Monday, March 31, 2008

Decorative Garden Accents

Author: Bonnie P. Carrier

Article: Think of your garden like you would a room in your home. After planning the shape, tilling the soil, choosing the right plants the last step is to add those personal touches. And just like indoors this is accomplished with accessories.

What type of accessories or accents you add will depend on what you like and what type of garden you've designed. For example in a formal type garden you probably would not add whimsical looking birdhouses or a regal looking statue would look out of place in a cottage style garden.

That being said, nothing is written in stone just as indoors the garden should reflect your personality. Which simply means if you love something use it.

The following are examples of some of the accents that can be used to dress up your gardens.

1)Gates: Whether they are part of an existing fencing system or just free standing, a gate will add an architectural detail. Wooden, iron, plain or whimsically decorated let the gate reflect your personality.

2)Gazing Globes: Beginning in Victorian times gardeners have tucked these decorative spheres into their gardens. Available in a wide array of colors and sizes ranging from 10 to 14in, place one on a pedestal and watch how suddenly things begin to look magical.

3)Decorative Planters: Terra Cotta, Stone, Metal or Resin – Plain, Colorful, Textured or a Whimsical piece. Placing decorative planters filled with beautiful flowers within your garden adds interest and a focal point.

These can be moved around the garden or replanted later in the season with new plants.

There are so many types of planters to choose from, just have some fun with them. Also, any container you happen to have whether it's an old watering can or one lone rubber boot can be made into a decorative container as long as it has some type of drainage.

4)Statues: Choose from Cherubs, Religious Figures, Lions, Birds or Frogs. They can be large or small made of marble, stone or resin. Adding one or several give interest and whimsy to any size garden.

5)Furniture: Place a bench in or near a garden and it immediately says, "Sit, Relax and Enjoy". Choose materials ranging from Cedar, Pine to Metal, buy something new or scrounge around your attic or basement for an older piece not being used anymore.

6)Birdbaths: A functional and decorative focal point. Most commonly seen birdbaths are shallow simple basins that sit on a pedestal, usually made of cement, porcelain or plastic. Mini versions are becoming popular for placing on patios and walkways.

7)Fountains: Water is a necessity in the garden; therefore having a fountain just seems natural. They provide a soothing sound and become a beautiful accent. The most common styles include; wall mounted, free standing, single basin and multi-tiered.

8)Birdhouses: Found at nurseries, home improvement, discount stores and flea markets, this is probably the easiest of accessories to add.

They can be simple square wooden boxes to elaborately detailed versions; you might even try your hand at making your own. Mount or hang them on a tree, place on top of a pole or simply sit one on an old bench or chair.

If your also hoping for them to take on tenants, make sure to check dimensions as different species of birds prefer certain sizes.

On two trees that sat back away from the house we attached simple rectangular shaped wooden houses with small entrance holes in the front.

Each spring we were rewarded with two families of beautiful Blue Birds making a home in those houses. Watching mom and dad first preparing the inside then little heads peeking out and finally the first flight was marvelous.

9)Sundials: Here's an accent that may not be common but has been around since early civilization. Of course in the beginning their sole purpose was to measure time. You can still mark time with them but what a unique decorative accent they'd make in your garden.

10)Stepping Stones: Another fun way to accessorize your garden. Even if you don't use them to walk on one or two placed amongst your plants look wonderful. Plain or decorated with a picture, pick whatever suites your garden.

I've used simple terra-cotta color stones around colorful flowers, light colored cement ones with embedded pebbles and bits of ground glass that sparkle around shrubs.

Around shrubs or flowers that attract butterflies or hummingbirds find stones with a print on them to match the theme of the plant.

Whether it's an elaborate water feature, a simple resin turtle or something just for fun like the tree face picture at right, keep in mind it's just like dressing a room in your home.

After all the main elements in place the final touch is to embellish and personalize with decorative accents.

This is a share ware article. Give this article away for free on your site, or include it as part of any paid package as long as the entire article is left intact including this notice. Copyright © 2005 bonnie carrier.

About the author: Bonnie P. Carrier is the creator of Savvy Home Decorating & Savvy Outdoor Decorating. She is the mother to two grown daughters and a very spoiled 4yr old Blue Merle Sheltie named Toby. Stop by for information and ideas for both inside and outside your home.

www.savvy-home-decorating.com www.savvyoutdoordecorating.com

Sunday, March 30, 2008

Popular types of bulb flowers

Author: Tony Robinson

Article: Bulbs are among the most attractive, and easiest to care for, flowers in the garden. A bulb garden in full bloom can be a wonderful, attractive sight for any gardener.

Another great thing about bulbs is the sheer variety in which they come. There are bulb plants to satisfy virtually any taste, and bulb plants come in a staggering variety of colors, sizes, shapes and textures.

Even within bulb families, there is quite a bit of variety. The humble tulip, for instance, boasts a variety of different shaped blooms, from the traditional bell shaped to a number of more exotic varieties. With all these varieties to choose from, finding just the right bulbs for your garden can be difficult. We are, therefore, providing this guide to popular bulb flowers, including their optimum growing conditions.

Crocus Bulb Type: Corm Sunlight: Full sun or partial shade Water: Regular watering during growth and bloom periods

Dahlia Bulb Type: Tuberous Root Sunlight: Full sun; partial shade in hot climates Water: Regular watering during growth and bloom periods

Galanthus (Snowdrop) Bulb Type: True Bulb Sunlight: Full sun or partial shade Water: Regular watering during growth and bloom periods

Gladiolus Bulb Type: Corm Sunlight: Full sun Water: Regular watering during growth and bloom periods

Hererocallis (Daylily) Bulb Type: Tuberous Root Sunlight: Full sun or light shade Water: Regular watering during growing season

Hyacinthus (Dutch Hyacinth) Bulb Type: True Bulb Sunlight: Full sun Water: Regular watering during growth and bloom periods

Iris Bulb Type: Rhizome Sunlight: Full sun or light shade Water: Regular watering during growing season

Lilium (Asiatic and Oriental Hybrid Lilies) Bulb Type: True Bulb Sunlight: Full sun or partial shade Water: Regular watering is required. The root zone must never be allowed to dry out.

Muscari (Grape Hyacinth) Bulb Type: True Bulb Sunlight: Full sun or light shade Water: Regular watering during growth and bloom periods

Narcissus (Daffodil, Narcissus) Bulb Type: True Bulb Sunlight: Full sun Water: Regular watering during growth and bloom periods

Tulipa (Tulip) Bulb Type: True Bulb Sunlight: Full sun Water: Regular watering during growth and bloom periods

No matter what types of bulb flowers you choose to plant, if you follow the instructions carefully and give them the growing conditions they need to thrive, you will be rewarded with many seasons of beautiful blooms from these spectacular plants.

About the author: Tony Robinson is an international author and webmaster. In his busy life he finds time to ""Smell the Roses"". For geat tips, techniques and articles visit http://www.rose-bloom.com

Saturday, March 29, 2008

Hydroponic Gardens

Author: Lee Dobbins

Article: Hydroponic gardening might seem very scientific and difficult but, in fact, it is as simple - and maybe even easier - as regular gardening. They both have many elements in common that being the need for light, humidity, water and nutrients.

Hydroponic gardening, however, uses no soil. A soil substitute is used to hold the roots and the nutrients are carried by the water. You can do hydroponic gardening indoors and plants do respond well and thrive with this type of system.

One vital consideration in hydroponic gardening is the nutrient solution. The solution must maintain a pH level of 5 to 6 after it is diluted. In hydroponics gardening, the plants need to be watered more than three times a day which is typically done automatically using a pump and timer.

For indoor hydroponic gardens, the best temperature is between 71 to 76 degrees Fahrenheit. There can be exceptions to this depending on the types of plants you are growing so it is best to know the optimum temp of any plant you intend to grow.

Just like regular plants, those grown hydroponically need to get enough light. The amount of light, of course, depends on the plants but natural light is best. If you cannot provide enough natural light, artificial light such as high pressure sodium bulbs are a good substitute.

Plants love humidity so if you are contemplating an indoor hydroponic garden think about installing a humidifier in the room. Once you get your room hot enough, the air should be able to hold enough moisture for the plants, but a little bit of humidity can help. Not too much though, or you may end up with a mold problem in your home!

Many people prefer growing their plants using hydroponics as it can be totally automated. It is actually much less work than a traditional garden as there is no weeding or digging in dirt. The hydroponics system can be totally automated resulting in less work while still providing the exact amount of nutrients your plants need. This type of gardening is also more economical and the water can be re-used.

If you are thinking about starting a hydroponic garden but don't know where to begin, take a trip down to your local hardware store, many stores these days sell DIY home hydroponics systems that will get you set up in no time.

About the author: Lee Dobbins writes for <a href=""http://www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com"">Backyard Garden And Patio</a> where you can get more great gardening and landscaping tips.

Friday, March 28, 2008

Adding a Bird Feeder to your Garden

Author: Johann Erickson

Article: If you are the type of person who enjoys all aspects of nature, and loves to see it right at your door or outside the window, consider hanging some bird feeders that are suitable to the feathered population of your region.

A little research at the library or over the Internet, will tell you what type of birds are likely to frequent your area in the various seasons. Once you know that, you can look up their dietary preferences, and from there you'll be able to choose bird feeders that will deliver the appropriate blend of foods, in an easily accessible way. Bear in mind that bird feeders which are filled with large size seeds, or fragments of corn and peanuts, must have an adequate opening to dispense the contents, or the birds will realize they can't get at the food, and will go elsewhere.

Another consideration, is where to place your feeder in terms of height, and location relative to the house or the "traffic" of humans or pets. Some birds that become accustomed to the presence of humans, will feed regardless of your presence, but more easily startled species may refuse to come down out of trees if there is too much activity around the feeding station.

There are all kinds of beautiful and decorative bird feeders for species that peck their food from the ground. These include charming figures such as angels, fairies or cherubs, holding out bowls, or the large blossom of a flower, which serves as the dish for cracked corn, and other feeds.

Birds that prefer not to light while they dine, will appreciate one of the hanging <a href=""http://www.onlinediscountmart.com/birdfeeders.html"">bird feeders</a> that you can suspend from a tree branch, or a special upright bracket attached to a patio railing. You'll find a wide variety of shapes and styles, in colorful stained glass, and shaped like gazebos, barns, or natural wood logs. But again, keep in mind the type of seed you'll be putting in it. There can be quite a difference in what is appropriate to the species of birds in your area, ranging in size from the very tiny thistle seed known as niger, which is fed to finches, and the larger, black and white striped sunflower seeds favored by Blue Jays, and other big birds. If you want to avoid the problems that seed size can cause, you might opt for the open hanging dish, which come in charming designs like a large flower blossom, a lily pad with a frog, or a decorative arrangement of leaves, with a miniature gazing ball.

Of course, one of the most delightful birds you can attract through the type of flowers you plant, as well as extra feeders, is the hummingbird. These tiny, and exquisitely colored birds, will dash and flit around your garden, adding to the brightness and activity in your yard. <a href=""http://www.onlinediscountmart.com/hummingbird-feeders.html"" >Hummingbird feeders</a> are generally made of plastic, to avoid the breakage possible with glass. Since they feed on the natural nectar of flowers, what you put in humming bird feeders is not seed, but a solution that you can buy powdered, or make yourself. It's as simple as boiling 1 cup of water, and ¼ cup of sugar. You can make larger batches and store it in the fridge, because the feeders will need changing every few days to avoid fermentation and spoilage of the solution. Wash in a solution of dish soap and 10% bleach, and rinse completely before refilling. One tip to help avoid spoilage, is to hang your humming bird feeders out of direct sunlight.

Whichever type of bird feeders you choose to brighten up the yard or garden, you'll reap the rewards with hours of entertainment.

About the author: Johann Erickson is the owner of <a href=""http://www.onlinediscountmart.com"">Online Discount Mart</a> and <a href=""http://www.tvproducts4less.com"">TV Products 4 Less</a>. He is also a contributing writer for sites such as <a href=""http://www.helpfulhomeideas.com"">Helpful Home Ideas</a>. Please include an active link to our site if you'd like to reprint this article.

Thursday, March 27, 2008

Lawn Disease and Solutions

Author: Linda Paquette

Article: Every lawn, whether new or established, is susceptible to a variety of lawn diseases. Most lawn disease starts with a fungus. Fungi are an oddity because they don't set seeds; instead, they propagate by distributing spores in their surrounding area. Some of the spores are picked up by wind or animals and distributed in new locations.

One of the biggest problems in controlling lawn diseases is diagnosis. By the time signs of infection are evident, the fungus that causes it is often difficult to control. Although there are dozens of types of lawn disease, most can be prevented through regular lawn care. Most fungus spores lie dormant until conditions are right for them to grow and infect your lawn. Generally, fungus spores need warm temperatures, a moist environment, a source of nutrition and a susceptible host. Although you can't control the weather, you can deprive them of the nutrients they need as well as a susceptible host.

Water your lawn deeply and infrequently to deprive fungus of the damp environment it needs. In addition to helping the prevention of lawn disease, deep and infrequent watering encourages your turf to sink deeper roots. Water only when the surface soil is dry to your touch and then water to a depth of two to three inches. You can gauge how much water your lawn is getting by "planting" a small container (such as a tuna or cat food can) in a corner of your yard. In addition, schedule irrigation in the morning to give excess water a chance to evaporate.

Heavy thatch layers (over ½ inch) hold both heat and moisture and provide fungus with a ready supply of nutrients. Thatch also impedes drainage and blocks the airflow your lawn needs to thrive. Annual core aeration in the spring is the best way to control thatch buildup. You can also control thatch during the growing season by maintaining your lawn at a 2 ½ to 3 inch height and cutting no more than &#8531; of the height when you mow.

Mowing time is also a good time to check your lawn for signs of disease. "Fairy rings", "frog-eyes", brown patches and other irregularities may signify the beginning of a problem. However, before you purchase a "remedy" it's best to have an infected patch inspected. Dig and take samples to your extension agency or to a recognized lawn care professional.

Many strains of fungus quickly develop a resistance to the best fungicides. Controlling active fungus is truly a case where "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure". Start your lawn disease prevention plan by planting only disease resistant grass hybrids whether beginning a new lawn or reseeding patches of an old one.

About the author: Linda is author of <a href=""http://www.lawnmower-guide.com/product-pages/prod_lawn_care .htm"">The Lawn Care</a> section of <a href=""http://www.lawnmower-guide.com""> Lanwmowers-Guide.com</a>

Wednesday, March 26, 2008

Ten Things To Consider Before Buying A Bird House

Author: Cedar Creek Woodshop

Article: <center><b><u>Ten Things To Consider When Purchasing A Bird House</u></b></center>

<center>When you decide to buy one bird house or more -- be aware that there are many designs being sold that are unsuitable for the birds. These houses may not attract any birds or the types of birds you wish, or they may actually be harmful. Many are very cute and look like little decorated houses. There is nothing wrong with these, but they are usually more appropriate as indoor decoration than as good safe homes for wild birds. Below is a checklist of the ten most important features of a good working bird house. Before you put a house out for wild birds, be sure it has these ten features. If it is decorative and still has these features, then it is fine to put it out.</center> <center><b><u>The Ten Things:</u></b></center> <b>1. No Perch</b> Tree holes in the wild have no perches, so the birds that use nest boxes do not need them. They can be a disadvantage in that they may attract House Sparrows, an invasive species that often takes over nests from our native hole-nesting birds.

<b>2.</b> Diameter Of Entrance Hole Most of our common hole-nesting birds can use an entrance hole 1-1/2 inches in diameter. This size also keeps out Starlings, another invasive species that takes over nest boxes from native species.

<b>3.</b> Inside Flooring Dimensions The inside dimensions of the box are important and should be at least 4 inches by 4 inches so that there is room for the young to develop.

<b>4.</b> Overall Height Of House The distance from the bottom of the entrance hole to the floor of the box should be at least 5 inches. This keeps the developing young well down in the box and away from predators that might approach the entrance hole.

<b>5.</b> Easy Access For Cleaning You must be able to open the box, either on the side, front, or top. This helps in two ways: to monitor the progress and health of the young; and to clean out the box at the end of the season.

<b>6.</b> Ventilation There must be holes or slits at the top of the box sides or along the top of the front of the box to let hot air out when the sun beats down on the box in summer.

<b>7.</b> Drain Holes The bottom of the box needs to have holes or cut off corners to allow any water to drain out of the box.

<b>8.</b> Mounting Check to see if there is some way that you can attach the box to a pole, such as holes or a bracket.

<b>9.</b> Wood Material Of Choice Be sure that the materials the box is made of are 3/4 inch thick wood or a similar material that will insulate the birds from cold and heat. The only exception to wood is Purple Martin Housing -- many are made out of Metal.

<b>10.</b> Roof Overhang The roof should overhang the entrance hole by 1 to 2 inches. This both shades the entrance hole and keeps the rain out.

Courtesy: <a href=""http://www.cedarcreekwoodshop.com"">Cedar Creek Woodshop</a>

About the author: Here at Cedar Creek Woodshop we have been building and designing Outdoor Patio furniture, Bird Houses, Bird Feeders and More!! Come in and take a look around!!

Tuesday, March 25, 2008

Fall Flowering Bulbs

Author: Linda Jenkinson

Article: Deciduous trees dazzle us with the brilliance of the golds, oranges and reds they display before dropping their leaves in the autumn. However, you don't have to be satisfied with autumn leaf color alone. Consider planting fall flower bulbs.

Spring-flowering bulbs are universal symbols of spring. Many of us wait to see the cheerful little crocus as it pops through the last of the winter snows. The delicate narcissus, the colorful tulip, and the sunny daffodil are all spring flowering bulbs that bring out smiles after long, colorless winters. Just as spring-flowering bulbs bring a welcome burst of color as they usher in the season, fall flower bulbs offer you a last blast of vibrancy to keep in memory through a long, colorless winter.

There are two main differences between spring flower bulbs and fall flower bulbs. Spring flower bulbs are planted in the fall and need a cold period of winter dormancy to flower. Fall flower bulbs are typically planted in the spring or summer. Most fall flower bulbs aren't winter hardy and need to be lifted in the autumn and stored until time for the next spring planting.

When selecting fall flower bulbs, always choose those that are firm and blemish-free. A good rule of thumb to remember is "the larger the bulb, the larger the bloom." The bulb is actually a tiny womb for a flower. In fact, if you split a bulb in half, you frequently can see the bud and in some cases, even see the flower. Everything the flower needs to grow, except water, is contained inside a bulb. Although the differences between them are slight, many of these flower storehouses that we commonly call bulbs are actually rhizomes, corms and tubers. Look for these labels in addition to "bulbs" when purchasing fall-flower bulbs.

The dahlia, which grows from a tuber, is a beautiful late-summer flower that blooms until the first frost. Blooms can range from button to dinner-plate size in virtually every color except solid blue. As all fall flower bulbs, they are easy to plant and easy to care for, requiring only that you lift them in the fall for winter storage.

Colchicums are perhaps the best known but least planted fall flower bulbs. They are unique in that they only need sunlight to grow and will bloom sitting on your potting bench or even on your kitchen table! Large flowers, resembling the crocus, are typically pink. Although they need soil to make roots and foliage, because the bulb must be planted partly exposed, colchicums are a target for snails and slugs, which will peel the bulbs like an onion.

The saffron crocus is a fall flower bulb that does double duty in your flower garden. Lilac flowers display the burnt orange-red stigmas that are the source of the spice, saffron. The flowers only last for two days. Pick the stigmas on the second day, air dry them and you have just harvested flower and fruit gardening guides homegrown saffron to season your dishes.

About the author: <a href=""http://www.gardening-guides.com/related-articles/flower-gar dening/related-flower-gardening.htm""> Tulip Flower and Bulb Flowers </a>section of <a href=""http://www.gardening-guides.com"">Gardening-Guides.com</a>

Monday, March 24, 2008

Aluminium And Wooden Greenhouses

Author: Garry John

Article:

An important addition to any British back garden, <a href=""http://www.uk-greenhouses.co.uk"">greenhouses</a> are firmly established in the British way of life. It's probably the inclement weather that drives the british gardener 'inside'. If you are visiting this site then you are probably thinking about obtaining a new greenhouse. It is possible you don't know the type of greenhouse you need or even how to decide on the type of greenhouse. Greenhouse design was revolutionised with the arrival of aluminium frames and the scarcity of pine. This article takes a brief look at the differences between metal and wooden greenhouses.</p>

<b>Wooden Greenhouses</b></p>

<a href=""http://www.uk-greenhouses.co.uk/timber.html"">Wooden Greenhouses</a> are the choice for the traditionalist and the expert gardener. They are commonly made from Canadian Western Red Cedar, which is renowned for it's exceptional long life outdoors as a result of it's effective rot resistance. Wooden greenhouses are the traditional style of greenhouse before the aluminium greenhouses and <a href=""http://www.uk-greenhouses.co.uk/plastic.html"">plastic greenhouses</a> became more popular towards the end of the last century.</p>

A timber greenhouse will obviously blend in naturally with your garden and will become an integral feature rather than something of an eyesore which you wish to hide away. Timber is also the choice of the expert gardener and it is generally agreed that it is the best material for a greenhouse. One of the main reasons is that the red cedar greenhouses are much better at maintaining a constant temperature than aluminium ones, which obviously leads to a healthier and more natural environment. An experienced gardener will know the benefit of having things to hand and a wooden frame will allow the gardener to easily fix hooks and shelves exactly where he wants them, so those all important greenhouse accessories are to hand. The wooden frame also makes it easier to fix an extra layer of insulation of plastic bubble sheeting, such severe weather conditions prevail.</p>

The best time to add a protective coat to a timber frame is before winter sets in. Choose a good day in the late autumn and give the frame any attention it needs. Look for any wear and tear and treat it immediately. Most good timber frames come with a ten year gaurantee, but don't wait for 10 years before checking.</p>

Wooden greenhouses are slightly more expensive than aluminium and plastic ones, but do offer more to the experienced gardener. Aluminium and plastic greenhouses are a better choice for the beginner before upgrading to a timber greenhouse.</p>

<b>Aluminium Greenhouses</b></p>

A major advantage of <a href=""http://www.uk-greenhouses.co.uk/aluminium.html"">aluminium greenhouses</a> is that they are relatively cheap and maintenance free. They are the best choice of greenhouse if your priority is low maintenance. However, you should be aware of the advantages of other types of greenhouse. For example, with wooden greenhouses it is easy to fix extra shelves and hookes, inside and out. Aluminium is certainly easier to maintain than a wooden greenhouse, but care should be taken to keep all structural components as clean as possible to deter pests and disease.Aluminium greenhouses are certainly the most popular at the moment and part of the attractiveness is the flat pack packaging and (relatively easy) self assembly. This helps keep the cost down and aluminium is the value for money choice of greenhouse.</p>

Before erecting an aluminium greenhouse, there are certain considerations. Firstly you should decide upon the location of the greenhouse. Somewhere easily accessible during bad weather would be good. Observe areas of your garden during sunny days to see which parts get the most sunlight. Some protection from wind would be good, but not at the expense of blocking out light. Also, be aware of any stray footballs from next door !</p>

If you're after a value for money and low maintenance greenhouse then aluminium is a good choice. You may lose some of the aesthetic qualities of a wooden greenhouse, but you do benefit from modern technology and design.</p>

About the author: Garry John contributes to several gardening and home improvement sites such as <a href=""http://www.uk-greenhouses.co.uk"">greenhouses</a> and <a href=""http://www.sheds.gb.com"">sheds</a>

Sunday, March 23, 2008

Choosing the Right Garden Furniture

Author: Johann Erickson

Article: Chinese oak is a very dense, and fine-grained hardwood, with a heart that is a lighter shade of brown, lending those sections a pinkish tone that is reminiscent of Western Red Cedar. Tannic acid is a natural substance in the Chinese Oak, which acts as a deterrent to fungus and insects, in the same manner as resinous oil does for teak, and tannin in cedar, as well. It looks very much like a quality teak wood, and is considered to be slightly harder than the Red Oak. Oak is a traditional choice for outdoor furniture, and is generally considered a good value.

Cedar is a material that many people prefer for both its rustic and "down home" appeal. A softwood, cedar has the same tannic oils as Chinese oak, which prevents attack by mildew when the wood is consistently wet, deep down. A very durable wood, it's estimated to have 80% of the strength of oak, but is a much lighter material, important when it comes to moving chairs or seats for mowing the lawn. Natural Red Cedar is extremely popular, so much so, that it is often reproduced out of other materials, so check and make sure your furniture is real red cedar, and not a look alike. Northern White Cedar is also popular, and provides a lighter, brighter look to your patio sets and swings or loungers. If you acquire plain wood garden furniture and want to finish it, try a single coat of a semi-transparent stain that has sun-screening properties. Otherwise, it can be left to age to a natural silver-gray.

Teak is an extremely durable, tight-grained hardwood, that is not only strong, but extremely attractive, and comes in a range of natural shades. The rubber and natural oil content provide extra protection against fungus that can set in when the wood is wet for prolonged periods. It's so impervious to the weather, that some people leave their garden furniture outside, year-round without covers. Natural teak that is relatively "new", has a sheen from the oils released in the cutting of the wood. This disappears after a few days outdoors, and unfinished teak that is left to age, will turn a lovely, silvery-gray color. At that point, it may look as if it needs paint, but paint is not likely to adhere properly, due to the natural oil content of the wood.

Mahogany is more a choice for indoor than <a href=""http://www.onlinediscountmart.com/garden-furniture.html"">ga rden furniture</a>, but it certainly adds a touch of class to the patio. Known for its strength and weather-resistance, this hardwood produced in the tropics is naturally resistant to rot, insects and fungus. The natural color ranges from a rich, deep brown, all the way up through deep, dark reds and even sometimes to a purplish tinge. There is minimal shrinkage with weathering, and if you choose to put some maintenance work into it, instead of leaving it to weather on its own, try regular applications of a water-repellant.

About the author: Johann Erickson is a contributing writer for sites such as <a href=""http://www.helpfulhomeideas.com"">Helpful Home Ideas</a>. Please include an active link to our site if you'd like to reprint this article.

Saturday, March 22, 2008

Patio Awnings

Author: Garry John

Article:

In these days of climate change, the UK summer is believe or not, getting warmer and sunnier. Whilst this gives us opportunity to enjoy more time in the garden and sitting on the <a href=""http://www.patios-and-decking.co.uk"">patio</a>. It also means we need to take measures to protect against the sun's harmful rays. This is where a <a href=""http://www.uk-awnings-online.co.uk/patio.html"">patio awning</a> comes in.</p>

Many properties have <a href=""http://www.double-glazing-online.co.uk"">french windows</a> or patio doors leading onto the patio or decking area of the garden. This area has been much under used and folks do not realise the benefits from having an awning attached above the french doors and the extra dimension this will give. It is like having another living room. With the shelter the awning provides, the patio can be used regardless of the prevailing weather conditions.</p>

As previously discussed, the patio awning will provide protection from the harmful ultra voilet rays, which is a major concern in modern times. In addition, the awning will obviously protect from summer rain as well, which means you will not have to keeping dodging the showers and moving furniture in and out. As the furniture is protected from sun and rain, the awning will help stop the elements damaging the furniture.</p>

The awning will basically give you a second dining room as well as living room and you will be able to enjoy all your meals outside under the protective canvas. The awning will offer some protection for barbeques as well and offer some insurance against the unpredictable summer showers. Not only will you be able to dine alfresco, but also with some privacy from onlooking neighbours.</p>

Patio awnings is generally more expensive than you may imagine, particularly if you require a tailor made one. Generally speaking you will not need planning permission for a patio awning, but it's always wise to double check with your local authority. The fabric generally used for a patio awning is a teflon coated fabric which protects against the elemensts and is treated with an anti-mildew coating. They will also be ""UV-stablished"" to resist fading. The treatments should be gauranteed by the manufacturer.</p>

A patio awning gains you extra living space and allows you to enjoy some alfresco dining for an extended summer.</p>

About the author: Garry John contributes regularly to gardening sites such as <a href=""http://www.uk-lawnmowers.co.uk"">lawn mowers</a> and <a href=""http://www.furniture-gardens.co.uk"">garden furniture</a>.

Friday, March 21, 2008

Lawn Mowers Starting Engine Problems

Author: Andrew Caxton

Article: Lawnmowers Hot Engines Starting Difficulties

Cold weather might be the most typical known problem relating lawnmowers starting difficulties. Your mower could cause problems as well when the engine is hot. Most garden owners using traditional gas mowers realize that they don't start as smoothly as it should when the engine is hot. What to do when this problem happens? We describe how to overcome this trouble and what to do about it.

What are the reasons by which hot engines don't start as they should be? Well, basically starting engine problems are based on the fuel. If the engine has been working longer than it does normally, it becomes too hot and the fuel can't circulate correctly. That is caused by the way in which vapor blocks it, and then the engine won't start as it should. Sometimes, engines don't start at all forcing some lawn mower parts work much harder than they use to do it, increasing the chance to break them down.

Once the a mower engine has started, it will gain temperature until it was shut off. While a mower or lawn tractor engine is working, is when the highest volume of vapor circulates around. Therefore, this is the time during more chances to obstruct the engine are bigger too. We would suggest in not working during extremely hot temperatures. If you have been working in a hot weather, and have turned off the engine, you might experience a starting problem, please wait a few minutes until the engine is totally cold, then try to start it back again.

What other problems could it be?

Mower starting problem might be for many reasons. The most known is due to hot temperatures, which has been detailed above. However, other facts would affect to the engine, avoiding it to start as it should be. It's well known when summer approaches that gas refiners choose other fuel blends. Usually, they use offer lower volatility fuels instead of higher ones. It is caused by the way in which hot temperatures carries fuel to evaporate easier. The higher volatility fuel the more vapour is created, and therefore much more engine blocking chances exist.

Automatic lawnmower designs

Gas mowers have been around for a while. It's time for modern garden tools. Let robot mowers do the hard job. These automatic lawnmowers are battery powered without any of the necessities for control by an operator with a control system. You won't need to handle anything; just set up once an inbuilt controlling device and that's all, let others do the work while you are reading your favorite magazine.

About the author: A. Caxton is the webmaster of http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com. Andrew used to publish mower technical reviews. At his site you can find reviews on <a href=""http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com/lawn-mower-p arts.html"">lawn tand mower parts</a> including <a href=""http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com/lawn-mower-b lades.html"">mower blades</a>

Thursday, March 20, 2008

Fine Gardening Secrets Revealed

Author: Sally Summers

Article: I hope you don't think I'm a bad person for admitting this to you. I was feeling a little bit jealous of my sister. Let me explain...

Every year, I visit my sister Joan in Houston -- and every year, her garden just keeps getting even more beautiful. On my last visit, she had a dazzling display of fabulous cutting flowers that absolutely took my breath away.

When she saw how impressed I was -- and how inquisitive I was about how she had created such a magnificent garden -- Joan finally let me in on her secret. It's a secret that just a small number of avid gardeners had kept to themselves for years.

But the secret isn't a secret anymore.

It's <a href=""http://www.bluedolphin-magazines.com/product_info.php?cname =Gardening&cPath=5003437&products_id=4868&skus_id=78029&location= index"">Fine Gardening</a> magazine!

<a href=""http://www.bluedolphin-magazines.com/product_info.php?cname =Gardening&cPath=5003437&products_id=4868&skus_id=78029&location= index"">Fine Gardening</a> is the magazine dedicated to gardening enthusiasts like you and me who want to surround ourselves with beauty, but need some guidance to achieve our dream gardens! With the inspiration and information found only in <a href=""http://www.bluedolphin-magazines.com/product_info.php?cname =Gardening&cPath=5003437&products_id=4868&skus_id=78029&location= index"">Fine Gardening</a>, your garden will thrive like never before with colorful, abundant spreads of your favorite flowers!

I want to share the secret and also tell you about <a href=""http://www.bluedolphin-magazines.com/product_info.php?cname =Gardening&cPath=5003437&products_id=4868&skus_id=78029&location= index"">Fine Gardening</a> because it's the perfect companion for every gardener -- no matter where you live, no matter if your available gardening space is a window box or an acre of fertile ground! Here's why: The expert advice and techniques you get exclusively in <a href=""http://www.bluedolphin-magazines.com/product_info.php?cname =Gardening&cPath=5003437&products_id=4868&skus_id=78029&location= index"">Fine Gardening</a> are brought to you by botanists, entomologists, nursery specialists, commercial growers, curators, landscape architects and groundskeepers, so you can be assured that you're getting accurate, tested, reliable information that you can use to cultivate everything from the simple to the spectacular.

As you can see, <a href=""http://www.bluedolphin-magazines.com/product_info.php?cname =Gardening&cPath=5003437&products_id=4868&skus_id=78029&location= index"">Fine Gardening</a> knows what's important to gardeners like you and me!

With well wishes for your own fabulous flowers,

About the author: Sally Summers is Editorial Director at www.BlueDolphin-Magazines.com and www.Magazine-Supermarket.com. You can read her weekly blog at http://sallysummers.blogspot.com where she talks about today's most popular magazines and how they can enrich your daily life.

Wednesday, March 19, 2008

Discover How To Revitalize Your Life With Herbs

Author: Martin Enevoldsen

Article: For thousands of years, herbs have played an important role in man's life. The ancients used them for improved health and wellbeing, and today, even with the miracles of modern medicine, herbs continue to play a significant role in keeping us strong, safe and robust.

No matter what your problem or need, there is likely to be an herb that's just right for you!

Did you know that most people refer to herbs as weed!?

With so many applications and so many different types and functions, it's no wonder that our modern culture is experiencing such a strong interest in just what herbs can do for us. Although herbs have been around since the beginning of human history, those of us in Western societies may only just now be realizing the great power of these seemingly innocuous plants.

And what power they possess! Herbs have been shown to heal stomach ailments, improve mood, lose weight, stave off the common cold, and even to help us quit smoking. They even have the power to help regulate blood pressure, cure chronic conditions, and alleviate PMS symptoms. As flavorful additions to our food, they can boost our immune system and contribute to better overall health. It's no wonder that over a quarter of prescriptions drugs on the market today contain some sort of plant derivative—and while modern society is often quick to use the latest technology to cure our ills, herbal remedies are all natural, without dangerous side effects.

Did you know that more than 10 specific herbs are mentioned in the Bible?

Have you heard the saying, "Everything old is new again"? Well, it's true that herbs are enjoying a popular resurgence, but it's not necessarily your grandmother's version of herbs that we're talking about here! Today's herbs come in a diversity of forms, from herb-infused dipping oils that are served with bread for a snack to herb-scented bath oils to fancy pre-packaged teas. We've come a long way from the days of simply boiling rosemary twigs in water!

It's true that we still revere the purity of fresh herbs, but we've also learned to embrace the more sophisticated herbal products and more expensive herbal remedies. Celebrities shell out big bucks for herbal cosmetics and skin care products, and herb-scented candles can cost upwards of $50 or even $100 dollars! Fancy herbal potpourris are sold expensively at upscale boutiques, and dishes featuring trendy herbs are offered at the hottest, most exclusive restaurants.

About the author: If you're interested in herbs and how they can revitalize your life, learn how to harness their power, and how to grow then in your own garden, check out my website http://www.amazing-secrets-of-herbs.com for more information.

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

Popular perennials for the garden

Author: Tony Robinson

Article: Perennials are one of the most popular types of flowering plants, both for the beginning and experienced gardeners. Gardeners of all types and abilities enjoy the beauty, hardiness and ease of planting of these find plants.

In addition, perennials come in every color of the rainbow, and in all shapes and sizes, making them a great choice for any garden. What makes perennials special, however, is their ability to come back year after year. While the actual life span of a perennial will vary from species to species and planting to planting, some types of perennials have been known to last for decades.

Perennials can be used anywhere in the garden, and anywhere around the home as well. Many varieties of perennials are great as landscape plantings, and their ability to regenerate makes them perfect for areas of the garden that are hard to reach. Using perennials to line a driveway, surround a flagpole or accent a front porch is a great idea for any gardener.

In fact, the hardest part of perennials for many gardeners is choosing the right ones. There are so many different perennials at your local garden center that it can be difficult to choose the right ones. This article attempts to help with that problem, by providing a brief overview of some of the most popular perennials for the home garden, as well as some brief care tips.

Name: Achillea Common name: Yarrow Needs: Full sun, moderate water (less watering once fully established)

Name: Anemone Common name: Japanese Anemone Needs: Partial shade, regular watering

Name: Aster Common name: New England Aster Needs: Full sun, partial shade in hot climates, regular watering

Name: Astilbe Needs: Partial to full shade (some sun OK in cool climates, regular watering

Name: Chrysanthemum Common name: Shasta Daisy Needs: Full sun, partial shade in hot climates, regular watering

Name: Coreopsis Common name: Threadleaf Coreopsis Needs: Full sun, moderate to little watering

Name: Delphinium Needs: Full sun, regular watering

Name: Echinacea Common name: Purple Coneflower Needs: Full sun, moderate watering

Name: Geranium Common name: Geranium Needs: Full sun or partial shade. Must have afternoon shade in hot climates. Regular watering

Name: Helleborus Common name: Lenten Rose Needs: Full sun in winter; partial to full shade in spring, summer and fall. Regular watering

Name: Nepeta Common name: Catmint Needs: Full sun, moderate watering

Name: Paeonia Common name: Peony Needs: Full sun, partial shade in hot climates, regular watering

Name: Papaver Common name: Oriental Poppy Needs: Full sun, regular to moderate watering

Name: Penstemon Common name: Beard Tongue Needs: Full sun; light shade in hot climates. Regular watering.

Name: Phlox Common name: Summer Phlox Needs: Full sun. Flowers may fade in hot climates. Needs regular watering.

Name: Redbeckia Common name: Black-Eyed Susan Needs: Full sun. Regular to moderate watering.

Name: Salvia Needs: Full sun. Regular watering.

Name: Sedum Common name: Autumn Joy Needs: Full sun or partial shade. Moderate to little watering.

Name: Veronica Needs: Full sun. Regular watering.

About the author: Tony Robinson is an international author and webmaster. In his busy life he finds time to ""Smell the Roses"". For geat tips, techniques and articles visit http://www.rose-bloom.com

Monday, March 17, 2008

Tranquility In Your Own Back Yard

Author: Scott Kirchoff

Article: A garden fountain can add beauty and serenity to you yard or garden. It's long been known that running water can aid in relaxation. The addition of a water fountain can not only add a stunning center piece to you landscape design but also improve your overall experience of relaxation.

However, choosing a fountain can be a difficult task. With fountains ranging from low-end molded plastic to expensive carved stone it can be hard to find the correct fit for your home and budget. You want a fountain that will be the center piece for your landscaping for year to come.

Many low-end fountains will not stand the test of time. Molded plastic will crack and not clean up very well when dirty. Although they can be purchased economically, in the long-run you will not have the long-lasting center piece you are looking for.

High-end carved stone fountains can be stunning but expensive. Many will not fit into your budget and some will need extensive maintenance.

Make sure you select a fountain correct for your environment. Carved stone fountains can be very heavy. If you live in an environment with drastic weather changes you may have to store your fountain in the winter months. Heavy carved fountains may be hard to move and store. Generally once your fountain is installed you will not be able to move it easily or at all. This leads to the problem of the fountain cracking or spalling do to changes in temperature.

Another consideration is the pump and water capacity. Many low-end fountains will not hold much water or have the pumping capacity you are looking for. Mid-range to high-end fountains will have a better ability to move water and generally have a better appearance. Choose fountains that pump at 5 gallons per minute. These allow for a higher water capacity and a more visually pleasing stream of water.

Many mid-range fountains are made of poly resin or a stone and resin mix, making them very affordable and are resistant to weather. Along with their price and durability, these fountains are lighter than carved stone while still giving the look of and feel of stone.

While these fountains are considerably heavier than plastic they are still easy to move and store. Most weigh between 40–70 pounds making them easy to handle.

Location of your fountain is also important. You will need electricity nearby to power your pump. Choose mid-range fountains equipped with a standard 120v connection. You can simply plug them into a standard outlet and go.

A fountain can be a visually attractive and relaxing addition to your home and garden. When you select the correct fountain to fit your needs, you can add the tranquility of water to you home or office.

About the author: Scott Kirchoff manages news and information for http://www.sekwholesale.com, an online supplier of home décor, gardening supplies, and exceptional gifts (including a huge selection of garden fountains).

Sunday, March 16, 2008

How and When to Plant Roses

Author: Kathy Burns-Millyard

Article: When spring comes and the ground is thawed, it is time to start planting your rose garden. Roses have been a cherished aphrodisiac since biblical times. They have been around for over 3000 years, yet they still hold a particular mystery and fascination, not to mention the fact that they just look and smell good!

One of the most important rules of growing roses is to plant the rose bush in an area that receives around 4 to 6 hours of sunlight every day.

It is preferable not to plant too many trees or other plants around the rose bush because most of these are likely to either mix with the rose or stifle it's growth. If you are replacing an old rose bush, approximately 1 1/2 cubic feet of old soil should be removed, and fresh soil added to replace it. When positioning your rose in the garden or landscape, consider the growth habit of the rose.

For example, place climbers and ramblers along fences, trellises, or next to arches or pergolas. This location offers them free range of growth, and optimal potential for the showiest blooms.

Roses also look beautiful in island garden beds interplanted with perennials. Miniature roses make great edging plants in front of their taller cousins. Planted singly, shrub roses make excellent specimen plants or they can be clustered to make a flowering hedge. You can also use them to camouflage unsightly garden objects.

Dig a hole large enough for the root mass and loosen the bottom of the hole. You should add bone meal, which is a slow acting source of phosphorus that leads to healthy root growth in the rose plant.

Then the plant should be placed in the hole carefully and the hole refilled with soil, covering the roots properly. Before making the final covering, water the rose plant and let it absorb the water. After this, water the plant more and mound the soil about 6 inches high. The dome will keep the stems from drying out until the plant is rooted. Gradually remove the excess soil as the leaves open.

Special care should be taken with the planting depth. It varies according to the climate you live in.

If you live in a colder area, plant a bit deeper and consult with the people growing roses in your area. If you are buying potted roses, you should plant them about 1 inch deeper than their potted level.

The best time to plant roses varies depending on the winter temperature. Where temperatures don't drop below -10 degrees F; either fall or spring planting is satisfactory. If you live in an area where winter temperatures go below -10 degrees F, spring planting is preferred. Plants should be planted in a dormant condition if purchased bare root, but container grown plants may be planted throughout the growing season.

Spacing of the rose plant is highly influenced by the temperature. In regions where winters are severe, the rose plant does not grow as large as in mild climates. Taking this into consideration, hybrid tea roses should be spaced 1 1/2 to 3 feet apart. Large vigorous growers, such as hybrid perpetuals need 3 to 5 feet of space, and the climbers need from 8 to 10 feet of space.

If the winter temperature is below 10 degrees F, roses can grow healthy if proper care is taken. The gardener must prepare for that cold, wet reality as he revels in the summer air conditioning.

In zones 7 and colder, the roses enjoy their last fertilization of the season by August 15th to limit the emergence of new rose canes, which will almost certainly not survive the winter.

Additional information and resources related to this article can be found at: <A HREF=""http://www.garden-source.com/archives/2005/05/26/how-and-wh en-to-plant-roses/"">http://www.garden-source.com/archives/2005/05 /26/how-and-when-to-plant-roses/</A>

About the author: &copy; 2005 This article is provided courtesy of The Garden Source Network - <A HREF=""http://www.garden-source.com"">http://www.garden-source.com< /A> This article may be freely published on any website, as long as the links are live, and this notice is left intact.

Saturday, March 15, 2008

The Orchid Myths - What is the Truth

Author: Bob Roy

Article: Here are some of the popular orchid myths

#1 Orchids are Carnivorous They are not, in fact, they pollinate by luring insects to them but they do not eat the insects. This helps the orchid gardening

Orchid Myths#2 Orchids come from the Tropics Some orchid flowers do come from the tropical climates but they grow in any climate and in any country, even Alaska.

#3 Orchids are Expensive. Not anymore. Now with the increased number of orchid gardening and growers, the modern reproductive methods orchids now are reasonably priced.

#4 Orchids are Hard to Grow. This orchid myths is now furthest from the truth. They are not anymore difficult than any other plant. They need the basics, water, light, air and fertilizer. And you can have a beautful orchid flowers that last for years.

Some Orchid Questions

#1 Are all orchids the same? On the contrary o what most florists want you to believe, they come in over 28,000 varieties, they are the largest plant family. There are estimates of 110,000 hybrids today. They grow from thimble size (Mystacidium) to over 20 feet tall (Renanthera storei)

#2 What soil do they grow in? Most orchids require no soil. In nature orchids are divided into 4 classes;

Epiphytes air plants (majority of orchids) grow on trees Lithophytes air plants grow on rock surfaces Saprophytes air plants grown on decaying vegetation Terrestrials ground plants grow in soil

#3 Do orchids only last a short time? On the contrary most species can last for years if taken care of. There are some plants which were propagated in the 18th century and continue to live today.

#4 How often do they bloom? It varies according to the variety and hybrid but they can bloom from once to 2 - 4 times a year. The blossoms can last for weeks to months which is a real plus.

#5 How old is my plant? Orchids can take years to come to maturity and bloom. Typically, the plants are anywhere from 5 to 8 years old.

#6 Is conservation of orchids important? According to the American Orchid Society this is a priority. Threats to orchids come primarily from loss of habitat and collecting. The AOS encourages the purchase of only artificially propagated orchids.

#7 Should orchids be protected from a draft?,/b> This could be another orchid myths,but the answer is no, orchids prefer moving air but should not be over a heating or air conditioning vent.

About the author: Bob has a website devoted to orchids with loads of information, orchids-plus-more.com. You will also see a large selection of stunning orchids.

Friday, March 14, 2008

Tips to Improve the Functionality and Atmosphere of Your Patio with Plants

Author: Nicole Martins

Article: When I began to create planting plans for clients in the mid 1990's one of my main concerns was, how will this collection of plants; the greenery, the flowering, the size and the shape grow together to create an aesthetically pleasing arrangement that feels right in its proportion and scale. If you are looking to create a planting plan for your patio or small outdoor space, the same concerns need to be addressed. Keep in mind that small spaces require great restraint, with a plan towards bringing together a cohesive look. Plants for small and large patios will still be used for similar purposes: decoratively, to create a focal point, add privacy, screen out unwanted views, and to create shade and such. No matter what your objectives, plants can play a significant part in enhancing your outdoor décor. Take a look at the tips and information below before you get started. Hopefully this approach will take you from buying plants impulsively or obsessing over a single plant and move you towards creating a sensible and aesthetically pleasing plan for your outdoor space.

See plants in a new light and show restraint

Your outdoor patio is an additional room and with a nice set up you will be able to relax, cook, entertain and enjoy spending time in your outdoor garden room. To get the most out of your outdoor room with plants, begin thinking about plants as structural elements that can help you to create a ceiling and wall planes, similar to the foundations inside your home. By thinking in these terms, you will begin to see plants differently and hopefully be inclined to choose plants based upon form and growth habit rather than a single factor such as "It's a pretty plant." The problem with this approach is that it doesn't help you to put together a unified look, or to create an effect. Showing restraint is one of the most challenging aspects of using plants to create pleasing effects outdoors. It is important however, that before another lovely plant makes its way into your shopping cart, and later home, you head to the nursery with a clear vision of what you want.

Create a plant wish list.

Consider the size of your patio, it's not endless real estate after-all, and plants and planters should be chosen thoughtfully. If you or anyone you know just can't say no to another plant or needs to take in all the homeless, tired plants out there that's fine, but be careful not to clutter up your patio with all of them. A helpful approach to selecting plants for your patio area is to take a good hard look at your space, and put together a wish list of all the realistic things you want plants to help you achieve; for example: to create greater privacy and to screen an unsightly view. Some people will want a way to create shade or to add dimension to a planting bed; others will want to soften an area, or create a focal point. Whatever your objectives or constraints, this will get you heading in the right direction

No two patios are exactly alike

While it is very common to find a patio directly off the back of the house, there are no rules or regulations that make this the ultimate location. Also, patios come in various sizes and shapes and may contain any number of hardscape materials: flagstone, concrete, tile, brick, pebbles and such. As for layout, a large patio may include definition and enclosure with low walls and planting beds; while a small patio may have just a ground plane dressed in flagstone with enough room for a table and chairs (see http://www.everything-patio-furniture.com ) and some planters and pots. Each patio example can take full advantage of plant forms to create pleasing effects that will maximize every ones pleasure outdoors

Small patios: Designing with plants

Small patio spaces rely not so much on the horizontal plane as on the vertical plane where the greenery of plants can produce handsome walls, create a sense of enclosure and privacy, and, screen out unwanted views. Vines are very useful in small spaces, and garden structures such as trellises and pergolas can assist them to grow upward without claiming too much valuable patio space. This is especially true if plants are grown in the ground versus being planted in pots which will likely take up more room. For certain climates, evergreen shrubs such as boxwood and privet provide permanent architecture year round and can be clipped to maintain the right scale for your needs. To find comparable plant choices for your zone consult with local nurseries and landscapers. Ask for recommendations of upright or vertical shrubs and trees that don't take up a lot of horizontal space and/or can handle being pruned to keep them upright.

With all of the nice plant choices available, make use of perennials, shrubs and trees to create inviting effects. A patio shining with beautiful hardscape is wonderful, but dull without the bountiful greenery of plants to balance.

About the author: Nicole Martins is a contributing author and publisher to http://www.everything-patio-furniture.com an online resource that provides you with great information, articles of interest and reviews of the best selling outdoor furniture and patio accessories online.

Thursday, March 13, 2008

Metal Garden Furniture

Author: Matthew Anthony

Article:

Since Victorian times <a href=http://www.furniture-gardens.co.uk/MetalGardenFurniture.html >metal garden furniture</a> has become a popular way to decorate gardens. In fact, since this furniture can easily last for many years with the proper maintenance, some people are still using pieces in their gardens that were made in the Victorian era. Metal garden furniture adds both a classic style and durability, which demand that it should be considered as the preferred choice of garden furniture.</p>

The options range from modern lightweight aluminum to the more traditional iron and it should be possible to obtain the perfect piece of metal garden furniture for your garden. A few metal chairs and a bistro table are a classic addition to even the smallest patio or terrace area. These furniture pieces are often light and therefore fairly portable, so they can be utilized in many areas of the garden. This means you can take advantage of the changes going on in your garden, whether on a daily basis or over the seasons.</p>

Another classical piece of metal garden furniture is the single ornate iron bench, which can really set off a Victorian style garden. These benches are excellent focal points and can dress up the less interesting sections of the garden. An <a href=http://www.furniture-gardens.co.uk/MetalGardenFurniture.html >iron bench</a> can really add some interest to a shady spot. The iron bench need not be used for sitting on. You can position an iron bench under the tree and then place several pots around it. Finally place a big pot of impatiens or a garden statue on the bench.</p>

If your garden does not have a lot of colour, you could choose some metal chairs in a number of colours. These could be positioned in front of evergreen shrubs, and they really make a statement. On the other hand, if your garden is filled with flowers, you may want to choose metal furniture with more neutral traditional colours such as black or white to add a calmer element to the garden.</p>

Make sure you add a touch of comfort to your garden with a metal lounge chair. Armed with a good book and a cup of iced tea, these chairs are the perfect way for you to relax on a sunny weekend afternoon.</p>

Finally, don't forget about the latest <a href=http://www.furniture-gardens.co.uk/MetalGardenFurniture.html >aluminum garden furniture</a>. These pieces are extremely easy to carry around and can often be folded for easy storage. Aluminum sun loungers, tables, and chairs are all great pieces for times when you need just a few more pieces of furniture on the patio so that you can entertain your friends and family.</p>

About the author: Matthew Anthony has contributed to many home and garden sites such as <a href=http://www.furniture-gardens.co.uk>garden furniture.co.uk</a>.

Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Add Rich Color To Your Garden With Blue Perennial Flowers

Author: Kathy Burns-Millyard

Article: Blue flowers are some of the most striking plants around and can add a rich splash of color to any garden. Plant them in a cluster of all blue or mix them in with other flowers for a rainbow of color.

When planting flowers, it is important to remember to follow the instructions on the tag for the plant. Always buy plants that will thrive in the conditions in which you intend to grow them. A plant that loves sun won't do well in a shady area and you will only be disappointed with the results.

When planning your garden, be aware of the bloom time of the flowers. Planting perennials with different bloom times near each other will insure a garden that has blooms all season long. Remember also to plan for the height of the plants, putting the taller ones in the back.

Below is a list of favorite blue flowering plants that you might want to consider for your garden:

Polemonuim, Blue Pearl - A compact plant with deep sky blue flowers that grows to 10"". It blooms in late spring to early summer. Plant in partial shade and in well drained soil.

Blue Sea Holly - This dramatic plant has a lavender blue cone like flower with long spiked petals. It grows to 30"" and is a favorite for dried flower arrangements. Plant in full sun - blooms in mid to late summer.

Delphinium, Butterfly Blue - Bright blue delicate flowers adorn this plant that blooms in early to mid summer. It reaches 10"" tall and prefers a sunny location with rich moist soil.

Campanula, Blue Carpet - Bright blue to lilac colored flowers bloom for weeks in the middle of summer. This low growing perennial grows to 4"" and prefers full sun with well drained soil.

Penstemon, Blue Buckle - This plant has tubular shaped blooms in blue to purple and flowers in mid summer to early fall. It grows to 15"" and likes well drained soil with full or partial sun.

Hydrangea, Nikko Blue - Gigantic clumps of blue flowers adorn this shrub for most of the summer. In the fall, the flowers turn a golden color. This plant is a new variety that prefers rich soil but will grow in shade, partial sun or full sun.

Vinca - Medium blue flowers and glossy green leaves form a carpet that grows to about 6"" tall and blooms in mid spring. This plant will grow in most soil conditions, in the shade or sun.

Ajuga, Bronze Beauty - This short bushy plant has spikes of blue flowers that grows quickly. Great as a ground cover or in raised beds. It blooms in spring and prefers a shady area.

Scabiosa, Butterfly Blue - A bushy perennial with lavender blue flowers that bloom from June to October. This plant likes full sun and attracts butterflies and hummingbirds.

Verbena, Babylon Blue - Blue purple flowers petals adorn this plant that blooms in early spring. Great for window boxes and planters.

Additional information and resources for this article can be found at: <A HREF=""http://www.garden-source.com/archives/2005/05/24/add-rich-c olor-to-your-garden-with-blue-perennial-flowers/"">http://www.gard en-source.com/archives/2005/05/24/add-rich-color-to-your-garden-w ith-blue-perennial-flowers/</A>

A beautiful blue wildflower picture can be found at: <A HREF=""http://www.garden-source.com/archives/2005/06/02/blue-wildf lower-in-kathys-garden/"">http://www.garden-source.com/archives/20 05/06/02/blue-wildflower-in-kathys-garden/</A>

About the author: &copy; 2005 This article is provided courtesy of The Garden Source Network - <A HREF=""http://www.garden-source.com"">http://www.garden-source.com< /A> This article may be freely published on any website, as long as the links are live, and this notice is left intact.

Tuesday, March 11, 2008

Arbor Swings - Which arbor is right for you?

Author: Nicole Martins

Article: Arbor swings - Taking up anywhere from 20 to 30 square feet when assembled, an arbor swing provides a handsome focal point and a way to enjoy the idle moments of the seasons, swinging outdoors. Arbors with swing parts are generally sold in pieces or panels that require simple assembly. When you shop online, take a look at the various materials available. You will find when comparing different swinging options that materials, size and craftsmanship play a factor in price.

Deciding which arbor to buy

A backyard arbor is one thing, and a garden arbor with a swing is another. A scouring of the internet for swing arbors will lead to specialty merchants selling outdoor wood furnishings and accessories, and, in many cases handcrafting the arbors and swings themselves. This of course, can benefit the consumer by selling perhaps, higher quality arbors swings (though not necessarily so) made from top of the line weather resistant and fungal resistant woods such as western red cedar and teak.

While other woods especially hardwoods like cypress make good choices for outdoor swing arbor sets, so too does pressure treated pine, which is the material used in the popular Uwharrie chair Keep America Beautiful series.

Another thing to compare are components, make sure the hardware is high quality and resistant to corrosion.

Most swings can accommodate two adults comfortably, but if you have several young kids around you may find them swinging away, making it difficult for you to sit yourself down.

If ordering online, swing arbor sets are generally shipped by freight. For more information about arbor designs, please visit http://www.everything-patio-furniture.com/garden-arbors.htm

About the author: Nicole Martins is the editor of Everything Patio Furniture, a patio furniture and accessories review site, which provides valuable tips and information as well as great products for your outdoor space. You can visit this site at http://www.everything-patio-furniture.com

Monday, March 10, 2008

Care of Slipper Orchids

Author: Bob Roy

Article: Yes, Slipper Orchid Care Is Little Tricky But Read On and You Can Do It

Slipper orchid care for these orchids is a little more difficult than cattleyas but you can be successful. To me slipper orchids are one of the prettiest orchids around. They have this waxy sheen to them and the petals and lips are thicker than most orchids.

The one feature that sets slipper orchids apart from others is the lip. It forms a cup like pouch . Another part of the slipper orchid that sets them apart is the uppermost sepal which looks like an inverted heart. The lower sepals may be almost completely hidden from view by the pouch.

Slipper orchids bloom singly for the most part. They generally flower from autumn to spring although there are now hybrids that can bloom at anytime during the year. As beautiful as these orchids are I need to tell you about slipper orchid care.

These paph orchids have no water storing features on them. And they are generally terrestrial,soil growing, growing in the shade of the forest floor where they can always be moist. So watering needs to be available constantly. Paph orchid care requires that they be moist and never dry or soggy.

Paphs are unique, they are both warm growing and cool growing plants. Slipper orchid care will alter a little because of the two different types of paphs.The warm growing need temperatures from 60 - 65 degrees to 75 -85 degrees. Whereas the cool growing orchid paphs need temps from 50 - 55 all the way up to 75 - 80 degrees. These orchids can also do well with a constant temperatures and the cool growing ones can stand temps into the 40's if needed for a short time.

Those paphs which have green leaves are usually the cool climate ones, whilst those with mottled leaves are warm growing ones.

As most orchids, slipper orchids require humidity between 40 - 60%, remember they usually grow on the rain forest floor. This may need to be augmented by using humidity trays. You can get a flat tray with sides. Fill the tray with stone pebbles and then add water about half way up. Place the plant on the tray making sure that the slipper orchid roots are not touching the water. If it does there is a good chance for root rot.

Because they grow in shade on the forest floor they should not be left in sunlight for very long. They do prefer shade, under a tree or near an east window. This is one of the nice elements of slipper orchid care.

Fertilizer is needed and I recommend 1/4 strength given on a weekly basis. The fertilizer should be high in nitrogen so one with30-10-10 ratio is best. Monthly rinse the slipper orchids with water alone to prevent the fertilizer from building up on the root and potentially burning them.

One final point on slipper orchid care, you should re-pot infrequently, that is, about every second year is fine. You should use a mixture which has an excellent moisture retention like fir bark with perlite and some sphagnum moss.

Following these rather straight forward rules will give you years of enjoyment with you slipper orchid.

See our beautful paphs,

now that you feel more comfortable with slipper orchid care, treat yourself.

About the author: Bob's website is devoted to orchid plants. There is a great deal of information on the website, orchids-plus-more.com, as well as a large selection of stunning orchids.

Sunday, March 09, 2008

How to Plant a Heather Garden

Author: David and Alissa Dewitt

Article: HEATHER GARDENS - Mass plantings of heather, either planted with one of each variety or one hundred, can be ideal for a sunny area. Spaced appropriately, the plants will mature into a tapestry with drifts of foliage and flower color.

When planning a garden of heather, begin by making an outline of your area first. If you're planning a border, start from the back of the bed with the taller plants and work forward; if the bed is to be viewed from all sides, begin sketching your design from the center out. If you have room, planting varieties in odd-numbered groups is most effective. Even numbers of plants often make a new garden look too balanced and unnatural. Draw circles outlining the area that the plants will fill out at maturity (about 3-5 years) growing into a weed smothering mass. Roughly figure 18"" spacing when determining how many plants you will need (sq. ft. x .44 is the formula) for a large bed. Choose the taller growing varieties for the back or center of the bed and work your way to the edges, keeping in mind that the plants will grow into a solid mass of foliage leaving little bare ground exposed. Grays and dark greens absorb light; reds, gold and glossy foliage reflect. You want contrasting foliage to define each grouping, so choose a gold or other colored foliage variety, then choose a silver, gray or dark green for the next grouping. Flower color is not as important as you may think but offset the mauves with white or light pinks if the plants are to bloom at the same time. Use the winter blooming Erica's' glossy green foliage as a buffer between a lot of Calluna with colored foliage.

This may all sound a bit confusing on the printed page, but don't let it be because they are all compatible with each other. Arrange them until the placement looks right to you. You may want to plant other types of plants in the heather garden. Dwarf conifers are natural companions with interesting foliage and habit of growth. The vertical forms they achieve are welcome in the heather garden. Other companion plants are: low growing Sedum's, Iberis, Hypericum, Lavender, Sempervivum, Allium, Arabis, Artemisia, Dianthus, Nepeta, Santolina, and Thyme to name a few perennials. Compact Cotoneaster, Vaccinum, Cytisus and other leafy shrubs can also be interesting companion plants in a garden of heather.

FOUNDATION PLANTINGS - Use heather in a foundation planting to eliminate the straight lines and formality that is often created with more typical plants. In the Northeast, Taxus, Rhododendron and Juniper are commonly used; heather is a natural companion to these evergreens. Use them to hide bare branches at the base of shrubs, to fill voids between larger shrubs, and to bring entire plantings away from the house. A long, curving line is more natural and can be creatively designed with the different heights and foliage colors of heather. The evergreen foliage can be the finishing touch needed to bring a foundation planting together.

PERENNIAL BEDS AND BORDERS - Gardens of perennials often lack visual interest during the winter months when the herbaceous species are dormant, waiting for spring's call of warmer temperatures. In the late summer months when many perennials are waning, many of the Callunas are flowering heaviest. The structure and foliage color of these evergreens can also be used to an advantage. The winter blooming Ericas are natural selections for winter color. Erica carnea and E. x darlyensis start forming buds in early summer, that open as early as November in shades of pink, rose or white. These long lasting flowers are colorful all winter until the first of May when many of the spring bulbs are in full bloom. The soil requirements are a bit different than those of some perennials but you may be able to provide them with a site that has a well drained soil that has not had a lot of fertilizer and manure added.

NATIVE AND WILD GARDENS - Fifteen plants of Calluna vulgaris were originally planted some 80 years ago at the edge of a pine barren here on Cape Cod. Over the years, seedlings have taken a foothold in the sandy native soil and have naturalized . Little care has been given to this area that is now over 80 feet long and 30 feet wide. The natural succession that has occurred has left this area with 3-4 dominant natural cultivars which bloom in August and is spectacular. The same effect can be achieved by planting some of the taller cultivars we offer, spaced about 2' apart . Prune heavily the first 3-4 springs to obtain a broad sweep of thick foliage and heavy flowering.

Happy Gardening!

About the author: David and Alissa Dewitt are the owners of Rock Spray Nursery, the largest US grower of the hardy Heath and Heather plants. Visit their informative website at <A HREF=""http://rockspray.com"">http://rockspray.com

Saturday, March 08, 2008

Summer Pruning / Pinch an Inch

Author: Tom Ogren

Article: Summer Pruning…Pinch an Inch

By Tom Ogren

Like most people who grow deciduous fruit trees (apples, peaches, plums, cherries, apricots, etc.) I used to do lots of serious heavy pruning every winter.Each winter I would head back dozens of those long, tall canes that had grown the year before. On some trees, plums in particular, each year I'd often find myself cutting back a huge number of new branches, many of them well over six feet in length. I occasionally wondered: Isn't this hard pruning cycle putting a big workload on the tree? Each summer the tree pours all its energy into growing those overly long new branches, and then each winter I'd chop them back, trying to keep the tree's overall height under some semblance of control. And then too, despite my best intentions and hours of work spent pruning, each season the trees still seemed to be a bit taller than the year before. However, each winter for decades I kept up this hard winter pruning, working with the standard conventional wisdom that it was necessary in order to have a decent tree and a good set of fruit. At the time it made perfect sense to me. Because of apical dominance, when a tip is cut off, the next bud back from what is now the tip, this bud will normally sprout next. The topmost bud on any strong branch has high concentrations of the natural growth hormone, indole acetic acid (IAA). When we prune grapes (which unlike most pomes and stone fruits, set fruit only on new wood) we have to prune the last year's wood hard. We cut back to a few large, strong buds. The lower down on the branch a bud is, the larger and stronger it is. Thus, heavy pruning makes plenty of sense with grapes, or others that bloom on new wood, figs, mulberries, and roses. But does this same sort of hard pruning make sense with most fruit trees, trees that do not set their fruit on the current season's wood?

About a decade ago I read that in order to save money on high labor costs some orchard owners had resorted to pruning only every other year. Yes, they had to cut off more wood, and the pruning work took a bit longer than normal, but overall they were saving some money. The interesting thing, too, was that this every-other-year-pruning didn't seem to hurt fruit production all that much. I myself started this every other year dormant pruning and it beat pruning every year, but it still felt wasteful, wasteful of the tree's stored energy. Let's go back to apical dominance for a moment: Because of apical dominance, when a branch tip is cut off, the next bud back from the new tip, this bud should sprout next. The lower the branch is, the thicker the branch will be, and these lower placed dormant buds will also be larger and potentially much more vigorous. Thus heavy pruning, chopping back to these fat lower buds insures lots of vigorous new growth and makes plenty of sense with grapes, and of course with roses, which also bloom on new wood. But apples, pears, apricots, plums, peaches, nectarines and cherries don't set fruit on new wood, they all bloom on wood that is at least a year old. A few years ago I made a major switch and started doing almost exclusively summer pruning, pinching really. Every few weeks from mid-spring on, whenever I noticed a new branch growing rapidly, I pinched off the end of it. If you had to use a pair of pruning shears to do this, we'd call it a "hard pinch," but what I started doing was a "soft pinch." I merely pinched off, with my fingers and thumbnail, the last inch or two of each fast growing branch. Most of us gardeners have done some pinching of geraniums, begonias, and especially fuchsias, trying to make them bushier. It works pretty much the same with fruit trees, too. The more often you pinch, the more bud breaks you get and the bushier your tree becomes. I have found with very vigorous branches that in a season of growth, I may have to pinch that same branch three or four times, but it seems well worth the effort. The end result of all this tip pinching is a shorter, more compact fruit tree…and one that won't need much pruning in winter. The tree benefits too, since it no longer has to pour all that energy into re-growing all that wood each spring. This same energy can then be converted into producing a larger crop of fruit. There is another pleasant benefit, too, from all this constant snipping and pinching…fewer bugs. Aphids in particular can be a problem on apricots and apple trees, and they almost always take hold first on the softest, newest, fastest growing wood. The pinching removes this soft tip, the part most attractive to insects. The pinching also interrupts the natural apical dominance present in the terminal end of any fast sprouting branch and encourages branching. Summer pruning, pinching, isn't recommended for trees that are growing slowly since it will further slow down growth. It is most desirable with trees that naturally have a tendency to get much tall than we want them to be. Where late spring frosts can be a problem (with apricots in particular) summer pruning can result in a tree of a much more manageable size. Some apricot lovers have now discovered that with enough summer pinching you can get a smaller tree, one that is low enough to throw a plastic cover over on those cold spring evenings when the branches are loaded with white blossoms, but a late frost threatens. But, take note: be sure to remove the frost cover promptly when morning arrives. If a program of summer pinching is undertaken, the following winter's dormant pruning needs will normally be minimal. However, once every few years it would still be a good idea to make a limited number of large cuts, cuts that remove considerable wood. This would be done to encourage more vigorous new growth. The reason this would be needed now and then is because most deciduous fruit trees fruit on either first or second season's wood. Dormant pruning would still be used to remove any dead wood, criss-crossing branches, and to shape the tree. If there is a large branch that needs removing, the time to do that is always in the dormant season. One word here about dormant pruning of fruit trees: in mild winter USDA zones 8-10 it is best to do your dormant pruning just after Christmas. In colder winter areas it is safest to delay dormant pruning until the worst of the winter's cold has passed. Thus in a very cold zone 3, such as in northern Minnesota, the best time to prune fruit trees would be in March or early in April. But summer pruning, pinching, can be done all summer long. The results will please you and the tree both. So get out there, and pinch an inch.

Thomas Leo Ogren is the author of five published books, including Allergy-free Gardening (Ten Speed Press), Safe Sex in the Garden (Ten Speed Press), and, What the Experts May NOT Tell You About: Growing the Perfect Lawn (Time Warner Books). Visit with Tom at his own website at www.allergyfree-gardening.com

About the author: Thomas Leo Ogren is the author of five published books, including Allergy-free Gardening (Ten Speed Press), Safe Sex in the Garden (Ten Speed Press), and, What the Experts May NOT Tell You About: Growing the Perfect Lawn (Time Warner Books). Visit with Tom at his own website at www.allergyfree-gardening.com

Friday, March 07, 2008

Popular varieties of annuals for the home garden

Author: Tony Robinson

Article: Annuals are among the most popular types of plants, and they are attractive to all levels of gardeners, from the first time gardener to the most experienced. Annuals certainly have much to recommend them, including beautiful blooms, bright vibrant colors, low cost and hardiness.

What sets annuals apart from other types of flowers is that they complete their entire life cycle in a single growing season. That means they grow from seed, bloom, set seed and die all within a single season. This of course means that annuals must be planted anew every year, but the gardener is rewarded for his or her hard work by a garden full of beautiful blossoms.

This article focuses on some of the most popular varieties of annuals for the home garden.

Pansies Pansies do their best when they are planted in an area that receives full sunlight. Pansies should also be planted in tight masses, and they are often used as border or bedding plants. Pansies prefer a rich and well drained soil, and it is a good idea for the gardener to cultivate the area around the plants.

Primroses Primroses are not true annuals, but they are treated as such by gardeners. Primroses are actually perennials, but most gardeners grow them as annuals and replant them every year. Primroses do their best in a well drained soil. Some types of primroses prefer full sunlight, while others prefer to have partial shade. The staff at your local garden center can advise you on which varieties do best in full sun and which ones prefer the shade.

Impatiens Impatiens are one of the most popular varieties of annuals, and their tolerance for shade makes them a perfect choice for almost any area of the garden. Impatiens do best in either shade or filtered sunlight, and they like a quick draining soil containing plenty of organic material. If you are planting impatiens from nursery packs, it is important to loosen the root ball carefully and to place each plant in a rich potting soil, being sure not to cover the crown of the plant.

Impatiens should be watered well after they are planted. After that initial watering, however, the gardener should wait until the first two inches of the soil has dried out before rewatering. In addition, no fertilizer should be given until the plants have begun to grow.

Marigolds Marigolds are one of the most popular of the sun loving annuals. These plants are easy to care for, and they provide dependable blooms when provided with good care. Marigolds need a well drained soil in order to do well.

The color varieties of marigolds is one of their best known features. The colors of marigolds range from white, yellow, orange and red, in addition to all possible combinations of the four. The height of marigolds varies as well, from a few inches to a few feet.

In addition to their beauty, many gardeners believe that marigolds are able to repel common garden pests, and they are often planted new vegetable gardens for this reason.

Verbenas Verbenas are also annuals that love the sun. In addition, verbenas need hot weather in order to thrive, so they should be planted in the warmest parts of the garden, and the ones that get the most sunlight.

The Madagascar periwinkle Madagascar periwinkles look somewhat like impatiens, and they are often used as fillers in very sunny parts of a bed of impatiens. These periwinkles bloom through the summer and into the fall season, and they come in a variety of pink and white shades.

About the author: Tony Robinson is an international author and webmaster. In his busy life he finds time to ""Smell the Roses"". For geat tips, techniques and articles visit http://www.rose-bloom.com

Thursday, March 06, 2008

Orchid Growing for Beginners

Author: Bob Roy

Article: Yes, growing orchids for beginners is very easy. They are like any other house plants, they need water, light, fertilizer and, oh yes, you should talk to them or even play some music.

Get a complete Orchid Growing Guide with the Purchase of any Orchid Plant. Here is what you get with the course

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One of the long standing myths that I still hear is that growing orchids as house plants are difficult and finicky to grow. Well, plain and simple, the answer is No. In fact, care for orchids as house plants are easy to grow and will continue to bloom for years. Some orchid plants have been around for centuries.

Here are some highlights you can use as a guide to growing orchids for beginners.

Watering

One of the two top items in growing orchids for beginners is Water. The other is light. Orchid house plants and orchid plants in general will need watering periodically, usually you can water once a week. Remember, most orchids are air plants and this means you will see their roots. Their root system, especially the pseudpods, are very efficient in storing water.

Here is a watering guide you can use: Cattleya, oncidium and dendrobium orchids like to dry out between watering. An easy way to water is to put the plant in the sink and let water flow through the plant for about 20-30 seconds. Remember, let the water drain from the plant before putting it back into the decorative pot.

Plhalaenopsis orchids like to almost dry out between watering. To decide on the next watering is to stick your finger about an inch into the medium which should feel spongy and not bone dry.

Growing orchids like Paphiopedilum and epidendrum should be slightly moist so that watering can be twice a week.

Humidity

If the humidity in your home is low (below 40%) you may need to either mist the plant occasionally or use a humidity tray. The tray is simply a metal or plastic tray that is filled with pebbles and 1/2 of water. The plant would sit would sit on the pebbles. Be sure not to let the plant or roots sit in the water while on the tray.

The Right Lighting

Growing orchids for beginners requires the right light. It is the next most important element to growing orchid plants. As a general statement most orchid house plants do well in medium light. This would in a window or an area that could get about 4 hours of sun or bright light a day. Cattleya orchids do well in this light but can also do well in a sunlit area for up to six hours. Phals do well in indirect but bright light.

What about temperature?

Most orchids do well in normal house temperature. The low temperature at night do not impede the growth. Here is a little guide you can use. Growing orchids for beginners should understand that there needs to be fluctuation in temperatures in order for the plants to bloom. For example, there should be about 10 degree fluctuation for cattleyas between the day and night temps.

Orchid Genre Minimum temp Degrees F Maximum temp Degrees F Phalaenopsis

Vanda 60 90 Paphiopedilum (mottle leaf)

Dendrobium

Cattleya,

Epidendum 55 85 Paphiopedilum (green leaf)

Oncidium

Miltonia 50 80

About the author: Bob's interest in orchids is evident in the depth of his orchid website, orchids-plus-more.com with its manhy informational articles. There is also a large selection of stunning orchids.

Wednesday, March 05, 2008

Rose Pruning Tips

Author: JT

Article: Pruning your roses is one of the most needed and the most annoyingly difficult tasks that goes with proper rose care. It takes a steady hand the proper procedure to ensure the best possible roses that you can get.

Pruning your roses is basically the act of getting rid of dead and damaged pieces, and teaching the new growth to grow in the correct outward facing direction. That just means that you are training them to grow facing the outside of the shrub or bush. This gives your roses the correct amount of circulating air to thrive in.

Here is a list of the proper techniques to guide through the pruning process.

Soak your pruning shears in equal parts of water and bleach. This will help to protect your roses from diseases and insects. Pruning in the early spring, just after the snow melts is best. However you want to do it before any new growth appears. The best time would be when the buds are swelled, or red.

Hand shears are the best tool for pruning the smaller branches. (about 4 ½ inches thick) Loppers are best for the branches that are thicker or the thickness of a pencil. This will make it easier. You should use a heavy pair of rose gloves to avoid the thorns.

You want to get rid of the winter protection that you set up like cones, burlap, and mounded soil. You want to get rid of the dead wood first. (That would be the black wood that is black inside as well as out). Next, you wan to get rid of the thinner wood, which is the stems that are thinner than a pencil.

Cut all of the branches that cross or overlap one another because these are often diseased or will become so. Keep the remaining five healthy branches. These are often dark green. You will want to make your roses fluted or vases shaped, with an open center, and keep them from touching or overlapping each other.

Cut your healthy canes to be about one to four feet long, or whatever size that you prefer. Cut you roses properly so that they stay healthy. Cut so that the bud is facing outside of the bush and at a 45 degree angle that slopes inward so that you can keep promoting the outward growth.

You should use bypass pruners that work like scissors and not the anvil types because the anvils crush the stems and make the roses more available to diseases.

About the author: To find many more articles on roses, and other plants and flowers, head over to http://www.gardenarticles.com where we have all a gardener could want!