic table. This can be used in a number of gardens or situations such as a landscaped garden or children's play area. Remember to add children's wooden furniture, such as table and chairs to the garden so that your children can enjoy the surroundings.</p>

Once you have purchased your wooden furniture you should make sure that you maintain it correctly by applying a protective finish. This will keep it from deteriorating from sun and rain exposure. There are several good alternatives here such as exterior wood stain, acrylic latex paint or water repellent preservative are all good choices. </p>

Given good care and attention your wooden garden furniture will give you a great deal of pleasure for many years. </p>

About the author: Matthew Anthony has contributed to several garden based sites such as <a href=http://www.furniture-gardens.co.uk>garden furniture</a> and <a href=http://www.uk-hammocks.co.uk>hammocks</a>.

Lawn Mower Parts Overview

Author: Andrew Caxton

Article: If you are one of those who works usually with lawnmowers, then you probably already know the big importance that lawn mower parts have. No matter what model of machine you drive, it will need some parts replacement after some years of use. Even the best manufacturers' models, which worked smoothly at the beginning or that model you bought being the sturdiest mower at the moment will have something broken and therefore will go wrong after few years.

Damage and wear are two of the most typical reasons for replacing lawn mower parts. Since wear refers to parts that have been working hard and do not perform as they should, damage refers to parts that are totally broken and need to be replaced completely. Wear situations come up usually due to worn parts. Unsharpened blades is a clear example of worn parts. You just need to sharpen blades and you mower will cut the lawn as a newer one. Damage situations are easy to detect because most of the times the engine doesn't start at all. It can also happens that suddenly you'd had a lawn mower break when you have only mowed half of the garden size. It becomes an annoying situation and very embarrassing as well.

One of the most typical problem for lawn mower parts replacements is when you broke off the clutch handle as well as blades sharpening. No panic when it happens, it's plenty of mower parts out there, you just need to find the part that better fits your needs. You might be thinking on how easy is to find a mower part. However, it isn't as easy task as it seems at all. Finding the most suitable part that better works with your mower might be sometimes a bit tricky. What professional gardeners use to do is to find the specific parts in a lawn mower parts catalog. But, not everyone have access to this parts catalog, specially regular home and garden owners that just want to find a small piece for their specific model.

How To Find The Right Lawn Mower Parts

The simplest way to find specific lawn mower parts is at the gardening warehouses. You can find there most parts for common mowers' manufacturers. These warehouses have the knowledge and compatibility lists for your specific model as well as most parts to get your machine mowing again. If you are lucky, your mower will run again just a few hours later, if they don't have your required part in stock, then you might order it and pick it up a couple of days later.

Toro And Simplicity Lawnmower Parts

They are two of the most reliable and truly manufacturers across the world. Toro mower parts can be purchased from almost any Toro dealer as well as from any mower parts or goods warehouse that are specialized in Toro manufacturer. Like many other products, lawn mower parts are divided into subcategories inside walk-behind or riding mowers models. These subcategories are essentially the following 3:

•Engine assembly for current gas powered mowers. •Handle assembly for handle parts and parts like cables. •Housing assembly for housing parts such as wheels or frames

Since Toro lawn mower manufacturer offers reliable performance machines, they are yet not the most affordable mower for homeowners. Simplicity mower parts give customers the ability to repair their lawnmowers at affordable prices. Simplicity is a truly mower and parts manufacturer focused to provided top quality for those who are confident enough to perform their own mower parts replacements. Simplicity mowers are specifically designed to make repairs quickly and easily, performance might not be so good, but enough for a small yard. However, there are also commercial simplicity mowers such as three-wheel riding mowers as well as zero-turn riding lawn mowers.

http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com

About the author: Mr.Caxton is a successful freelance author who writes regularly for http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com. A lawn care website that carries articles on <a href=""http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com"">lawn mowers</a>, <a href=""http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com/lawn-tractor s.html"">lawn tractors </a> amongst other garden equipment.

Saturday, January 19, 2008

Courtyard Gardens - Planning Tips

Author: Malcolm Kay

Article: With an increasing tendency for empty nesters, young couples and singles towards higher density inner city living, and the desire to spend minimal time on maintaining gardens or other outdoor spaces, most new apartments, townhouses and condominiums tend to have only pocket sized backyards, courtyards or balconies. So it becomes particularly important to make the most of such limited areas by landscaping and utilizing the space in the best possible way.

But you don't have to be a professional landscape architect to create an inviting courtyard space - you just have to follow a few basic design principles. Whilst you can't physically increase the size of a small garden, you can certainly employ a few visual tricks to create the illusion of space.

One important way of doing this is to create a thematic link between the indoor and outdoor areas. Linking the backyard or courtyard to the family room or kitchen, breaks down the division between inside and outside, making the total area appear larger. To establish this link, try to use paving materials that are similar to those used in the house. If you have a tiled area inside, consider extending the same or similar tiles outside. If you have a solid wood or wood laminate floor, one simple solution is to lay interlocking wood deck tiles on the external patio or courtyard (see for example www.ezydeck.net). Although such tiles are best laid over a concrete pad, they can also be laid over a level and well compacted gravel surface. And they can be moved and re-laid at will should you decide to change the design of your outdoor space at any time.

Light colours in the paving and on the courtyard walls will also create an impression of space, so lighter colored tiles would generally be preferable in small spaces.

In confined spaces, more space should be devoted to sitting & walking areas than to plants which should be placed in wide, raided beds. Deck tiles could be used as "stepping stones" along a pathway interspersed with gravel or stones and bordered by plantings. Don't overdo the garden art. One sculpture or water feature is more than enough.

Clan simple lines are generally better in small situations rather than a "busy" appearance and a formal look is usually more suitable than an informal look. Several large pots or planter boxes will look less cluttered than numerous small ones.

Avoid using flowers with strong red, yellow or orange colours as they tend to "advance" towards you. Blues, purples and grays are preferable because they are not dominating. And make sure plants are selected for all round appeal and not just for a brief burst of colour for a few weeks, but dull for the rest of the year.

With a bit of planning, even the smallest of areas can be made to look larger than you may think.

About the author: Malcolm Kay is the CEO of Intex Pacific Pty. Ltd. an exporter of landscape materials including modular decking tiles. For further information see www.ezydeck.net

Friday, January 18, 2008

July Garden Chores

Author: Sandra Wilson

Article: It's getting hotter every day or so it seems. There are still some things that can be done in the garden even at this time of year. Below are a few gardening tips for those that love the summer warmth. For you who aren't particularly appreciative of the hot hot, then do your gardening chores early in the morning.

As the flowers in your garden start to fade, you should see seed pods begin to appear. What does this mean as far as the plant's growth is concerned? How does it affect the appearance of your garden?</P>

It means that the plant puts most of its resources towards the seeds and creating them. If the seed pods are allowed to remain, the plant will not continue to give you flowers like it would if the seeds were removed once the flowers go by. You could end up with a garden with lots of seeds and few blooms. This of course, depends on many factors. Therefore, faded flowers should be cut off. You can go around every day as you go about youyr gardening with some type of trimmers or scissors and cut off all the dead flowers. You can add this organic matter to your compost pile.</P>

But,there are, of course, exceptions to every rule. There are a some plants that are grown because of their colored or shaped seed pods. Among these are the Chinese lanterns plants. It is a low-growing plant with white flowers that some may think are not as pretty as many other flowers, but when the flowers have gone by, balloon-like seed pods gradually appear. At first these are green, but in time they will change to a brilliant orange-red. They can be used in vases in the house throughout the winter to brighten the decor. </P>

At this time of year, you might find a beautiful flower on some plant in your garden and you just want to save the seed. Tie a piece of string around the stem so you can identify it later and very carefully remove the other flowers from the plant as they fade. Then, when the seed is ready, you can cut the stem bearing the seed. After leaving it in a warm dry place for a few days, carefully seperate out the seeds and put them away for another day. They should be kept perfectly dry. This is one technique towards creating your own special garden and an interesting gardening technique as well.</P>

In some cases, it is a good plan to sow seed as soon as it is ready as it grows more quickly and more surely than seed that has been kept. For annuals, this may not be practical this late in the season. This, of course, depends upon your growing season, how long the individual plant actually takes to set seed and other factors. With perennials, you might be able to get a head start on next spring by planting the seed in a protected area for the winter. Maybe in a cold frame in a protected area. On the other hand, there are some seeds that just do not grow for a long time. Some seeds require a certain number of hours of cold temperatures or even below freezing temperatures before planting. You will have to research the individual plant you have seed from to see what is practical.</P>

If you have carnations in your garden where the calyx has a bad habit of splitting, try these old time fixes. That's the green portions that surrounds the petals. First stake each individual stem upright so it will not bend over. If that doesn't work try putting tiny rubber bands around the calyx to prevent splitting. It could be fun explaining to guests your gardening technique here.</P>

Keep watering, weeding and putting the mulch on the soil to the proper depth around your flowers, shrubs and trees as described in other articles on our website. Heed the warnings in those articles as well.</P>

Roses have chores that should be done this month too. Be on the look out for suckers coming from the roses in your garden. Where roses grow on their own roots, maybe reared from cuttings, there should be no suckers at all. But many roses we buy have been grafted to a stronger root stock and sometimes this root stock will send out suckers. Any suckers from the roots, or from the stem below the graft, should be removed as far below the surface of the soil as possible carefully. (You may wish you could remove other suckers from your life as easily as with your gardening.)</P>

Also, at this time, rose budding can be done. It is a very interesting project. There are many points to learn and do. These are: the right stage at which to take a bud, how to trim the bud, how to make the cut for the bud and where, how to insert the bud and how to secure it. This topic will be covered in our gardening tips more fully at another time. </P>

About the author: &copy; 2005, Sandra Dinkins-Wilson. Find more articles for <a href=""http://flowergardenlovers.com"" title=""Flower Garden"">Flower Garden</a> Lovers at our informative website, http://flowergardenlovers.com.

Thursday, January 17, 2008

What is Organic Farming?

Author: Jeremy Pickles

Article: Organic farming is the production of food using all natural methods - avoiding all synthetic chemicals and genetically modified organisms. Its' core philosophy is that of sustainability or 'zero impact'. The organic farmer seeks to leave the earth in its' natural state after the harvest.

The focus of organic methods is on soil quality. Crops are grown without artificial fertilizers and pesticides, and livestock is reared free of drugs and hormones. Proponents of organic food believe it produces food with higher quality and nutritional value than conventional chemical-based methods.

Many countries including the US and the EU have certification programs to control the use of the term ""Organic"". This benefits the consumer by ensuring best practice has been followed. This varies from region to region but includes things like the minimum length of time a field can be left free of chemicals before it is allowed to be used for organic farming.

There are many different styles of organic food production but they all adhere to the same principles:

* no artificial fertilizers or drugs * no genetically modified organisms * prevention of soil depletion * 'biodiversity' - the growing of a range of crops not just a single species.

One recent researcher found that vegetables in the 1950s contained more than eight times as many trace elements as modern crops, which he attributed to the excessive use of nitrate fertilizers. You can read all the latest research at http://www.ge-free.com/

Organic farming has come about as a consumer reaction against the chemical based methods that have been used so widely in 20th century food production. Really though it is simply a formalised definition of traditional agriculture as it has been practiced for thousands of years before 20th century chemicals were invented.

So far, organic farming has been limited to small businesses growing for local markets. Organic farming methods are very expensive compared to their chemical counterparts, and the production yields are low when compared to 'conventional' farming.

Consumers of course are willing to pay a premium for the improved flavour and nutrition value of organic produce but it remains a premium market. This will change as more large scale organic producers enter production.

Most countries now have 'all organic' type food stores in the larger cities. So long as there are people who enjoy healthy living and an alternative to the chemical ridden norm, these businesses will continue to flourish.

About the author: Jeremy is the owner of http://www.ge-free.com/ and publisher of Organic Food News.

Wednesday, January 16, 2008

How to make your Backyard a Wonderland Oasis

Author: Robert Gravestock

Article: Home and garden accessories make the difference between house and home. Unfortunately, quality accessories can be notoriously expensive and in today's economy, finding beauty at a price one can afford is sometimes difficult but can be done. The difference between an empty backyard and a lush garden oasis comes down to the details. Visual and aural grace notes can transform any space.

Creating a relaxing atmosphere has as much to do with sound as with visual details. For instance, a simple white hammock suspended between two trees or a solid-wood swing becomes a perfect spot for Sunday afternoon naps and quiet conversations. Accompany that with tea-light candle lanterns, arranged attractively on a treated outdoor cocktail table placed next to a rose bed makes a perfect place for morning coffee. Hang a wood and steel wind chime nearby, hung high in the trees, sending pleasant notes over the air. Depending on the materials used in construction, wind chimes can sound like tinkling bells, or have rich, sonorous chimes. Finally, place a gently flowing fountain just behind is always an elegant finishing touch. Voila. You've incorporated all the elements: fire, water, steel and wood, and created your own Feng Shui paradise.

For those fond of outdoor pieces, like garden statues, birdbaths and fountains, be sure to take the height of the surrounding plants (if any) into consideration. If you have a lush garden, full of tall grasses and flowering plants, consider foot tall or higher plaster statues of children gathering flowers, angels whispering to one another, or playful rabbits. Small plaster statues in the form of either sweet cherubs or amusing gargoyles (believed in ancient times to keep evil spirits away) are very charming when placed in garden beds featuring low growing border plants.

When choosing home and garden accessories to enjoy in your backyard wonderland, don't forget to think of the very birds, bees and butterflies which also call your backyard home. The friendlier a backyard is to flora and neighborhood fauna, the more inviting it is to people, too. Watching robins in the spring, hummingbirds in the summer and sparrows in the fall is one of the more relaxing aspects of backyard living.

Outdoor garden decor is as reliant on lighting as it is on comfortable, all weather furnishings. After all, you want to be able to enjoy your beautiful outdoor living room in the evenings too. Though the most impressive lighting systems can be very expensive in ground, electrical solutions, the experts at <a href=""http://www.BackyardWonderland.com/"" target=""new""><B>Backyard Wonderland</B></a> want to remind you that sometimes simple, old fashioned candlelight is the most romantic and beautiful lighting of all.

For those with outdoor gazebos, or trees with limbs strong and low, the selection of a candle-bearing chandelier can be breathtakingly beautiful. Similarly, tea-candle lanterns, hung on low branches create mysterious and romantic lightscaping. Asian lanterns, with frosted glass panels, and Moroccan lanterns, with colored glass panels, create environments simultaneously festive and romantic.

Of course, nothing beats a set of impressive table-top candlesticks. Strong carved wooden options, standing over a foot tall, make any outdoor dining experience more formal instantly. Brass, bronze, and metal sticks convey style and strength, and make dramatic impact. Ornate candle centerpieces set a beautiful table, and can be either fancy in polished metals, or whimsical in novelty designs.

Statuary is not relegated only to outdoor environments. A beautiful bronze statue in the style of Remington, Rodin, or Michelangelo always makes an impressive statement in living and dining rooms. Patriotic sculptures and statues, too, are enjoying new-found popularity.

Robert Gravestock <a href=""http://www.BackyardWonderland.com/"" target=""new""><B>Backyard Wonderland</B></a>

About the author: In today's economy, finding beauty at a price one can afford is difficult. Providing our customers with this opportunity is our highest priority. At <a href=""http://www.BackyardWonderland.com/"" target=""new""><B>Backyard Wonderland</B></a>, we strive to offer our customers the finest backyard accessories at the lowest possible prices and first-rate customer service.

Tuesday, January 15, 2008

How to Grow Sprouts

Author: Jeremy Pickles

Article: Sprouts not only taste good, but they are also a great source of vitamins, fiber, protein, anti-oxidants, and enzymes. A sprout is produced when a seed starts growing into a vegetable. Sprouts can grow from the seeds of vegetables, from grains such as buckwheat, and from beans. While Mung beans are perhaps the most common source of sprouts, you can also obtain good results from lentils, soybeans and chickpeas just to name a few.

Sprouts can be grown almost anywhere and the best part is you only need a few basic supplies to get started. By following a few simple steps, you can receive a continual supply of nutritious sprouts.

While there are several commercial products available to cultivate sprouts, here are three of the easiest methods to help you get started.

- Growing Sprouts in Flower Pots -

1. Start with a clean clay or plastic flower pot. Make sure there is a hole in the bottom of the pot to ensure good drainage. Then place a piece of cheesecloth or muslin in the bottom of the pot over the hole so that the seeds/beans cannot fall out.

2. Next, soak the seeds or beans overnight and then put them in the pot. Remove any that are broken or damaged. Cover the plant pot with a dish.

3. Once a day, hold the pot under running water for a few minutes. This is to soak the seeds/beans thoroughly.

4. Once the sprouts begin to show, remove the dish and cover the pot with a piece of clear plastic wrap to let in the light. Place the sprouting pot near a window that allows daylight but is not in direct sunlight.

- Growing the Sprouts in Trays -

1. Soak the seeds or beans overnight. Remove any that are broken or damaged before you begin the sprouting process.

2. Select a low, flat dish (like a pie plate) or tray. You can purchase growing trays wherever planting supplies are sold.

3. Next, spread out a 2-inch layer of soil and then sprinkle the soaked seeds or beans on top of the soil.

4. Cover the seeds/beans with four layers of damp newspaper.

5. Cover the top of the tray with clear plastic wrap.

6. When the sprouts start to lift the plastic cover, (usually about three days) remove the newspaper.

7. Place the tray in a window so that the light can turn the sprouts green. You will need a space to place the sprouting tray that receives daylight but is not in direct sunlight.

8. Because the thin layer of soil dries out quickly, water twice each day.

9. After about 8-10 days, you will have sprouts tall enough to harvest.

- Growing Sprouts in a Jar -

1. Soak the seeds, grains, or beans in lukewarm water overnight in a wide-mouth glass jar. Remove any that are broken or damaged before you begin the sprouting process. (Sprouting increases the seed volume. 4-tablespoons will be sufficient for a quart size container.)

2. In the morning, pour off the water in the jar and rinse the seeds/beans thoroughly.

3. Place a piece of cheesecloth or muslin over the mouth of the jar. Use a rubber band to hold the material securely in place. This makes rinsing easier.

4. To keep the sprouts constantly damp, repeat the rinsing 2-3 times a day. Remember to drain any excess water because the sprouts should not stand in water.

5. Keep the jar away from the light for the first few days.

6. When the seeds/beans begin to sprout, (usually about the forth day) move the jar into the light to activate the chlorophyll and turn the sprouts green.

- Harvesting and Storing the Sprouts -

Newly germinated grain, seed, and sprouts, increase in food value in the very first period of growth. Grains should be harvested and eaten from when they are six days old until they are 4-5 inches tall. To harvest, just take your kitchen scissors and cut what you need.

Sprouts from beans, peas, etc., are ready earlier and can be eaten when they are 3-6 days old, depending on the type of sprout. For spouts grown in no soil or in seed trays, you can harvest the green ""grass"" when it starts to grow. Sprouts, from grain sown in jars, are ready sooner and are edible even before they turn green. Seeds sown in soil take a little longer.

If necessary, wash the sprouts thoroughly to remove the seed coat. Sprouts need to be stored in the refrigerator once they are ready to eat. Put the sprouts in tight sealing bags, and they will remain flavorful and crisp for one to two weeks. Rinsing the sprouts daily under cold water can extend their life.

Sprouts may be frozen by blanching them over steam for three minutes and then cooling them in ice water. Drain them and pack into freezer containers.

- Some of the Kinds of Seeds/Beans You Can Sprout -

The following list gives some of the popularly sprouted seeds/beans. It is not all inclusive as you can sprout almost any kind of seed. Remember that seeds soak up 2-3 times their dry volume in water and sprouts need at least six times the volume occupied by the seeds. So be sure that your container is large enough, and start with a minimal amount of seed in a container like a jar, until you determine the correct quantity that will grow to the sprout size you like, without being difficult to remove.

Your local garden shop or health food store will carry a line of seeds for sprouting. When purchasing seeds for sprouting, be certain that the seeds are intended for food and not for planting. This precaution is necessary because some seeds meant for planting have been treated with fungicides or insecticides to protect the young seedlings when planted in a field or garden.

Alfalfa - should be soaked for 6-12 hours. The seeds can be planted in the pots or jars and also in the flats with soil. 1-part seed gives 10-parts sprouts in approximately 5-6 days. Sprouts can be eaten after 3 days. When the root is 1-2 inches long, it will begin to develop tiny green leaves. At this stage, it needs to be eaten immediately so the plant will not switch to photosynthesis that exhausts the stored food in the seed.

Peas - when soaked in a glass jar, will grow sprouts in about 3 days. When the roots are 2-inches long, they are ready to eat. 1-part peas gives 2-parts sprouts.

Lentils - can be grown in either a glass jar or a plant pot and need to be soaked for 12-hours. The sprouts are ready in 3-4 days. Lentil sprouts are ready to be eaten when the root is 1-inch long. 1-part lentils gives 6-parts sprouts.

Barley, Oats, and Rye - should be soaked for 12-hours and then can either be grown as ""grass"" to harvest, or sprouts ready to eat after 3-4 days. The ideal length for eating is about 1/2-inch. 1-part seed gives 2-parts sprouts.

Soybeans - can be grown in a glass jar or a pot. They need to be soaked for 12-hours and sprouts are usually ready after 3-5 days. They are ready to eat when the root is 2-inches long. 1-part beans gives 4-parts sprouts.

Mung Beans - after soaking for 12-hours, these beans can be grown by any method. Mung beans are the most commonly grown sprouts and are usually ready to eat after 3-5 days. When the bright, white root grows from 1-2 inches long, they are ready to eat. 1-part beans gives 4-parts sprouts.

By growing your own sprouts, you will save yourself money because it is less expensive to buy sprout seeds and grow and harvest the sprouts yourself, than it is to buy the sprouts from a market. Sprouting at home takes only a few minutes a day, and can produce a good part of your daily requirements of the nutrients you need from fresh produce. The hassles are minor, the costs are low, and the freshness is wonderful.

About the author: Jeremy is the owner and publisher of <a href=""http://www.ge-free.com/"">Organic News</a>. Go to www.ge-free.com for all the latest organic food articles and news.

Monday, January 14, 2008

How to Grow Bananas

Author: Linda Paquette

Article: How to Grow Bananas

If your grocer says, "Yes, we have no bananas. We have no bananas today," it isn't surprising since the banana is the world's second favorite fruit, surpassed in popularity only by the apple. Once only grown in tropical climates, the good news is that several varieties can be grown in northern areas as well as in the south.

Because it takes nine months or more to reach maturity, some northern gardeners grow the banana plant only for its spectacular ornamental foliage. However, in the hobby greenhouse, even northern growers can achieve a fruit harvest and reap the added benefit of seeing the amazing way in which fruit is produced.

Probably because of its height, the banana plant is often incorrectly called a banana tree. Actually, though, the banana is the largest herbaceous perennial and belongs to the monocotyledons of the Musaceae family, which also includes palms, grasses, and orchids.

Bananas grow from rhizomes, which are stems that take root and send shoots (suckers) up through the soil. Banana plants may also be propagated through suckers (also called pups or ratoons) that grow from the main stem of the banana plant. If you have difficulty in finding banana rhizomes at your local nursery, you can find them in most garden catalogs as well as Internet garden outlets. Site and soil

The banana plant grows best in full sun in soil that provides excellent drainage. Good drainage is crucial since saturated roots may die in less than an hour. It is also important to shelter the banana plant from heavy winds that can tatter the banana plant foliage.

The banana plant is a very heavy feeder. Soil should be nutrient rich, slightly acidic, and loamy enough to retain moisture and keep nutrients from leaching below the shallow roots of the plant. Amendments of good organic compost and green sand or kelp meal will help maintain the banana plant's high mineral requirements.

Planting Banana Rhizomes

Dig a hole about a foot wide and ten to twelve inches deep. Set the rhizome in the hole so that the union between it and the sucker stem are about six inches deep. If your site isn't level, the eye of your banana rhizome should be on the uphill side of your hole. Fill the hole with soil and tamp down firmly to remove any air pockets. If planting more than one rhizome, plants need to be spaced at least ten feet apart so that each gets the benefit of full sun. Water your planting sparingly to keep the rhizome healthy until the plant is established.

Banana Plant Growth

Because of its rapid growth, the banana plant is one that you almost can sit back and watch grow. When the banana plant is about three-quarters grown, it produces several suckers at its base. Remove all of these, save one, by trimming them at ground level with a sharp knife. The saved shoot is called a follower. It will become your banana plant's main stem after the mother plant fruits.

The "trunk" of the banana plant is actually a densely packed group of concentric leaves, a pseudostem. After the banana plant has grown about thirty leaves, the fruit stem shoots through them from the rhizome and emerges as a terminal inflorescence (a group of flowers at the tip of the stem). The fruit stem matures three to four months after its emergence. Flower bracts soon cover the stem and then roll back almost daily, each exposing a "hand" of bananas. At the beginning of their development, the little hands grow downward, but as they grow, they turn their fingers towards the sun and appear to be growing upside down. This phenomenon is called "negative geotropism".

Banana Harvest

A banana bunch is ready to cut when the fruit is round and plump with no obvious ribs. At this point, the flower bracts will be very dry and easily break off from the fruit tip. To harvest bananas, the stalk of the bunch should be cut well above the top hand of bananas.

Bananas ripen by self-producing heat and ethylene gas. To maximize your banana harvest, pick individual green hands to ripen them for use. Seal the hand in a plastic bag with another ripening banana or a fruit like a red apple. The hand makes use of the gas produced by the ripening fruit and speeds up the process. Place the bag in a cool dark place, like a cupboard (a refrigerator is too cold!). After 24 to 48 hours, remove the ripening fruit. The hand of bananas should be able to finish the ripening process on its own.

After harvest, cut the mother plant down to ground level. The "follower" will take her place for next year's banana growing!

About the author:

Linda is an author of <a href=""http://www.gardening-guides.com/related-articles/how-to/rel ated-how-to.htm""> Gardening Tips Tricks and Howto's</a>&nbsp; of Gardening Guides and the<a href=""http://www.lawnmower-guide.com/product-pages/prod_lawn_care .htm""> Lawn Care</a> section of the Lawnmower Guide.

Sunday, January 13, 2008

The first flowers of spring

Author: Tony Robinson

Article: One of the most thrilling sights for any gardener, from the newest to the most experienced, is the first spring flowers peeking up through the last snow of winter. Spring flowers have long been seen as a sign of new life, and gardeners certainly enjoy seeing these beautiful harbingers of warmer weather.

Whether it is the tiny, delicate blossoms of the snowdrop, the delicate petals of the econite or the subtle beauty of the Irish reticulate, it is hard to beat the beauty of spring flowers. These first delicate blossoms of spring are a sign that the long days of winter are finally over, and that it is time to look forward to warmer weather. Even the most jaded gardeners continue to be excited by the sight of the earliest blossoms making their way through the last snow of winter.

The well named snowdrop is one of the most beloved, and most popular types of flowers for early spring. These delicate blossoms are breathtaking to behold. The common snowdrop, scientific name Galanthus nivalis, features small, delicate blossoms, while the giant snowdrop, known to scientists as the Galanthus elwesil, features striking large early spring blooms.

The Iris reticulate is another favorite early spring bloom. This bulb is one of the most striking flowers in the world of gardening, and it is highly prized for its beauty. The Iris reticulate originally came from the high mountain areas of Western Asia, and it does well in cold climates. The Iris reticulate does best in a well drained bed containing coarse sand or grit.

When caring for an Iris reticulate, it is important not to over water the plant, since this can cause severe damage to the bulb. This plant comes in a wide variety of colors, ranging from a pale amethyst to a deep, dark purple. In addition, the Iris reticulate has been thoroughly hybridized, and a wide variety of hybrid colors, including solids, speckles, stripes and splotches are available as well.

In addition to these somewhat common early spring blooms, there are rarer varieties as well. One of the rarest of late winter and early spring bulbs is the Adonis vernalis. The Adonis appears to be a delicate plant, but it is able to make its way through the snows of late winter to provide a beautiful bloom in March. The Adonis has a beautiful yellow bloom, and it makes a wonderful companion to any landscape. The Adonis can be used anywhere, but it makes a particularly good addition to a winter rock garden.

No matter which types of late winter or early spring blooming flowers you choose, you will be rewarded with beautiful color in your garden as the last days of winter give way to the first days of spring.

About the author: Tony Robinson is an international author and webmaster. In his busy life he finds time to ""Smell the Roses"". For geat tips, techniques and articles visit http://www.rose-bloom.com

Saturday, January 12, 2008

Garden Delights For Midsummer

Author: Marie K Fisher

Article: We have once again reached the wonderful magical time of midsummer, when the garden is aglow with sensational blooms and a fantastic array of colors. Many of these wonderful blooms fill the air with their tantalising perfume.

I often pause for a while especially at twilight when the scent from the blooms are at their stongest, and feel extremely proud of the effort that I have put into my garden.

This is when I really appreciate how worthwhile it has all been.

No doubt your garden is looking really special as well, but if by any chance you feel there are any gaps, or plants that you think could be doing better, might I suggest that you take some inspiration from some of these wonderful blooms which I find truly magnificent.

In my opinion these are some of the blooms that will enhance any garden and delight the senses with their combined scents.

Rose eglanteria - This sweet briar rose is valued for the strong apple aroma which comes from the leaves, but there is also much more than a pink flower in summer, it is followed by a deep red in the autumn. I think that it is an extremely handsome bush, and it also makes an impenetrable hedge.

Agastache faoeniculum (anise hyssop) - This is a stately herbaceous perennial, whose silver green leaves release a liquorice aniseed fragrance. The rich violet blue color flowers are particularly loved by bees, butterflies and goldfinches among others. I find the rich beautiful color delightful when it bursts into my garden in the late summer, and lasts right through to autumn. Cytisus battandeiri (Moroccan Broom) - When planted around the walls of the house or around the patio, the crushed pineapple aroma which comes from the cones of the yellow blossom will pervade the air. It truly excites the senses on the warm still days of June and July, with its wonderful aroma wafting into the house or patio area. It should be encouraged to flower freely so that you get the most from this absolutely wonderful flower.

Magnolia grandiflora - The large chalices are a joy in late summer with a wonderful lemon zest aroma. It should be helped to bloom when young by espalier-training the shoots against a warm sunny wall. Train them horizontally, and shorten new shoots to five leaves in August.

Dianthus (Brymton Red) - These lovely old fashioned dianthus have a lingering clove fragrance and the ""Brymton red"" is a true peacock among them. They yield a brilliant display of single deep red flowers laced with darker markings, and are just scintilating in June. Be sure to deadhead flowers weekly to channel your plants energy into producing more shoots and blooms.

Eucryphia nymansay - This elegant evergreen is famous for its summer and autumn display of large honey scented white flowers. The flower is coveted by nectar seeking bees. It needs a warm and sunny location. I absolutely adore these.

Ferdinand Pitchard - This is an old fashioned rose with the beckoning smell of fresh picked raspberries. The globular pink blooms striped with crimson and purple will be your reward for planting this fatastic rose. It thrives on humis rich soil in full sunlight, and it will bring color to the summer season most beautifully.

Other Flowers To Bring A Fesival Of Color And Delight.

Gladiolus communis - Until recently people looked down their noses at gladiolus but they do make really good border flowers. They are excellent at cramming the other colors, and they barely take any space at ground level.

Scabiosa ""Ace of Spades"" - This is one for the chocoholics, ""Ace of Spades"" is a mass of velvet and maroon with little white pins that have a pincushion effect. What a beautiful flower this is, nestle them among the green foliage of alchemilla for comptempory color scheming. Allow the last flowers to self-sow.

Delphinium Belladonna Group - If you are looking for grace and charm then Belladonna hybrids are for you. They are ideal for summoning a romantic effect, look wonderful around cottages, and bring an English type of charm to your garden. For a full season of color grow with peonies, poppies and dahlias. Cut down the first spikes once they have flowered for a second flush of blooms.

Papaver "" Lady Frederick Moore"" - A charming peach poppy is much softer on the eye than the traditional pillar box red oriental, and is easier to blend with the pastels of early summer. Grow in the sun and hope for gentle weather to prolong this tissue paper like flower.

Monarda ""Capricorn"" - Think magenta, think hardy geranium? Why not try an unusual monarda instead with its beautiful aromatic foliage and spidery petals totally adored by bees. The stunning color and shapes make it a good contender with spikes of lythrum and veronica, best planted in the sun where the soil does not get too dry nor the space too crowded.

LLathyrus latifolius - A delightful sweet pea that is everlasting but without the sweet scent,so you can never quite have it all. However, with the strong aromas from the flowers above this pretty flower, I think that it is worth having in your garden. The flowers are much bigger than the annual L.odoratus,with iridescent shells for petals and twining tendrils that obliginly twirlup small trees or wires on sunny fences. Give them the occasional folier feed and cut down last years foliage in winter.

Acunthus mallis - Most perennials have unremarkable leaves, but not this stunning bear's breeches. Acunthus makes a versatile backdrop for classic herbaceous borders or jungle style foliage. The dark glossy leaves and spikes of dusky hooded flowers will make a show all summer long. Water well in dry summers.

Achillea ""Walther Funcke"" - If pastels are not your bag, spice things up instead with paprika shades of ""Walter Funcke""! Add a scattering of yellow day lilies and mix in the wispy blonde leaves of ponytail grass, (Stipa tenuissima), for good measure. It makes a compact drought tolerant mix for a sunny border where space is tight.

Thalictrum delavayi - Verbena bonariensis is not the only see-through plant. The tall meadow rue is wonderful airy for the front of a border, with perenial ferny foliage and clouds of tiny, fluffy flowers on skinny purple stems. Grow on the cool side of the garden where the soil does not get too dry in summer.

These are just a few of my favorite wonderfully scented flowers and plants that I think will add a soft to dramatic color to your garden. So why not let your imagination and flair for color work magic on your garden. I can tell you that I feel like a true artist when my garden is in full bloom.

About the author: Marie K Fisher is an avid gardening enthusiast with a passion for exotic flowers and wondeful colors. She is a regular contributor to Garden Center Showplace a leading online Garden Center. For more details of the superb range of products offered, and also more Featured Articles And Tips on Gardening visit <a href=""http://www.gardencentershowplace.com"">http://www.gardencent ershowplace.com</a>

Friday, January 11, 2008

Pond Pumps Vs Pool Pumps

Author: Danielle Dickinson

Article: Pond Pumps Vs Pool Pumps

Often people install pool pumps to run their water feature because of the initial cost savings of purchasing such a pump. This is ill-advised for a variety of reasons; most importantly, the use of a pool pump can lead to massive increases in your electricity bill.

Also, many unscrupulous landscapers and some retailers provide quotations that include the supply of a pool pump rather than a pond pump in order to reduce the final cost of the quotation in an effort to win the work. They do not inform the recipient of the quotation of the running costs of a pool pump.

Simple arithmetic proves that the initial cost savings of purchasing a pool pump to run your water feature can cause a blow out of staggering proportions in your annual budget. This is especially true when keeping fish or plants, which requires that your pump is running 24 hours a day to oxygenate the water.

Running Costs

To calculate your operating costs per year multiply watts your pump uses per hour, by the number of hours you run it per year (if you run it 24/7 then use 8,760 hours per year), then divide by 1,000 to convert it to kilowatts, then multiply by your cost per kWh (kilowatt-hour) ($0.1447 in QLD – see www.energexinstitute.com).

watts x 8,760 / 1,000 x $kWh = $ operating costs per year

Example 1:

A Blagdon Amphibious P8000 Fountain Pump (169 watt)

169 (watt) x 8760 (hours per year) / 1000 x $0.1447 = $214.22 per year

Example 2:

An Average 1.0 HP Pool Pump (750 watt)

750 (watt) x 8760 (hours per year) / 1000 x $0.1447 = $950.68 per year

Total Cost Savings = $736.46 per year ($184.12 every quarter!)

Below we have compared the smallest pool pump generally available against the largest pond pump generally available:

Example 3:

An Aquashift 15000 Pump (210 watt)

210 (watt) x 8760 (hours per year) / 1000 x $0.1447 = $266.19 per year

Example 4:

A 0.75 HP Pool Pump (550 watt)

550 (watt) x 8760 (hours per year) / 1000 x $0.1447 = $697.16 per year

Total cost savings = $430.97 per year ($107.74 per quarter!)

Above we have only considered operational costs; however there are a number of other considerations when comparing a pond pump to a pool pump:

Guarantee/Warranty

All Pond Pumps supplied by Water Features Online are quality pumps and are backed up by Continuously Rated Guarantees of varying lengths (2-5 years). Continuously Rated means that the pump is guaranteed to run 24 HOURS A DAY for the period of the guarantee. Conversely, while Pool Pumps may be of good quality, the guarantees are NOT continuously rated and they are usually guaranteed to run for approximately 6 hours a day (read the fine print!) for the period of the guarantee. If a pool pump is run for 24 hours a day then this effectively reduces a 2 year guarantee to a 6 month guarantee.

Noise

This is a factor often overlooked. Pond Pumps are generally submersible and therefore silent. Pool Pumps are generally dry mounted somewhere near the water feature and can be very noisy. This is counterproductive when introducing the sound of water into a garden.

Maintenance

Both Pool and Pond Pumps require some basic maintenance, they need to be kept clean and free of debris. However, Pond Pumps have fewer moving parts than Pool Pumps, therefore the likelihood of breakdowns are greater in a Pool Pump. Often the seals on Pool Pumps degrade and need replacing regularly whereas a Pond Pump generally does not have a seal.

About the author: Danielle Dickinson is an avid water feature enthusiast. She is a regular contributor to Gardening Magazines. Visit her website <a href>http://www.waterfeaturesonline.com.au for more information on building and maintaining any type of Water Feature as well as a huge range of water gardening products.

Thursday, January 10, 2008

Gardening in Containers

Author: Jill Dow

Article: Container gardening is a wonderful idea whether you have a garden bed or not. It's perfect for apartments or small areas, but can also really enhance your patio. Here are some tips on gardening in containers.

Every Garden can benefit from the addition of container gardens. They add interst and variety, plus are easily moved around. If you live in an apartment or have a small area to work with this may be the only solution for you.

<B>Your Container</B>

Your container can be pretty much anything and is only limited to your imagination. Just make sure there is adequate drainage for your plants. I love old buckets, discarded kitchen pots and baskets for a rustic feel. For a formal garden choose a more traditional container.

Regardless of your choice of container, make sure it's not to big or too small for your planting.

<B>Your Soil</B>

Do not use garden soil for your container plants. Garden soil is too heavy, dries out too quickly and will not provide the needed nutrients your container plants need. You can find good potting soil at your local garden center or you can mix your own.

To mix your own make sure you include soil, peat, sand and a slow release fertilizer.

<B>Maintenance</B>

You'll need to pay close attention to your container grown plants -- much more than plants in your garden beds. The soil will dry out more quickly so frequent watering it a must. You'll also need to fertilize more frequently. Water in the morning or evening whenever the soil is almost dry and water thoroughly until water comes out the bottom drainage holes.

One thing I really love about container gardening is mobility. If a particular grouping doesn''t work you can simply move your pots and change your garden design.

Have fun, experiment and be creative!

About the author: Jill has been an avid gardener for the last 15 years. She faces the challenges of New Mexico's high desert at 6800 feet. Resource websites are http://www.bulbandseed.com and www.agardenwalk.com

Wednesday, January 09, 2008

Gardening - Using Bulbs in Your Landscaping

Author: Jill Dow

Article: Naturalized bulbs look beautiful in a wooded setting. You can plant them and leave them to multiply. After the bulbs bloom the foliage will die down, but you can interplant bulbs with ground covers for a carefree and beautiful garden.

For a natural look you should arrange your bulbs informally. If you toss them and plant them where they land, with small adjustments for spacing, it'll look much better than if you arrange them.

Bulbs also work well in a perrenial garden. When your bulbs finish blooming your perrenials are just ready to get started and they're now filling in the spaces and hiding the soon to be dormant foliage of your bulbs. This is a great way to extend color in the garden for a good 6 weeks.

Summer bulbs can be used to fill in areas that need color when perrenials have finished. Keep in mind that most summer bulbs do need to be dug up and stored over the winter. The good part is that next season when you replant them you can totally redesign with them.

Whatever your garden style, make sure you add some bulbs. They'll provide you with years of enjoyment!

Favorite Picks

Early Spring

Crocus,Grape Hyacinth,Early Tuplips,Hyacinths,Snow Drops

Mid Spring

Daffodil,Crown Imperial,Iris,Tulips

Summer

Dahlias,Gladiolus,Lily

About the author: Jill has been an avid gardener for the last 15 years. She faces the challenges of New Mexico's high desert at 6800 feet. Resource websites are http://www.bulbandseed.com and www.agardenwalk.com