Building A Garden Fence

Author: Sintilia Miecevole

Article: They are privacy and shelter are two important things in the garden. The latter is often a problem in gardens which are exposed to cold prevailing winds. Both these points are important not only for the gardener himself, but also for the plants in his garden.

Young growth can be severely damaged by cold winds and frequent buffeting will cause a great deal of root disturbance. Although privacy and shelter can be provided by trees and shrubs, fences also have an important part to play.

The choice of fencing must never be undertaken lightly, for serious consideration must be given to its appearance and construction.

Strength is very important. A fence is only as strong as its supports. Most fences are supplied with strong posts, usually 4-6in (10-15cm) square. Sometimes concrete posts are supplied; these are extremely strong. Strength of timber also depends on the prevention of rot, and unless cedar wood is used (except for posts), all timber should be treated with a suitable preservative. Creosote can be used, although it should be allowed to soak into the timber for several weeks before plants are trained against it. Unless this is done, there is the danger of stem and leaf scorch and its use is not generally recommended where plants are to be grown against or near a fence. A safer treatment consists of the use of copper naphthenate preservatives such as the green, horticultural grades of Cuprinol or Solignum.

Types of fencing

The most popular types are purchased as units or panels. Usually they are from 5-6ft (1.5-1.8m) in length with heights varying from about 3-6ft ( 90cm-1.8m). A solid or close boarded fence is, as its name implies, a design which consists of upright or horizontal strips of wood, some 6in (15cm) wide and 1in (2-2.5cm) thick. The strips are nailed to two or more supporting rails at the rear of the panel. These provide complete privacy and wind protection.

Weather board fencing consists of wedge-shaped strips of wood, (1 in 2cm) in thickness at one edge, tapering to 0.5 in (1cm) at the other. Each strip overlaps the next by about 1 in(2cm). The advantage of this design is that it is virtually peep proof.

Trellis fencing is suited as a support for climbing and trailing plants. It is not a strong design but can be used to good effect for covering unsightly walls or as an additional part of a fence design. It usually consists of laths of wood 1 by 3/4in ( 2.5 by 1.5cm) thick, fastened across each other vertically and horizontally to form 6-8in (15-20cm) squares. The laths are attached to a more substantial framing of 1 or 1in (2.5 or 3cm) square timber.

One of the latest advances in fence production is the sale of kits which are so accurately machined and complete that even an unskilled person can erect panels without any trouble. With these kits have come new ideas in design, and many can be made up into contemporary designs. This is especially useful where bold effects are required in the construction of patios. Many ultra-modern properties are being built and this advance in fence appearance will be welcomed by their owners.

Fencing can also be provided in the form of chain link or mesh netting. The best quality is heavily galvanized to withstand the rigors of the weather.

A more recent innovation is the plastic coating of chain link over the galvanized wire. Standard colors of dark green, black, white, yellow and light green can be obtained.

About the author: Sintilia Miecevole, Host of http://www.bestfencebuilding.com, loves to see a great looking fence. Click on http://www.bestfencebuilding.com to see everything from installation, concrete, chain link, discount, contractors and invisible fences to lattice, gates, ornamental, pet, underground and much more. Come and have a look!

Minimizing Runoff and Erosion Along Your Lakeshore, Stream or River Property

Author: Donna Evans

Article: Designing your landscape to care for your shoreline is extremely important not only for protecting the integrity of your property, but also to protect to quality of your neighboring water body. You can control sedimentation and conditions that favor algae growth with proper planning. The appropriate landscaping is also important to improve water quality.

Don't just jump into your landscaping, begin by doing the appropriate planning. This will pay off in big dividends as you will avoid costly mistakes.

1) The first step is to prepare a site plan. Begin by conducting a site inventory on your property. Know where your water flows during heavy rains or ice melt. If your site is bare, know where the prevailing winds are from. Record all of this information on a site map of your property. Also, document existing features such as plantings, septic system, structures and anything else that might affect a site plan.

2) Using this information create your plan of action for your site. This might require attending a home landscape design course, studying books from your library or talking with a local agency such as your Soil & Water Conservation District for suggestions. That failing, it might mean hiring a landscape architect to provide a comprehensive plan.

3) Depending on your circumstances, some of the features which might be useful in preventing runoff and erosion include the following:

Create a ""no mow zone"" along your shoreline at least 40 feet back if possible. You can simply stop mowing and let your buffer return gradually to a more natural state. You can also remove the existing turf and install native plants. The benefits include reduction of runoff and improved habitat for birds and other creatures.

Occasionally the creation of a dry creek bed can be useful to intercept, direct and filter water during heavy rain events. Dry creek beds can be used for drainage away from homes and foundations that have insufficient slopes; they can be used to minimize washing on slopes; and they can be constructed so that they are quite attractive by creating an unusual landscape feature.

Evergreen trees, deciduous overstory trees and shrubs all intercept rain water, thus reducing velocity. Therefore, not all rainwater reaches the ground. If possible, preserve your native trees and shrubs and augment their numbers with additional plantings.

Mulch can be used effectively to minimize erosion. If you have ever looked at a home with no gutters, you have probably noticed the line where runoff from the roof has hit the ground. Installing 2"" to 3"" rock mulch beyond the dripline can help to minimize effects.

Rain gardens are another effective means to minimize runoff and erosion. A rain garden is a landscaped area that replaces an area of your lawn. As the name implies, rain gardens are designed to soak up rainwater, frequently from the roofs of buildings, parking lots and impervious surfaces. It is designed to accept water during a storm allowing it to slowly filter into the ground, rather than rapidly running off into a storm drain, lake or river.

If you are creating patios or entertainment areas, use materials that are not impervious. Flagstone or products such as EcoGrid will allow for the creation of a wonderful patio with gaps for the planting of grass or groundcovers. This allows rainwater and runoff to find small cracks and crevices and filter into the ground.

New home construction or extensive remodeling on a home can disturb the site and lead to damage along the shoreline. The following tips should be considered before beginning the landscaping around a home construction project:

*Always begin by checking local codes and requirements for shoreline development. Be certain you are permitted for your activities prior to construction.

*Install a silt fence along your shoreline to help prevent erosion and siltation from reaching your water body. Do not remove the silt fence until after all work has been completed and all shoreline areas have reached stability in slowing runoff and preventing erosion.

*Always begin your landscape work at your shoreline and work your way out. This way you will never have to cross your work again with equipment.

*If your site has large bare and disturbed areas and is sloped toward your shoreline, consider placing erosion control sediment logs/straw waddles at intervals to slow runoff on a temporary basis. Once your project has been completed they can be removed.

*As you initiate your landscaping on slopes, consider using curlex erosion control blankets to aid in holding seed in place and to assist with reducing runoff and erosion. This will improve seed contact and germination. These are natural materials and will degrade so you do not have to worry about removing them.

*Consider using hydroseeding techniques for seeding in conjunction with curlex blankets to increase germination and seed viability.

*If you are having erosion on your shoreline from water action, consider native plantings. Riprap is rarely the answer. Consider using Shoresox, www.shoresox.com, as an alternative to minimize the effects of water action while your shoreline plants are becoming established. If you establish a lawn, keep it small and never close to the water's edge. Do not apply fertilizer, especially any that contain phosphorus.

*Set your mower blade as high as possible to help prevent runoff. Never rake your grass clippings or leaves into a water body or roadway. Start a home compost site and create a wonderful soil amendment for your garden.

*Before any construction always contact your local ""One Call"" service or a trained specialist for locating all underground utilities.

*Avoid costly mistakes by taking the time to do proper landscape planning.

A small investment in time and if necessary in hiring the expertise of a landscape architect can spare your shoreline while improving the quality of your lake, stream or river.

About the author: Donna Evans is co-owner of Gizmo Creations LLC, a landscape design and website design company. Gizmo Creations has over 20 years of landscape design experience and has designed landscapes throughtout the Midwest and west coast. For additional articles on landscape design and sample plans go to http://www.gizmocreations.com.

Like Fall Flowers - A Tip To Care For Your Winter Garden Pond

Author: Bob Roy

Article: Just like caring for your fall flowers it is just as important to beware of what the needs are of your garden pond. Most garden ponds are built to give additional beauty to the area. Yes, these are becoming more common.

Some of these have fish which adds another dimension They are relatively easy to care for. In the colder climates there are some important tips I have for you. If you are susceptible to the water freezing you need to read on.

The debris that collects in the garden ponds can give off toxic waste including gases. Like fall flowers these toxic chemicals need a place to go. This is into the atmosphere.

If they can't escape they become trapped under the ice and can raise havoc with more bacteria being formed. If you have fish in your garden pond their internal systems will begin to suffer and could fail.

Part of fishes protection against disease is a slime protection over the fish including the gills. Toxins and bacteria break this down. You will notice the brilliant colors become dulled. Protecting Your Garden Pond.

In the late fall you should partially remove debris that collects in the bottom of your pond. Removing this will diminish any toxins that will be given off. And the pond will do better over the winter and any fish will survive it.

Does this remind you of what you need to due with your fall flowers?

Do You Have Fish?

You should consider doing several things. First fish will do well if the pond freezes over providing there is a depth of 1 1/2 to 2 feet deep section. They will survive very well.

It will even be better if there is about 2 foot area that doesn't freeze over. You could use an aquarium oxygenator to help with this. If you have a pump that creates a small fountain it will keep a space ice free.

Don't over-feed your fish. They don't need as much food during the winter and the end of fall. Even early spring there no need to feed as much as during the summer months.

Some Experts Say...

...using some natural salt, that is, salt obtained by drying ocean water is good for your garden pond. It seems to help with the slime coating and also get rid of some of the bacteria and fungus that begin in garden ponds. Check with your garden expert to see about the dose of natural salt. This may be a bit controversial but I would err on the side of doing it.

Although the onset of fall flowers should remind you about also taking care of your garden pond. This doesn't mean there is a great deal of work.

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