Who Else Wants Vigorously Growing Carnivorous Plants?

Author: Jacob Farin

Article: Many people who have seen our <b>carnivorous plants</b> at the Farmer's Market often ask us, "How do you get our plants looking so good every summer?"

Our secret? Yearly repotting. Repotting is very important to encourage new growth. It freshens the soil, aerates the roots and gives the plant more room to grow.

Freshening the soil is important because carnivorous plants grow in nutrient-free soil. Over time, nutrients from mineral and bacteria buildup in the soil slow down the growth of carnivorous plants. This is why it is important to replace the soil every year, or every two years at the very least.

Repotting also aerates the roots. Roots need oxygen for vigorous growth. Without it, plant growth will be very minimal. Over the year, soil becomes compacted, which decreases the amount of oxygen entering the soil. By repotting your plants, you loosen up the soil and give your plants the much need oxygen they need.

Finally, by repotting your plants into a larger pot, you give them more room to grow. This will increase the size of your rhizomes. It will also provide added protection during the winter months. Some of our carnivorous plants in our private collection are so large that they require 5-gallon pots!

Here are some of the ideal pot sizes for your carnivorous plants: * <b><a href=""http://www.cobraplant.com/venus-flytrap.html"">Venus Flytrap</b></a>: 4 inches * Medium <b>Sarracenia</b> species: 4 to 5 inches * Large <b>Sarracenia</b> species: 5+ inches * <b>Sundews</b>: 4 inches * <b>Asian Pitcher Plants</b>: 5+ inches

With Sarracenia species, Venus Flytraps and taller varieties of sundews, make sure the pot is tall. We have found that these plants grow bigger in taller pots than in shorter ones.

The exceptions to the yearly repotting rule are the Australian Pitcher Plant and the Sun Pitcher Plant. Both of these plants do not respond well with root disturbances. Furthermore, there is evidence that the Australian Pitcher Plant has a symbiotic relationship with a soil fungus, so replacing its soil too frequently can harm the plant. All other types of carnivorous plants, however, can be repotted yearly.

The best time to repot your plants is right before they emerge from dormancy, which would be March through April. You can also repot your plants at other times of the year as long as you minimize disturbance to their roots.

As for soil, use a standard mix of 1 part peat moss and 1 part perlite. The peat moss retains moisture and adds acidity, while the perlite provides aeration and drainage.

Because carnivorous plants grow in nutrient-poor soil, avoid using regular potting soil, fertilizer and compost. These items are toxic to carnivorous plants and will burn their roots. Very painful.

As you repot your plants, clip off any dried leaves from the previous year. I generally clip off all leaves that have brown spots on them. Sometimes this means clipping off all the leaves on the plant, which is often the case with taller Sarracenia species.

With Yellow Trumpet and Green Pitcher Plants, clip off their non-carnivorous winter leaves after new growth has been established.

So, set aside some time in March and April to repot your carnivorous plants. You will be greatly rewarded with vigorously growing plants this summer.

If you need growing instructions for specific species, such as <b>Venus Flytraps</b>, visit <b><a href=""http://www.cobraplant.com"">Sarracenia Northwest</b></a> at <b><a href=""http://www.cobraplant.com"">http://www.cobraplant.com</a >.

About the author: Jacob Farin is co-owner of <b><a href=""http://www.cobraplant.com"">Sarracenia Northwest</b></a> (<b>http://www.cobraplant.com) and a recognized carnivorous plant expert at AllExperts.com.

5 Secrets To Growing Beautiful Roses

Author: Abigail Baker

Article: A rose is a rose is rose - and there are few things in the garden more beautiful. There are 5 secrets I want to share that will help you to grow healthy roses.

1. Sunshine: Plan to put your rose bush in a spot where it will get as much sun at least 6 hours of sunshine a day.

2. Water: Drops of water on the leaves can cause burning, and lead to black spot disease so always water from underneath, soaking the earth until it is damp but not soggy. It is better to water thoroughly once a week than lightly several times in the same period.

Beware if your Roses get too much water, they'll drown. Water in the morning or at least four or five hours before dusk so that any excess moisture can be absorbed by the heat of the day.

3. Planting & Soil: As soon as the ground can be worked in the Spring, turn the soil to the depth of the spade. To the loosened soil add 1/3 to 1/2 as much again of composted humus like leaf mold, peat moss, or composted manure, together with coarse sand. Make sure to work the soil at least a month before planting.

4. Tidy, Tidy: Keep Roses healthy, it is important to gather up withered petals and leaves and pick off any live leaves with black spots. Prevent black spot - mix 1 tbs of baking soda with 1 tbs of liquid dish soap and 1 gallon of water together and spray your Rose leaves.

5. Prune: Always prune 1/4"" above an outward facing bud. Always use a sharp knife or hand pruners. Never prune in fall. Always cut off the suckers, they grow just below the bud union; follow them down to where they begin and carefully remove them to encourage strong new growth.

Roses are classified into types according to ancestry, bush type, and flower form and size - ask at your local nursery for the type you prefer.

About the author: Abigail Baker is webmaster and contributing editor for Country Mall Place at http://www.acplace.com/

Funky, Fun Garden Plants

Author: Valerie Garner

Article: I have a love for funky, fun and uniquegarden plants. Here's one to try.It's called Sea Holly, and it's actually in thethistle family. Sea Holly is a perennial garden plant, which means you plant it once and it comes up year after year, somewhat depending on your climate.

This plant never did fail to bring attention andcomments from people seeing my garden. It grows about3-4 feet high, very branchy and the branches are abrilliant electric blue color. It's stunning!

The only drawback to this lovely plant, in the fallyou must cut it to the ground and burn or compost theplant. Do not let it go longer than that, or it will be casting seeds and you'll soon discover it's family trait ofbeing a thistle, if you know what I mean. The following spring, it'll come back again to it'sbeauty.

It is an easy plant to grow and does best with fullsun, or as much sun as is available to you. I live inthe Pacific Northwest, U.S.A. so we get a lot of rain andfairly mild summers and yet it seems to be enough forthis plant. You can search for Sea Holly seeds in seed catalogs or sometimes you can find it in some nurserys. Aninternet search would surely find you a source forthis lovely plant.

I thought I'd let you know about one of the coolest,funky plants for outdoors I've ever run across. It's calledEvening Scented Stock, it is NOT the common stock, however.

This is an annual plant, that needs to be sown early spring, directly into the soil where it is to bloom and grow. I recommend planting it nearby windows and doors, porches, etc. This plant really doesn't look like much in and of itself, it's not a pretty plant per se..but when about 5:00 PM rolls around watch it do its stuff! This plant has a VERY powerful fragrance similar to hyacinths or lilacs. At the gentlestbreeze it sends a waft of fragrance to die for. This is why it's so excellent to plant near a window, door or pathway. When you open up your screen in the evening, this will scent your entire house.

One place that I have found the seeds for this rare plant is atFragrant Path, PO Box 328, Fort Calhoun, NE 68023

Here's another one to try. This one is called Autumn Crocus.In this case you can tell a lot by it's name. You generally purchase it as a bulb, which are usually quite large. It does return year after year without needing to re-plant it.

In the spring it shoots up a lot of foliage, this is preparing the plant for it's autumn blooms, be sure to just leave this alone. Come about mid June or so, this foliage starts looking like it's dying, again just leave it be. In late August/early September, when most of the flowers are past their prime and the garden is starting to look sparse, out comes the AutumnCrocus, with their beautiful lilac colored blooms. They bloom for quite a long time when few things are blooming. A fun plant, give it a try!

This one is an annual (only lives 1 growing season) plant called Love Lies Bleeding. It's as strange as it's name.It is very easy to grow. You just simply direct seed itin the soil (full sun preferably) where it is to grow inthe spring. It's height seems to vary greatly. I've seenit be as small as about 2 feet high, and reach up to 6 or7 feet high. It's ""flowers"" are long, burgandy coloredropes that hang. It is simply stunning. Always getsattention! It will usually re-seed itself so you'll getnew plants the following year without doing anything.It's best to try to find this seed in an unusual typeseed catalog. It is in the amaranth family.

Here's the last one. Ever tried the hellebore family?There are many varieties. They are perennial whichmeans they come back year after year. These are best planted in shady areas, but where they will get sun in the winter, like under leafed trees or something of that nature.

What is so unusual about hellebores is that they bloomsomewhere between Dec. and March. There are very fewplants that do that! One variety is called a ChristmasRose. It's quite striking to see flowers in the midstsometimes of snow.

These plants usually must be puchased at a nursery.Check out your local nursery for this wonderful familyof plants.

About the author: By Valerie Garner, mom and proud grandma, and owner of Joyful Designs in Soy (Candles) at: http://www.joyfuldesignsinsoy.com

Facts about the marigold flower

Author: Linda Paquette

Article:

It's a well known fact that the marigold flower is one of the favorites in the home garden, but as well as an attractive and useful bedding plant, the marigold has enjoyed continued use for culinary, medicinal, and cosmetic purposes as well.

1.The most common types of marigold are the wild marsh marigold, the tall African marigold, and the robust French marigold. African and French cultivars frequently are hybrid to sustain longer bloom and soften their pungent aroma. The resulting plant is called a triploid marigold, which is commonly called the mule marigold because of its poor ability to produce seeds.

2.Latin for the common or marsh marigold is Calendula officinalis, christened as such because ancient Romans noticed that it bloomed on the first, or calends, of every month.

3.For centuries, it was believed that the marigold opened in the morning and closed at night. This trait has often been mentioned in literature, most notably by Shakespeare in "A Winter's Tale" where he wrote,

"The Marigold that goes to bed wi' th' sun, And with him rises weeping…"

4.As far back as the 15th century, Marigold was thought to be a remedy for a number of medical problems including headache, jaundice, red eyes, toothache, bee sting, sprains, wounds, and ague (chills and fever). However, it was noted by Stevens in Countrie Farm that, "It must be taken only when the moon is in the Sign of the Virgin and not when Jupiter is in the ascendant, for then the herb loses its virtue."

5.Early Anglo-Saxons called the Marigold "Golds" or "Ruddes" and flowers were often boiled to extract their yellow color for food colorings, fabric, and even hair dyes. After extraction, a yellow powder remains. In 1819, Geiger chemically analyzed the marigold and named this yellow powder "Calendulus". Today the marigold flower still is dried, the petals ground and used as a substitute for the herb saffron.

6.Marigold petals mixed with chicken feed add intensity to the color of the egg yolks.

About the author: Linda is the main author of <a href=""http://www.gardening-guides.com"">Gardening Guides</a> and <a href=""http://www.patio-furniture-ideas.com"">Patio Furniture Ideas</a>

Blue Wild Flowers for Your Garden

Author: Kathy Burns-Millyard

Article: Planting wild flowers in your garden, or simply scattering wild flower seeds around an area of your yard are both ways to take advantage of Mother Nature's treasured gifts. Wild flowers are carefree, colorful, and tend to attract bees, butterflys and birds. So planting wild flowers not only gives you an easy maintenance flower garden... it also promises to be a constant source of interesting activity throughout the year.

The following wild flowers are blue to purple in color, and some say this is a favorite color of bees.

VIRGINIA or COMMON DAY-FLOWER (Commelina Virginica) - Spiderwort family The Day Flower has blue, one inch wide or smaller flowers which tend to be irregular. The flowers are grouped at the end of the stem, and are upheld by long leaf-like bracts. The leaves are lance-shaped and 3-5 inches long. The upper leaves form like a hood of sorts about the flower. These wild flowers prefer moist, shady ground and flower from June through September.

The day flower tends to open in the morning and looking somewhat ""alert"". In the afternoon, or after the bees have visited and fertilized it, the petals roll up and quickly wilt into a wet, shapeless mass which will leave a sticky blue fluid on your fingers if you touch it.

SPIDERWORT; WIDOW'S or JOB'S TEARS (Tradescantia Virginiana) - Spiderwort family The Spiderwort's flowers are purplish blue in color but on rare occasion they can be white. There's usually several flowers about 1-2 inches wide, and usually contain clusters of drooping buds between long, blade-like bracts at the end. This one can grow from 8-36 inches tall, and has long blade-like leaves. It prefers rich, moist woods, thickets or garden space, and it flowers from May through August.

Like its relative the dayflower, the spiderwort opens for part of a day only. In the morning it is wide awake and pert; early in the afternoon its petals have begun to retreat and wither away. New blooms appear each day throughout the season though.

WILD HYACINTH, SCILLA or SQUILL. QUAMASH (Quamasia kyacinthina; Scilla Fraseri of Gray) - Lily family

The Wild Hyacinth tends to produce many pale violet blue flowers, though once in awhile they can be white. There tend to be equal groups of 6 flowers on long, oblong-shaped branches. The plant tends to grow 1-2 feet tall, and has grass-like, short leaves. These wild flowers prefer meadows, prairies and stream banks, and they bloom from April to May.

These wild flowers tend to be low maintenance, and they propogate on their own, without being invasive. In addition to attracting bees, the Wild Hyacinth also tends to attract ants, wasps, flies, butterflies, and beetles.

Whether you prefer to start your flowers from seeds or potted starter plants, wild flowers are a wonderful addition to any type of garden. Creating a stand alone wild flower garden is also a fantastic way to make a great, naturalized impression in large or unused areas of your landscape.

Watch for future articles where I'll introduce you to many other wild flowers in a variety of other colors too!

About the author: &copy; 2005, Kathy Burns-Millyard, The Garden Source Network - <a href=""http://www.garden-source.com"">http://www.garden-source.com< /a> - A premier online publication featuring gardening articles, tips, advice, resources, shopping and supplies. This article may be freely published on any website, as long as the author, copyright, website address and link, and this notice are left intact.

New for 2006- Granite Flexible Preformed Rock Pond Kits

Author: Gerry Fung

Article: So you've decided to build your very own backyard water garden. You are in the process of actively planning out your design, and you're visualizing the end-result. But have you paused to consider what kind of pond construction you will be using? Do you know what kind of pond constructions exist? The majority of garden ponds utilize one of two types of constructions: a preformed shell, or a pond liner.

Traditionally, preformed ponds are large shells, which are extremely burdensome and difficult to transport. For example, a typical preformed pond kit would come in a box that is 60" x 48" x 24", which is too large for many car trunk sizes. Liner kits, on the other hand, present many difficulties for the beginner pond gardener. Since every liner pond shape is different, pond gardeners must customize their own pond and ensure that it is level, and that it does not have excessive wrinkling.

Recently, Algreen Products Inc. has helped leverage both these problems by introducing a flexible preformed pond. The folding preformed/liner hybrid is created with a proprietary blend of materials, which allows it to hold a customized shape. Yet it is easily transportable, since a typical folding kit comes in a box one-sixth the size of a regular preformed kit.

The only problem with the folding pond shell was that it was a dark solid black color. Black is a color that does not occur naturally in a pond environment, nor is it very easy to disguise. No matter how much landscaping you apply around the black shell, it is still extremely difficult to hide the fact that you are using a preformed pond.

New for 2006, Algreen is proud to announce the development of a granite flexible rock pond kit! This new folding pond shell has all the benefits of its black preformed predecessor, but both the pond and the streamlet look like rock.

Algreen advertises that its folding pond includes 3 built-in plant shelves, is weather-resistant, and is able to withstand extreme temperatures from 0 F to 105 F. Each pond shell features textured ridges, which are strategically placed to allow beneficial bacteria to form growth colonies, which significantly reduces algae-buildup in the pool.

Currently, there are two sizes of granite pond shells available from GardenSuperMart (<a href = ""http://www.gardensupermart.com"">GardenSM.com</a>): a 144 gallon shell, and a 72 gallon shell. Both pond kits come complete with:

- The granite flexible pond shell

- A flexible streamlet

- An energy-efficient, heavy-duty Super Flo pump (500 or 306 gph, for the 144 gallon and 72 gallon shells respectively)

- A telescopic riser and diverter for the Super Flo pump

- Four fountain heads

- Two 6" silk water lilies

- Tubing and clamps.

At the time of this article, GardenSuperMart is also including a FREE SuperGlo underwater light with the purchase of every folding pond kit.

This article can be viewed in its entirity (with pictures) at <a href =""http://www.gardensupermart.com/tips/granite.asp"">http://www.gar densupermart.com/tips/granite.asp</a>. Further information about the granite flexible pond kits can be obtained at <a href=""http://www.gardensupermart.com/buypond/pics/granite_preform ed.html"">http://www.gardensupermart.com/buypond/pics/granite_pref ormed.html</a>.

About the author: Gerry Fung is a Sales and Marketing representative for Northbridge Products Inc.

Understanding Weeds - How to Kill them?

Author: Chris Coffman

Article: When I was a child, I loved to pick Dandelions. The pretty yellow flowers were small, colorful, and looked nice tucked behind my ear! However, if one had popped up in the front yard, my hair accessory would have been considered an atrocity!

I often feel sorry for weeds. They are plants too. In fact, if you flipped through a botany field guide, you may be surprised at the plants you find classified as weeds! But simply put, a weed is really defined as a plant out of place. Clover in one persons flowing lawn may be considered fashionable, whereas on another, not. Golf greens are often covered with bentgrass, but if it crept up in some yards, it would be considered a weed. While perhaps pretty on their own, weeds stick out like a sore thumb in yards because they may be of a different color, size or texture. This is distracting from the beauty of the otherwise sprawling green turf. Aside from aesthetic values, weeds can also drain nutrients from grass and other plants, and this competition of resources can thin what should be lush. And what's worse is that weeds are fighters. They can withstand conditions that your wanted greens cannot, so they are almost inevitable!

Treating weeds begins with correct identification. There are two classifications of weeds: Grassy and Broadleaf. These are further broken down into groups like perennial, biennial, and winter and summer annuals. These, as you may gave guessed, depict their growing patterns. Grassy weeds are, as they sound, like grass. However, they are unwanted grass, or grass that is growing in a different type of lawn. Some examples are annual bluegrass, barnyard grass, crabgrass, creeping bentgrass and foxtail. Broadleaf weeds may appear more to be what most people picture weed-like growth to be. Since they are broad, they are more easily distinguished. Some examples are yarrow, knotweed, chickweed, clover, ground ivy, thistle and my favorite, the dandelion.

Once you understand what is growing in your lawn and decide that it is unwanted, you can treat it and/or control it. Weeds can actually be controlled by your lawn care maintenance. If you maintain a dense and vigorously growing lawn, you are already combating the problem. Weeds can be a sign of underlying problems in the environment beneath. So by just killing them, you are simply putting on a band-aid, not solving the problem. For example, some weeds grow in situations of compacted soil, such as knotweed. You can also control the growth by taking better care of the grass, rather than focus on the weeds. You can raise or lower the mowing height, change the frequency of mowing and changing the amount of time between irrigating. Also, you can increase or decrease application of fertilizer and aerify the soil. This will maintain better grass, thus keeping the growth dense and vigorous, which as discussed above, does not attract weeds.

In addition to culture practices, sometimes the assistance of chemicals is needed to control weed growth. In that case, there are several types of herbicides that can be used. Preemergence herbicides will affect seeds that are germinating. Since they are best used two to three weeks before the seeds start to grow, these work best to combat annual weeds. Postmergence herbicides are used, as their prefix implies, after the weeds have sprouted. Since they must be absorbed through the leaves, this types of herbicide works best with a spray. These can be used at any time, but are most effective when the weed is still young and growing. Selective postmergence herbicides are usually used to control annual, biennial and perennial broadleaf weeds, as they will not damage grass. But, they can kill trees, shrubs and flowers. These have to be used in proper conditions as well, with no rain in the forecast for two days to follow, air 60-80 degrees and no winds. Finally, non-selective postmergence herbicides kill all types of weeds, and are best used to spot treat grassy weeds that are not affected by the selective herbicides.

So next time you see a Dandelion plant growing, don't make a wish and blow the seeds toward in the direction of a lawn fanatic- they may not get the perfectly manicured lawn they wished for!

About the author: Visit the Lawn Care Site for more free lawn care tips! http://www.lawncaresite.com

Preventing disease in your garden

Author: Tony Robinson

Article: Preventing disease, and controlling any diseases that do occur, is a vital part of building a successful garden. Whether you are a casual weekend gardener or a grower of championship blooms, keeping your garden healthy is important.

Of course the best way to enjoy a healthy garden year after year is to keep your plants as healthy and well cared for as possible. Healthier plants are better able to fight off infections and resist damage by common insects.

Unfortunately, however, there are a number of common plant ailments that are entirely beyond the control of even the best gardener. The common bacterial infection known as fireblight, for instance, can easily penetrate plants if it rains at the right time of year. In order to prevent this infection, the gardener would need to be able to control the weather, and this is one thing that is definitely beyond their control.

In addition, other common plant ailments are difficult to detect at first. For instance, the mosaic virus, which often affects bare root roses, rarely displays any symptoms that would notify the gardener of its presence until it is too late.

In order to protect your garden from disease and keep your plants vigorous and healthy, it is important to follow these important steps:

&#61656; Keep your plants as healthy and vigorous as possible through providing the recommended amounts of water, fertilizer and sunlight. The staff at your local nursery or garden center can provide you with information on the specific growth needs of each plant you buy.

&#61656; Buy disease-resistant varieties of plants whenever possible. Seed packets and seedlings at the nursery are labeled to show their resistance to various common plant ailments. &#61656; It is important to avoid damaging the roots as you transplant the seedlings. That is because damage to the plant's root system is a major cause of disease and other issues that can prevent plants from reaching their full potential.

&#61656; When working in the garden, be careful not to injure the plants as you work. It is important to exercise caution when weeding, fertilizing, tilling the soil, etc. Damaged stems and roots are a leading source of bacterial and fungal infections. &#61656; If at all possible, avoid working in the garden when the weather is very damp. Dampness can spread disease and fungus, and it is easy for the gardener to unknowingly spread infections among the plants.

&#61656; If possible, use either a drip irrigation system or a soaker hose when watering plants. These two watering methods help to avoid getting water on the leaves and flowers. Standing water on plants is a leading source of fungal and bacterial infections. Furthermore, standing water makes it easy for infections to spread from one plant to another.

&#61656; Any disease plants should be removed from the garden immediately. It is important to remove any diseased plants from the garden and replace them with hardier varieties. Doing so is the best way to prevent an infection from spreading.

&#61656; Any diseased plants should be disposed of immediately with the regular household trash. It is important not to mulch the infected plants, or add them to a compost bin. While many disease causing organisms are destroyed by the heat of decomposition in the compost bin, some are able to survive. It is always best to not take the chance that composted materials could reinfect the garden bed.

&#61656; Keep your garden clean. A clean garden is less susceptible to infection. It is always a good idea to perform a thorough cleaning after every growing season. This includes removing weeds and dead plant parts, since some plant pathogens are able to survive the cold of winter.

About the author: Tony Robinson is an international author and webmaster. In his busy life he finds time to ""Smell the Roses"". For geat tips, techniques and articles visit http://www.rose-bloom.com

Planning a Water Garden...

Author: Gordon Goh

Article: A water garden is the area of your landscape that will provide you with relaxing sounds of the water, while adding to the overall details of your landscape. The water garden is a project that you must 'plan' for continued success. If you are lucky enough to have the room in your lawn for a water garden, you are already one step ahead of many gardeners! Let's talk a little about how to plan for your water garden. A few important factors about placement of a water garden that often are forgotten are:

Do you have children in the neighborhood? If you have or live near children, you will want to keep your water garden in an area that will be close to your home. You will want to be able to see what is 'going on' by the water. Children are curious and they love water! Being able to see your water garden will save you worry later after the creation of your water garden even if the children are in the yard.

Do you have a natural spring in your lawn area? When planning a waterfall in the water garden, the use of a natural spring or water source is going to make the continued success of your water garden much easier. A water garden is possible with a waterfall even if you do not have a natural spring or water source, but it is a little more 'work' to create that special effect. You can find more information about this in another article on this site.

The lay of your land is important. While we will discuss this in other articles as well, planning your water garden around the lay of your land is important. If you are lucky enough to have a flat lawn, you can plan your water garden in various areas. The landscape that includes hills and slopes are a little tricky but using the slope in your lawn, you can create the water garden that takes care of that little 'wet patch' at the bottom of the yard!

Most water gardens are an addition or extension of the natural landscape. To encourage and invite your guests to the water garden for picnics, for chats, and for just sitting in pleasure: Plan the water garden so it's visible from the walkway to your home. The water garden that your visitors and guests see while entering your home adds value to your home and to your conversation!

In planning your water garden, use a sheet of paper to write down what you want to gain from your water garden. Start your list by using personal reasons, value reasoning, enhancing, or changing the overall look of your landscape. Alternately, you may simply want a place for solitude. These are the desires you'll write on your list. From this list, you can better plan 'where' your water garden will suit you and your ideas.

Gordon Goh is author of the free, informative website Simply Flower Garden offering quality useful tips for flower garden lovers.

About the author: Gordon Goh is author of the free, informative website content of <a href=""http://www.simplyflowergarden.info"" target=""_blank"">Flower | Garden Tips </a> offering quality useful tips for <a href=""http://motiveway.goldeye.info/Business-Motivational-Poster. htm "" target=""_blank"">flower gardening</a>

Grow Carnivorous Plants with Conviction

Author: Jacob Farin of <a href=""http://www.cobraplant.com"">Sarracenia Northwest</a>

Article: In high school, my music teacher taught us that if you are going to make a mistake, do it with conviction.

What he meant by that was that if our mistakes sounded sheepish and tentative, we were most likely playing sheepishly and tentatively, which ruined the overall effect of the performance.

But, if our mistakes were loud and obvious, then most likely we were playing with conviction, which enhanced the entire performance. Oddly enough, audience members were much more forgiving when a mistake was done with conviction.

The same is true with growing carnivorous plants. Your confidence in providing the right growing environment will show in your plants. If you grow them sheepishly and tentatively, they will grow sheepishly and tentatively. If you grow them with conviction, they will grow with conviction.

Even if you accidentally provide the wrong growing environment and the plant dies, it is not the end of the world. The Carnivorous Plant Police will not come out to arrest you. You will not face a federal court and have to spend 5 months in Club Cupcake.

Even with our horticultural skills, do plants die on us? Yes. But, we learn from our mistakes and move on. No one looks down on us because of our mistakes. Why? Because our beautiful carnivorous plants far outnumber those that didn't make it.

Many varieties of carnivorous plants are very winter hardy. We have <b><a href=""http://www.cobraplant.com/venus-flytrap.html"">Venus Flytraps</b></a> that have been growing exclusively outdoors for nearly 10 years! We provide them with no special care other than full sun and a tray of standing water. They grow well for us because we grow them with conviction.

So, grow carnivorous plants with conviction. Over time, you too will have healthy and beautiful plants you can be proud of.

If you need a pep talk for growing carnivorous plants, visit <a href=""http://www.cobraplant.com/pep-talk.html"">www.cobraplant.com /pep-talk.html</a>. It's a personalized and fun way to boost your confidence level when growing carnivorous plants!

About the author: Jacob Farin is a recognized expert on the cultivation of carnivorous plants at AllExperts.com. He is also co-owner of <b><a href=""http://www.cobraplant.com"">Sarracenia Northwest</b></a>, a nursery specializing in carnivorous plants. To learn more about growing carnivorous plants, visit <b><a href=""http://www.cobraplant.com"">http://www.cobraplant.com</a >.

How To Grow Luscious Tomatoes

Author: Marilyn Pokorney

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The tomato is the most commonly grown vegetable in the States. Here are some tips on how to grow your own bountiful crop of tomatoes.

Tomatoes should be grown in full sunlight.

Tomato plants require abundant moisture.

Tomatoes grow well in many types of soil but prefer fertile, well-drained soil with pH of about 6.5.

Garden soil may be improved by adding rotted manure, leaf mold, peat moss, or other organic materials.

The ideal tomato plant should be six to eight inches tall, dark green, with a stocky stem and well-developed root system.

For each family member three to five plants should be grown for fresh eating. If production for canning is desired, then five to 10 plants person needs to be grown.

Plant tomatoes when the weather has warmed and the soil temperature is above 60°F and air temperature is never lower than 45 degrees at night.

Plant seedlings a little deeper than they were in the pots.

Set out tomato plants in the evening or on a cloudy day.

Mulching helps stop weed growth and water loss from the soil. Place a two to three inch layer of organic material such as compost, leaves, straw, grass clippings, hay, newspapers, or black or red plastic sheeting around the growing plants.

Tomatoes can be grown on the ground or supported by stakes or cages. If using stakes put the stake in when planting As the plant grows taller, tie it loosely to the stake every 12 inches with soft fabric or twine.

Tomatoes require at least one inch of water per week during May and June and at least two inches per week during July, August, and September. Water once or twice a week and to a depth of 12 to 18 inches.

Space dwarf plants 12 inches apart; staked tomatoes should be 12 to 18 inches apart. Allow 2 to 4 feet between non- staked plants.

Rows should be spaced 3 to 5 feet apart for staked plants and 4 to 6 feet apart for non-staked plants.

A 10-20-10 fertilizer should be applied at planting time. Sidedress for the first time when the first fruits are one- third grown. Use about one to two tablespoons per plant. Mix the fertilizer into the soil then water, being careful not to get the fertilizer on the foliage. A second application should be made two weeks after the first ripe fruit and a third application one month later. Water the plants thoroughly after fertilizing. All fertilizers should be worked into the top six inches of soil.

For more information on fertilizers:

http://www.apluswriting.net/garden/tomatotips.htm

About the author: Author: Marilyn Pokorney Freelance writer of science, nature, animals and the environment. Also loves crafts, gardening, and reading. Website: http://www.apluswriting.net

Care of Moth Orchids

Author: Robert Roy, orchids-plus-more.com

Article: Do you have a knack for being with moths? Most people would say, ""no way"". Yet, the moth orchids that I am talking about are the ones that sway nicely in the breeze and some of the newer hybrids have a nice fragrance. These moths are easy to care for, especially a beginner. These moths are found very frequently in gardens. These are the phalaenopsis orchids. Phalaenopsis orchids are the one of the easiest orchids to care for in a home. Their blooms can last up to 3months and there are some of the most colorful hybrids. Like other orchids they require light, water, temperature, fertilizer and humidity. Seems like a lot but it really isn't The best light is indirect light. It can be bright but not direct sunlight. If you have a west facing window sill this will do just fine. Direct sun can damage the leaves of the moth orchid. Humidity is needed for the moth orchids. They actually grow in the wild in humid rain forests. In the warm months it would be nice to mist them every day or two. They also enjoy a bright bathroom. Let's look at the temperatures that phals like. They are an intermediate temperature orchid. This means they like temperatures from 55 to 75 or 80 degrees. As a must, the must be a temperature gradient of 10 to 15 degrees for at least 14 days in the fall to stimulate their flower spike. Moth orchids have no pseudopods to store water and for this reason they should not completely dry out. It is fine line to let them nearly dry out and at this point water them. You should be able to tell by seeing how light the plant is before you water it. Another way is stick your finger tip down about an inch into the plant and it should feel almost dry. It is at this point you should water. Let the water run through the plant (in the top and out the bottom) for about 20 - 30 seconds. It is important that any orchid plant does not sit in water because it will get root rot. Fertilize the plant twice a month with a week fertilizer solution. It is recommended to cut amount of fertilizer recommended by one half. Fertilize about every other week with a balanced fertilizer except durng the summer months of growth when you can use a high nitrogen fertilizer.

This article may be duplicated as long as credit is given to this author and the orchids-plus-more.com

About the author: This site http://www.orchids-plus-more.com is devoted to these wonderful orchid plants. Did you know they are the second in popularity only to the poinsettia plants? You will find a good deal of information on how easy orchid care really is. They are wonderful to have around your home or for that special gift. Orchid flowers are beautiful and can last for years. Your plant will be appreciated for years and years.

Fertilizing Your Lawn

Author: Chris Coffman

Article: Your lawn takes nutrients out of the soil that it is bedded in and uses these nutrients to aid its growth. If your soil lacks these nutrients your lawn will ultimately suffer. So while fertilizing makes your lawn greener it also provides a top of any nutrients that your soil is lacking helping grass to grow. When the nutrients are available, the lawn develops healthier roots which invariably grow deeper allowing the lawn to draw upon water and nutrients in the soil. Furthermore, deep roots reduce thatch and browning. Finally, fertilizer contains nutrients that grass needs to resist disease and drought.

Fertilizers also offer the additional benefit of including chemicals to inhibit or kill weeds. The three primary nutrients in a fertilizer are Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium. Each element has its own affect upon grass. Nitrogen stimulates grass growth and greening. Phosphorous stimulates the development of roots and seedlings. Potassium promotes disease and drought resistance.

As the weather changes, so too does your lawn have changing needs. In the heat of the summer, your lawn needs water and little else. In order to survive the cold weather, your lawn needs to have healthy roots and so a fertilizer to promote root growth should be applied before the cold weather sets in. At other times of year your lawn needs nutrients to enable growth and greening. Weeds also have their own growing seasons so you should fertilize at the beginning of the various weed growth seasons.

Where you live, the type of grass you have, the condition of your soil and the weather all affect your choice of fertilizer and when it should be applied. You also have a choice of organic fertilizer, liquid fertilizer, which is sprayed on, or time released granules which are distributed with a spreader. All of these factors result in the many choices of fertilizer. And of course you can always purchase your fertilizer via a wholesaler online, meaning that the more you buy the cheaper the deal.

About the author: Visit The Lawn Care Site today for more great free lawn care tips! http://www.lawncaresite.com

How To Create Your Own Humming Bird Nectar...

Author: Kathy Burns-Millyard

Article:

Hummingbirds feed off of plants and a few insects, but because of the speed which their wings flutter when they're in flight, they tend to burn a heck of a lot of energy. They need to eat about every 15 minutes!

You can help by providing Humming Bird Food, known as Hummingbird Nectar, in your yard or garden. There's no reason to buy it from the store either, because it's just simple sugar and water.

And it's easy too: 4 parts water to 1 part sugar. That's it.

So, if you wanted to make 4 cups of Hummingbird Nectar, you'd first boil 4 cups of water for about 5 minutes. Turn the water off then stir in the sugar. Keep stirring until it's completely dissolved.

Do not add any coloring, flavoring, powdered drink mixes, honey or otherwise: All of these can be dangerous to the Humming birds.

Let the mixture cool fully before putting it out for your Humming birds too, you wouldn't want to accidently hurt them with hot Nectar.

Put any remaining nectar in the fridge, it can keep for about two weeks.

&copy; 2005, Kathy Burns-Millyard. This article is brought to you by The Bird House Shop Section of The Garden Source Network, where you can buy <A HREF=""http://birdhouses.garden-source.com/Bird-Feeders/"">Humming Bird Feeders</A>, <A HREF=""http://birdhouses.garden-source.com/Bird-Houses/"">Bird Houses</A>, <A HREF=""http://birdhouses.garden-source.com/Bird-Baths/"">Bird Baths</A> and Related Wild Bird Accessories.

About the author: This article may be freely published on any website, as long as the author, copyright, website address and link, and this notice are left intact.

Selecting the Proper Pump for your Backyard Water Garden Feature

Author: Gerry Fung

Article: Whether you have a preformed or a liner pond, a pond pump is a paramount component of any water feature. Stagnant bodies of water attract mosquito infestations, which are a nuisance, and also undesirable, due to the recent outbreaks of the West Nile virus. Therefore, it is paramount that you utilize a pond pump that circulates your body of water.

Pumps are available in both submersible and external (out-of-pond) models. For the smaller pond (up to 1000 gallons of water), a submersible pump is the more economical and practical option. Submersible pumps can be placed directly in the pond and require relatively little installation. They are free of distracting noise, and for smaller ponds, can easily be utilized to drain your pond (if you hook up a hose to the output flow).

In the old days, the main disadvantage of submersible pumps was that the pump seal could rupture and release oil coolant into the water. However, this is not the case nowadays, because newer pumps are magnetic-driven, and no longer require coolant. "Mag-driven" pumps are slightly more expensive, but they have the added advantage of consuming less electricity.

Pumps are sized by gallons per hour (GPH) output at one foot of lift or height. Manufacturers usually offer charts that break down the power of each size pump according to incremental heights of one foot. It is recommended that you circulate your body of water at least once every 2 hours. Therefore you will need to size your pump to ensure that it has half the GPH rating as the volume of your pond in gallons. For example, if you have a 1000 gallon water feature, you will require at least a 500 GPH pump.

Calculating the proper pump for waterfalls is a bit trickier, because you must estimate your waterfall's height. To do so, you must measure the vertical height from the top of your pump to the top of your waterfall. In addition, you must add another foot of height or lift for every 10 feet of hosing you will be using (this will allow for loss of volume from resistance within the hose). To calculate the required pump GPH, a general rule of thumb is that each inch of width of the channel will require an extra 100 GPH. For example, if your stream or waterfall spillway will be 10 inches wide, you will need a pump that produces an excess flow of 1000 GPH at your waterfall's height.

If you plan on having fish, your water circulation demands will be drastically increased. Fish rely on the oxygen in the water to survive, hence a proper pump for a fish pond must ensure that extra oxygen is both introduced into the pond, and distributed throughout the pond. The general rule of thumb is that you must double your pump GPH if you plan on raising fish. An example of a pump that would be appropriate for fish is GardenSuperMart's UltraFlo line of pumps. These pumps have oxygen intake valves and an unique air/water air mix system which effectively increases the oxygen concentration in your pond.

The advantage of GardenSuperMart's low-maintenance, magnetic-driven UltraFlo pump kits is that they contain a sealed unit with a large enclosure that prevents debris from clogging the water intake. The UltraFlo line of pumps starts at 200 GPH, and increase up to 660 GPH. All UltraFlo pump kits come complete with a telescopic riser and diverter and 3 fountain heads.

If you require a more powerful pump, GardenSuperMart also has a SuperFlo line of pump kits that can provide up to 1585 GPH. All SuperFlo kits come complete with a telescopic riser and diverter, 4 fountain heads, and a sponge pre-filter. An optional SuperFlo Mechancial and Biological filter can also be added to the pump to provide additional water filtration for your fish.

Both the SuperFlo and the UltraFlo pumps can be purchased online at GardenSuperMart's store, <a href = ""http://www.gardensupermart.com/buypond"">www.buypond.com. In late May 2005, GardenSuperMart will also introduce a new line of MaxFlo waterfall pumps that can provide up to 2780 GPH of pumping power. Please stay tuned for further news and details.

About the author: Gerry Fung is the Vice President of <a href = ""http://www.gardensupermart.com"">GardenSuperMart</a>. More information about their pond pump lines can be obtained at <a href = ""http://www.gardensupermart.com/buypond/c230094.2.html"">http://ww w.gardensupermart.com/buypond/c230094.2.html</a>

How to grow Chocolate Cosmos

Author: Linda Paquette

Article: Love Chocolate? Here's How to Grow Chocolate Cosmos

Chocolate cosmos (Cosmos atrosanguinea) is both nose and eye candy for your garden. When it's in full bloom, mature blossoms on long, slender stems look like candy kisses on a stick and fill the late afternoon with the sweet scent of vanilla tinged chocolate. New blossoms hug the foliage of the plant, nearly concealing it with their numbers! Add to that the sweet chocolate fragrance and you end up with something very special.

Although chocolate cosmos is endangered in the wild, transplants are easily found at most nurseries and garden centers in the spring. However, gardeners who are inexperienced in how to grow chocolate cosmos may overlook what seem to be small, messy tangles of miniature dahlia leaves, unaware that once established, prolific blossoms nearly conceal the foliage. Once in bloom, chocolate cosmos blossoms continuously throughout the summer into the first frosts of autumn.

If you're planning a gothic garden, chocolate cosmos is the plant for you. Sometimes referred to as black cosmos, dark maroon blossoms are so deep in color that they appear brown/black in late afternoon and evening.

A native of Mexico, this half-hardy perennial is a sun loving plant that is moderately drought tolerant.

You'll most easily grow chocolate cosmos from transplants purchased at your local garden center or nursery. Large clumps of established plants can also be divided to provide as many as three or four transplants.

Plant chocolate cosmos in organically rich, well-drained soil in a location that gets full sun. Keep the transplants moist until they established roots and you see the beginnings of some new growth.

In the fall, when foliage dies back, cut plants back to about two inches from the root and over-winter them in a frost-free area. Chocolate cosmos is hardy in zones 7-10. In these zones, you may opt to cover the plants with a cloche to protect them from danger of frost.

About the author: Linda is the leading author of: <a href=""http://www.gardening-guides.com "">Gardening Guides </a> Hundreds of Free Articles on Flower Gardening, Fruit Vegetable and Container Gardening plus tips on Garden Design

Flower Meanings & History of Flowers

Author: Josh Grossman

Article: Flower Meanings & History The charming and delicate beauty of flowers has fascinated people of all nations and backgrounds for centuries. Flowers have been bred and cultivated for their decorative beauty as well as their ability to heal diseases. Flowers are the subject of poems and myths, and religious symbols are associated with flowers as well. Many girls are named after flowers. The main reason for the popularity of flowers though is their ability to bring good cheer.

For all fellow lovers and admirers of flowers here is some background information about flowers. This will help give your flower gift giving and buying a greater context.

Asters There are over 600 species of asters, the most popular being the Monte Casino. Ancient societies believed that the odor of its leaves, when burnt, drove away serpents. While this might not be as applicable today, perhaps its connotation is still relevant: Giving asters means, ""I am not sure whether you have been faithful to me"". Be careful who you send asters to! Meanings: charming, patience

Bells of Ireland Although the name suggests these flowers come from Ireland, they originated in western Asia. Bells of Ireland have a spicy/peppery scent and are part of the mint family. They stand for good luck. Meanings: good luck, whimsy

Carnations Turn of the century dandies would not leave the house without a white or red carnation in the buttonhole of their suit. With the end of this tradition and the fact that carnations are so easily cultivated and grown, the flower has lost some of its popularity. However, carnations are not only beautiful and long lasting flowers, they also send a message: When you receive a red carnation bouquet, it means, ""My heart aches for you"" and when you receive white carnations the sender is saying: ""I am still available."" Meanings: fascination, devoted Love

Chrysanthemum Imagine, chrysanthemums have been cultivated in Chinese gardens for almost 3000 years! The name chrysanthemum comes from the Greek chrysos (gold) and anthos (flower). Today some of the meanings associated with this flower are: innocence, cheerfulness and loyal love. Meanings: cheerfulness, innocence

Dahlias The dahlia is the national flower of Mexico and this is also its birthplace. An old Aztec document states that the Aztecs used dahlias as a treatment for epilepsy. Only in the 19th century did the flower come to Europe where it was bred and cultivated into today's varieties. Meanings: dignity, elegance

Iris Did you know that there are so many different varieties of iris that they can be grown wild year round, in water and on land? Iris was most significant in history as the emblem of France -- Fleur-de-Lis -- established in the 11th century by the king of France. Today, it is the state flower of Tennessee and its meanings are faith, hope and wisdom. Meanings: faith, hope, wisdom

Lilies Lilies have been associated with many ancient myths. They are mentioned in the Old Testament, and in the New Testament, and symbolize chastity and virtue. Even today, lilies are associated with purity and faith.

Meanings: purity, faith Peruvian lilies or alstroemeria are named after the Swedish botanist Baron Klas von Alstroemer. He brought the flower seeds back from a trip to South America in the 18th century. Meanings: friendship, devotion

Calla lilies were first imported from South Africa to America in the mid-nineteenth century. The waxy white blooms and spearheaded leaves of the calla lily stand for radiant beauty and sophistication. Meanings: sophistication, beauty

Lisianthus Lisianthus may sound like a Latin name, but it is one of several common names associated with this plant. It is also referred to as Prairie Gentian, Prairie Rose or Texas Bluebell. The flowers existing today are derived from an American wildflower that is native to prairies ranging from Colorado to Nebraska and down to Texas. Meanings: outgoing, thoughts

Orchids During the 19th Century, orchids were widely collected. With nearly 25,000 varieties, some orchids are among the most exquisite and expensive flowers available. In antiquity, orchids were correlated with love and fertility. It was common knowledge that they would protect against diseases. Given as a gift they stand for preciousness and seduction. Meanings: seduction, preciousness

Snapdragons Snapdragons are an old decorative flower, widely used by the Romans. From its origin in southern Spain the cultivated form was spread throughout the whole Roman Empire. Nowadays remnants of this original population which all belong to the species Antirrhinum majus are found among Roman remains like temples in southern France, Malta, and Italy. The flower, also called ""gracious lady"" stands for deception.

Meanings: desire, strength Roses With their far-reaching popularity, roses are the queens of flowers. After buttercup, the roses are the second oldest variety of flowers on the planet. Biologists can trace roses back some 200 million years! Although there is a huge number of meanings and symbols associated with roses, the most common of course is love, which originated in Greek mythology. When Aphrodite cried about the death of her lover Adonis, she had red ""Adonis Roses"" grown with his blood, - thus red roses are the symbol of never-ending love. Important to mention are the roses' thorns, of which we all probably have some painful memory. Symbolically, love can be painful and full of suffering when not treated carefully. Red roses: I love you, unconscious beauty White roses: spiritual love, purity Yellow roses: joy, gladness Orange roses: fascinated, enthusiastic Pink roses: grace, gentility

Tulips Originally from Persia, tulips were introduced to Western Europe and the Netherlands in the 17th century. When growers started to hybridize the flower, they found ways of making it even more decorative. Hybrids of the flower were a scarcity at the time and a symbol of high status. Soon tulips became very popular as a trading product and bulbs were traded at the highest prices. The months of late 1636 to early 1637 would make history in the Netherlands as ""Tulipmania"". A bed of tulips was worth up to $5,000, the value of a small house in Amsterdam. The bulbs became currency, and their value was quoted at the stock market. Meanings: perfect lover, fame

Sunflowers Sunflowers turn their heads toward the sun and this how they got their common name. They originated in Central and South America. Sunflowers are not only pretty to look at but sunflower seeds are power-packed with healthy fats, protein, fiber, minerals, and vitamin E - all important to the nutritional quality of your diet. Wait! That doesn't mean you're supposed to eat the seeds out of your sunflower bouquet. Meanings: adoration, sunshine

About the author: Josh Grossman is cofounder of online florist, Beyond Blossoms (http://www.beyondblossoms.com). Beyond Blossoms ships farm fresh flower bouquets nationwide.

Spring into Lawn Mowing

Author: Lillian & Dave Brummet

Article:

Ahh. Spring arrives with the beautiful twittering of birds preparing their nests for the unborn. What - can't hear them? The low rumble of lawn mowers not only drowns out natures' symphony, but also disturbs skittish wildlife and sleepy neighbors.

According to the Environmental Protection Agency, some older gas-powered lawn mowers produce in one hour as much air pollution as a new car does in 11 hours. Lawn mowers newer than 1996 have to comply to new exhaust emission standards, which is a fantastic place to begin. However, these standards are not yet satisfying for the health of the world.

Gasoline-powered mowers produce a cut that results in greater water loss and increased disease problems in lawns. Although many are now made with 4-stroke engines (much less polluting than 2-stroke engines), they still produce emissions.

There is a returned interest in push mowers due to environmental awareness of gas engine pollution and electricity use. Typically, crowded cities are resulting in smaller lawns, reducing the need for large, heavy mowers. Push mowers are light and easy to operate and, being much smaller, take up less storage room and do not pollute. These mowers are actually quite cheap and many stores are rising to meet the increased consumer interest. We have read that 7-blade models are considered better than 5-blade models.

There are other choices on the market than electric, push and gas lawn mowers. There are solar-powered models, too. We read of one featured in Omni magazine that operated on its own, traveling the entire lawn area during the day and resting at night. It looked to be about the size of a vacuum power-head. Apparently, a special fence is used to keep it within the lawn boundary and there is a built in alarm to prevent theft.

Old defunct lawn mowers that are not operating still have some use. Remove the blade, motor, cords, wires and gas tank, leaving the four-wheeled caddy and its push handle. Secure a box to this and create a wheeled cart that is perfect for harvesting or toting material around the property.

The metal frame of most lawn mowers is recyclable and its' wheels are often prized by workshop-creation crafters. The motor and remaining parts might also be appreciated at a repair shop where they could be reused.

There are alternatives to traditional grass, from wildflower mixes to low-growing ground covers, which rarely need mowing. Landscaping a portion or the entire area with drought tolerant, wildlife supporting plants is a very environmentally active engagement that either eliminates or reduces mowing needs. And really, who couldn't use a little more time on their hands?

So get your exercise, reduce air and noise pollution; save yourself some money and have a healthier lawn. Or let the sun run the mower for you. Either way, the world will breathe a little easier and maybe you will hear a songbird or two.

About the author: -- Written by Dave and Lillian Brummet based on the concept of their book, Trash Talk. The book offers useful solutions for the individual to reduce waste and better manage resources. A guide for anyone concerned about their impact on the environment. (http://www.sunshinecable.com/~drumit)

The Sundial - Garden Ornament or Exotic Timepiece?

Author: Graham McClung

Article: Most of us regard a sundial as an attractive ornament for a park or garden. Their effectiveness as time keepers is highly variable

That's unfortunate, because it is not at all difficult to ensure that your garden sundial will be an accurate timepiece, provided, of course that the sun is shining.

But that will be covered in another article. For now, let's see what a sundial is, and what it is capable of.

<B>Sundial History</B>

We forget in this modern age that accurate, affordable watches and clocks have been around for much less than 200 years.

Before then, sundials were one of the few ways to tell the time with reasonable accuracy.

Shadow clocks dated at 1500BC are known from Egypt, but the first dials appear to have been Babylonian. The Greeks adapted the idea, the Romans developed it further, and by about 100BC had perfected the horizontal sundial (and placed it in their gardens).

Even in ancient days some people had schedules to keep, and both agriculture and religion required knowledge of the seasons and the movement of the sun to determine planting and the timing of ceremonies.

The sundial was an important means of providing that information, and considerable advances in mathematics, geometry and astronomy were made while it was perfected. The knowledge gained forms part of the foundations of modern science.

<B>Types of Sundial</B>

There are four reasonably common types of sundial.

They all have two things in common. Each consists of a raised structure, called the <B>gnomon</B> (silent ""g"") which casts a shadow onto a plate called the <B>dial</B>. The dial is divided into hourly or shorter time divisions and may also show other information.The part of the gnomon whose shadow indicates the time on the dial is called the <B>style</B>.

The most abundant form is the <B>horizontal sundial</B>, happily sitting on its pedestal or column and adding beauty and interest to the home garden.

Related is the <B>equatorial sundial</B>, with its dial oriented at the same angle as the latitude. It works slightly differently, and is easier to use when properly calibrated.

Thirdly, there is the <B>vertical sundial</B>, ideally located on a wall facing due south in the northern hemisphere, and north in the southern hemisphere. The principle is much the same, but the sundial only occupies a semicircular area. Vertical sundials displayed the time to the public, and were used to correct unreliable public clocks.

And the most elegant of all, the <B>portable sundial</B>. George Washington had one - at that time pocket watches were most unreliable. Modern examples can be a work of art. They combine a compass with an adjustable dial. The dial is tilted to correspond to local latitude, and the compass defines north. Pretty neat!

<B>Sundial Accuracy</B>

A properly designed and installed sundial can be a very accurate means of telling the time, down to intervals of less than a minute.

I won't go into the mathematics, but on a sundial 16 inches (40cm) in diameter, the shadow of the gnomon will move about 1/30th of an inch, or just under 1mm, in a minute. This may be small, it's enough for our eyes to see.

<B>Two Major Problems</B>

Apart from the frequent absence of sunlight (Problem 1), all sundials show time by cakibrating outwards from the position of the sun at noon, and if you live east or west of me, your noon is different to mine.

Although the earth moves around the sun, we see it the other way. The sun appears to move from east to west across the sky, and local noon is when it's vertically overhead. But if you live 100 miles west of me, my noon is still your late morning, and your noon is my early afternoon. This would be inconvenient if we used our sundials to arrange a lunch date, but a real problem if I had a plane to catch in another city.

<B>Solar Time and Official Time</B>

People managed to live with this problem until communications and transport became faster. Imagine calculating train timetables when Boston, New York and Buffalo all worked on different local times.

The answer was the development of local <B>time zones</B>. US Railways did this in 1883, but in 1914 the world's governments agreed to divide the globe into 24 zones, each 15 degrees of longitude in width, and each one hour different in time to its neighbours. Boundaries were altered slightly to account for state and national borders.

There are four time zones in the contiguous 48 states of the USA: Eastern, centred on 75 degrees W longitude; Central, on 90 degrees; Mountain, on 105 degrees; and Pacific, on 120 degrees. Noon was identified astronomically for each of these meridians (now it's done by atomic clocks), and accepted everywhere else in the zone.

Noon on sundials in places very close to these longitudes will correspond to official noon. For every degree east or west of the central meridian, for 7.5 degrees either side, you will need to add or subtract four minutes respectively to correct your sundial.

A few other adjustments are necessary to compensate for irregularities in the earth's path around the sun - not too difficult to make but the theory is beyond this article.

They add to the inconvenience, and that's why sundials have been superceded by more convenient and reliable forms of time keeping. But problems with time zones and orbital paths can be corrected, and there's no reason why you can't find the correct time from your sundial.

No reason, that is, provided it has been properly installed in your garden. And that's the subject of another article.

About the author: Copyright 2005, Graham McClung. A retired geologist, Graham McClung has had a lifelong interest in the outdoors. And where there's outdoors there's weather. He is the editor of Home-Weather-Stations-Guide.com, where you can find reviews and advice to help you choose and use your own home weather station. You can contact him by email at information@home-weather-stations-guide.com

Lawn Aeration -- The Cure for Soggy Grass Carpets

Author: Linda Paquette

Article: Just like people do, plants need breathing room. While most plants can get the air they need from the top, having adequate circulation in the soil is critical for growing healthy turf. If you're noticing that last year's lawn is this year's sponge, it's time to rent or purchase a lawn aerator.

Aeration keeps soil clumps from becoming rock-solid bits of earth, helps water to drain through the soil, and removes excess thatch build-up. In addition to benefiting your turf, it also helps the micro-colonies of beneficial organisms that live in your soil to stay healthy.

Although aeration, especially core aeration, is best when done in the springtime, you can aerate your lawn any time after the frost is out of the ground.

Before you invest in aeration, you may want to check your lawn for thatch buildup. If you can easily push your finger through your lawn to feel the soil, then aeration isn't a necessity. Still, it won't hurt. Making a habit of yearly aeration keeps your lawn healthy and keeps you ahead of clumping, thatch build-up and poor drainage problems.

Small lawns with little thatch can be easily aerated by walking over them wearing a pair of spiked shoes. The least expensive type of aerator is a spiked pole, which you push into the ground. However, the most effective type of lawn aerator is a core aerator. If you have large areas of turf, this is the type of aerator that will do the best job. In addition, core aerators can be purchased to attach to most riding mowers and lawn tractors.

The disadvantage of core aeration is that it does leave plugs of earth scattered about your lawn. However, the plugs can be removed, broken up, or will quickly decompose under heavy spring rainfalls.

About the author: Linda is a leading author of <a href=""http://www.lanwnmower-guides.com"">Lawnmower Guides</a> All about Lawnmowers and Lanwcare

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Linda is a leading author of <a href=""http://www.lawnmower-guide.com""> Lawnmower Guides</a> All about Lawnmowers and Lawncare</p>

The Perfect Garden Sundial

Author: Graham McClung

Article: Is it possible for a garden sundial to tell perfect time?

The chances are very good if you can make one yourself, or get one custom made for your location. But both these alternatives will take either time or money.

The reason for this is that apart from adjustments for time zones and daylight saving , covered in another article, there are three things that must be done.

<B>Compensating for the Earth's Path Around the Sun</B>

If the earth followed a perfect circle as it revolved around the sun, life with sundials would be easy. But its path is elliptical or oval, and this causes errors of up to 16 minutes in sundial time at some times of the year. The corrections are straightforward, and can be made using a table, or from a figure 8 line called the <B>Analemma</B>, often seen on old globes and sundials.

<B>Correcting for Latitude</B>

Let's consider the components of a sundial for a moment. It consists of a dial on which the time divisions, and sometimes other information is marked, and a triangular piece which sits vertically on the dial. It is called the <B>gnomon</B>, pronounced nomon, and the part which casts the shadow onto the dial is called the style.

For more information on how sundials work, including how to design your own, go to Google and type ""how + sundial"", without the quotes but with the +, in the search box.

To be accurate, the angle between the triangular part of the gnomon and the horizontal must be the same as the latitude of the place it is to be placed in (You can find the latitude - and longitude - of your home from any topographic map or good atlas).The arrangement and distance between the hour markings on the dial must also be correct for the latitude.

Hmmmm! This means that unless you are very lucky, that elegant sundial in your local garden supply shop will probably not show the time particularly well. It may be calibrated for an average latitude (commonly 45 degrees), which is good if your latitude is not too different. Or it may be purely ornamental and will really only be useful around noon.

Now of course this doesn't matter at all if you are looking for something pleasing to the eye, and don't mind answering the inevitable question ""Does it tell the time?"" But if you'd like your sundial to be more useful, make sure you find out which latitude it is calibrated to.

Once you know this, all you need to do to compensate is to work out the difference, and tilt the dial towards or away from due south depending on whether you need to add to or subtract from the latitude the sundial was designed for. There may be slight differences to the ideal spacing of the hour marks, but the apparent time will be reasonably close.

<B>Finding North</B>

The final essential in sundial installation is to make sure the gnomon is oriented north-south. Sounds easy and, with a little patience, it is.

One way, suitable for the northern hemisphere, is to identify the pole star. This is very close to the projected position of the earth's axis, about which the sun and stars seem to revolve. You could mark the direction from your sundial's location to the pole star, but this method isn't quite accurate, and needs to be done in the dark. And the southern hemisphere doesn't have a pole star.

Method 2 uses a compass. Sounds pretty simple, doesn't it. But you guessed it - there are some complications.

Firstly, the needle on a compass points to magnetic north, not true north, which is what we want. The difference between the two is called the magnetic declination, and is usually shown on good topographic maps. And while a simple addition or subtraction of the difference between the two norths should give you the right direction, there may be some local magnetic effects which can't be compensated for.

The third method goes back to the ancients - and there were some pretty smart operators around in the old days.

You'll need a stick, some paper or board, a marker, a tape measure or long rule, a sunny day, and a bit of time on your hands. Set the stick up vertically at the location you have chosen for your sundial, so that the top of its shadow falls on the sheet of paper or board. If you stand with your back to the sun, behind the pole, set the paper up so that the morning shadow falls on its left hand side.

Now mark the end of the shadow with a permanent marker. Come back through the day and mark the new positions of the tip of the shadow - the more often the better. As the day goes on, you'll notice the marks form a curve.

Later in the afternoon - any time after three is OK - connect the marks you've made into the smoothest curve you can manage. Do this while the pole and paper are still in place. Then carefully measure the distance between the base of the pole and the curve. The shortest distance corresponds to true north. Mark it in some way, and align the gnomon in the same direction when you put your sundial in place.

You can find true north in other ways - again I suggest you try google as suggested above.

Once you have set up your sundial, check the time, compensate for differences with your official time zone, pat yourself on the back, and if the sundial tells you it's after midday, pour a glass of your favourite beverage and put your feet up. Your time is now your own.

About the author: Copyright 2005, Graham McClung. A retired geologist, Graham McClung has had a lifelong interest in the outdoors. And where there's outdoors there's weather. He is the editor of Home-Weather-Stations-Guide.com, where you can find reviews and advice to help you choose and use your own home weather station. You can contact him by email at information@home-weather-stations-guide.com