10 Stunning Garden Decorations!

Author: Linda Gray

Article: Whether you're playing games in the garden or preparing for winter bulbs, give a thought to decorating your outside space. There are lots of fun and interesting things you can do without spending tons of money...

<B>1. Wind-Chimes</B> - There are some beautiful wind chimes on the market, and you should be able to find some that suit your style and budget. However, you could go one step further and make your own. Study how they are made, and get the kids to join in! Wind chimes are soothing and very compatible with gardening, so position your chimes well.

They must be in at least a slight draught, which you should be able to find outside with ease. Also, they can scare the birds away from your fruit bushes. Hang them on the patio and in the vegetable garden.

<B>2. Lights and Lanterns</B> - For those smooth hot summer nights. Choose candles for calm nights and opt for lanterns if there's a breeze about. Solar powered lights are a good choice as there aren't any cables, batteries or plugs to worry about. They must be in sunlight during the day to re-charge though. Large garden candles will burn for many hours and are available in all sorts of aroma-therapeutic scents.

<B>3. Garden Furniture</B> - Invest in some comfy chairs for the garden. We don't spend half as much time as we should outside, simply because we don't feel comfortable. Look at unique ways of furnishing your garden. Do you have a couple of trees a hammock could be strung between? Or how about a park-type bench with comfy cushions set under the shade of the apple tree? Whatever the style or size of your garden, look for relaxing furniture so you can fully enjoy your outside space.

<B>4. Fake Flowers</B> - Well, hey, we don't all have mature gardens and fresh flowers blooming all year round! If you have to resort to a little 'deception' who cares if it looks good? Hang some pretty silk flowers on a wall, or low roof or even in a tree! If nothing else, you'll keep your visitors guessing :-)

<B>5. Colour it up</B> - If you still need a bit of colour around the place, get the kids involved. No, I don't mean let them loose with a tin of paint and brushes... what they could do is draw some great pictures of trees, flowers, animals etc, and you can pin them around the patio area or 'blu-tak' them to a tree or two. Remember to rescue them if it rains!

<B>6. Cut down on Big Toys</B> - Children's outdoor toys, such as swings, slides etc; can take up loads of room in the garden, and they're not always very attractive. Look for something a little less permanent. Maybe separate items you can load away in the shed at night, or go for something completely different and build a giant chess set. Or if you really feel creative, what about a tree-house? They can always go to the park for the swings!

<B>7. Containers</B> - Collect large pots and grow plants you can move around the garden, every day if you like! Grow herbs and flowers and position sweet smelling plants on the patio or round your seating area. Strawberries grow very well in containers as do other useful plants. Make sure the pots aren't too heavy for you to move, or invest in a garden trolley if they are. If you grow colour co-ordinated flowers, a wonderful display can be created by positioning your pots well.

<B>8. Wild Corner</B> - I know this may be hard if you like a neat and tidy garden, but leaving a wild patch can be very entertaining and visually very pleasing. Nettles and other wildflowers attract butterflies and bees, and it's often suprising how delicate and colourful wildflowers can be when allowed to grow in their own space. If you're still unsure, how about building a little fence around the area and making a wooden plaque declaring it a wildlife zone...well, it was just an idea!

<B>9. Water Features</B> - are becoming more and more popular and also more affordable. Create a water feature that will suit your garden. Try not to be persuaded by an over-enthusiastic sales assistant trying to sell you a system that will be far too big or even too small for your outside space. Do some research before you start. There could be a fair amount of physical work involved and you should arrange some strong arm help. You could go for a full waterfall and pond or perhaps a simple water feature on your patio.

<B>10. Rock Gardens</B> - Rock gardens can take on different themes and colour schemes throughout the year with a little careful planning. There is again some heavy physical work involved when you're putting together your rock garden but well worth it in the end. Make sure you can get to all areas for weeding, watering etc; Try out different rock plants and flowers until you feel happy with the overall view, and even then you can change it. Nothing's set in stone!

These are just a few ideas. Let your imagination free and decorate your outside space with love. Read through the Garden Decor and Garden Ideas pages on the Flower and Garden Tips website for more ideas and resources.

About the author: Decorate your home and garden with style! More ideas and places to visit can be found at Linda's website, Flower and Garden Tips. Drop in on the home and garden page and wander round from there - Bring a cuppa! <a href=""http://www.flower-and-garden-tips.com/homeandgarden.html"">H ome and Garden</a>

Tulip Bulbs - Fall is the Time to Prepare the Perfect Spring Flower Garden

Author: Linda Jenkinson

Article: When the air begins to get cooler, and the leaves start to fall from the trees, most people immediately think of storing the gardening supplies for the winter and getting ready to bundle up. But Wait! Before packing away your gardening equipment, don't forget to pick up some tulip bulbs to plant in your garden. Fall is the perfect time for planting tulip bulbs.

Tulip bulbs are easily the most recognizable bulb flower in the world today. Most people think first of a tulip, when they are asked to name a flower bulb. Tulips are easy to grow, and require very little care, which is one of the reasons that they are so popular.

There is a very large variety in the color selection of tulip bulbs. The colors of tulips typically follow the color trends that are generally popular. Right now, pastel tulips are extremely popular color choices. The most popular tulip color has always been, and remains to be red. However, red is followed closely by yellow as the second most popular color.

Of course, you can find tulips in a variety of color as there are over 3500 varieties of tulips. You can purchase traditional tulip bulbs as well as fancy bulbs, which have a feathered, frilly petal. You can find tulips in solid colors as well as striped petals, or variegated colors.

You can purchase tulip bulbs that are early bloomers, maturing early in the springtime, or you can find tulips that will bloom later. So you can plan your bulb flowers so that you will consistently have flower blooms all spring, until your perennials begin blooming. Tulips come in tall varieties as well as shorter varieties, this can be important when you are planning a garden design. As well, you will have a choice between single blooming tulips and double bloomers.

With so much variety and selection, it is no doubt why tulip bulbs are such popular flowers. Coupled with the excellent selection and the ease of care and planting for tulips, they make an excellent addition to any garden design.

About the author: Linda is author of the <a href=""http://www.gardening-guides.com/related-articles/flower-gar dening/related-flower-gardening.htm""> Tulip and Bulb Flowers </a>section of <a href=""http://www.gardening-guides.com""> Gardening-Guides.com</a> Visit us for more information on flower bulbs and spring gardening

The Pollen-Trapping Power of a Lawn

Author: Tom Ogren

Article: The Pollen-Trapping Power of a Lawn

Thomas Leo Ogren

Think twice before you give up your lawn.

Lawns are often blamed for causing allergies but the right lawn is actually a powerful allergy suppressor. The best lawn grasses either do not bloom at all or will not bloom (and produce pollen) if they are regularly mowed. What is little understood or appreciated is that a thick lawn is a very effective pollen trap. Pollen blows about and when it lands on smooth surfaces (cars, cement, roofs, decks, large leaves) it doesn't often stay there for long. The next good breeze to come along picks the pollen up and gets it back into the air.

However, consider what happens when airborne pollen lands on a well-maintained lawn. The lawn is composed of millions of long, slim leaves and the pollen grains fall down between these leaves. When it rains or when the lawn is sprinkled, the pollen grains are pushed further downward, down to the ground level. There the pollen is trapped and remains. An average sized lawn at an ordinary house will trap and remove hundreds of millions of grains of pollen each season. A strong growing lawn will trap and remove far more pollen than it will ever produce itself.

To be fair here, a few types of lawns, such as ordinary common Bermuda grass lawns, can be large producers of allergenic pollen. However, common Bermuda produces much more pollen when it is stressed. When a Bermuda grass lawn is kept well fertilized, regularly mowed, and well watered, even it will produce little pollen.

By the way, there are many wonderful new kinds of Bermuda grass that don't ever produce any pollen. There are also types of other grasses that are separate-sexed, and with these the female lawns are also pollen-free. The bottom line here is this: a good lawn is a thing of beauty; it adds considerably to the quality of the landscape and to the actual property value. A healthy lawn is the safest place for our children to play and where they like to play the most. Our dogs and cats also appreciate a nice lawn. A lawn is an excellent area for trapping rainwater from storms. Rain that falls on a lawn will soak in, not run off to the gutters.

A lush green lawn has powerful cooling qualities and will cut our cooling costs in the heat of the summer. A well-kept lawn will not produce pollen and it will trap millions of grains of allergenic pollen from nearby trees and shrubs. A good lawn is a marvelous thing!

Certain types of lawn mowers may kick up pollen that does land on a lawn. A rear-bagging mower will trap and bag pollen along with the grass clippings. A well-maintained mulching mower will deposit pollen back down below the mower and then it will work its way downward with irrigation. A side-discharge mower, used without a bagger, may kick up some loose pollen and this is not recommended. Push reel mowers bring up little pollen and most power reel mowers are also pollen-safe.

There are some allergenic people though who will react negatively to volatile organic compounds that are released when the blades of grass are cut. People who experience this problem would be wise to get someone else to do the actual mowing.

A few types of grasses are somewhat stiff and prickly and less pleasant to lie on. These grasses may irritate the skin of sensitive people. Bahia grass and some of the types of zoysia grass will cause this itchiness.

Leaf blowers do in fact kick up a good deal of pollen that may be lying about on cement. If you have allergies it is a good idea to wear a facemask when using a leaf blower. Do not blow towards the direction of your house either. It is always a good idea to close the windows in your house too, before using a leaf blower. Pollen is tiny and can easily pass right through the tightest window screens.

Lastly, I want to re-emphasize that the right lawn is a very effective pollen trap. Some years ago I measured this by sprinkling cedar pollen on different surfaces and then testing to see how much of this pollen became airborne. Of all the surfaces we tested (car roofs, shingles, cement, bricks, different ground cover plants, gravel) none was nearly as effective at capturing incoming pollen as a thick lawn.

About the author: Thomas Leo Ogren is the author of five published books including Allergy-Free Gardening, and Safe Sex in the Garden. He does consulting on landscape plants and allergies for the American Lung Association, county asthma coalitions, hospitals, allergists, individuals, and landscape and nursery associations. His most recent book, published by AOL Time Warner Books, is called, What the Experts May NOT Tell You About: Growing the Perfect Lawn.

Is It Really Teak Wood? Caveat Emptor! (Part One)

Author: Michael Ochoa

Article: This article contains a plethora of information and would be difficult to take in all at once. For that reason, I have broken this article into two parts.

""Caveat Emptor"" is Latin for ""Let the buyer beware"".

If you have Teak wood outdoor furniture, there is very little you will need to do be ready for spring and summer gatherings to begin. If you purchased ""teak oiled"" or ""better than teak wood"" outdoor furniture, you may be in for a big surprise.

There are several outlets that are selling wood outdoor furniture using phrases like, ""Teak oiled wood furniture"". Teak oiled means just that: the wood that the furniture is made from has been oiled with Teak oil. Period. It is not Teak wood as many of us who may have purchased it would have hoped to believe.

Part of the problem is that we are all looking for the ""deal"". We want to pay as little as possible for high quality items so badly that we often overlook or don't look at all at what we are actually getting for our money.

What does ""Teak like"" furniture mean? Does that mean that the wood has a high silica content like Teak wood? Does it mean that the wood will weather all the natural elements and last 75-100 years left outdoors, like Teak wood will? What exactly does it mean?

Look at this verbiage on any number of websites or in any number of stores and you will see it. Some of these outdoor wood furniture pieces that are the ""GREAT DEALS"" are made from a wood called Nyatoh, not Teak. It is sold as an exotic hardwood and many outlets and advertisers call it a wood which wears and behaves like teak? Go on to E-Bay and you will find sellers who are advertising it as ""stronger than teak wood"". In fact, that is not true.

Who are these marketers trying to kid? Guess what, they are trying to kid us all. Marketers are very good at putting spins on things to make us, the buying public, think one thing, and because we did not pay attention, it turns out to be something completely different.

Where are many of the consumers getting these great deals and purchasing their ""Teak like"" outdoor furniture? It is reported that many of these wood outdoor furniture sets are being purchased from big chain department stores located in each and every town across the United States, as well as local grocery and drugstores, and on the internet.

Take a look at Nyatoh versus Teak in one area of wood measurement: Durability. Nyatoh wood is generally rated as Class 3, nondurable to moderately durable, and has a low resistance to termite attack. Its sapwood is liable to powder-post beetle attack. Other woods more familiar to us with this similar durability rating are: American Cherry: African mahogany: Japanese Oak: Southern Pine: American Walnut: and Western Red Cedar, just to name a few.

Teak woods durability is classified as Class 1, Very Durable. Woods in this class include Ebony: Iroka: Makore: and Opepe to name a few. And this is just one area of measurement we are looking at, (just as a side note, class 2, which is Durable, contains familiar woods like American Oak: Balau: Sweet Chestnut: Cedar: Ekki: and Karri woods to name a few).

Nyatoh wood is protected with oil. Once treated, this wood should consistently be treated each year to maintain some protection from the elements. When it comes to Nyatoh wood, the consumer must pay particular attention to sufficiently oiling the ""joints"" where the protection is needed most. If water gets trapped in the joints of this wood, wood rot will begin.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with Nyatoh wood at all. It is being fashioned in very similar styles of other high quality outdoor furniture. If you are looking for the deal, make this purchase. Just be aware of what it is you are really buying. It is NOT Teak wood. You will need to maintain it differently than you would Teak wood and you may need to replace it more frequently just as you have your previous outdoor patio furniture.

About the author: Michael Ochoa operates <a href=""http://www.macs-teakfurniture.com"">Macs Teak Furniture</a> website. This website specializes in sales of<a href=""http://www.macs-teakfurniture.com""> Quality Teak Outdoor Patio Furniture</a> and provides free shipping anywhere in the United States.

Container Gardening Indoors and Outdoors

Author: Mary Hanna

Article: Container Gardening Indoors and Outdoors By Mary Hanna Copyright 2005

For years people have been gardening in containers, mostly because they lacked space. For some it was because they lived in climates that wouldn't allow them to grow year round. Container gardens afford you the option of planting outside until the cold forces the container inside, next to a sunny window.

Most container gardens were planted by people that lived in apartments but still wanted the addition of color and the feeling of accomplishment when seeing their plants grow. Big, beautiful showy flowers have a tranquil effect that soothes you at the end of a long day. Container gardening need not be limited to apartment gardening, everyone should have their own. Most certainly you don't have to stick to flowers in containers. You can grow vegetables and herbs in pots.

By adding garden pots it allows you to put spots of color around green shrubs or trees to brighten any corner of your yard. Placing containers filled with your favorite flower adds loads of appeal to a walkway or paved patio. The fun part of that is you can rotate the pots to different locations adding a new looks or colors with every move. Putting autumnal colored Mums in pots or spring tulips in a container allows you to landscape by season keeping your garden bright and interesting.

Your container can become a mini garden. For example when we lived in Pennsylvania our front yard screened us from the road with 10 feet tall evergreens. Although it was good for privacy, it made it very hard for guests to find our house. To fix this problem I purchased a half of a whisky barrel painted our name and street number on it and placed on the lawn at the end of the driveway. Then I filled it with some organic matter, planted bright red geraniums in the center and placed trailing ivy along the outer edges. Not only did it help our friends find us but the whole neighborhood used it when giving directions to their friends and family. Everyone would come up to us and say, ""Never move that pot of flowers, it's our favorite landmark.""

Don't limit yourself to a barrel, anything can be used, a watering can, an urn or big boldly colored ceramic pots, even a wheelbarrow. Use your imagination when it comes to the containers you will plant. A friend of mine would go to the Italian restaurants around town and ask them for their used large olive oil cans. She'd take them home and plant a bunch of mini gardens. This created an interesting and colorful spot unlike any in the neighborhood. She would plant herbs in some of them so this little garden had two uses.

For container gardening use a fast draining potting soil mixed with a little coarse sand. I always use pots with holes in the bottom to ensure good drainage. You may know exactly how much to water the plant but if you have a rainy spell it could be the demise of the mini garden that has no drainage system. Fertilize well and often, nutrients in a container can leech out.

Repotting will be necessary as the plants will become root bound as they thrive. Just go to the next size container and plant a new flower or herb in the original pot.

Go to your garden nursery center and look thru the selections. Choose plants that will harmonize and colors that go well together. Container Gardening is fun and easy and a great way to show off your handiwork.

About the author: Mary Hanna is an aspiring herbalist who lives full time in Central Florida which allows her to garden and grow flowers, vegetables and herbs inside and outside year round.

Contact: mary@gardeninglandscapingtips.com or visit her garden site http://www.gardeninglandscapingtips.com

Growing and Caring for Rhododendrons and Azaleas

Author: Michael J. McGroarty

Article: You are welcome to use this article on your website or in your newsletter as long as you reprint it as is, including the contact information at the end. Website URLs must be active links. You are welcome to use this article with an affiliate link, http://www.freeplants.com/resellers.htm

Azaleas can be either evergreen or deciduous. Deciduous Azaleas are known as Mollis or Exbury Azaleas. They bloom in the early spring with vivid orange and yellow colors. They can be grown from seed if the seeds are collected in the fall and sown on top of moist peat at about 70 degrees F.

  Evergreen Azaleas are known as broad leaf evergreens because they do not have needles. They bloom later in the spring, and are usually propagated in the fall over bottom heat, discussed in detail at http://www.freeplants.com Rhododendrons are also broad leaf evergreens and are also propagated over bottom heat in early winter.

  The best time to prune Rhododendrons and Azaleas is in the spring right after they bloom. These plants start setting next year's flower buds over the summer, and late pruning will cost you some blooms next year, so get them pruned as soon as they finish blooming. It's also a good idea to pick off the spent blooms so the plants don't expel a lot of energy making seeds, unless of course you'd like to grow them from seed. But keep in mind that they don't come true from seed.

  Seeds from a red Rhododendron are likely to flower pale lavender. Cuttings ensure a duplicate of the parent plant. How do you prune Rhododendrons and what does pinching a Rhododendron mean? These are frequently asked questions.

  Pinching is a low impact form of pruning that is very effective for creating nice, tight full plants when you are growing small plants from seeds or cuttings. Typically a Rhododendron forms a single new bud at the tip of each branch. This new bud will develop into another new branch, another bud will form and the process will continue. If left alone this will produce a very lanky plant with a lot of space between the branches, forming a very unattractive plant.

  So if you are starting with a plant that is nothing more than a rooted cutting all you have to do is pinch off this new growth bud as soon as it is about 3/8"" long. Just grab it between your fingers and snap it completely off. When you do this the plant usually responds by replacing that single bud with two, three, or even four new buds in a cluster around the bud that you pinched off. Each one of these buds will develop into branches and eventually a single bud will appear at the tip of each of these branches, and of course you should come along and pinch each one of those off, forcing the plant to produce multiple buds at the end of each of these branches.

  The more often you pinch off these single buds, the more branches the plant will form, making a nice, tight, full plant. This is especially helpful with young plants such as rooted cuttings or young seedlings.

  But what about larger plants, how do I prune them? I prune mine with hedge shears!!! I just have at it and trim them like I would a Taxus or a Juniper, and guess what? The result is a very tight compact plant loaded with beautiful flowers. My Rhododendrons are so tightly branched that you cannot see through them, and that is the result of vigorous pruning with hedge shears. Sure you can use hand shears, and you'll have a nicer plant because of it, but I just use the hedge shears because that's the tool that I happen to have in my hand as I am going by.

  Keeping Rhododendrons and Azaleas healthy and happy is as simple as understanding what they like. First of all, they like to grow in a climate that suits their tastes. Many varieties of both don't like it in the north, and to prove the point they will up and die as soon as extreme cold weather hits. Buy plants that are known to be hardy in your area. 

Here in zone 5 (northern Ohio) the following Azaleas seem to do well: Hino Crimson (red), Stewartstonia (red), Herbert (lavender), Cascade (white), Delaware Valley (white), and Rosebud (pink). Hardy Rhododendrons include Roseum Elegans (pinkish lavender), English Roseum (pinkish lavender), Nova Zembla (red), Lee's Dark Purple, Chinoides (white), and Cunningham's (white).

  How should you fertilize Rhododendrons and Azaleas? These broadleaf evergreens are laid back and like to take it slow and easy. Do not fertilize them with quick release nitrogen fertilizers, it could kill them. Instead give them an organic snack, like Millorganite or well rotted cow manure or compost. Millorganite is an organic fertilizer made of granulated sewage sludge.

  No, it doesn't smell any worse than other fertilizers, and plants like it because it is plant and soil friendly. It won't burn the plants, and it actually reactivates the micro-organisms in the soil. That's a good thing. Most full service garden centers carry Millorganite.

  A long time ago somebody let the word out that Rhododendrons are acid loving plants, and people are always asking me if I think their struggling Rhododendron needs more acid. The answer is no. Your struggling Rhododendron probably needs a great big gulp of oxygen around its root system.

  Rhododendrons do not like wet feet. They don't even like high humidity let alone wet soil around their roots. They like to be high and dry, and like an unobstructed flow of oxygen to their roots. You can accomplish this by planting them in a bed raised at least 10"" with good rich topsoil. They will be smiling from branch to branch.

  A few years back my friend Larry and I had several hundred small Rhododendrons that we were going to grow on to larger plants. We planted most of them in Larry's backyard which is fairly good soil, but a little sticky. We didn't have room for all of them so we planted the last 105 down the road from my house in a field we were renting. (Never heard of anybody renting a field? You should get out more.)

  This location had absolutely no water for irrigating and the soil was very dry and rocky. Other plants at that location often struggled during the dog days of summer due to the lack of water, but those Rhododendrons were as happy as pigs in mud. They outgrew the ones at Larry's house by twice the rate and we sold them years earlier than the others. 

My point? Rhododendrons don't like wet feet. They do well in the shade, but contrary to popular belief they do even better in full sunlight.

Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up for his excellent gardening newsletter.  Article provided by http://gardening-articles.com

About the author: Michael J. McGroarty has more than 30 years experience in the landscape gardening/nursery industry. He's spent the better part of his life on his hands and knees in the dirt working with plants and his hands-on experience allows Mike to write in a manner than many gardeners find to be helpful and beneficial.

How to Grow Japanese Red Maples from Seed

Author: Michael J. McGroarty

Article: You are welcome to use this article on your website or in your newsletter as long as you reprint it as is, including the contact information at the end. Website URLs must be active links. You are welcome to use this article with an affiliate link, http://www.freeplants.com/resellers.htm

Most Japanese Maple seeds ripen in the fall. Watch the tree and wait for the seeds to turn brown. The seeds are ready to be harvested when they are brown and can be easily removed from the tree.

  The seeds are attached to a wing, it's best to break the wing off before storing or planting the seeds. Japanese Maple seeds have a very hard outer coating as do many ornamental plants. Under natural conditions the seeds would have to be on the ground for almost two years before they would germinate. All that happens the first winter is the moisture softens the hard outer shell, and the second winter germination is beginning to take place.

  In order for all of this to happen in the proper sequence so the seedlings actually sprout at a time of the year when freezing temperatures or hot summer sun doesn't kill them, takes a tremendous amount of luck.

  You can improve the odds by controlling some of these conditions, and shorten the cycle. Once you have picked the seeds and removed the wing just place them in a paper bag and store them in a cool dry place until you are ready for them. You don't want to plant your seeds out in the spring until the danger of frost has past. Here in the north May 15th is a safe bet.

  If May 15th is your target date you should count backwards on the calendar 100 days. That will take you to about February 5th if my math is correct. On or about the 100th day prior to your target planting date, take the seeds and place them in a Styrofoam cup or other container that will withstand some hot water. Draw warm to hot water from your kitchen faucet and pour it over the seeds. Most of the seeds will float, just leave them in the water overnight as the water cools down. 24 hours later most of the seeds will have settled to the bottom of the cup.

    Drain off the water. Place the seeds in a plastic bag with a mixture of sand and peat or other suitable growing mix. Even light potting soil will work. The peat or soil should be moist, but not soaking wet. Poke some holes in the bag so there is some air circulation, and place the bag in your refrigerator for a period of 100 days.

  After 100 days you can plant the seeds outside. If you have timed it correctly, you should be at or close to your target planting date.

  To plant the seeds just sow them on top of a bed of well drained topsoil or sterilized potting soil, and cover with approximately 3/8"" of soil. Water them thoroughly, but allow the soil to dry out completely before watering thoroughly again. If you water them frequently, not only do you stand a chance of the seeds rotting from being too wet, but you will also keep them cool, which will slow down the germination process.

  Once they start to germinate provide about 50% shade to keep the sun from burning them. Snow fence suspended about 30"" above the bed will provide about 50% shade. Japanese Maples will tolerate some shade so it isn't too important to transplant them too quickly. Depending on how close together they are, you might be able to leave them in the same bed for one or two growing seasons. Don't transplant until they are completely dormant.

Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up for his excellent gardening newsletter.  Article provided by http://gardening-articles.com

About the author: Michael J. McGroarty has more than 30 years experience in the landscape gardening/nursery industry. He's spent the better part of his life on his hands and knees in the dirt working with plants and his hands-on experience allows Mike to write in a manner than many gardeners find to be helpful and beneficial.

Miniature Roses Have Many Uses

Author: Dana Noonan

Article: Among the most charming and delightful of plants, miniature roses come in the same multitude of colors and varieties as their full size cousins. They're perfect for container gardens, but do just as well planted in the ground. Their small buds and blooms are beautiful in corsages and arrangements, tucked into a small vase on a tray or picked and carefully dried in potpourri.

While small in size, most miniatures are highly scented, and just a few small bushes can perfume the air in the entire garden. That, and the ease of growing the hardy little perennials has made them increasingly popular with home gardeners. Their versatility makes them as at home tumbling over a trellis to create a romantic, rose covered gazebo as they are in a neatly trained border along the side of a driveway.

Miniature roses are, by definition, compact bushes with abundant blooms. A single miniature rose bush can have hundreds of flowers. There are a number of different varieties of miniatures, separated by size and growing behavior.

Micro-minis are particularly delightful, maturing at between 6 and 12 inches of height, with blooms as small as 1/4 inch across. They grow wonderfully in small pots, and are the perfect plant to lend a touch of romance to a sunny city balcony.

Climbing miniature roses, like Rainbow's Edge with showy orange and yellow flowers or the Red Cascade with its open, velvety red petals, can quickly cover an open frame or gazebo to create a rose covered trellis in one growing season.

Upright miniature roses, or standards, are tree roses that grow from 12-18 inches tall. A rose tree in full bloom is a delightful centerpiece accent in a low growing garden, or standing on its own in a container.

There are a number of miniature roses that trail, sending out runners with new growth and flowers. These make wonderful choices in a hanging basket, with drifts of flowers to cascade over the sides in a beautiful display of color. Best choices for hanging baskets include the aptly named Red Cascade and the ruffled pink Nostalgia.

Miniature roses are hardy bloomers that winter well even as far north as zone 4. They grow quickly, require little care outside of watering, and will reward you with dozens of blooms for very little effort.

Copyright 2005 Dana Noonan - <A HREF=""http://www.GardenSites.info.com"">www.GardenSites.info.com</ A>

About the author: About The Author: Dana is a seasoned web developer and webmaster. Find public rose gardens in the USA at http://www.GardenSites.info or more information about rose gardening at http://www.RoseGardening101.com.

Natural Science - Not Rocket Science

Author: Linda Gray

Article: Don't force yourself out of the most profitable hobby in the universe because you think it's too hard to learn ...It isn't! Gardening is fast becoming the world's number one hobby, and with all the latest 'alternative' information we have to hand, gardening as a natural science is fun to learn about and rewarding in the extreme...

Produce your own fruit and veg - cut the shopping trips.

Keep it organic!- be nice to the planet, and your body.

Stay fit and healthy with exercise and fresh air.

Spend quality family time in the outdoors.

Turbo boost your creative spirit

And if that isn't enough to be going on with, learn about plant-kind in all it's glory. From trees through to fungi, there are millions of plants to research, grow and eat- no chance of getting bored!

First you have to take your first step.

Start gardening, be a gardener, enjoy your garden.

Starting from scratch? Let your imagination run wild. Stand in the centre (-ish) of your garden and imagine..close your eyes if you like.

Don't hold back. Let your creative thoughts flow. How much can you do with your space? Don't imagine for one minute that a simple lawn will let you off the hook here. A lawn needs maintaining, and mowing regularly - for EVER..and it can get kind of boring to look at as well! How about creating

a butterfly patch

a wildflowers corner

a vegetable plot

a herb garden

a water feature

Then you will need a shed to store your tools. Where would that be best placed in your garden? Don't waste a sunny position with a garden structure. Sheds don't need to be in full sun to survive!

Is there enough space to place garden furniture? Rather than going for the table-and-four-chairs-on-patio style, can you place benches and small tables in semi-shady spots near the honeysuckle or round the herbs?

When you think you have a reasonable idea of all you want from your garden, take some notes and think about it for a while. Don't leap in too soon-more often than not you'll land up doing the same job twice. Browse through garden catalogs, take a little time and do a little planning.

But not for too long! Don't let the ideas wither into another was-gonna-do-one-day file.

If you have enough of a budget to buy your garden structures and furniture, do this first, and position them in your garden. Then create your flower beds, vegetable plots and wildlife patches around these structures.

If you don't have cash up front, don't worry. The things you need will come to you. For now, prepare the space as if you DID have the shed, or bench or whatever, and work around these areas.

Start all the patches and work on them as and when you can, or start one patch and get it finished before moving on to the next. How you work in your garden depends on a number of things...

size of land and budget

helping hands available

seasons and the weather

time slots and energy levels!

Treat gardening as an ongoing hobby rather than a project to be started and finished. Plants are growing life forms and will always be changing the shape and feel of your garden. Go with it where you can, and prune heavily where you have to!

Get the kids involved with quick-germinating seeds, and fast-growing plants. Many retailers offer special seed mixtures for kids. Pumpkins are great for getting the kids interested in gardening.

Learn about edible flowers and teach the children what can and can't be eaten - and why.

Don't let the grass grow under your feet. Get in on the action now. Turn off the TV, put your wellies on and leap into nature!

About the author: Begin at the begining... Decorate your outside space in your own style. Browse through the greenery at Flower and Garden tips and make your plans. <a href=""http://www.flower-and-garden-tips.com/gardendecor.html"">Gar den Decor</a>

The Many Uses of Fresh Herbs

Author: Mary Hanna

Article: The Many Uses of Fresh Herbs By Mary Hanna Copyright 2005

Herbs are fun and easy to grow. When harvested they make even the simplest meal seem like a gourmet delight. By using herbs in your cooking you can easily change the flavors of your recipes in many different ways, according to which herbs you add. Fresh herbs are great in breads, stews, soups or vegetables. Every time you add a different herb you have completely changed the taste.

If you are a beginner start slowly, add just a little at a time adjusting as you go along until you have it just right. You will see in most instances that an individual herb is associated with a particular food item. Basil is paired with tomatoes, Oregano with sauces, Rosemary with lamb and Chives with butter or cream cheese. Of course, none of them are limited to these items, but you will see them paired most often with that particular food. Use your imagination and experiment, experiment, experiment!

You can make herb vinegars for salad dressings, marinades, or soups. Herb oils are very useful in cooking whenever a recipe calls for it.

Fresh herbs as garnishes dress up any dish making it look truly spectacular. Lay individual sprigs of rosemary over broiled lamb chops. Chop fresh parsley and sprinkle it over the top of your potato salad. The combinations are endless and the outcome delicious.

Fresh herbs will keep in the refrigerator for several days but then you must freeze them. They can be frozen by laying them a paper towel and putting them in a plastic bag. Once they are frozen only use them in cooking not as garnishes. A friend of mine washes them, puts them an ice cube tray, covers them with water and then freezes them. When she needs them for soup, stews or sauces she just drops a cube in.

My favorite herbs to grow are basil, oregano, lemon balm, parsley and mint. Mint is great but be careful, mint can over run your garden. A tip here would be to bury an empty coffee can and plant the mint in it. The can prevents the mint from ""creeping"" all through your garden.

I love to make herb butters. Take a half of a cup of softened butter and mix in about 4 tablespoons of a fresh herb. Lay out a piece of saran wrap, place the butter in the middle roll the saran wrap up to form a ""log"" out of the butter. Put in the refrigerator and anytime you need a pat of butter just cut it off the ""log"". (Hints for ""log"" butter: potatoes, bread, steaks, noodles or any kind of sauce).

A fresh herb in any salad dressing really makes it sparkle. You can use any herb or a combination, be creative.

I learned a trick a long time ago using basil, lemon and avocados to create and instant natural face mask. Put a big handful of basil in a blender and run it on high. Once the basil has been pulverized, throw in a half of an avocado and a large teaspoon of lemon juice, mix until smooth. Wash your face, pat it dry and gently rub the avocado mixture on. Leave it on as long as you like, then use warm water to it wash off.

These are just a few ways you can use fresh herbs from your garden. I am sure you will come up with many more. Happy planting.

About the author: Mary Hanna is an aspiring herbalist who lives in Central Florida. This allows her to grow gardens inside and outside year round. She has published other articles on Gardening and Cooking. For more information on gardening go to http://www.gardeninglandscapingtips.com, for more information on cooking go to http://www.gourmetchefathome.com or contact her at mhanna@gardeninglandscapingtips.com

Pruning Weeping Cherry Trees and Other Grafted and Budded Ornamentals

Author: Michael J. McGroarty

Article:   You are welcome to use this article on your website or in your newsletter as long as you reprint it as is, including the contact information at the end. Website URLs must be active links. You are welcome to use this article with an affiliate link, http://www.freeplants.com/resellers.htm  

What do the terms grafting and budding mean?

  Budding is a form of grafting. Grafting is the art of attaching a piece of one plant to another plant, creating a new plant. Grafting is usually done because the desired plant is extremely difficult if not impossible to propagate through other means. Dogwoods, for example, are easily grown from seed, however, it is next to impossible to grow a Pink Dogwood from seed. The seeds from a Pink Dogwood will produce seedlings that are likely to flower white.

  The most common method for producing Pink Dogwood trees is to remove a single bud from a Pink Dogwood tree and slip it under the bark of a White Dogwood seedling. This process is known as budding, and the seedling is known as the rootstock. This is usually done during the late summer months when the bark of the White Dogwood seedling can be easily separated from the tree, and the seedling is about 1/4"" in diameter.

  A very small ""T"" shaped cut is made in the bark only, and the bud is slipped in the slot. The actual bud itself is allowed to poke out through the opening and then the wound is wrapped with a rubber band both above and below the bud. By the following spring the bud will have grafted itself to the seedling, at which time the seedling is cut off just above the Pink Dogwood bud, and the bud then grows into a Pink Dogwood tree.

  Budding is usually done at ground level, and often times the rootstock will send up shoots from below the bud union. These shoots, often called suckers, should be removed as soon as they appear because they are from the rootstock and are not the same variety as the rest of the plant. Flowering Crabapples are also budded and are notorious for producing suckers. When removing these suckers don't just clip them off at ground level with pruning shears, they will just grow back. Pull back the soil or mulch and remove them from the tree completely at the point where they emerge from the stem.

  Most people clip them off a couple of inches from the ground, and then they grow back with multiple shoots. This drives me crazy! Get down as low as you can and remove them completely and you will keep them under control. On older trees that have been improperly pruned for years I take a digging spade and literally attack these suckers hacking them away from the stem. Sure this does a little damage to the stem of the tree, but when a plant is let go like that I figure it's a do or die situation. The trees always survive and thrive.

  Other plants are grafted up high to create a weeping effect. One of the most popular trees that is grafted up high is the top graft Weeping Cherry. In this case the seedling is allowed to grow to a height of 5', then the weeping variety is grafted on to the rootstock at a height of about 5'. This creates an umbrella type effect. In this case the graft union is 5' off the ground, therefore anything that grows from the stem below that graft union must be removed.

  Many people don't understand this and before they know it they have a branch 2"" in diameter growing up through the weeping canopy of their tree. Before you know it there are several branches growing upright through the canopy and the effect of the plant is completely ruined.

  At my website, http://gardening-articles.com I've got a couple of photos that show exactly what I'm talking about in this article.  You can clearly see the weeping effect that the Weeping Cherry tree is supposed to have, but then up through the middle come these branches that are no more than just suckers from the stem, or the rootstock as it is known in the nursery industry.

Looking closely at the photos you can see that these suckers originate from below the graft union.  This problem could have been prevented if someone had just picked off these buds when they first emerged on the stem of the tree.  Then they would have never developed into branches.

This tree can still be saved, but there will be a large scar on the stem when the upright branches are pruned off.  But under the canopy of the weeping tree these scars will never show.

Another interesting plant that is grafted is the Weeping Cotoneaster. In this case the seedling that is grown to serve as the rootstock is Paul's Scarlet Hawthorn, and Cotoneaster Apiculata is grafted onto the Hawthorn rootstock at a height of 5'. Years ago a nurseryman found through experimentation that these two plants are actually compatible, and a beautiful and unique plant was created. I have one of these in my landscape and we love it.

  Once again since the graft union is at 5', any growth coming from the stem (rootstock) must be removed. In this case the growth coming from the rootstock will be Hawthorn and will look completely different from the Cotoneaster which is what the plant is supposed to be. The easiest way to keep up with this type of pruning is to keep an eye on your grafted plants when you're in the yard. As soon as you see new growth coming from below the graft union, just pick it off with your fingernail.

  If you catch these new buds when they first emerge, pruning them off is as easy as that. Walk around your yard and look for grafted or budded plants, and see if you can find any that have growth that doesn't seem to match the rest of the plant. Look closely and you may find that the growth is coming from below a graft or bud union.

Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up for his excellent gardening newsletter.  Article provided by http://gardening-articles.com

About the author: Michael J. McGroarty has more than 30 years experience in the landscape gardening/nursery industry. He's spent the better part of his life on his hands and knees in the dirt working with plants and his hands-on experience allows Mike to write in a manner than many gardeners find to be helpful and beneficial.

Same Day Flower Delivery

Author: Eddie Tobey

Article: So, you've let your wife's birthday slip your mind. This is an incredible feat considering she has been dropping not-so-subtle hints for the past 2 weeks. After you have smacked yourself, you begin to devise a plan. A surprise dinner at her favorite restaurant will certainly show her your romantic side, but you need something else. The tried-and-true gift of flowers will certainly do the trick. It is no surprise that men find giving flowers as a gift to be a safe and sure way to please their mates. Ordering is usually simple and show sincere admiration and appreciation.

If you are working on a short time frame then same day flower delivery might be a good option for you. Yes, you could stop by the florist on your way home and get a bouquet, however many people enjoy the surprise of an unexpected delivery of fresh cut flowers. Most also enjoy the envying look of coworkers as they parade through the office carrying their colorful and aromatic bouquet.

Most floral companies offer same day delivery. Usually the best way to order flowers for same day delivery is by contacting florists in your area. You may have to contact several stores before finding the right fit. Some florists may have cut-off times for same day deliver of flowers while others may deliver same day all day. Some established florists who have a busy workload may additionally charge you a processing fee for same day delivery orders. In most cases, however, florists are happy to deliver same day, as they understand that unexpected events happen and are more than willing to accommodate.

Generally speaking, it is not usually wise to order flowers online if you need same day delivery. Some websites offer this service but the majority ask for at least a 3 day notice. If you do find an online florist who will delivery the same day, they may charge a hefty fee. Be sure to read all of the fine print and ask for any hidden or extra charges. You may be in a hurry to place your order but it is very important that you know the terms of service. Also be attentive to what type of flowers, the arrangement, enclosure cards and any accessories that you wish to be included. Your satisfactory experience with any same day flower delivery depends on your knowledge of what you are ordering.

About the author: <a href=""http://www.i-flowerdelivery.com"">Flower Delivery Info</a> provides information on same day, next day, international, and online flower delivery in various regions Flower Delivery Info is the sister site of <a href=""http://www.e-flowerbulbs.com"">Flower Bulbs Web</a>.

Landscaping Tips- the Water Garden

Author: Carlo Morelli

Article: There are a lot of new trends surfacing in gardening, and water gardening is one of the new interests. Water gardening can include waterfalls, ponds, streams and fountains, all of which can be combined with lighting, plants, and fish. Water gardening need not have a pond or natural water source moreover, it could be a plastic tub, plastic lined shallow in the back yard or, almost anything that will hold water.

An important consideration in planning a water garden is the choosing a location. Plants and fish both need plenty of sunlight, places in direct light away from trees and bushes are the top places. This will also help prevent leaves and debris from collecting in the water.

When planning for a water garden the next step is to choose the size you want. This depends of course on the resources you want to dedicate to it, how much money and time you are willing to spend. A water garden can be expensive if you go for a big garden filled with plants, rocks, fish, and lights. Also think about your property's size, which will also affect amount of time you'll spend maintaining your water garden.

Aquatic pond plants can be free floating, submerged, or marginal. What type you select is a matter of aesthetics and preference. Some plants are known for their scents, some for supplying oxygen keep the pool healthy, and some are just picturesque. Remember that the plants should only cover about half of the water, especially if you have fish. Fish are not only nice to look at; they're beneficial in that they help keep debris at a minimum and help in controlling larva and other insects.

One of the big challenges in water gardening is maintaining water free of algae. Algae problems are usually the result of nutrients in the water from feeding fish too often or over fertilizing plants. By cutting back on feeding and fertilizing, adding more plants, putting in a pond filtering system, or replacing the water with fresh water, algae is easily controlled. If a pond is constructed correctly and maintained properly algae problems can be kept at a minimum.

All garden pools, no matter the size, require some maintenance during the year. With proper planning you can create a healthy equilibrium between living and decorative features of a water garden that can almost care for itself with simple maintenance inputs from you.

About the author: Carlo Morelli writes for OnlineTips.Org, where you can read about <a href=""http://onlinetips.org/landscaping-birds"">landscaping to attract birds</a>, <a href=""http://www.onlinetips.org/murray-lawn-mowers"">Murray lawn mowers</a> and other home/garden topics

How to Grow Flowering Dogwood Trees from Seed

Author: Michael J. McGroarty

Article: You are welcome to use this article on your website or in your newsletter as long as you reprint it as is, including the contact information at the end. Website URLs must be active links. You are welcome to use this article with an affiliate link, http://www.freeplants.com/resellers.htm

Flowering Dogwood trees can be easily grown from seed, however 99.9999% of the seedlings that sprout will be Cornus Florida, which is White Flowering Dogwood. It doesn't matter if you collect the seeds from a White Dogwood or a Pink Dogwood, the seedlings are likely to be white.

The only predictable way to grow a Pink Dogwood, Red Dogwood, or one of the beautiful Dogwoods with variegated leaves, is to bud or graft the desired variety onto a White Dogwood seedling.    

See this page on my website for details on ""budding"": http://www.freeplants.com/budding_fruit_trees_and_ornamental_plan ts.htm

Dogwood trees begin producing seeds right after the petals drop from the flowers. It's a slow process that takes all summer. By late summer the seeds begin to turn red, which means they are just about mature. Don't pick them too early or the embryo will not be fully developed and they will not be viable. When the seeds are fully developed they will begin to fall from the tree, and at that time you can begin to pick them.

  Ripe seeds can be removed easily. If they don't pop right off when you grab them, they are not quite ready, give them another week or two. Don't let them fall to the ground, the chipmunks, birds and other critters love them, and usually eat them as fast as they fall.

  Once picked, let them sit for a week or so, until the pulp begins to soften. At that time soak them in a pail of water to further soften the pulp. While still in the pail of water squeeze the seeds between your fingers to separate the seeds from the pulp. Once they are separated slowly add water to the pail until it overflows, allowing the water to flow over the edge of the pail slowly.

  The viable seeds should sink to the bottom of the pail, while the pulp should float to the top. Allow the pulp to float out of the pail until you have nothing but clean seeds lying on the bottom of the pail. Drain the water and spread the seeds out on a table to dry. Once dry the seeds can be stored in a cool dry place. They will keep this way for some time.

  Because Dogwood seeds have a very hard outer coating on the seed, they need to be pretreated or stratified before they will germinate. This process softens the outer coating so that water and oxygen can enter, initiating the germination process. There are several ways to stratify Dogwood seeds, from treating them with acid to storing them in the refrigerator. I will share a couple of techniques that I think will work the best for someone with little experience.

  One technique requires that you decide what day next spring you would like to plant the seeds and then counting backwards on your calendar for 210 days to start the stratification process. Here in the north May 15 is a good target date for planting because by then we should be safe from frost. You don't want Mother Nature to do them in before they even have a chance.

  210 days from May 15 would put you around Oct. 15 to start the stratification process. To stratify the seeds using this technique simply place them in a plastic bag with some moist (not wet!) peat moss, or a mixture of moist peat and sand. Poke some holes in the bag, you don't want it air tight. Store them in this mixture at room temperature for a period of 105 days.

  After 105 days move them to your refrigerator for another 105 days. Don't put them way in the back where they might freeze. You want them cool, but not frozen. After 105 days of storage in the refrigerator they should be ready to plant outside. Just time it so that you get them outside just after the danger of frost has past.

  While the seeds are being stored check them weekly, if you have fungus growing in the bag sprinkle a little fungicide in. Near the end of the storage period you should be checking for germination, as soon as 10% of the seeds have germinated they should be planted out. If it's too early, plant them in a flat indoors, just make sure they get plenty of sunlight.

  To plant them simply sprinkle the entire contents of the bag on top of the soil and spread it out. Sprinkle some light soil over top. Do not plant the seeds too deep. 1/4"" of soil over top is all you want. Water them thoroughly after planting, then allow the soil to dry out before watering again. Make sure you plant them in an area that drains well, you don't want them in soggy soil or they will rot.

  That's one technique. Another technique is to nick each seed in a couple of different places with a knife right after the seeds are cleaned, and plant them out immediately in the fall. Cover the seed bed with a piece of screen so the critters don't dig them up and eat them.

   Which technique works better? 

I don't know. There are so many variables that can change the outcome that I have not seen where one works better than the other. I suggest you do some each way and see what works best for you. I like getting them planted right away in the fall and putting Mother Nature in charge, but it's disappointing if something happens and you have a poor stand, that's why it's always nice to try some both ways.

  You can also grow Chinese Dogwood (Cornus Kousa) from seed. Chinese Dogwood is very popular because it flowers much later than most other ornamentals. Late June is usually when they are in bloom, and the flowers are cream colored against dark green foliage. It makes the flowers look mint green in color. Just use the same techniques as above.

Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up for his excellent gardening newsletter.  Article provided by http://gardening-articles.com

About the author: Michael J. McGroarty has more than 30 years experience in the landscape gardening/nursery industry. He's spent the better part of his life on his hands and knees in the dirt working with plants and his hands-on experience allows Mike to write in a manner than many gardeners find to be helpful and beneficial.

Why Grass Seed Mixtures Are The Way to Go

Author: Jon Weaver

Article: The gardener without years of experience will do well to consider planting a mixture of grasses rather than a solid turf of a single species. If he knows exactly what he is doing, and understands how to control the diseases which might attack his particular single species of grass, the chances are it will survive and thrive without serious injury.

But the beginner rarely has the necessary skill and knowledge for this, and, even when he does, he often runs into unforeseen trouble. If conditions change¡ªsuch as an extremely wet or dry year¡ªa solid turf of one species may suffer severely, whereas one containing several grasses will pull through in good shape.

Disease is a good example of the type of problem a mixture may help avoid. The fungi which attack grasses are quite specific in their action. That is, some will attack fescues but not bluegrasses, while others attack bents but not fescues. Except for rust, which is largely airborne, most of these turf diseases are spread by contact from one blade to another.

If the turf is made up of more than one species, this plant- to-plant contact is broken. I have seen one section of a lawn, seeded wholly to Common Kentucky Bluegrass, go down by late June when attacked by helminthosporium leaf spot, while another part of the same lawn¡ªplanted with Chewing's Fescue and Highland Bent in addition to the bluegrass¡ªshowed only an occasional area affected by the leaf spot. Both areas were maintained exactly the same.

Another advantage of mixtures is that they tend to adjust themselves to the varying soil conditions often found within a lawn, and also to differences in sun and shade. It is not uncommon for the same lawn to have one area that receives three hours of sun?shine while a short distance away it has sun all day long.

One of the very real problems a seedsman has, for example, is in recommending a grass to the man who doesn't know what a sunny lawn is. I have actually studied lawns which the owner claimed received sun ""all day long"" and found they had four hours or less.

This is often true in cities, where the line of parkway trees and the house form barriers that cut off the sun until late in the morning and then block it again early in the afternoon.

By doing just a little research, which often amounts to asking a representative at your local nursury or home supply store, you will find the perfect mixture of grass seed for your needs and avoid many troublesome and time-consuming problems.

About the author: FREE information on how to have the yard of your green dreams, visit All About Your Lawn today! It's FREE! Click here: http://www.AllAboutYourLawn.com

Blue Flowers Add Style and Color to any Garden

Author: David Chandler

Article: Blue flowers are some of the most striking plants around and can add a rich splash of color to any garden. Plant them in a cluster of all blue or mix them in with other flowers for a rainbow of color.

When planting flowers, it is important to remember to follow the instructions on the tag for the plant. Always buy plants that will thrive in the conditions in which you intend to grow them. A plant that loves sun will not do well in a shady area and you will only be disappointed with the results.

When planning your garden, be aware of the bloom time of the flowers. Planting perennials with different bloom times near each other will insure a garden that has blooms all season long. Remember also to plan for the height of the plants, putting the taller ones in the back.

Consider the flowers on the list below for your garden.

Polemonuim aka Blue Pearl - A compact plant with deep sky blue flowers that grows to 10"". It blooms in late spring to early summer. Plant in partial shade and in well drained soil.

Blue Sea Holly - This dramatic plant has a lavender blue cone like flower with long spiked petals. It grows to 30"" and is a favorite for dried flower arrangements. Plant in full sun - blooms in mid to late summer.

Delphinium aka Butterfly Blue - Bright blue delicate flowers adorn a plant that blooms in early to mid summer. It reaches 10"" tall and prefers a sunny location with rich moist soil.

Campanula aka Blue Carpet - Bright blue to lilac colored flowers bloom for weeks in the middle of summer. This low growing perennial grows to 4"" and prefers full sun with well-drained soil.

Penstemon aka Blue Buckle - This plant has tubular shaped blooms in blue to purple and flowers in mid summer to early fall. It grows to 15"" and likes well-drained soil with full or partial sun.

Hydrangea aka Nikko Blue - Gigantic clumps of blue flowers adorn this shrub for most of the summer. In the fall, the flowers turn a golden color. This plant is a new variety that prefers rich soil but will grow in shade, partial sun, or full sun.

Vinca - Medium blue flowers and glossy green leaves form a carpet that grows to about 6"" tall and blooms in mid spring. This plant will grow in most soil conditions, in the shade or sun.

Ajuga aka Bronze Beauty - This short bushy plant has spikes of blue flowers that grows quickly. Great as a ground cover or in raised beds. It blooms in spring and prefers a shady area.

Scabiosa aka Butterfly Blue - A bushy perennial with lavender blue flowers that bloom from June to October. This plant likes full sun and attracts butterflies and hummingbirds.

Verbena aka Babylon Blue - Blue purple flowers petals adorn a plant that blooms in early spring. Great for window boxes and planters.

For more information about planning your garden, visit http://www.springgardenflowerguide.com and http://www.gardencenterinfoguide.com

About the author: David Chandler For your FREE Stock Market Trading Mini Course: ""What The Wall Street Hot Shots Won't Tell You!"" go to: http://www.stockmarketgenie.com

Fertilizing to Create More Blossoms on Your Flowers, Flowering Shrubs and Trees

Author: Michael J. McGroarty

Article:   You are welcome to use this article on your website or in your newsletter as long as you reprint it as is, including the contact information at the end. Website URLs must be active links. You are welcome to use this article with an affiliate link, http://www.freeplants.com/resellers.htm

The secret to making your flowering trees, shrubs, annuals, and perennials bloom more is in the numbers. All fertilizers have analysis numbers on the package. These numbers represent the percentage of each chemical the fertilizer contains.  

For example, 12-12-12 is a typical garden fertilizer that would contain 12% nitrogen, 12% phosphorous, and 12% potassium. The quick explanation is; nitrogen produces vegetative, or top growth, phosphorous produces flower buds, fruit, and root development, while potassium builds strong healthy plants.

  Most lawn grasses are vigorous growers and therefore require significantly more nitrogen than the other plants in your yard. A lawn fertilizer would have an analysis of 26-3-3, indicating a fertilizer high in nitrogen. You would not want to use a fertilizer containing such a high percentage of nitrogen on landscape plants because it would be very easy to burn them. You must also keep in mind that many lawn fertilizers contain broadleaf weed killers, and most ornamental plants have broad leaves. The fertilizer doesn't know the difference, and it will damage or kill ornamental trees and shrubs.

  During the summer months the growth rate of most plants slows down, and when plants are not actively growing, they need very little nitrogen. Although not vigorously putting on new growth, many plants such as Dogwood Trees, Rhododendrons, and Azaleas are quietly working to produce flower buds for next year. Annual and perennial flowers are also busy making new flower buds.

  To encourage flower bud production you can apply a fertilizer that contains a small percentage of nitrogen, a higher percentage of phosphorous, and a little potassium. I recently purchased a liquid fertilizer with an analysis of 5-30-5, ideal for flower production. Because the product is sold as a bloom producer, the manufacture also added a little chelated iron, manganese, and zinc, all good for your plants as well.

  Most garden centers and discount stores carry similar products. I chose a liquid fertilizer because liquid fertilizers are absorbed both through the roots and systemically through the foliage, so they work quicker. I used a sprayer that attaches to the end of the garden hose to apply the fertilizer, but do not use the same hose end sprayer that you use for lawn fertilizers. There could be residual weed killer still in the sprayer.

  About those hose end sprayers. I purchased one that is supposed to automatically mix the proper ratio for you. I used it to apply a general insecticide, and it worked, but it sure seemed like I went through a lot more insecticide than I needed. When I used it for the fertilizer the screen on the little pick up hose inside the jar kept getting clogged with the tiny solids in the fertilizer. I recommend using a solution of one part liquid fertilizer to one part water in the sprayer jar, and applying at a heavier rate.

  Watch the liquid in the sprayer jar, and if it isn't going down remove the lid and clean the little screen by spraying it with water from the garden hose. Read the application instructions on the container to determine how much fertilizer to apply, and how often. A fertilizer high in phosphorous will increase flower production. You will see a difference. 

Remember the golden rule of applying fertilizers. ""Not enough is always better than too much.""

Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up for his excellent gardening newsletter.  Article provided by http://gardening-articles.com

About the author: Michael J. McGroarty has more than 30 years experience in the landscape gardening/nursery industry. He's spent the better part of his life on his hands and knees in the dirt working with plants and his hands-on experience allows Mike to write in a manner than many gardeners find to be helpful and beneficial.

Something old, something new

Author: Karen Creel

Article: Something old, something new....

....something borrowed, something blue, a silver sixpence in her shoe. This well known rhyme is only one of many customs and traditions associated with the marriage ceremony. It originates from an old English superstition that required the bride to carry each of these objects with her as she walked down the aisle. Something old symbolized the bride's past and hope for a long marriage. Something new, the beginning of the bride and groom's new life together as husband and wife, something borrowed: ""borrowing"" the happiness of an existing marriage and using it to start happiness and joy in the couples new marriage. The bride carrying something blue symbolized loyalty and fidelity in the marriage: and a silver sixpence in her shoe symbolized good luck. Today's version of the wedding cake may have evolved from the early Roman tradition of breaking bread over the brides' head right after the ceremony. The wheat in the bread symbolized fertility and the crumbs were considered good luck. The custom of having flowers play a role in the wedding ceremony has long been a custom, but herbs have not been used as much in today's modern wedding. The symbolic use of herbs and the herbal theme wedding appears to be undergoing a revival. Every bride wishes for a fairytale wedding, and wants hers to be the one everyone remembers When you plan a wedding to incorporate herbs, you will create a lifetime of memories for you and your guests. There are scores of herbs that can be chosen by the bride and groom to express their love for each other, but there are five herbs that have the longest documented history in wedding ceremonies. Some date as far back as 2,000 years. Rosemary: ""that's for remembrance"". In ancient Greece brides entwined rosemary with myrtle and hawthorne to style their bridal crowns. Rue: ""to protect one from evil"" According to some eastern European customs, the brides's mother would present her daughter with a pot of rue she had taken from her own garden, for the daughter to start hers. Myrtle: represents ""true love"" Myrtle was the herb of the goddess of love, Venus. She used the herb's blossoms to fashion crowns and garlands for her followers to wear. Ivy: ""for fidelity"". The Roman bride and groom were given a bough of these heart shaped leaves and trailing stems of ivy during the wedding ceremony. Marjoram: ""the herb of joy, happiness and marital bliss"" Marjoram was woven into the crowns and nosegays of the bride and her attendents by the ancient Greeks and Romans. Herbs, dried, fresh, and their essential oils can be used before the ceremony, during the wedding itself, and the reception. Invitations scented with the essential oils of lavender, vanilla, or ylang ylang, are some of my favorites. (Place a cotton ball with several drops of oil in the corner of the box, not touching the paper). Herbs can used liberaly in the bride and attendants bouquets, and the groom and groomsmens boutonnieres. There are a number of good books with herbal recipes for main dishes, dips, cakes, punches, and teas, that will continue the herbal theme, and the wedding and reception area can be filled with the aroma of diffusing oil, bouquets or pots of fresh herbs, and herb scented candles. Whether you decide to plan an herb themed wedding, or just incorporate one or a few herbs in your ceremon, they will make your special day truly memorable. Karen Creel karen@gardenchick.com www.GardenChick.com

About the author: Karen Creel is a nurse by profession, but enjoys organic gardening in her urban garden. Using the harvest of the garden in cooking, herbal seasoning blends, bath and body products, dream pillows and pet products, Karen has developed a business GardenChick, to bring these products to the market. She has written several articles for the Essential Herbal Magazine, and a local womens magazine.

Orchid Care: How to Have Orchids in Flower By Christmas

Author: Yassir Islam

Article: Fall Weather Can Help Your Orchids To Flower!

Orchids bloom most profusely in the fall through winter months. Now is the perfect time to prepare your mature healthy plants to bloom, but you only have a few weeks! What's the secret? Most orchids depend on a day and night temperature variation of about 8 to 10 degrees to stimulate them to bloom. As night temperatures fall in the next month or so, you have an opportunity to encourage your orchid plants to flower. Simply place your plants close to a window that is cracked at night, to let in a little cool air. Give your plants this treatment for about 3 to 4 weeks and you should begin to see flower stalks emerging soon after that.

How low should you let the night temperature drop? For paphs and phals, temperatures of about 55 to 60 degrees should suffice. Make sure your plants are not in a cold draft, or protect them with a light curtain. Placing them in an unheated room at night will also do the trick. Remember that day temperatures need to be about ten degrees higher. If your orchid plants have been growing outside this summer, you can simply leave them out for a few more weeks. If temperatures threaten to fall below 55, all but the coolest growing of orchids, such as cymbidiums, should be brought in.

Your plants must be healthy, and well care for to respond this treatment- if a plant has just flowered, don't expect it to bloom again right away. It may need to wait until spring before it sends up more flowers. This method generally works best with orchids that have their natural flowering season in the fall through spring months, including most phalaenopsis (moth orchids), paphiopedilum/paphs (slipper orchids) and cattleyas. Give it a try and you may be surprised when that reluctant orchid finally puts on a dazzling floral display.

About the author: Yassir Islam started growing orchids as a teenager. His passion for these plants has taken him around the world, from orchid hunting in Africa to judging orchids in Japan. More tips on getting your orchids to flower, and tons of orchid photographs, can be found on his free informational website, <b>www.argusorchids.net<b>

Tips on Making Beautiful Floral Arrangements

Author: Sandy Beaches

Article: Do you have your own flower garden and would like to make some use of it? Are you fond of crafts and do it your self decorative projects? Would you like to make some homemade floral arrangements to further accent your home or to give away as gifts? If this sounds like you, then please read on for some tips on making beautiful floral arrangements.

To start your floral arrangements, you will first need something to put your flowers in. Get a vase or some other container that is decorative and also holds water. Before you start your floral arrangements, you may want to consider further decorating the vase or container by spraying it with gold or bronze spray paint. Let it dry for 24 hours and then spray on a coat of clear enamel spray. This will give your arrangement a more decorative feel.

Next, you need a base for your floral arrangements. The base is used for the flowers to have something to anchor to. You can use a ball of willow branches, grapevine, or floral foam that you can buy at a local craft store. The floral foam is called Oasis. If you use Oasis, be sure to soak it in water and poke holes in it with a pen before you put flowers it so that it doesn't break the stems.

When cutting flowers for floral arrangements, try to do so early in the day or morning. This is because the stems have more water in them at this point of the day and the flowers are not drooping. Be sure to only use cold water in the flower arrangement because warm water tends to make the flowers open up too soon and not last as long.

If you want your flowers to last longer, you can places apple and lemon wedges in the water at the bottom of the floral arrangements. The apples have nutrients that will help feed the flowers, while the lemons prevent premature rotting and browning. It also adds a more decorative touch to your flower arrangements.

When designing your flower arrangements, try to pick colors that go with the environment the arrangement will be placed in. First use taller flowers to create the vertical part of the arrangement. Then use full blooming flowers with bright and bold colors for the center and sides of the floral arrangements. Then fill in the small gaps with tiny flowers.

Those were some great tips on making beautiful floral arrangements. If you use all of these tips in conjunction with each other, you are sure to have a long lasting floral arrangement. With a little practice, you can be well on your way to having beautiful floral arrangements that rival those found in floral shops!

About the author:

Sandy Beaches offers expert advice and great tips regarding all aspects concerning Flowers. Get the information you are seeking now by visiting http://www.flowerscenter.info

Plant a Fairy GardenChair

Author: Karen Creel

Article: ""just living is not enough"" said the butterfly fairy, ""one must have sunshine, freedom, and a little flower."" Hans Christian Anderson What better way to invite the wee folk into your garden than by creating a special garden just for them. To make them feel welcome, plant a few of their favorite flowers or herbs, and add some natural building materials such as small rocks, twigs or shells for them to make their home. All you to do after that is simple...just sit back and believe.

Materials you will need for your Fairygarden chair: Scour thrift stores, flea markets, or neighborhood curbsides for an old chair. Remove the bottom.

Chicken wire. Cut two pieces about 12"" larger than the opening of the bottom to allow you to form a basket to place the soil and flowers/herbs.

Wire cutters

Staple gun and heavy duty staples

Sphagnum moss

Green sheet moss

potting soil amended with compost or rotted manure

Fairy flowers and or herbs-choice of plants will depend on where you intend to place your chair. Sunny spots will require sun loving plants and a shady or woodland area will require shade loving plants.

Directions:

Place the two pieces of chicken wire over the opening of the seat and gently push down to form a fairly deep ""basket"" Shape the wire over the seat sides and staple underneath being careful to push down any wires.

Line the basket with wet sphagnum moss, placing the green mossy side face down and showing through the chicken wire. Cover the wire completely, staple the chicken wire to the frame, bending it around to the bottom of the chair frame. Be sure to carefully bend down the edges to prevent any sharp wire from sticking your fairy friends. Fill the basket completely with your amended soil and plant some of your favorite fairy plants.

Plant suggestions include:

Herbs: Thyme: This is a must to invite fairies into your garden. It is said that fairies hide their babies under the thyme for safe keeping.

Lavender: Lavender is good for all those midnight fairy parties. They can create wonderful lavender infused wine. The scent of lavender is very soothing to lull the fairy babies to sleep.

Sweet Woodruff: The delicate white flowers will reflect the moonlight for their fairy dances.

Lambs ear: What a soft place to make a fairy bed! Rosemary: Called the elf plant. Fairy lore maintains they are captivated by it. Plant the trailing variety to cascade down the side of the chair.

Flowers for your fairychair include:

Primrose: Attracts the company of fairies. Called the fairy flower. Lilly of the valley: Dainty, bell shaped flowers, perfect for making fairy caps.

Care of your fairychair. Like all container gardens, the fairy chair will need to be watered more often. Check daily. If herbs and perennial flowers are planted, they will need to be pruned to keep them compact. Also, your soil will need to be refurbished periodically with new plants to replace the annuals.

About the author: Urban gardener Karen Creel enjoys using the garden's harvest to create herbal seasonings, aromatherapeutic bath and body products,and herbal pet treats. Add a little whimsy to the garden with a chair to invite the Wee Folk in. Visit Karen at www.GardenChick.com

Managing Pond Motives and Expectations

Author: Brett Fogle

Article: INTRODUCTION

Water in the garden. It brings us refreshing coolness on the hottest summer day. It satisfies our senses with sounds that only water can make. It delights our eyes with the unsurpassed beauty of colorful water lilies, the glimmering iridescence of fish and reflections from the sky.

Water has immense attraction to all people. For centuries Europeans have enjoyed the beauty of fountains and water gardens in their public squares and private estates. Water gardens create ""natural"" focal points, whether located in the home garden, shopping mall, or office building.

This book is written to fill a void in today's selection of gardening books. A few books are sprinkled here and there, covering specific areas of water gardening such as plants and Koi, but this book is written to cover all facets of decorative water gardening for homeowners as well as professional landscapers and architects.

The word ""pond"" conjures up different images for different people. Some envision a farm pond with a dirt bottom, fed by a creek bed and alive with ducks and frogs. Others see a mossy-covered goldfish pool in the corner of a yard. For our purposes, the word ""pond"" will be used in the Webster's Dictionary sense: ""artificially enclosed body of water; a body of standing water smaller than a lake, often artificially formed."" In this book you'll also find some of the newer terms - aquasphere, aquatic habitat, aquatic environment, or waterscape.

The reasons for considering a water garden are varied. Commercial landscape architects use water in their designs for effect and uniqueness. Homeowners want to exchange their rakes, lawn mowers and weedeaters for a work free garden. Others desire a pond ""just like grandpa always had,"" yet most of us are simply looking for a garden to enjoy, a haven for relaxation.

Water does have a relaxing affect, whether it be the rhythmic waves of the ocean, a gently running brook, or the quiet beauty of a pond. While we may be unable to recreate nature with oceans and brooks, we can find pleasure in designing and building ponds.

MOTIVES

Before deciding on a water garden, consider your motives. Ask yourself the following questions:

* Why do I want a pond?

* Am I trying to save work for myself? * Do I want a part of nature in my own backyard? * Am I looking for a fishpond? Or a plant pond? A fountain or waterfall? * Do I want to cool off in the pond? * Do I want to convert a swimming pool?

Am I looking for a focal point in the yard or simply a subtle blend of plants and fish? Many people think water gardening means digging a hole, filling it in with water, plants and fish, and that's all there is to it. While it's true that established ponds require minimal work, prospective water gardeners should realize that a certain amount of responsibility goes with a pond garden.

When you build a pond, you're putting in a natural habitat, something that is ""alive"" and ""breathing"" with plants and animals. Plants live and grow in this natural habitat; natural gas exchanges are going on; birds, bugs, fish, frogs and animals come to visit and drink from you pond. In other words, you're doing more than just cementing an area in the yard and filling it with water. You are bringing nature into your surroundings.

EXPECTATIONS

Prospective water gardeners should also examine their expectations. What do you want from your pond?

Before starting construction, you should decide if you want a fishpond, a fish and plant pond, a fountain, or a waterfall. For example, a Koi pond without plants will be constructed differently than ponds containing both fish and plants.

Do you want you pond to be a focal point - something that stands out dramatically with waterfalls or spraying fountains? Or is your life hectic and frenzied, so you're looking for a quiet haven for meditation and relaxation?

If you expect a low maintenance, relaxing environment, you'll find it in water gardening. You may wonder how water gardening can be effortless. The answer is nature. Properly planned water gardens achieve an ecological balance of water, plants, fish, and snails.

Water ponds answer a multitude of expectations, but the final decision on what you want from your water garden must come from you.

About the author: Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several pond-related websites including macarthurwatergardens.com and pond-filters-online.com. He also publishes a free monthly newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader circulation of over 9,000 pond owners. To sign up for the free newsletter and receive a complimentary 'New Pond Owners Guide' for joining, just visit MacArthur Water Gardens at our website.

Easy Rose Care Tips

Author: Marc Entz

Article: Many people can't resist a rose's beauty and scent. Although these flowers are known to be a bit complicated to grow, anyone can start rose gardening in the comfort of his own backyard.

To make sure that your most prized roses are in the best of health, simply follow these tips on dealing with rose dilemmas:

1. Black Spots on Leaves

This disease is commonly known as black spot. Black spots appear as circular with fringed edges on leaves. They cause the leaves to yellow. The solution is to remove the infected foliage and pick up any fallen leaves around the rose. Artificial sprays may be used to prevent or treat this kind of rose disease.

2. Blistered underside of leaves

A disease of roses known as rust, it is characterized with orange-red blisters that turn black in fall. In spring, it attacks new sprouts. This disease can even survive winter. What you can do is to collect and discard leaves that are infected in fall. Benomyl and Funginex spraying every 7-10 days may help.

3. Malformed or stunted leaves and flowers

What could have caused this is the presence of spider mites. They are tiny yellow, red or green spiders on the underside of leaves. They also suck juices from leaves. The application of Orthene or Isotox may help in treating this infestation.

4. Weak and mottled leaves with tiny white webs under them

This might be caused by aphids. They are small soft-bodied insects that usually brown, green or red. Often clustered under leaves and flower buds, they suck plant juices from tender buds. Malathion or diazinon spray may help roses to survive these bugs.

5. Flowers that don't open or are deformed when they open.

Thrips could be the reason behind this deformation and unopened flowers. It is characterized with slender, brown-yellow bugs with fringed wings thriving in flower buds. They also suck juices from flower buds. One should cut and discard the infested flowers. Using Orthene and malathion may also treat this health problem of your roses.

These are some tips to help you produce beautiful roses in your garden every season. Just remember to follow the manufacturer's directions when using pesticides. And do not contact the chemicals with your skin. Always wear gloves when applying these chemicals because they are highly toxic.

About the author: Marc Entz writes articles for InterMarket Publications.

See their new articles on fishing, gardening, travel, dog training, and casinos. Now on the web at http://www.hydroponics-gardening.usdsavers.com

Be An Exhibitionist: How to Show Your Roses

Author: ron King

Article: Now that you have a rose garden you are proud of, it's time to take the next step and let others see the beauty of your roses. Rose shows and exhibits are exciting events where you get a chance to see how your roses stack up against other rosarians'. It doesn't matter if you win -- the experience alone will be fun, and you'll learn a lot.

Visit a Rose Show

Before entering your own roses, visit a few rose shows to see how everything works. If at all possible, get permission to enter the preparation room to see what experienced displayers do before the judging begins.

Get The Rule Book

Get a copy of the rule book from the American Rose Society. Visit their web site at www.ARS.org for more information.

When you decide you are ready, look for a show that's close to home to limit your travel time and expenses. Many exhibits offer special judging classes for beginners, so try to find one of those for your first time.

Follow this timetable and you'll be ready to face the judges on the day of your show:

30 Days Before The Show

It's easiest to start with 1 single bloom on a stem, so select the 1 rose you will be showing. Be sure to pick a rose with a sturdy and straight stem.

Begin preparing the rose for exhibit by cutting off all of the buds that are forming on the side of the stem between the top and the leaf. This focuses all the nutrients to the single bloom at the end of the stem.

Support the cane of your selected rose by staking it with a bamboo stake and some rose or twist ties. This protects the cane and helps to support the rose as it grows.

Spray fungicide when needed, and promptly remove any aphids or spider mites. Aphids can be removed by spritzing with soapy water. Spider mites can be lightly sprayed with plain water.

Water your roses as you normally would, and apply organics and fertilizer as needed.

Put together your tool kit for the day of the show. Most experienced rosarians carry the following in their kits: * American Rose Society Rule Book * Shears * Several soft cloths * Cotton swabs (such as Q-Tips) * Plastic wrap * Small, soft artist's paintbrush

7 Days Before The Show

Cover your selected bloom at night with a baggy that's secured below the bloom with a tie. Remove the baggie before the sun rises in the morning. Do this every night until you leave for the show.

2 Days Before The Show

Cut the rose, with the stem a bit longer than usual, because you will be re-cutting it on the day of the show.

Place the rose in a florist's bucket, cover the bloom with a baggie and tie it off below the bloom. Place the bucket and rose in the refrigerator.

Morning of The Show

Remove the rose from the refrigerator, place the container and rose safely in your car, grab your kit, and head for the show!

About the author: Ron King is a full-time researcher, writer, and web developer. Visit http://www.grow-roses-now.com to learn more about this fascinating hobby.

Copyright 2005 Ron King. This article may be reprinted if the resource box is left intact.