Tips on Growing Lettuce

Author: Marilyn Pokorney

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Words: 235 Copyright: 2005 Marilyn Pokorney

Please leave the resource box intact with an active link, and send a courtesy copy of the publication in which the article appears to: marilynp@nctc.net ------------------------------------------------------------ Lettuce is an easy to grow spring and autumn vegetable. It's two worst enemies are hot temperatures and slugs.

Here are some tips to grow lettuce all summer long, even when temperatures soar.

*Make sure soil contains a good supply of nitrogen for good leaf production.

*Make early plantings in full sun.

*Plant the seeds 1/8 inch deep in a wide row, 6 inches apart in all directions.

*Plant every two weeks for a continuous harvest all summer long.

*As the weather warms up, start planting in partial shade. Either on the side of the house that receives morning sun or in the shade of other taller plants such as corn broccoli etc.

*Keep weeds under control as lettuce has shallow roots and can't compete with deep rooted weeds.

*Keep soil moist but not wet. Water at the base of the plant and not the leaves wet leaves will encourage disease.

*Aphids, cabbage loopers, flea beetles, leafhoppers and leaf miners are some of the insects that attack lettuce, but slug are the most notorious for loving lettuce.

*Avoid pesticides as lettuce leaves are very tender and delicate, and can absorb many insecticides. An insecticidal soap or handpicking usually alleviates the majority of lettuce pests.

*One tip to avoid slugs is to avoid mulching lettuce.

For more tips on how to control slugs on lettuce and in the entire garden visit:

http://www.apluswriting.net/garden/slugs.htm

About the author: Author: Marilyn Pokorney Freelance writer of science, nature, animals and the environment. Also loves crafts, gardening, and reading. Website: http://www.apluswriting.net

Cleaning for Allergy and Asthma Sufferers

Author: Carole Pagan

Article: My daughter recently had a bout with asthma. The strange thing is, she hadn't had any problems for a couple of years. In looking at the possible triggers - She had a new batch of puppies at her dad's. While the 2 dogs didn't seem to bother her, the addional puppies seemed to put her over the edge.

To make matters worse, since we hadn't had problems for a couple of years, I had become lax in some of the cleaning that I would have done when she had problems every year.

Once I realized what her problem was, I immediately started cleaning for asthma. That means thoroughly vacuuming walls, behind furniture, matresses, pillows, upholstery, screens, and vents, and dusting every crevice- including things like behind the tv and stereo inside the cabinet, the backs of furniture.

I normally dust the ceiling fans and blinds, but if you kinda skip those, you need to pay more attention if you have any allergies or asthma in your home.

A quick carpet clean and changing air filters and furnace filters finishes up the cleaning job.

You also want to change your hand towels everyday, just in case it's a virus triggering the response.

If you have pets, keep them clean and brushed, and their living areas cleaned. Keep pets out of the bedrooms of affected people.

The things that typically trigger asthma is actually pretty long-

House dust mites found in carpeting, mattresses, bed linens, toys, upholstered furniture, dampness, poor ventilation, unvented cooking, humidifiers

Animal-derived allergens from dogs, cats, rodents, and birds.

Mold found in carpeting, walls, and windows, caused by leaks, poor ventialtion, water damage, or dampness.

Nitrogen oxides produced by space heaters or gas-fueled cooking stove, used with poor ventilation.

Wood Smoke from wood stoves or fireplaces, used with poor ventilation, or faulty equipment causing fumes to come back into the room.

Fumes from cleaners, aerosols- like hairsprays, perfumes and even air fresheners, pesticides, formaldehyde found in some older household products.

Viral respiratory infections - exposure to infected people

Endotoxins from bacteria growing in soil, humidifiers, and other moist places.

Cockroach allergen

Tobacco smoke

Excess weight.

If there is one thing you can do to minimize allergy or asthma suffering- it is to become a vacuuming fanatic. The more you get into that bag, the less you have floating around in the air. It's healthier, and you'll have less dusting to do in the long run.

About the author: Carole is the author of Secret Confessions of a Clean Freak. If you Love a really clean home, but Hate cleaning it, you'll want your own copy of the secrets. Click on the link to get it now-http://ThinAttitude.CommonSenseLiving.com

How To Make Gourd Birdhouses

Author: Gene

Article: Making Gourd Birdhouses takes a little patience, but can be well worth the time and effort. Watching birds nest in your own homegrown gourd birdhouse will bring you joy and satisfaction.

Harvesting: Harvest a hard-shell gourd when the vine has withered. Be careful to leave the stem attached. It's best to cut the stem with pruning shears so you don't bruise it. Hang it in a sunny spot or put it on newspaper in a warm dry place for 3 - 6 months.

If it is lying on a flat surface, be sure to turn frequently, A proper size for birdhouses has a diameter of about 8 to 13 inches. Wash thoroughly in water, rinse in a solution of 1 part bleach and 10 parts water, and dry with a towel.

Drying: As it dries, it will begin to mold. This is a natural part of the drying process. If dried indoors it will grow more mold and should be frequently wiped clean with the bleach solution.

Discard any that become soft or wrinkled. To check if it is dry, give it a good shake - if the seeds rattle, you can begin making your birdhouse.

Turning Your Gourd Into A Birdhouse: Soak the gourd for 15 minutes in hot soapy water, and then scrape with a dull knife to remove the outer skin and mold. Scrub in the water with fine steel wool. Rinse it well and allow to dry thoroughly.

To locate the birds entrance hole, hold it by its stem between your index finger and thumb and let it hang. Mark a center point along the outermost part of the curve so the hole faces straight out. Not toward the sky or the ground.

The entrance hole can be easily drilled with the proper-size hole saw or by using a keyhole saw.

Wear a facemask, as the dust is a caustic substance.

Drill 2 sets of holes about 2 inches from the neck for hanging and ventilation. Also drill 2 or 3 1/4 inch holes in the bottom for drainage. Drill the size hole necessary to encourage the birds you want to attract.

Remove the seeds and membrane of the gourd through the entrance hole with a long-handled metal spoon, screwdriver or a wire coat hanger.

Dip the whole thing in a wood preservative of 15 minutes, weighting it down with a brick. Then remove it and hang it up to dry for several days. Sand the gourd smooth and paint with and oil-based primer. Allow it to dry thoroughly. Paint the house with exterior enamel paint (do not use water based latex paint as it will peel) Apply 2 coats. Decorate anyway you like and hang it in the proper place to attract the birds you want.

There you are, Well on you way to making your own gourd birdhouses.

Vist <A HREF=""www.wild-bird-watching.com"">Wild Bird Watching</a> for information on the habits and sounds of your favorite backyard birds.

About the author: None

A Look at International Flower Delivery

Author: Eddie Tobey

Article: As our global community continues to expand we often find ourselves with friends and families who live in countries outside of the U.S. In the past this caused somewhat of a dilemma if a person wanted to send a gift of flowers internationally. It was not as simple as calling the local florist; it was almost impossible to find a florist who could wire transfer the order to another florist in a different country. This has changed, however, because of the availability of resources via the Internet.

Do a simple search in any major search engine for “International Flower Delivery” and you will yield hundreds of results. Many companies are now offering international flower delivery and it is usually just as simple as ordering domestically.

Many online flower companies have access to florists worldwide. It is usually simple to find an online company, select your product and specify that you need the order to be shipped internationally. The company will then relay your order to the affiliate florist in that area and your flowers will be delivered.

Some companies may charge a processing fee for international flower delivery orders and others will not. The same holds true if the recipient resides in a very small or rural area where flower delivery may take additional time. Some companies will also have a delay in delivery to verify the recipient’s address. With all flower delivery orders but especially true with international orders, it is very important to have the correct address including spellings for street and city names.

About the author: <a href=""http://www.i-flowerdelivery.com"">Flower Delivery Info</a> provides information on same day, next day, international, and online flower delivery in various regions Flower Delivery Info is the sister site of <a href=""http://www.e-flowerbulbs.com"">Flower Bulbs Web</a>.

Gardening For Birds

Author: Gene

Article: Creating the perfect garden for birds begins by understanding the needs of birds. Birds, as with other wildlife, require certain elements in the garden to survive.

These elements include:

Food

Water

Shelter

Planting for birds can add beauty as well as function to your backyard.

Food:

Begin by surveying your yard. You may already have some of the ingredients needed for a bird friendly backyard.

Many flowers you already enjoy provide food for the birds. Coneflowers are a favorite summer and fall food source for Goldfinches. Sunflowers offer the seed that attracts the greatest variety of birds.

Consider tubular flowers for attracting Hummingbirds. Favorites include Trumpet vine, Cardinal flower, and Scarlet runner.

Annuals can also attract these tiny hummers, try including mass plantings of salvia, impatient, and containers of geraniums.

Adding some of the ornamental grasses will also provide late summer feeding for birds, while providing beauty in the landscape. Those tall plumes provide seed Goldfinches, Black-capped Chickadees, and Purple Finches love.

Shelter: Trees and shrubs in the landscape not only provide beauty but offer the birds a place to hide and raise their young.

Flowering Dogwoods, and the small fruited crabapples, not only provide a valuable food source, but will attract Robins and others to nest in spring. Select varieties that hold their fruit well into winter.

Favorite shrubs include, Service Berry, Honeysuckle, and American Holly. Plant these and you are sure to be visited by Robins, Thrashers, Mockingbirds, and more. Shrubs are also a favorite nesting site of the Northern Cardinal.

Evergreens are an essential part of the bird garden. Providing important shelter and berries during winters cold. In spring, you'll be rewarded by nesting birds by planting a few varieties of tall evergreens.

Water: How you provide water isn't important. Whether you add a full backyard pond or a simple bird bath, just be sure to add water. Birds need water not only to drink, but also to keep their feathers in tip-top shape.

Even in winter, a water supply is needed. Consider purchasing a bird bath heater. A heated bird bath will not only keep an open water source available for the birds, but will offer you a greater variety of birds to watch. Without a winter source of water, birds will have to use energy used to keep warm and survive to find water.

Allow your plants to remain in the garden through the winter. This allows the birds to feed on seed heads and insects much longer.

Consider placing feeders and birdhouses in your yard. Once you've watched House Wrens scouring the soil for insects in your vegetable and flower gardens, you'll be convinced, gardening for birds is in your best interest.

Visit <A HREF=""www.wild-bird-watching.com"">Wild-Bird-Watching.com</a> for bird watching information on the nesting, mating, and feeding habits of backyard birds.

About the author: None

Caring for perennials in the garden

Author: Tony Robinson

Article: Perennials have long been one of the most popular classifications of flowering plant, and this is likely to continue for some time. There are many advantages to using perennials in the garden, not the least of which is their ability to regenerate year after year. The ability to plant once, and enjoy season after season of beautiful flowers, is one of the things that make perennials so popular with beginning and experienced gardeners alike.

Another great thing about perennials is that they are usually very easy plants to care for and to work with. Most perennials have needs that are quite undemanding, requiring little more than good soil, sufficient water and adequate sunlight. Even so, perennials also have their own issues, and one of the biggest issues is that perennials, due to their nature, are more prone to insect infestation and disease infection than are annuals, which have a much shorter life span. The very fact that perennials remain in the ground season after season means that infection can gain a foothold, even in the off season.

The best way to combat infection is to stop it from starting in the first place, and one of the best ways to accomplish that goal is to buy only the healthiest most vibrant plants. It is important to pay careful attention to the plants you buy at your local nursery, and to reject any that show signs of damage, disease or insect infestation. That is because healthy plants are better able to withstand any pathogens that may exist in the soil. A healthy plant will be able to withstand and fight off an infection that would kill a weaker one.

In addition, many perennials have been bred to be resistant to common diseases and pest infestations, so if these disease resistant varieties are available it is a good idea to seek them out. Perennial growers have spent many years using selective breeding to choose those plants that are best able to withstand commonly seen garden problems.

After the plants are in the ground, it is a good idea to check them often for any signs of problems. The best time to examine your plants is often when you are weeding the plants or watering them. This is a great time to look at the plants for any problems. Note any plants with wilted leaves, holes in the leaves, spots on the leaves or flowers, wounds on the stems or other possible problems. If you notice any problems, be sure to diagnose it accurately, using either a guide book or the eye of a more experienced gardener. Diagnosing the problem accurately is the first step toward curing it.

How you water perennials can have a big impact on their health. Overhead watering encourages water spots to remain on leaves, and these wet spots can be conduits that allow infection to spread from one plant to another. It is best to water deeply, using either drip irrigation or a soaker hose. Not only will this avoid standing water on the flowers and leaves, but it will also allow much needed water to reach the roots.

Of course, proper care for perennials does not end when the growing season is over. It is important to care for these plants the right way after they have finished blooming. It is important to trim and prune is variety of perennial according to the recommendations for the species. Some perennials need to be radically trimmed back, while other varieties should be trimmed only lightly or not at all. It is important to pay attention to the needs of each variety in your garden.

About the author: Tony Robinson is an international author and webmaster. In his busy life he finds time to ""Smell the Roses"". For geat tips, techniques and articles visit http://www.rose-bloom.com

A Little Known Secret to Successful Outdoor Gardening

Author: Leonard Mutch

Article: A Little Known Secret to Successful Outdoor Gardening ......Pruning

Outdoor gardening is so much easier when you know how. Outdoor gardening is much more enjoyable when you know a few secrets.

Much of the enjoyment of outdoor gardening comes from the care and proper maintenance of the garden.

Not many plants will look their best without some help, and pruning is one of these techniques considered essential to outdoor gardening if plants are to flower and fruit well, and to keep pests and diseases at bay.

For those inexperienced in outdoor gardening, pruning can often be a reason for concern. Questions may arise, such as when is the best time to prune, and how, and where.

We prune our trees and shrubs mainly to increase flowering and fruiting, to control diseases, or to change the size or shape of the plant.

Some shrubs such as Forsythia need an annual prune of their older wood to help maintain vigor and to produce new flowering shoots. These new shoots are produced from the base of the plant. If Forsythia was left un pruned it could soon become overcrowded, allowing little room for new shoots to grow and flower. I recommend that after flowering each year you cut out a good quarter to one third of the old wood around the base of the shrub.

A number of shrubs can be encouraged through pruning to develop larger foliage with no flowers. This is usually done in late winter or early spring. The shrub is either cut back to the ground, or cut back very hard whilst removing dead wood and twigs.

Some trees are suitable for this type of pruning, and this can totally change the appearance of these plants.

Ornamental fruit trees will produce much more flowers and fruit when pruned correctly. As a rough guide for outdoor gardening the plants that flower early in the season should be pruned as soon as flowering has finished,whilst late flowering shrubs can be done at the beginning of the growing season.

Many shrubs are grown for the color of their stems, and will need to be pruned at frequent intervals if the color is to be kept. A technique called ""coppicing"" where the shrub is pruned hard close to the ground is usually involved.

Coppicing is also used for the production of wood suitable for fencing. In outdoor gardening however, it is used most often to stimulate fresh new growth in the colorful stems of trees and shrubs. The shape of trees and shrubs in the outdoor garden can be changed by pruning and crossing branches that are close together. The object here is to construct a natural open shape so that air can circulate freely.

If some of your older shrubs are getting a bit woody and ugly you could try cutting the plant back hard whilst trying to keep some leaves on the lower branches, before deciding to pull them up. It's worth giving the plant a feed and mulch at this time too.

What pruning tools will you need for outdoor gardening?

For outdoor gardening you will need secateurs for soft shoots and small branches, or loppers for branches that are too thick to be cut with secateurs, and a saw for even bigger branches. Always use good quality tools and make sure they are sharp.

It is essential to the health of your plants that you prune correctly. Cut out all diseased, weak and dead growth. Always cut back to healthy wood, free from the staining of infected tissue. Generally when pruning cuts are made on trees and shrubs it should be made to a bud, which will then grow away without leaving a dead stump. You should choose a bud that is facing the direction you want the branch to grow away to, then make a slanting cut about 2 inches above the bud. If the plant has opposing buds, then cut straight across.

A good tip for creating cleaner, easier cuts on lighter stems and branches with secateurs is to hold the stem in your free hand and bend it slightly with light pressure before cutting. To remove a branch from a shrub or tree, you first need to cut the branch back to about a foot from the trunk. This will help to prevent the branch tearing. Don't however cut the remaining stub flush with the trunk, but leave a small swelling which can heal on its own. Pare off ragged parts left on sawn surfaces.

Collect all your prunings and compost them if soft and healthy, but burn them if woody or diseased.

Enjoy your outdoor gardening by pruning successfully. Make the right cut to improve your outdoor gardening skills.

About the author: Leonard Mutch makes it easy to improve your gardening skills. Subscribe now to his monthly newsletter for tips and savings. Visit this site: http://www.gardenandplantcenter.com

Using Edgings In Your Garden

Author: Lee Dobbins

Article: You’ve planted the flowers, put in the shrubs and even added a bird bath and a few garden decorations, but what’s missing? Could it be the edging?

Almost as important as the flowers, the edging is like the frame to your garden. The picture can be interesting and beautiful, but it needs a frame to really enhance its appearance. Just like a picture, your garden needs it’s frame to really bring out the beauty of your living “work of art”.

There are many different types of edgings and you must plan which one will look best in your garden. One popular type of edging is to use a low brick or rock wall, cemented together with mortar. This will create a beautiful and permanent edge to your garden. Of course, not everyone has the means, money or desire to do this.

Another lovely way of edging is to simply place bricks around the borders of your garden. You can put them in a line, stacked in a double row, set on their edges or tip them diagonally and lean them against each other.

In a similar fashion, you can use large rocks to edge your garden. Use rocks that are big enough to make an impact, but ones that you can easily carry and move yourself. You can gather the rocks from fields, the woods or friends yards for free!

In your garden supply store, you will find many manufactured edgings to suite any style of garden. Miniature fences, fake rocks, plastic, metal – you name it, they have it. I prefer a more natural type edging, but if you must buy one of these, choose a good quality product and not something that looks cheap and will only last for 1 season.

You can always create a living edging by using a border plant. Some great border plants include alpine phlox which is suitable for most climates and can be divided and planted again and again, gazanias, pansies, petunias and violas.

If you pick perennial plants, like the alpine phlox or gazania, then you can divide them and propagate them throughout the border. This will help reduce costs as you won’t have to keep buying new plants, but will take longer to establish a full border.

For large gardens, comfrey can make a good border. It has thick growth and will prevent grasses from encroaching on the garden. Also, you can use the leaves for mulch around y our other plants. When blooming, the tiny flowers will add interest to your border. Keep in mind, however, that comfrey is not suitable for small gardens as it can easily overwhelm the other plants.

One of my favourite ways to edge a garden is to use an herb border. Even strawberries can be used as a border and their bright flowers and lush fruits will add quite a bit of interest to any garden. When preparing meals, simply step out in to the garden and cut some fresh herbs each evening!

Perhaps the simplest form of edging is to take a shovel and bevel and edge all around the garden. The can be a nice subtle way to break up the line between garden and grass. You can rent a gas powered edging tool if shovelling by hand seems like too much work. This type of edging will need to be redone each year.

No matter what option you choose, your gardens will take on another dimension with it’s framed edging.

About the author: Lee Dobbins writes for <A HREF=http://www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com>http://www.backyard -garden-and-patio.com</A> where you can learn more about gardens. Visit their article database at <A HREF=http://www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com/articles5.html>http ://www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com/articles5.html</A>

Mole Traps: Can you use them?

Author: Andy Beard

Article: Mole control is one of the most complicated problems that can face a gardening enthusiast.

It is not from lack of information. Plenty of information is available. University research and white papers, government brochures, and plenty of expert opinions.

It is not from a lack of products either. At any time there are 10 or more different varieties of mole trap on sale, plus various poisons and repellants.

The experts, university professors and even the government, when they express an opinion, even come close to a concensus. Mole traps are probably the most effective method of mole control, if set correctly, checked on a regular basis etc.

Most reports however take a very simplistic view:-

A single plot of land

No regard to whether neighbouring plots are residential, farmland or wooded. No recommendations on how to co-ordinate efforts with neighbours. If one neighbour has a huge infestation of moles, but refuses to take action, can they be force to do so? If you used fumigation in such a case, could they hold you liable for killing their moles?

Rules apply to specific locality

There are states in the US where the use of mole traps are restricted. There are areas of Canada where both the Eastern Mole and the Townsend mole are a protected species. The bordering states in the US have no restrictions, yet species conservation is meant to be a global concern.

Lethal methods of mole control can only be used in Germany where the moles are a confirmed hazard. The use of traps in many US States currently falls under hunting regulations which can require a license, and specific measures to be taken. This is often not enforced.

About the author: <a href=""http://andybeard.name"">Andy Beard</a> is researching mole control to combat the moles in his garden. More information can be found at <a href=""http://getting-rid-of-ground-moles.com"">Getting Rid of Ground Moles</a>

Homemade Hummingbird Nectar

Author: George Steiner

Article: We love hummingbirds and love to watch them throughout the day, especially after a long day, relaxing in our backyard nature retreat.

We have 4 feeders that are strategically located throughout our gardens. The red, hummingbird nectar feeders ( red attracts hummingbirds) are placed in areas that are naturally defined “territories” ( as you know, hummingbirds are very territorial) which helps cut down on the fighting.

Our recipe is derived from the old standard recipe, but please be aware that a lot of research has gone into making sure that we are providing the most beneficial source of hummingbird food replacement.

Our recipe starts with cane sugar. As you know, there are two sources of sugar: cane sugar and beet sugar, of which 70% of the world’s supply comes from cane sugar. Both are chemically “sucrose” and fall into the carbohydrate family. Carbohydrates are easily digested and provide the immediate “energy boost” that hummingbirds need to sustain their incredibly high metabolism. (Comment: I guess if we humans had that kind of metabolism we wouldn’t be facing our obesity crisis! Wow…what a concept …more exercise …increased metabolic rate …burn more calories …less fat).

Sorry! Back to the topic…the second constituent our hummingbird food recipe is water. Ever thought about the type of water you use for your hummingbird food? We have. The hummingbird’s source water comes from the naturally occurring water sources available: dew, rain water and deposits of rain water, people provided (bird baths), and finally that provided in the hummingbird’s diet.

We use our tap water which is supplied from our well. The water’s chemical composition is generally hard ( contains calcium and magnesium) but has a TDS ( Total Dissolved Solids) of 275 ppm with no measurable concentrations of lead or arsenic. Its safe for us to drink so the hummers get the benefits of some added minerals. We feel its better than using distilled or purified water in our hummingbird recipe.

Now, if you’re a city dweller, you may have chlorine or flouride added to your water. I’d recommend boiling that water to flash off the chlorine or flouride, 5 minutes of boiling should be sufficient.

Next ingredient ….RED COLORING….No way!

Lets look at it from a hummingbird’s perspective. They like red and are attracted to the color due to genetics and environmental stimuli … flowers. If your hummingbird feeder is red… why do you need more?

Naturally occurring nectar is clear and odorless ( Hummingbirds are not attracted by scent). So why buy these colored or scented mixes?

The red coloring (Red #40) has been banned in countries due to its mutagenic properties ( can cause cancer). Why would you want to introduce chemicals into the hummingbird’s diet that are foreign to their digestive system?

Several experienced, licensed wildlife rehabilitators have reported seeing disturbing damage in hummers that were known to use dyed syrup, including tumors of the bill and liver.

Here is our researched hummingbird food recipe:

1 part cane sugar/ 4 parts water ( no chlorine or fluoride) Measure and add sugar, at the rate of 1/4 cup of sugar to 1 cup of water. Let cool and store excess in refrigerator until ready to use.

Fill one-third of the container and be sure to change the mixture twice a week. You will need to clean your feeder every few days, with hot water and a mild (10%) bleach solution to inhibit bacteria/mold. Rinse thoroughly before refilling with water syrup.

Hope you enjoyed the article!

George Steiner www.hum-ming-bird.com

About the author: George and wife Judy are empty nesters (ah ha no wonder the affinity for birds!)who enjoy the outdoors, stained glass and eagerly awaiting for the truckloads of laundry that their two college daughters bring home. Of recent, the internet has played an integral part in George's lengthening ""To Do"" list and Judy's search for a internet rehabilitation center.

How to install a liner pond

Author: Gerry Fung

Article: Liner ponds are ideal for the experienced water gardener because they allow for very forgiving installations, which consequently promotes greater creativity. However, for the very same reasons, liner ponds also require some extra pre-planning. Before you commence a liner pond project, you should purchase a pond liner that is of the appropriate size for your pond dimensions. To determine the appropriate liner size, it is recommended that you use a <a href = ""http://www.gardensupermart.com/tips/calc.asp"">pond liner calculator</a>. To follow are instructions and tips on how you can install your very own liner pond.

It is recommended that you purchase an EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) liner that is at least 45 mil in thickness. EPDM is a highly stable material that stays flexible in temperatures from -40 degrees Fahrenheit to 175 degrees Fahrenheit. Unlike other liner materials, it does not contain plasticizers that could cause it to become brittle with age. EPDM will also last longer than other liner materials because it is resistant to the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation (UV), and it has high expansion and contraction characteristics that enable it to conform to rocks and tree roots in the earth sub grade.

Once you have designed the pond on paper, and purchased all the necessary materials, you should start by marking the outline of the pond with rope or a garden hose. Start by digging a coping shelf around the perimeter of the pond. The coping shelf will help to hold the boulder, rockwork, and the liner overlay into place. The coping shelf should be approximately 2"" deep and 16 to 18 inches wide. It is recommended that you utilize a square shovel to dig the coping shelf, because round or sharp-pointer shovels can leave small furrows in the dirt.

After ensuring that the coping shelf is level all around the pond, dig a bog shelf for plants. Most ponds are designed with shelves 9"" to 12"" below the water level. Afterwards, the center (I.e. deepest area) of the pond should be dug. The deep area should slope in approximately 20 degrees from the vertical. Prepare the hole for the liner by removing sharp stones or roots. At this point, you have the option of lining the excavation with pond underlayment. Although it is not mandatory, underlayment helps to cover the entire surface, to protect the liner from below. Liner underlayment does not need to be in a single piece, hence smaller pieces can be overlapped. However, it is recommended that you tape smaller underlayment pieces together, to keep the pieces from moving after the liner is placed on top.

The liner should be carefully laid-out into the hole. Although a 45 mil liner is thick and durable, care must be taken to make certain that the liner is not damaged or punctured during installation. Unlike the underlayment, the liner must be a single unbroken sheet. Try to minimize the folding and pleating of the liner, because folds have the potential to trap dirt and debris. A perfectly intact liner should last for 40 years before it begins to deteriorate.

Now you're ready to fill the pond with water! As you're filling the pond, stop the hose periodically to smooth out wrinkles in the liner. After the pond has been filled, you can cut off any excess liner, but make sure that enough material is left to allow the liner to extend over the coping shelf (and underneath whatever edging is planned). The liner can be anchored with boulders, or long nails around its edge. Edging materials should be applied around the liner to weigh it down, which has the added benefit of giving your pond a natural look. At this point, the most difficult part of the installation has been completed. All that remains to be done is to install the pump, and decorate around the pond. However, if you find yourself with an uncontrollable urge to expand your water garden, you should definitely consider the installation of a cascade or waterfall.

For more information on installing a liner pond, please go to <a href = ""http://www.gardensupermart.com/tips.asp""> http://www.gardensupermart.com/tips.asp</a>. Liner pond kits, complete with liner, appropriately sized pump, and fountain heads, can be purchased from GardenSM.com’s website at <a href = ""http://www.gardensupermart.com/buypond/c229944.2.html""> http://www.gardensupermart.com/buypond/c229944.2.html</a>.

About the author: Gerry Fung is the Vice President of <a href = ""http://www.gardensupermart.com"">GardenSM.com</a>.

The Many Types of Palm Trees

Author: David Chandler

Article: There are thousands of species of Palm Trees. They are considered to be tropical in nature, but most people are not aware that cold hardy palms may be planted outside without any visible damage from temperatures as cold as -20°F. You can see this as far north as Canada and Switzerland

Palm trees, like banana trees, give your home and garden that tropical look, usually found around pools and family recreational areas. Once established, Palm Trees are relatively maintenance free and are not significantly bothered by insects and disease.

There are two basic types of Palm trees and we will tell you about the Northern and Southern Palms.

Cold Palms (Northern Palms)

Afghanistan palm - Pakistan Palm and Mazari Palm - This palm may be the coldest hardy in the world, according to authoritative doctors on the subject of Palms. Their fruit is also edible and very popular to eat in that impoverished nation. The tree grows very slowly and thrives in desert conditions.

Dwarf Palmetto or Sabal minor - Blue Palmetto is widely distributed throughout the Southeastern United States and grows about 6ft. tall in shaded locations. This Palm is very difficult to transplant from the wild.

Needle Palm - Rhapidophyllum hystrix is a needle palm, which are the most frost hardy palms on earth surviving -20°F weather with little damage.

Saw Palmetto or Serenoa Repens - Sassafras Palm has been found growing wild as far north as Virginia, Washington D.C., and New Jersey, and is cold hardy to -10° F.

Windmill Palm or Trachycarpus fortunel has been known to be cold hardy for many years and have been growing in Switzerland for 100 years along Lake Lucerne.

Adapted palms (Southern palms) Cabbage Palm or Sabal Palmetto - Sabal Palm and Palmetto Palm is the state tree of South Carolina and Florida. It is popular as a landscape tree in southern states with excellent cold-hardiness and transplanting success. Sabal palms are salt water tolerant.

Canary Island Date Palm - Phoenix canariensis or Majestic Palm. Is the most desirable palm to give a tropical look to the landscape. The trees grow about 50ft tall with leaves up to 20ft long.

Chinese Fan Palm is a slow growing palm; forms very large leaves, which will give a full-grown, tree a look of weeping. This palm can withstand below freezing weather, and can grow inside patios. You can find this palm tree along highways. This type of palm tree can grow up to 25ft tall.

Date Palm is the true date palm of North Africa. It has been planted widely in Arizona and California for production of dates. Date palms work well in mall landscaping.

Gum Palm is cold hardy to light freezes, but will freeze in weather below 20°F. The long leaves look like fern fronds, but the leaflets are bright shiny green in colour and stiff and sharply toothed.

European Fan Palm or European Palm. Has a large crown of blue-green fanlike leaves. This palm is considered to be one of the coldest hardy and grows outside. The plant can be relocated and will survive easy with little transplant shock when moved, even in during the summer months.

Pygmy Date Palm is a good container plant when potted indoors. Fine-leafed, small scale, single-trunked palm; grows slowly up to about 5ft.

Washingtonian Palm or Mexican Fan Palm has a tall slender trunk, has a crown of large fan-shaped evergreen fronds, and can provide a very tropical appearance to the landscape.

Sago Palm is a feather leaf palm that is found along the Atlantic coast beach and is 300 years old and 12 feet tall with dignified umbrella crowns.

Phoenix Sylvester Palm or Toddy Palm is very similar to the Canary Island Palm and the edible date palm.

Zamia pumila or Coontie Palm is known as the prehistoric plant, which dominated the earth 200 million years ago and grows 3ft tall on separate male and female plants.

For more information, visit http://www.PalmsInfo.com

http://www.PalmTreesInfo.com

About the author: None

Tips For Windowsill Gardening

Author: Johann Erickson

Article: Believe it or not, keeping the green of Spring in you life year-round, is easier than you think. While it’s great fun to get outside and start planting that vegetable or flower garden, many people keep the freshness in their life even during the winter, by starting windowsill gardens.

Of all plants that are easiest to grow indoors, herbs are at the top of the list. Not only are they green and decorative, they’re also delicious. And when grown in the kitchen, they’re just a step away from the pot of spaghetti sauce or the stew that’s cooking for dinner.

It’s possible to purchase commercial kits that contain seeds for a variety of herbs, as well as a plastic seed bed with a clear hood. These kits usually include a growing medium, and sometimes may also have small pots for transplanting the seeds to once they are growing. Alternatively, you can use a clear, hard plastic box that you bought donuts in, and create you own little “greenhouse”, purchasing only the seeds you want, and buying small pots and growing medium in the quantity you’ll need.

How you set up your “garden” depends greatly on the space of your windowsill. It may only be wide enough to hold small pots once the plants are established. But if you want more room for the seedling boxes, or a sturdy and safe place for your growing plants, consider fixing a wooden shelf under the sill. These can often be found at craft stores or fairs, in the unfinished wood, so that you can paint or varnish them as you please. Many also come with the hooks for mugs and cups, so they’re a great addition to kitchen décor.

If you can get one that has a small railing around the edge of the shelf, that’s all the better, as it keeps pots from accidentally sliding off if someone bumps the shelf.

Although the kitchen is a desirable spot, your plants will do best in a window that has at least six hours of sunlight a day, to keep the growth cycle moving along. This could be an east or south window. West windows tend to have the hottest sun, which may not be good for tender young plants, especially in Spring or Summer. If the window area tends to be extremely cold during winter nights, you may want to put the plants down on a cupboard or table until the sun comes back up.

Be careful of your watering habits, since plants in pots do not lose their water into the earth around them like they would in a garden. Water only when the soil is beginning to dry. But remember also, that your house does not have the same humidity as an outdoor garden, and in winter particularly, indoor heating systems dry out the air. Mist your plants in winter, to keep leaves from drying out, and to prevent the proliferation of certain pests.

Herbs are by no means the only “garden” plant that can be grown indoors year-round. Some annuals and even a few perennials can be grown successfully, given the right soil and temperature conditions. If you have the space, then decorative urns make a wonderful impromptu garden that will yield everything from tomatoes, to spinach, to beans! Give it a try, and see what grows inside your home this year.

About the author: Johann Erickson is the owner of <a href=""http://www.onlinediscountmart.com"">Online Discount Mart</a> and <a href=""http://www.tvproducts4less.com"">TV Products 4 Less</a>.

Maximize your waterfall flow with the Master DW Waterfall pump

Author: Gerry Fung

Article: A common mistake that beginner water gardeners often make is that they fail to take the height and width of their waterfall into consideration, when they purchase a waterfall pump. Because of this, it is quite common for water gardeners to underestimate the size of the pump required for their pond.

Calculating the proper pump for waterfalls can be tricky, because waterfall pumps are rated by both GPH and maximum waterfall height. To estimate your waterfall's height, you must measure the vertical height from the top of your pump to the top of your waterfall or stream. In addition, you must add another foot of height or lift for every 10 feet of hosing you will be using (this will allow for loss of volume from resistance within the hose). To calculate the required pump GPH, a general rule of thumb is that each inch of width of the channel will require an extra 100 GPH. For example, if your stream or waterfall spillway will be 10 inches wide, you will need a pump that produces an excess flow of 1000 GPH at your waterfall's height.

Do not make the mistake of underestimating the pump size that you require, otherwise, your waterfall will be reduced to a trickle of water. If you have a large waterfall, you will need a specialized pump that will provide you sufficient GPH. <a href = ""http://www.gardensupermart.com"">GardenSM.com</a> is proud to introduce a new product line of high-end Master DW submersible waterfall pumps that can run at ratings of up to 2780 GPH. The pumps in the Master DW series have been designed for medium to large ponds, for particularly dirty water, and to create waterfalls.

One of the most significant benefits of the Master DW series is that they have been designed to be clog-free. In addition to their built-in double filtration intake that can filter waste particles up to 8mm in size, all Master DW pumps feature an anti-clog system which consists of a double-rotation impeller. This ""self-cleaning"" feature is particularly useful when there is an abundance of leaves and sediment in your pond water. If one of the rotors is ever blocked by an object, the impeller will reverse direction, until the object is removed and normal operating status can be restored. And if these two fail-safe anti-clog mechanisms are not enough, the pump can also be combined with external filters for increased filtration.

The Master DW currently comes in 1430 GPH (Master DW 5500) and 2780 GPH (Master DW 10500) versions. Both run on SICCE's patented NRG energy system, which utilizes magnet-synchronous motors for exceptional power and reliability. However, the 10500 model is a top-of-the-line pump which offers an unprecedented 10,500 lt/h power/head performance at 10 mt.

The simplicity and reliability of the Master DW's synchronous motors, and its fail-safe anti-clog system, combined with the most sophisticated electronics make the Master DW a truly unique product.

The Master DW can be purchased from GardenSM.com's online store at <A href = ""http://www.gardensupermart.com/buypond/c230094p16551679.2.html""> http://www.gardensupermart.com/buypond/c230094p16551679.2.html</a >.

Please visit <a href = ""http://www.gardensupermart.com"">http://www.GardenSM.com</a> for more information about water gardening.

About the author: None

Liner ponds versus folding preformed ponds

Author: Gerry Fung

Article: <h2>Introduction</h2>

So you’ve decided to build your very own backyard water garden. You are in the process of actively planning out your design, and you’re visualizing the end-result. But have you paused to consider what kind of pond construction you will be using? Do you know what kind of pond constructions exist? The majority of garden ponds utilize one of two types of constructions: a preformed shell, or a pond liner. </p> <IMG height=177 src=""http://gardensupermart.com/buypond/pics/72.jpg"" width=152 border=0> <IMG height=192 src=""http://gardensupermart.com/buypond/pics/105.jpg"" width=146 border=0> <IMG height=194 src=""http://gardensupermart.com/buypond/pics/144.jpg"" width=190 border=0>

<h2>Introducing Folding Preformed Pond Shells</h2>

Traditionally, preformed ponds are large shells, which are extremely burdensome and difficult to transport. For example, a typical preformed pond kit would come in a box that is 60” x 48” x 24”, which is too large for many car trunk sizes. </p>

To alleviate this problem, flexible preformed ponds have recently been introduced by various manufacturers. These folding ponds include built-in plant shelves, are weather-resistant, and are able to withstand extreme temperatures from 0 F to 105 F. </p>

<IMG height=152 src=""http://gardensupermart.com/buypond/pics/folding1.gif"" width=192 border=0> <IMG height=151 src=""http://gardensupermart.com/buypond/pics/folding2.gif"" width=188 border=0> <IMG height=150 src=""http://gardensupermart.com/buypond/pics/folding3.gif"" width=191 border=0> </P>

One example of a folding pond, is the one that Algreen distributes (available at <a href = ""http://www.gardensupermart.com"">GardenSM.com</a>). Upon closer examination of one of their ponds, one of its greatest features is its textured ridges. These ridges are strategically placed to allow beneficial bacteria to form growth colonies, which significantly reduces algae-buildup in the pond. </p> <h2>Liner Ponds</h2>

Liner kits, on the other hand, present many difficulties for the beginner pond gardener. Since every liner pond shape is different, pond gardeners must customize their own pond and ensure that it is level, and that it does not have excessive wrinkling. Therefore, liners are ideal for the more experienced water gardeners because they allow for customizable installations, which consequently promotes greater creativity. However, for the very same reasons, liner ponds also require some extra pre-planning. </p>

Because you can create various shapes with liners, it is possible to construct larger, and deeper liner pond configurations (when compared to preformed ponds). For example, a typical preformed pond at <a href = ""http://www.gardensupermart.com/buypond/"">GardenSM.com</a> can only hold up to 144 gallons of water. On the other hand, a 10' x 15' liner can be purchased from the same store that can construct a pond that would hold up to 700 gallons of water. However, in terms of cost, the purchase of a EPDM liner is a more expensive option, when compared to the purchase of a preformed pond. </p>

Before making a decision about the pond construction that you require, it is important that you take a moment to consider several variables: cost, labour required, and creativity. It is hoped that by making the proper decision that your pond experience will be all the more enjoyable. </p>

About the author: Gerry Fung is the Vice President of <a href = ""http://www.northbridgeproducts.com"">Northbridge Products Inc.</a>.

Everyone Loves Flowers

Author: Frank Vanderlugt

Article: Flowers Truly Reach Your Soul. Flowers are a heartfelt, natural way to lift our spirits. They can provide a smile for a tired face or even brighten a room for a convalescent. Just imagine your favourite flower. Are you smiling yet? You are definitely in a better mood.

There isn't a doubt that beautiful surroundings provide us with a favorite environment that helps us thrive. Flowers are an simple and affordable way to add a splash of color and emotion into your life. Tropical flowers are an exciting new change from traditional floral gifts like roses , and with modern shipping methods they are availble worldwide. Their large size and vibrant colors make them an impressive gift for favorite occasions like Mother's Day, Valentine's Day, birthdays and anniversaries.

Flowers can be purchased from local florists or ""Grower Direct"" services that ship them worldwide. If purchasing flowers to be shipped, make sure someone is waiting to accept the order and that they are not left with the mail on a back porch in the sun all afternoon until someone comes home from work. Flowers are shipped without any water supply, and neglecting them for hours on top of the shipping time can take days off their lifespan.

If you buy tropical flowers like heliconias or gingers, or if you are lucky enought to live in the tropics and have them in your garden, here are a select few tips to help them thrive and to extend their shelf life as cut flowers.

Caring for Cut Tropical Flowers ------------------------------------------

one. Water your plants well and give them a large drink prior to cutting. This is significant for foliage plants as well because a few varieties “drink” incredibly little after cutting. Instead, they live off their stored sap.

Tropical plants have adapted to their natural environment which means frequent but short periods of heavy tropical downpour.

Look at the flower heads and notice how the petals are “cupped” to catch and store as much water as possible. These plants drink from the top and like being showered with water.

Look at the pattern on the leaves. The ridges channel water down to the stem where it's absorbed into the many layers of the plant.

two. If your flowers have been out of water for any length of time after cutting, submerge them entirely in the bath for half an hour before placing them in a vase.

three. Cut three to four inches off the stem and then place them in a tall vase FULL of clean water.

four. Use a spray bottle to mist them at least twice a day.

five. Change the water and trim a new end on the stems every second or third day.

You are able to double the vase life of your cut flowers by applying these elementary techniques.

About the author: None

Pest control for perennials

Author: Tony Robinson

Article: Perennials are a great choice for any garden, with their great variety of colors, shapes and sizes. Perennials also have another important advantage over other types of flowers. That is, unlike annuals, which must be replanted year after year, perennials, by their very nature, are able to regenerate from year to year. This means you are free to plant once and enjoy many seasons of beautiful blooms.

While the actual longevity of perennials varies from variety to variety, some types, such as peonies, have been known to last for decades once planted.

This longevity, however, can come at a price, and one of those disadvantages is that perennials need more care when it comes to maintenance, weeding and pest control. Unlike the annual garden, which is dug up and restarted each year, perennials remain in the ground over the winter, and this can make them more prone to common garden pests than other types of plants.

One of the best defenses against pests in the perennial garden is a healthy and vigorous selection of plants. The healthier the plants in the garden the better they will be at fighting off common pests and garden infections. Plants that are well cared for and vigorous will be much less susceptible to damage by insects and other pests.

The vigilance of the gardener is another great tool in preventing pest infestations from getting out of control. A good gardener is constantly on the lookout for early signs of problems, such as holes in the leaves, marks or wounds on the stems, and other signs of pest problems.

Having a good guide to common garden pests and diseases is a good idea as well, since it can sometimes be difficult for the untrained eye to tell exactly what the problem is. Diagnosing the problem is the best way to cure it quickly, before it can spread.

Gardeners have a choice when it comes to pest control in their gardens. There are of course a great many chemical pesticides on the market, but there are a number of natural methods as well. Many experienced gardeners prefer to start out with the natural approach first, and move onto chemical methods only when natural attempts have failed.

One great natural pest control approach is to use beneficial insects to control harmful pests. Many garden supply stores sell these beneficial insects, and it is usually easy to seed a garden with these insects and get them to stay and remove harmful pests.

In addition, aphids can often be controlled simply by spraying plants with a very dilute mixture of soapy water, followed by a rinse of clean water. This method often works just as well, and is considerably less expensive, than chemical methods, and it has proven effective even on serious aphid infestations.

Another great way to control pests is to buy pest and disease resistant varieties of plants. Many perennials have been selectively bred to be resistant to common pests and diseases. If these varieties are available it is a good idea to seek them out. Even if they are more costly up front, the money you save on pesticides and other chemicals can make them quite cost effective.

About the author: Tony Robinson is an international author and webmaster. In his busy life he finds time to ""Smell the Roses"". For geat tips, techniques and articles visit http://www.rose-bloom.com

How to Care for Cut Flowers

Author: Frank Vanderlugt

Article: Flowers Truly Reach Your Soul. Flowers are a heartfelt, natural way to lift our spirits. They can provide a smile for a tired face or even brighten a room for a convalescent. Just imagine your favourite flower. Are you smiling yet? You are definitely in a better mood.

There isn't a doubt that beautiful surroundings provide us with a favorite environment that helps us thrive. Flowers are an simple and affordable way to add a splash of color and emotion into your life. Tropical flowers are an exciting new change from traditional floral gifts like roses , and with modern shipping methods they are availble worldwide. Their large size and vibrant colors make them an impressive gift for favorite occasions like Mother's Day, Valentine's Day, birthdays and anniversaries.

Flowers can be purchased from local florists or ""Grower Direct"" services that ship them worldwide. If purchasing flowers to be shipped, make sure someone is waiting to accept the order and that they are not left with the mail on a back porch in the sun all afternoon until someone comes home from work. Flowers are shipped without any water supply, and neglecting them for hours on top of the shipping time can take days off their lifespan.

If you buy tropical flowers like heliconias or gingers, or if you are lucky enought to live in the tropics and have them in your garden, here are a select few tips to help them thrive and to extend their shelf life as cut flowers.

Caring for Cut Tropical Flowers ------------------------------------------

one. Water your plants well and give them a large drink prior to cutting. This is significant for foliage plants as well because a few varieties “drink” incredibly little after cutting. Instead, they live off their stored sap.

Tropical plants have adapted to their natural environment which means frequent but short periods of heavy tropical downpour.

Look at the flower heads and notice how the petals are “cupped” to catch and store as much water as possible. These plants drink from the top and like being showered with water.

Look at the pattern on the leaves. The ridges channel water down to the stem where it's absorbed into the many layers of the plant.

two. If your flowers have been out of water for any length of time after cutting, submerge them entirely in the bath for half an hour before placing them in a vase.

three. Cut three to four inches off the stem and then place them in a tall vase FULL of clean water.

four. Use a spray bottle to mist them at least twice a day.

five. Change the water and trim a new end on the stems every second or third day.

You are able to double the vase life of your cut flowers by applying these elementary techniques.

Check out our website at http://www.flowers-now.info

About the author: None

The Truth About Tulips

Author: Janice Wee

Article: Roses may be beautiful but Tulips are magnificent. The huge colorful blooms we associate with Holland make stunning bouquets.

Did you know that Tulips did NOT originate from Holland? Actually, most species of wild tulips came from central asia and western asia. Tulips that originated in Europe were mainly from the Mediterranean.

How much would YOU pay for a tulip bulb? Did you know way back in 1635, a single tulip bulb could fetch the equivalent of $35,000 in present day money. No other flower ever generated such an insane following. But why?

Part of it is due to the beauty of the flower and the rarity of the tulip back in those days. It became a status symbol. People wanted to outdo one another with tulips. So the demand for tulips went sky high. The insanity that came next can be compared to the insanity in the stock market prior to stock market crashes. Investors would then buy tulips at ridiculous to sell at even crazier prices. Needless to say, when the inevitable crash came, fortunes were lost.

Lessons learnt from that incident can be applied to the stock market today. Same thing happened in the dot com boom and bust. Same thing is going to happen over and over again. Greed leading to blindness. The only remedy is to keep your eyes open and look at the facts. The important thing is how much something is really worth. Not what others say it would be worth in the future.

Tulips are valued for their beauty. They are treasured across nations. The Dutch crown princess fled to Canada for refuge during the world war. At the end of the war, Tulips became their gift of friendship. The Dutch gave Canada 1 million tulips in gratitude for the friendship displayed in the war. Such is the value of Tulips. Tulips are considered to be a symbol of friendship. Even today, you can see that magnificent display of Tulips in Canada. Reminding one about friendship in times of need.

These days, tulips are no longer as expensive as back then. An entire garden blooming with tulips during spring time is very affordable. All you need are some great tulip bulbs.

Tulips bloom after snow. So if you live where there is snow, then plant them in September. Tulips need the cold before then can bloom. If the winters are harsh, then cover the bulbs with straw or leaves.

What do you do if you live where there is no snow?

Well, if you have a refrigerator, use it. Put the <a href=http://www.cheapestsale.com/plants/tulip.html>tulip bulbs</a> in a paper bag and refrigerate it for 6 to 8 weeks, but keep them away from the fruit. Then plant the tulips.

About the author: The writer is the webmaster of <a href=http://www.cheapestsale.com/plants/>Cheapest sale, plants</a>

Preserving Flowers From A Potpourri Garden

Author: Jeff Slokum

Article: Fresh cut flowers all spring and summer are one of the bonuses of having a flower garden. Wouldn’t you love to extend that bonus throughout the year? By choosing the right flowers and learning methods of drying and preserving flowers, you can fill your house with the beauty and fragrance of potpourri all year long.

Growing a Potpourri Garden Potpourri is a fragrant mix of dried flower petals, leaves, whole flowers and spices. It can be sewn into sachets, simmered in a potpourri burner, or displayed in an open bowl. By choosing herbs and flowers that dry well and maintain their fragrance when dried, you’ll be well on your way to scenting your home with the natural fragrance of last summer’s garden.

Your potpourri mix should include both flowers and herbs from your garden, and be chosen with an eye toward color and a nose for scent. A potpourri garden might include several (or all!) of the following:

Fragrant Herbs and Flowers for a Potpourri Garden Lilac – this flower is both beautiful and fragrant. To use in potpourri, dry the flowerets separately on a drying screen. For use in dried flower arrangements, use silica gel to dry whole flowers.

Lavender – another fragrant purple flower, lavender dries well. Hang in bunches upside down in a dark, dry room. Both leaves and flowers carry the fragrance of lavender and can be used in potpourri.

Roses – Roses are a beautiful addition to any potpourri. For fragrance, separate the petals and dry on a drying screen. If you want to include whole rosebuds from your potpourri garden, they’re best dried in silica or another desiccant, but small, delicate rosebuds can be dried on screens as well.

Mint – There’s an amazing variety of mints available, and nearly any will add a hint of fresh spice to a potpourri. If you choose to grow mint in a potpourri garden, be sure to ‘cage’ the roots so that it doesn’t take over the entire plot. To dry, either air dry tied bunches, or dry separated leaves on a drying screen.

Lemon Balm – This perennial herb has a light lemony-mint scent that enhances the fragrance of roses and lilacs. The leaves should be picked before the plant flowers and dried quickly – it’s one of the few herbs that benefits from drying in a low oven on a screen.

Violets – Sweetly scented and brightly colored, violets preserve their color well through drying. To dry, nip the flower off just at the base of the head, and lay on drying screens in the sun.

Flowers and Herbs for Color in a Potpourri Garden Many of the herbs and flowers listed above are brightly colored as well as fragrant. There are some flowers, however, that will add little to the fragrance of potpourri but dry so prettily that it’s a shame not to include them.

Calendula – Bright yellow or blue petals make calendula a pretty addition to a bowl of potpourri. To use, you can either dry the entire flower head, or separate the petals to dry on a flower screen.

Pansies – A relative of violets, pansies retain their bright color when dried in silica gel. They’re a wonderful addition to a potpourri garden – besides their appearance, they’re edible and wonderful in salads or as candied decorations on a cake. In potpourri, the dried petals or whole-dried flowers make a beautiful accent.

About the author: This article courtesy of <A HREF=http://www.best-florists.org>http://www.best-florists.org</A >

Introduction to Agriculture

Author: Kirk Gordon

Article: <b>- What is Agriculture?</b>

Agriculture classifies the science, art and industry of animal and plant cultivation for use by humans such as a source of food, clothing, income, pets, et. In general, agriculture includes horticulture, livestock, dairy, and forestry. Image

<b>- Modern Agriculture</b>

Engineering and technology is heavily utilized in modern agriculture. Fields utilizing agricultural engineers includes, but not limited to Irrigation and Drainage .

One area of agriculture where plant production is advancing rapidly is Hydroponics; a method for growing plants' (soilless) in an inert medium like expanded clay pebbles or rockwool.

Because of the soilless aspect of hydroponics, people in extremely dry regions like parts of Africa, for example, can cultivate plants for food and other natural resources. Hydroponics may also increase food production - a concern for the growing population.

Plant genetics and breeding offers great benefits to farm productivity. Genetics has also turned livestock breeding into a science.

<b>- Agricultural Chemistry</b>

Agricultural chemistry is associated with other important farming concerns like fertilizer application, insecticides or pest control, fungicides, soil composition, agricultural products analysis, and nutritional requirements of farm animals.

<b>- Packaging, Processing & Marketing</b>

Technological progress and advancements have revolutionized the way produce is packaged, proces and market to consumers. Food processing summarize the steps required to process, package and ship the products to consumers from the time of harvest.

Food processing also includes analyzing food for bacteria, packaging, and preserving.

<b>- Technology</b>

Technology offered dual benefits to farmers like reducing the labor-intense portion of farming and increased the farms' effiency and productivity.

While technology dominates most modern farms today, animals like horses, donkey's and dogs are still actively working on farms as a means to transport produce or till the farm land.

Computers have also become an important agricultural management tool. Hydroponics and Greenhouse cultivation are two examples of agriculture that generally involve computers for managing lighting, feeding, temperature and pH.

Aircrafts including planes and helicopters are also used in daily agricultural business. Spraying insecticides on large farm land is pretty effective and efficient from the air. It's also a quick method to transport perishable produce.

About the author: Article Courtesy of HydroponicSearch.com - The <a href=""http://www.hydroponicsearch.com"">Agriculture</a> Search Engine & Educational Community.

What is the Right Plant and Where Do I Put It?

Author: james ellison

Article: Know if your plants are disease-susceptible. Your choice of plants used in your garden is as important as the soil that you put those plants in. Select plants that are disease resistant and they will be much more easy to maintain and will give you the look you are wanting. Food for thought is use plants that are native to your area.

The experience you get will tell you which are the troublesome plants. Obtain your plants from reliable sources and ask those people for their suggestions. They should be happy to help you because of return sales. The local cooperative extension service should provide much needed info for you. Some catalogs will list disease resistance plants.

Experience will eventually tell you which plant diseases are most troublesome in your region. Your local nursery and cooperative extension service are also good sources for information on local diseases and disease-resistant plants. Seed and nursery catalogs often list disease resistance in plant descriptions.

There are resistant varieties that exist for such diseases as apple scab, armillaria root rot, bean mosaic virus, blueberry mummyberry, cherry viruses, juniper tips and twig blights, lilac bacterial blight, powdery mildew, pea enation mosaic virus, potato scab, black spot, rust, tomato fusarium and root-knot nematode, fireblight, verticillium wilt, and other diseases.

What does the wrong exposure do to your plants? Take a long look at the conditions you have in your garden and choose your plants accordingly. Plants are usually clearly marked whether they prefer sun, partial shade or complete shade.

Shade plants grown in sun turn yellowish and grow poorly. They will get a sunburn which will develope dead spots on their leaves. Avoid south or west exposure. The sun lovers are often stunted and spindly when grown in the shade. If they grow at all, they are usually weak looking and have few leaves. Reduced flowering on many plants may result from shade placement.

Use water conservation landscaping whenever you can. Most gardeners in drought climates have come to realize the importance of water conservation.But in areas where water is plentiful, however, waste in the garden is way too common. We take our water supply for granted by wasting more than we ever need and in many areas, more groundwater is pumped than nature can replace through precipitation and runoff.

Why not use drought-tolerant plants. These plants grow well with little water once they are established. Mulch every plant you have.

Some grass species need less water than others, but lawns generally need a large amount of water to stay green and growing. If you replace the grass with drought-tolerant ground covers or flowers you'll save a large amount of water and even - money. If you can click here to read a funny story that hits the nail on head for what I am saying here.

Probably your favorite plants will have high water requirements. By grouping and mulching these plants allows you to irrigate them together, thus reducing water waste.

What about fruit-pollination requirements! Many beginning gardeners are confused when their fruit trees fail to bear fruit. Could be a pollination problem.

Certain types of trees produce bigger and more abundant fruit with cross-pollination between different cultivars. The others, cross-pollinating is mandatory to get any fruit at all.

Learn a fruit's pollination requirements before planting. If your space is limited, pick a self-pollinating fruit, such as European-type plums or almost any of the peach cultivars.

Pollination will not happen without insects, butterflies or hummingbirds. When chemical pesticides are routinely used by a neighbor or yourself, the honeybees and other pollinating insects can be reduced so that fruit production suffers. Go organic.

About the author: James Ellison makes it easy for you to understand picking plants and knowing where to put them. If you need to know more about organic gardening visit: www.basic-info-4-organic-fertilizers.com

An Edible Flower Garden

Author: John Sanderson

Article: To most of us, the idea of eating flowers evokes the humorous image of someone biting into a rose, or chomping off the head of a daisy. Yet there was a time not so very long ago that flowers were an integral part of cooking. While most of us are aware that violets can be candied and nasturtiums eaten in salad, there’s a truly amazing variety of flowers that are not only edible, but delicious!

A Candy Flower Garden for Your Sweet Tooth Violets aren’t the only flower that can be candied! Many of the spring flowers with small, delicate blossoms have a sweet, slightly spicy flavor that is enhanced by dipping in sugar. It goes without saying that any flowers that you gather for eating should not have been sprayed with any pesticide – by growing them yourself, you can be sure that they’re untreated. A Candy Flower Garden that blooms throughout the summer can include:

Violets – of course! Purple, blue or white, violets are among the first flowers to bloom in the spring. They spread easily, and grow readily when transplanted into a garden bed – and you do want to confine them to a bed unless you love the look of a full carpet of blooms spreading across your lawn.

Pansies – A relative of violets, pansies are just as delicately flavored and can be used in most recipes that call for violets. They make beautiful border flowers, with their bright painted faces.

Angelica – These delicate, lacy white flowers can be sprinkled in salads – but the stems and shoots make a delicious traditional candy that tastes a bit like minty licorice.

Roses – yes, roses! Candied rose petals and rose syrup were mainstays in Victorian cooking. Sweet delicately flavored rose syrup gives baklava its characteristic flavor, and is a perfect foil for cardamom in Indian recipes.

To candy flowers from your garden: Violets and pansies can be candied whole. Roses should be separated into petals. Most recipes for candied flowers call for the use of raw egg whites. Because of the danger of salmonella, I recommend using a confectioner’s powdered egg white instead.

Mix powdered egg white according to package directions (equivalent of one egg white).

Spread a cup of superfine sugar in a flat bottomed pan. Carefully dip each flower into the egg white, then press into the sugar. Use a fork to gently turn the flower so that all surfaces of the petals are covered. Lift out of sugar and lay on a screen or drying rack till completely dry. Apple and cherry blossoms can also be candied the same way.

A Soup, Salad and Savory Flower Garden

When I was growing up, one of the most special treats of early summer was my grandmother’s fried squash blossoms. Dipped in egg and flower, then fried in olive oil with garlic, the blossoms have a sweet, nutty flavor that is like nothing else in this world. Other garden flowers that are delicious in soups and salads include:

Borage – Like the leaves, borage flowers are delicious in salads and cold soups. They have a cool, cucumber like taste that translates well from flower garden to kitchen table.

Carnations – The flavor is as spicy as the scent. Carefully separate the petals from the bitter white of the flower’s base and sprinkle in salads for a surprising touch of color and spice.

Daylilies – Like squash blossoms, day lilies have a mildly sweet, nutty flavor that many people think varies by color. Dredged in flour and dipped in egg, fried daylilies are a succulent vegetable.

Those are just a small sampling of the many edible uses of flowers from your garden. If you’re interested in learning more, you’ll find excellent recipes and information on edible flowers at a number of web sites on the internet. DO be careful in your taste-testing. If you’re not certain that a flower is edible do NOT eat it.

About the author: This article courtesy of <A HREF=http://www.gardening-answers.com>http://www.gardening-answer s.com</A>

Planning A Container Water Gardens For Any Yard

Author: Ryan Larson

Article: I have an admission to make. I’m a natural born swamp-child. To me, there are few things in this world more beautiful than the marshy edges where pond meets woods and creates the perfect growing environment for cattails, water-lilies, lotus, cabomba and lush green ferns.

Alas, it has been my misfortune to live in the middle of the city, in rented apartments with postage stamps for yards. For years, I lusted after large, spacious backyards with room to dig your own pond. I read articles on building water gardens, koi ponds, and backyard fountains and sighed with envy. Then I discovered a simple fact – all it takes to create a water garden is a sunny spot that’s big enough for a pot of water.

It’s no more difficult to grow a water garden in a container than it is to grow any other container gardens. If you have a sunny spot – at the very least 6 hours of full sun daily throughout the summer – you can create a water garden. Your water garden can be as simple as a large tub with a few submerged plants, or as elaborate as several arranged container gardens with rocks and a fountain powered by a circulating pump. If you’d like to try your hand at creating a simple container water garden, you’ll find everything you need at a local home supply store like Home Depot.

Planning a Container Water Garden Location is the single most important factor in planning your water garden. Your space can be as small as a single square yard, but it MUST receive plenty of sun throughout the day. Think twice about locating a water garden of any sort beneath an overhanging tree. The leaves that fall will decay in the water and can foul it. If you’re building an actual pond, or using a large container like a swimming pool, check local ordinances regarding safety.

The plants that you choose should be suited to the container that you’re using. Choose plants that are hardy for your planting zone. There are four basic kinds of water plants:

Floating water plants – like water hyacinth and cabomba – require no planting at all. They float on the surface of the water with their roots trailing to absorb nutrients.

Surface Plants – like water lilies, lotus and floating yellow heart rooted in the pond’s bottom (or in this case, in a submerged pot), and put out leaves on long stems to float on the surface of the water.

Submerged plants – grow completely underwater, and seldom show their leaves above the surface. They help maintain the balance of nitrogen and other nutrients, and will require thinning to keep them in check.

Marginal or Bog plants – grow at the edges of ponds in the wild. They like to keep their feet wet, so to speak – with their roots and lower parts of their stems underwater. Dwarf cattails, black taro and sweet flag are examples of marginal plants.

When choosing plants for your container water garden, keep in mind the size of your container. Don’t overcrowd your garden – the rule of thumb is that your plants should cover no more than 2/3 of the surface of the water.

About the author: This article courtesy of <A HREF=http://www.florists-guide.net>http://www.florists-guide.net< /A>

Fall Garden Planning - Garden plans for next spring and ordering by mail

Author: Jill Dow

Article: It's August, the weather has cooled a bit here and the summer monsoons where I live in New Mexico have begun. The kids are starting back to school and I feel the onset of fall. I'm getting that garden planning itch again! It happens 2-3 times a year... This time, it's time to start ordering bulbs and perennials for fall planting. I'm always planning how my garden will look better next season and I suppose most of you do the same. Fall is the perfect time to plant for established growth next spring!

Take a good look at your garden now and think about areas you need to fill in. Do you need late season color, early spring blooms? Are there bare spots or places where plants like poppies or tulips go dormant and you need a filler to keep your garden alive with color? I find the best time for next years planning is in the fall when bloom time and plant combinations are fresh in my mind.

You may be disappointed with a plant combination you chose last season. Fall is the perfect time to rearrange. Get rid of overgrown plants and revive areas with new color or foliage combinations. Think about areas in your bulb or perennial garden you want to develop. What size, shape and bloom color do you need? Plant them this fall and watch your pans come to fruition come spring.

Shrubs and trees do take years to mature and fill their place. You can get a jump start by planting them this fall. When spring arrives they'll be much more hardy and will require less babying.

Fall is the perfect time to mail order bulbs, perrenials, shrubs, hedges and trees. We're winding down the season and if you're anything like me you're just not ready to quit quite yet. Sure there's clean up to be done, but I find more planting helps to finish those mundane cxhores. As I clean out I plant new!

<b>Ordering online or by mail</b>

Ordering plants online can be a bit scary. How are the plants shipped? Will they be good quality? Will they arrive at the right time and will I be prepared to plant them then?

Fear not! I've ordered in fall for years and have had tremendous results!

<b>Plant Quality and Guarantees</b>

Nurseries do differ in what and how they ship so make sure you do some research, but almost all reputable mail order nurseries do guarantee their plants to grow or your money back. I've never had trouble collecting on that promise and I have used it a time or two for certain plants. I also admit, a bit grudgingly as a then new gardener, that I should never have ordered those specific plants for my climate. Nevertheless the nursery did stand behind it's guarantee.

<b>How Plants Are Shipped</b>

Some plants will be shipped bare root, others as potted plants. This depends on the plant variety and I've actually found preference to bare root plants. They do look dead when they arrive (they are actually dormant), but I assure you that unless they have visible signs of disease like rot they'll thrive come spring.

*Note - If you do get any plants that look like the crown has rotted either ship them back immediately or just phone the nursery and they'll ship out new ones.

<b>When to Plant</b>

While you never know exactly when your plants will arrive, they are shipped to you at the proper planting time for your gardening zone. If plants arrive and it's not convenient to plant immediately just make sure you follow the directions included in your shipment for keeping your plants viable until you can plant them. If you've planned ahead you will know where they go and it'll take you little time to get them in the ground. A Saturday afternoon will usually give you ample time to get this done.

Keep in mind these companies have been in business for years and years and have shipped bare root and potted plants for eons. They do know what they're doing and most of them do it very well. They'd be out of business if they couldn't fulfill your planting requirements.

<b>Gardening Budgets and Selection</b>

You can't beat the cost and selection of ordering by mail! Most mail order companies offer plant varieties you'll never find anywhere else. The selections seem endless and I've been amazed what I can grow in New Mexico. Take advantage of fall specials and free shipping and you get a double bang for you buck. For about half of what I spend on a trip to the garden center on a single spring garden binge, I can have more variety and many more plants shipped to me at home.

<b>Get on the Mailing Lists</b>

Make sure you're on the mailing list for the following nurseries at least! You'll get a catologue several times a year. Take it into the garden with you,look around and plan accordingly. Then hop online and place an order or order by mail, but use the online resources for their help with plant combinations and companion planting. They offer great suggestions you may not have thought of before. Remember - pictures will help any gardener no matter how experienced.

About the author: To order catalogues and find this seasons BEST garden specials visit my <a href=""http://www.bulbandseed.com"">garden resource center</a> - My website is at <a href=""http://www.bulbandseed.com"">http://www.bulbandseed.com

Poor Man's Concrete

Author: Liz Norman

Article: Poor Man’s Concrete (c)2005

If you are looking for a way to build a “concrete” patio or walkway and can’t afford the cost using the traditional costly materials, here is an alternative method that works very well in a mild climate –meaning no freezing weather:

Using pressure treated 2x4’s, build a frame approx. 3’-4’ wide and 8’ long. If the area you want to cover is longer than 8’, build an additional frame to cover the length of your project.

If your project is wider than 4’, repeat the above until you have the designated area completely framed in 4’ wide sections.

Level the frame at a slight slant by hard packing dirt under it. This slant allows for water run-off.

Ready to begin preparing the “concrete” at a leisurely pace? Here is what you will need:

·Enough “drive-way” gravel to fill the frame(s). ·Approx. 4-5 bags of regular cement for each 4’x8’ section. ·A flat concrete finishing trowel

·A broom, shovel and wheelbarrow

·A hose with a nozzle that sprays a fine mist

·An old 2’x4 at least 6’ long

1.Starting with your first 4’ wide frame, fill it with gravel. Now level the gravel by running the old 2’x 4’ across the frame.

2. Next, sprinkle the cement as evenly as possible over the leveled gravel. Then use the broom to smooth out the dry cement.

3.Thoroughly mist the dry cement with water. Wait a few minutes for the cement to absorb the water. If it still looks dry, mist it again. 4.When you see the water rising to the top, take the trowel and work the cement by patting it down and smoothing it out, just like real “concrete” finishing. Use ½ circle and patting motions in each direction.

When you are satisfied with the appearance, move on to the next frame and repeat the above. 5.Keep your project well-misted with water over the next couple of days. And, don’t start this project on a hot, sunny day. The slower it takes cement to dry, the better.

You will find your “concrete” project will hold up very well to normal traffic for many years to come. Our 1,000 square ft. project even bared the weight of a slate pool table. And after 25 years of constant foot traffic, was as solid as the day we completed our own “poor man’s concrete” project.

Providing you don’t drive a vehicle over it, yours should too!

About the author:

Liz Norman is a freelance writer with a special interest in helping those on limited budgets achieve their goals.

Looking for <A href=""http://lwvf.com/concrete"" target=blank>additional concrete resources?</A> </P></DIV>

A Garden To Attract Hummingbirds

Author: John Sanderson

Article: “Mommy, come see! There are fairies in the garden!”

And so they might have been to the eyes of a five year old who grew up on tales of pixies, elves and fairies. The magical visitor this time, though, was a ruby-throated hummingbird. Hummingbirds have a unique ability to hover in one place by rapidly fluttering their tiny wings which may truly have made them the ‘fairies’ that many people saw hovering around brightly colored flowers.

It’s not difficult to create a garden that will attract hummingbirds, but if you’d like to build a habitat in which they will happily nest and live throughout the northern summer, you need to provide them with more than a sugar-water feeder and a plant or two. An active hummingbird garden doesn’t need to be large, but it will have all of the following key ingredients to attract and keep the attention of nature’s fairies.

Choose nectar producing plants that bloom at different times throughout the spring, summer and autumn.

Flowers are, of course, the key ingredient in attracting hummingbirds to your garden. The tiny birds feed on nectar that is produced by flowers, and seem particularly attracted to plants with trumpet or tubular bright red and orange flowers. Among their particular favorites, though, are rhododendrons, azaleas and rose of Sharon bushes, so the red trumpet isn’t a hard and fast rule. For northern gardens that attract the ruby-throated hummingbird, choose from the list of plants below, making sure that you choose plants that flower at different times during the blooming season to provide food for them throughout the spring, summer and fall.

Spring Bloomers Azaleas, rhododendrons and rose of Sharon bushes make a great ‘background’ for hummingbird gardens. They bloom early in the spring and continue blooming through the early summer. Pink and bright red varieties are favored, but hummingbirds love ALL rose of Sharon varieties.

Summer Bloomers Bleeding hearts and red mountain columbine bloom in the early summer, as do petunias, morning glories, trumpet vines, trumpet honeysuckle, and impatiens, all of which attract hummingbirds. An expanse of shade-dappled impatiens is a powerful attraction for hummingbirds, who are ‘sight’ hunters, finding their feeding grounds by sight.

Autumn Bloomers Butterfly bush, day lilies, garden phlox, bee-balm and impatiens all will keep hummingbirds returning through the autumn and attract late migrators.

Provide a source of water in the hummingbird garden. Unlike larger birds, hummingbirds will seldom take advantage of a bird bath or bowl of water. Instead, they relish cool mists. A garden hose with a misting attachment or a small fountain that can be adjusted to a fine mist will keep them happy.

Create vertical space for hummingbirds to perch and nest in your garden.

Hummingbirds need shelter from predators and small branches for perching and resting (yes, yes, they do perch sometimes!). By choosing a few taller bushes or trees, you can provide both.

A few strategically placed hummingbird feeders will offer an easy treat in your hummingbird garden.

There are dozens of commercially designed hummingbird feeders designed to be attractive to the little wanderers. Choose feeders with bright red accents, and a capacity for about 8 ounces of sugar water. Rather than using one large feeder, place 2-4 of them around your garden, out of sight of each other if possible. Hummingbirds are notoriously territorial. By providing several ‘private’ feeding stations, you’ll increase the number of hummingbirds that you attract.

About the author: This article courtesy of <A HREF=http://www.garden-furniture-guide.com>http://www.garden-furn iture-guide.com</A>