Pest control in the perennial garden

Author: Tony Robinson

Article: One of the many advantages of growing perennials is the ability of these beautiful flowers to return to full bloom season after season. While this ability to bloom repeatedly is one of the things that makes perennials so special, it also introduces a number of important factors into your gardening plan. One of the most important of these is a proper pest control regimen.

While a garden full of annuals starts each season as a blank slate, the perennial garden is essentially a work in progress. The fact that the plants stay in the ground through winter makes things like proper pruning, disease management and pest control very important. If the garden bed is not prepared properly after the current growing season, chances are the quality of the blooms will suffer when the next season rolls around.

One of the most important factors to a successful perennial pest control regimen is the attention and vigilance of the gardener. As the gardener, you are in the best position to notice any changes in the garden, such as spots on the leaves, holes in the leaves, or damage to the stems. Any one of these could indicate a problem such as pest infestation or a disease outbreak.

It is important to nip any such problem in the bud, since a disease outbreak or pest infestation can easily spread to take over an entire garden. Fortunately for the gardener, there are a number of effective methods for controlling both common pests and frequently seen plant diseases.

Some of these methods are chemical in nature, such as insecticides and fungicides, while others are more natural, like using beneficial insects to control harmful ones. While both approaches have their advantages and disadvantages, many gardeners prefer to try the natural approach first, both for the health of the garden and the environment.

There is an additional benefit of the natural approach that many gardeners are unaware of. These days, it is very popular to combine a koi pond with a garden, for a soothing, relaxing environment. If you do plan to incorporate some type of fish pond into your garden landscape, it is critical to avoid using any type of insecticide or fungicide near the pond, since it could seep into the water and poison the fish. Fish are extremely sensitive to chemicals in the environment, especially with a closed environment like a pond.

As with any health issue, for people or plants, prevention is the best strategy to disease control and pest control alike. The best defense for the gardener is to grow a garden full of the healthiest, most vigorous plants possible. Whenever possible, varieties of plants bred to be disease or pest resistant should be used. There are a number of perennials that, through selective breeding, are quite resistant to the most common plant diseases, so it is a good idea to seek them out.

About the author: Tony Robinson is an international author and webmaster. In his busy life he finds time to ""Smell the Roses"". For geat tips, techniques and articles visit http://www.rose-bloom.com

How to Grow Bamboo

Author: Hans Dekker

Article: Bamboo is a mysterious and elusive plant that baffles taxonomists who try to contain it within a botanical class and gardeners who try to contain it within a limited garden space as they learn how to grow bamboo. For many years, bamboo was thought to be a primitive grass but recent DNA testing has shown it to be one of the most highly evolved forest grasses. There are over 1200 forms of bamboo that grow in a broad spectrum of color including the familiar green and gold as well as burgundy, blue and even black grasses. Some varieties of bamboo can grow up to a foot a day and ultimately reach 130 feet tall while the smallest bamboo cultivar attains only six inches of growth.

The first step in learning how to grow bamboo is picking a cultivar and beginning to unravel its many mysteries. While most of us picture tall stands of green and golden canes growing in tropical bamboo forests, bamboo cultivars range from the temperate to the tropical. As well as diversity in cultivar, bamboo has over 1500 documented uses that range from use in construction to the making of acupuncture needles and from agricultural fodder to the making of musical instruments. Until they are cut, bamboos stems are properly called culms and not canes. In India bamboo plants are commonly called the ""Wood of the poor"" and in China the" friend of the people"". To add to the confusion, a cultivar commonly sold as "lucky bamboo" isn't bamboo at all but a type of lily from the Dracaena family!

Unluckily for bamboo, it has the reputation for being an invasive plant, growing from running rhizomes. Although this is true for some cultivars, the most cold-hardy plants don't run at all, but grow from well-behaved clumps with well-established root systems. One thing that bamboo cultivars do have in common is that they are perennial plants. As noted above, some bamboos varieties are temperate and some are tropical. Because its diversity, it's easy to find a suitable cultivar when you want to learn how to grow bamboo. Bamboo cultivars range from those that grow indoors to outdoors, in a garden or in a container, in bright light or shade.

Two considerations in knowing how to grow bamboo successfully are water and air. All true bamboos are grasses and won't grow in saturated soils. They also need air circulation to thrive. In fact, some bamboo growers raise the pots of their small cultivars on chopsticks to provide air circulation under the plant as well as around it. Large pots are often elevated with heavy dowels.

The bamboo is a symbol of long life, strength and versatility for many cultures of the world. Unraveling its mysteries is a continuing source of enjoyment. When you know how to grow bamboo, you'll find that your love for the plant grows as fast as your bamboo does!

About the author: Gardener and owner of <a href=""http://www.gardening-guides.com"">Gardening-Guides.com""</a> Visit our website for more information and free-articles

Fertilizers - What you Need to Feed Your Lawn

Author: L. J. Bruton

Article: Just like humans need food, water and shelter to survive, lawns depend on certain elements to live, sixteen to be exact. Most of these elements are already found naturally in the environment, but several others need to be added to your lawn. Adding fertilizer with these three elements, nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, does the job.

Before you run out to the store to purchase a complete fertilizer, or, one that contains all three, it is important to understand why your lawn's livelihood depends on it.

Nitrogen- This is possibly the most important element your lawn needs. It makes the grass grow and gives it its green color. It will also allow for more density, thick shoots, and sturdy growth, thus creating an environment that will naturally fight off pests and bugs.

Potassium- Since you can't toss bananas in your yard, your best bet for this mineral is to use fertilizer! Potassium enhances your lawn's ability to resist disease, drought, wear and cold weather.

Phosphorus- This is used to encourage strong grass root growth.

Most fertilizers you will find in your local home and garden stores will contain all three of these elements. However, there are different amounts of each. This is reflected in a three-digit number, such as 30-10-10, which tells the percentage of each in this order: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. These blends will serve different purposes. For instance, more potassium in blends are good for winterization. The factors you need to consider are grass type, climate, time of season and soil type. Once you know what your needs are, you will be able to determine the right combination of these elements. An additional way to scan your needs is determine the current levels of these nutrients in your soil. This can be done through a simple pH test.

In addition to variation in percentages of the key elements, there are also different types of fertilizers to consider. There are four major options that will greet you in the fertilizer aisle: Granular (slow and fast-release), Liquid, Synthetic and Organic.

Granular fertilizers are perhaps the most popular, probably due to their ease in use and duration. Since these are dry, they are much easier to spread. Granular fertilizers can come in a slow time-release formula, which provides fertilization over two to six months.

This is an efficient choice for homeowners, as it will not need another application for months to come. Granular is also available in fast-release, and although applied in the same manner, the nutrients are released quicker and work better in cold weather. This method also costs less. However, grass burn can occur and there will be a greater need for watering.

Liquid fertilizers are just as the name says- in liquid form. These are applied by attaching a hose and nozzle to a spray bottle. The contents of the bottle are usually in concentrated form, thus the need to mix with the water. If you can use a hose, this is an easy method, more so than spreading granular around the yard. Also, since this a liquid, nutrients are available immediately to the roots of your vegetation. Herbicides can also be added or applied during this treatment. But, since the results are immediate, applications will have to be repeated more often than granular, and since liquid is more expensive to begin with, it can be more costly.

Synthetic fertilizers are usually manufactured chemically, hence being called synthetic. These engineered fertilizers offer immediate release of nutrients, and make lawns green.They simply penetrate the soil quicker. However, they are not natural, and many argue that lawns should be treated naturally. Applications of synthetic fertilizer needs to be redone more often, as results don't last as long. They can also burn your lawn if not applied in a proper manner.

Finally, organic fertilizers are made from once living organisms and their bi-products. These are applied to the lawn by spreaders, rakes and even by hand. Since this a totally natural fertilizer, the organics tend to break down slow when releasing nitrogen. They will improve the texture and density of your lawn, especially when added to soil or lakebed sand. There are some drawbacks however, including a foul smell in the case of manures. Also, these soils tend to have more nitrogen than other elements.

In summary, when choosing a fertilizer, you need to consider many things: The current nutrition of your lawn, how much money you want to spend, how much labor you want to invest in application- initial and repeats, as well as personal preference. But with the spurt in technology, choices keep growing as more combinations are being introduced.

About the author: For hundreds of other tips for creating your own perfect lawn, be sure to visit: <a href=""http://www.YourPerfectLawn.com""> http://www.YourPerfectLawn.com</a>

Guide to basic Lawn Mower Maintenance

Author: Keith Kingston

Article: Trying to start your lawn mower after a long winter can be very frustrating. Performing a few routine maintenance tasks before you store your lawn mower for the winter can save you time in the spring, prolong the life of your lawn mower, and save you money over the long run. Even if you have already put your lawn mower into storage for the winter, a few simple maintenance tasks performed before starting your lawn mower in the spring can be very beneficial.

Wash and dry your lawn mower after the mowing season is over. A power blower can be very helpful in removing grass and debris from the underside of your lawn mower and other hard to reach areas. If your lawn mower engine is air-cooled, use a stick or wooden dowel to remove any residue from the cooling fins. If you have a lawn mower with a water-cooled engine, check the coolant level and fill the reservoir if needed. Clean the radiator cooling fins with a strong jet of water. You should also drain the fuel tank and replace the fuel filter. The air filter housing should be cleaned and the air filter replaced.

Remember to check the spark plug(s) for corrosion and wear. Don't attempt to clean the spark plug if it is showing some wear. It is cheap and easy to replace the spark plug. Be sure to remove any debris before removing the spark plug and by using a bit of anti-seize compound when you replace the old spark plug, you will ensure easier removal next year. Clean and lubricate the throttle linkages and the choke, and apply grease to the mower deck and all the fittings. This will be easier if you remove the mower deck and you can sharpen the blades while the mower deck is off. Sharpening the blades after each mowing season will give you a better cut next year and save you the trouble of having to sharpen them in the spring.

Clean the battery terminals and replace your old lawn mower battery if necessary. You can help prevent corrosion of the terminals if you apply grease to the posts at the end of each mowing season. Change the oil in the engine crankcase and replace the oil filter. You should also drain the gas from your lawn mower before storing it for the winter. During the long summer mowing season, remember to wash your lawn mower and remove any debris after the mower has cooled. Keeping your lawn mower clean will add years to its life and make routine maintenance tasks a lot easier.

Lawn mowing is a job most of us face each and every year. A lawn mower that runs great and is well maintained will make this job more enjoyable and easier all summer long. A yearly check up for your lawn mower is the perfect way to prolong its life and keep it running like new, and your lawn will look great when you mow with a machine that is in top working condition. Your lawn mower will perform at the highest level possible if you remember to perform these simple maintenance tasks each and every year. During the summer months periodically check the oil and the condition of the air and fuel filters. You will save money and your lawn mower will work great for years to come.

About the author: Keith Kingston is a professional web publisher, offering information on lawn mowers and lawn mower parts. You can visit his website at http://www.4-lawnmowers.com/

Starting a Shade Garden

Author: Kathy Burns-Millyard

Article: Starting a Shade Garden

The shade garden can be exploding with color and texture. No matter how much shade is in your landscape, the right flowers, plants, bushes and bulbs will grow in this area when given a chance. As there are various types of shade, you will need to choose the plants that are 'right' for the type of shade you have: partial, dense, full, or filtered shade.

In starting a shade garden, one of the easiest shade gardens will be the filtered shade garden. What you need to do first is look at the trees or bushes that are making this area a filtered shade garden. Pruning off the lower branches on taller bushes and on the tree will allow additional light into your garden. Because you are planning a filtered shade garden, you do want some amount of sunlight in that garden below the tree.

Thinning out the bottom saplings that are trying to grow from the tree is needed at this time to ensure they do not grow up in your garden. Underbrush and thorny bushes should be cut down and dug up at this time before starting your shade garden.

Now you can work on the soil that is in the area that you want to create that new garden. Adding organic materials, more soil, compost, manure or other types of nutrients to the soil will prepare the fine garden bed that will hold your shade plants.

When possible, do not disturb the roots of the tree that will be in or around the garden area. Cutting or disturbing the roots of a tree can cause damage or death to the tree over time. Working with the soil and adding the needed materials to make your garden about six inches deep is going to be the ultimate situation for your new plants.

After planting your first shade plants in the garden continue to water them every few days until the roots begin to 'take hold' and support the plants. When placing your plants in the soil of your new garden, mulching around the plants will hold the water in the soil for your plants to thrive best.

This article is provided courtesy of The Garden Source Network - <A HREF=""http://www.garden-source.com"">http://www.garden-source.com< /a> - a large gardening network devoted to helping you find all the gardening materials you need, such as Seeds, Live Plants, Roses, Trees and Beautiful decor. This article may be distributed and published on any website, as long as this statement and URL remain intact, and the website address is linked properly.

About the author: Need flower and garden products? Visit <A HREF=""http://www.garden-source.com"">The Garden Source Network</a> today!

Understanding Weeds - But mostly How to Kill 'em

Author: L. J. Bruton

Article: When I was a child, I loved to pick Dandelions. The pretty yellow flowers were small, colorful, and looked nice tucked behind my ear! However, if one had popped up in the front yard, my hair accessory would have been considered an atrocity!

I often feel sorry for weeds. They are plants too. In fact, if you flipped through a botany field guide, you may be surprised at the plants you find classified as weeds! But simply put, a weed is really defined as a plant out of place. Clover in one persons flowing lawn may be considered fashionable, whereas on another, not. Golf greens are often covered with bentgrass, but if it crept up in some yards, it would be considered a weed.

While perhaps pretty on their own, weeds stick out like a sore thumb in yards because they may be of a different color, size or texture. This is distracting from the beauty of the otherwise sprawling green turf. Aside from aesthetic values, weeds can also drain nutrients from grass and other plants, and this competition of resources can thin what should be lush. And what's worse is that weeds are fighters. They can withstand conditions that your wanted greens cannot, so they are almost inevitable!

Treating weeds begins with correct identification. There are two classifications of weeds: Grassy and Broadleaf. These are further broken down into groups like perennial, biennial, and winter and summer annuals. These, as you may gave guessed, depict their growing patterns. Grassy weeds are, as they sound, like grass. However, they are unwanted grass, or grass that is growing in a different type of lawn. Some examples are annual bluegrass, barnyard grass, crabgrass, creeping bentgrass and foxtail. Broadleaf weeds may appear more to be what most people picture weed-like growth to be. Since they are broad, they are more easily distinguished. Some examples are yarrow, knotweed, chickweed, clover, ground ivy, thistle and my favorite, the dandelion.

Once you understand what is growing in your lawn and decide that it is unwanted, you can treat it and/or control it. Weeds can actually be controlled by your lawn care maintenance. If you maintain a dense and vigorously growing lawn, you are already combating the problem. Weeds can be a sign of underlying problems in the environment beneath. So by just killing them, you are simply putting on a band-aid, not solving the problem.

For example, some weeds grow in situations of compacted soil, such as knotweed. You can also control the growth by taking better care of the grass, rather than focus on the weeds. You can raise or lower the mowing height, change the frequency of mowing and changing the amount of time between irrigating. Also, you can increase or decrease application of fertilizer and aerify the soil. This will maintain better grass, thus keeping the growth dense and vigorous, which as discussed above, does not attract weeds.

In addition to culture practices, sometimes the assistance of chemicals is needed to control weed growth. In that case, there are several types of herbicides that can be used. Preemergence herbicides will affect seeds that are germinating. Since they are best used two to three weeks before the seeds start to grow, these work best to combat annual weeds. Postmergence herbicides are used, as their prefix implies, after the weeds have sprouted. Since they must be absorbed through the leaves, this types of herbicide works best with a spray.

These can be used at any time, but are most effective when the weed is still young and growing. Selective postmergence herbicides are usually used to control annual, biennial and perennial broadleaf weeds, as they will not damage grass. But, they can kill trees, shrubs and flowers. These have to be used in proper conditions as well, with no rain in the forecast for two days to follow, air 60-80 degrees and no winds. Finally, non-selective postmergence herbicides kill all types of weeds, and are best used to spot treat grassy weeds that are not affected by the selective herbicides.

So next time you see a Dandelion plant growing, don't make a wish and blow the seeds toward in the direction of a lawn fanatic- they may not get the perfectly manicured lawn they wished for!

About the author: For hundreds of other tips for creating your own perfect lawn, be sure to visit: <a href=""http://www.YourPerfectLawn.com""> http://www.YourPerfectLawn.com</a>

The Many Types of Yellow Water Lilies

Author: Kathy Burns-Millyard

Article: The Many Types of Yellow Water Lilies

Choosing water lilies for your water garden can be a difficult as there are so many colors, sizes and types to pick from. Among the many types of lilies, you are faced with color choices, here we are going to tell you all about the types of yellow lilies for your water garden. Keep in mind the factors involved for deciding which lily you plant in the water garden include: - how large your water garden is. - if you have free flowing water in your pond. - if your grow zone matches the temperature need of the lily.

The ""Charlene Strawn"" is a medium sized lily found in North America. The petals are wide at the base with points on the end. The flowers on this lily push up and seem to sit above the green lily pads. This flower does have a slight fragrance you will enjoy if you like just light scents.

""Colonel A J Welch"" lilies produce a narrow and pointed looking bloom. The petals look crinkly and point out from the plant like a start. The leaves of the plant are green but flecked with purple specks while the plant is still young. As the plant matures, the purple is less noticeable and the flowers will stay open in the afternoon temperatures. This lily is a very fast growing species that will take over small water gardens quickly. It is more suited for the large pond or deep-water garden.

The ""Chromatella"" is one lily that is very popular in the water garden everywhere. The flower itself is very large with a lighter color of yellow on the exterior petals and the inside of the flower very bright yellow. The flower sits directly on the leaves that seem to float in the water. The leaves are a deep olive green color but often will streak with purple. The very tips of the petals are tinged with a pink color, creating a vibrant and lively display in your water garden. While this is a large flower, it is suitable for most all water gardens except those under one hundred square feet.

A medium version of the Chromatella is the ""Moorei"" lily flower is smaller and will use brown spots in the leaves instead of the purple in the leaves of the plant. This plant is more suited for the small water garden.

""Sulphurea"" is yet another yellow lily grown in the small water garden. The flowers are taller than others, held above the leaves of the plant while at the same time the petals point upwards to reach the sun.

Changes you can make in the water garden include the use of the miniature lily, the ""Helvola"". This small lily is only about two inches wide and it will fit in the smallest of water gardens or creatively used in the container water garden.

The point of describing the various types of yellow lilies is to show you that you have choices. If you walk into a supply store but only see one or two types of lilies, you most likely are not going to get the full effect of what you were searching for. Be sure to read about how large the lilies will grow, and how fast the lilies will take over your water garden so you can be sure that your water garden will be your ultimate dream!

About the author: This article is provided courtesy of The Garden Source Network - http://www.garden-source.com - a large gardening network devoted to helping you find all the gardening materials you need, such as Seeds, Live Plants, Roses, Trees and Beautiful decor. This article may be distributed and published on any website, as long as this statement and URL remain intact, and the website address is linked properly.

How to Attract Butterflies to Your Garden

Author: Kathy Burns-Millyard

Article: The flittering of the butterfly through your garden is no accident if you planned your garden carefully. The adult butterfly flitters from flower to flower - sipping nectar from many flowers in your gardens, while other adult butterflies search for areas to lay their larvae. It is good to take note that the butterfly garden is going to differ from other areas of your garden. Your natural instincts will be to kill off pests, larvae and creatures in the garden, but in the butterfly garden your best results are noticed when you use organic gardening: Which means no chemicals at all.

In you want to include the use of butterflies in your landscape you will need to create a safety zone for your butterflies to feel safe. Butterflies frequent habitual zones, where they feel safe and where areas of the landscape meet with the tree lines. Creating your butterfly gardens near or around trees will help in attracting even more of these graceful creatures to your gardens.

A tip in attracting the Black Swallowtail or the Anise Swallowtail is this: Plant parsley, dill or fennel in your gardens, these plants attract this certain butterfly. If these herbs are not your favorites, you can attract other types of butterflies using other flowers. To attract the Fritillary butterfly for instance, plant Lupine flowers your garden. Or you may want to consider planting Snapdragons to attract butterflies that are native in your own area. Your early butterfly gardens are going to attract butterflies only in passing, but creating and growing the gardens that offer a safe haven for the butterfly will urge them to stay in your garden.

Butterflies are attracted to areas of your gardens where they can gather food for their offspring. The caterpillar will eat from the plants while the adult butterflies will sip on the nectar of the flowers. As your plants, shrubs, and flowers mature, the amount of butterflies to your gardens will also increase. The plants and flowers that you put in your garden this year will attract only a few, but in the years to come the natural instinct of the butterfly will lead them to your garden.

What is the adult butterfly searching for in your gardens? The butterfly searches for areas to take shelter from the high winds, the rains, and the summer storms. This is where the trees and shrubs in your gardens become important in protecting the butterfly and offering shelter. During the normal, warm sunny summer day the butterfly wants the wide-open areas of your lawn and garden.

Butterflies will seek soft soil that is sandy-like to find water. The sand-like soil that allows water to puddle up after a rainstorm is a butterflies delight. The developing stages of the caterpillar to the butterfly are observed often in the established butterfly garden.

By creating the atmosphere in the garden that offers the shelter, food, water and the fragrance the butterfly is searching for you will have Butterfly Garden success.

Need flower and garden products? Visit <A HREF=""http://www.garden-source.com"">The Garden Source Network</a> today!

About the author: This article is provided courtesy of The Garden Source Network - http://www.garden-source.com - a large gardening network devoted to helping you find all the gardening materials you need, such as Seeds, Live Plants, Roses, Trees and Beautiful decor. This article may be distributed and published on any website, as long as this statement and URL remain intact, and the website address is linked properly.

The Birth of a Small Container Flower Garden

Author: Kathy Burns-Millyard

Article: The Birth of a Small Container Flower Garden

This is the first in a series of essays on how I am converting a small (12' x 16') yard in Cody, Wyoming (USA) from a barren wasteland of pea gravel and total shade to a useful summer room that is a delight to the senses. I am doing this from April to October, with a budget of about $100 (US) per month. Please come along with me on this journey. I expect it to be fun, educational, frustrating and I'll love your company.

When you think of Wyoming, you probably picture vast forests, beautiful meadows, big game and Old Faithful. All that is here, but it's not in Cody. Situated at the eastern gate to Yellowstone National Park, Cody was founded in 1900 by Buffalo Bill Cody. His Irma Hotel (two blocks from my house) is still in operation.

Cody is in USDA Zone 4 and gets about 13"" of rain per year. I am writing this on April 15 and so far we've had about 2.5"" of moisture. We are in a ""rain shadow"" created by the mountains in Yellowstone. Moisture coming in from the west rises up to the Continental Divide and drops right there. I can see this in action when I stand in my kitchen window and watch the huge clouds evaporate as they sail in from the west.

We moved into this rental house in January. The yard looked like any yard in January - brown and bare. But I looked at all that pea gravel and no sign of grass and the row of shaggy unkempt elm trees and knew what I was facing. So I began to plan.

Of course the first stop is always the <A HREF=""http://www.garden-source.com/Gardening-Books.php"" TITLE=""gardening books"">gardening books</A> and magazines that are full of dreamy photographs of gardens in places where it (a) rains and (b) the owner invests the price of a college education in their landscaping. Sigh. But if the folks on that TV show that takes design inspiration from rooms done in the highest style and reinterprets them with items from yard sales and import stores could make a polyester satin purse out of a vinyl pig's ear, I could too!

So here is the basic plan, and what I have achieved to date.

The yard is out the kitchen door, with a lovely view of the driveway and the street. The neighbors have an enchanting vista out their living room window. My husband and I will use the space for cooking, eating and relaxing. The house shades the yard from the east, the row of elms and the neighbor's house shades it from the west. The southern exposure on the street side gives about 3 hours of sun on the very edge of the yard, and the northern exposure is a nice view of the sky and the row of unidentified shrubs along the fence.

I'm doing the garden entirely in container pots. Pots on the ground, pots on other pots, pots hanging from the trees, pots on the roof of the cellar entrance. This way I can control the soil quality and keep the water ON the plants instead of soaking into the thirsty ground. This also will let me rotate plants as they come into bloom or fade, and most importantly, lets me move plants from one spot to another if my original idea didn't work.

So far I have bleeding hearts, hostas, lilies of the valley, grape hyacinth and another bulb I can't remember. There's one pot of yellow tulips salvaged from an end-of-season sale that's doing remarkably well. Finally, there are three large pots of bush peas. Soon to come are some ferns and tuberous begonias. There's no furniture, but we have two cast iron hibachis, so we can cook and eat like John Coulter did when he came through here in the early 19th century - meat roasted over the fire and butt firmly on the ground.

Who was John Coulter, you ask? He was no gardener. He was the young man who left the Lewis & Clark Corps of Discovery before they got back to St. Louis and walked back to the Rocky Mountains to discover Yellowstone, via what was to become Cody, WY.

<i>Written by Mary-Denise Smith. &copy; 2004 Electronic Perceptions</i>

This article is provided courtesy of The Garden Source Network - <A HREF=""http://www.garden-source.com"">http://www.garden-source.com< /A> - a large gardening network devoted to helping you find all the gardening materials you need, such as Seeds, Live Plants, Roses, Trees and Beautiful decor. This article may be distributed and published on any website, as long as this statement and URL remain intact, and the website address is linked properly.

About the author: Need flower and garden products? Visit <A HREF=""http://www.garden-source.com"">The Garden Source Network</A> today!

Internet Marketing and Advertising for the Green Industry

Author: Adam White

Article: How do you tap into the network of online advertising without wasting your money on advertising that can bring you little results? Advertising on the internet can be risky for landscaping companies because you may be paying for someone across the country or the world to see your ad or website. You need localized advertising. You ask yourself, well how can internet advertising be an effective way to advertise locally. Well let's think about this for a second. Who is your target audience? It is either businesses or someone willing to pay for lawn maintenance or landscaping. These are the people who use the latest technologies in everything they do. These are the people who go to the internet to find things they are looking for. They do this because they know that they will find the most information about what they are looking for. You want proof? How did you find this article? You looked it up on the internet. This is the way people find what they are looking for now. So they go to the internet to search for landscaping companies in their state or even their own town. Now you might be asking yourself, well I'm a lawn care company, not a landscaping company. Most people don't know the difference. They believe that a lawn care company is the same thing as a landscaping company. So they search for landscaping companies in their state and whatever website shows up at the top of Yahoo, MSN, or whatever search engine they use, that's the one that they are going to visit to find a landscaping company. What about the yellow pages? I can't tell you how many owners of landscaping companies have told me that they spend hundreds of dollars each year to be listed in the yellow pages and don't get any calls from their listing. I ask why they continue to spend the money there and it is simply because all the other companies are listed. If you want to throw away money just because every other company does, throw it my way. I can guarantee you will get no calls if you give me your money and then you won't have to worry about it. What you need to do is take that money and get a website designed and optimized for the search engines. What it means to get a site optimized for search engines is that when someone searches for landscaping companies in your town your website shows up in the top 10 search results. For more information on how to optimize your website for top rankings visit http://www.lawncaredirectory.com/search-engine-basics.htm With a website that has been properly optimized, people in your service area will be able to find your website. It will be the best form of local advertising that you will have because once the site is designed and optimized, you don't have to do anything else or pay anything to anyone. You can't beat free advertising that brings people looking for you to your website. You can also list your company with its new website at LawnCareDirectory.com for FREE. Make your landscaping business grow and get online today. To learn more about getting your own business website http://www.lawncaredirectory.com/landscaping-websites.htm.

About the author: Adam White has been providing internet marketing to landscaping and lawn maintenance companies since 1999. He is the owner of http://www.lawncaredirectory.com

Hills and holes: Not part of your landscaping design?

Author: L. J. Bruton

Article: Do pests 'gopher' your lawn? Chances are, if you have a lawn, you risk the chance of having pests, such as the gopher and his cousin the mole. And, perhaps even those pesky six-legged creatures- ants and other insects- call your grass patches home. Why are these animals and insects attracted to your lawn? And, what can you do to stop them from burrowing and nesting? Those answers and more will follow in this article.

Most household lawns are not large enough to attract so many pests that a serious problem will result, but nonetheless, they can be a nuisance and cause some minor damage to your grassy nook. Insects are not very easy to spot, as some are so small they are naked to the eye, however, they can be identified by dead, brown patches of grass. Telltale signs of moles and gophers are a little more obvious- dirt hills on the top of your lawn, and beneath them, tunnels and holes. Once you identify that you have pests, you then need to decide the best way for you to take care of the problem.

The first option is to call an expert. Use your local directory or a referral from someone you know that had a similar problem. But if you are like most people today, you may want to do it yourself. And, if you are a DIYer, the first thing you need to do is size up your situation, and what you are up against. Let's look at insects first.

When dealing with insects, the first thing you must realize is that not all insects are bad guys. Sure, we probably would swat at them all, but in reality, some insects can actually act as exterminators against others. Other insects can actually help control your thatch level. There are two types of insects when it comes to the ones who invade your lawn: above and below ground insects. Above ground insects usually feed on your grass, and can be seen fairly easy. Some examples of these can be chinch bugs, green bugs and armyworms.

The below ground insects are just that, they feed on your lawn through the root system, which means they are the most destructive of the two. They are also the most difficult to identify since they are not easily seen. These can include grubs, beetle larvae and billbugs. There are literally thousands of species of insects, far too many to list here. You could borrow a book on insects from your local library, or check out some entomology websites to learn more about what roles and functions they have. After all, you don't want to kill off any allies!

There are five basic types of treatment for anthills and other insects: chemical insecticides, biological insecticides, botanical insecticides, insecticide soaps and predatory insects (remember- some are your friend!). There may also be specific types for specific insects. Weigh each option and choose which one fits your needs the best.

Moles and gophers are two of the most common animal pests, and due to striking similarities they are often confused. Both animals build tunnels under your lawns, but that does not mean they are the same. These two have many things that set them apart from one another. Moles are smaller than gophers, and have pointed snouts and large front claws. They do not feed on your lawn, but the insects that dwell within. Sounds like they are helping you with the insects? Maybe, but the moles' tunnels leave mounds of dirt on the ground above, and their shallow tunnels cause uneven ground.

Gophers, the largest of the pesky pair, have buckteeth and small ears. These creatures love to dine on your grass and plant roots. Gophers also leave mounds of dirt, but they do far more damage underground, causing sinkholes. While your green may not encompass as many acres of the turf in the movie Caddyshack, they can cause just as much recurring trouble. Getting rids of gophers and moles leads to one grand solution- killing them. There are also more conventional methods, such as traps.

The best way to deal with pests though is to perhaps not have them at all. This can be achieved by taking preventative measures in your lawn. But of course, nature has a mind of its own!

About the author: For hundreds of other tips for creating your own perfect lawn, be sure to visit: <a href=""http://www.YourPerfectLawn.com""> http://www.YourPerfectLawn.com</a>

Landscaping Tips: Boost Energy Efficiency with Shading Trees

Author: Carlo Morelli

Article: Air conditioning for cooling homes consumes 5% of the electricity generated in the U.S. With energy costs on the upswing, many homeowners are looking for options to reduce their cooling bills. Although your first thought on this matter may be buying a more energy-efficient air conditioner, you might want to consider using trees and other landscaped plants to shade your home to help reduce cooling costs.

The heat from the sun which windows and roofs soak up can boost your air conditioner use. Putting shading ideas into your landscape plans can help lessen solar heat gain, thus reducing your cooling costs. Shading and evapotranspiration (which is what the process by which a plant moves and releases water vapor is called) from trees can reduce temperatures of surrounding air by up to 9° F (5°C). In fact, air temperatures immediately under trees can be as much as 25°F (14°C) cooler than air temperatures above nearby blacktop surfaces, due to the fact that cool air settles near the ground.

Trees can be chosen with appropriate sizes, densities, and shapes for almost any shading application. You first need to know size, shape, and location of the moving shadow that your shading plant will cast. For blocking heat in the summer but letting it in during winter, select deciduous trees. To provide uninterrupted shade year round, use thick evergreen trees or shrubs.

To provide maximum summertime roof shading, plant Deciduous trees with high, spreading leaves and branches to the south of your house. Trees with branches lower to the ground are better suited to the west, since shade there is required from lower afternoon sunlight. A 6-foot to 8-foot deciduous tree planted close to your home will start to shade windows it's first year. In 5-10 years the tree will shade the roof, depending on the species and the climate. If you have an air conditioner, shading the unit can raise its efficiency by up to 10%.

About the author: Carlo Morelli writes for OnlineTips.Org, where you can read tips on <a href=""http://www.onlinetips.org/radiant-heat-flooring"">radiant heat flooring</a>, <a href=""http://www.onlinetips.org/windowless-air-conditioner"">windo wless air conditioners</a>, and other home improvement topics.

Rose Garden Tips

Author: Kathy Burns-Millyard

Article: Rose Garden Tips

The rose garden ultimately is a get away for you and your thoughts any time of the day. You can plan and create a rose garden of your own that will take away the stress of your day with its beauty. The rose garden that you love and admire so much can be yours if you follow a few easy steps in planning and in raising your roses.

If you have never raised roses before, we have a few great tips and ideas lined up for your reference. One important thing to remember is that roses do love the sunshine. In the garden that is full sun areas only, you will have great success in growing roses. If you have a partially shaded area where you want to grow new rose bushes, you may want to consider moving your plants to where your roses will receive at least six hours of sun a day or more.

When first planting or transplanting a rose bush, water will be an important factor. You will need to water your roses at least once a week as your rose establishes itself. The soil that you plant your rose in does need to drain well, this is important. The rose bush will not thrive in the area moist all of the time. Refraining from planting your rose in an area that fills with puddles will aid in your successful rose gardening.

As your roses grow and change every year, you will need to pick off the dead head flowers. Picking off the flowers that are dead will bring new life to your bush. If you find black spots on the leaves of your rose bush, this will keep your plant from suffering and from any disease from spreading over the entire plant. Treating your plants at the first sign of Japanese beetles is going to save their luscious green leaves from these tiny creatures.

In the spring of the year, you will need to prune your rose bush. The blackened portions of your rose bush need pruned away to promote additional new growth over the entire plant. While pruning your plant in the spring season, pull weed starts so that your plant is not in competition for water or soil nutrients over the growing seasons.

As you plan your rose garden and begin placement, planting roses of the same color next to each other will enhance the over all look of the rose garden. Using too many flowers in one area though, can make the entire rose garden look more jumbled than a wave of color.

One last thing for you to think about when creating and planning a rose garden is to remember to test your soil. Soil testers are widely available and relatively inexpensive. When testing your soil, your pH level is going to be most important for success with roses. A pH level of 5.5 to 6.6 is the ultimate situation for raising a rose garden of your own.

This article is provided courtesy of The Garden Source Network - <A HREF=""http://www.garden-source.com"">http://www.garden-source.com< /a> - a large gardening network devoted to helping you find all the gardening materials you need, such as Seeds, Live Plants, Roses, Trees and Beautiful decor. This article may be distributed and published on any website, as long as this statement and URL remain intact, and the website address is linked properly.

About the author: Need flower and garden products? Visit <A HREF=""http://www.garden-source.com"">The Garden Source Network</a> today!

Plan Before You Plant

Author: Jean Fritz

Article: It's winter, and as you gaze out your picture window, all you see is a 50 square foot patch of bare dirt. After a foray through the top 10 plant catalogues armed with a major credit card and your vivid imagination, that space is crowded with shrubs, bedding plants, bulbs and foliage, all competing for light, water and nutrients. You've created a plant riot.

Planning is vital to creating a noteworthy garden, and winter is the best time to sit down with pencil, paper and reference books. A good garden plan can save time, money and heartache.

SET YOUR SIGHTS ON YOUR SITE

Where is your future garden located? Is it visible to the entire neighborhood, or to your eyes only? Does it receive full sun, or is it shaded part of the day? What is the soil type? All of these factors need to be considered during your planning phase, and will help you screen out your plant choices.

DO YOU HAVE A PURPOSE IN MIND?

Your site may also help determine the garden's purpose. I have two beds within 5 feet of my kitchen door, so they are dedicated to herbs and salad fixings (I can come home from work, pick dinner, go inside and eat.) If your garden is surrounded by a privacy fence, you could consider installing a wildflower plot, or a garden designed with birds and butterflies in mind. These garden styles tend to be unruly, so cloaking them from potentially offended neighbors or homeowners' association spies is a good idea.

Deciding on a particular theme or purpose for the garden plot further narrows your plant choices.

HOW MUCH MAINTENANCE IS INVOLVED?

If you are a harried homeowner with less than 2 hours a week for yard work, installing an annual bed or vegetable garden is not for you. The time you are willing to devote to maintenance is important in choosing plants; the less you want to work, the more you'll want to stick with tried, true and dependable plants such as daylilies, hosta, iris, and groundcovers such as ivy or dead nettle.

If, on the other hand, you relish "fussing," annuals, vegetables, fruit trees or fruiting shrubs (such as raspberries, blackberries or currants), and tea and shrub roses can be added to your landscape. These plants all require routine maintenance including trimming, pruning, weeding, deadheading, and regular pest control.

SIZE, PROPORTION AND BLOOM TIME

A plant's final size – height and width – are also important factors in choosing plant material. Plant size should be in proportion to the size of the bed and the size of any buildings or fixtures. If you've ever seen foundation plants that have overshadowed the home they were supposed to compliment, you'll know what I mean. Those overgrown arborvitae eventually have to be cut down and dug out, which is backbreaking labor, or expensive if you have to hire a Bobcat. Better to plant with the end result in mind.

Bloom time is your final consideration. You may choose to create a mixture of shrubs, bulbs, perennials and annuals in your bed, which will produce a long period of blooming as each group flowers successively. You may decide that one splash of color, followed by a pleasing palate of green, is more to your liking. Knowing when a plant shows its best side (and what it looks like afterward) can help you choose whether that plant belongs in your yard, or if you'll maliciously suggest it to your crabbiest neighbor.

Take the time to plan before you plant, and you'll be rewarded with seasons of color, fragrance, and garden health.

About the author: The author operates a small market farm in east-central Indiana. Her ezine, Leaflets, covers a host of gardening and cooking topics. Subscriptions are free via the KittyVista website (http://clik.to/kittyvista)

Organic Gardening In The Backyard - Fun, Healthy, and Easier Than You May Think

Author: C.J. Gustafson

Article: Organic gardening, which is sometimes thought of as something out of the 60s hippie culture, has been steadily growing in popularity over the years. Not only can you find entire aisles of organics at the local supermarket, the number of specialty stores dedicated to organically grown foods has increased dramatically. Part of this popularity is due to an increasing understanding of the dangers associated with synthetic pesticides and fertilizers. Growing organically generally means gardening without these potentially dangerous chemicals. Many backyard gardeners are turning to organic methods as they realize how easy and effective organic growing can be.

Part of the reason chemical pesticides and fertilizers are so widely used is because they work well. In deciding to use organic methods in your backyard garden, you first will need to accept the fact that you will likely have more pest damage and lower yields than if you were employing chemicals. Many people are willing to make this trade off in return for the opportunity to harvest chemical-free foods for themselves and their families.

There are several different approaches and techniques used in organic gardening. You may find that you are using some of them already. If you have selected cultivars that are resistant to pests or drought, you are involved in one form of organic gardening. If you put out a scarecrow or bars of hand soap to keep animals away, this too is organic gardening. Compost is an organic fertilizer. Organic techniques are around in many gardens already. By utilizing them more and moving away from chemicals, you can improve the environment and lead a healthier lifestyle.

There are different levels of organic gardening and different reasons why people choose organic methods. Some do it because they do not want to harm any animals, even aphids or cutworms. So they try to develop a system where they can cohabitate peacefully, keeping insects and other animals out when possible and removing them or learning to live with them when other options don't work.

Some people are not opposed to pest control and extermination but they don't want to add any more chemicals to the environment or to the food that they eat. Others go organic as a means of getting back to a more historic, natural, and even challenging way of gardening. You will need to decide which methods match your personal philosophies and reasons for going organic.

Pest control and fertilization are two of the key areas to focus on with organic gardening. In addition to using native, resistant plants, mulching, and practicing crop rotation, the use of other natural methods of pest control and of compost and manure as fertilizer can go a long way toward creating a more organic garden.

Pest Control

There are many ways that backyard gardeners can control insects and other pests without the use of synthetic chemicals.

- Use mesh row covers to keep insects off of plants. They need to be removed from squashes, melons, cucumbers, peppers and other plants that require or benefit from pollinations during flowering. - Collars placed around young plants will help prevent damage by cutworms. - Allow natural predators such as ladybugs and wasps to assist you in your efforts by planting vegetation that will attract them to your garden and avoiding pesticides that harm them as well. - Screens, cold frames and fences can help keep some insects and animals such as rabbits out of the garden. - Aphids can be removed from plants with a strong stream of water. Hand removing insects such as potato beetles can be effective in small gardens. - Weed your garden and turn the soil regularly to help reduce the growth of insects that like to nest in certain plant debris. - Learn to identify the egg clusters of harmful insects and remove them immediately - Use homemade insecticides such as garlic spray or other harmless pest inhibitors. - Try using non-invasive methods of pest control including soap bars, cuttings of human hair, or an alert dog in the yard. These techniques may or may not be effective, but are worth a try before resorting to chemicals. - Some home pesticides such as those that use rhubarb or tobacco plants can be very dangerous to humans and other mammals. Use caution and be sure you know what you're getting into before you begin.

Organic Fertilizers

Of course you want your plants to grow quickly and produce large yields. However, chemical fertilizers are potentially harmful to those who eat the plants and to the environment, especially if applied too heavily and allowed to run off into water supplies and habitat areas. Using organic fertilizers can decrease the problems associated with chemicals.

Manure is a natural, effective fertilizer if used properly. Not only does it improve soil structure, it provides the nutrients plants need to develop. Manure that is allowed to age and decompose before use is most effective. Pasteurized manure is less likely to include active weed seed or harmful bacteria. Do not apply too heavily.

Create and maintain a compost pile to use as fertilizer. Not only does it incorporate the use of natural organic material such as leaves, lawn clippings and household waste such as potato peels and carrot stems, it also provides a free source of fertilizer and reduces the amount of waste that is hauled to landfills.

If you choose to use chemical fertilizers, use sparingly and choose a slow release variety that is less likely to leech into vulnerable areas.

Companion planting, which is the practice of putting together two plants that seem to benefit each other, has been offered as a means of enhancing organic gardening practices. It is thought that plants such as nicotina and marigolds are natural pest deterrents. However, there is no firm research to support this as yet. Still, many gardeners have reported success with this method.

Additionally, planting vegetables with prickly vines, such as watermelon or squashes around the perimeter of vulnerable plants may help keep out rabbits and other animals that don't like the scratchy vines.

These days, many gardeners are looking for ways to reduce the use of chemicals and rely on more natural and inexpensive means of providing food for their tale and backyard growing enjoyment. Organic gardening techniques provide fun and healthy options.

About the author: C.J. Gustafson is an amateur gardener and a professional photographer, providing valuable tips and advice about <a href=""http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com/garden-accessories.ht m"">garden accessories</a> and other <a href=""http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com"">vegetable gardening</a> topics. She would rather lose a few ears of corn than go without wildlife in her garden.

Wicker Outdoor Furniture

Author: Hans Dekker

Article: Wicker Outdoor Furniture What can possibly be more gloriously breathtaking than the early morning sky of the sunrise, or the colorful heavens surrounding the setting sun? Imagine yourself seated in the coziest nook of your patio basking in the evening's last rays from your place in a favorite outdoor wicker furniture piece. Just the thought seems to wash away the tenseness of a long day.

Outdoor wicker furniture has a "personality" all of its own. Its comfortable charm can retain its individuality in simplicity or dressed up. Simple wicker settings carry an aura of old-fashioned homey ease that many find nostalgic. It carries the user back to a time when life was simple and there always seemed to be time to sit on the porch to enjoy the newspaper or chat with passing neighbors.

Add some richly colored cushions to your outdoor wicker furniture and create an entirely different setting. Gone are the comforts of home look. In its place is a Victorian look that carries you even further back in time. Prim and proper were in vogue during that era, and indeed your new outdoor setting fits the definition. Of course you'll need a few flower boxes nearby, and everything should be neatly in its place to totally complete the setting.

Do you think we could modernize this outdoor wicker furniture that seems to evoke memories of days gone by? Well, let's give it a try. We'll start with cushions sparsely scattered with medium to large flowers. Of course we want the wicker painted white, and then we'll add a big fern plant or some zebra grass right behind the chair in the corner. Hmmm, our tables need glass tops. How are we doing? Yes, it is looking good, eh?

Wicker is extremely versatile. Regardless of the theme your outdoor furniture needs to convey, wicker can fit the bill. Make a few changes of cushions or color, and presto! You've got what you're looking for.

About the author: I'm the owner and one of the authors of <a href=""http://www.patio-furniture-ideas.com"">Patio Furniture Ideas </a> Visit our site for more ideas and tips

Greenhouse Gardening

Author: Matthew Leo

Article: A Greenhouse can extend your growing season by months and allow you to sow seeds and harvest crops much earlier than you normally would. With proper planning, some crops can be harvested continuously. This can turn your gardening and cultivation into a year round activity. A wider variety of plants started from seed. The germination rate will be much higher as well. The amount of sunlight that a greenhouse allows and the ability to control temperatures will give you a healthier and more productive crop. By starting your crops from seed you can also be assured that your crops are as organic as can be, provided the seeds were not treated with fungicide (ask your nursery). A greenhouse can also make it possible for you to grow plants that you normally may not be able to grow at all due to climate. Many citrus and other fruit crops fall into this category.

Greenhouses come in all shapes, from the standard rectangular shape, to round or even conservatories connected to the house. There is no best size for a greenhouse. The size that fits your space best works fine. Even a small greenhouse can accomodate many plants. Some commercially made greenhouses are extendable with add on sections to add as needed.

The best available material for a greenhouse frame is aluminum. The maintentance is very low, it never deteriorates, and it allows the most light in due to it being thinner than wooden frames.

Make sure you allow for good ventilation. Allow room for at least one work bench. Keep in mind that you will also need storage space in the greenhouse for extra pots, hand tools, etc.

About the author: Matthew Leo is the publisher of numerous websites, including <a href=""http://www.organic-gardening.net"">Organic Gardening</a>, <a href=""http://www.practicalwine.com"">Practical Wine</a> and <a href=""http://www.cooking-recipes.net"">Cooking Recipes</a><br /><br />

Winter Gardening Fun

Author: Ben J. Mann

Article: <h1>"Exchanging Plants, Seeds and Flowers for Winter Gardening Fun"</h1> <h4>Exciting New Winter Garden Fun!</h4>

GardenHere turns grey cold weather months into exciting home <a href=""http://www.gardenhere.com/"">gardening</a> fun.  While other gardening enthusiast are waiting for Spring plant and seed catalogs, GardenHere members are busy growing landscape and flower starts in their window sills to trade with other home gardeners around the country.</p> <img src=""http://www.GardenHere.com/Pictures/HouseXmas.jpg"" align=""right"" width=""200"" height=""149"">

"Winter can be a really fun time of year for home gardeners," said Al Stubblefield, designer and owner of the GardenHere Website.  "Many of our members in the North root plant cuttings in kitchen glasses to offer in exchange for postage or other plants they would like to acquire. Some members offer to trade flower seeds they harvested earlier in the year.</p>

"Even though outside temperatures in my state can easily hit freezing or below this time of year, I have Fuchsia starts and Geraniums in my sunroom window that will be ready for trade in a couple of weeks.  There is still a bucket of <a href=""http://www.gardenhere.com/Plant%20Tips/Daylilies.shtm"">Dayl ily</a> and Iris tubers in the garage that I didn't have time to get in the ground this fall.  I'm sure some of our GardenHere members will want them when spring arrives."</p>

Most gardeners in the South never see snow or experience temperatures even close to freezing.  Some <a href=""http://www.gardenhere.com/"">garden</a> fanatics in the North protect their prize plants in home greenhouses.  Most of these gardeners have too many of some plants and would like to either give a way some of their extra landscape plants and flowers or trade for plant varieties they do not already have.</p>

The GardenHere Internet site makes it easy to exchange plants, seeds and flowers. It takes about 60 seconds to register and membership is free.  After that, home gardeners can place messages in the forums offering their extra plants and flowers, or tell other members what they would like in exchange.  It's all very simple and fun.</p> <img src=""http://www.gardenhere.com/forums/albumtn.aspx?size=mid&imgpa th=148-asppg_Qb371390682.jpg"" align=""left"" width=""200"" height=""149"">

"Last month I received 20 new varieties of Daylilies and two cold hardy Hibiscus plants," said GardenHere founder, Al Stubblefield.  "The only cost to me was postage, which was less than $6 dollars.  That's hard to beat."</p>

Here's what another <a href=""http://www.gardenhere.com/"">garden</a> member had to say, "As many of you know, I started up my own eBay business a few months ago. Well, turns out that a GardenHere member, Fern, had made some purchases from me on e-Bay recently. We figured this out when Fern recognized my name and address I sent her in regards to a trade we were setting up.</p>

"She sent me tons and tons of glad bulbs and bulbils, plus some seeds in exchange for my sedum, ginger and seeds from my prize Zinnias I grew this summer.</p>

"What a small world and what an awesome trade. Thanks again, Fern. I hope to trade again soon," posted by GardenHere Member, Nicole.</p>

GardenHere Member Copperlilac had this to say, "I just finished a trade with Maineroses. I sent her Peonies for Irises and she included a great baby Lupine and seeds as a bonus.</p>

"Thanks for the great trade Maineroses."</p>

Finally, GardenHere Member Dee wrote, "I have some baby Gladiolus. I have so many different colors I couldn't tell you what colors they would be. By the way, do you know how to keep them from having too many offspring? I have to throw away hundreds each year because I have no one to give them to.</p>

Gardeners interested in joining this friendly home <a href=""http://www.gardenhere.com/"">gardening</a> community are invited to register at <a href=""http://www.gardenhere.com/forums"">GardenHere Forums</a>. It only takes about 60 seconds to register and membership is free.</p>

<b>""Exchanging Plants and Flowers is the Neighborly Thing To Do""</b></p>

About the author: &copy 2004 - "GardenHere is one of America's favorite home <a href=""http://www.gardenhere.com/"">gardening</a> communities on the Internet, says owner and web designer Al Stubblefield. "It is a popular place to make friends, do <a href=""http://www.gardenhere.com/"">garden</a> exchanges, trade home gardening tips, and get plant advice."

Brick Patio Weed Control

Author: Hans Dekker

Article: Brick Patio Weed Control In researching this article, I found one instance where a homeowner was so incensed by the weeds in her patio that she set fire to them with a blowtorch! Luckily, several items provide better service as a weeding tool and there are several better alternatives for brick patio weed control.

Of course, the best method of brick patio weed control is proper installation of your brick patio. An under-layment of pea gravel, topped by a layer of sturdy landscape cloth, covered with a layer of sand will give your brick patio a firm footing as well as cramp the style of any weeds in the area. Nevertheless, if your brick patio is already installed and running rampant with weeds, here are some tips to help you succeed in brick patio weed control.

First, to make your brick patio weed control plan a success, implement your plan before weeds flower. This keeps weeds from going to seed and helps make a short-term plan last for a longer time.

For the following tip and other tips that involve weed dousing of one sort or another, use a piece of cardboard or scrap of Plexiglas to protect nearby plants.

One of the best ways to kill a vegetable of any kind is to cook it. Boiling water is a natural and very inexpensive weed-wilter and works to kill most forms of annual weeds and kills or weakens many types of perennial weeds. A teakettle is your weeding tool. Fill it with water and bring it to a boil. While you're waiting (because a watched pot never boils, you know!) go outside and cut the culprits down to their crowns. When the water begins to boil, grab the kettle (using a potholder) and pour the water on the crowns of the weeds, holding the kettle high enough only to avoid splashing. Killing weeds with boiling water will also scald any biological organisms that get splashed, but more will return as soon as the soil cools.

Vinegar will kill most weeds. However, grocery store vinegar is normally a 5% solution and is too weak to do the job. Ten-percent vinegar will kill most weeds and usually is found where canning and pickling supplies are sold. A 20% solution of vinegar kills really stubborn weeds, but is frequently more than twice as expensive as 10%. Try the 10% for brick patio weed control before you make the investment in a stronger solution. Spray the vinegar directly on the weeds, using the shield mentioned above and taking care not to inhale fumes. You may also want to wear gloves and eye protection as a further safeguard for this type of brick patio weed control.

About the author: I'm the owner and one of the site <a href://""http.www.lawnmower-guide.com""> http://www.lawnmower-guide.com </a>Visit our site for more ideas, tips and tricks

How to Significantly Lower Your Wedding Flower Costs

Author: Candice Barrigher

Article: When planning a wedding, it is vital to keep in mind that approximately 5-10% of the budget may be consumed by floral costs. Whether your budget is $5000 or $15,000, this percentage is a significant amount considering all of the other things that are battling over your hard earned dollars (or, your parents' hard earned dollars!) Although the thought of spending so much on an element of your wedding that may not last past the day itself may depress you, flowers add the power of elegance and richness to your event.

"So, what do I do?" is a question that I have been asked. The answer is quite simple; you must find ways to cuts costs and maintain the same desired effect. What most do not find simple is discovering ways to cut the costs. Well, here are a few tried and true ways that will allow you to incorporate one of nature's most glorious creations without breaking the bank.

1) One word…SILK! Silk flowers today appear to be so life-like, that I have actually had to touch and smell a bouquet just to be sure! They come is huge variations of blooms and colors. You are most certain to find silk flowers in exactly the same bloom and color you desire for actual flowers at a fraction of the costs.

2) Purchase flowers that are in season at the time of your wedding. The prices and choices available may vary across the country, but, the guide below is general and may apply in most states.

Summer Blooms

Lilies Asters Straw Flowers Stephanotis

Winter Blooms

Holly Poinsettias

Fall Blooms

Sunflowers Orange Blossoms

Spring/Summer Blooms

Calla Lilies Freesia Magnolias Lily of the Valley

Annual Blooms

Baby's Breath Gerbera Daisies Daisies Freesia Carnations

Spring Blooms

Lilacs Tulips Violets Irises

3) Use decorations that do not require flowers. With a little bit of creativity and compromising, you can create gorgeous centerpieces that are not floral at all. Candles have made some of the best centerpieces I have seen yet. One idea is to place pillar candles in hurricane lamps of varying sizes and place tulle and glitter/confetti around the setting. Candles can create a romantic ambience and will cast a warm, peachy glow on the smiling faces of your guests!

About the author: Candice Barrigher is a Home Entertaining expert, as well as a Certified Bridal Consultant. She has been assisting clients offline for 4 years now and has decided to take her presence on the web in August. The web presence of UniqueEntertaining will contain a plethora of entertaining tips, ideas, advice and many wonderful items that will allow clients to have beautiful and memorable events. She can be reached at Candice@food-and-wine-party-ideas.com

Carnivorous Plants and Black Bears

Author: Jacob Farin

Article: Carnivorous plants native to the United States are accustomed to cold temperatures, frost and snow. That is what really makes these plants very unique. They may look tropical, but really they are as hardy as a black bear in the Rockies.

But, like the black bear, there is something that frost-tolerant plants do not like – dry freezing Arctic wind. This type of wind will pull moisture right out of your plant and cause your plant to wither away.

There are couple ways to protect your plants from the wind, while making sure they stay in hibernation.

Wind protection is only necessary if you live in zones 5 or below and temperatures routinely go below 20°F for more than a week at a time.

Like the black bear, you can place your plants in a cave. If you do not have a cave in your backyard, place your plants in an unheated garage, tool shed or cold frame, which is essentially an unheated greenhouse.

Because the plants are dormant and has stopped growing for the winter, light is not much of an issue. Just make sure the soil is always moist. You can maintain its moisture by keeping the plant in no more than 1/4-inch of water.

Before placing your plants in your cave, so to speak, follow these important steps:

1. Cut off all dead leaves. With any of the Sweet Pitchers (Sarracenia rubra), trim all the leaves right down to the rhizome. This will help reduce moisture loss. There is no need to do this other species.

2. Give the plant a good spraying with a sulfur-based fungicide. (We use Safer brand.) Follow the instructions as directed by the manufacturer.

3. Place your plant in an unheated shelter, and keep the soil moist at all times.

This is perhaps the simplest method of protecting your plant from the dry freezing Arctic wind. Just remember that it is not frost that destroys outdoor container plants. It is dry freezing wind.

In April, it will be safe to bring your plants out of dormancy, which happes to be about the same time black bears come back out and begin foraging.

If you live in zones 6 and above, wind protection is necessary when there is a brief cold snap, bringing the temperature down below 20°F. In this case, wind protection is usually temporary and covering your plants with a tarp or sheets of plastic will do the trick.

About the author: Jacob Farin is co-owner of Sarracenia Northwest, a nursery specializing in the cultivation of carnivorous plants. More information about the cultivation of carnivorous plants can be found at http://www.cobraplant.com.

Keep Your Valentine Roses Looking Fresh

Author: Gerry Belvedere

Article: Valentine's Day is almost upon us so most of you lucky ladies will receive some beautiful red roses on the day. I have some tips on how to extend the life (and your enjoyment) of your roses.

Hopefully your flowers will have been harvested less than 14 days ago; of course this depends on where you live, local supply, and transport issues. If your roses have been transported flat in boxes (not wet packed) you will only get half the shelf life of roses packed in water from the harvest stage.

When your get your flowers home, take the following steps to extend their shelf life:

1. Cut a good inch off the stems and place in warm water for a while to get them drinking.

2. Add some sugar as a first aid remedy.

3. Clean a vase with bleach and hot water, tip out and half fill with cool water and 1 teaspoon of bleach. This will stop bacteria breeding in the water and infecting the stems of your roses.

4. Transfer roses into the vase.

5. Spray the heads with a mister often. All flowers drink from the petals and leaves, even if the stems are deteriorating.

6. Change the water every third day and recut the stems. This will revive even droopy flowers.

Enjoy, and happy Valentine's Day!

About the author: Gerry Belvedere runs a rose farm and online florist service at <a href=""http://www.rosaflora-flowers.com""> www.rosaflora-flowers.com</a>. Rosaflora delivers flowers Australia wide and overseas and offers tips on getting the most out of your cut flowers.

Growing Great Tomatoes

Author: Karen Gross

Article: For many people, growing big juicy tomatoes is part of what makes vegetable gardening so enjoyable. Whether purchasing plants from your local nursery or starting tomatoes from seed, there are a few basic steps to follow to ensure that you harvest an abundant crop at the end of the growing season. There are many different varieties of tomatoes to choose from, depending on whether you will be cooking, canning, slicing, or eating miniature or grape-like varieties right off the vine. Sweet 100's are very abundant, and are good for salads as well as eating fresh from the garden. Roma tomatoes are good for making salsa, because the peels are not as tough as others so you don't need to peel the skins off. Romas are also known as the classic paste and sauce tomato. There are Early Girls, Early Boys, Big Boys, Big Mamas, Sweet Baby Girls, Beefsteaks, French Rose hybrids, Big Rainbow, specialty tomatoes and many more. So start by choosing the kind of tomato you would like to grow.

Planting Tomatoes from Seeds

Tomatoes grown from seed will require six to eight weeks before they can be planted in the garden. Purchase individual containers or flats, starter soil or mixture, and the seeds of your choice. Fill each container with soil, pressing it tightly to remove air and to avoid settling problems after watering. Typically, seed companies print instructions for planting right on the tomato seed package. Each variety is a little different so follow instructions carefully. Prepare a label identifying the type of tomato and the date started. You can make your own from Popsicle sticks or purchase them at the store or garden center.

Insert your label in the pot and mist with water. Place containers in a sunny window and keep seeds moist by placing a plastic bag over them. Small greenhouse containers are also available at your local nursery. Watch for seeds to germinate and remove plastic when plants emerge. Wean out weaker looking seedlings to give strong ones more room to grow. Keep moist by misting or watering tomatoes when needed. When plants have a second pair of leaves it is time to transplant these seedlings to your garden or a large pot in which they are to grow.

It is a good idea to harden off or acclimatize a plant to outdoor conditions before planting by setting it out in direct sun during the day and bringing it in at night. After a few days, the tomato plant will have adapted to the new surroundings and can be transplanted in the desired location. Place plants directly outdoors after the threat of frost in a shady location, out of the wind and protected from heavy rains.

Purchasing Started Plants

If you prefer to purchase plants from your garden center or greenhouse, select dark green plants that are stocky in size and that do not have any fruit. The fruit will stunt the plant growth and the total yield will be reduced. Tomatoes are one of the few plants that will tolerate being planted deeper than they sit in the pot. So a taller plant can be placed a little deeper if preferred. As mentioned, harden off the plant before moving it to a final location.

Preparing Garden Soil For Tomato Plants The soil should be deep, loamy, and well-drained for the best harvest. Tomatoes prefer a slightly acidic soil with a pH of 6.2 to 6.8. The term pH balance refers to acidity or the alkalinity of your soil from a numerical scale of 1.0 to 14.0. The neutral point on the pH scale is 7.0. Higher than 6.5 indicates alkaline soil, lower than that indicates acidic soil.

Test kits are available at garden centers or through local horticultural organizations. To raise the soil's pH, work agriculture lime into the soil. Use sulfur to lower the pH of alkaline soil. Using fertilizers and compost amendments will also change the soil's pH over time. Adding decomposed organic compost will improve any soil structure. You can purchase or make your own compost. Once you have cultivated your garden area and prepared the soil, it is ready for the plantings.

Planting The Tomatoes

Inspect all of the transplants, looking for insects, wilting or blight. Plant only healthy plants. Tomatoes prefer full sun, so choose an area with at least six to eight hours of sun per day. Practice crop rotation in your vegetable gardening by planting tomatoes and other vegetables in a different spot every year. Tomatoes prefer to be planted by chives, parsley, marigolds, nasturtiums, garlic bulbs, and carrots. Avoid planting tomatoes by potatoes or members of the cabbage family.

For large healthy tomatoes, give them plenty of room to grow. Space plants twenty-four inches between rows and leave twenty-four inches between plants. With your shovel or spade, make holes slightly larger than the plants. Tap gently on the bottom of the individual container, loosening the soil and gently removing from the pot. Tomatoes are susceptible to cutworms, but placing a 3-4 inch nail next to each stem before planting or wrapping strips of newspaper around the bottom of the stems will help prevent these pests. A paper cup surrounding the stem also works well.

Place tomato plant in hole and back fill with soil until it is well compacted. Place a rack or cage around each individual plant to help support future growth. Water around the base of the plant, avoiding the foliage. Do not over water or soak the seedlings as this can promote disease and rot. Water early in the day to discourage blight.

Using a rake, spread organic mulch, such as weed-free straw, over plants at least two inches deep. These is an effective way to prevent weeds, preserve water and keep the soil warm, thus reducing the maintenance required for vegetable gardening. Fertilize the plants throughout the growing season with compost or organic matter. Water when needed and inspect leaves periodically for the signs of tomato blight and insects. If blight is discovered, remove any infected leaves and destroy them. Treat plant with a fungicide. Be sure to remove all debris from your garden in the fall, as blight can survive on the dried tomatoes over the winter.

Most tomatoes take 100-days to bear fruit, so follow these easy directions and get ready to harvest the fruits of your labors and enjoy that first BLT of the season.

Items Needed For Growing Tomatoes:

- Tomato seeds or plants - Containers or flats - A small greenhouse kit or plastic bags - Starter soil or mixture - Marking pen - Popsicle sticks or labels - Rake - Spade and shovel - Water, sun, adequate soil and patience

About the author: Karen Gross is a professional gardener and design consultant. She writes for www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com, providing valuable tips and advice about <a href=""http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com/seed-companies.htm"">s eed companies</a>, <a href=""http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com/greenhouse-kits.htm""> greenhouse kits</a> and other vegetable gardening topics.

Pest Control for the Vegetable Garden

Author: Karen Gross

Article: One of the biggest challenges for vegetable gardeners is pest control. Anyone who has tried to keep a determined deer from eating the sweet corn knows how difficult it can be to deter animals, including insects, birds, rabbits and other wildlife from what, for them is a natural smorgasbord. From their perspective, there sit these wonderful veggies, all neat and weeded, almost as if you placed the plants there just for them. And so animals that we might otherwise enjoy can become a nuisance when it comes to the garden.

While avoiding wildlife is nearly impossible, chemical pesticides are often an effective means of deterring unwanted insects. However, many gardeners are uncomfortable using these harsh chemicals that can leak into water supplies and harm the environment. They also have concerns about using chemicals in the foods they feed their families. Here are some ideas for more organic pest control.

Crop Rotation

Practicing crop rotation every year in your vegetable garden and using companion plants will improve your soil and keep the pests under control. Most insects need time to become established in the soil. They may take two to three seasons to get their life cycle established. By practicing vegetable rotation and varying the type of plants grown in a particular area from year to year, you can avoid establishing plant specific types of garden pests.

Companion Planting

Certain varieties of garden plants are less attractive to pests. To deter rabbits, plant green onions amongst the lettuce plants. Plant several radish seeds in each hill of cucumber seeds to protect against the cucumber beetle. And when planted near each other, cucumbers will prevent raccoons from eating all the sweet corn, while the corn will reciprocate by preventing cucumber wilt.

Tomatoes like to be near chives, parsley, marigolds, garlic bulbs, nasturtiums, gooseberries, asparagus, and carrots. Tomatoes have a natural defense for pest control against the asparagus beetle and are also effective in keeping insects away from gooseberries. Carrots on the other hand are nearly every garden pest's friend. To control the carrot fly pest, plant onions, rosemary, or leeks nearby. Potatoes like to be planted near corn, horseradish, broccoli, cabbage and peas. Avoid planting by tomatoes, melon, and cucumbers.

Some vegetable gardeners plant pumpkins, squash, and cucumbers among the corn. The heavy growth and scratching of the vines and leaves helps keep rabbits, raccoons and other hungry critters at bay.

Tricks of the Trade

In addition to the planting methods described above, there are a number of non-pesticide options for organic pest control. Human or dog hair spread around the garden and hung from tree limbs acts as a good pest repellent, as do bars of soap hung from shepherds hooks or laid right in the soil. Deer do not like the smell of rotting eggs, so a mixture of 9 eggs with 2.5 gallons of water sprayed on ½ acre of crop will deter deer from entering the area, but the solution is diluted enough to avoid annoying humans.

Deer tend to be nervous and wary animals and can be scared off by annoying wind activated garden fixtures, plastic foil tape, scarecrows and whirligigs. Those that make noise, such squeaking, fluttering, or tinkling, work best. You may have to move these items around and rotate selection to keep the deer from getting use to them. Dogs are also a good source to keep watch over the garden and help scare off unwanted wildlife diners.

Tall fences (9 to 10 feet high) planted firmly in the ground are the best way to keep deer out of the vegetable garden. An inexpensive chicken-wire fence at least 24 inches high is often enough to keep those pesky rabbits out of your garden. Or a solution of cayenne pepper spray on the plants after a rain will sometimes deter rabbits from nibbling. Dried blood meal, which rabbits do not favor, can be sprinkled around when planting. The flavor will absorb though the root system of the vegetables, making them less appetizing. As an ongoing garden pest control, blood meal can be added to the soil every two weeks.

Live traps can be used for smaller rodents and rabbits. Bait the traps with a small amount of peanut butter, check them regularly, and transport any captured animals to another location immediately. Wear plastic gloves when handling live traps to prevent exposure to diseases carried by rodents and their parasites. Sticky insect traps and lures are another good pest control. Paint a thick piece of cardboard a bright color to attract the pest, and coat with a sticky substance such as Stick-em or Tanglefoot.

Electronic Pest Control

There are several electronic pest control devices available on the market as well, including electric fences, motion detecting water sprayers, and ultrasonic noisemakers that humans can't hear, but that garden pests find annoying. There are some units on the market that allow you to adjust the unit to the pest you are trying to drive away, without bothering the other critters you would like to have around.

Electric fencing can be installed around the perimeter of the yard. Some of these products claim to be strong enough to deter deer from entering the garden, but weak enough that they do not hurt family pets.

Moles feed on earthworms and grubs, not plants, which can make them a benefit to gardens, but as part of their natural activity, moles tunnel through the soil, causing damage to delicate plant roots. Battery or solar operated devices can be placed in the ground to help deter moles from burrowing in your garden. Place a few around the garden to prevent these pests from making paths in a new area.

Beneficial Bugs

Insects that prey upon garden pests are called beneficial insects. In nature these insects keep the garden pests under control. Encourage beneficial bugs by avoiding the use of commercial pesticides as these are usually non-discriminatory and will kill good and bad bugs alike. A small number of pests in the garden will encourage those beneficial bugs to stick around and multiply, making your work easier.

Ladybugs are natural enemies of aphids. Green lacewing in larvae stage feeds on thrips, mites, aphids, and various other insect eggs. Trichogramma wasps are effective against corn earworm, tomato hornworm, and loopers. The tiny wasps are also a parasite to many kinds of caterpillars.

Sprays and Soaps

There are many organic pest control sprays you can make at home, as well as purchasing less harmful insecticidal soaps. Many of the homemade sprays include ingredients such as garlic, onion, or cayenne pepper. A word of caution when using sprays intended to go directly on the plants. Never apply sprays in the heat of the afternoon sun. The water can heat up very quickly and cause brown spots to appear on the leaves.

Most gardeners have a connection with the earth and enjoy the wildlife and insects nature has provided…just not in the garden! For those who prefer to practice organic pest control, there are many options. They may not work as well as pesticides in some cases, but they are a lot less harmful and can even add fun and beauty to your garden.

About the author: Karen Gross is a professional gardener and design consultant. She provides valuable tips and advice about <a href=""http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com/seed-companies.htm"">s eed companies</a>, <a href=""http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com/container-gardening.h tm"">container gardening</a> and other <a href=""http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com"">vegetable gardening</a> topics.

The Magic of Flowers

Author: Karen Escaland

Article: <b><i>Flowers</b></i> are natural gifts that beautify our environment. Whether used in an arrangement to grace the kitchen table or placed in a vase by the bedside, flowers provide a sense of invitation and welcome to guests and offer the sweet fragrances of springtime in the process. The gift of flowers can brighten anyone's day and bring an abundance of happiness to those who receive them.

<i>Flowers are Magic</i>

The gift of a single flower is often a reflection of a romantic intention or some other form of feelings that are being expressed to another. Such an offering can bring magic to the moment, if received by a special someone. More than simply offering a pleasant experience to the senses, flowers can bring an acute sense of pleasure to the heart of the recipient.

According to previous studies, a floral aroma can have an impact on human emotions, in contrast to unpleasant odors, which can cause irritability and a sense of discontent. The very color of a flower may have a profound effect on an individual.

<i>Flowers and Their Meanings</i>

Contrary to what you may have been told, there are no specific meanings that are associated with flower types or colors. When giving the gift of flowers, people tend to personalize the experience by offering the types and/or colors that carry a significant meaning to the person or occasion. Due to the widespread belief, however, that certain meanings are attached to particular flower types, the Society of American Florists has composed a list of flower/meaning associations, in accordance with their histories.

Meanings according to type: Anemone - Fragility; Apple Blossom - Promise; Baby's Breath - Festivity; Begonia - Deep Thoughts; Camellia - Graciousness; Daisy - Innocence; Forget-Me-Not – Eternal Remembrance; Holly - Domestic Happiness; Lilac - First Love; Orchid - Delicate Beauty;

Meanings according to color: Pink Rose - Friendship; Red Rose - Passion; Red & White Rose - Love and Unity; Yellow Rose - Zeal; Purple Tulip - Royalty;

<b><i>Cut Flowers</i></b> As a result of the mounting global market and technological advances, an abundance of flower varieties are available throughout the year. Some of the most beautiful and diverse arrangements contain a mixture of fresh cut and other types of flowers or plants. Contained within this section are some of the more common varieties that are available through most local florists.

One of the more classic flowers – the rose – is available in a variety of genres, including the tea rose, the sweetheart rose and the spray rose. The nearly 120 arrays of roses that retailers commonly carry contain all shades of the spectrum, such as those of the red, pink, purple, orange, coral, peach and white families. The style of growth, as well as color, may differ from type to type. For example, tea roses will open from three to four inches, with stems spanning 12 to 30 inches in length; whereas the stems of spray roses may contain several flowers each.

The variety and type of rose will determine its life span, but most will typically live between four and seven days after cutting. Due to their delicate nature, stems should be placed in the vase very gingerly. In order to reduce the build-up of bacteria, any foliage that is apparent immediately above the water line should be removed. For maximum life expectancy, stems should be re-cut every two to three days.

Lilies may also be referred to by variety, such as in the case of the Asiatic Lily or Oriental Lily. These flower types can be recognized by their trumpet-shaped petals and can reach six inches in diameter. The height of their stems can reach up to three feet and may sport four to eight blossoms. Their color varieties include white, yellow, pink, red and orange.

Due to their poisonous nature – specifically concerning the members of the feline family - the National Animal Poison Control Center recommends keeping all forms of lilies out of the reach of your household pets.

Tulips – known by no specific variety names – grow as single blossoms, containing six petals each. Variations include those of the lily-flowering, double flowering, fringe-petaled and ruffled parrot genres. The color array includes white, yellow, pink, peach, orange, red, lavender and purple, as well as a bi-color variety.

The orchid, also known as cymbidium, dendrobium, oncidium, cattleya and phalaenopsis, are available in a variety of shapes and sizes – the largest of these being cymbidiums. Including all varieties, there are currently over 17,000 species which span the globe.

Personal preference will dictate which flower, color and/or arrangement is most suitable for that special someone in your life, as well as which room of the house in which to display the arrangement.

<i>The Growing Popularity of <b>Wildflowers</b></i>

While these were once seen as mere weeds, the misunderstood wildflower has recently gained popularity, as a result of the botanical education that's been offered by a variety of gardening experts. Wildflowers serve a purpose beyond that of simple beauty, as evidenced by the fact that small country gardens containing these types of flowers are known to attract birds and caterpillars. Growing such a garden is beneficial, both to the senses and to the area wildlife.

Among the more popular wild flowers are honeysuckle, foxglove, red campion, lesser celandine, herb Robert and forget-me-not. Certain areas of the world have developed such an appreciation for wildflowers that the uprooting of them is illegal. Many people agree with this, since they tend to think of it in terms of preventing the removal of the landscape's natural beauty.

About the author: Author Karen Escaland is the publisher of Avon <a href=""http://www.avonflowers.com/"">Flowers</a> a source of quality information for anyone with an interest in Flowers. For more articles please visit http://www.avonflowers.com/newsletters/archive.shtml