King Gardener: July 2007

Tuesday, July 31, 2007

Plant Hardiness Zones

Author: Dean Novosat

Article: When selecting plants for the landscape, is important to select plants that will grow in your climate. The United States has 10 of growing or climate zones. These zones range from the zone 1 in the extreme northern part of United States, to his own 10, which covers the southernmost part. Zone 1, is for the most hardiest of cold weather plants. Temperatures in zone 1 can reach 50 degrees below 0. Zone 10 on the other hand, is is a more tropical climate. Zone 10 plants only need to worry about cold temperatures of 30 to 40 degrees.

Your local nursery or garden center should have plants that are appropriate for your climate zone. however, if you are buying your seeds or plants over the Internet and, or through a catalog, you need to know which climate zone you live in. For example southern Florida, extreme southern Texas, and parts of California, are in Zone 10. the rest of Florida, parts of Louisiana, Texas, and much of California, or in zone 9. Zone 8 covers much of the Southeast from eastern Virginia through the Carolinas, Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, and much of Texas. Zone 7 covers an area a little farther north than Zone 8. states in June 7th include Delaware, Maryland, Virginia, Tennessee, Arkansas, Oklahoma, in parts of Texas. Zones 5 and 6 cover much of the middle part of United States from the New England states through Pennsylvania, West Virginia, Ohio, Illinois, Indiana, Missouri, Nebraska, Kansas, and even much of the desert Southwest, including Nevada. Zone 4 is somewhat colder climates include states such as Maine, Vermont, New Hampshire, northern New York State, the Wisconsin, South Dakota, states in the Rocky Mountains, in Montana. Zone 3 includes the cold states such as northern mean, North Dakota and Wisconsin. Zones 1and 2 are mostly found in Canada.

Average minimum temperatures for each zone Zone 1: below minus 50 degrees Zone to:-50 degrees to minus 40 degrees Zone 3:-40 degrees to minus 30 degrees Zone for:-30 degrees to -23 is Zone 5-20 degrees to minus 10 degrees Zone 6:-10 degrees to 0 degrees Zone 7:0 degrees to 10 degrees Zone 8:10 degrees to 20 degrees Zone 9:20 degrees to 30 degrees Zone 10:30 degrees to 40 degrees

Armed with this knowledge, you should be able to find a variety of plants that will thrive in your climate zone. And if you are in doubt, talk to your local garden center. The experts there should be able to steer you in the right direction.

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Find more of Mr. Novosat's writings on his own blog at <a href=""http://www.novosat.us/wp/."" target=""_blank""> http://www.novosat.us/wp

About the author: Dean Novosat is an avid gardener and landscaper. He has transformed many boring yards into beautiful landscapes. He has several websites including <a href="" http://www.the-garden-doctor.com "" target=""_blank""> http://www.the-garden-doctor.com and <a href="" http://www.dr-landscape.com "" target=""_blank""> http://www.dr-landscape.com.

Monday, July 30, 2007

Choosing a colorful mix of perennials for the garden

Author: Tony Robinson

Article: Perennials have always been a favorite among beginning and experienced gardeners alike. The idea of planting once and enjoying season after season of beautiful blooms is certainly appealing, and the sheer variety of colors, shapes, sizes and textures makes perennials difficult to beat.

So whether you already have a green thumb, or you are just getting started, you owe it to yourself to check out the many perennials that can provide vibrant color and long lasting beauty season after season.

Since perennials come in so many different colors, however, it is important to plan your flower be carefully to take advantage of those color combinations. With the right mixture of perennials, you can have a vibrant, colorful garden from the earliest days of spring right through the latest days of fall.

The main goal of a bed of perennials is to provide long lasting color, and a variety of different shapes and textures, year after year and season after season. That is because unlike annuals, perennials do not have to be replanted every year.

Even though perennials have the ability to come back year after year, their actual blooming season is often relatively short, and for that reason it is best to plant a variety of perennials, which bloom at different times. This is the best way to provide a season full of beautiful blooms. The right combination of perennial plants will ensure that something in your garden will always be blooming, and combining colors carefully will help ensure that those blooms will be stunning and beautiful.

Some gardeners prefer to use spring flowering bulbs such as crocus, hyacinth, daffodils and tulips to start the growing season off right. In addition, other plants that bloom at the same time, like rock cress, bluebells, and bleeding hearts can provide a striking contrast in the garden bed.

For late spring color, many people like to add some false indigo, columbine, candytuft, leopard's bane, bellflower, peonies and oriental poppies. These flowers provide some gorgeous blooms in the late spring, and they often last into the summer months as well.

For mid to late summer blooms, try some mountain bluet, yarrow, snow-in-summer, garden lilies, violet sage and stonecrop. These flowers are great replacements for the faded spring and early summer flowers.

The late summer and fall seasons bring perennials like aster, boltonia, blue leadwort, mums, purple coneflower and plantain lily. Other great fall perennials include black eyed susans and goldenrod.

As you can see by the above list, it is possible to use a clever combination of perennials to provide striking color and contrast throughout the entire growing season. There is no wonder that perennials remain so popular with all kinds of gardeners.

About the author: Tony Robinson is an international author and webmaster. In his busy life he finds time to ""Smell the Roses"". For geat tips, techniques and articles visit http://www.rose-bloom.com

Sunday, July 29, 2007

Environmentally Safe Ways to Remove Weeds

Author: Dean Novosat

Article: There is a lot of concern about herbicides and what they are doing to our environment. Large amounts of chemicals leech into our groundwater polluting our water supply. Cancers and strange diseases with no apparent cause are being linked to chemicals and pollutants in our environment. So how do we control all those pesky weeds in our perfectly manicured landscapes? I will outline several different ways to eradicate weeds without polluting our environment.

The first and probably the simplest of all, is to roll up your sleeves, get down on your knees, and pull the weeds out! I know this seems counterintuitive in an age when we are accustomed to instantaneous and easy ways of doing things. When all we have to do is spray some highly-toxic chemical on a plant and it seemingly evaporates in less that a day! But back in the day, people used to buy tools like a hoe, or dandelion pullers to actually exert physical work to remove weeds. I prefer this method as it actually feels good to get back to our natural instincts and commune with our surroundings. Sweating in the hot sun and doing physical labor is good for the mind, body, and spirit, and with this technique, we can actually eliminate weeds!

A tip for pulling weeds is to give the weed bed a good watering the night before. With the ground thoroughly soaked, the soil will be softened and will yield the entire weed plant, root and all.

The second method is equally effective but it is more difficult to isolate a single weed in a bed of desirable plants. Simply pour hot, boiling water over the weed. The hot water will kill the weed. The next time you make a pot of tea and you have some water left over, pour it on the weeds. How about pasta water? Or corn on the cob? Plenty of boiling water left over there! While the corn is cooking or the pasta simmering, take a quick walk outside to see what weeds need to go. That way you can quickly locate them with your hot pot of water.

And lastly, you can use a string trimmer or lawn mower and just mow them down. Sure, they will grow back up but just keep whacking them down. They are green and produce lots of oxygen for your environment, and mowed down low, who would ever suspect that you have a lawn full of weeds. My lawn is full of clover and violets. Mowed down low, it looks like a beautiful lawn. However, I am the envy of the neighborhood every Spring when my lawn is covered with white and purple flowers during the month of April.

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Find more of Mr. Novosat's writings on his own blog at <a href=""http://www.novosat.us/wp/."" target=""_blank""> http://www.novosat.us/wp

Saturday, July 28, 2007

Online Garden Seed Exchanges

Author: Jill Dow

Article: If you've been gardening for any length of time you have probably realized a couple of things.

1: Gardening can be quite expensive 2: Finding the plants you really want can be a daunting task.

If you're anything like me, you enjoy making changes to your gardens on pretty much a yearly basis. I call this ""puttering"". I'm always adding, moving, and redesigning. After all, what good is puttering in the garden if there's little to do? While this is good therapy and for many like myself the ultimate form of relaxation mixed with exercise, it can cost a bundle!

I'll remove a section of garden with a brilliant new garden design in mind and head off to the local garden stores, only to find they have nothing I wanted. In the past I've settled for what was to be had, only to find myself not happy with it next year and the ""puttering"" begins again.

Then I discovered……….. ONLINE SEED EXCHANGES!!!!!

Online seed exchanges are simple online forums where gardeners can post notices of excess seed they have and are willing to exchange for what you have. You can also post requests for seed you'd like. This is a remarkable service! It costs you nothing but a few cents postage to find the garden seed you've been looking for and to share your seed with other gardeners. I'm always thrilled to acquire seed in late fall and propagate them in winter so the plants are ready for next springs puttering season.

Here are some of the best online seed exchanges.

The Garden Web Seed Exchange – http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/exseed/

Emily Compost Seed Exchange – http://www.emilycompost.com/seed_exchange.htm

The Garden Helper Seed Exchange – http://www.thegardenhelper.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php/forum/8.html

Happy puttering!

About the author: For more information on growing bulbs and seeds see http://www.bulbandseed.com

Friday, July 27, 2007

How to Grow Cooking Herbs

Author: Linda Paquette

Article: How to Grow Cooking Herbs

Grow your own cooking herbs to add fresh zest and flavor to your menus year-round!

Is It a Cooking Herb or a Spice?

The first thing to know in selecting which herbs to grow is the difference between cooking (culinary) herbs and spices. The cinnamon stick you put in your hot chocolate or apple cider is a spice while the parsley on the edge of your plate is an herb. 1.Cooking herbs are usually the fresh or dried leaves of plants while spices are the ground seeds, roots, fruits, flowers, and/or bark. 2.Herbs grow very well in temperate zones, while spices generally come from tropical areas. 3.Herbs add subtle flavor, whereas spices are generally more pungent and add more robust flavor.

Herbs run the gamut of about 70 cultivars, broken into categories of medicinal, ornamental, and aromatic as well as culinary or cooking herbs. To start growing cooking herbs, it's best first to select where and how you want to grow them.

Site Selection

Most cooking herbs thrive in just about any location that gives them plenty of light, good drainage and nutrition. In addition to outdoor garden spots, culinary herbs can be grown in patio containers, as indoor herb gardens, or in greenhouses using soil-less growing techniques like hydroponics or aquaponics.

Outdoor Cooking Herb Gardens

For easy access, plant your herb garden as close to your kitchen as possible. Herbs grown in full sun have denser foliage, darker color, and higher levels of the essential oils that add flavor to your recipes. Good air circulation and drainage are also important to the success of your cooking herb garden. The size of your cooking herb garden, of course, depends on the space you have available for growing. Generally, an area 20 by 4 feet accommodates a satisfactory variety of cultivars.

Many herbs overlap in category. Border your cooking herb garden with some cultivars that have ornamental or aromatic qualities as well as the culinary. However, remember that the main purpose of this garden is for use in your kitchen.

Place cooking herbs that you use frequently in less conspicuous areas so that you won't leave big holes in your garden when you harvest them for cooking!

Most culinary herbs thrive under the same growth conditions as the vegetables they enhance and as such are a natural addition to your vegetable garden. Some cooking herbs even have properties that repel common insect pests and garden diseases, which is an added benefit to your vegetables.

The best time to amend soil with nutrient rich compost is when you till your garden plot. Herbs have coarse roots that benefit from chunky organic matter, which helps excess water drain away and also helps provide good air circulation.

After planting your cooking herbs, skirting them with a two to three-inch layer of mulch helps soil retain moisture. In addition, composting and mulching helps you maintain the neutral to slightly alkaline soil that most herbs prefer

About the author:

Linda is an author of <a href=""http://www.gardening-guides.com/related-articles/how-to/rel ated-how-to.htm""> Gardening Tips Tricks and How To Artciles</a>.The next part read the rest on <a href=""http://www.gardening-guides.com>Gardening-Guides</a>

Thursday, July 26, 2007

A Gardener's Diary

Author: Rachel Paxton

Article: Have you ever thought about keeping a gardener's diary to record what you plant and where you plant it? Keeping a diary will help you plan next year's garden by recording which plants grew well and which ones didn't. You can also note which colors do or don't look good together, or which plants overwhelm one another. Keep a record of how long the sun shines in different areas of your yard so you can find plants that require the appropriate amount of sunlight. In our yard, the soil is not the same everywhere. We have made do by planting different kinds of plants in different types of soil.

We have a big patch of very sandy soil that turned out to be adequate to grow a good crop of zucchini and pumpkins last year, as long as we kept it well watered. Our tulips did really well last year. We have them scattered here and there throughout the yard, but their favorite place is in a very sandy shady spot next to the front porch. Those tulips were twice as big as the ones that got more sunshine. This year, however, we got a little warm weather in early spring and then a cold spell. The poor tulips never recovered from the cold and didn't bloom at all! One plant that doesn't seem to care where it is planted is our rhubarb. It has been moved from house to house several times, it has grown in different types of soil, and it has been watered inconsistently. I then cut it all off and it grows right back again! This plant seems impossible to harm.

We're experimenting with daisies this year. I wanted to add some more color to our yard. I planted them in different places and will watch to see where they do best.

I love looking at my yard and looking at all the different plants that people have given me. Who would have thought that plants could be keepsakes. You can make notes in your diary as to who gave you what plants and what meaning they have to you. Our rhubarb plant is the same one that we had at our home when I was a child, and my mom gave me some of the chrysanthemums that were given to me and planted in her yard when my daughter was born almost twelve years ago. Walking around the yard I see flowers from my aunt, rosemary from my husband's grandmother, and the young maple tree my daughter grew from a seed several years ago. There are many memories in our small surroundings. Planting seedlings from other people's gardens is also a great way to save money - plants are so expensive these days. Why pay for them at the store when you can get them for free? I also buy a lot of plants at the end of the season. A lot of stores have two-for-one sales and practically give away their leftover plants. Even a half wilted annual will perk right up when you give it a little tender-loving care. It will be back good as new next year.

Your diary can be as simple as a spiral notebook or as fancy as a bound diary you can buy at the store. If you are good at drawing, you can also make sketches of your plants in your diary. If you end up living in the same place for many years, your gardening diary can be a little piece of history for your family. Your family will cherish those memories for a lifetime.

About the author: Originally published at Suite 101. Rachel Paxton is a freelance writer and mom who is the author of What's for Dinner?, an e-cookbook containing more than 250 quick easy dinner ideas. For recipes, tips to organize your home, home decorating, crafts, holiday hints, and more, visit Creative Homemaking at http://www.creativehomemaking.com.

Wednesday, July 25, 2007

Handy Wood Size Chart

Author: Cedar Creek Woodshop

Article: Nominal Size - Refers to the size of a piece of lumber before it is dressed and seasoned. It is used to designate a particular size piece of lumber, such as 2x4, 2x6, etc.

Actual Size - Refers to minimum acceptable size after it has been dressed and seasoned. A nominal 2x4 can have a minimum actual size of 1.5 in. x 3.5 in. When referring to a specific piece of lumber, the nominal size is used.

Size Chart For Framing Lumber</center>

<tr> <td> <center> Nominal Size</center> <td> <center> Actual Size</center>

</table>

<center>Boards</center>

<TR> <TD><CENTER>Nominal Size</center> <TD><CENTER>Actual Size</center>

About the author: None

Tuesday, July 24, 2007

Three Stumbling Blocks to Growing Grapes in the Backyard

Author: Jim Bruce

Article: Are you one of those home gardeners that don't know the three stumbling blocks to successfully growing grapes in your backyard? Don't worry, you're not alone.

I have grown grapes successfully under the worst of conditions since 1975 and I can tell you that most of the problems gardeners encounter are because they don't understand the nature of the beast that they are growing. So let's look at the problems that I see when people, like you, have me come and analyze what problems they are having growing the backyard grapevine.

The first problem I see is that gardeners want to grow some grapes but they are unaware of the variety they are growing and its growth habit. This leads to many problems from the get go. Each variety has to be treated as an individual. The most common varieties in local nurseries are either Concord types or the European vinifera grape. It all depends on whether you live East or West of the Rockies. In the East, Concord types are common. In the West, especially along the Pacific Coast, you will find the vinifera varieties. Each distinct type have differing growth habits and this influences what you will have to do to maintain them.

Concord types have a more drooping habit of growth. Vinifera types are more upward in their growth habit. What does this mean? It means that each type has to be trained differently because they grow differently. Because the Concord types droop, they must be trained high and allowed to droop downward during the growing season. The vinifera types must be trained low and allowed to grow upward. This takes advantage of the natural growth habit and maximizes the sunlight into the leaves to get the best ripening conditions and yield of grapes.

Each variety varies in how vigorous the growth is. This trait determines the distance between vines when planted. Low vigor vines must be planted closer while high vigor vines need more space. You don't want high vigor vines planted close as they will run into each other and be hard to maintain over the years. Conversely, low vigor vines planted farther apart will leave gaps of space that will never be filled and you will lose yield because of this.

Gardeners must also be aware of the ripening habits of the variety. Some varieties ripen early and are grown in areas where the growing season is short. Others need much more time to mature. These are late varieties and will need up to 170 days or more to ripen. Then there are those that are inbetween. You have to select the varieties that are adapted to your growing conditions. Your local nurseryman should be able to help you out there.

One last thing when considering varieties is whether you want to eat them or make wine. Table grapes are to be eaten and wine grapes obviously are to make wine from. The two types are distinct and you can't make wine from most table grapes as they don't get high enough in sugar content and the acids are too low to balance the wine. While wine grapes are small berried and seedy, not suited for eating.

The second big problem I see is that the vines are a tangled mess. Vines need maximum exposure to the sun to be able to ripen the grapes. When they are allowed to grow out of control, the vine leaves begin to shade the vine and this allows for disease and insects to set in (some varieties will need spraying throughout the growing season for disease and insect control), and for less than optimal conditions for ripening the fruit properly. Vines must be pruned properly each year for maximum fruitfulness and health.

Pruning means removing 75-90% of the previous year's growth. This seems drastic but it maintains the health and vigor of the vine. It also means the maximum production of fruit and the best ripening conditions. You can't ignore pruning the vine each spring. It is a must! There are various styles of pruning. These are dependent on the variety and its growth habit. Some varieties are pruned long and some require short ""spur"" pruning.

Long pruned vines are not fruitful in the bottom, (basal buds). The maximum fruitfulness on these vines comes from the middle buds on the canes from last year's growth. Varieties that bear fruit from the bottom, basal buds are spur pruned. Pruning is an art in itself and comes out of a knowledge of how the vine grows. But if not done, the vine will be shaded, get diseased, and overbear, thus weakening the vine. Not pruning will lead to lowered yields and improper ripening. It can also lead to the death of the vine over time. This is especially true in areas with winters. Pruning will instill more winter hardiness because of healthy growing conditions.

Harvesting too early is the last major problem I see from backyard gardeners. People seem to think that as soon as the grapes begin to color that they are ripe. This can be far from the truth. Coloring, known as verasion, occurs weeks before the grapes are actually ripe. Grapes need to attain a good sugar content and acid balance before they can be harvested. Many people harvest their grapes before they have reached this point and are disappointed in the taste or the wine made from these grapes.

Here again, varieties differ in when they are ripe. It is best to use simple qualitative analysis to determine ripeness. The easiest way is to purchase a refractometer to determine the sugar content of the berries. Table grapes can be harvested between 16 and 18% sugar. Wine grapes usually need a sugar content of around 22-24% sugar or more to be harvested and obtain the right alcohol content of the wine.

Growing grapes in the backyard or garden can be a rewarding experience if done correctly. If grown haphazardly, the vines can become overgrown, tangled messes and never ripen properly. Often leading to death of the vine or disappointment at least. You should read as many reference books on the subject as you can before starting out to plant your backyard vineyard. The more you know about the grapes you are planting the better.

A good list of reference books on growing grapes can be found at:

http://www.ristcanyonvineyards.com/books.html

About the author: More information on growing grapes (especially under marginal conditions where grapes are not usually found growing), can be found at Jim's website. Just visit: http://www.ristcanyonvineyards.com

Monday, July 23, 2007

Flower Delivery in Chicago

Author: Eddie Tobey

Article: Ordering flowers in Chicago is no different than ordering flowers in any other city. Some people have preferences of using a locally known florist, while others have no such preference. If you are ordering from a city outside of Chicago, your best bet will probably be to do an Internet search for florists in the area. You can also use national flower companies for Chicago flower delivery.

Floral Essence is one among hundreds of results you may find. This company is located just outside of Chicago and is locally owned. Floral Essence offers Chicago flower delivery and may have discounts available upon your request. They specialize in weddings and are open 7 days a week.

Accents Flowers & Gifts also offers Chicago flower delivery as well as delivery for outlying suburbs. This florist specializes in all occasions and offers a 100% satisfaction guarantee. Finding a company that offers a non-conditional guarantee can be an important factor for a lot of people; you certainly want the quality of products and service to be exceptional.

About the author: <a href=""http://www.i-flowerdelivery.com"">Flower Delivery Info</a> provides information on same day, next day, international, and online flower delivery in various regions Flower Delivery Info is the sister site of <a href=""http://www.e-flowerbulbs.com"">Flower Bulbs Web</a>.

Sunday, July 22, 2007

Greenhouse Calamities - Thoughts from a Novice Gardener

Author: Holly Masters

Article: Greenhouses are a great addition to anyone's garden. They come in all different sizes and you can nestle them right where you want them and with smaller versions of greenhouses you can move them quite easily. That said, as great as they look and of course smell, there should be some type of manual to buy when you are first setting up shop in there. There are many things no one bothers to tell you and if you don't know, you don't ask. Here are five things I learned by plodding along on my own:

1.Never assume that your seeds are not growing and then buy plants instead. I started growing tomato seeds, in the proper seed tray, and within a month nothing had happened. However, I used pretty expensive potting soil and didn't want to waste it so I dumped it on the floor of the greenhouse and turned it in. Then, I planted 6 tomato plants into the ground and had homemade salsa recipes salivating in my head. A month later I had well over 30 tomato plants tumbling over each other. The worst part was that I didn't label the plants and wasn't sure which ones to thin out. I thinned and ended up with the orange pixie variety mostly and they were about the size of a mutant cherry tomato.

2.Never assume that just because your garden is now "indoors" that you won't get an insect infestation. If you are afraid of insects, greenhouse gardening is not much better than being out in nature. After you plant your garden, whether in grow bags, on tables or directly in the ground, look up. There he is…Sammy the Slug peering down on you with a slight smirk on his face. If you are allergic to bee stings, every year at least one gets in your greenhouse and seems to twoddle around in there for what seems like an eternity.

3.Never think you are a pack mule and can water your plants enough by using a gardening can or bucket. You can't! With the heat and the sun shining through the glass the plants need more water than the outside plants. You need a mister, some type of irrigation system, ideally, and at bare minimum a hose. This means you'll require a water source. Think about it when you are putting the greenhouse in place. If you're water source is close to the house you must put the greenhouse within reach. Or, you can be like me… carry about 20 buckets of water out each night and only water ¼ of the plants before you give up. (That said, the cursing involved in the greenhouse creates more carbon dioxide and makes plants grow better).

4.Always read or know the size to which your plants grow. Picture this…novice to gardening and new, proud-owner of a large greenhouse. "Oooh, what can I grow," immediately pops into ones head. She plants dill, (accidentally) 30 tomato plants, eggplant and zucchini among other things. Everyday the novice goes out to water her plants and gets very excited. Until slowly, the greenery is a foot tall, then 2 feet tall then, well, then these plants are insanely out of control. Have you ever seen the size of a zucchini plant's leaves…they are twice the size as your head! Zucchini sucks the life out of the plants planted underneath it and surrounding it. So, as for the garlic cloves planted…she was forced to make salsa sans garlic. On another note, the dill she planted grew to be at least 15 feet tall. A word to the wise, find out how big the stuff gets and plan accordingly.

5.Never buy a <a href=""http://www.greenhousesandgazebos.com/greenhouses.aspx"">gree nhouse</a> if you have no one to look after it while you are on your holidays. Greenhouse plants require a lot of work because generally the soil dry-out quicker. Therefore you must water everyday at least once. Irrigation systems can help with this, but it is still advisable to have someone check it regularly to ensure it works. I went on holidays for 2 weeks and yes I had a friend looking after the glassy greatness, but the following things happened:

•She left the door open one night and some strange animal went on a frenzy hacking up all of the plants, probably eating a couple too. •She watered, but not enough water was used. Therefore, I lost a lot of plants including my favorite. •Leaving the door open also helped some of my plants get infested and it also created havoc with the internal temperatures. •Some of the tomato plants needed to be pinched out and after 2 weeks I had inferior, deformed tomatoes. •Cats. Cat pee in a damp, warm environment smells well, like cat pee.

There are many other kafuffles and calamities associated with this divine garden structure. There are many, many good things too. It is advisable to ask your friends, garden centers and online resources for advice before installing a greenhouse and planting plants inside. Now, that I have had my greenhouse for five years, I have trial and errored myself to plant-death and have a general idea about what is correct. After all, gardening is 90% trial and error and 10% knowledge.

About the author: Holly Masters loves to garden and takes pride in her greenhouse. She has spent much time learning proper <a href=""http://www.greenhousesandgazebos.com/"">greenhouse effect</a> techniques and serves as a contributing writer for http://www.greenhousesandgazebos.com – a site that offers information about everything <a href=""http://www.greenhousesandgazebos.com/greenhouses.aspx"">gree nhouses</a> and gazebos.

Saturday, July 21, 2007

Tips For Building A Song Bird Bird House

Author: Cedar Creek Woodshop

Article: SONGBIRDS are among nature's greatest indicators of a quality environment.

In and around many industrial centers where pollutants are rampant and in heavy agricultural areas where pesticide use is great, the number of songbirds has decreased in recent years.

Not so in most of Texas, where clean air, excellent habitat and people interested in nature are the rule and not the exception. Many Texans are concerned about the inroads being made upon nature by an expanding human race & receive balm to their spirits each spring via the cheerful melodies of songbirds.

You can get a front-row seat in your own back yard to this concert by providing nesting places such as a Bird House for the birds of your choice. This is becoming especially important, because habitat destruction by man is critically reducing songbird nesting areas. A good project this spring would be to build a Bird House or two. This is a great family project for Father & Son/Daughter.

Those who enjoy the companionship of birds will find these types of Bird House inexpensive and fun to build. A well-built Bird House should be durable, rainproof, cool, and readily accessible for cleaning. By using some imagination, the builder can also add an attractive touch to the landscape.

Wood, such as Cedar, Cypress, & Pine are the best building materials. Metals other than aluminum should be avoided, for they become extremely hot when exposed to a sweltering sun. Treated Lumber should also be avoided as it is toxic to some birds. Rough cut slabs with the bark left on make ideal material for a rustic looking Bird House.

Roofs should be constructed with sufficient pitch to shed water. At least 3 inches of overhang should be allowed to protect the entrance of the Bird House from driving rain. Some water may still seep into the Bird House, therefore a few small holes should be drilled in the floor to allow drainage.

Builders should plan for several holes near the top of the box to provide ventilation in hot weather. The Bird House should be constructed preferably with ceramic coated screws for easy disassembly when cleaning and the ceramic will keep the screws from rusting.

Entrance holes should be near the top of the box and proportional to the size of the bird which will use the Bird House. A Bird Houses should have the interior walls roughened or grooved to assist the young in climbing to the opening.

Every Bird House should be placed at locations inaccessible to natural predators. The opening should face away from the prevailing wind, and if possible, the Bird House should be situated in partial sunlight. Subdued color tones are best, except for those placed in direct sunlight where white is needed to reflect the heat.

No Bird House should be placed near another. Some birds insist on territorial rights and conflicts could result in an empty Bird House. At least 1/4 acre should be allowed for most types of Bird House.

Different species of birds need houses constructed to suit their particular needs. The following link <a href=""http://www.cedarcreekwoodshop.com/bird houses.html"">""Bird Houses""</a> will take you back to the variouse type bird houses we offer here at Cedar Creek Woodshop. Browse the site and if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to drop us a line.

About the author: Brought To You Courtesy: <a href=""http://www.cedarcreekwoodshop.com""> Cedar Creek Woodshop</a> Where We Have Been Custom Building Outdoor Patio Furniture Made Of Treated Lumber and designing Bird House and Bird Feeders made of Western Red Cedar For The Last 25 Years.

Friday, July 20, 2007

Treated Lumber FAQ's

Author: Cedar Creek Woodshop

Article: ACQ Pressure-Treated Lumber

Answers to common questions about pressure-treated lumber. ACQ Pressure-Treated Lumber; A Wood Preservation Lumber's greatest enemy is biological attack ,destruction by termites, fungi, marine borers and bacteria. After more than a half century of scientific tests and practical experience with various treating chemicals, there is a variety of weapons that have been formulated to protect wood against insects, rot and decay.

<a href=""#faq1"">What preservatives are used and how long are they effective?</a> <a href=""#faq2""> What ingredients make up ACQ? </a> <a href=""#faq3""> Is special handling required?</a> <a href=""#faq4""> How safe is treated wood? </a> <a href=""#faq5""> Can preserved wood be used indoors?</a> <a href=""#faq6""> Why can treated wood be used for a picnic table and not a countertop?</a> <a href=""#faq7""> Can treated wood be used in gardening? </a> <a href=""#faq8""> Can all tree species be treated? </a> <a href=""#faq10""> What does PCF Treatment mean?</a> <a href=""#faq11""> Any suggestions when building with treated lumber?</a> <a href=""#faq12""> After my project is built, is any special maintenance necessary?</a> <a href=""#faq13""> What else should I know about treated wood?</a> <a href=""#faq14""> I cut the end off of my ACQ treated wood and it looks like it isn't treated in the middle. Do I have a bad piece of treated wood? </a>

<a name=""faq1"" id=""faq1""></a>What preservatives are used and how long are they effective?

For a long time, CCA (Chromated Copper Arsenate) has been used as a reliable wood preservative. CCA treated wood protects against all major forms of destructive attack and is effective for up to 50 years. More recently, preservative manufacturers have made a transition to a newer preservative: ACQ (Alkaline Copper Quaternary.) ACQ is also effective for up to 50 years, reducing demands on forest resources.

<a name=""faq2"" id=""faq2""></a>What ingredients make up ACQ?

ACQ is a waterborne system that is copper-based. The copper and quaternary compounds together provide protection from a broad spectrum of fungi and termites, preventing rot and decay.

<a name=""faq3"" id=""faq3""></a>Is special handling required?

Although termites, fungus and destructive micro-organisms detest treating chemicals, in pressure-treated wood it's clean, emits NO fumes and is non-irritating.

The single most important precaution is DO NOT BURN TREATED WOOD. Burning treated wood releases the chemical bond with wood cells, so dispose of scraps and sawdust with your landfill trash. Wear gloves when handling treated lumber. And always wear safety glasses and a dust mask when sawing or cutting treated lumber just as you would with untreated lumber.

<a name=""faq4"" id=""faq4""></a>How safe is treated wood?

Very safe when used as directed. The preservative injected into lumber reacts with the wood substance to form an insoluble complex. It won't evaporate or vaporize. Treated wood is clean, odorless, non-staining, and safe to work with and handle. Its locked-in protection is non-irritating to children, adults, animals and plants. The minute amounts of preservative released over time due to wear off of the product or water contact have been carefully studied. The conclusion is clear: it is safe for the environment and safe for people and pets.

<a name=""faq5"" id=""faq5""></a>Can preserved wood be used indoors?

Treated wood may be used indoors for any application except cutting boards and countertops.

<a name=""faq6"" id=""faq6""></a>Why can treated wood be used for a picnic table and not a countertop?

Simply because picnic tables are primarily used for serving prepared food while a kitchen countertop is used primarily as a cutting surface for raw food.

<a name=""faq7"" id=""faq7""></a>Can treated wood be used in gardening?

Yes. Treated wood can be used to construct raised vegetable gardens and flowerbeds. Previously, CCA (Chromated Copper Arsenate) had been used as a reliable wood preservative. More recently, treated wood manufacturers have made a transition to a newer preservative: ACQ (Alkaline Copper Quaternary.) Several studies have shown that plants grown in CCA raised beds do not contain higher than normal levels of the preservative chemicals. It is believed also that the same holds true for ACQ raised beds. In addition, the components of ACQ are known to be non-carcinogenic.

<a name=""faq8"" id=""faq8""></a>Can all tree species be treated?

Three species of pine: southern yellow, ponderosa and red are most open to treating. Some softwoods such as spruces, hem/fir, larches and Douglas fir benefit from incising (cutting small slits across the grain) to aid chemical penetration and treatment retention. Most hardwoods are too dense and complex to be treatable.

<a name=""faq10"" id=""faq10""></a>What does PCF Treatment mean?

Treatment levels are measured in pounds of chemical injected per cubic foot (pcf) of wood. Additionally, lumber tags will always state above ground only (.25 retention) or ground contact (.40 retention) so you can be sure you are using the right material for the job. Higher levels of retention are available for special purposes such as extensive moisture/earthen contact - e.g. in foundations, pole barns, fresh & saltwater docks, culverts, etc.

<a name=""faq11"" id=""faq11""></a>Any suggestions when building with treated lumber?

One quite important one: Use hot-dip galvanized (meeting ASTM-A153/A653) or (304 or 316) stainless steel nails or screws, otherwise, your treated wood will last longer than the unprotected fasteners you've used to put it together. Do not use preserved wood in direct contact with aluminum. A poly barrier is recommended for any applications where treated lumber will meet aluminum flashing. Aside from that precaution, you can saw it, sand it, or glue it just like any ordinary wood.

<a name=""faq12"" id=""faq12""></a>After my project is built, is any special maintenance necessary?

Left unfinished, treated wood ages gracefully, eventually softening to an attractive driftwood gray. On flat surfaces such as decks, however, leaves and other debris may collect and create unsightly stains. Even if your lumber has the locked-in protection of factory applied water repellent, you'll want to follow an annual program that includes a semi-transparent stain of a sealant which contains an ultraviolet stabilizer. If you stain your project, a quality penetrating latex or oil base stain is recommended.

<a name=""faq13"" id=""faq13""></a>What else should I know about treated wood?

Decades of research and testing have gone into its development, and we certainly haven't answered every question about it. However, a full line of free literature is available to you through your building materials dealer. Finally, you should be aware of this: lengthening a wood structure';s life through pressure treatment lowers the pressure on our planet's exhaustible mineral and energy resources. 226,000,000 trees are saved every year by pressure treatment. Treated lumber makes one tree last as long as many untreated trees. Use pressure-treated wood with confidence in its everlasting quality and safety. You'll be protecting our environment's major renewable building material.

<a name=""faq14"" id=""faq14""></a>I cut the end off of my ACQ treated wood, and it looks like it isn't treated in the middle. Do I have a bad piece of treated wood?

No. Products treated in strict conformance with AWPA standards will have some wood which appears untreated if the wood is end-cut after treatment. Most commonly, this is heartwood which is naturally decay resistant. This is not an indication that the wood was not properly treated, and you do not need to be concerned. With the exception of some Western species, these end-cuts do not require any special treatment.

Brush-on Preservatives for Field Cuts

According to American Wood-Preservers' Standard M4-02, lumber and timber which are used in above ground applications and are of sapwood species such as southern, red or ponderosa pine, generally do not require treatment to provide a good service life. Other heartwood species, typically found in the Western US, should be field treated when cut or drilled. If you are concerned about wood exposed due to cutting or drilling, you can use a brush-applied preservative. Home centers and lumberyards often carry brush-applied preservative systems based on two different active chemicals: either copper naphthenate or IPBC (3-iodo 2-propynyl butyl carbamate). These systems should be applied, in accordance with their labels, to any surface exposed by damage or field fabrication. Users should carefully read and follow the instructions and precautions listed on the preservative system label when using them.

Thursday, July 19, 2007

Choosing flowers for the organic garden

Author: Tony Robinson

Article: Organic gardening is steadily gaining popularity, and the good news is that virtually every kind of plant and flower can be grown organically. It is important, however, to choose the plants and flowers that are best suited to your own environment. Choosing plants that are suited to the environment in which they grow is one of the best ways to reduce the use of fungicides, pesticides and other chemicals in the garden.

For example, it may be difficult to use organic gardening methods to grow tropical variety of plants and flowers in a cold climate, just as it would be difficult to grow cold climate plants in the tropics. That is why it is best to use the flowers and plants that are best suited for your own environment.

One great way to choose the right plants for an organic garden is to choose native varieties of plants. Choosing native species is a great way to know that the plants you choose will do best where you plant them, without the need to use chemicals.

Using native species of plants does not mean a dull or boring garden. Native species of flowers and plants are available in just about every color of the rainbow, and in a variety of sizes, shapes and textures as well. A beautiful mixture of native plants can produce an organic garden you will be proud to show the world.

After you have chosen the perfect varieties of flowers and plants for your garden, it is important to choose only the healthiest specimens for your garden. That is because choosing unhealthy plants, or those that are infected with disease or infested by insects, could unwittingly introduce these problems into your garden, and make gardening organically that much more difficult.

Choosing the healthiest plants and flowers, on the other hand, will get your organic garden off to the best start, since healthy plants are better able to fight off pests, and to resist bacterial, viral and fungal infections. The healthy plants in your garden will be able to fight off these common ailments without the need for chemicals.

After the plants have been chosen and brought home, they should be transplanted as quickly as possible. It is a good idea to have a good supply of finished compost available when starting an organic garden. Starting a compost bin is a great idea for any organic gardener, since high quality compost often contains nutrients that even the best commercial fertilizers do not. In addition, creating your own compost means less waste going to landfills, and this can produce a healthier environment as well as a healthy garden.

When working a compost mixture in the soil, it is not necessary to go deep. Most plants root only to a depth of about six inches, so working the compost mixture into the first six to eight inches of the soil in the organic flower bed should be sufficient.

When transplanting seedlings from plastic nursery containers, it is important to carefully remove the plant from the container. You should carefully tear away those roots that have grown past the container. Before planting the transplants, be sure that the soil has been adequately prepared with good organic material. Having organic material in the soil not only will provide a great source of nutrition for the young plants, but it will so encourage the growth of beneficial organisms like earthworms. Earthworms can work the soil better than any garden instrument, and they are an integral part of a successful organic garden.

About the author: Tony Robinson is an international author and webmaster. In his busy life he finds time to ""Smell the Roses"". For geat tips, techniques and articles visit http://www.rose-bloom.com

Wednesday, July 18, 2007

Eight Of The Most Popularly Used Softwoods

Author: Cedar Creek Woodshop

Article: Southern Pine

Strongest, heaviest of all softwoods due to year-round growth. Properly seasoned, it will work well without spliting or warping when nailed. Easily pressure treated with preservatives. Holds paints well, accepts stains, weathers naturally to a distinctive dark gray.

Douglas Fir/Larch

Excellent load-bearing capacity coupled with light weight. Noted for its uniformly fine, striaght grian; works well with machine or hand tools. Sapwood is white in color; heartwood is reddish-brown. May be painted, but natural color is strong so staining is unnecessary.

Ponderosa/Sugar Pine

Soft, even-grained texture gives wood a smooth surface. Wood is creamy white to straw with reddish knots. Comparatively free from pitch and resin pockets, it has littly tendency to warp or twist. May be easily painted; responds well to varnish, stain, or lacquer finishing.

Englemann Spruce/Lodgepole Pine

Relatively light in weight and adaptable for most applications where exceptioinal strength is not required. Wood is nearly white in color and takes all paint and stain finishes well. Low shrinkage and swelling properties makes it dimensionally stable. Glued joints hold up well under stress.

Hemlock

Strong and workable, it nails and saws easily without splintering. It is generally free from pitch and is finished with a smooth, unblemished surface. Color ranges from off-white to a reddish-brown heartwood. Stiffness and strength make it suitable for most framing applications.

White Fir

Versatile wood with a light wight and soft texture, it is easily dressed and sanded. It may be painted or stained with few problems. Widely used in light constructions and residential applications for framing and utility work.

White Spruce/White Pine

Straight grianed and uniformly textured for an attractive appearance. Dimensionally stable and resistant to splintering, it is easily worked with hand or machine tools. Relatively free from pitch or resin, and light in color. Adapts to most light-toned finishes.

Western Red Cedar

Completely non-resinous wood, this is one of the most decay resistant species available. It resists rot and decay in most outdoor applications without preservatives. Narrow sapwood is almost pure white; heartwood varies from dark reddish-brown to light yellow. Dimensionally stable, it is easily worked with hand tools. </center>

Tuesday, July 17, 2007

Ceiling Patio Heaters

Author: Ross MacIver

Article: It is unavoidable, Fall is coming and we like to enjoy the outdoors as long as possible.

As Fall is drawing near. Outsite living enthousiasts like us like to extent their season.

And when winter is over and the first signs of spring are there we want to enjoy our patio again

Patio Heaters are a solution, and the type we discuss here are actually my favorite.

Ceiling patio heaters make a good alternative to portable patio heaters. Because they are permanently installed, none of the storage or maintenance problems associated with portable heaters are encountered. Simply turn the switch and the ceiling heater provides enough heat to keep you and your guests comfortable.

Ceiling heaters can be powered by either electricity or gas. If you use natural gas for heating your house, it's a natural extension to install natural gas ceiling heaters on your patio. However, if you don't have a natural gas feed, you can still install electric or propane ceiling heaters.

Many models of ceiling heaters for your patio operate with radiant heat. This efficient heating method heats objects and people without heating the air in between. This increases their deficiency and also means that the heaters are effective even on windy days.

There are many different styles of ceiling heaters for your patio. Some models hang from the ceiling and distribute the heat with a reflecting dome similar to the ones found in portable patio heaters. This type of ceiling heater usually uses propane or natural gas as the fuel source.

Electric ceiling heaters can be mounted directly on the ceiling for the most efficient use of space. They are safe to use indoors, so if you wish to enclose a portion of your patio for the winter season it can be heated with an electric heater.

Despite their ability to heat fairly large spaces, electric ceiling heaters are economical to operate. They are very efficient and are a good alternative when gas cannot be used for heating your patio. Their heat output can be adjusted with a heat regulator.

Another advantage of electric heaters is that they are silent and require no venting. Gas heaters usually hiss when they operate and they usually require a venting system to avoid the buildup of dangerous byproducts. If you have plenty of ventilation, then a venting system is not necessary, but if you use a gas heater in an enclosed or semi-enclosed area you should provide adequate venting.

About the author:

Ross is the writer of <a href=""http://www.patio-furniture-ideas.com/product-pages/Patio_He aters.htm""> Patio Heaters</a> He is one of the authors of <a href=""http://www.patio-furniture-ideas.com"">www.patio-furniture-i deas.com</a>

Monday, July 16, 2007

Top 10 Mistakes When Buying Seafood

Author: Anita Frogel

Article: Top 10 mistakes when buying seafood

The best way to break down the mistakes that are done when buying seafood is to look at each type of seafood and the characteristics it should have when you purchase it. You should buy high quality seafood whether it is fresh or frozen and these tips on what to look for to keep you from making the top 10 mistakes when buying seafood.

When you go to buy fresh whole fish do not buy it if the appearance of the fish is not bright and shiny, scales are not intact and adhere to the skin. If the eyes have turned pink, cloudy and sunken, except with small eyes fish like salmon. Gills should not have any type of slime coating or be green or brown in color. Fish should not have a fishy odor.

When you buy fresh whole fish it should be bright, shiny, and most of the scales should be intact and adhere tightly to the skin. Every fish has markings and colors that will fade and be less pronounced as the fish loses its freshness. The eyes should be bright, clear, and full and sometimes protrude according to the species. The color of the gills fade over time, turning from bright red to pink, grey and then to a green or brown color so the brighter red the more fresh. Fish that is fresh will have practically no odor at all, the fishy smell happens over time.

When buying fresh fish filets and steaks do not purchasing if the fishy odor is strong, there are signs of browning or drying around the edges of the filets, if plastic wrapping is not tight, it if there is plenty of space between the fish and the wrapping, and if there is any liquid in the packaging.

Fresh fish filets and steaks odor should be fresh and mild. The flesh should be moist, firm, elastic and have a fresh cut appearance.

When you buy frozen seafood do not buy if it is not frozen solid, if there is any discoloration or any type of drying which can mean freezer burn, if there is an odor. Do not buy any frozen seafood product that has ice crystals or water stains.

Frozen seafood should only be purchased if it is frozen solid and if there is no discoloration and if there is an odor it should be fresh and mild. The wrapping should be moist and vapor proof and should fit around your seafood closely and not damaged in any form. If you notice water stains or ice crystals, the seafood has thawed and been re-frozen. Always look for an expiration date.

When you are purchasing any seafood product fresher is always better. When you buy frozen talk with the person that is in charge of the seafood and learn how the seafood was frozen. If it was "flash frozen" it may in fact be better than fresh. The time it takes to get quality fresh seafood to your store will give the seafood time to age. Flash frozen is when the seafood is frozen within just a few hours of harvesting to ensure the quality that you can buy.

About the author:

Anita is author of <a href=""http://www.steaks-guide.com/product-pages/seafood-recipes.h tm"">Seafood Recipes</a> at <a href=""http://www.steaks-guide.com"">Steaks-Guide.com</a> We feature a ltl of top ten mistakes. Download our free e-book

Saturday, July 14, 2007

How To Plant Fall Flower Bulbs

Author: Dave Lavinsky

Article: Most people would think of fall as a season when trees are changing colors and dying. For many, the autumn leaves are our last dance with color before the dark, gray winter sets in. It doesn't have to be that way, though. Fall flowers can offer a splash of rebirth and color in a season otherwise known for falling leaves.

Bulbs are living plants and contain their own storage of food. They are quite self-sufficient and will strive to bloom, no matter when or where they are planted. Fall flower bulbs are planted in the spring or summer and flower in the early fall. Some examples are lilacs, colchicums, and saffron crocuses. The colchicums are extremely unusual in that they will bloom without being planted, though they do need soil to develop roots.

When selecting fall flower bulbs, you should look for bulbs that are firm and free of visible defects. If you desire large flowers, buy large bulbs. Small bulbs will produce smaller flowers.

Most fall flower bulbs cannot survive the winter. These have to be dug up each fall and stored until planting time. Bulbs should be stored in a cool, dry place. A dry basement is ideal. If you do not have a basement, a dark, unheated closet or utility room will also work.

For individual planting directions, use your package. Most bulbs grow best in well-drained, loose soil. Standing water or excessively moist soil will cause bulbs to rot. Do not plant bulbs at the bottom of a hill.

Bulbs should be planted six to eight inches in the soil. Cover and pack firmly. After planting, water your bulbs thoroughly. Water them occasionally, and they should bloom in early autumn.

About the author: <a href=""http://www.e-flowerbulbs.com"">Flower Bulbs Info</a> provides detailed information on wholesale, discount, spring, summer, and fall flower bulbs for sale, flower bulb catalog and company information, and advice on planting flower bulbs. Flower Bulbs Info is the sister site of <a href=""http://www.i-flowerdelivery.com"">Flower Delivery Web</a>.

Friday, July 13, 2007

Why You Should Always Have Garden Furniture

Author: Matthew Anthony

Article:

Do you need <a href=http://www.furniture-gardens.co.uk>garden furniture</a> ?You've put a lot of work into your garden, from planning to digging to weeding to all the little tasks that keep it looking beautiful. Sharing your garden with others is the next step, and doing that requires more than pretty rows of plants. You created a garden to enjoy, didn't you? Imagine your garden in use - garden benches and patio furniture to provide places for people to sit and enjoy the fruits of your labor. Choosing garden furniture can be the ultimate expression of your pride in the garden you've grown.

When choosing garden furniture, you should take into account the kind of use that your garden will get. Is your garden meant to be a relaxing haven for just you? A place where you'll read and sip iced tea, away from the bustle of the modern, busy world? In that case, what better piece of garden 'furniture' is there than a classic hammock, slung between trees or on its own stand? And of course, if you put up a garden hammock, you'll need a small garden table close to hand to hold your iced tea and book when you pull your hat down over your eyes to snooze in the sun.

Perhaps you picture dining al fresco in your garden. In that case, you'll be choosing <a href=http://www.furniture-gardens.co.uk/PatioFurniture.html>patio furniture</a> that includes patio or garden table and chairs. From beautiful white-painted French bistro sets to elegant glass and wood dining sets complete with parasol and side tables.

The garden furniture that you choose can set the tone for your outdoor space in the same way that your choice of sofa, chairs and tables defines the style of your living room. A stone garden bench with urns gives a completely different ambience than a pair of rustic, unpainted Adirondack chair with a small table between them. A pair of sun loungers (or chaise lounges) with comfortable cushions invites your guests (and you!) to relax and enjoy the lazy pleasure of the outdoors. Park benches with black cast iron accents can lend a touch of turn-of-the-century Parisian charm to a simple garden, or fit right into a smooth expanse of lawn.

When you're choosing garden furniture, you'll find a wide variety of styles and materials. Molded <a href=http://www.furniture-gardens.co.uk/PlasticGardenFurniture.ht ml>plastic furniture</a> is a popular choice, in colors that harmonize with the natural surroundings. Wood picnic tables with benches are a standard, and classic redwood tables, benches, chairs and loungers are still one of the most chosen types of garden furniture in the world.

Whatever your choice, just remember the reasons that you grew a garden to begin with - the pleasure and beauty of nature. Choose garden furniture that enhances both your garden's beauty and your enjoyment of nature.

About the author: Matthew Anthony has contributed to many gardening websites including <a href=http://www.buy-plants-online.co.uk>plants </a> and <a href=http://www.furniture-gardens.co.uk>garden furniture</a>.

Thursday, July 12, 2007

Garden Fencing

Author: Garry John

Article:

I made my very first garden when I was six in a small corner at the end of my grandmother's garden. It was a small patch, not more than six rows by 10 plants long, but it was MINE, with the flowers I picked and the dirt that I dug. And I knew that it was mine when Nana helped me put up the sections of wire <a href=http://www.fencing-online.co.uk>fencing</a> that set it off from HER garden.

Garden fencing can serve many purposes, but one of the best is to accent and define areas of your garden. Whether you choose a six or twelve inch high border edging, or stand a section of post and rail garden fencing in the center of a sweep of lawn, garden fencing can add a beautiful accent to your landscaping. Take a look at some novel, unusual ways to use garden fencing to make your garden a showplace that will be the envy of the neighborhood.

Wood Garden Fencing

Wood lattice makes attractive garden fencing that affords some privacy while allowing glimpses of the garden. Lattice boards set into a wooden privacy fence add a whole new design dimension to the frontage of your garden. A single width of lattice fencing can provide a screen or windbreak, and support for any climbing vines. Set a lattice panel at the edge of the garden nearest the house and train morning glories to climb it to provide a scenery wall outside a kitchen or bedroom window, or create a simple arbor with two full height lattice panels set six to eight feet apart. Use thick garden twine to create a 'bridge' for vines to climb across and form a living 'roof'.

Border Edging Garden Fencing

<a href= http://www.fencing-online.co.uk/Edging.html >Border edging</a> is another extremely versatile garden fencing option. Think outside the perimeter. You can use wire garden fencing to create smaller accents within a garden plot, or outline one corner or end of a garden with cast iron border edging. Cedar shakes or redwood blocks can be used to create curved borders for slightly raised garden beds, or serve as a backdrop over which to spill indigo lobelia or white alyssum. Create a zigzag border of decorative low picket garden fencing and <a href=http://www.buy-plants-online.co.uk>plants</a> such as zinnias or marigolds in the V-shaped 'teeth' for a unique look.

Patio Wall of Garden Fencing

Garden fencing can be used to create a beautiful background for patio dining. Choose a metal trellis and install it just off the patio edge behind the table and dining set. Twine climbing roses up over it to create an accent that defines the edge of the patio and creates an elegant, tasteful accent to your patio and garden at the same time.

About the author: Garry John has contributed to many home and garden websites including <a href=http://www.fencing-online.co.uk>fencing</a> and <a href=http://www.buy-plants-online.co.uk>buy plants, shrubs and flowers online</a>.

Wednesday, July 11, 2007

Orchid Care - What The Roots Tell Us

Author: Bob Roy

Article: Our final part in orchid care part 4 is about the roots of the plant. This is the heart and soul of the plant. If these are not healthy then the whole plant will show the effects. Loss Of Roots Orchid care part 4 now turns our attention to the roots. Roots disease is difficult to diagnose. The roots actually loss their function and do not supply the plant with the nutrients it needs. some of the causes include: over watering, probably the most common. I know I am at fault for this one with one of my phals. the next most common cause is old potting material. You will see this occur with orchids bought from grocery stores or home goods stores. They are usually packed in soil which is not a good medium for orchids. slugs or snails can cause root disease. This orchid care part 4 says you need to treat with metaldehyde. sometime excessive salt or minerals in your water can cause this as well. If so you need to use distilled water. Occasionally you will see the whole plant be effected by the infamous ""mealy bug"". When this occurs you will note a white cottony mass on the plant or a gray, brown or even black mass underneath the leaves and flower stems. The treatment includes scrubbing the plant with a soft toothbrush dipped in malathion. You should also spray the greenhouse regularly with malathion. Don't forget to take precautions with spraying, no children or animals and use a face mask. We are now at the end of our series of orchid diseases with orchid care part 4.

About the author: This site http://www.orchids-plus-more.com is devoted to these wonderful orchid plants. Did you know they are the second in popularity only to the poinsettia plants? You will find a good deal of information on how easy orchid care really is. They are wonderful to have around your home or for that special gift. Orchid flowers are beautiful and can last for years. Your plant will be appreciated for years and years.

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

Laying Out Your Landscape Part Two

Author: Dean Novosat

Article: Once you have your landscape design on paper, now it's time to transfer it to the actual location where you will be planting your plants. You will need a couple of tools in order to accomplish this. First it's handy to have a long tape measure. For example a 50 foot or 100 foot tape measure is a lot easier to use an 8 foot or 16 foot one. You will be able to easier layout your landscape with a longer tape measure. You might also need some wooden stakes, some string, an old garden hose, and some marker paint.

If your landscape design calls for a regularly repeating pattern, or a very rigid formal grid structure, you'll want to use stakes and string. Start by finding a fixed point on your design and take all your measurements from that one point. Check your measurements frequently as you start laying out your stakes in your yard. Run string or twine from one stake to another to help lay out your design.

If your landscape design is more free-form, with curves and random areas, you'll use an old garden hose. Again, you want to find a fixed reference point from which to start your plan. Using the garden hose, layout your shape. The garden hose will allow for very smooth and gentle arts and arches and curves as you lay out your design.

In both cases, once you have your design transferred to the ground using either stakes and string or garden hose, you'll want to make it permanent by using marker paint. Marker paint is simply spray paint where the nozzle is upside down from a normal can of spray paint. You hold it upside down and spray on the ground. Use the paint to trace over your string lines, or the garden hose.

Now that you have your entire design layed out and painted on the ground it's time to start adding some plants. Remember, a good design uses a layered effect. You will want to place taller plants in the back, and smaller, shorter plants in the front. This gives depth and interest to your landscape design. Take your plant material, in their nursery containers, and begin laying them out in your design. Once you have most of your material in place, take a step back and look at your handiwork. Now walk through your yard, and take a look at how things appear. Now is the time to change things. Once things are planted, it is very difficult to make changes. But now, your plants are still in the containers, you can very easily move things around and change your visual effect.

Preferably, if you have time, leave your temporary landscape in place for a day or two and take a look at it throughout the day. Your design will look different at different times during the day. For example, in the morning, the light is coming from a different angle, than in the evening. So you want to be sure that your landscape design looks good at all times during the day.

In our next article, we'll take a look, and the actual planting process, how to prepare the soil, and how to make sure your pants have a good start at a long healthy life.

Monday, July 09, 2007

Want a garden but not enough room or soil? Then Hydroponics Gardening could be for you.

Author: Jan Money

Article: Hydroponics gardening is a great idea for anyone who wants a garden but doesn't have enough land or soil. Hydroponics gardening is, essentially, a way to cultivate plants using a nutrient solution instead of soil. With hydroponics gardening, it's easy to grow lovely flowers and succulent vegetables virtually anywhere you want! It's true that hydroponics gardening needs much less time than an ordinary garden. In fact, you might spend only five minutes a day maintaining you're hydroponics garden. Once a month the nutrient solution will have to be changed but this will only take a few minutes. Big fruiting vegetables like peppers and tomatoes may not be able to thrive but most other vegetables and flowers will do great.

Tips for the newbie to hydroponics gardening.

While hydroponics gardening can be a little confusing sometimes when starting out, you'll soon get the jest of it. The same as you need gardening supplies for a ordinary garden, you'll need hydroponics supplies for your hydroponics garden. The most popular system is the passive system. This is where the plants sit directly in the nutrient solution. All passive air systems use an aquarium air bubbler otherwise the solution can become deoxygenated and could rot the plants. If you can find the right system for you, hydroponics gardening could produce you with all the flowers and vegetables you could possibly want.

For more information go to: http://www.gardeningsupply.info/

About the author: Jan Money is a freelance writer from Poole, Dorset, England. Jan has been writing gardening articles since 2005.

For all your gardening needs and information: http://www.gardeningsupply.info/

Sunday, July 08, 2007

In Orchid Care The Flower Gives Signs of Disease

Author: Bob Roy

Article: Tale for orchid care the flower. The orchid flower is usually a thing of beauty. When diseases strike it can be tell - r. Like the leaves, the flower can tell you a great deal. Let's take a look at what we will learn Spotting of Flowers A sign of fungal infection or mold is pink or light brown spots on the flower. When you see either, orchid care will suggest to be careful with your other plants as the infection can spread to other plants. Remove the orchid flowers that are affected. The remedy is to get more circulation. Flowers With Punctures Yes, those aphids can get at orchids, too. Also, some insects including Thrips. Orchid care the flower suggests that the remedy is spray the orchid with malathion, but be careful and use a face mask. Flowers With Mottled Colors Here caring for orchids will strongly suggest a second opinion is necessary. The cause could be a color losing virus. Even if this is suspected then isolate the plant. If it is a virus then you need to destroy the plant. Bruised Flowers The causes of bruising are many. It could simply be from mechanical injury. If this is the case the area of damage will not increase or go on to other flowers. But it could also be from slugs or even cockroaches. You may need to investigate and use some dust to bait them. If from cockroaches then diazinon or Sevin on the ground around the plant, on the plant and the pot as well. Caring for orchids also shows that the bruising can be from red aphids. If so use the malathion treatment. Rapid Wilting Of The Flower If you see wilting of the flower, especially the dorsal or upper septal this can be caused by a sudden temperature change or pollination from an ""unknown"" pollinator. (I didn't think orchid flowers were that particular!!) The remedies are those that make sense, moderate the temp changes and remove the affected flowers. Not sure what to do for the unknown attacker. Deformed Flowers Caring for orchids is not complete without the a word about deformed orchids. Common causes include; low humidity or high temp when the buds were developing mechanical or chemical injury during bud formation the bud has acquired an unexplained deformity the potential of a virus infection, (you see many of the flowers have the deformity). Need to isolate the plant. Caring for orchids does involve looking at the ""whole plant"". In orchid care the flower is important.

This article may be reproduced in full with both the Author's name and the web site www.orchids-plus-more.com

Saturday, July 07, 2007

The importance of soil chemistry to the perennial garden

Author: Tony Robinson

Article: The chemistry of the soil is one of the most critical considerations for any gardener, but it can be particularly vital when it comes to gardening with perennials. That is because, whereas annuals provide a fresh start year after year, gardening with perennials means that the plants stay in the ground, and the chemistry of the soil can greatly affect all types of perennials.

It is difficult to overestimate how important proper soil chemistry is, since the soil provides all the nutrients the plants need to grow and thrive.

Most types of perennials are quite hardy, but it is very important to prepare the flower bed properly. A properly prepared bed is the first step to enjoying a healthy garden full of perennials. As with all plants, it is important for all varieties of perennials to have plenty of healthy soil, enough water and the right amount of sunlight.

One of the most common problems with perennials is that of an uneven growth pattern. There are many types of perennials, and they all have different growth rates. It is normal for different types of perennials to grow faster or more slowly, but if identical varieties of perennials show very different growth patterns within different parts of the garden, soil chemistry may be to blame. Many gardeners assume that the same garden plot will have the same chemistry everywhere, but this is not always the case. Soil chemistry can vary even on the same properly, sometimes even within the same garden plot.

If you suspect that soil chemistry may be to blame for uneven growth patterns, it is important to have a thorough soil analysis done to either confirm your suspicions or rule them out. A good testing lab can quickly point out problems like an uneven pH level, insufficient organic materials in the soil, or insufficient nutrients. The analysis will also give you a good baseline to go from as you improve the soil with various additives.

The pH level of the soil is an important consideration for the perennial garden. Most varieties of perennials will grow quite well in soils with a pH of 5.5 to 7.0, but some perennials have different requirements. If you do not know which plants will grow best in your soil, be sure to check with your nursery or garden center.

If the pH level is excessively alkaline or excessively acidic, it can be brought back into balance by adding humus. You can easily make your own humus by using a compost bin to break down organic material, or humus can be purchased directly from a garden center or nursery. If the humus is unsuccessful, limestone can be added to make the soil more alkaline, while adding sulfur will help make it more acidic.

After the baseline soil chemistry is known, it will be easier to monitor the quality of the soil going forward. A bed of perennials should be checked for soil chemistry quality anytime a significant change in the quality or number of blooms is noticed. Keeping on top of the quality of your soil, and making changes as needed, is the best way to keep your perennials blooming season after season.

About the author: Tony Robinson is an international author and webmaster. In his busy life he finds time to ""Smell the Roses"". For geat tips, techniques and articles visit http://www.rose-bloom.com

Friday, July 06, 2007

Bamboo Orchids - a Little Different

Author: Bob Roy

Article: Bamboo Orchid Plant When you think of bamboo you really think of bamboo sticks, don't you? There is an orchid that grows wild in some of the warmer climates like Hawaii and Southeast Asia called the Bamboo Orchid Plant. This is a very pretty orchid plant that easily grows on the hillsides. Imagine having a bamboo orchid plants in your backyard that are growing behind your home. What a pretty site that would be.

These orchids usually grow to 5-6 feet. The stems are actually the pseudobulbs. A new pseudobulb grows each year. One of the variety, Sobralia, can grow well in light shade as well. This genus doesn't grow as tall either. It usually tops out at about 4 feet. Temperature range is quite wide, from a low of 40 degrees to a high of 80+. You don't see the bamboo orchid plant very much in the cooler climates of the Northeast or North Central states. If any they are usually indoor plants or out in the summer only. My wife has one of these that is still quite small, but this summer she is putting it outside just to see what it will do. Bamboo orchid plants need to stay moist. Do not allow them to dry out. Humidity is also very good for them as well. So if indoors you should be sure the humidity is about 50%. If not you can use a humidity tray. Fertilize them about every other week with a weak, diluted solution. Some people can have flowers on their orchids all year round. We haven't had that luck. And the flowers are fragrant. If you can get one of the bamboo orchid plant I am sure that you will be able to see it grow. Imagine, growing a five foot orchid!

Thursday, July 05, 2007

Pruning the Backyard Grapevine

Author: Jim Bruce

Article: Proper pruning of your backyard grapevines is essential to maintain vine size, shape, and yield of the grapes. If you don't prune your vines, they will become unruly, tangled messes. Fruit ripeness will suffer. Overproduction of the vine may lead to premature death. It is also one of the harder things to visualize but one of the easier things to accomplish for the home gardener.

Pruning is performed in the early spring while the vine is still dormant. This is done in February, March, or early April depending upon when the grapevines generally come out of dormancy and bud out.

Pruning the grapevine and training the vine go hand-in-hand. You must decide the way you want to train the vine in order to prune it correctly. Vines that ""droop"" should be trained to a top wire of about 6 feet. Canes are then pruned and trained outward from the middle on each side of the trunk. As the new shoots grow, they droop on each side of this high pruned wire, naturally, taking in account of their habit of growth. Concord, and other native American varieties are typical of those varieties that droop downward naturally.

Varieties that grow upright are trained to a low wire of about 3 feet and allowed to grow upward according to their natural growth habit. These varieties need several wires above the trained canes in order that the upright growing shoots have something to attach to. Often, you will need to tie the growing shoots to these wires to keep the grown going up and to prevent wind damage. European grapes, V. vinifera, and many hybrid varieties (crosses between the European grape and American species) fall into this category.

Whether trained to a high wire or to a low wire, the pruning techniques are the same. The amount of one-year old, fruitful wood to be left after pruning is dependent upon the amount of vegetation produced during the previous growing season. Usually, around 90-95% of last year's growth is pruned off. The wood left is dependent upon the variety, how vigorous last years growth was, whether the variety over produces or under produces, and how old the vine is all enter into how you will prune it.

Grapes bear fruit on one year old wood. Thus when you prune the vine you will be leaving one year old buds to produce the fruit clusters this year. Much of what will be removed is two year wood with attached canes from last year's growth (that won't be needed this year) and excess one year old canes. When pruning you will be trying to balance the growth of the vine based upon how it grew and bore fruit last year.

Excessively vigorous vines that overbore their fruit last year will be pruned with more buds as this will de vigor the growth and balance the vine's growth this year. Low vigor vines will be left with fewer buds to invigorate their growth this year.

The two methods of pruning grapevines are short ""spurs"" and long ""canes"". The idea behind spur and cane pruning is the same. They differ in which of the buds are the most fruitful on the particular variety you are pruning. Varieties where the bottom buds are fruitful are spur pruned. Varieties where the bottom buds aren't fruitful are generally cane pruned.

Spur pruned vines are trained to heads and cordons. The difference here is that head trained vines are pruned to a couple to several spurs close in to the main trunk of the vine. Cordon trained vines have arms extending out from the trunk, on each side, with several spurs generated along the main frame of the arms. Either way of training has spurs of two to three buds each.

Cane pruning involves leaving at least one long cane of one-year old wood on each side of the trunk. The number of buds to leave depends on the variety and how much growth of the vine occurred during the last growing season. Usually, 7-12 buds are left on each cane. But this is relative. And that's where pruning becomes an art. After several years you will gain a ""feel"" of how many buds to leave based upon its performance in the prior growing season.

Besides the cane that is left, a small, two-bud spur is left for next year's cane and spur. That's why this method is often referred to as cane and spur pruning. The spur that is left at pruning time is known as a renewal spur. It gives rise to next year's cane and renewal spur.

Each year the job of pruning will become easier. You will soon begin to understand what is happening as you watch your vine grow during the summer. Your visualization of how the vine is supposed to look each year will grow. This will make the pruning each spring go smoothly.

The tools used to prune your grapevines are hand pruners, loppers, and small handsaws. Select the appropriate pruning tool to remove the wood as cleanly as possible and reduce unnecessary injury to the vine. Hand pruners are used to remove one year old wood. Older wood requires the use of loppers. Sometimes old, unfruitful trunks need to be removed. This is where the handsaw comes in.

Learning the art of grapevine pruning takes time and practice. You can contact your local county Ag Extension agent or Agricultural University for bulletins on grapevine pruning. These grapevine pruning bulletins have drawings and pictures of what you are trying to accomplish and will make your pruning easier. Just make sure that you prune your grapevines every year to maintain their size and shape, and to maximize the fruit production and overall fruit quality.

About the author: Jim Bruce has been growing grapes since the mid-seventies under a range of growing conditions. His Rist Canyon Vineyards is a research project to aid others in growing grapes. More information can be found at http://www.ristcanyonvineyards.com

Wednesday, July 04, 2007

A Look at Flower Bulbs for Sale

Author: Dave Lavinsky

Article: When people decide to grow flowers, they have many choices. They can buy potted flowers and replant them. If they are extremely patient, they can grow flowers from seeds. They can also grow flowers from clippings of other plants. One of the most popular ways of growing flowers, however, is to grow them from flower bulbs. A huge variety of flowers can be grown from bulbs, including lilacs, lilies, daylilies, cannas, tulips, gladiolus, crocuses, daffodils, dahlias, and many more.

Many people choose flower bulbs for their ease of planting and colorful flowers. Growing bulbs is virtually foolproof. Finding flower bulbs for sale is just as easy. You can buy flower bulbs at local nurseries and landscape supply stores. Some home improvement stores like Lowe's or Home Depot offer flower bulbs for sale. Many department stores, such as Wal-Mart, also sell flower bulbs. At certain times of the year, discount stores, such as 99 Cents Only, Dollar Tree, or Dollar General, sell flower bulbs. When buying flower bulbs at discount stores, it is important to make sure you are buying viable bulbs. Flower bulbs should be firm and blemish-free.

It is becoming increasingly popular to buy flower bulbs from online nurseries. Many suppliers now offer flower bulbs for sale online, including Nature Hills Nursery, Schreiner's Gardens, and American Meadows. You can even order bulbs at EBay! Be careful when purchasing bulbs online—since you cannot inspect the bulbs prior to purchase, you should only buy from a reputable nursery. Some of the highest quality bulbs, especially of tulips, come from Holland.

If you are in the market for flower bulbs, there is no shortage of them available. From discount stores to online stores, many companies sell flower bulbs.

Tuesday, July 03, 2007

A Look at Cheap Flower Deliveries

Author: Eddie Tobey

Article: As humans, we are always on the lookout for a deal. Deals on flower delivery are no exception. We use flowers as gifts for so many occasion such as birthdays, anniversaries, deaths, births, graduations and many, many more. We could probably come up with an event or celebration that could constitute giving flowers at least once a month. Instead of paying retail (or more) each time we need to order flowers, we would all like a great deal. Many methods of finding cheap flower delivery exist, you just need to know how to find them.

For instance, many companies will, from time-to-time, offer special promotional offers aimed at getting new customers. They may have a coupon code that can save you, in some cases, up to 40% on your order. If you have a company of preference you can sign up to receive news and information which will often include discounts and promotions.

You may also be able to get cheap flower delivery from your local florist. If you are placing an order during an off-peak time (i.e. outside of a major holiday) you shouldn't be afraid to ask the florist for a discount. This is also true if you are a regular customer and order more than the normal amount of flowers. Your local florist may cut a deal with you (as they often do with corporate clients) and offer you a continuing discount on your subsequent orders.

When ordering flowers you obviously want the best quality for your money. Just because a company offers cheap flower delivery doesn't necessarily mean they will be poor quality, however it might be wise to ask for customer referrals or read their online testimonials. Being sure exactly what you are ordering, including the price, any hidden fees and the quality of the flowers and design are important factors in your satisfaction with your flower giving experience.

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